Product Survey: Video Projectors : Mitsubishi HC5500
5. Mitsubishi HC5500
Our Settings
The settings here aim to bring temperature color to around 6500K and give a smooth curve in terms of increase in brightness of gray tones.
The first change is to the gamma. So as to correct a curve quite a bit above our objective, the settings should be changed as follows (go into user mode): high -5 , mid -4 and low -2. To complete these changes, put the contrast to - 1 so as to smooth the curve for the lighter tones.
Next, you need to work on the temperature color so as to reduce the dominant violet. Choose the following settings after selecting user mode (reference, average temp): contrast: R 9, G 0 and B -10. Brightness: R -7, G 4 and B -4. These settings get the color temperature to around 6500K.
Mitsubishi has updated its Full HD fleet with three models, the HC7000 (top end of the range), the HC6500 (middle/top end), and this HC5500. What it offers is best described by the manufacturer: "The HC5500 has the best FULL HD projection performance at the best price".
Handling, Design
We rated this projector a severe 3 stars in this category, but it is justified if you compare it with the best in this area from Sanyo. The zoom, focus and lens-shift are all motorized. The motor has two speeds, rapid and slow, which allows for precision. This was a system already built into the HC6000.
Two negative points to note are the fact that you can’t move the image sideways, and the zoom function is very weak. The differential between maximum and minimum image size is much smaller than on the PLV-Z3000, for example. What does this mean in practice? You have to place the projector along the angle of projection, with little latitude in terms of distance from the projection wall. Energy consumption is also problematic: on stand-by the HC5500 uses 6.7 watts. When turned on, it uses 172.6 watts. Finally, the remote is similar to the previous models: back-lit and with plenty of shortcuts. Connectivity is ample: 2 HDMIs, 1 YUV, 1 VGA, 1 composite.
Projected image
We always start this section with an important reminder. All of the Full HD projectors we test are high quality. Their image quality really is good and will satisfy 95% of the population. There are nevertheless some small differences and these are what we’re going to look at. Remember the importance of getting the settings right on these machines. There are quite a few to remember and we have described them in the sidebar.
The best description of the HC5500 image quality is to say that it is a " general consumer projector". The colors are bright and clear. In comparison with a product such as the Sanyo PLV-Z3000, a great majority of spectators would go for the Mitsubishi. However it doesn’t produce as true and natural an image as the Sanyo. Here is a more detailed analysis.
We measured black levels at 0.13 cd/m². Very deep. A little less so than the HC6500, but an excellent result all the same. When you study the blacks a little more closely you do notice a slight tendency towards violet (this is true for all colors), something you don’t get with the higher end products. The depth in blacks is supported by a dynamic iris. According to the manufacturer, the iris is faster than on the previous generation. Nevertheless, a sudden reduction in brightness, say when you go from a very light scene to a very dark one, does sometimes bring about a drop in overall brightness. This is a result of the too-slow closure of the iris. This is only visible in certain cases, however the practiced eye will notice it.
On a paused image you can see chromatic effects (that you don’t get on the HC6500). They manifest themselves in the form of a green or violet line near white zones, and are probably linked to the fact that the LCD emissions are out of sync. They appear so as to better cover spaces between LCD cells. Don’t worry, they are not visible when in movement and from a distance of 3 meters. There is also a saturation of whites in very light zones. Here, Sony does better with its VPL-HW10 and manages to differentiate between the tones, where the Mitsubishi only displays a uniform white. This is because of a problem with the iris. When you deactivate it, the problem is resolved at at the expense of the black levels, which fall. It is a trade-off.
Video noise isn't as well-controlled as on the Sanyo. Upscaling from an SD source is good, however we did prefer the results on the Sony VPL-HW10. Fewer parasite pixels and aliasing on diagonal lines. You also notice increased image precision (more marked and defined traits) on the Mitsubishis (both the HC5500 and the HC6500) in comparison to the Sony.
Should you spend more?
If you are truly picky when it comes to image quality, then yes. Otherwise, no. After applying the settings in our sidebar, the image quality is really at an excellent level. You can get straighter lines with other models. You can also reduce video noise. But pay $1,000 extra for that? Unless you are a true afficionado, we recommend you stop here.
| Mitsubishi HC5500 | |
|---|---|
| Pluses | Minuses |
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If you are new to the world of home projection, starting out with the HC5500 is a very good move. A dynamic image, deep blacks, sharp colors. A very attractive general consumer image. If you are a little more expert, look up the range.
- HC5500 LCD Projector...




"...For example, when these mirrors rapidly reflect red and yellow, you will see green..."
This mirrors reflect white light. The color wheel is the device which lets the right color component pass in synch with the DMD.
For example: the DMD is reflecting the blue channel of the image but this is white light coming from the lamp, so the color wheel is letting only the blue part of the spectrum. The same with red and blue.
There are also DLP projectors that use three dmd's with three colored light sources( red green and blue) so no need for a color wheel. A frame being displayed with all color information on the screen at once. This means you can obtain 3 times the frame rate at a broader color depth with no rainbow effect.
Besides being technically wrong as pointed out by bboysil, don't you mean red and green will create yellow? Red and yellow (which isn't a primary color of additive light) makes orange!
http:\\diyprojectorkits.com
I am a member there, and am going to build my own 1080P projector this summer. 40 *THOUSAND* hours of life per bulb. Commercial projectors are for amateurs...
COMPARISON CHARTS PLEASE
Either use standard Or metric but don't mix them both. Inches and ounces in one place, meters in another. Seeing how this is tomsguide/us I would assume standard US measurements, but at least be consistant. Even better, translate the articles or make a simple conversion program.
Wow, this article is a mess. Seems like it was written by half a dozen people and connected in random order. No format consistancy between products. Some mention power consumpsion, some price, some show screen shots, size, weight, etc.
COMPARISON CHARTS PLEASE
I'm guessing that's why no charts, no product has the same info.
OK, I swear this is my last comment:
I couldn't figure out why they were using a condom for size comparison. Turns out it is a Euro coin! How about using something recognizable by the majority it of people reading this article.
Why is this site generating such poor quality articles these days (look at the equally useless webcam article)? What is this Digital Versus? Some copy and paste bot?
I read the Panasonic review then gave up. Doesn't anyone bother proof-reading:
"The fans this shape can relax"
"I ended up forcing the it manually"
"The image below" - it's not below
"When uscaling"
And how useless is the zoom option to see the two(!) Star Ratings?
LOL!@! At first I thought that coin was a condom!!
A very wordy review. This needs metrics to compare each model if this is going to prove of any use.
Nic topic coverage. Bit weird as I have just persuaded the wife that our front room would make a great home entertainment room.
First purchase required.... Projector. Think I'll pop down to my local Sony shop and see for myself just what they are like. The reviews here have done nothing more than give me a starting point. Nothing that allows me to proactively compare the products.
I have the same prob, Firmware update doesn't help me use AC charger while projecting..HELP PLS!!
now my aiptek pocket cinema is dead.i've upgraded the firmware, now it won't turn on...pls help...