If, like me, your lawn is completely covered with fallen leaves, a leaf blower is a must-have garden tool. Not only can they quickly make cleanup a breeze (no pun intended), but they can also save you the back-breaking task of raking up piles of leaves.

So when your reliable leaf blower keeps cutting out unexpectedly right in the middle of a task, this can be frustrating. Rest assured, you are not the only one dealing with this frequent issue.

In fact, all it takes is a few quick checks and troubleshooting steps that will keep your leaf blower running reliably and ensure your lawn stays free of leaves all season. Here's what you need to do when your leaf blower suddenly stops running.

Check the filter and give it a good clean

The first thing is to check for clogs, which will only take minutes. Clogging from trapped debris is a common reason both gas- and electric-powered leaf blowers cut out, as it restricts essential airflow.

For gas leaf blowers, simply remove the filter cover and give it a good clean before taking out the filter itself. To clean it, clear away any loose dirt or debris, then use compressed air to blast out any stubborn blockages.

For electric leaf blowers, simply remove debris in the air intake vent and give it a good wipe-down. Once you’ve done that, this should resolve the annoying shut-off issues you have.

Change old gasoline

If you have a gas-powered leaf blower, your gasoline might be the culprit of blockages that can affect the engine. This is usually the case if you haven’t used your blower for a long time, and the bad gasoline is no longer fit for use.

Fortunately, this is an easy fix — simply drain the old gasoline in a suitable container, install a new fuel filter before refilling it with fresh gas and oil mix. If the problem continues, inspect the carburetor for build-up and spray it clean with a specialized carburetor cleaner. It’s also worth checking the spark arrestor and fuel cap to remove any debris or stubborn grime.

Another top tip is to test the fuel cap to check if it needs replacing. To determine whether the fuel cap requires this, try loosening it slightly and operating the blower. If the machine runs properly while loose but stalls again once the cap is tightened back down, then a new cap is needed.

Check for a damaged battery

If you have a battery-powered blower, you may be dealing with a damaged battery. Usually, a faulty battery struggles to keep its proper charge, resulting in your leaf blower constantly cutting out.

Simply swap it out with a spare or new battery to see if this makes a difference to your performance.

Additionally, store your batteries properly in a dry, moisture-free location away from extreme temperatures.

For more top tips, check out 5 things you need to know before buying a leaf blower.

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• I tried the 'tarp burrito' method to clear leaves from my yard — and it's a game changer
• What to do if your neighbor's tree is dropping leaves in your yard — according to an expert

Few garden tasks feel more frustrating than trying to clear fallen pine needles from a gravel path or driveway. Standard metal rakes dig too deeply into loose chippings, scattering stones into the lawn and leaving you with heavy piles of mixed rock and debris to separate by hand.

Leaving them in place is not an option either, as damp needles quickly break down into acidic sludge that encourages weeds and turns paths slippery underfoot. The trick to lifting them quickly comes down to choosing the right tool and working with the natural weight difference between light needles and heavy stone.

Why you shouldn't leave fallen pine needles on gravel

It is tempting to leave a light scattering of needles where they land, but ignoring them quickly turns a low-maintenance gravel path into an ongoing headache.

As pine needles decompose, they break down into a fine, nutrient-rich organic sediment that sifts down into the voids between your stones, creating an ideal seedbed for persistent weeds to take root.

Left to sit through wet weather, that matted needle layer traps moisture, speeds up moss and algae growth, and transforms crisp aggregate into a slick slip hazard underfoot, all while leaching dark tannins that can permanently stain decorative light-coloured stone.

Here are three simple ways to lift fallen needles cleanly away while leaving every pebble where it belongs.

The easy way to lift pine needles from gravel

Switch to a flexible spring tine rake

Rigid garden rakes with solid steel teeth are designed to dig into soil, making them the absolute worst choice for loose aggregate.

Swapping to a lightweight, flexible spring-wire leaf rake or an adjustable metal fan rake gives you far better control over surface contact.

Hold the rake handle at a low, shallow angle and use light, skimming sweeps across the top layer rather than pulling downwards into the stones. The flexible tines gently flex over individual pebbles, gathering the tangled needle carpet on top while leaving the heavier rocks undisturbed beneath.

Float debris off with a leaf blower

If manual raking still catches too many small chippings, a leaf blower offers a far faster and cleaner shortcut when used correctly. The secret lies in keeping the airflow moving horizontally rather than pointing the nozzle straight down into the gravel bed.

Stand several paces back, tilt the blower tip so it skims just above the stones, and use steady side-to-side sweeping motions on a low or medium throttle.

The high-velocity air easily catches the large surface area of dry needles, rolling them into manageable windrows along the edge of the path without kicking up a single stone.

Vacuum up stragglers on dry days

For sunken paths or borders enclosed by stone edging where blowing debris simply bounces off walls, a garden vacuum or shop vac clears the remaining scatter in minutes.

Wait for a dry afternoon when the needles are completely crisp and non-sticky, as damp needles clump tightly to stone surfaces.

Hover the wide intake nozzle an inch or two above the path so suction pulls up the lightweight needles while leaving the dense gravel anchored to the ground, giving your decorative stones a crisp, immaculate finish with zero back strain.

What about other leaves?

If you are dealing with standard fall leaves instead of pine needles, the exact same dry-weather rules apply — a low-speed blower, a soft broom, or a shop vac will lift them right off the stones. The only real catch is when those leaves get wet, turning into a heavy, mushy mat that glues itself to the gravel.

When that happens, put the leaf blower away and switch to lifting instead. If the forecast looks sunny, wait a couple of days for the sludge to dry into a brittle crust that you can easily sweep or blow away.

If you need the yard clean right away, slide a flat-edged plastic snow shovel along the top layer of gravel to scoop up the thick, wet clumps without digging into the stones.

For slimy bits wedged deep between the pebbles, remove the paper filter from a wet/dry vac, if you have one, and hover the nozzle just above the rocks to suck up the mess while leaving the heavier gravel behind. Skip standard garden leaf vacs here, as wet clumps will quickly clog their impellers.

If you don't own a wet vac, simply give the area a light spray with a garden hose to break the suction between the wet leaves and the stones, then gently pull the loosened clumps into piles with a flexible plastic rake.

More from Tom's Guide

• 3 ways to keep your neighbor's grass on their side of the fence
• When to clean your gutters in fall (and why doing it too early backfires)
• Don't leave gas in your lawnmower this fall — do this one thing before temperatures drop

With cold temperatures and frosty soil, winter is hard enough for your existing garden let alone trying to plant any new seeds. And, if like me, you're lacking indoor space and don't have an external greenhouse then this hack might be the game changer you're looking for.

I've been researching about setting up my own mini greenhouses while I wait to plant these 7 winter-hardy vegetables in February. While there were several ideas on what to buy, I stumbled across a TikTok that said I could make them pretty easily yourself – and all I'd need is a milk jug. So, I thought I'd give it a try. Here's what happened.

How does it work?

Sharing DIY home and garden tips on TikTok, @sandra.maria.home has almost 65k followers watching her videos, but it was what she had to say about milk jugs that really caught my attention.

In one video, she explains: "This is a milk jug greenhouse method I have perfected over the years. A mini greenhouse lets you start seeds outdoors way earlier without grow lights or without bathing seedlings inside. For me, it's the start of the growing season."

And all you need is a milk jug (or several, depending on how many seed starters you're planning), a pair of scissors, a kitchen knife and some duct tape. And, of course, some soil and your seeds.

Then, follow these five simple steps:

• Wash your jugs out to avoid any mold and throw away the lids
• Cut the jug in half using a knife or scissors
• Use the knife/scissors to make some drainage holes in the bottom
• Fill the bottom half with appropriate soil and plant your seeds
• Seal with duct tape

Sandra has some advise from her years of mini greenhouse making when it comes to the soil you choose: "Don't use anything with fertilizer, it's too harsh for the seedlings and will kill them."

And, if you're planning on planting multiple seeds, use a pen or wax pencil to number the jugs so you don't lose track of which ones are which. Once spring comes around, you can gently release the duct tape and let the plants acclimatize for planting in your yard.

Here's what happened when I tried it

While Sandra says she picks her jugs up at her local coffee shop, which is a seriously clever idea, I live in a busy household where we happen to drink a lot of milk. Or, at least enough for me to collect a few jugs myself.

So, milk jugs in hand, I followed her steps using scissors to cut and make drainage holes as I found this a lot easier. I then lined them up in my yard in a place I knew I could keep an eye on them without having to venture too far.

Another piece of advice that I think is worth mentioning from Sandra's video is that she says to densely pack the seeds in since this small jug of soil won't be their forever home. That means there will be more to move over once spring rolls around and they can grow into their new environment.

Sure, I need to wait and see how effective my mini greenhouses actually are when spring comes around, but I'm happy that I didn't waste any money and hardly any time doing it. So, if some seeds are successful and others aren't, I'll still be happy to try again.

What I loved about this gardening hack is that making the mini greenhouses really took me no time at all – and it also didn't cost me anything. Considering how easy and affordable this hack is, I'll definitely be recommending it to friends. I just might wait until next year, so I can show them proof that it really does work. Not that I don't trust Sandra!

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• What actually happens if you leave fallen leaves on your lawn — and why you’ll regret it
• I've lost too many plants to cold weather — garden experts share 3 tips to help them survive the winter
• Winter is deadly for helpful insects but your yard can save them — here's how

Nothing brightens a home quite like a vibrant bunch of hydrangeas. With their colorful blooms and distinctive cone-shaped clusters, it can be disappointing to watch them droop and lose their hue.

But what does it mean when those beautiful flowers start turning green?

I called on a gardening expert to reveal the reasons why your hydrangeas are fading to green — and top tips to help your blooms last longer throughout the season.

Why do hydrangea flowers turn green?

So if hydrangeas are known for their vibrant blooms, what's causing them to (surprisingly) turn green?

"As many hydrangea blooms mature, they naturally develop green tones,” states Paul Parker, plants and bulbs specialist at J. Parker’s. “This is part of the normal ageing process and often adds interest late in the season, particularly in autumn arrangements.

“Green tones are a natural stage in the life cycle of many hydrangea blooms, although the timing and extent of this colour change can vary depending on the variety and growing conditions.”

Parker also notes that while hydrangeas are generally reliable shrubs, a few routine factors can influence their growth and blooming performance.

”Factors such as extreme weather conditions and incorrect pruning can lead to poor flowering. Proper care helps them perform at their best rather than keeping them alive.”

Luckily, there are some top care tips you can follow to protect your hydrangeas during the harsh winter months.

Top hydrangea care tips this winter

Harsh temperatures can often take their toll on your plants, and so you’ll need to safeguard hydrangeas against cold and frost ahead of time.

“To safeguard your hydrangeas from harsh weather, apply a layer of organic mulch around their base,” advises Parker.

“This will help retain moisture, provide some protection against cold temperatures, and suppress weeds. Organic mulches include composted bark, woodchip, straw, or leaves. These materials decompose over time, adding extra nutrients to the soil.”

Additionally, you’ll need to protect plants from heavy snowfall. “After a period of heavy snow, gently brush excess snow from branches using a broom to reduce the risk of damage caused by its weight, particularly during prolonged periods of bad winter weather."

Other top tips include removing damaged or diseased stems to keep your plants healthy all season. And it's recommended to leave faded flower heads intact through winter. This can help protect developing buds for spring, while adding seasonal texture in the garden.

And if you want to double your hydrangea blooms, check out this simple hack to multiply your plants for free.

More from Tom's Guide

• The compact shrub is secretly replacing hydrangeas for better fragrance and easier care
• Gardeners being urged to add coffee grounds when watering hydrangeas
• Drooping hydrangeas? Try these 5 tricks to perk them up fast

No matter what time of year it is, there seems to be one gardening chore that feels like a never-ending challenge — weeds. This is especially the case in damp fall, when I’m finding my gravel paths and patio pavers littered with unsightly weeds.

And while larger, visible weeds with clear taproots are easy enough to pull out, pesky weeds stuck deep in narrow cracks and crevices are super tricky and time-consuming to remove.

Which is why I was thrilled to discover a kitchen staple that is the ultimate trick for clearing weeds between my pavers.

Baking soda has been a staple in my cleaning routine for years, and there are so many uses for this ingredient — but it can also be used as a homemade, cost-effective weed killer. This is due to its elevated sodium levels, which draw moisture out of plant cells, drying out young weeds. But how effective is this?

I asked gardening experts why baking soda actually kills weeds, and exactly how long it takes.

How long does baking soda take to kill a weed?

Similar to commercial weed killers, baking soda acts as a natural bioherbicide that kills weeds on direct contact with foliage. But how fast does it act?

"Visible damage may occur within about 24–48 hours, although results can vary depending on the size and type of weed, weather conditions, and how thoroughly the baking soda contacts the foliage," states Kathleen Hallal, VP of Landcare and Municipalities at FireHawk Bioherbicide.

"Baking soda can be an effective household option for treating small weeds because its high sodium content can draw moisture from plant tissue and cause the weed to dry out."

Should you clear away the dead plants once the baking soda has done its job? "Once a weed has died, removing the dead plant material is generally a good idea, especially for appearance and to keep the area tidy," says Hallal.

While baking soda works well for eliminating smaller weeds, it cannot penetrate the deep taproot of larger varieties. To tackle larger weeds, you’ll need to pull them by hand or use dedicated tools and products.

How to use baking soda to kill weeds the right way

Bear in mind, applying baking soda properly is vital —or else you risk causing unintended harm to your yard.

“When using this kind of method to kill weeds, it's important to be cautious and apply it carefully, as it may also damage surrounding plants and affect the soil if used repeatedly,” advises Paul Parker, plants and bulbs specialist at J. Parker’s.

“Once the weed has died back, it's best to remove it rather than leave it in place. Wait until the foliage has turned brown and withered, then carefully remove the plant using a small shovel and gloves. Try to remove as much of the root system as possible, particularly with perennial weeds, as any remaining roots may allow them to grow back.”

It’s also worth noting that using baking soda is only a temporary fix for young weeds. And for optimal results, it’s best to use it alongside other conventional weed-control techniques.

“Its main limitation is consistency,” adds Hallal. “Baking soda is not specifically formulated for weed control, so it can be difficult to get even coverage, and the powder can blow away or wash off in rain.”

Additionally, baking soda should be used sparingly, as it could have long-term effects on the quality of your soil. “Over time, excessive sodium can affect soil conditions and potentially harm desirable plants, so it should be used carefully around lawns, garden beds, and landscaped areas.”

However, baking soda is still great for occasional spot treatment for small weeds, particularly when tackling those pesky ones growing in paving cracks or driveways.

In any case, try this household staple the next time you need to banish small weeds - and it should take just 48 hours.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

My yard is absolutely covered in leaves and that's always one of the biggest indicators that I need to start seriously thinking about getting it ready for winter. The winter months bring their own set of challenges from thinning grass to damaged roots, so being prepared and protecting your shrubs and lawn will ultimately save you a lot of time, money and hard work.

Over the past few years, I've streamlined the steps I take in order to fit in my winter garden prep before it gets too cold and before the frost starts to wreak havoc on my plants. Here's the 5-step checklist I swear by each year to get my yard winter ready.

1. Get rid of clutter and debris

As mentioned, the fallen leaves are the first problem I know I need to tackle. They can quickly damage the glass, blocking sunlight and reducing air circulation. Once I've raked up the leaves with my favorite 'tarp burrito' method, I need to focus on removing any more debris and clutter.

Over the summer months, my yard has been lovingly used, but that means there are tools, toys and leftover gardening items lying around. For winter, it's important to clear up and pack away everything that doesn't belong. Not only because leaving them out will damage your yard, but it'll ruin the items too.

2. Wrap up fragile plants

It's hard to pick plants for your yard that last all-year round and some in particular are sensitive to the winter weather, especially those which are tropical/exotic. After you identify which plants these are, it's a great idea to wrap them up to protect them. For this, I look to the 5 household items that can protect your plants from frost.

My personal favorites to use are horticultural fleece or bubble wrap as it's something I usually have leftover from the year before (or ready for wrapping presents in the holiday season). As soon as the temperature really drops or there's warning of frost, I like to wrap them up and leave them until spring.

3. One last mow

Working out when to give your lawn one last mow depends on where you're living, but it also shouldn't just be dictated because you know you're heading into the winter months. As the Farmers' Almanac explains: "Keep mowing your lawn as long as the grass is actively growing." And that's a rule I live by.

Adding: "A useful temperature clue is when daytime high temperatures consistently remain near or below 50°F." But you also shouldn't go on temperature alone. Consider the growth, temperature and type of grass you have in your yard as well – and, of course, whether it's still growing.

4. Mulch borders

Another way to protect the plants before the winter hits is to apply some compost or bark mulch around the roots. This works as a great insulator to protect them from frost, as well as protecting the soil in general which can deteriorate during extreme winds and heavy rains.

As a rule, I like to add about a 2 to 3 inch layer as a sort of winter blanket that mimics the one I find myself sitting under. This is also an effective way to stop weeds that are hardy enough to penetrate the soil from growing all winter long.

5. Clean, cover up or pack away furniture

In the same way I like to clear up any debris or clutter in my yard, I think it's also important to focus on any lawn, yard or patio furniture you've been putting to good use over the summer months.

It's far too easy when it gets cold and dark outside to forget about the furniture and put off clearing it up or covering it over for another day. If you keep forgetting, you're putting your furniture in danger of rust, excessive wear or even rotting. So, get out there and get it wrapped up before it's too late!

More from Tom's Guide

• The fall lawncare mistake you’re probably making — and the secret to a greener lawn next spring
• Winter is deadly for helpful insects but your yard can save them — here's how
• Want a green garden come spring? Expert tips to protect your lawn this winter

If you’re staring at your Christmas cactus right now and seeing nothing but plain green leaves, don't panic. There is still time to turn things around. The plant is notoriously finicky about its fall cues, and even a sliver of hallway light or a radiator turned up too high can stall budding entirely.

Fortunately, triggering a full flush of winter blooms doesn't require specialist gear or green fingers. A few precise changes to where it sits, how much you water it, and when you plunge it into darkness will kickstart the budding process in days.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 signs you've overwatered your Christmas cactus — and how to fix it
• 3 reasons your Christmas cactus is wilting and how to fix it now
• How to keep your Christmas cactus producing gorgeous blooms every year

After an unusually warm fall, many yards are still showing signs of late-season wildlife activity. Extended mild weather encourages wild rabbits to breed later into the year than usual, meaning shallow nests that typically appear in mid-spring can linger well into the cooler months.

As you head out for late-season garden tidy-ups, raking leaves or giving the grass a final cut can easily unearth a suspicious depression in the turf.

Before running the mower across it or filling it in, a quick check ensures the young have safely vacated the nest and that your lawn can be tidied without disturbing any remaining kits.

More from Tom's Guide

• 3 ways to keep your neighbor's grass on their side of the fence
• How long does grass seed take to sprout? Here's the exact timeline
• Don’t rake that pile of leaves! It might actually be a hidden opossum nest

Crisp breezes and early sunsets do not mean you can't enjoy your backyard in fall. With a few cozy, intentional layers, your yard can easily transition into a warm, functional extension of your living room well into November. Holding on to backyard nights comes down to beating the chill, blocking unpredictable weather, and bringing the soft textures of the indoors outside.

Here are the five ways I am planning to set up my yard to stay comfortable, warm, and inviting for the entire season.

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If you're looking to gift outdoor apparel this holiday season, there are a number of brands who make gear that's not only functional and fashionable, but also use sustainable or recycled materials. After all, you won't be able to enjoy the outdoors if there's no more outdoors left. Here are 15 items that will make great gifts.

As temperatures drop and your backyard is covered in fallen leaves, it’s easy to assume that apart from clearing your lawn, gardening takes a backseat until spring. But in reality, it is just the start of your spring garden.

The secret to a lush display of cheery daffodils, tulips and crocuses starts well before you spot the first shoots breaking through the soil. These bright blooms depend on the cool earth to take root, which is why the work to create a beautiful spring garden starts right now.

Why fall is the best time to plant bulbs

Most spring bulbs need a period of cold to initiate flowering — a process known as vernalization. That’s why mid to late fall is a good time to plant bulbs.

"You want to plant before the soil has cooled off, but before it freezes," says Lindsay Chastain, author at Waddle & Cluck

Getting the timing right allows the bulb to develop a strong root system and bloom fully in spring, without sprouting too early, explains Marina Prokaten, plant expert at Plantum.

Timing varies by region

Because bulbs should be planted in the ground before the soil freezes, timing depends on your local climate.

“In colder northern regions, your planting window is September and October, for the most part," explains Chastain. "In moderate climates, October through November, and in warmer regions, you can often wait until November or December.”

To give your bulbs the best chance, Chastain advises planting them about six weeks before your area’s typical hard freeze.

Top tip
But planting too far ahead has its own risks. “Don’t plant too early,” warns Prokaten. “If the weather is still warm, the bulbs may sprout prematurely and get frostbitten, or die off during a cold snap.”

To get your timing just right she suggests keeping an eye on the forecast and waiting until the night temperatures consistently drop to between 40-50°F.

Which bulbs can you plant now?

Mid-to-late fall is prime time for planting daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops, muscari, alliums and fritillaries. You can also plant plenty of other spring-flowering bulbs. Besides common spring bulbs, Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer, writer and horticulturist at First Tunnels, recommends that gardeners look for bulbs that are native to where you live.

Native species often establish with ease and offer vital sustenance for local pollinators.

How to plant bulbs for success

Starting with healthy bulbs will give you the best chance of success. Chastain says to choose bulbs that feel firm and heavy, with no spots or mold. How can you tell if they are fit to plant? “Give them a sniff and make sure that they don’t have a foul smell, because that will indicate that the bulb is not good,” she advises.

When planting your bulbs, Waddington says choosing the right site matters. “Many spring-flowering bulbs prefer a sunny site with free-draining soil," she says. "But some are well-suited to damper conditions, and options can also be found for partial shade.”

Once you have the right location, she suggests planting your bulbs in groups of at least three to five for a more natural look. What's more, large drifts of bulbs will look far more spectacular than one isolated flower.

You also need to follow the golden rule of bulb planting. “Bury the bulbs at three times their own height — making sure the sprouting end is facing upwards,” she adds.

Once your bulbs are in the ground, Chastain advises giving them a thorough water before allowing the soil to settle and filling in around the bulb, which will all help to encourage root growth.

If you’re planting in a container, make sure the pot has a drainage hole and use a well-draining potting mix. You can also plant the bulbs closer together than you would in the soil, just make sure they are not touching.

When planting in a container is best

If you have heavy soil or it is prone to waterlogging, Waddington says container planting offers a workaround. But she warns that you have to make sure that the soil doesn’t dry out, or that the pots don’t stand in water through the winter.

Watch the cold
Cold exposure is another problem. Waddington explains, “Container-grown bulbs are more exposed to freezing temperatures than bulbs planted in the ground, so pots may need to be placed in a polytunnel or greenhouse, or have some other form of protection during prolonged cold spells.”

Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist at Flowerbulbs, offers an easy solution to overcome the cold problem, and advises, “It’s best to select bulbs that are two hardiness zones colder than your zone. For instance, daffodils are generally hardy in zones 3-8. If you live in zone 5, you’re safe to plant them because they can withstand the cold of zone 3.”

Experiment with your planting
Growing bulbs in containers also gives you the opportunity to experiment with different planting techniques, such as lasagna planting, which is based on a layered approach. The bulbs are layered by bloom time to give a continuous show.

The biggest mistake you can make when planting bulbs

According to Chastain, getting drainage right is the most important thing you can do for your bulbs, which is why planting them in waterlogged soil or in a container without drainage is the biggest mistake you can make. And Montgomery agrees, “They will rot in soil that is consistently wet or has standing water.”

Bulb planting tools

Besides a sturdy hand trowel and a pair of gardening gloves, Waddington says a bulb planter can help when planting lots of bulbs in a lawn or established border. You might also want to consider a bulb auger, which attaches to a drill, such as Power Planter’s DIY Guru Garden Auger, for $28 at Amazon.

That’s it; you don’t need fancy equipment to get planting, and if you follow the expert advice above, you should have a yard full of blooms by springtime.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make these 7 bulb planting mistakes — and what to do instead
• Stop planting bulbs one by one: Why ‘bouquet style’ is the new secret to a fuller garden
• The gardener’s guide to surviving heavy storms and waterlogged lawns

Few things spoil a manicured garden faster than stray grass sneaking across the boundary line. You can spend hours mowing, edging, and weeding your lawn, only to look down and find vigorous runners from next door pushing beneath the panels and invading your borders. It looks messy, creates double the maintenance work, and pulling it out by hand only delays the inevitable.

The issue comes down to plant biology rather than poor gardening habits next door. Grass doesn’t care about boundary lines — it sends creeping roots sideways just beneath the soil, while wind easily blows seeds right under the fence panels. If you want a clean dividing line that lasts, you have to cut off their underground route.

1. Install an underground root barrier

One of the most effective ways to halt creeping grass is to block its roots below the soil line while simultaneously stopping its surface runners above ground. Flexible garden edging made from heavy-duty plastic, metal sheeting, or slim concrete strips creates a physical wall that aggressive roots and runners struggle to penetrate.

To set one up properly, carve out a narrow trench directly along your boundary or fence line, aiming for a depth of roughly four to six inches. Slot your edging material vertically into the channel so that it sits an inch or two above the soil line —this small lip is crucial for stopping surface runners from jumping over.

Then backfill the soil firmly on both sides to pack out any air pockets, keeping the barrier secure and low-profile while it blocks creeping roots from crossing the gap.

2. Build a gravel or mulch buffer zone

If digging deep trenches along an entire boundary feels like too much work, creating an inhospitable barrier zone above ground works almost as well.

Clear out any existing green shoots directly beneath the fence line, unroll a durable layer of breathable landscape fabric along the strip, and pin it flat with ground pegs. Then simply top it with a three to four inch layer of decorative gravel, crushed stone, or dense bark mulch.

The gravel stops water from collecting, making the ground far too dry for shallow surface roots to settle, while bark naturally blocks sunlight from feeding new growth. As an added bonus, if any rogue weeds manage to sprout in the loose stones, you can pluck them out in seconds.

3. Lay down a hard-wearing mow strip

For anyone looking for a permanent, fuss-free boundary, laying a solid mowing strip right under the fence provides the neatest finish.

Sinking concrete slabs, stone pavers, or bricks flat into the ground does double duty: it completely blocks the soil under the fence panels, while giving your lawnmower wheel a flat track to run along.

While it takes a bit of measuring and levelling to put in, it saves you from having to awkwardly strim against wooden fence posts every weekend. If the occasional stubborn blade manages to poke through the cracks between pavers, pouring boiling water straight over it will destroy the roots, without needing to spray harsh weed killers near your plants.

More from Tom's Guide

• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring
• How long does grass seed take to sprout? The exact timeline and 3 ways to speed it up
• Stop spring lawn weeds before they sprout with a simple fall pre-emergent barrier — applying it now saves you hours of yard work

As the threat of extreme weather grows, bringing heavy storms, high winds and flooding, gardening and outdoor enthusiasts should prepare and secure their outdoor spaces. High winds can tip over furniture, lift lightweight planters, and damage decorative lighting, while heavy rain can cause flooding if it has nowhere to go.

So, to help protect your yard from a storm and reduce the impact of extreme weather damage, I asked the experts for a plan of action, and it's based on a three-prong approach.

1. Secure fixtures, lighting and furniture

Ahead of bad weather, Jon Saeed, managing director at Lighting Legends, says it’s worth checking your yard and thinking about what strong winds could affect. “Things like garden furniture, plant pots and decorative ornaments can easily be blown over, while outdoor lights and their fixings may be put under extra strain when the weather turns,” he says.

Outdoor furniture
Garden chairs and tables can shift or topple over in strong winds, particularly if they are lightweight. He suggests storing smaller pieces in a shed or garage, and securing heavier furniture so it is less likely to move.

Cushions and decorative outdoor rugs will also get a beating if left out in a storm, so bring them inside, or store them in a waterproof container to keep them dry.

Outdoor lighting
Lights can be particularly vulnerable to strong winds and wet weather. Saeed suggests checking the hooks and supports on permanent fixings and making sure cables aren’t hanging loosely.

He also advises, “Unplug any lights, and if strong winds are expected, take down string lights to prevent bulbs from shattering.”

Top tip
It’s also worth checking your lighting for an IP65 rating, which means it can withstand wet and windy conditions.

Containers and decor
Lightweight plant pots and empty containers will be blown across your yard in strong winds. To avoid the damage and mess, Saeed recommends moving small pots into a shed or sheltered spot, and grouping heavier pots together.

Outbuildings and fencing
Don’t forget to check your outbuildings and fencing before a storm arrives. “Look for unstable loose panels and fixings, or shed doors that could swing open in strong winds,” says Saeed.

When the weather is fine, get outside and make those repairs to avoid unnecessary damage.

2. Manage your plants and soil

While a good soak can benefit our gardens, Mark Dwelly, Head Gardener at Audley Stanbridge Earls, says, “Constant downpours can lead to waterlogged soil, hinder weed control, and even damage delicate plants.”

So, what do we need to do to manage our soil during heavy rain?

Lawncare
Dwelly advises holding off on mowing your lawn and says, “Mowing wet grass compacts the soil and can lead to patchy growth. Allow the lawn to dry out completely before attempting a mow.”

Stake plants
Check your garden for any plants that will be vulnerable in a storm. Dwelly recommends staking or caging vulnerable plants, such as tomatoes or peppers, to keep them from toppling over in heavy rain.

Cover tender plants
Heavy rain can also damage delicate flowers, so to keep them protected. "If possible, move container plants to a covered area or use temporary shelters like row covers," he advises.

Check for fungal disease
Prolonged moisture can encourage fungal growth, so Dwelly recommends you keep an eye on your plants and treat any outbreaks promptly with organic fungicide.

Get weeding
Step out into your garden in between showers and pull up some weeds. According to Dwelly, weeds are easier to remove when the soil is moist. You could also make use of the time and clean up your garden tools, and sharpen your pruning shears.

3. Flood proof your yard

Securing your yard against wind damage is not the only part of the action plan. Chris Bonnet, a garden expert at Gardening Express, explains why you need to prepare for flooding in advance. “Floodproofing your garden is crucial for its longevity and can reduce maintenance costs in the future.”

But what does floodproofing your yard entail? Bonnett says it’s about creating space for water to flow and collect, ensuring your garden has healthy, high-quality soil year-round.

Rain garden
One way to limit flooding is to create a rain garden. Bonnet explains that they are shallow dug out basins filled with plants, which can withstand up to 48 hours of waterlogging. “They help water to drain into the surrounding soil, absorbing up to 30% more water than lawn.”

He says, once they are established, they require minimal maintenance, making them perfect long-term solutions for managing the excess water in your garden.

Flood-tolerant plants
While I’ve been thinking of planting more drought-tolerant plants to handle the extreme heat my garden struggled through this summer, Bonnett suggests considering flood-tolerant plants to help your garden withstand heavy rain.

He says carex, acorus, daylilies, marsh marigold, lady’s smock and New England aster, all of which favor wet conditions.

Water-loving trees
Beyond plants that thrive in wet soil, trees can help manage excess water in your yard through canopy interception, high water absorption and by improving soil infiltration. What exactly is canopy interception? Bonnett explains that water gets caught in the leaves and then evaporates, so it doesn’t pool in your yard.

Trees also absorb large amounts of moisture from the soil through their roots and release it back into the atmosphere through transpiration; their extensive root systems also let rainwater soak deep into the soil rather than pool on the surface.

If you’re thinking of planting more trees in your yard and have the space, Bonnett recommends willow trees, river birch and red maple as great choices for flood-prone gardens, as they thrive in wet conditions.

Hard landscaping
As well as adding flood-tolerant plants and trees to your yard, your choice of hard landscaping can also reduce the risk of flooding. I have a gravel area in my own yard, which lets rainwater pass through to the soil below. However, if you have a large paved area, consider adding drain grates to prevent water from pooling.

More from Tom's Guide

• The 5-minute fall flood check every homeowner needs right now
• 3 expert-approved tasks you must do in October to get your yard ready for fall
• 5 ways to protect your lawn from flooding — tips from garden experts

Fall weather may be upon us, but that doesn’t mean our lawncare duties should go into hibernation just yet. In fact, now is the time to tend to our lawns and ensure they’re in good shape come spring.

And if you’ve noticed that your once lush lawn is looking patchy, soggy, or generally in bad condition, it could point to compacted soil. Essentially, this is when pressure or certain weight squeezes soil particles together. This thick layer blocks any water, essential nutrients, or air from getting into the roots — affecting healthy growth.

But how do you know? And more importantly, what can you do to repair it? To help solve this dilemma, I asked the garden experts to share the key signs of compacted soil, how to test for it, and the best ways to fix it this fall.

1. Water sits on your lawn

Puddles or standing water on your lawn clearly indicate compacted soil underneath. This is because tightly packed ground prevents proper drainage, which can lead to waterlogging, patchy spots, and root disease.

“One of the clearest signs is water sitting on the surface after rain,” states Chris Bonnett, the founder of GardeningExpress.

“If puddles take a long time to drain, it could indicate that compacted soil is preventing water from soaking into the ground properly.

The first step to fix this is to aerate the soil (making holes) to allow it to breathe. Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators.

Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the lawn is badly compacted, a hollow-tine aerator, which removes small plugs of soil and removes the pressure from the soil, may be more effective,” advises Alex Dobson, garden and outdoor space expert at Charles & Ivy.

“For smaller gardens, use a garden fork to make holes across the affected areas, gently rocking it backwards and forwards to open up the soil.”

Just avoid aerating when the ground is very wet or frozen, as this could make waterlogging worse. If in doubt, check out these expert tips on aerating a wet lawn.

2. The ground feels hard

As well as the ground feeling squishy to walk on, you might also encounter a hardened surface. This is especially during the colder fall months.

“You may also notice that the ground feels unusually hard, grass growth has become thin, or moss and algae are appearing in persistently damp areas,” adds Bonnett.

So how do I check for this? Luckily, there is a simple way to check for compaction before you aerate. “A simple way to check is to push a screwdriver or garden fork into the soil when it is slightly moist. If it is difficult to penetrate the ground, particularly in areas where people regularly walk, compaction could be the issue.”

“Fall is a good time to do this, as long as the ground isn’t waterlogged. You can also overseed bare patches to encourage fresh growth. Try to avoid walking on the lawn when it’s wet too, as this can make compaction worse.”

3. The grass is thin or patchy

Another clear warning sign is when your once-lush lawn starts to turn sparse and patchy. When soil becomes heavily compacted, grass roots are starved of essential air and water, making it nearly impossible for your lawn to thrive.

One way to fix this is to overseed your lawn. But before sprinkling more grass seed or lawn feed, you’ll need to check and deal with compacted soil first.

“For lawns with bare patches, overseeding can help the grass fill in once the soil has been improved and conditions are suitable for new growth,” advises Dobson. “If water continues to collect in the same spots, you may also need to look at the garden's drainage rather than relying on aeration alone”.

“Once you've aerated the lawn, try to avoid repeatedly walking over the same areas, particularly when the ground is wet. You can also add stepping stones to the lawn to help prevent the soil from becoming compacted again.”

So if you’ve spotted any of these warning signs on your lawn, the key thing is to loosen the soil and reduce pressure on the grass. Once these issues are fixed immediately, you’ll have lush and healthy grass all year round.

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

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After a scorching summer heatwave and drought left my lawn bare and patchy, I knew it needed serious fall maintenance. I’ve already reseeded the damage, but with winter fast approaching, the big question is whether the grass seed and tender new growth can survive the first frost.

As temperatures drop, you can’t ignore the inevitable; it won’t be that long until you draw back your curtains to find a white, frosty lawn. The exact date of the first freeze depends on your location, but getting your reseeding done early if crucial if you want your new seed to survive.

Can grass seed handle frost?

Whether your newly seeded lawn can survive a frost depends on two things. If the seed has not germinated the frost won’t kill it. Instead it will go dormant in the soil, and it should survive, then germinate once the temperatures warm up.

But it’s another issue if the seed has already germinated and started to sprout. At this point it doesn’t have the strength and root system to store energy to help it survive a cold blast.

What is the ideal time to plant grass seed?

If you’re sowing grass seed this fall, give it at least six weeks before the first frost so the roots have time to establish. If you don’t already know the first frost date in your area, you can enter your ZIP code in The Old Farmer’s Almanac Frost Calculator. This should tell you whether you’ve left it too late to sow grass seed, or if you still have a 6-week window to get your seed sown.

Can you protect your grass seed from frost?

The best scenario is to sow your seed in good time before the first frost is expected in your area, or if you’ve missed this window, wait until the weather gets warmer in the spring.

However, if you’ve already sown your lawn seed and you expect a frost before it’s had time to establish and have the strength to fight the frost, there are ways you can protect it.

1. Lay light polythene sheeting or garden fleece over the seeded area. This will trap in ground heat and stop the freezing air from penetrating. But, you'll need to weigh down the edges to stop it blowing away in the wind.

2. Give your lawn a deep watering late at night before a cold snap will also help the soil retain heat, more so than if the soil is dry.

3. Avoid treading on your reseeded lawn once the frost hits. The blades are brittle and can snap, killing the plant.

4. Add a thin layer of topsoil can help insulate the seed and give it a better chance of survival.

Over to you
Let me know if you have any questions about reseeding your lawn in fall; you can pop them in the comments section below.

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As the mowing season winds down and temperatures start to plunge, packing away your lawnmower is usually the final task on the fall yard work checklist. However, simply wheeling your mower into the shed or garage with a half-full tank of gasoline is a costly mistake.

Stagnant, untreated gas is the single biggest cause of small-engine failure, leading to gummed-up carburetors, rusted fuel lines, and an expensive repair bill — or a completely dead engine when spring rolls around.

Before you store your equipment for the cold months ahead, here is why untreated fuel ruins your mower during seasonal storage, and the simple one-step solution that keeps your engine protected.

1. Why gas goes bad

Most gasoline purchased at the pump contains up to 10 percent ethanol, which works fine when you are burning through a tank every week. The problem arises when that ethanol-blended fuel sits idle in a lawn mower tank for more than 30 days.

Ethanol is hygroscopic, aggressively drawing moisture from the air into the fuel, a process accelerated by temperature fluctuations that cause tank condensation.

Over a few weeks, this trapped water triggers "phase separation," causing a heavy, acidic water-ethanol mixture to sink to the tank's bottom where the carburetor line feeds.

This slurry corrodes metal, destroys rubber seals, and leaves a gummy varnish that clogs the carburetor's microscopic jets. Because of this, next spring the engine will refuse to combust, even with a perfect spark, or it will stall immediately.

2. Stabilize or drain the gas tank

To keep your mower's fuel system pristine over the off-season, you have two choices: treat a full tank with a high-quality fuel stabilizer, or drain the fuel system completely.

If you choose to store it empty, remove any remaining or stale gas from your lawn mower's tank. The safest and cleanest way to do this is by using a manual hand pump. These inexpensive siphons come in various hose lengths and diameters to suit your setup, allowing you to easily transfer fuel into a safe storage container.

If you aren't comfortable siphoning fuel lines or draining the system, adding a fuel stabilizer is the easiest, most reliable method. Fuel stabilizer contains antioxidants and anti-corrosive additives that bond with gasoline molecules, preventing phase separation and stopping fuel oxidation.

To do it correctly, pour the recommended dose of stabilizer into a fresh can of gas, or directly into your mower's tank, and top it off so the tank is roughly 95 percent full.

Leaving a full tank leaves minimal airspace for condensation to form inside the walls.

Once added, run the mower engine for five to ten minutes. This step is critical: running the engine ensures the treated fuel circulates through the entire system, filling the carburetor bowl and fuel lines with stabilized gas.

3. Maintenance steps to finish your mower prep

Once the fuel system is stabilized and protected, spend five extra minutes completing two final winterization steps to ensure your mower starts on the very first pull next spring.

First, disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any accidental starting, tilt the mower up with the air filter pointing upward, and scrape away all caked-on grass clippings and mud from the underside of the deck.

Damp, trapped grass holds moisture against the metal deck all winter long, causing heavy rust and structural corrosion.

Then remove the mower blade and sharpen or balance it now so it is ready for the first spring cut, or simply wipe down the blade with a thin coat of WD-40 or mineral oil to ward off surface rust while stored in a damp shed or garage.

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As fall leaves begin to carpet the lawn, tackling your gutters early seems like a proactive way to check a major chore off your seasonal home maintenance list. However, clearing your downspouts too soon in the season could be a costly waste of time that almost guarantees you will have to haul out the ladder a second time before winter sets in.

Timing your fall gutter prep requires a delicate balance between letting the canopy clear and protecting your home's foundation from heavy rains. Here is why jumping the gun on gutter cleaning backfires — and the exact window to do it right.

Why cleaning your gutters too early in fall backfires

The temptation to clear gutters during the first crisp weekend of fall is understandable, but sweeping them while trees are still shedding is an exercise in futility.

When you scoop out leaves while the surrounding canopy is only partially bare, the very next fall breeze or rainstorm will dump a fresh layer of dry foliage, twigs, and oak tassels straight into your clean troughs. Within a week, those newly cleared channels fill right back up.

Worse still, early fall leaves are often dry and lightweight. Rather than packing tightly at the bottom of the trough, they float freely into the top of downspouts, creating quick, stubborn jams at the elbows that trap subsequent rainfall.

Wait too long, however, and wet, freezing leaves turn into a heavy, sludge-like paste that weighs down your fascia boards and pulls the gutters away from your roofline.

The golden rule for timing your fall gutter clean

To avoid climbing the ladder twice, follow the 80 percent rule: wait until roughly 80% of the surrounding trees have shed their leaves before doing your primary fall clear-out.

Unless your gutters are already overflowing and causing immediate drainage issues, the ideal window for most regions lands between late October and mid-November — right after the first hard freeze forces deciduous trees like maples, oaks, and birches to drop their remaining foliage.

If you live in an area surrounded predominantly by pine or oak trees, your timeline shifts slightly:

• Deciduous trees (Maples, Elms, Ashes): Wait until late fall after a hard frost when the branches are mostly bare.
• Late-dropping oaks: Oak trees retain their leaves much longer into the season, often dropping them in late November or early December. Wait for the final canopy drop so you aren't caught off guard.
• Pine and needle trees: Pines shed needles continuously in early fall; sweep them right before the first anticipated snowfall to prevent frozen ice dams

How to check for hidden downspout blockages before winter

Once you hit the right fall window, a quick scoop of the main troughs isn't enough to safeguard your home against winter water damage. A single hidden clog in the downspout can cause freezing water to back up under your shingles, leading to costly roof leaks and damaged foundations.

To ensure your system is completely clear, follow this simple 3-step inspection.

After removing loose debris from the horizontal troughs, place a running garden hose directly into the top of each downspout. Watch the bottom outlet to confirm water flows out freely at full pressure.

If water backs up at the top, the clog is trapped in the curved elbow. Tap the side of the metal downspout gently with a rubber mallet to dislodge packed debris, or feed a plumber's snake down the pipe to break up the blockage.

Make sure your downspout extensions funnel water at least 3 to 5 feet away from your home's foundation to prevent pooling and basement seepage during winter thaws.

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Fall is here, and it’s already taken its toll on my once-lush, green grass. But before the weather turns too chilly, October provides the perfect opportunity to repair damaged lawns and prepare them for the winter months ahead.

And one essential task is to aerate your lawn to prevent waterlogging and ensure key nutrients reach the soil. However, with constant drizzles and damp conditions expected throughout the fall season, is it okay to aerate a wet lawn?

I asked a lawn care expert to find out and get their top tips.

Can I aerate a wet lawn?

Generally, you can aerate a slightly damp lawn but not when it’s saturated with heavy rain — so it’s important to distinguish between the two.

“A simple rule is that damp is fine, soggy isn’t — if water is standing on the surface or the tines come out coated in sticky mud, wait a few days,” states Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith.

“Spring and fall are the best times to aerate partly because the soil is moist, which makes it easier to get the tines in, and showers can soak straight into the freshly aerated soil. What you don’t want is soil that’s so wet it smears. Then you’re not opening up the soil; you’re sealing it, and you still want air reaching the roots.”

Top tips for aerating a damp lawn

What's the best way to aerate a damp lawn in fall? While there are several ways to aerate your lawn, it’s important to choose the right tool in fall.

Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators. Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the ground is on the damp side, solid-tine spiking is the gentlest approach, and you can do it any time from March to November, but avoid very wet soil that smears,” advises Davis.

You’ll also need to know the right time to aerate your lawn and best practices. “Fall, from the end of September to mid-November, is ideal as the weather is getting wetter rather than drier,” suggests Davis. “If you’re using a hollow tine aerator, mow the lawn close beforehand as it makes the cores much easier to deal with.

“Cores should be left to dry in place. Then go over them with the mower with the box off, if the instructions allow. It puts the soil and nutrients back into the lawn and helps break down thatch. If you can’t do that, rake them up with the back of a flat rake, use them as top dressing, or add them to the compost heap.

Finally, finish with a good soak on compacted areas. After spiking or hollow tining a heavily compacted patch, run the sprinkler for 30 minutes, then leave it off for a day or two.

Also, look for telltale signs your lawn needs aerating, including patchy, yellow grass or water sitting on the surface after rainfall.

When not to aerate a wet lawn

Besides knowing when it's the right time to aerate wet soil, you should also know when to avoid it. This includes before incoming frost, which can freeze the aeration holes and harm the lawn.

“Don’t aerate very wet soil that smears, and don’t do it if frost is imminent because freezing soon after hollow tining will make the lawn heave up,” adds Davis.

“Don’t leave the cores on the lawn to disappear, as they won’t break down fully and you’ll end up with a bumpy surface. Finally, don’t expect aeration to fix everything. If your lawn is 20 years old or more and badly compacted, you may need to dig it over to at least 15cm and start again.”

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

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• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
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Fall has arrived, but cooler temperatures don’t mean you should put away your garden tools just yet. You still have essential tasks to complete to prepare your yard for the winter ahead. And just when you thought it was time to pack away your lawn mower until spring, you may want to think again.

According to a lawn expert, gardeners need to continue mowing through October — because mild fall temperatures allow grass to keep growing.

Not only can this simple task promote a healthy, green lawn, but long grass can actually do more harm than good.

“Long grass holds on to moisture, especially with the damp mornings and heavy dew we get in fall,” says Jonathan Davis, a lawn expert at Lawnsmith.

“That creates the perfect conditions for fungal diseases like red thread and fusarium patch to take hold. Once they get a grip, they can leave your lawn looking patchy and sorry for itself by spring.”

What’s more, moss is one of the most common lawn weeds, known as a ‘silent grass killer’, that appears in the form of green, sponge-like patches between the blades of grass.

“Moss loves damp, shady spots, and at this time of year there's plenty of both. If your grass is long and thick, the light can't reach the base of it, meaning your lawn will struggle.”

So if you want to get your lawn in top shape for spring, here are some top tips for mowing your lawn in October.

How to cut your lawn in fall

Avoid cutting your grass too short; the ‘golden rule’ is to never trim more than a third of its height. This is because mowing too close to the ground exposes the lawn to root diseases and encourages weed growth.

“Never cut more than a third off the height of the grass in one go,” he said. “Think of grass like an iceberg: a fifth above ground and four fifths below,” adds Davis.

“Take too much off, and you reduce the roots, leaving the plant weak and more vulnerable to disease and weeds.”

In any case, if you are battling weeds, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

In addition, Davis advises gradually changing your mower's height for a couple of cuts before making the final adjustment. And don't lower the blades if the grass is very long, as it'll put strain on the mower. Ideally, cut on your current setting first, then go lower a day or two later.

Also, it’s best to get the timing right — choose a dry afternoon for mowing and avoid cutting when the grass is wet or frosty. “Wait for a dry spell and go over it when growth slows right down. A little effort now means a much healthier, greener lawn when spring comes round.”

When is the final cut of the year?

So when is it finally time to put away your lawn mower this season? Experts agree that around mid-November, you should leave the grass at around 5cm.

“That's the sweet spot for winter,” adds Davis. “It's long enough to protect the roots from frost and keep the crown healthy, but short enough that it won't become a soggy, matted mess over the colder months.”

So before you put your mower to rest, give your grass that essential trim this October, and your lawn will thank you for it come spring.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

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Planted grass seed and waiting for those first green shoots to show up can feel like watching paint dry. While most lawn seed takes between 7 and 14 days to germinate, full establishment takes several weeks, and certain stubborn varieties can sit in the soil for up to a month before popping up.

If you want to shorten that waiting window and avoid ending up with patchy, uneven soil, the key is managing soil prep, moisture, and ground warmth right from day one.

The germination rule of thumb: how long will you wait?

Your waiting time depends almost entirely on whether you are planting a fast-sprouting cool-season blend or a slower warm-season grass.

The fast sprouters (5 to 10 days): Perennial Ryegrass is the sprinter of lawn care. If you need rapid coverage for bare patches or high-traffic areas, this is your best option.

The steady performers (7 to 14 days): Tall Fescue and Bermudagrass generally show green shoots within a week to ten days under warm, moist conditions.

The medium growers (14 to 21 days): Zoysia and Centipede grasses take two to three weeks to get going.

The slow-and-steady varieties (14 to 30 days): Kentucky Bluegrass and Buffalograss require some patience. They spend weeks building underground root systems before sending up visible blades.

Which grass seed should you sow in fall?

As we move through fall soil temperatures are dropping, making this the best season to sow cool-season grasses. Varieties like Perennial Ryegrass, Tall Fescue, and Kentucky Bluegrass thrive in cooler weather. They germinate best in soil temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C).

Sowing them in autumn gives their roots two full seasons of cool, moist weather to establish deep anchor systems before the heat of next summer hits. Just remember to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before your region's first expected hard frost.

Steer completely clear of warm-season seeds like Bermuda grass during fall. Bermuda grass requires warm soil temperatures between 65°F and 90°F (18°C to 32°C) to germinate and grow. Planting Bermuda grass in fall means the ground will turn too cold before the shoots can establish strong roots, causing the seeds to fail or die off during winter frosts.

3 ways to make grass seed sprout faster

If you want to cut down germination time and ensure every seed takes root, follow this 3-step routine.

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Fall is official here, and it’s already taken its toll on my previously lush and green grass. But, before things get too chilly, October is the ideal time to repair your damaged lawn and prepare for the colder months ahead.

And if, like me, you’ve tackled this by scattering grass seed on those sparse or bare patches, it can be a little disheartening when you haven’t seen any growth sprouting through at all.

That's why I called on a lawn care expert to find out why my grass isn't growing, common mistakes to avoid, and top tips on how to fix it.

Check the weather forecast

According to experts, now is the time to do those all-important lawn repairs. But the process just takes a bit more preparation than expected, and results will naturally depend on weather conditions and technique.

“Thriving spring lawns are built in fall. Thanks to a shift in weather patterns, soil temperatures are staying warmer for longer,” says Chris McIlroy, a lawn expert at The Grass People.

“If temperatures start to stay consistently below 46.4 °F to 50.0 °F, then the window for sowing is closing, so do keep an eye on the forecast. You need a two-week window where the temperatures are above this.”

In addition, be sure to check your soil temperature using a soil thermometer before seeding. Typically, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass need soil temperatures below 65°F, while warm-season varieties like Bermuda grass need at least 65°F.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

Protect it from hungry birds

If you enjoy feeding or watching birds in your yard, these feathered visitors might be another reason your grass seed isn't growing.

“Birds can see freshly laid grass seed as an easy-access buffet, especially at this time of year when other food resources are starting to dwindle,” explains McIlroy. “So they’re taking your seed before it even has a chance to germinate."

So what can we do to prevent our hungry birds from swiping our freshly-laid grass seed?

"Shiny objects like tin foil and old CDs can deter birds from your garden, as the way they reflect light confuses them," adds McIlroy.

"Or you can also cover the seeds with tarp or netting, but make sure it’s not blocking too much light or water from the seeds.”

Not sowing deep enough

Another common mistake is failing to plant seeds at the right depth or in suitable growing conditions. “Seeds should be roughly the depth of three stacked coins to ensure the right seed-to-soil contact for germination, advises McIlroy.

“It keeps seeds protected and warm, and provides the nutrients they need to grow. If the elements have left your seeds exposed, try adding a light layer of topsoil to give seedlings that extra support.”

In addition, you need to ensure you water your seeds properly, but don’t oversaturate them. If seeds are waterlogged or sitting in a pool of water, they won't survive. “Seeds also need to be hydrated but not waterlogged. If they’re left too dry, the seeds will die off, so keep an eye on soil moisture levels".

“Fixing drainage by aerating your lawn is a key step for success, ensuring water has somewhere to go when it rains. Similarly, if your lawn is bumpy, this creates areas for water to pool.”

Other tips include feeding your lawn with a starter fertilizer, which can help grass establish faster with stronger roots. Or simply have some patience, and let nature take its course.

"Sometimes seeds just need a little more time; depending on the conditions, germination can take up to 14 days, and noticeable grass growth even longer."

Check out our expert-approved tips on how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

You might also be interested in the fall lawn care mistake you’re probably making —and the secret to a greener lawn next spring.

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It's a great time of year to roll out your lawn aerator and get to work. Bringing air into the lawn soil will not only help relieve any pressure and compaction that's happened over the year, but it'll also improve airflow, water absorption and your lawn's overall ability to access nutrients to help it grow.

It's not something you need to do too often, but it's a step you don't really want to miss if your lawn is heavily compacted or struggling to drain water (especially with all the rain).

Only after you put in all that effort to push your lawn aerator across your lawn, you might be left wondering if you've done a good enough job. It's certainly something I've contemplated as I stare at my own lawn, unsure whether I've made any real difference.

I've asked the experts for their professional advice on how often you should aerate your lawn, how many passes are enough, and other tips and tricks to get the best results.

When to aerate your lawn

Soil compaction is the ultimate telltale sign that your lawn needs aerating, but how exactly do you figure out if that's what's going on beneath the soil?

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, says: "Homeowners should consider aeration if they're seeing standing water after rain, hard-packed soil, thinning grass, or areas that get a lot of traffic.

"A good rule of thumb is the screwdriver test: if it's hard to push a screwdriver into the soil, compaction is probably preventing healthy root growth."

And once you've figured out that your lawn needs aerating, you also have to consider if it's a good time to do it.

"Timing is everything when it comes to aeration. The best time to aerate your lawn depends on the grass type you have," explains Chris Ramos, PR & Events Coordinator at Blain's Farm & Fleet

When it comes to cool-season grasses like Fescue and Bluegrass, early fall or spring are ideal times, as these grasses grow most vigorously during colder months.

And if you've got warm-season grasses like Bermuda or Zoysia, then late spring to early summer is optimal, coinciding with their peak growing season.

Though Koenig adds: "However, once the ground freezes or the grass has gone fully dormant, it's best to hold off on aggressive projects like aerating, heavy raking, or major repairs."

Once you've figured out the best time though, Ramos reveals you only really need to aerate your lawn once a year.

How many passes should you make with your lawn aerator

So, you're planning to aerate your lawn, but how many passes should you be making to get the best results?

According to Ramos, one or two passes should relieve soil compaction. In addition, choosing the right tool in the first place will have a major impact on how effective your lawn aeration is.

"There are two types of aerators. Spike Aerators: These tools create holes by pushing spikes into the soil," adds Ramos. "They're simple to use but might not be as effective on highly compacted soil.

"Plug Aerators: These remove small plugs of soil from your lawn, providing more lasting benefits by reducing compaction more effectively. They're generally the preferred option for most lawns."

Additional top tips

Lawn aeration alone isn't all you should be doing. As Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Technical Operations and Agronomy at TruGreen explains: "One of the biggest misconceptions in the industry is viewing aeration as a standalone service.

"The greatest results occur when aeration is intergrated into a comprehensive turf management program that includes proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation, and overseeding practices."

In fact, he suggests that if you're really looking for best practice when aerating your lawn, you should be "overseeding and fertilizing immediately after aerating to maximize growth.

It's also important to leave the soil cores on your lawn after aerating, as they will naturally break down and help recycle nutrients and other beneficial microorganisms."

So, while you can do an excellent job with your lawn aeration, timing it right and carrying out one or two passes until you're satisfied that you've relieved compaction, it's important to take the opportunity to do more for your lawn when it's at its most receptive.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to aerate a lawn and when to do it
• I asked gardening experts the secret to a greener lawn — here's what they want you to do
• 9 signs your lawn needs aerating

No one ever likes the thought of rats roaming their yard or property. And as temperatures drop this fall, rodents are actively searching for food and shelter—making your yard a prime target if left unprepared.

That’s why it’s crucial to ensure you don’t make your home inviting for such pests by removing the things in your yard that attract rats and mice to your space. The last thing you want is an infestation.

However, even if you maintain a clean and tidy yard, you could be missing one overlooked item. If you (or your neighbor) have fruit trees, you could be unknowingly inviting rats to feast in your yard.

Here’s why a pest expert urges homeowners to clear fallen fruit right now — and a few other top tips to be mindful of, too.

Clear fallen fruit often

Fruit-picking season might be over, but there could be a late crop that is still ripening or falling on the ground. And if left to pile up under the tree or lying around on your lawn, this is an open invitation for rats to feast on.

“Gardens can provide plenty of easy food sources, especially when fallen fruit is left lying around,” states Chris Bonnett, horticulturist and founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk.

“Fallen apples, pears, plums and other fruit can provide an easy source of food for rats, particularly when it is left on the ground to become overripe. Check underneath fruit trees regularly and collect fallen produce before it has a chance to build up.”

To prevent an infestation, be sure to clear fallen fruit from your yard frequently and either discard it or throw it in your compost bin — where you can repurpose it in your garden all year.

“A quick tidy-up every few days can make a big difference. Clear away fallen fruit, keep bird food contained, and make sure bins are properly secured to avoid giving rats any easy reasons to stick around.”

Top tips

Rats are relentless opportunists when it comes to food, and even tiny scraps of bird seed or pet food can quickly transform your yard into a rodent buffet.

“Bird feeders can unintentionally provide food for rats,” adds Bonnett. “Try to position them where spilled seed is less likely to build up, and give the area underneath a regular sweep. Avoid putting lots of food directly on the ground, as this can make it an easy target for rats.”

Other top tips include securing trash cans and maintaining your yard. Overgrown grass and weeds offer ideal hiding spots for rats, so keeping your lawn trimmed and pathways clear makes your outdoor space far less inviting.

“Keeping grass cut, weeds under control, and areas around sheds and paths clear can make your garden less appealing to them.”

So if you don’t want to invite rats for a backyard feast, be sure to clear that fallen fruit right now.

For more top tips, check out how to rat-proof your yard.

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Last October, I set up on my front lawn what I thought were two of the more ridiculous Halloween decorations: the 12-foot Home Depot Skelly and Lowe’s 20-foot inflatable skeleton. They were an instant hit with the kids, and in the end, Lowe’s won out, as it was easier to set up, and was simply more ridiculous for its size.

This year, both Lowe’s and Home Depot came out with animatronic oversized skeletons; Home Depot’s 12-foot version has a head that turns and a jaw that moves; you can even program custom phrases via a smartphone app. Lowe’s 15-foot skeleton — called the Watcher — holds its head above its body, rotates back and forth, beams lights out of its eyes, and also has a speaker with a bunch of spooky phrases.

Naturally, I wanted to see how these two teched-up decorations compared. The neighborhood children also couldn’t wait. Neither are cheap; Home Depot’s skeleton costs $379, while Lowe’s model is $429, yet as of this writing, both are selling out fast.

Storage and setup

The first thing to note is that while neither are small, the Lowe’s skeleton comes in a box about two-thirds the size of Home Depot’s — the latter measures 40 x 44 x 27 inches — something to consider if you have limited storage space.

Assembling Lowe’s skeleton was a more involved affair; the internal frame is made up of metal hoops running up each leg and the torso, which gives the skeleton its shape. Each hoop is held in place with cotter pins, and each part of the frame is secured with thumb screws. Suffice it to say, there’s a lot of really small pieces that could be easy to lose.

And, you also have to "dress" the skeleton with its gigantic overalls. I don't know that a farmer's getup is the outfit that's most going to instill fear in the hearts of trick-or-treaters, but here we are.

As you’re putting the whole thing together, you also have to attach a series of electrical connectors inside the body; they snap together easily enough, but there are more than a few of them. It took me a good hour or so to piece everything together. It’s also held in place by four guy strings, to keep it from toppling over.

Home Depot’s Skelly instructions are pretty much the same as its non-smart version. It’s a metal frame with plastic pieces covering it, and far fewer pieces than the Lowes model. The only real difference are the few wires that connect from its pelvis, up the spine, and to the head. Maybe it was my familiarity from last year’s model, or the fact that there are not as many parts, but assembly went much faster. I was done in about half an hour.

I assembled both skeletons myself, and while it’s not advisable, it’s doable. The trickiest part is lifting the whole thing in the air. There was a moment or two with each that I thought it would topple right over.

Animatronics

Both models have motion sensors, so you can set them to activate only when someone approaches your house. The sensors are sensitive enough to detect motion up to 20 feet away; I found that traffic driving by my house would trigger the Home Depot skeleton, which became annoying after a while.

The upper torso, arms, and head of the Lowe’s skeleton rotate back and forth, and its eyes beam two rays of light that were bright enough to illuminate my sidewalk some 20 feet away. As it moves, it also runs through several pre-set sayings. Hidden inside the left leg is a large control box, where you can adjust the volume and even connect a larger speaker, should you choose.

Home Depot’s Skelly is a bit more, well, animated. Its head moves back and forth and its jaw moves up and down in sync with whatever it’s saying.

You have to download an app to customize what the Home Depot Skelly says. You then have to press a button on its underside (which feels a little dirty) to put it in Bluetooth mode. Only then can you connect it with the app. However, you then have to switch it out of Bluetooth mode if you want it to do its thing.

Recordings can be up to 30 seconds in length, and not only can you control what it says, but you can also customize the chest and eye lights. What it says is only limited by your imagination. We had the most fun when we recorded our daughter. The sight of a 12-foot-tall skeleton threatening doom in a small child’s voice is hilarious.

I even got it to “sing” the Philadelphia Eagles fight song, which no doubt rankled my Giants-loving neighbors.

Which was the most spooktacular?

Ultimately, Home Depot’s 12-foot Skelly won this year’s faceoff. I found it easier to set up, and, despite a little wonkiness with its app, the ability to have it say anything you want really adds something special. It also happens to be $50 less than Lowe’s model.

You can’t go wrong with either skeleton. There’s something sublimely ridiculous about a massive decoration in your yard, especially for Halloween. But, being able to customize the Home Depot Skelly to make it truly frightening or funny made it the real winner.

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My lawn is a colorful mix of yellow, gold, and russet tones, draped in a thick layer of fallen leaves from my trees. And while I’m tempted to grab my garden rake and clear them up so I can see my lawn again, an expert urges gardeners to think twice before clearing them away.

Instead of raking my leaves into piles and tossing them in the garden trash, Craig Wilson, co-founder and garden expert at Gardeners Dream, shares how to reuse them to prevent weeds.

A free weed suppressant

Rather than discarding fallen leaves, Wilson recommends shredding them into a natural mulch to place around plants to suppress weeds.

So what's the best way to shred leaves? Wilson explains, “Allow dry leaves to build up, then run over them with a lawnmower to shred them into smaller pieces.

I tend to place leaves on my beds without shredding them first, so I asked Wilson why he recommends breaking them down.

“Shredding them first helps the leaves break down more easily and reduces the risk of whole leaves forming a thick, compacted layer,” he explains.

And he adds, “The smaller pieces are easier to spread around flower beds and established plants and will generally break down more readily than whole leaves.”

Top tip

If you shred leaves with a lawnmower, make sure you’ve left them to dry out before mowing over them—it will help you cut through them effectively.

Leaves are much more than a weed suppressant

Beyond forming a layer to suppress weeds, Wilson also shares how fallen leaves can boost your soil. He explains they “help to retain moisture and regulate an appropriate temperature for the season.”

So instead of thinking of fallen leaves as garden waste, he says gardeners should see them as a free resource they can return to the soil.

3 mistakes to avoid with fallen leaves

1. Don't leave thick layers on your lawn

While shredded leaves can benefit flower beds, don’t let whole, wet leaves sit heavily on your lawn.

Wilson says, “A thick covering can block light and air from reaching the grass, so rake or remove them regularly.”

Apart from blocking photosynthesis and discouraging lush green grass, heavy layers of leaves trap moisture, encouraging snow mold and root rot. What’s more, a lack of oxygen and nutrients weakens the roots, and your lawn may start to turn yellow, with bare patches appearing. A damaged lawn also takes longer to recover when the warm weather returns.

2. Not removing diseased leaves

Wilson warns that you shouldn’t put every fallen leaf back into the garden. “If leaves are showing obvious signs of disease, it is better to remove and dispose of them appropriately rather than spreading them around your flower beds.”

Removing diseased leaves can help reduce the risk of carrying problems into the following growing season.

3. Being too tidy

I’m a tidy gardener, but Wilson warns against being too precise with your yard in fall. “It’s tempting to completely clear the garden before winter, but you don't need to remove every piece of natural debris. In suitable areas, leaving some leaves, stems and other plant material undisturbed can provide shelter for wildlife over the colder months.”

He says the key is to be selective with how much you tidy, “Keep your lawns and paths clear and make use of healthy leaves as mulch, and leave suitable, less-formal areas a little more natural to create that magical fall feeling.”

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• 3 essential fall jobs to protect young trees before the first cold snap
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month
• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring

While mature trees easily weather winter storms, young trees with undeveloped root systems are incredibly vulnerable to freezing temperatures and drying winds. Failing to prepare them before the ground freezes can lead to severe frost damage, root desiccation, or bark girdling that permanently kills the tree.

Proactive winterization doesn't require complex landscaping — just three deliberate fall steps focused on hydration, insulation, and physical defense before the first cold snap hits.

How to winterize young trees

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• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring
• Why your tomatoes aren’t turning red — and the simple pruning fix gardeners miss
• How to prepare fruit trees for winter — 7 expert tips

Fall is definitely underway, and the changing colors have to be everyone's favorite marker of the season. Crisp brown leaves are beginning to drift down from the trees on my street, and yesterday two greedy pigeons almost got into a fight over the juicy orange berries on my pyracantha bush.

So the season is ripe for a fall-themed picture quiz, featuring 10 of the most spectacular trees, plants and flowers of the season. How many can you name from the photos? If you can score 10/10, you have my hearty permission to go on a gardening spending spree to celebrate!

How did you do? Too hard? Too easy? Got too lost in the amazing photos? Let us know what you think in the comments below. I love to hear from you and welcome all constructive feedback. And as a keen gardener who needs no encouragement to buy more plants, I'd also love to hear your favorite fall flower. Mine have to be dahlias.

If you enjoyed this quiz, then check out our other puzzles and quizzes. And don't forget to register to save your score, reveal hints for any clues you're not sure of (though I'm sure you won't need that) and secure your spot on the competitive Tom's Guide leaderboard.

Also visit our Polls page to have your say on all manner of topics, from workout kit to the latest Apple releases. Your answers may even be featured in a Readers Say article.

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Fall is officially here, and upcoming heavy rain and gusty winds can often take their toll on our tidy yards. This is especially true if you’re growing beautiful flowers and plants or have a tasty vegetable garden.

Luckily, there are a few essential tasks you can do right now to prepare your yard for harsh weather. By acting fast, you can protect plants from unexpected early frosts and also protect your yard from the risk of weather damage.

Since October is a time of transition, taking these simple, expert-approved tips will help you prepare for shifting weather ahead of time.

Here are the tasks you need to do right now that can make all the difference this season.

Rake fallen leaves

If, like me, you’ve already spotted fallen leaves piling up in your yard or around plants. The first task is to rake these up immediately and add them to your compost heap.

“You’ll likely start to see fallen leaves gathering in your garden or in other areas of your property,” states Craig Wilson, Co-founder and in-house gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

“Rake these up and store them in a compost bin. You can then use the leaf mould as mulch to insulate borders.”

In addition, the task of insulating your borders now will protect the plant roots from unexpected early frost before winter arrives.

“Once you have cleaned up and tidied your borders, you’ll want to think about getting them insulated before the first frost sets in. Use bark, manure or leaf mould to spread across the top of the soil to help insulate root systems.”

For more tips on what to do with your leaves, check out 7 ways to use fallen leaves in your garden.

Make sure storage is watertight

Torrential rain and fierce winds have already swept over the East Coast this weekend causing power outages, significant flooding and damaging winds.

Before you have to deal with serious damage (or expensive repairs), ensure that your outdoor storage is all watertight to avoid the risk of leaks seeping in and potential flooding.

“As rainfall increases, you’ll want to ensure that any storage, such as your shed, is fully waterproof to avoid any damage to tools and furniture you might be storing in there over the winter,” adds Wilson.

And the last thing you need is a shed full of tools made rusty, or even destroyed, from water damage.

For top tips, check out how to waterproof your shed — expert tips for winter protection.

Move tomato plants indoors and raise harvest

If you’re growing tomatoes or other edibles in pots outdoors, now is the best time to move plants indoors. This is especially important if you want to protect your harvest before the first frost.

“As the temperatures start to drop, it is time to move any tomato and pepper plants indoors to ripen,” states Wilson.

What’s more, if you’re planning some pumpkin treats just in time for Halloween season, be sure to raise pumpkins and harvest them off the ground.

“If you're hoping to harvest some pumpkins for Halloween carving or even autumn decor, make sure to get them raised off the ground and onto bricks or wood.

"This will keep them dry, which will decrease the chances of rot, and will also allow them to get some additional sunlight, which will help to firm up the skin.”

“You’ll also need to keep an eye on the weather forecast. Pumpkins go soft quickly when left outside in frosty weather, so ensure that if frost is due, you harvest your pumpkins beforehand.”

And if you’re worried about pests attacking your pumpkins, I've just discovered the easiest way to stop your pumpkins from rotting.

Your lawn will also benefit from some maintenance in October, here are 7 lawn care tasks to complete this month. Also, don’t wait until spring; here are 3 plants to give your yard an instant fall vibe.

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Ask around any plot come autumn, and you'll find two types of growers: those harvesting bowls of sweet red fruit, and those staring at vines heavy with stubbornly green tomatoes as the first frost looms. If you belong to the second group, don't panic.

Many assume late-season tomatoes just need more sunshine or extra time. In reality, tomato ripening is controlled by a specific biological trigger — and with one simple pruning technique, you can trick the plant into turning those green fruits bright red before cold weather shuts everything down.

Why aren't my tomatoes turning red?

To understand why tomatoes refuse to turn red early fall, you have to look at the pigments inside the fruit. Tomatoes rely on two primary compounds for color: carotene, which creates yellow and orange tones, and lycopene, which provides that rich, classic red.

The production of lycopene relies heavily on ambient temperature. Tomato plants actively synthesize lycopene within a specific thermal window — ideally between 68°F and 77°F (20°C to 25°C).

When temperatures climb above 85°F (29°C) during late-summer heatwaves, or dip below 55°F (13°C) as autumn nights cool down, lycopene production halts entirely.

The plant then enters a state of pigment paralysis. The fruit is mature, but the chemical switch required to turn it red is locked. Sunlight actually has very little to do with this phase; heat and internal plant hormones drive the entire process.

The 3-minute pruning fix to force ripening

When fall temperatures drop, force your plant into emergency survival mode to redirect its energy into existing fruit. Start by snipping off the main growing tip at the top of the plant to stop vertical growth.

Next, strip away all open flowers, tiny buds, and marble-sized fruit, as these only drain valuable sugars. Finally, sink a trowel into the soil six inches from the main stem on two sides to sever a few outer roots. This controlled stress triggers a surge of ethylene, forcing full-sized green tomatoes to turn red rapidly.

When to bring green tomatoes indoors

Keep fruit on the vine as long as nighttime lows stay above 50°F (10°C) for the best flavor, using frost cloth to protect against brief cold snaps. Once nights drop below 50°F or a hard frost looms, harvest all full-sized fruit immediately.

Skip the sunny windowsill as direct light bakes the skin and rots the fruit. Instead, place tomatoes in a single layer inside a cardboard box in a warm, dark room, and throw in a ripe banana or apple to concentrate ethylene gas and speed up ripening within a week or two.

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As nighttime temperatures begin to drop, your lawn is preparing for its winter shutdown. But while established grass is slowing down, early fall actually presents the single best window of the entire year to grow new, thick turf fast.

If you want a lush, green carpet ready for spring, understanding when grass goes dormant, and taking advantage of the crucial weeks right before it happens, is the secret to success.

Here is when your lawn enters winter dormancy, why September and early October are ideal for overseeding, and how to accelerate grass growth before the first frost arrives.

When does grass go dormant?

Grass doesn't die when cold weather arrives. It simply enters a protective state called dormancy to conserve energy and survive freezing temperatures.

For most cool-season grasses (like perennial ryegrass and fine fescues), dormancy is triggered when daytime air temperatures consistently drop below 50°F (10°C) and soil temperatures fall below 46°F (8°C).

As your lawn prepares to sleep for the winter, the shift doesn't happen overnight. Here’s what you’ll see as your grass slips into dormancy:

• Early fall: Blade growth stalls as daily temperatures drop into the 50s. You’ll notice you don’t need to mow nearly as often.
• Late fall: Your lawn loses its bright summer luster and fades slightly as energy retreats from the blades and channels into the root system.
• First hard freeze: Once soil temperatures dip below 41°F (5°C), the grass shuts down completely, holding its ground until warmer weather returns in spring.

Why fall is the golden window to overseed your lawn

Because grass goes dormant in winter, many homeowners assume lawn care ends in late summer. In reality, the weeks leading up to winter dormancy are prime time for overseeding — spreading fresh grass seed directly over an existing lawn to repair tired, bare patches.

Timing this job for early fall yields vastly better results than waiting until spring. Summer's leftover heat stays trapped in the soil to jumpstart rapid germination, while the crisp autumn air keeps delicate tender seedlings from drying out.

Throw in predictable fall rain to handle the watering for you and a seasonal decline in weed growth, and your new grass gets a clear runway to establish deep, sturdy roots completely unbothered by spring weeds.

How to force root growth before grass goes dormant

If you want new seed to establish strong roots, timing is everything. For cool-season grasses, the ideal window is when soil temperatures are between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C). Once soil temperatures drop below the 50°F (10°C) baseline, germination slows drastically or stops entirely.

Also, when consistent fall air temperatures fall to 45°F (7°C), the grass will trigger winter dormancy, leaving late-planted seeds unable to develop the root system needed to survive the winter. Follow the four steps below to guarantee rapid germination and establishment.

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Fall may be officially here, but that doesn’t mean your lawn care duties need to take a back seat. There are a few key things we need to do to protect our grass and keep it healthy and lush year-round.

A lawn care expert reveals the early signs of a critical infestation to look out for and how to deal with this invasive pest — leatherjackets.

This is because September marks the peak egg-laying season for crane flies, which eventually hatch into leatherjackets — which are every gardener’s nightmare.

Not only do these destructive pests thrive by feeding on grass roots and plants, but they can also leave your once-pristine lawn severely damaged.

“Right now, those eggs are just sitting below the surface, waiting for cold and wet conditions to hatch into leatherjackets,” states Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“Although small, these grubs can be a nightmare for your lawn. An infestation can undo all the hard work you’ve put in and leave you with nothing.”

Luckily, there is one task you can do in September to prevent a ‘nightmare’ infestation right now. Here’s how to tackle this issue.

What are leatherjackets and what to look out for?

While the name doesn’t sound like a destructive garden pest, what exactly are leatherjackets (also known as lawn grubs)?

Essentially, these are adult crane flies that lay eggs in the lawn from late summer to October.

Once these eggs hatch into leatherjackets, they live just beneath the soil surface and feed on grass roots once colder weather sets in.

“These pests are legless grubs with tough, leathery skin, typically grey or brown in colour, and can grow up to 3cm in length,” adds Davis. “They thrive by eating the roots of grass and plants, killing their food source as they go. Once eggs hatch, leatherjackets spend the colder months feeding underground before the damage becomes visible in early spring.”

Since these destructive pests live under the soil, we won’t notice the problem until months later. Key warning signs to look out for include grass turning yellow or noticeable patches on the lawn.

While there is no way to stop crane flies from laying their eggs, you can prevent the damage once eggs hatch.

Aerate your lawn to prevent leatherjackets

One top tip is to address poor drainage in your garden by aerating your lawn.

Not only does this avoid waterlogging, but promotes healthy airflow and helps to deliver essential nutrients directly into the ground.

“Lawns with poor drainage create a perfect environment for leatherjackets to thrive, so addressing that now can prevent an infestation taking hold,” advises Davis.

“Aerating your lawn can help improve drainage. To do this, simply create holes in the turf to allow it to breathe and encourage water to disperse.”

Also, heavily shaded gardens can create the perfect environment for leatherjackets. Another tip is to prune overgrown or thick tree branches and clear fallen leaves or any other debris on the lawn.

“Removing thick branches of overhanging trees and bushes can help more sunlight reach the turf,” Davis advises. “Some soils are better than others for drainage. For example, nutrient-dense clay soils can make gardens more prone to flooding.

“And if you often see water pooling in your garden, investigate the type of soil so you know how to nurture the lawn correctly.”

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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Spotted spongy green growth across your patio or driveway recently? You’ll want to get rid of moss quickly. And while moss might be welcome in certain parts of your yard (think Japanese garden), for the most part, it can look unsightly on our patio. Plus, it's a nuisance to remove from concrete or banish completely — especially during fall.

Typically, moss thrives in damp or humid conditions — and porous concrete is the perfect environment as it holds water easily. In addition, concrete’s texture has microscopic pores, pits, and cracks, which makes it easy for spores to penetrate and grow in these rough spots.

And while you could reach for chemical-laden treatments or blast it away with a powerful pressure washer, I’ve just discovered a common household cleaning staple that does the trick — and no, it isn’t white vinegar.

Unlike white vinegar, which is great for killing moss but is a longer process, this cleaning solution can get to work in just minutes. Best of all, we all have this product in our cleaning caddy. So why is bleach so handy?

How to banish moss with bleach

We often use bleach for killing germs, disinfecting surfaces, and getting rid of yellow stains. However, it turns out that this versatile cleaner can instantly banish moss from concrete too.

Even better, it acts fast to tackle moss in just five minutes, and the results are known to last longer in comparison to traditional vinegar methods.

So what’s the best way to use bleach on concrete patios or paths? First, sweep away any debris or leaves on the concrete surface with a bristle broom/brush before applying your treatment.

Next, experts recommend diluting one part household bleach with four to ten parts water (depending on how thick the moss is) in a pump sprayer or bucket.

Then, directly spray or pour the mixture evenly over the moss-covered concrete, before letting it sit for about 15 minutes.

Once the moss turns brown or white, simply use your stiff-bristled broom or deck brush to scrub away the dead moss, and rinse off the residue/area completely with water until clean.

What NOT to do when using bleach

Since bleach has the power to kill moss, it’s important not to spray any nearby plants or foliage. If you do, however, experts recommend watering them before wrapping them in plastic wrap to protect them from damage.

Additionally, do NOT leave bleach on the concrete surface for more than around 15 minutes, or else it may cause discoloration to the pavers. Bear in mind that bleach is highly toxic, so take precautions when using it and keep it away from children or pets. And use gloves when handling bleach if possible.

So, if you’re struggling to banish pesky moss fast, this clever tip might be sitting right inside your cleaning caddy.

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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Discovering unexpected holes peppered across your lawn or garden beds can spark an immediate urge to reach for a shovel or garden hose. Before you attempt to fill them in, it helps to know what creature actually dug them — and what might be resting inside.

While homeowners might assume snakes dig tunnels across the yard, most snakes lack the physical equipment to burrow through dirt. Instead, they operate as opportunistic squatters, moving directly into underground tunnels left behind by rodents, voles, and chipmunks.

These cool subterranean spaces offer ideal shelter from heat and a hunting ground for prey. Knowing how to identify an active snake hideout can help you keep your family, pets, and property safe without unnecessarily disturbing local wildlife.

How to identify a snake hole in your yard

Because snakes do not excavate their own homes, you will not find a standard shape or uniform size. However, several distinct physical indicators can help you determine whether a snake is utilizing an existing burrow.

• Size and structure: Look for openings between 1 and 3 inches in diameter, though larger snakes can squeeze into bigger gaps. Pay close attention to crevices near rock walls, house foundations, and dense shrubbery.
  
• Lack of excavated dirt: Unlike active mammals that push fresh, loose dirt around their entrance holes while digging, a snake moving into a hole leaves no fresh soil piles.
  
• Nearby physical evidence: Check the surrounding grass and dirt for shed snake skins, smooth tail tracks in soft soil, or a complete absence of recent animal gnaw marks near the entrance.
  
• The "vacant" look: If a hole looks old or abandoned by the original rodent digger, it becomes a prime candidate for a snake seeking temperature control or shelter.

What to do if you find a snake hole

If you suspect a hole in your yard is currently harboring a snake, taking the wrong action can quickly turn a peaceful coexistence into a safety hazard.

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Fall has arrived, making September and November the perfect window for mulching flower beds to protect plants before the cooler temperatures set in.

As a thin layer of organic matter on the surface, a natural mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, introduces nutrients as it breaks down, and protects from frost when the temperature drops. Although mulching your yard seems easy enough, there’s one common problem many gardeners face afterwards that ruins their hard efforts.

Typically, after a week, unwanted grass blades begin creeping back through your bed cover until the area starts looking untidy again. And while a traditional solution would be to lay down landscaping fabric, this can often make planting new crops tricky and difficult to remove in the long run.

I’ve recently discovered a hassle-free tip to keep unwanted grass out of mulch beds. Not only does this solution work in just one hour, but it’s completely family and pet-friendly without harming nearby plants.

Use a targeted grass and weed killer to protect your beds

A quick trick is to use a grass and weed killer after mulching — but this will only work on young, newly sprouted grass blades coming through the mulch.

Once grass has matured, the spray may not be as effective at getting to work on thick grass — which might benefit from manual tools.

There are several sprays available in your gardening centers or online such as this Spruce Weed & Grass Killer for $35 on Amazon.

This spray kit is formulated from water, essential oils, and a surfactant, and can treat up to 400 weeds. Better still, it promises to work in just an hour, and the reusable bottle means you can simply buy refills instead of a new kit.

Additionally, gardening experts suggest pruning nearby foliage before applying such treatments. Trimming these surrounding stems beforehand allows for a much clearer path to target rogue shoots at their base.

Lastly, it helps to identify the exact location where grass blades keep growing, so you can apply a targeted treatment — ensuring stray growth stays out of your beds for good.

Bear in mind that this solution will only prevent the growth of young weeds and won’t tackle mature ones. If that’s the case, you’ll need to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

Of course, if you don’t want to rely on chemicals to get rid of grass and weeds in your yard, you can check out these 7 ways to kill weeds naturally. Or perhaps you might have this 39-cent weed killer alternative hiding in your laundry cupboard?

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If there is one gardening task that always feels like a chore, it’s dealing with relentless weeds.

No matter where you look — from the lush grass to the gravel paths, these just seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while there are various weed-killing remedies, I’ve always relied on my handy string trimmer to quickly rip away visible weeds before tackling the taproots.

However, it turns out that I could be making my weed problem worse — but only if used at the wrong time.

According to experts, using your string trimmer incorrectly might multiply those pesky weeds, leaving you with even more to clear. This is because mature weeds can spread themselves (through their seeds), depending on the species you’re up against.

So essentially, running your trimmer over mature, seed-filled weed heads will risk scattering them across your entire yard, and doubling your chore.

Luckily, there is a way to use your trimmer without making your weed problem worse. Here’s why.

Be sure to use your strimmer before weeds produce seeds

Experts agree that the least risky time to use it is before the weeds in your yard have full seeds.

In addition to preventing seeds from scattering across your yard, tackling young weeds early will reduce the chance of persistent garden invaders returning and ruining it.

Perhaps one caveat is that not all weeds are made to be equal, which can be problematic if you don’t know exactly which type of weed you’re dealing with.

Typically, summer annual varieties like crabgrass usually produce seeds mid-to-late season. While winter annuals such as shepherd's purse release seed heads in early summer — which will leave you tackling these invaders straight through spring.

So what’s the best course of action if you don’t know which specific weeds are taking over your yard? Experts advise you to simply use your trimmer regularly throughout the spring and summer to prevent seeds from developing and spreading.

Alternatively, if you miss that crucial window, experts suggest carefully slipping a bag right over mature seed heads before pulling them out by hand.

Of course, for true removal of stubborn weeds, you’ll have to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf. “This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels.

So before powering up your go-to string trimmer to slice through lawn weeds, ensure you tackle them before seed production. The last thing you need is extra yard work later on.

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Now that the heatwave is over and the new season begins — our grass might be looking a little worse for wear. This is especially the case if you’ve ended up with a patchy brown lawn that needs some TLC.

What’s more, you’ll want lush, healthy grass all year round by maintaining a good lawn care routine. So how can you revive your patchy lawn after the drought?

Luckily, a lawn expert has revealed that September is the ideal time to begin sowing new seeds — but this only works if you do one vital task before you start. In fact, it’s one of the simplest things that we often forget to do and will make all the difference to the results of our hard efforts.

So, before you start sprinkling your bag of grass seeds, don’t forget to do this one crucial check first.

Check the weather forecast

Since fall weather is so unpredictable, experts suggest you always check your local forecast before seeding, as these conditions can easily ruin germination.

“September is the best time to sow new grass seed, but it’s so important to check the forecast, identifying the temperature and rainfall trends,” advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

“The new seeds will need around two weeks of stable conditions to germinate and establish their first roots; severe weather changes can interrupt the process and leave seeds vulnerable.”

Additionally, you’ll need to get the right balance and ensure the conditions are not too dry or too cold. Both of which can stall the development of your grass seeds, leading to a costly failure where they simply die.

“It only takes a minute, but missing this step could result in a whole bag of seed being wasted,” adds McIIroy. “The soil needs to remain 50°F or above, and you need some rainfall, any frosty nights could interrupt germination.

“If drought conditions continue, grass seed will shrivel and die before it has a chance to germinate. But equally, too much rain can waterlog soil and drown seeds. Not checking the forecast can be a costly mistake, especially when starting a new lawn from scratch.”

However, a little patience will pay off. And he suggests it’s far better to hold out for the ideal environment rather than rushing and wasting your grass seed. Plus, after a parched summer, your lawn must be truly ready for overseeding.

Top tips before seeding your lawn in September

First, you’ll need to remove any debris, tree branches, or dead vegetation to give your new grass the best starting chance.

Additionally, if you find that your grass is parched, you’ll need to know how to aerate your lawn to loosen the soil and allow air and all the nutrients it needs to thrive.

“The new seeds will need good seed-to-soil contact, and if your turf is dry and compacted, you need to scarify and aerate to loosen the soil, ensuring nutrients, air and water can flow easily through the turf,” advises McIlroy.

“Applying a layer of high-quality topsoil also provides an environment for new seeds to thrive in, and a fertiliser can also provide a nutrient boost.”

Another top tip is to get a starter fertilizer that can help to strengthen the young roots as they grow. “Starter fertilisers differ from regular lawn feeds,” McIIroy adds.

“They’re formulated with extra phosphorus to help young roots develop. When you’re sowing new seed, that early root growth is more important than the colour and length on top.

“While September is usually the best time to sow, but it can extend into October if the temperatures allow.”

For more tips and tricks, check out our ultimate lawn care guide for healthy, lush grass. Apart from sowing seed, September is also the ideal month to carry out other key lawn maintenance.

Lawncare essentials we love

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Between the summer heatwave and a strictly enforced watering restrictions, my yard didn't stand a chance. By late August, it looked like a doormat. Straw-like and baked dry — it was tempting to accept defeat and leave it till next year.

Then I caught myself and remembered: a brown lawn is usually just dormant and playing defense. As cool weather and seasonal rain roll in, fall offers the ultimate window for a full comeback. If you follow the right recovery plan.

If you want to transform your drought-damaged lawn into a lush, resilient yard before winter hits, here's what you need to do.

1. Aerate compacted soil

Heat and foot traffic compact soil throughout summer, restricting air and water movement to the root zone. Aeration removes small plugs of soil, opening pathways for water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the roots.

Fall aeration is particularly effective because the lawn recovers during its peak growing season. You can rent an aerator, hire a professional, or use a manual aerator or garden fork for smaller lawns.

Aerate when soil is moist but not waterlogged. This ensures the plugs pull cleanly without clogging. Leave the soil plugs on the lawn to break down naturally.

Aeration combined with deep watering dramatically improves recovery because water and nutrients now reach the roots more effectively.

2. Overseed bare patches and thin areas

Heat stress creates bare spots where grass dies back completely. Fall is ideal for overseeding because cooler temperatures and increased rainfall help new seeds germinate.

Start by lightly raking dead material out of bare patches. This removes the thatch layer and allows seeds to contact the soil.

Scatter new grass seed over thinned areas and keep the soil consistently moist until the grass establishes. The key here is consistency. Uneven watering disrupts germination, so check daily and water lightly if rain doesn't fall.

New grass filling in before winter means you'll have a fuller lawn by spring instead of waiting until next summer to see improvement.

3. Water deeply rather than frequently

A struggling lawn needs deep watering, not daily sprinkles. Short, frequent waterings encourage shallow roots that can't access moisture deep in the soil when drought returns

Deep watering forces roots to grow deeper, creating a stronger root system that supports the grass through stress.

Water once every few days, applying enough to soak six inches down. Early morning or late evening watering minimizes evaporation and reduces scorching risk.

You'll know you're watering deeply enough when moisture penetrates the soil without pooling on the surface.

4. Apply lawn fertilizer as growth resumes

Heat and drought deplete soil nutrients, leaving your grass unable to grow vigorously. Once temperatures cool and the grass begins active growth again, a quality slow-release fertilizer supports recovery.

Timing matters. Apply fertilizer only when the soil is moist and the grass is actively growing, not when conditions are still dry.

Follow application instructions carefully, as over-fertilizing can damage recovering grass. Slow-release formulas feed gradually, supporting consistent growth without shocking stressed plants.

The fertilizer replenishes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that heat stress depletes. Combined with improved watering and aeration, fertilizer helps your lawn shift from survival mode to genuine recovery and growth.

5. Strengthen roots with liquid seaweed

Liquid seaweed conditions soil while encouraging deeper root growth and improving nutrient uptake. Regular applications help grass recover faster from heat stress and build resilience against future droughts.

Seaweed provides trace minerals alongside growth-promoting compounds that strengthen the grass from the root level up.

Apply it every three to four weeks during the growing season. Healthier roots mean the grass retains moisture better, stays greener during dry periods, and recovers more quickly when conditions improve.

While this isn't a quick fix, this recovery plan builds long-term lawn health — laying the quiet groundwork now so come next spring, you'll have a lush lawn instead of staring at a sea of straw.

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Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher or simply enjoy the beauty of colorful hummingbirds in your backyard, you might benefit from having a nest to make your garden more inviting.

And since I love nothing more than watching beautiful birds hovering around, I’ve just found the perfect hummingbird house for my garden (who knew?).

The Hummingbird House at Amazon consists of three wooden nesting spots designed to accommodate their tiny 4-inch body size. It also provides shelter and warmth, and a groove on top offers food, making it the ideal home.

Not only can they live safely inside, away from predators, but these hummingbird nests will instantly spruce up your yard.

Here’s why I’ll be buying a few to create a hummingbird haven.

How to use a hummingbird house

Perhaps what caught my attention was just how beautiful these wooden nests look. And unlike traditional boxy bird feeders, they won’t look out of place with my garden style. Handcrafted from pine wood, these nests also have a natural aroma that’s known to entice more hummingbirds into your outdoor space — even better.

You simply hang these nests on a sturdy pole or tree and watch the hummingbirds flock to their resting spots. I also love the way it’s designed with a neat food storage and feeder at the top of the ‘house’ and a drainage hole at the bottom to ensure it’s kept clean.

Best of all, hummingbirds will love their homes, as it will provide a cozy and safe haven all year round!

Things not to feed hummingbirds

Similar to knowing how to feed birds in winter, it’s useful to know the right types of food to give to hummingbirds. These would need to be suited to their species, offering the nutritional value that they need.

Bread — While it’s tempting to feed scraps, bread has no nutritional value for birds and will only fill up their stomachs. This will prevent them from eating sufficient seeds and grains with more nutritional benefits.

Meat — Never add raw meat to the feeder as this can attract unwanted guests like rodents, cats or foxes. Plus, meat will spoil very quickly and can be fatal to birds.

Salt — Too much salt is toxic for birds and can affect their nervous system. This includes salted nuts or other heavily salted foodstuffs.

Household food scraps — These won’t be appealing to birds and will only attract rodents or foxes to the feeder. Plus, any food cooked in oil or garlic will be harmful to birds.

It's advisable to stick with a suitable bird food mix, or you could try this simple nectar recipe, which will attract hummingbirds to your yard.

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• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

It’s been a rough summer on our yards. Extended heatwaves and dry spells have left many gardens looking parched and depleted, and I’ve missed the abundance of color that I‘ve come to expect during peak season.

If the summer scorcher left you feeling depondent, don’t despair; fall offers a fresh start. September is the ideal time to rest, enrich your soil and get new plants in the ground. And with cooler temperatures on the horizon, your yard will soon be full of golden autumnal color.

Here are the top 5 plants I recommend adding to your yard this September for a rich kaleidoscope of fall hues.

1. Rudbeckia

Rudbeckias — commonly known as black-eyed Susans — bring an instant splash of bright color to a fall yard. Their golden petals and bold centers radiate a sunny disposition, making them a standout choice for fall color. Beyond their cheerful appearance, rudbeckias are low-maintenance plants and magnets for pollinators, too.

How to plant

Position in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, into well-draining soil. To extend the flowering period, deadhead the plants by pinching off the blooms at the base of the stem, or cut them back after they flower to encourage a second surge.

Rudbeckias are suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

2. Sedum

Sedums are a winner in the late summer and early fall, and if your garden has experienced a tough summer season of hot, dry weather, they are a firm survivor. The flowers are loved by bees and butterflies, and the beautiful seed heads remain stunning into winter.

How to plant

Choose a sunny spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day. If your soil is poor at draining, loosen the soil before planting and add sand, grit or perlite to encourage better drainage. Sedums shouldn’t need additional water, as their fleshy leaves store water, making them perfect for dry regions.

Sedums do well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

3. Heuchera

Heucheras are grown for their foliage, rather than their flowers, and they make a stunning statement at the front of a border. I love the bright hues of lime green heuchera, which won’t fail to add a vibrant pop of color to your fall garden, but if you prefer more rustic tones, you can opt for burgundy or russet foliage.

How to plant

Place the plant in rich, well-drained soil in a spot that receives 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, if you have heavy clay soil, amend it to improve drainage before planting. If planting multiples, place 1-2 feet apart.

Heucheras perform well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but do check the variety.

4. Japanese anemone

Japanese anemones have elegant flowers that will add a light touch and graceful movement to any garden. They will brighten any shady corner with their stunning blooms and create a striking visual contrast when planted with grasses. Even better, for low-maintenance gardeners, their sturdy stems rarely need staking, and they are generally free of pests and diseases. Plus, their late-season blooms provide a feast for pollinators.

How to plant

Plant in full sun to partial shade, and protect the foliage and blooms from afternoon sun in hot climates. Japanese anemones thrive in moist, fertile, well-draining soil, but don’t like soils that remain cold and wet during winter. The roots will benefit from a layer of mulch in late fall to protect them from frost.

Japanese anemones do well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but check your variety before planting.

5. Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses introduce texture and movement, catching the breeze, to give your garden a natural, relaxed feel. Their delicate seed heads add visual interest heading into late fall and winter, while their fine foliage softens hard landscaping and bold planting.

While many ornamental grasses turn golden brown in the fall, Pink Muhly Grass explodes into a cloudy haze of cotton-candy pink. For something a little more understated, you might prefer Japanese Forest Grass, with golden foliage that turns to copper and orange.

How to plant

Select a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day and well-draining soil — waterlogged earth will cause their roots to rot. Keep in mind that light requirements vary by species; for instance, Japanese Forest Grass prefers shade, so always check the plant label first.

Guidelines vary depending on which species and variety you pick, but most ornamental grasses will thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3 through to 9.

September is also the perfect time to divide perennials — giving you extra plants for free. And don't forget that September is a key month in the lawn care calendar.

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• 7 vegetable seeds to sow in September for bountiful fall harvests
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Back in 2024, not satisfied with sippy cups and coolboxes, outdoor gear manufacturer Yeti purchased Mystery Ranch, a well-established maker of load-bearing backpacks for the hunting, fire and tactical markets. One of the first fruits of that acquisition is the Yeti Skala hiking pack. Bearing many similarities to some of Mystery Ranch’s packs (only less ‘tactical’ and more lifestyle-y), the Skala range is designed for hikers needing packs for single- or multi-day hikes.

I’ve been using the Skala 32L day pack and the 50L multi-day pack for several months now. I’ve hiked with them, camped with them, travelled with them, flown with them, and even commuted with them. And I’m a huge fan. From the effortless weight distribution to the high levels of adjustability and capacious storage compartment, the Skala is an excellent choice for outdoorsing.

The Skala isn’t totally perfect: it’s kinda pricey and I wish it came with a cover given the bag itself isn’t fully waterproofed. But if you’re in the market for a new pack, I’d still highly recommend this one. Find out more in my full Yeti Skala review.

Yeti Skala review: Specs

Yeti Skala review: Price & availability

The Skala starts at $300 for the 32L day pack, rising to: $325 for the 40L; $375 for the 50L; and $400 for the 60L. This is fairly pricey given you can pick up a 65L North Face Terra 65 for $210 or a 65L Osprey Rook for $196 at the time of writing.

Both the Terra and Rook offer equivalent features to the Skala, while the Rook also comes with a waterproof cover. The Skala, meanwhile, offers an incredible amount of adjustability and customization. While pricey, I don’t think the MSRP is totally beyond the pale either, and if you’re a keen hiker then the Skala’s sheer level of adjustability (and therefore comfort) may happily justify the extra spend.

Each Skala variant is available in men’s and women’s variants, and in either S/M L/XL, to suit different body shapes. The packs are available in gray, blue and a seasonal color — venom green (men’s) and hot bloom pink (women’s) at the time of writing.

Yeti Skala review: Design & storage

The Skala boasts a huge number of design features intended for ease of use on the trail. The Y-shaped zipper — featured on some Mystery Ranch backpacks — is one of my favorite features. It makes the backpack easy to pack, but also makes it way quicker and less disruptive to find something at the bottom of the bag.

There are two drink pockets at the sides which use stretchy material to accommodate both small and large bottles. On the 50L and 60L packs, the side drink pockets are dual access, so you can slide a bottle in from the top or side — the latter is a lot easier to reach while walking.

All sizes have frontal pockets using the same stretchy material. On the 32L and 40L packs these pockets are primarily for general storage, although on the two larger packs they’re big enough to accommodate water bottles, too — on my 50L pack, I was able to fit a 1.2L Thermos flask, a 1.4L Nalgene and a 1L Nalgene in the front and side pockets, with a front pocket spare for a fourth bottle if I wanted. There’s a water bladder pouch inside, just like the North Face Terra and Osprey Rook, but no opening for running a tube outside the bag.

The Skala’s main compartment is extremely spacious, as it’s literally just an open storage bin. When you need to really fill the bag, adjustable straps on the side let the pack expand a little. You can then use the same straps to compress the bag back down — I found this useful when I flew with the Skala and needed to ensure it fit in the plane’s overhead compartments.

I tended to use the 32L pack for most trips, including short camps, hiking and travelling — it fit enough clothes and essentials for several days. For longer camps where I needed to pack cooking gear and sleeping stuff, the 50L was also plenty spacious for 2-3 days, and I’m not a light packer, so I’m sure you could stretch that further.

Unfortunately, there’s no real compartment division save a small pouch at the back, so everything will just be floating around in the pack, but that’s only an issue when using the day packs half full with fragile items in there, like laptops and cameras. This is normal for hiking backpacks.

There’s a spacious top pocket and two waistband pockets, which I found very useful for storing my quick-access items — sun cream, cleansing wipes, my passport, etc. The two larger sizes also have a sleeping bag pouch at the base, allowing you to fit a bag inside the pack. There are also webbing straps underneath for bigger bags or your sleeping mat.

The webbing above the front and side pockets is also very useful for carrying and fastening larger items, like tripods, poles, or snow picks. I made use of this to carry my Insta360 X6’s heavy duty selfie stick when out testing the camera for my review.

The Skala is water resistant but not waterproof. No waterproof cover is included, unlike the Osprey Rook. The 50L and 60L have an extra internal cover under the main opening for increased water and snow resistance. But if you’re going to be hiking in wet weather, I’d recommend taking a bag cover or packing your items in dry bags inside the Skala.

Most of the pack’s outer is made of water-resistant polyethylene, although the lid and base use reinforced TPU nylon for extra durability. My 32L Skala has taken the heaviest use, as I’ve used it for commuting. Although the base is scuffed, it’s showing no signs of serious wear.

Yeti Skala review: Comfort & performance

Almost every aspect of the Skala can be adjusted to fit precisely to your body. There’s a sternum strap which is adjustable up and down on both sides to help you best fit your chest. The yoke and frame are also adjustable so you can tailor the height of the pack perfectly relative to your neck and shoulders. There’s an adjustable waist strap, and straps all over the bag to tighten or loosen individual elements as required.

The result is a wonderfully comfortable backpack. When adjusted properly, the weight is distributed very effectively from your back and shoulders and channeled to your chest and waist, although primarily the latter. That means you can carry more for longer, as your hips are bearing most of the load. Walking and hiking up hills, even with the loaded 50L pack, was a cinch.

I also travelled with the 32L completely full on several occasions — it was often extremely heavy as they were partly stuffed with cameras, my laptop and other tech. The frame channeled all the weight down to my chest and hips, so I experienced no back or shoulder pain while walking. I also loved that the 32L, even when full, was still compact enough to go into overhead cabin storage on a flight to Copenhagen for a press trip.

I also commuted to work on my motorcycle using the 32L day pack. Believe me, on a motorcycle where you’re sat leaning forward, most backpacks start to hurt in under an hour. In fact, with my normal North Face day pack, I can feel circulation getting cut in my arms and hands after just 20 minutes. With the Skala’s phenomenal weight distribution, I’ve been able to ride with no issues whatsoever. I’d even consider using the Skala on short motorcycle tours — any fellow bikers will know that’s high praise indeed.

The Skala’s back and shoulder padding is extremely thick and comfortable, but also breathable. I like that Yeti has designed it to reduce contact, too. No matter how breathable, padding that touches your back always gets hot after a while. Naturally, you can adjust the padding height to find the best fit for you.

Yeti Skala review: Verdict

Admittedly, the Yeti Skala isn’t perfect. It’s pricier than rivals, and I really wish it came with either better waterproofing credentials or a cover. But the Skala has still become my go-to backpack, not just for hikes and camping, but literally everything. The 32L day pack in particular is ideal for everything from commutes to day trips and even multi-day vacations.

What makes this backpack so great are the weight-distributing features and supremely high level of adjustability. These let the Skala effectively spread almost the entire load of the pack to your hips, so you barely feel the weight on your back. Combined with the excellent build quality and ample storage, the Skala is going to be my workhorse for years to come — or rather, it's going to make me the workhorse!

I'm a total newbie when it comes to the benefits of solar panels, but I just got my first taste of free power after a weekend camping trip with the Jackery Explorer Solar Generator 2000 ($999 @ Amazon), and I'm hooked. Roughly the size of one of the best drink coolers (just a darn sight heavier), this portable power station gave me all the electricity I needed during 48 hours away from the grid and still had some left to spare.

If you've not yet taken the plunge on a solar generator then there are plenty of affordable alternatives to get you started, but I can't fault the usefulness of the Jackery Explorer and plan to make it a mainstay of future camping trips.

At a buck shy of a grand without the solar panels you’re going to want to accessorize it with, the Jackery Explorer 2000 is something of an upfront cost. Amazon sells the 200W panels for $429 each, so buying both together will set you back $1,428. The retailer is also is selling a bundle of the power station with two panels for $1,639 — which saves you a bit of cash if you want to double up. But leaving that aside, Jackery also has a range of different power stations with varying capacities at different price points. For example, the Jackery Explorer 500v2 is a more wallet-friendly $399 (discounted to $359 at time of writing).

These prices may give you reason to pause. But, like any form of renewable energy, it’s an investment rather than a sunk cost. For example, campsites in the UK will charge you anything between £5 and £15 extra per night for a pitch with an electrical hookup. So over the course of a three-day weekend, I could save up to £45 ($61) just by bringing the Jackery Explorer instead. If I do this three times over the summer, that’s up to £135 ($184) saved.

And even when I’m not using it for camping, like my colleague Tom, it’s providing additional power to my garage for free. Okay, so all that is a bit of an oversimplification, but Jackery’s batteries are slated to last up to 10 years with 80% remaining after 4,000 full charge cycles. So there’s a good chance that over the course of a decade, you’ll make your money back. Eventually.

What you get

I packed the Jackery Explorer 2000 into the car for a three-day trip during the height of summer. We were in the middle of a UK-wide heatwave, with temperatures sitting around 32°C (89.6°F) and just a few wispy clouds populating the sky. So, it was the perfect testing ground for a portable solar power station.

The Explorer weighs 39.5lbs (17.9kgs), which is impressive for the 2042Wh capacity but still prohibitive for carrying large distances — so keep that in mind if you park the car a long way from where you pitch camp. Jackery does say the Explorer 2000 is “41% lighter and 34% smaller than conventional 2kWh LiFePo4 portable power stations” as it uses the same CTB (Cell-to-Body) technology you’ll find in the best electric cars. There’s a very helpful carry handle, and I was able to bring it easily back and forth between the inside of my tent and the seating area we’d created to socialize.

I tend to travel light, so the only electronics I really needed to worry about were a pair of smartphones, a Bluetooth speaker, an electric kettle and a pump for inflating a mattress. The phones and speaker were serviced by the two USB-C ports (one 30W and one 100W) and one USB-A (18W) port, while the kettle plugged into one of the two AC 2,200W sockets on the front. High-wattage devices like that kettle are going to empty the battery quickly, but more on that later. My British model has two AC sockets, but the American version packs three — bonus points to Uncle Sam. Finally, the pump could be plugged into the DC 12 V input as if I was using my car’s cigarette lighter.

The controls on the Jackery Explorer 2000 are extremely simple to use. Hold down the power button for a few seconds to wake it up, and then the remaining buttons let you toggle between the AC and DC outputs. There’s also a built-in LED light with three modes: Low Light, High Light and SOS. Meanwhile, the LCD display tells you the current percentage, input/output power and your remaining charge time. It’s all remarkably simple to use, which is exactly what you want when you’re struggling to get a campsite set up in time for dinner.

How I used it

Over the course of two nights, I kept all the phones topped off and used the pump three times (I need a new air mattress) while I boiled the kettle at least six or seven times. At around 9pm, I switched on the LED light and kept it up for a couple of hours until it was bedtime at around 11pm.

I started the weekend with a full charge of 100% and when it was time to pack up and go home, I was down to 42%. I kept the Explorer 2000 topped up for a few hours here and there, but mostly I relied on the accumulated charge from the mains that I put into the battery before leaving the house.

As mentioned, the only real draw on the power was the kettle, which was pulling pretty much the full 2,200W output to run and easily dropping the battery down several percentage points each time I used it.

If you’re looking at a multi-day trip with energy-hungry devices like one of the best electric bikes or electric stoves, you’re going to run out of power far quicker than I did.

What’s more, I didn’t have anything like a fridge continuously running from the Explorer 2000 — I just pulled it out when required. If you’re powering a portable refrigerator at 90W, you can expect to get about 15 hours of runtime. My usage was relatively tame, but if you’re planning more adventurous multi-day trips, you’re going to need to get the most from your solar panels.

Charging: solar vs the mains

You don’t necessarily have to buy the official Jackery solar panels, but if you opt for a (cheaper) third-party option from Amazon, you’re going to need an adaptor. Jackery’s 200W solar panels connect via an included DC8020 solar charging cable that plugs directly into the side of the power station and it begins charging right away. A side note here is that it does so very quietly — if you get right down next to it, you can hear a faint whirr. But I’d bet the average hiker could leave this running next to them and fall asleep without being disturbed.

The good news is that, like the power station itself, the solar panel is extremely easy to use. All you need to do is unfold it, pull the kickstands away from their velcro fastening and connect them to the power station.

At a full 400W solar input from two panels, Jackery says you can charge the Explorer 2000 up in five-and-a-half hours. I, meanwhile, had only a single 100W panel with me. The good news was, as mentioned, it was a very sunny weekend, and I was easily able to get the full 100W input from the panel. Generally speaking, you get around four to six peak sun hours per day. At 100W, it'd take me around 20 hours to fully charge the power station, which probably equates to around four days of charging.

On the other hand, connecting it to the mains juices the power station from empty to full in just 1.7 hours. You can enable emergency charging via the Jackery app to cut that down even further to 1.33 hours — or from 0-80% in 52 minutes.

So, yes, solar is free, but it’s also time-consuming and heavily reliant on where you are. Despite this summer’s efforts, the U.K. is not known for sunshine, and if you’re staying somewhere with a lot of cloud cover or underneath foliage, this option won’t be as readily available to you. My advice would be to opt for a 200W solar panel if you can stretch to it, to maximise the amount of energy you can harvest when the sun does come out.

You’re always going to lose some energy through conversion and thermal dissipation when you’re pulling power from the sun. So you need to be mindful of not wasting the opportunity to power up when you can. The distinct benefit of having such a portable solution means it's not a chore to set up, even for an hour or so. I was able to get the panels out of the car and have the power station topping up (albeit slowly) in under thirty seconds.

One thing to add is that Jackery's panels are IP68 water and dust-resistant, so you don’t have to treat them with kid gloves during a weekend in the wilderness.

Final thoughts

There’s a lot more to the Jackery Explorer 2000 than I’ve gone into here. Things like the durability testing, the rigorous battery management system and the five-year warranty are all worthy of praise. But the main thing I found was that the system was reliable and easy to use for someone with almost no prior knowledge of portable power beyond the best battery packs you get for your phone.

That’s important because although it’s great to have portable power to keep your iPhone charged up on a camping trip, portable generators can go much further. When Hurricane Beryl knocked out power for my colleague Anthony Spadafora back in 2024, he was able to give his mother-in-law a portable generator to keep her freezer and lights running for awhile in the ensuing power outage. It may be 2026, but power outages are not a thing of the past and if you’ve got a device like the Jackery Explorer 2000 on hand, it gives you a measure of protection to keep vital services powered on.

And that’s an investment that’s worth making right now. Even if it spends most of the year keeping the Bluetooth speaker in your garage topped up.

More from Tom's Guide

• Expert reveals the one solar panel mistake costing you money — and how to fix it
• I just tested this portable solar panel to charge my phone — and it works a lot better than I thought
• 13 Coleman camping deals perfect for end of summer adventures — save up to 40% on tents, grills and more

I'm a mediocre cook. My girlfriend is a tremendous cook. Together, we spent a year testing the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 pellet grill and smoker to see whether it was the right tool for our outdoor cooking needs.

After more than 365 days of smoking, searing, rotisserie cooking and basic grilling, I can say with 100% confidence that this Recteq grill offers enough versatility to handle everything a seasoned grill master could throw at it, while still being easy enough for someone of my less-skilled nature to handle.

The versatility comes at a fairly high cost, but compared with other pellet-based grills from brands like Traeger and Weber, the price doesn't feel unreasonable.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Price and availability

The X-Fire Pro 825 is available from a wide range of high-end grill retailers, including directly from Recteq's website. It's $1550, which may sound shocking compared with a basic propane grill from your local hardware store, but it's very competitive with other big brands like Traeger and Weber.

You can also get the grill as part of a bundle. Two bundles are available, and one includes the rotisserie, which I highly recommend to complete the cooking experience this grill offers. It also comes with lots of accessories, sauces, rubs and pellets to get you started.

However you buy it, I think the price is right around what it should be for a grill of this caliber.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Design

The grill itself is built like a tank, so you don't need to worry about leaving it on your porch. And it's a good-looking grill, too.

Like many high-end grills on the market, this pellet model offers more precision and temperature control while delivering that smoky flavor. You can fit 20 pounds of pellets into the hopper, which is plenty to smoke those delicious meats for hours without needing to top off the grill.

The cast iron cooking surface is 840 square inches, so you can fit large items or a massive quantity of smaller grilled meats like chicken breasts, hot dogs or burgers.

The left side of the grill has basic controls and probe spots for tracking meat temperatures (it comes with two probes that also display the temperature in the app and alert you when your food reaches the target temperature).

Four knobs adorn the front of the grill (along with the cool horn-style handles)— there's the smoke and grill mode knob, the grill control options for the left and right burners, and the sear control knob, which opens up the fire to get that nice crust we all love on our grilled meats.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Cooking performance

I can't find anything wrong with the grilling performance of the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825. We used it for low-and-slow smoking at 225 degrees for food like chicken wings, candied bacon, ribs and just about anything else you can think of. My girlfriend smoked a turkey breast for Thanksgiving, and it gave me a brand new respect for how good turkey can be.

Using the app and connected features makes smoking incredibly easy. All you need to do is set the grill to your desired temperature, set the probe temperature and then go about your business (assuming you're not cooking something that requires turning). As I've said over and over, I'm not a good cook, but even I was able to smoke some quality food with the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825.

We also did high-temperature grilling with burgers, hot dogs and more basic grill fare, and everything was consistent and delicious. Like any grill, you won't simply set it and forget it, as you will need to watch for over-searing and burning, but that's part of the fun of being the grillmaster.

The optional rotisserie really shouldn't be optional. You can make some absolutely mind-blowing dishes with it as long as you're patient and willing to let the process happen. I've always loved rotisserie chicken, and being able to throw a bird on and make one at home has been a game-changer.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Living with it

So now we need to talk about what it's like to live with the X-Fire Pro 825 for a year. It's one thing to grill with it for a bit and then move on, but we've spent a full year with it as our only grill — we ditched our basic propane model in favor of this beast.

I learned a lot about grilling during this time; I still consider myself a poor chef, but the recipes in the Recteq app have helped tremendously. I feel comfortable making a variety of dishes, and my girlfriend can confidently make just about anything, though she doesn't follow the recipes as much.

Cleaning the grill isn't overly difficult, but it is a process that you need to do to keep the grill running at its best. Since you're burning pellets and not just running propane, there's some buildup that needs to be taken care of every so often. Most importantly, as I've learned through experience, is emptying the fire pots regularly. Recteq recommends cleaning the cooking surface with a brush after every cook, and I tried to stay on top of this, but there were definitely times I didn't, and it hasn't had any long-term negative effects yet.

Overall, it's been a great year. I really like the X-Fire Pro 825, and I'm proud to have it as my only grill (besides my Ooni pizza oven, but that's another story). We've had large gatherings with more than 50 people and had no issues with having enough space to keep everyone fed and happy.

I did have one instance where the grill ran out of pellets, and the temperature dropped. For whatever reason, I didn't get a notification that the grill's heat levels were dropping, which the app usually does. If this happened often, I'd be concerned, but since it only happened once, I have to assume there was some user error (maybe I missed the notification or accidentally turned on Do Not Disturb).

After that, I purposely let the grill run out of pellets to see whether it would alert me that the temperature was dropping, and it did so without issue.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Verdict

I love almost everything about the X-Fire Pro 825. Recteq seems to have thought of everything before putting this grill out. The seamless smart features that let you track the grill and food temperature are easy to use, and they make cooking foods that take several hours much easier (smoking, as delicious as it is, tests one's patience).

While I wish I could see the temperature in grill mode (if for nothing else than to brag to my guests about my grill hitting 1,250 degrees, that gripe hardly keeps me from recommending this grill to anyone who will listen. I also wish Rectec sold a pizza accessory for this specific model (the company's pizza kit supports the Deck Boss, Backyard Beast, Flagship, Flagship XL, BFG, RT590, RT1070 and RT1250; the X-Fire Pro 825 isn't on the list), but that's a pretty minor gripe as this is meant to be a grill and not take the place of one of the best pizza ovens.

Simply put, if you want a flexible pellet grill that can smoke and cook at ultra-high temperatures (and why wouldn't you want that?), this is the one to buy. Sure, Recteq doesn't get as much hype as Traeger and the other premium brands, but the people who know about the quality the brand offers are fully on board, and I'm now happily among that crowd.

Hummingbirds are among the most popular wildlife species that visit our yards; they are beautiful. That’s why I wanted to discover if hummingbirds will keep coming back to the same spot year after year, and if so, how we can make their survival easier.

I posed the question to Bob Mulvihill, lead ornithologist at the National Aviary, to learn more about hummingbirds’ behavior.

Hummingbird's are creatures of habit

“Like many migratory birds, hummingbirds navigate to the same spots each year for breeding and wintering,” explains Mulvihill.

“Banding studies prove that some hummingbirds even find their way to the same rest spot along the migratory route.”

And it turns out that hummingbirds have excellent spatial memories, which is why they can return year after year.

For us, this means that if you welcomed hummingbirds into your backyard last year, it’s highly likely that the same birds will appear this year. Hummingbirds are creatures of habit.

“People often report seeing hummingbirds in early spring hovering at the exact spot where the hummingbird feeder hung the year before,” says Mulvihill.

So what happens if you change your habits? Fortunately, it won’t throw the birds off course.

Mulvihill explains that if you decide to move your hummingbird feeder, or even if a person has moved on and there’s no longer a feeder around, it won’t cause much distress.

Hummingbirds find feeders easy to spot.

It seems that if you do move your feeder to another place in your backyard, your regular visitors will still be able to find it. The bright color makes it easy to identify.

Mulvihill explains, “Because the color red is so attention-getting — especially against a spring or summer green background — hummingbirds have an easy time finding feeders and flowers wherever they may be, and wherever they may pop up tomorrow!”

3 ways to make life easier for hummingbirds

Although Mulvihill says hummingbirds won’t be put out if the previous hummingbird feeder they relied upon for nectar has been moved, there are steps you can take to improve the life and well-being of these tiny creatures.

1. Keep them fed and watered

“Hummingbirds will benefit greatly if everyone would provide flowers and clean feeders filled with fresh sugar and water from spring through to fall, and, if possible, a source of flowing or misting water for them, too,” he advises.

You can make your own hummingbird nectar using a simple water-and-sugar combo, mixing one part sugar with four parts water.

The nectar can be added to a hummingbird feeder, and if you want to catch them in action, you could invest in a smart hummingbird feeder. However, a standard red feeder with yellow nectar ports that replicate a flower is ideal.

Don’t forget about the power of plants. Aside from providing sugared water, hummingbirds will flock to your yard if it’s planted with nectar-rich flowers, like the cup and saucer vine.

Apart from providing calorie-rich nectar, hummingbirds will welcome a regular source of water. They particularly like misting devices, as traditional bird baths are too deep for their tiny frames. The fine spray will help them stay hydrated and act as a shower to keep their feathers clean and their bodies cool.

2. Avoid window collisions

Hummingbirds are frequent victims of bird-window collisions, so to help them spot a window before it’s too late, Mulvihull recommends making your window panes bird-safe.

One way to prevent hummingbirds from cascading into your windows is to add barriers or marks to your glazing. The International Hummingbird Society, suggests adding lines or shapes, which are at least 1/4inch wide in light or high-contrast colors. And it recommends spacing them no more than two inches apart horizontally or 4 inches apart vertically.

You might also want to try opaque window film, such as the Collidescape white bird film, $29 at Amazon.

Finding the ideal spot for your hummingbird feeders will also help. Mulvihull suggests positioning your feeder at least 25 feet away from any windows.

3. Be pet aware

Nesting season for hummingbirds, which varies by region, is a prime time for predators. So, if you own a pet, Mulvihull advises being extra vigilant during this time.

And he suggests keeping your cat restrained or indoors. Hummingbirds will avoid nesting in an area that’s patrolled by predators — and to them that includes your cat or dog.

Unlike other birds, hummingbirds won’t nest in birdhouses; instead, they build their nests in tree limbs and on other horizontal surfaces. The National Audubon Society suggests maintaining shrubbery and planting small deciduous trees in your backyard to provide hummingbirds with a safe nesting place.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

The promise of many smart home devices is that they can free your time up to do other things, but how often is that reflected in reality?

We could finally be there with robot lawnmowers. I’ve been using the Segway Navimow i215 in my yard for the last few months, and a few exceptions aside, I haven’t thought about mowing my lawn for a long time. But is the Navimow i215 the best robot lawnmower for your yard? It depends on a lot of factors, such as the size and slope of your grass, but there are a few universal takeaways I found from testing this, as well as several other robot lawnmowers.

Read on to see how well the Navimow i215 performed for me, and if I’d pick it over other models.

Picking the right size

When I first talked with Segway about reviewing one of its lawnmowers, I initially requested the Navimow X4, the company’s top-end device that costs $2,500, can tackle just about any terrain, and has independent wheels that allow it to make zero-degree turns. It’s a truly impressive mower — and it proved to be too much for my yard.

The main reason I requested the X4 is that my front yard, despite being very small, is on a bit of a hill that in the past proved too daunting for some robot lawnmowers. However, after running the X4 for a while, I noticed that it would repeatedly skip over certain sections. Confused, I talked with Segway, which said that because my lawn was so small — we’re talking less than 500 square feet — it had trouble taking care of it properly.

Segway then sent me the Navimow i215, which costs about $1,000 less, and is more suited for mid-size to smaller yards.

Price and availability

The i215 is the newest of Segway’s mid-tier robot lawnmowers. It came on the market in 2026, costs $1,599, can cover up to 0.37 acres, and uses both LiDAR and vision systems to map and navigate your yard.

It’s a bit more sophisticated than the i210 AWD ($1,299, 0.25 acres) and the i206 AWD ($999, 0.15 acres), both of which have obstacle avoidance, but lack LiDAR.

An easy — but not trouble-free —setup

Like most new robot lawnmowers, the Navimow i215 has everything it needs built right into the mower, so there’s no need to install a tower or a boundary wire around your property. I simply set up the base station where the robot docks to recharge, and then followed the instructions in the Navimow app to connect it to my home Wi-Fi network.

As part of the setup process, you can send the mower out to automatically map your yard, or you can perform this task manually by driving the bot around the perimeter.

Even after creating the map, it still required some tweaking, as the i215 kept nose diving off one corner of my lawn; I would have hoped its Lidar would have recognized the dropoff. However, all I had to do was go into the app and re-draw the map to shave off a few inches. After those adjustments, I rarely encountered an issue with it going astray.

Obstacle avoidance and mowing performance

The Navimow did a good job at avoiding objects. It successfully navigated around a small soccer ball, as well as a plastic child’s toy, but ran right over an orange ball the size of a baseball; perhaps it felt it was small enough that it wouldn’t be a problem.

However, unlike the Sunseeker X3, which I tested last year, Segway’s mower and app doesn’t mark on its map that it encountered an obstruction. The only indication I got was that the app showed a spot of the lawn that was unmowed.

After scanning your yard, Segway’s mower will also plot the ideal direction to mow your lawn most efficiently. In my case, it was a diagonal line along the long axis. Taking this route also meant it was able to avoid driving directly up the steepest part of my lawn. I still worried about it creating divots in my lawn; more than once, I saw it spin its wheels in place on some of the steeper sections, which tore up the grass a bit.

Within the Segway Navimow app, you can adjust the direction of the mowing, but unlike most other robot lawnmowers we’ve tested, Segway’s app doesn’t let you mow patterns, such as a crosshatch or diamond. Some companies’ mowers will even let you mow shapes, like hearts. While I think that’s a little frivolous, I do wish Segway would offer a little something more in terms of letting you control how the mower cuts your grass.

Smart home and security features

Even the least expensive robot lawnmower will cost upwards of $500, so some sort of security feature is warranted, so that someone doesn’t simply walk away with your mower as it’s making its rounds.

Segway built two protections into the Navimow to keep would-be thieves from absconding with your stuff. Within the Segway app, you can set a geofence boundary around your property, so that if the bot is moved beyond a certain radius, it will sound an alarm. You can set it anywhere from a 33-foot to up to a 164-foot radius; obviously, if your yard is larger than that, you might want to disable this feature.

Should the alarm not be enough of a deterrent, the Navimow i215 is also equipped with Apple FindMy, so you can locate the mower if it goes missing.

Finally, the i215 also works with Alexa and Google Assistant, so you can use your smart speaker of choice to command the mower to start working, or connect it to your other smart home devices and routines.

Bottom line

I was initially skeptical that the Segway Navimow i215 would be able to negotiate my front yard, but the little machine defied my expectations. While it’s not quite as smart as I hoped — it drove itself right off one of my retaining walls — it ultimately performed well over the long run.

I also liked the i215’s security features, but there are still a couple of things I wish were included. For example, the Worx Landroid has an edge-mowing feature, and the Sunseeker S4 will show in the app any objects it encounters in your yard. And, both of those models — which cost less than the Navimow — also let you mow your yard in specific patterns.

So, while Segway has made a very capable robot lawnmower, there are still others that are a cut above.

Fish owners, rejoice! That (rather pungent) tank clean you have to steel yourself for every so often can double up as a clever gardening hack. As rumour has it, fish tank water is a brilliant source of nutrients to pour over leafy green plants in your garden.

So, next time you're cleaning and removing water from your aquarium, be mindful of the fact that this stuff is essentially liquid gold for gardeners.

There are some dos and don'ts, of course, but the water from most freshwater fish tanks can be a great, mild, and natural fertilizer not just for your garden, but also for indoor plants such as herbs. Interested? Now considering buying some fish? Me too, actually. Here's what else to know...

How exactly can fish tank water help plants?

Here's the very simple reason why: old fish tank water contains fish faeces, which is mainly ammonia. This waste converts from ammonia into nitrite, all thanks to either the filter or gravel in the tank. And as we all know, nitrogen is a form of plant fertilizer. So, not only will this water hydrate your plants, but they'll get a much-needed fertilizer boost at the same time.

It goes without saying, but we'd only suggest giving this water to plants that are in need of fertilizer. Avoid pouring this water on plants that you've recently tended to — because excess nitrogen can harm plants, causing very rapid growth that may threaten the quality of your produce.

If your fish tank is placed rather close to the exit to your backyard, you're winning — this makes it a less stressful job of worrying about spilling this smelly water on your floors.

Better yet? This gardening hack doesn't just mean more water for your plants, but it means you're throwing away less water each time you clean your tank. Instead of throwing it down the drain, pour it into your watering can and make good use of it in your backyard.

Which plants to focus on the most when working with fish tank water? If we're thinking of the ones that will get the most benefit, then focus on herbs like basil, mint, parsley, coriander and rosemary. When it comes to vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, spinach, and cucumbers will love fish tank water. Your fruit plants needn't miss out either: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and citrus plants will all love this extra nitrogen boost.

Produce isn't the only thing that you can use this gardening hack for. If you have a rose bush or plant, then you're winning. The same goes for hydrangeas, lavender, marigolds, and geraniums.

Maybe now you can rethink the kids asking you for a pet once a week!

Final thoughts

It should be noted, though, that this isn't the rule with all fish tanks. Only freshwater ones. Saltwater aquariums don't follow the same rule, so we wouldn't use this for watering your plants since the salt makes it harder for the roots to absorb water.

Be mindful if you've recently added any chemicals or medication to your tank. If you have, check whether what you've added claims to be "plant safe". If you're still unsure, then it's best to avoid using it on your plants until you're sure it won't hurt them. Definitely avoid using the water if you've used any copper-containing treatments in your tank recently.

More from Tom's Guide

• Spraying vinegar on keys: why it's so widely recommended and what it's used for
• 7 easy ways to make homemade fertilizer
• Do you have a ‘drawer of doom’? IKEA’s latest report casts a light on the clutter busters in our homes

It's officially de-weeding season. It's a job that nobody likes to do, but it's a necessity for a tidy backyard. Because there's no point in investing in high-quality patio furniture, choosing the perfect outdoor cushions, and even ensuring that you've got the best grill around, just to let your garden look untidy from weeds.

Take it from me and tackle them now before it's too late. Don't let them grow wild, as it makes the job twice as hard. You should see my front patio — untameable is an understatement, and I just keep putting it off because truly, I don't have the right gear to get it done fast.

That was until I spotted Martha Stewart's gardening line at QVC. Filled with pretty necessities for any gardener, the weeding tool is truly what my garden toolset had been missing.

It's not too large to store in my busy shed; it's easy to handle and best of all: it's super versatile. So much so that Martha herself owns several; she proudly claims.

So, what exactly is the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

You can find everything from patio furniture to gardening gloves and more in the Martha Stewart Outdoor Living section at QVC.

This cultivator tool is similar to most other handheld ones; however, its versatility makes it stand out and is the real reason Martha loves it so much.

Martha explains that its design originates from Japan and its unique shape allows it to not only dig into the ground, but it can also be used to scrape weeds. It has a sturdy wooden handle which makes it easy to grip tight, too, for when you're working with tough roots or extra dry soil.

Martha continues to add that it's her absolute "favourite hand tool of all", claiming that it's super versatile. "I have one of these in every garden bag," says Stewart to QVC.

How to use the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

Much like any other cultivator tool, this is recommended for use to dig weeds out of soil. Its sharp point allows it to pierce into the ground, whether hard or soft at the time, and to scoop out deep-set weeds with ease.

Thanks to this sharp edge, you can even use this tool between tight paving slabs. It also works wonders in loosening weeds, not only digging them out.

This tool is easy to use one-handed, meaning it doesn't require a lot of elbow work, while it makes a quick job of de-weeding a space.

Once you're finished, go ahead and turn it over to its flat edge and use this to scrape these weeds into a pile. Handy for moving debris across your patio and out of your way, plus it won't damage your floor or surface.

Another way to use it? For seeding! Reviewer Dorothea claims it "works great for weeding and making rows for seeds".

JSYK: It might be worth considering which is your dominant hand, as this tool will be more convenient to use if you are right-handed due to its design and shape.

Don't just take it from us — reviewers love this handy tool, too. "Since receiving this tool I have used it non stop when working in my yard. Works great at up rooting my weeds--worth every cent!", claims shopper FLNonny. Another happy reviewer, glassiegirl, adds, "Where has this been all my life??".

There's more where this de-weeder came from, too, as shopper KS Girl raves, "Best garden tool I own. I won’t buy from anyone else that sells garden tools. Please bring us more Martha!". Yes, you can also buy a Martha Stewart 4-piece Trowel Set from QVC, plus a 6-set of Gardening Gloves, and 3 Garden Soil Scoops.

Would you buy this de-weeding tool for yourself or a friend? It'd make the perfect gift for a budding gardener.

More from Tom's Guide

• Stop fighting the climate: Expert-approved tips on how to plant for hotter summers
• 7 expert tips to make your lawn look amazing this summer
• Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower