I can’t tell you the exact number of TVs I’ve reviewed over the course of my career, but the number is high. And, while I enjoy the mostly laidback nature of the testing process, even the best TVs often arrive in a not-so-friendly state.
There’s a bevy of unnecessary steps, superfluous settings and software updates to navigate before I start testing the picture and streaming shows. My job involves getting the most out of a TV’s performance, but in many cases, I want its performance to reflect my day-to-day viewing preferences, too.
What follows is a checklist of the first five steps I take after unboxing and setting up a TV. They make any TV easier and more enjoyable to use.
1. If necessary, create an account to access smart features
If you’re anything like me, you’re probably appropriately apprehensive about signing up for yet another thing using your personal email address. But nowadays, TV brands make it tough to turn this part down.
Many built-in streaming platforms will require registration in order to access even their most-basic features. This includes the use of built-in apps like Netflix, HBO Max and the rest of the usual suspects.
On newer Samsung smart TVs like the Samsung S95H, for instance, a Samsung account is required in order to access the platform’s streaming apps. Sets built around the Google TV smart platform like the Sony Bravia 9 II require an account in order to take advantage of that TV's app store.
If you’re comfortable signing off on the various user agreements during the set-up process, logging in (or registering a new account) will make it far easier to take full advantage of your TV’s features down the line.
2. Disable the ambient light sensor and energy-saving steps
As a TV tester, my job is to measure a TV’s full potential. As a TV enjoyer, I’m looking for the most cinematic experience possible. As it happens, disabling one setting is critical for both.
Just about every TV you can buy today arrives with an ambient light sensor enabled by default. This sensor automatically adjusts the overall luminance of the picture based on the room's ambient lighting conditions.
I’ve heard from people who prefer to keep this sensor enabled due to their viewing habits, living space and/or electricity use has led them to keep this feature enabled. While I respect this decision, I'd rather not have dynamic picture adjustments in play while I’m watching a show or movie. A TV will rarely look its best while this is enabled, as the light sensor and the software that controls it are often aggressively tuned.
Typically, the light sensor setting itself can be found alongside the TV’s brightness settings. If you can’t find it there, check menus associated with power or energy savings — sometimes attached to a larger suite of eco-friendly performance options.
Depending on the TV’s make and model, the ambient light setting is attached to a dedicated picture mode. TVs arrive with several preset picture modes, but if you're looking for color accuracy, there’s a few modes I recommend above the rest.
3. Switch into a better picture mode
Nothing annoys me more than a shiny, new TV whose picture resembles that of a much-cheaper set. In many cases, this all comes down to the picture mode.
If your TV didn't default to an energy-saving (or Eco) picture mode right out of the box, it likely defaulted to either Standard, Vivid or Dynamic. Of these options, it's best to avoid Vivid mode and Dynamic mode.
Standard is typically the closest of the three to reference accuracy, but I nevertheless avoid it outside of taking a couple of measurements. If you prefer your TV's Standard picture mode, by all means, go ahead and use it. But if you want to tap into your TV’s ability to showcase a finely tuned, accurate picture, choose from the following: Filmmaker, Cinema, Movie or Theater (the latter of which is sometimes labeled as Theater Day or Theater Night on Hisense TVs).
This year, Sony's most-accurate picture mode is called Professional, but on older Sony TVs, my preferred picture mode is called Custom.
4. Disable extraneous picture settings (like motion smoothing and AI features)
Ever wonder why TVs at bars, hotels and waiting rooms sometimes look odd, with rubbery motion that looks almost artificial? This usually isn’t solely because of cheap TV hardware. In all likelihood, several settings are enabled that don’t need to be — including motion smoothing.
Whether I’m testing TVs at work or watching movies and shows at home, I almost never use settings that over-sharpen the picture or smooth-out the motion. And, outside of a curious check-in, I don’t turn over control of the picture settings to a brand’s built-in, AI-based functions.
TV brands are loading their TV software with features that claim to leverage AI in the name of improving the overall experience, but based on my testing, these features are vaguely explained and, when enabled, an annoyance. AI-related settings tend to over-sharpen and over-brighten the picture. They also have a nasty habit of skewing the TV’s colors in undesirable ways.
Motion-smoothing settings can usually be disabled (if you’d like) within their own dedicated submenu. AI features are usually tucked away in a more generalized menu.
5. If necessary, set HDMI inputs to their enhanced mode
Not all TVs require this step, but I’ve been burned by it enough times to make it one of the first things I look for when settling in with a new TV.
If you’re unable to tap into HDR10, Dolby Vision or high-framerate performance on a gaming console, PC or media player, you may need to root around in your TV’s settings for an option to unlock the capabilities of high-bandwidth HDMI inputs.
On Hisense TVs like the Hisense UR9, this option can be found in the Channels & Inputs submenu. In my experience, the enhanced HDMI option on Hisense TVs needs to be manually activated in order to make the most out of connected devices.
On Samsung TVs, this option is tucked away in the External Device Menu. However, unlike the Hisense TVs I’ve tested of late, newer Samsung TVs have enabled Input Signal Plus by default.
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