I’m pretty much the opposite of what one would call a foodie, so my knowledge of Anthony Bourdain comes entirely from the renowned chef’s pop-culture reputation, rather than any regular viewing of his multiple culinary and travel documentary series or reading any of his books. That turns out to be a perfectly solid perspective for viewing “Tony,” director and co-writer Matt Johnson’s biopic that follows the young Bourdain during a summer he spent working at a restaurant in Provincetown, Massachusetts.
- Rating: 3/5 Stars
- Verdict: Although it may not encompass the entirety of renowned chef and documentarian Anthony Bourdain’s life and career, “Tony” is entertaining slice-of-life drama about an arrogant young man finding his purpose over the course of a meaningful summer in 1975 Provincetown.
- Where to watch: Opens in select theaters Aug. 7 and theaters nationwide Aug. 21
Aside from its closing title cards that give a brief summary of some of Bourdain’s major career achievements, “Tony” has essentially nothing to do with the Bourdain who was a famous face on TV for nearly two decades. Instead, it’s a small-scale coming-of-age drama set in 1975, which just happens to have a future celebrity as its main character.
In some ways, that makes it less distinctive, since it wouldn’t take much to change this into an entirely fictional story. But it also avoids many of the pitfalls of a typical biopic, honing in on a specific period rather than trying to encompass Bourdain’s entire life.
‘Tony’ tells an entertaining slice-of-life story
A student at Vassar College in upstate New York, Tony (Dominic Sessa) is insistent that no one call him Anthony, and in general he lives up to the quote on the movie’s opening title card, from Bourdain’s 2000 memoir “Kitchen Confidential”: “I was — to be frank — a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout, and badly in need of a good ass-kicking.” That makes him a bit tough to root for, even as he gradually fumbles toward some simple but important life lessons, courtesy of a handful of key figures.
First, he acts like a complete jerk to many of those same people. After being rejected for a Vassar writing fellowship that he was arrogantly certain he would receive, he skulks off in the middle of the night, stealing money from his parents and not telling them where he’s headed. Determined to connect with his high school crush and fellow Vassar student Nancy (Emilia Jones), he travels to Provincetown, where she’s told him she’s going to be spending the summer. He promptly gets drunk, harasses a waitress, and is thrown out of oyster bar The Flagship.
With no money left, he begs The Flagship’s unnamed owner and chef (Antonio Banderas) to let him stay on the hammock where he slept off his drunken bender, and Chef (as everyone calls him) agrees to hire Tony as a dishwasher in exchange for a place to spend the summer. Tony is not exactly a stellar employee, and it doesn’t help that he immediately befriends fellow kitchen worker Sal (Leo Woodall), a violent, womanizing drug addict who is the worst possible role model for Tony.
‘Tony’ has simple, low-key charm
Tony spends the summer screwing up both personally and professionally, as he pursues Nancy with various lies about his supposed writing career and barely avoids burning down The Flagship. But he also finds a patient mentor in Chef, who sees something in Tony that he doesn’t see in himself. Their relationship is sweeter and more fully developed than the romance between Tony and Nancy, even though the real-life Nancy ended up as Tony’s wife for 20 years. Jones does what she can with a thinly written character, but the focus remains on the boys’ club in the kitchen.
Johnson also captures the freewheeling vibe of 1970s Provincetown, a counterculture haven where screw-ups like Tony and his co-workers can find steady work even if they’re snorting cocaine and puking from hangovers while attempting to prepare food for customers. Tony himself is often a frustrating person to spend time with, especially when he lets his self-regard get in the way of genuine human connections, but Sessa also makes him into a charmer who can always convince people to give him another chance.
He’s far from the thoughtful, engaging explorer of Bourdain’s TV work from decades later. But there’s enough of a common thread for Bourdain devotees to see the beginnings of the more mature person who would eventually emerge. While Johnson took a snarky, comedic approach to his 2023 corporate biopic “BlackBerry,” “Tony” is earnest and sensitive, in keeping with Bourdain’s own projects.
Verdict: ‘Tony’ is a slight but effective biopic
Bourdain’s real life was even messier than the chaotic summer depicted in “Tony,” and Johnson and his co-writers can’t resist the Hollywood temptation for a rousing finale, as Tony rallies his Flagship co-workers for a benefit to honor his patron. Even in its cheesiest moments, though, “Tony” remains grounded, thanks to its earthy performances and warm, sun-dappled visual style.
I’m not sure I know much more about Anthony Bourdain — or about food — after watching “Tony,” but I still enjoyed hanging out for one eventful summer in Provincetown.
“Tony” opens Aug. 7 in select theaters and Aug. 21 in theaters nationwide
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