Buying a TV? Here Are 11 Things You Should Know

Smart TV. LED. OLED. 4K. HDR. The world of TVs is looking better every day, but also more confusing. Today, there's a ridiculously wide array of high-definition (HD) and 4K/Ultra HD sets in stores, from bargain big screens to high-end displays that can cost as much as a car.

The paramount factors for most shoppers will be screen size and price. The widest array of choices, from 30 inches to up to 110 inches, is available in LED (light-emitting diode) LCD models. Prices tend to start at $250 for 32-inch sets (which are great for the bedroom), but for bigger rooms the sweet spot is a 50- or 55-incher for less than $600.

Manufacturers continue to shift to the Ultra HD, or 4K, format, with four times the number of pixels of an HDTV. Prices start at about $750 for a 50-inch set up to $1,800 for a 70-incher. Meanwhile, organic light-emitting diode (OLED) TVs (most of them 4K) offer even richer pictures — for far more money, of course.

Quick Tips

If you’re in a hurry, here are the most important things to consider before you buy a television. We explain each of these points in greater detail in the text below:

  • Don’t buy a TV with less than 1080p resolution (i.e. avoid 720p sets).
  • Don't buy a TV with less than a 120 Hz refresh rate.
  • Consider a 4K TV if you want your TV to be acceptable five years from now.
  • OLED TVs look much better than a typical LED/LCD, but they are very expensive.
  • A wider color gamut is better, but don’t be too concerned about it.
  • Ignore contrast ratio specs: manufacturers fudge the numbers. Trust your own eyes.
  • Look for at least 4 HDMI ports; 4K shoppers should ask about HDCP compatibility.
  • Curved TVs are a fashion statement. They don’t benefit image quality.
  • Most TVs are “smart TVs” these days. Don’t be tricked into thinking this is a big deal.
  • Plan to buy a soundbar. TV speakers are worse nowadays because the screens are thinner.
  • Avoid extended warranties. Your credit card company may already provide purchase protection.

Screen Size: Finding the Sweet Spot

Whether you're looking for a basic or high-performance TV, the biggest factor in your decision will probably be screen size. Consider how many people in your family typically watch at once and where you're going to put your new set. Then pick the largest screen size that will fit comfortably into that space — and your budget. The sweet spot today, considering price, performance and the typical living room, is between 55 and 65 inches.

Screen size also depends on how close you sit to the TV. Basically, if you can see the individual pixels of the screen, you're too close. A good rule of thumb is that you should sit at a distance from the TV that is three times more than the height of the screen for HD and just 1.5 times the screen height for 4K Ultra HD. In other words, you can sit twice as close to a 4K UHD TV.

If you have the opportunity, go to a store (and maybe bring your family) and look at the TVs. Even though 4K content is rare, you may need that higher-resolution technology if you plan to sit close to a very large screen.

Bottom Line: Choose a screen size and resolution appropriate for the distance you will sit from the screen.

Screen Resolution: 4K or HD?

Resolution describes the sharpness of the TV picture, usually in terms of horizontal lines of pixels. A bargain HD set may support only 720p, which means the set displays 720 lines scanned progressively (or in a single pass). Most HDTVs today — and the ones you should consider — support the 1080p HD format, also called Full HD, which has 1,080 lines of resolution. Even in the smallest TV sizes, we recommend avoiding 720p models.

TV manufacturers are rapidly shifting over from HDTVs to Ultra HD sets (also called 4K). These 4K models have four times the number of pixels as current HDTV screens. The biggest benefit of 4K TVs is that small objects on the screen have more detail, including sharper text. Overall, images appear richer and more lifelike than on an HDTV, but the benefits can be subtle.

Ultra HD video looks great, if you can find it — there are no 4K broadcast or cable channels, and there's only a handful of streaming options available so far (most notably, a few programs from Netflix, rentals from Amazon and specialty services such as UltraFlix; Dish Network and DirecTV are rolling out 4K download services). While Ultra HD sets can upscale existing HD content, the results can be mixed and do not look as sharp as original 4K programming.

MORE: Our Favorite Televisions From 32 Inches and Up

For now, 4K TVs (with 2,160 horizontal lines, or 3840 x 2160 pixels) are best if you want to sit closer to your TV: You can get twice as close as compared to an HDTV before you see the grid of pixels. But again, there are very few movies and shows available in the 4K format, so you will almost exclusively be watching upscaled HD content for some time to come.

With those provisos, Ultra HD TV models are supplanting conventional HDTVs. Vizio, for example, has only one HDTV line left in its new 2015 model lineup. And prices are coming down: Vizio's 65-inch P-Series Ultra HD is just $1,800 (See Review).

Bottom Line: Full HD 1080p is still the most common screen resolution today, but 4K is a good idea if you want to futureproof your investment.

Refresh Rate: Faster Is Better

The refresh rate, expressed in Hertz (Hz), describes how many times per second a picture is refreshed on the screen. The standard refresh rate is 60 times per second, or 60 Hz. However, in scenes with rapidly moving objects, a 60 Hz refresh rate can make things look blurry or jittery, particularly on LCD HDTVs. So, to create a more solid picture, manufacturers doubled the refresh rate to 120 Hz (and in some cases up to 240 Hz).

Since there aren't that many per-second images in the original video content, TVs handle the faster refresh rates in different ways. One method is to simply insert black images between the original pictures, tricking the viewer's eyes into seeing a less blurry, more solid picture. Another technique is to generate and insert new images — showing a state of movement in between the two adjacent pictures — to display more realistic-looking motion. However, depending on how the video processing is done, it can make a movie or sitcom look flat, or as if it were a poorly lit, old-time soap opera.

A word of caution: beware of terms like "effective refresh rate," which means the actual frame rate is half of the stated rate (e.g., a "120 Hz effective refresh rate" is actually a 60 Hz refresh rate).

Bottom line: Don't buy a TV with less than a 120 Hz refresh rate.

Color Gamut: Go Wide

This describes the range of colors a TV can display. Since the days of CRTs, the color standard used in the TV business has been a reduced range of visible colors known as NTSC or Rec. 709 — even though for several years modern TVs have been able to produce a wider color range. Vendors often spec their color gamut as a percentage of NTSC, with the best TVs producing more than 100 percent — a gamut similar to what you see in a digital movie theater, with more saturated and realistic shades of deep reds and greens, for example.

HDR, or high dynamic sets, will offer more realistic colors, but it will be a few years before there is much content that takes advantage of the wider gamut.

Bottom Line: A wider color gamut is better, but not a concern until HDR becomes a reality.

Contrast Ratio: Unreliable Numbers

The contrast ratio describes the range of brightness levels a set can display. Better contrast ratios display more subtle shadows and hues, and thus better detail. However, the way manufacturers measure such ratios varies widely. Indeed, the specification has been so thoroughly discredited that if a sales person uses it as a selling point, you should shop somewhere else.

MORE: Best Indoor HDTV Antennas for Cord Cutters

We use the same method for examining contrast ratios in all the TVs we test, so we can say roughly how well they compare to each other. Nevertheless, it's still best to see for yourself how a TV displays shadow detail by finding a movie with dark scenes and seeing how well it reveals detail in the shadows of, say, a Harry Potter movie. Experiment with the TV's brightness, sharpness and other picture settings before making a final judgment.

Bottom line: You can ignore manufacturers' contrast ratio specs, since they are not comparable across brands.

HDMI and Connections: Go for More

It may seem like an afterthought, but pay attention to the number of HDMI inputs a set has. Manufacturers looking to shave costs may offer fewer HDMI plugs on the back. These ports can get used up quickly: Add a sound bar, a Blu-ray player and a game console, and you've used three ports already.

If you have decided to take the plunge and get an Ultra HD/4K set, make sure the set's ports support HDMI 2.0 to accommodate future Ultra HD/4K sources. Many sets on the market have only one port that supports the 4K copy protection scheme known as HDCP 2.2 (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection).

Bottom Line: Look for at least 4 HDMI ports; 4K shoppers should ask about HDCP compatibility.

TV Types and Jargon Explained: LCD, LED-LCD, OLED

Aside from projection sets, there are basically only two types of TVs on the market: LCD and OLED. Unless you have a lot of disposable income, you'll probably be buying an LCD TV.

LED & LCD Sets

The lion's share of televisions today are LED-LCD sets. These HD and Ultra HD sets use light-emitting diodes (LEDs) to illuminate the LCD screen and can be extremely thin. Many of these sets can dynamically light up specific portions of the screen and dim other parts to better represent a mix of light and dark areas in a scene — a feature known as active dimming or local dimming. No-frills LED LCD sets can be had for as little as $200 for a 32-inch screen, while a top-of-the-line 90-inch model can go for $8,000.

Most LCD sets use LEDs on the edge of the screen. The better of these models support active dimming, but it takes some digital sorcery to do this by merely manipulating lights along the edge.

MORE: Our Favorite 4K (Ultra HD) TVs Available Now

Full-array LED sets have light-emitting diodes directly behind the screen, in a grid of "zones" that can be lit up or darkened individually. Such an arrangement makes the backlight more precise and allows a more-detailed picture in terms of contrast. Full-array backlighting was once reserved for top-tier models but with more Ultra HD sets appearing at lower prices it is becoming more common on modestly priced sets.

Pros: Wide array of prices, sizes and features; Some affordable Ultra HD 4K models; Bright screens visible even in a sunny room; Image quality steadily improving with full-array backlighting, HDR and wider color gamut.

Cons: Exhibits imperfections when displaying rapid motion, as in sports; Loses some shadow detail because pixels can't go completely black (even with full-array backlighting); Images fade when viewing from the side (off-axis).


OLED TVs go one better than full-array LED-LCDs with a few dozen lighting zones. In place of a backlight, OLEDs use a layer of organic LEDs, controlled at the pixel level, to achieve absolute black and stunning levels of contrast. (Footage of fireworks against a black sky is a favorite demonstration of OLED technology.)

LG is now the only company actively pursuing OLED technology. All new models have Ultra HD 4K resolution, but a few, cheaper HD models are still around. Prices range from about $2,500 for a 55-inch HDTV to $25,000 for a 77-inch Ultra HD 4K model.

Pros: Best TV picture, bar none; Colors truly pop, deeper black and better contrast and shadow detail than LCD TVs achieve; Retains image quality when viewed from the side.

Cons: Stratospheric prices (such as $9,000 for a 65-inch screen); Uncertain how screens will fare over time, including whether they will retain "ghost" images (also known as burn-in) from displaying a static picture for too long.

Curved Screens: Not Needed

Another innovation intended to attract shoppers' attention is curved screens — mostly used for OLED TVs and 4K LCDs. The idea, say manufacturers, is to make the TV-watching experience more immersive.

However, not only do curved screens have no technical advantage over the other sets, but they actually have some distinct disadvantages. For one, the slightly curved aspect distorts the image and reduces the available side-viewing angles, thus limiting the best view to a few people sitting in a narrow, center sweet spot. LED models also are less likely to produce uniform brightness across the screen. (Most TVs are LED models; almost all other new models are the über-expensive OLEDs.) In addition, some testers, such as Consumer Reports, have reported viewer fatigue caused by the curvature. Conversely, other early owners have reported that after living with a curved screen, they don't notice the difference or detect any distortion.

Curved models are more expensive: A 4K, 65-inch Samsung curved LCD model, for example, costs about $2,800 in stores, versus $2,600 for Samsung's comparable flat model. LG is another supporter of curved screens, but other companies have eschewed them.

Bottom line: Curved TVs are primarily an extra-cost fashion statement, without delivering any appreciable benefit in image quality.

Smart TVs: Most Already Are

An increasing number of sets come with built-in Wi-Fi for connecting Internet-based services like Netflix for streaming videos or to run apps for watching special interest programs, downloading on-demand movies, playing games or even posting to Facebook. The interfaces are generally getting better. Vizio, LG and now Samsung use a handy bar of icons at the bottom of the screen. Roku offers its famously intuitive interface in budget TVs from Hisense, Insignia (Best Buy's brand) and TCL. Google provides its Android TV platform to companies such as Sony. While most smart TVs include the major services, such as Pandora, Hulu and Netflix, check to make sure the TV you buy has the options you want.

In the past, you could have bought a less expensive "dumb" TV and made it smart with a streaming device like the $50 Roku Streaming Stick (see review). But nowadays, it's hard to get a TV that isn't smart, even if you're going for a small bargain model.

Bottom line: Smart capability is becoming a standard feature in TVs, so it's less and less of a factor in your buying decision.

Audio: Get a Soundbar

Even the finest, most expensive HDTVs have an Achilles' heel: poor sound. It's a consequence of the svelte design of flat panels — there's not enough room for large speakers that produce full, rich sound. So, you have three choices: Use headphones (which can make you seem antisocial), buy a surround-sound system (which can be a hassle to set up and produces clutter), or get a soundbar.

Soundbars are popular because, for $300 or less, it can significantly improve the cinematic experience and yet be installed in minutes. Newer models are thin enough to fit under a TV stand without blocking the bottom of the picture. Most can also mount under a wall-hanging TV. Several companies are also introducing sound boxes or stands that can slide under a set.

Bottom Line: Movies and sports benefit from the addition of a soundbar.

Extended Warranties: Save Your Money

One of the biggest revenue generators for big-box electronics stores is the extended warranty. Why? Because they are so rarely needed, especially for a flat-panel LCD set. Most of the components in an HDTV are remarkably resilient; even the LEDs used to light the picture are virtually shockproof. So, if you do get a lemon, it's likely to be apparent immediately or at least within the first 30 days of ownership — a time period usually covered by a regular store return policy. Beyond that, most manufacturers offer a one-year warranty. Credit card companies may offer additional automatic coverage on purchases, so check with your provider.

Bottom Line: Save your money and contact your credit card company to see if it has a price protection policy.

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  • If you're buying a TV today, this advice is OK, but it's still got you spending a lot more than you need to spend. Here's a bit more sensible advice.

    1) You won't really find any TV in 720p that you'd be putting in a living room. Most 720p sets are 32 inches or less, making them bedroom or kitchen TVs. There's nothing wrong with 720p on smaller sets, because your eyes can't tell the difference between 720p and 1080p at those small sizes. A larger 720p set (if you can find one...) really isn't that bad, either. Most cable channels still broadcast in 720p, and 720p is still better for high-motion events like sports.

    2) 120 Hz refresh rate is great and all, but, as I mentioned, most sports today is still broadcast in 720p at 60Hz. So your 1080p TV with a 60-Hz refresh rate will probably be fine. Unless you're a gamer and have a huge TV, you probably won't have any problem with a 1080p set at 60Hz. But 120 Hz is fast becoming standard, so it can't hurt to pick that up.

    3) Don't consider a 4K/UHD TV. AT ALL. There's virtually no content available, and unless you either 1) sit REALLY close, or 2) have a HUGE TV, you won't notice the difference. In order to tell the difference between 1080p and 4K/UHD on a 60 inch TV, you have to sit about 5 feet away or closer from your set. I can guarantee you you're not going to sit that close, and you probably don't have a TV that big anyways. Five years from now you can buy that 4K TV, and in the meantime you can spend a fraction on a 1080p set that will be perfectly adequate for the next few years at least.

    4) OLED is really nice to look at, but you're wasting your money at this point. Unless you really want one and can afford it, it's generally more expensive than it is necessary.

    5) Pay no attention to Color Gamut and Contrast Ratio info. If you don;t know what it is already, you really don't need to know.

    6) 4 HDMI ports usually come on large, expensive sets. Chances are you'll only need 2, maybe 3. Unless you have a lot of game consoles (like I do), 2-3 ports is just fine. Plus, if you run out, you can get great external HDMI switchers for cheap on Amazon. Add an external device for $10, or pay $100 more for that extra port built in? I know which one I'd choose.

    7) Curved TVs are just stupid. They reduce your range of viewing, do absolutely nothing for image quality, and just costs more. Don't waster your money.

    8) Don't waste your money on a "Smart TV". EVER. You end up spending a few hundred extra over non-smart TV when you can add, say, a Roku 3 for $70 externally. Also, because there is no one standard smart TV operating system, most smart TV operating systems are abandoned quickly, meaning you'll get very few apps, little support, and a device that's effectively obsolete in 2 years. Better to replace your cheap streaming stick (like a $35 Chromecast) every couple of years than the whole TV.

    9) You don't need a soundbar. They're a mark-up item, nothing more. Yes, some of the cheapest TVs have terrible speakers. But most average TVs sound perfectly fine on their own. If you have a huge room, just invest in a surround sound system and skip the soundbar entirely.

    10) Never buy the warranties. Ever. You'll never use it.

    In short, most people will be just fine with your standard, run-of-the-mill 1080p 60Hz TV. While your specific needs may dictate whether or not you need things, like a higher refresh rate (gaming), a basic TV will suit your needs. And, you can add things like a Roku or an external HDMI switch for far less than it would cost you to simply buy a smart TV or adding one extra HDMI port.