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There are more than 120 species of coffee plant, but only two dominate the market: arabica and robusta. Spend a few minutes perusing the coffee aisle in your local store, however, and you’ll observe that only one is worn as a badge of pride.
Many brands proudly proclaim their 100% arabica origin. By contrast, robusta is conspicuous by its absence; a term relegated to shadowy small print, if at all.
Let's dive into the differences and explain a little bit about this ongoing debate across the coffee community.
Is arabica inherently better than robusta?
Traditionally, the two were deemed to be yin and yang. Arabica became shorthand for fancy coffee. Robusta for the cheap stuff. Historically, that stuck — of the two species, arabica has always been considered to be the more refined option of the two.
But as the two names became a differentiator of quality, a vicious circle emerged: producers simply put less effort into the cultivation of robusta and so its tastier talents were never truly appreciated. It was mass-produced, quality control was low and the end product was relegated to jars of instant coffee — or blended with arabica beans to cut costs.
And it does taste different: whereas arabica can produce a wide spectrum of wonderfully sweet, floral and complex fruit flavours, robusta tends towards more intense flavours. Think huge, thick, smoky, dark chocolate nuttiness. But with the right soil, careful farming and judicious roasting, be in no doubt: it can be every bit as satisfying as a top-class arabica.
The reality is that growing great quality coffee takes time, care and effort — skimp on any of these factors, and any species of coffee will fail to reach its potential
The reality is that growing great quality coffee takes time, care and effort – skimp on any of these factors, and any species of coffee will fail to reach its potential. And both species can taste terrible: work your way through that supermarket shelf and you’ll find bags of both arabica and robusta beans which, if the tasting notes were honest, would feature descriptors such as “bottom of the ashtray” or “soggy bonfire”.
Why is robusta becoming popular again?
Its name provides a clue. Discovered in the 1800s, it earned its name because of its resilience to both climate and pests. It’s a plant that also thrives at lower altitudes; a complete contrast to the mountain-loving arabica varieties. In today’s shifting climate, that explains why producers in some parts of the world are beginning to shift their crops to hardier robusta plants. They can grow in lower altitude fields that are easier to access, and the crops are less liable to fail when the weather goes bad — or when pests and fungus attack.
Naturally, the bulk of that crop still goes towards mass-produced blends and instant coffee. However, the steady increase in production means that an increasing number of artisanal coffee roasters are beginning to rehabilitate its reputation by producing coffees from the increased supply of high-quality robusta beans. You can identify these by looking for the terms Fine Robusta or Super Fine Robusta. These are the beans that have been selected for professional grading by the producers.
The process is rigorous. A certified grader from the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) inspects the green, unroasted beans for defects such as mould, stones or sour fruit — if it passes that stage, the beans are lightly roasted, brewed and taste-tested to a specific range of scored criteria. Depending on the final tally, the highest scoring beans will be designated as "Fine Robusta" — and the exceptional as "Super Fine Robusta". In short, if you see those terms on a bag, or featured in a roaster’s marketing spiel, you know you’re looking at the good stuff.
How do I find the best quality robusta coffee?
There’s a simple test: if a bag of coffee is inscribed with a roasting date then it’s probably good coffee
Ultimately, the key to buying good coffee is far less about species and much more about where you buy your coffee. In the main, that means abandoning your chain stores entirely. Seek out your local coffee roasters, or take your search online, and find the roasteries that take time and care to select great quality beans and roast them to perfection.
There’s a simple test: if a bag of coffee is inscribed with a roasting date, then it’s probably good coffee — and it means that the roaster cares enough about coffee to tell you exactly how fresh it is. If a packet has nothing more than a best before, then you best beware — as it means the producer doesn’t want to admit how stale it is. In all likelihood, it could be months old and well past its prime.
So don’t make that mistake: start every cup with coffee that’s been grown, graded and roasted with care, and you’re already on the path to a better-tasting cup. And if you like the idea of a big, creamy, chocolatey espresso-style kick, then add a good-quality robusta in your next order — you might be pleasantly surprised.
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