Source: Tom's Guide US | Keywords: notebook, extended, battery | Themes: Laptops and Notebooks
3. Run Time
A battery's run time depends on three main factors: your usage habits, the notebook's components, and the battery itself.
Light activities such as Web surfing and office apps will give you much longer run time than multimedia tasks will, such as movie playback and 3D gaming. Indeed, the differences in run times can be staggering when using my own laptop, the HP dv4, with its extended 12-cell battery. I can get five solid hours of online surfing, for example, but that battery time gets cut down to just over four hours for movie watching and only two and a half hours of gaming. If you tend to take breaks frequently while you work, you may find that your battery lasts longer than if you work constantly, since the notebook will run on idle more often. Of course, you should check your Windows power settings and make sure to have “max battery” enabled to get the most from your battery.
When looking at hardware, higher-end components are not always battery friendly. Take Intel’s mobile Core 2 Duo CPU. Intel’s T-Series processors have a 35 W thermal design power (TDP) rating, but its similar speed P-Series processors run at just 25 W. With 10 W less power, there is more juice left in your battery. In a similar fashion, integrated graphics will consume less power than dedicated graphics processors will because of the relaxed feature set. If your display is an LED backlit screen, it will use less power than the same display that is non-LED. Alternatively, opting for a more expensive, higher-end solid-state drive (SSD) drive that uses 1.5 W will also boost your battery times compared to regular mechanical drives that typically run at 2.5 W.
If you intend to wring every bit of power out of your notebook’s battery, you should thus take these hardware issues into consideration when configuring your notebook.
Quoted battery run times are also almost never what you end up getting in real-life conditions. That’s because manufacturers will run a common synthetic benchmark, such as MobileMark2007, in order to establish measurable comparisons between different batteries and different notebooks. That’s good when trying to compare a Sony notebook to a HP, but the catch is that a manufacturer’s testers will often perform these benchmarks on a model that has the minimum hardware that the OEM sells, while using its biggest battery under predefined settings, and quote a simulated maximum battery time. So don’t be surprised if that eight-hour rated battery only gives you six to seven hours in the real world.
Finally, while it is beyond the scope of this article, the practice of “undervolting” can also yield significant increases in battery times. Undervolting is the technique of lowering the CPU operating voltage at a given clock multiplier in order to consume less power. Results have shown that undervolting offers up to 25% longer performance, which translates into a full hour or more of batter life in some cases. And unlike overclocking, undervolting is nearly foolproof as the worst thing that will happen is that you get the infamous Blue Screen of Death (BSOD). Two great side benefits to this trick are that you will also get an incredibly quieter and cooler running notebook. If you’re interested in undervolting techniques, let us know in the comments section of this article.
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There aren't any options in the bios so is there software to undervolt my notebook's CPU?
They rate Amp-hours per cell. I.e. 2.2amp hours is only for one cell of a multi-cell battery? Confusing.
w4ffles: I use RMClock myself (there should be a free version online). It lets you set profiles so you can specify the maximum speed and voltage of your CPU (and various other levels depending on CPu usage). I use it to underclock and undervolt my desktop when not in use, but to crank the CPU up to max when doing heavy loads (which the application detects automatically and adjusts on the fly).
It can take a learning curve to use, but even the free version is very powerful.
Just something to point out, DDR3 is a power saving component in notebooks right now since it runs at a lower Voltage than DDR2. The difference isn't particularly significant, but DDR3 will give you maybe 5-10% more runtime.
Most people think of DDR3 as a perfomance increase, but with the limited frequencies of current soDIMMs, DDR3 for laptops is only on par with current DDR2 notebook RAM, if that.
My Compaq V5000 is still going strong after 5 years. I chose to go with Sempron and the matte screen (I planned to work outside and the glossy was brighter by default). Also got the 12 cell. I play Starcraft, Diablo 2 so the ati 200M worked perfectly, and then work related stuff (lasts about 6 hours watching downloaded media).
Great article, these were the things I considered when choosing components for my laptop, as I never knew when I would be close to an outlet.
andetghddn -
P.S. The v5000 laptop also cost about $450 direct from hp.
They rate Amp-hours per cell. I.e. 2.2amp hours is only for one cell of a multi-cell battery? Confusing.w4ffles: I use RMClock myself (there should be a free version online). It lets you set profiles so you can specify the maximum speed and voltage of your CPU (and various other levels depending on CPu usage). I use it to underclock and undervolt my desktop when not in use, but to crank the CPU up to max when doing heavy loads (which the application detects automatically and adjusts on the fly).It can take a learning curve to use, but even the free version is very powerful.
RMClock is the defacto software in use on notebooks at the moment, and what I would recommend. While I don't want to get into a full-blown guide here, it is also important to stress the CPU while testing your voltages before you really play with RMClock. It does take some learning, but anyone with the skills can do it.
Cool - now I can get a 30% off coupon at HP. Nice article!
I always enjoy having a laptop battery that doesn't start a fire.
I have a busniess notebook for work and aside from the programs I use everyday, don't know that much about computers. The biggest thing for me with buying an extended battery was the price. HP wanted a boat load for it, which is really a rip off. I checked different site for about 2 1/2 days and ended up getting one from NoteBatt.com for like half or something close to it. Couple of other sites were the same way. It's just nuts to think that other companies are selling pretty much the same battery for much less. Oh, and it has been completely bug free since I got it, something HP told me would not happen.
Even with 30% off coupon I think HP batteries are very expensive. I also was scared about fire when I started looking for a new battery for my HP and I found a very high quality batteries at www.newpcbattery.com. I chose that site because battery manufacturer located in USA, not in China.