We’ve all been there: you spot a bizarre, brightly colored bug crawling on your tomato plants or a strange, furry moth hovering near your flowers, and you want to know what it is right now. But rather than typing desperate, vague descriptions into a Google search bar, there’s a much faster way to decode your backyard.

Hidden directly inside your iPhone's standard Photos app is a remarkably powerful machine learning tool that turns your camera roll into an instant nature scanner.

I’ve spent the last week or so pointing my camera at every leaf and brick wall in my yard to see just how accurate this built-in feature really is. Here is how to find the button on your phone, and the wildest garden bugs it's helped me identify so far this summer.

How the feature works

The next time you snap a crisp close-up of a creature or plant, simply open that image in your Photos and look closely at the action bar running along the bottom of the screen.

If your iPhone recognizes a subject in the frame, the standard information circle icon will automatically transform, signalling that Visual Look Up is ready. Tap that, then hold the answer to have Siri pull up more information about your snapped subject.

The best part about this is that it isn't just a dead end. Once Siri identifies the insect, you don't have to stop there. Because iOS now supports conversational continuity, you can actually get into a back-and-forth chat with Siri about the specific thing you’ve found.

You can ask follow-up questions like whether it's dangerous to your tomato plants, what its lifespan is, or how to encourage more of them to visit, allowing you to learn much more without ever leaving your photo library.

Identifying my garden neighbours

Once you know how to trigger it, your photo library essentially becomes a real-life Pokédex. I’ve spent the summer pointing my lens at the grass and garden walls to see how many 'rare spawns' I could find, and I’ve cataloged a bizarrely brilliant cast of characters that I used to walk right past.

My absolute favorite find was a frantic, hovering blur near my lavender. A quick scan unmasked it as a Hummingbird Hawk-Moth, an insect that mimics a bird so perfectly I thought I'd stumbled upon some rare phenomenon, but I was soon schooled about the day moth's lore.

Suddenly, every morning (and evening) became a game of hunting down new species. I used the tool to log a tiny, striped Zebra Spider, spot a Scarlet Tiger Moth hiding by the nettles, and a Red-veined Darter dragonfly.

By the time I had logged everything from grasshoppers to metallic beetles, my perspective on my yard had completely shifted. Thanks to this one iPhone feature, I now see my garden for what it is: a beautifully complex, thriving ecosystem.

Why don't you have a go at scanning your own backyard. Just don't blame me when your camera roll is completely taken over by bugs.

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Last Halloween, I had both a 12-foot Home Depot skeleton and a 20-foot inflatable Lowe's skeleton in my front yard, and the inflatable proved to be the more popular decoration.

This year, however, Home Depot's new 12-foot Skelly may retake the crown, as it's being updated to include more lighting, sound effects, and the ability to move, which should really thrill and delight the trick-or-treaters in my neighborhood.

Here's a look at what the new 12-foot skeleton — which goes on sale today for $379 — can do.

A "smart" Skeleton

The new Skelly is Bluetooth-enabled and can be controlled via an app, which will let you save up to 30 different sounds and control the movement of its head and jaw.

The app will also let you switch its LED eyes between 30 different options, pick from five pre-recorded sounds, and change the color of the lighting in its ribcage. Plus, motion sensors in the Skelly will also trigger its movements when it spots trick-or-treaters coming to your door.

If that's not terrifying enough, a "live" mode will also let you control the Skelly in real time, and have it speak whatever you say with voice-changing effects. I can see having a lot of fun with that.

Home Depot will also continue to sell the non-app controlled 12-foot Skelly for $299.

More things wicked this way come

In addition to the new Skelly, Home Depot is also launching about two dozen new animatronic Halloween decorations, including:

• An 11-foot Giant-Sized LED Mummy ($299) with posable shoulders, LED lights in the eyes and chest, and three sound effects
• A 9-foot Wicked Woods Giant-Sized LED Dry Rot Dennis ($299) that has color changing LED lights in the eyes, mouth and chest
• A 3-foot animated Disney Stitch ($199) with servo motors in its head, can say 5 Stitch phrases, and comes with both Halloween and holiday costumes
• An 8-foot long LED Zombie Velociraptor ($299), which is motion-sensor activated and can move, make noises, and has LED lights
• A 4-foot animated Flying Monkey from "Wicked" ($199) that has flapping wings, lunging torso, tilting head and moving mouth, in addition to five sound effects.

All of the new products go on sale today (July 16), which seems really early for Halloween — talk about holiday creep — but if the past is any indication, the new Skelly should prove popular. Some of the products, such as the new Skelly, will only be available as in-store purchases.

Time to clear out more space in your garage!

There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes. And if you enjoy picking these straight from the vine and into your dishes (or mouth), it can be a letdown when your crop misses that bold, juicy flavor you had hoped for.

However, even though it looks ripe and ready for the picking, you’ll need to know the best stage of ripeness for picking a tomato.

What’s more, tomatoes on the vine are constantly at risk of damage from weather extremes, pests, and disease. Which is why identifying the ideal time to harvest is crucial for securing a high-quality, delicious yield.

So if you want to avoid a bland and disappointing crop, here are the three tomato picking stages — to ensure they are bursting with the juicy flavor you crave.

1. When your tomatoes are fully ripe and red

This is when your tomato crops have reached their full size, red color, and are firm in texture. These signs indicate that your harvest is ready for consumption, and experts suggest eating or using them immediately after they are picked for maximum flavor.

However, after harvesting, be sure you consume them within a day or two to enjoy them before their peak flavor begins to fade.

It’s also worth noting that the kind of tomato plant you select is vital for its final flavor.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D, horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield. Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before choosing which seeds to sow, you should investigate which particular cultivars align with your preferred flavor profiles.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. The ‘color break’ or turn stage

As the name suggests, this is the point at which the fruit begins to get color, about the size of a dime on the blossom end.

While it’s tempting to pluck and eat the fruit at this stage, you may be disappointed with the overall taste, as it hasn’t yet fully ripened.

A top tip is to place them on a countertop at room temperature for three days, and the tomato should ripen — ready for your tasty dishes.

Of course, if you want to keep them for longer, store them in the fridge for a few days.

3. Mature green stage

This is when your plant has a lighter green color but no pink/red showing yet on the blossom end. Typically, this indicates that your tomatoes are not quite ready to harvest, and usually takes about a week to fully ripen.

However, you can pluck and store them in the fridge for a few weeks at this stage of development. In addition, gardeners usually harvest mature green crops as the season ends to protect them from frost.

Top tip for tasty tomatoes

Although the heatwave might encourage more frequent watering, overwatering your plants can actually wash out the bold flavor you desire.

To avoid diluting those essential sugars and acids, a good tip is to water only once the upper two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer.

“Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll need to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering.

Add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all vital for healthy development and full flavor.

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest

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• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

I bought my first hydrangea this year. And despite everyone I know (well, my mom and grandma) telling me to plant it in the ground, I decided to defy the odds and keep it in my lovely garden pot. And it worked for approximately two months until it totally died. Or so I thought it did.

I took a few snaps of my once-pink and beautiful hydrangea and asked AI to help me bring it back to life. To my surprise, there were several things I was doing wrong, all of which definitely contributed to its rapid decay.

Now? It's showing some signs of regrowth, and I didn't even have to spend any money. Here's hoping that next year will bring some of these beautiful blooms back again.

Yes, there is a chance that you can save your potted hydrangea if it's looking a little sad because of the heat.

So whether you are battling parched patches or fragile stems, here is my personal process—and the expert-backed steps you should implement—before you give up and toss everything into the compost heap. After all, a little effort can go a long way!

1. You need to trim it back (trust me!)

One of the worst things that you can do if your hydrangea is dying is leave it to wilt and die.

Instead, you need to chop away the dead bits to make way for new life. Start by removing dead leaves and then focus on the dead stems.

A good way to test the stems is to scratch them slightly. If they are green underneath, they are alive, but brown means they're dead.

I had to trim back my entire hydrangea in the end, and I really wasn't feeling hopeful afterwards, to be honest. But I did manage to find a good few stems showing slithers of life.

2. It definitely needs a good drink

You might think that just watering your hydrangea with your watering can is enough. And most of the time, it is.

But when it's looking really sad or maybe almost dead, then it's time for a sink bath. Simply use your plug and fill your kitchen sink with water, place your pot in there, and let it have a really good drink.

A good way to check if your hydrangea needs a sink bath is to use a finger and poke it into its soil. If it's soggy or musty 2-3 inches down, it's been overwatered, or there might be poor drainage. If it's totally dry, in the sink it goes.

I left mine in the sink for 30 minutes. I then let it fully drain afterwards, before walking it back through my house and to my garden.

3. It probably needs to be moved

My garden is south-facing, which you think is great until it hits the summer months and being barefoot outside is no longer an option.

So, watering your plants three times a day becomes a chore and a necessity. All jokes aside: a south-facing garden is a little bit of a nightmare. And it's also probably the reason why some of your plants aren't surviving! After I moved my hydrangea from one side of my garden to the other, I saw a difference.

Simply moving its position from all-day sun to only morning sun and afternoon shade gave this plant a little bit of a break.

Now, it lives in the one spot in my garden that gets shade first, and it's loving it.

4. Feed it coffee

Just like yourself, your hydrangea plant thrives when given a coffee (or five!).

I have a bean-to-cup coffee maker, and I've been feeding this plant the spent grounds and water for around six weeks.

I don't overdo it, but a little does definitely help! There are so many good uses for coffee when it comes to gardening.

Top tip

You might find that a few weeds start growing in your potted hydrangea as you're trying to encourage new growth.

This is normal, but you should definitely remove these from the root as soon as possible. These weeds will be taking away any nutrients from your hydrangea, and as we know, it desperately needs all of the nutrients it can get right now.

The end results

Six weeks later, I can finally see new life coming back to my hydrangea plant. There's no chance of blooming flowers just yet, but it is showing promising signs of regrowth thanks to its obviously new and green leaves in the center of its pot.

And I even asked AI to confirm this for me, in case it was wishful thinking. I told it my location, and it assessed the photo I sent.

The roots are definitely still alive, and it's starting to reshoot from the base, which is what hydrangeas do after a severe dieback.

If yours is looking the same, then it recommends leaving it for another 2-3 weeks without pruning, as the current stems will protect new growth. After this, you can decide which stems are finally dead and which ones are showing positive signs. In this time, keep it moist but don't let it sit in lots of water.

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Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Basil is fussy about conditions. It comes from warm tropical environments where it thrives in heat, bright light, and consistent care. When basil starts turning yellow, it's essentially waving a flag. Something in its environment has shifted.

Once you understand what basil needs, diagnosing the problem becomes straightforward. In most cases, yellowing basil leaves signal one of three fixable issues. Here's how to identify which one and get your plant back to thriving.

1. Your basil is too wet

Overwatering causes about 80% of basil yellowing problems. Basil hates sitting in waterlogged soil. When soil stays damp, roots suffocate and can't absorb nutrients or oxygen. The plant essentially drowns from the inside.

Look at the lower leaves first. If they're turning soft and mushy yellow while the soil feels damp or smells stale, you're watering too much. The fix is immediate: stop watering completely. Let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry out entirely before you water again.

Also, make sure your pot has drainage holes. This is non-negotiable for basil.

Going forward, water when soil feels dry to the touch, not on a schedule. Basil would rather be slightly underwatered than oversaturated.

2. It's living in the shadows

Basil is a sun worshipper that needs 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to maintain its green color. Without it, the entire plant looks pale and yellowish. You'll also notice the stems getting long, thin, and stretchy as they reach desperately toward the nearest light source.

Move basil to your absolute sunniest window, preferably south-facing. If indoor light is genuinely limited, a cheap LED grow light makes an enormous difference. Even a few hours under a grow light daily revives pale, yellowing basil remarkably fast.

Outdoor placement works too, if weather allows. Exposure to full sun transforms basil plants within days.

3. The soil has nothing left to give

Basil grows aggressively and depletes potting soil nutrients within 4-6 weeks. Nitrogen deficiency is usually the culprit behind yellowing leaves. Unlike the mushy yellow from overwatering, nutrient-starved basil stays firm. The entire plant just looks pale and stunted.

Give it a drink of balanced, water-soluble fertilizer mixed at half strength — tomato or herb fertilizer works perfectly. One feeding usually restores color within a week or two. If you're using basil heavily for cooking, consider fertilizing every 2-3 weeks to keep nutrients available.

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While their distinctive black-and-white coats are easily identifiable, skunks are rarely welcomed as backyard friends. Instead, they are often dismissed as garden pests.

Their reputation for being stinky creatures far outweighs their striking appearance, an annoyance only amplified by the mess they make digging up lawns in search of grubs.

How to tell if a skunk’s been in your backyard

Even if you don’t spot a skunk in broad daylight, they leave clear signs behind. Brandon Runyon, entomologist at Swat Pest Management, says, “You may see signs of digging, knocked-over trash cans, and even smell that a skunk’s been about.”

According to Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf, skunks typically dig 3-4-inch holes in lawns as they scratch around for grubs. And she also warns that the animals’ unpleasant sulfur-like spray can penetrate clothing or furniture that’s left outside.

If you keep livestock in your backyard, keep an eye on your coops. Zaber adds that skunks will target poultry and eat their eggs — a crime you can detect by an eggshell opened at one end, with the edges crushed inward.

What do skunks eat?

Runyon explains that these black-and-white creatures are omnivores, obtaining energy and nutrients from both plant and animal matter. This leaves a whole host of opportunities for skunks in your backyard.

Apart from devouring fallen nuts and fruit in your yard, he says they’ll also knock over trash cans to find food and will wreak havoc on your lawn, digging up Japanese beetles, beetle grubs and earthworms.

What’s more, if you leave out cat and dog food for stray animals or your pets, you’re inviting skunks to tuck in.

Where do skunks shelter?

While the skunks are causing havoc in your yard, rooting for food, they may also be looking for a suitable den. “This could be under your deck, your shed, your porch, or any other place where they can burrow, such as thick brush, wood piles and leaf piles,” explains Runyon.

To deter them, Zaber recommends fixing any spaces that they can call home.

Skunk deterrents

There are natural repellents you can use at home to deter skunks, although Runyon says they’re not long-term fixes. Instead, both experts recommend the following measures.

1. Stop skunks from entering
Place a big defender around your fence line to keep skunks from digging into your yard.

2. Cover up your trash
Keep the lids on your trash cans and secure them with locks if practical. If your trash can is knocked over, the contents won’t spill out if the lid is securely in place.

3. Reduce potential den sites
Tidy up your backyard and remove any wood piles and leaf litter where skunks can make a den. Then, secure any other potential hideouts by closing up gaps beneath sheds and houses.

4. Protect your lawn
Newly laid lawns are particularly attractive to skunks, as they are often well-watered and have plenty of grubs. To reduce both skunk and grub activity, apply a grub treatment and water your lawn correctly.

5. Keep pet food inside
Avoid leaving pet food outside for any length of time, and if you can feed your animals inside your house.

Friend or foe?

While you might prefer to banish skunks from your yard, Back to the Wild, a wildlife sanctuary in Ohio, recognizes what skunks have to offer.

In an Instagram post, the sanctuary shares, “These nocturnal neighbors help control insect and rodent populations, and they actually help protect lawns, gardens and native plant life.

"They’re shy, peaceful animals that would much rather avoid you than confront you. So if you spot a skunk wandering through your yard, don’t panic! You may have a tiny pest-control specialist working the night shift.”

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With temperatures soaring, we’re not the only ones who are feeling parched — our plants are also bearing the brunt of extreme temperatures. Beyond simply adjusting your seasonal lawn care routine, it is vital to adopt strategies that ensure your plants can withstand the heatwave.

Whether you have favorite houseplants, raised beds, or tasty tomato plants, you’ll need to know how to protect them in scorching temperatures. If not, your plants will struggle in the sun and eventually die. Luckily, we’ve got a gardening expert at hand to offer a few top tips that can help your plants thrive and survive the summer.

1. Water at the right time of day

While it might be tempting to water your plants more when the weather is scorching, timing is actually everything.

Experts advise watering your garden either in the early morning or the evening once temperatures are cooler. By watering during these cooler hours, your plants can soak up the water rather than just evaporating.

“When it comes to watering, it’s important to water deeply at the coolest points of the day,” states Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.

“If it’s too hot, the water will just evaporate, and your plants won’t benefit.”

In addition, you should aim to give the roots a deep watering, as this will be much more effective than light and frequent watering.

And if you want to retain moisture for extended periods, add a layer of mulch around the base of your plants. “Adding a generous layer of mulch at the base of your plants will help improve the soil structure and will allow the soil to retain water for longer.”

So not only does it help to retain moisture in the soil, but acts as an insulator against the sun's UV rays.

If you want more top tips check out when you should replace mulch — and why it's essential.

2. Throw some shade

Another top tip is to move potted plants out of the sun and into shaded areas during the hottest part of the day. Just like us, this will provide our plants with some light relief and keep them cool.

“For plants that can’t be moved, or heavy pots, cover them with a shade cloth or make your own temporary one out of an old fitted bed sheet,” adds Bonnett.

Young or newly established plants will especially struggle in scorching temperatures — protect them by creating temporary cover with a shade cloth.

3. Stay away from fertilizers

A common mistake we often make is to add fertilizers to our wilting plants, but experts advise to steer clear of using in a heatwave.

“Stay away from fertilizing the lawn or plants during a heatwave,” agrees Bonnett. “Not only can they burn plants but fertilizers encourage new growth which can stress plants and cause them more harm than good.

Similarly, avoid pruning while the sun is at its peak. Cutting back growth now can place additional, unwanted pressure on your greenery — it is far better to hold off until the mercury begins to fall.

For more summer gardening tips, check out can you plant in a heatwave?

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•  Here are 7 plants that will thrive in the shade 
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Nothing beats the taste of homegrown tomatoes — freshly picked off the vine and thrown straight into your tasty meals. And even though these crops are considered the easiest to grow, it can be disappointing when you end up with more lush foliage than fruit.

This is especially true when you were looking forward to a juicy, flavorful harvest this summer. If your plants aren't producing, don't despair — there are several reasons behind your missing fruit and simple ways to get your crops back on track.

So, if you find yourself struggling with a plant that is all foliage and no fruit, these are the three most common pitfalls you might be making. Plus simple tips to ensure a bountiful harvest.

1. Choose the right variety for your climate

One key factor behind your lack of tomato harvest could be your climate. Typically, tomatoes thrive in temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. And if your planting area is either too hot or too cool, your crops will struggle to flower properly, resulting in a disappointing lack of fruit.

If your plants continue to struggle with flowering and you haven’t seen any fruit in months, try switching to another variety that is more suited to your local weather conditions.

For those living in the sun-drenched South, choosing heat-tolerant types like Buffalosun, Cherokee Purple, Stellar, or Pink Delicious can help you secure a flavorful harvest.

Those in colder regions with limited summer windows should opt for hardy varieties such as Washington Cherry, Legend, and Sub-Arctic Plenty to ensure their plants thrive.

In addition, tomato flowers tend to self-pollinate once the flower opens. If the weather conditions are affected by excessive heat, cold, or moisture levels, the pollen from the male parts of the flower may not reach the female parts — affecting development.

One pro tip is to try giving your tomato stems a light shake as soon as the first blossoms come through, as this simple trick can help promote better fruit set.

For more planting tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. Give your tomatoes enough sun

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants and need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help them produce more fruit. Without adequate sunshine, plants struggle to photosynthesize, and they will lack the energy to thrive.

As a result, this leads to tall, spindly growth, producing very few flowers and a sparse harvest of tomatoes to enjoy.

What’s more, low-light conditions are known to produce watery, bland fruit that lacks sweetness. So if you want to ensure juicy and flavorful fruit all season, let it soak up enough sun.

If you’re growing tomatoes in pots, it might be best to relocate them to a sunnier area in the home, and monitor the sun’s movement during growing season.

3. Watering tomatoes properly

While the summer heat might tempt you to reach for the hose more often, overwatering or under-watering your tomatoes can result in poor growth, wilting, and a lack of flowers and fruit.

The general rule of thumb is to water deeply and consistently when the top two inches of soil begin to dry. You can always check the soil for dryness before watering again with a water meter.

Plus, you’ll want to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering. So a top tip is to add a rich, organic fertilizer like a layer of mulch around the base of the plants. Not only will it provide essential nutrients, but can act as a weed barrier, and prevent disease.

To get more out of your harvest this summer, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

I've been trying to get the right bird feeder for my garden for months. From my hanging cage that attracts unwanted attention from squirrels, to the smaller wooden box that keeps falling down, to the DIY one my son made that came under attack, I'm not having much luck.

So, I turned to my old faithful — a flat bird feeder that balances safely upon a pole and provides a roof to shield the food from the elements. Only, it turns out, that's exactly what I shouldn't be using. While I thought I was doing something good for my local wildlife with the most stable option, in fact, using a flat bird feeder could be having the opposite effect. And if you're using one too, you might want to rethink it.

Why you shouldn't be using a flat bird feeder 

Bird tables feel like one of the most common ways to feed birds that are local to your area and that's because they are. But, conservation charities like Britain's Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) strongly advise against them and there's a good reason for it.

According to the RSPB, it's actually a hot bed for disease, specifically finch trichomonosis, a highly contagious variant that's easily spread around bird feeders. And the problem with flat bird feeders in particular is that the feed sits out in one spot for extended periods of time where birds continuously visit and revisit it.

RSPB specifically advises: "Don't use bird feeders with flat surfaces, such as bird tables, window feeders and feeders with trays. Research has confirmed that there's a higher risk of disease spreading on flat surfaces, where contaminated food can collect."

Leaving diseased food or droppings on a flat surface can have devastating consequences for your garden birds, so instead of using flat bird feeders, you should be avoiding them.

What you should do instead

Fortunately, both the RSPB and The National Audubon Society have abundant advice on what you should do instead if, like me, you're struggling to find the right solution for feeding your garden birds.

The National Audubon Society recommends that to prevent the spread of illness, you need to follow three simple steps: "Clean feeders regularly, tidy below the feeder and share the wealth." The National Wildlife Health Center advises that to clean them, you should make "a solution of nine parts water to one part bleach," making sure to dry the bird feeder fully before putting it back out.

Tidying below it is also important, as well as to "share the wealth" by spreading out food among a few feeders to hopefully reduce the chance of all of them becoming contaminated.

Overarching all this advice, the RSPB says that what you should really be doing is to "help birds find their own food." It recommends instead that you should be helping garden birds to discover foods by planting bird-friendly plants in your garden, including sunflowers and ivy.

If you want to use bird feeders, it seems choosing hanging ones are your best option, as long as you're keeping them clean and moving them around regularly so that food build-up doesn't occur. I'll just make sure that next time I buy a hanging bird feeder, it's one that deters squirrels.

More from Tom's Guide

• Ditch the feeder this summer: The natural way to keep garden birds healthy
• Why your birdfeeder becomes a ‘disease spot’ in a heatwave — and how to fix it
• I’ve been using this Birdfy smart bird feeder for four months: here’s what I've learned

As the weather warms up, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy — particularly when preparing for outdoor entertaining.

And while you might already have a lawn care routine that you stick to, you might be forgetting to do this one crucial step before cutting your grass. In fact, it’s a common mistake we often make when mowing our lawn, but if left unchecked, it can cause long-term damage to our mower’s blades.

What’s more, this could ruin your lush, healthy grass just as the summer begins. So if you want to ensure a greener lawn, don’t skip this one lawn mower check.

Make sure the grass is dry before cutting

While this might not seem necessary in warmer months, you should always check that your grass is dry before getting the mower out. Be it from morning dew or a summer shower, excess moisture can make all the difference to your mower blades.

This is due to the fact that damp blades of grass tend to stick or clump together, which can significantly blunt your mower's cutting edge over time. Consequently, this makes the blades work less effectively and could cause them to overheat, as they’ll need to work harder to get through the clumps — and potentially make your mower break down.

In addition, moist cuttings can build up beneath the mower deck and across your blades, which results in rusted metal components and a decline in your machine’s efficiency.

Of course, keeping your lawn mower in top condition is vital, so ensure your mower blades are sharp and avoid mowing with blunt equipment.

There are many blade sharpening tools available online; however, a metal file also works well — always follow the safety guidelines for your mower. Check out our guide on how to sharpen lawn mower blades for more info.

Uneven and lackluster grass

To make matters worse, mowing when the grass is moist can trigger various other problems that can affect your turf's health. The first is torn or unevenly cut grass, as the sheer weight of moisture forces individual grass stalks to droop, preventing them from remaining upright and resulting in an uneven, ragged finish across your turf.

Another issue is the breeding of fungus and other diseases, as they thrive in the damp conditions of these rough cuts — causing damage to soil.

It’s worth noting that while cutting lightly damp grass on a single occasion probably won’t lead to long-term problems, it’s still best to avoid it as much as possible.

Just be sure to avoid these 7 lawnmower mistakes you’re probably making right now.

When is the best time to mow your lawn?

Gardening experts suggest that the ideal time to mow is mid-morning (by 10 am), as your lawn has had sufficient time to dry. In addition, allowing your turf enough time to dry and mowing by this time ensures your lawn has the full day to heal from the cut.

Alternatively, if you can’t get round to mid-morning, late afternoon (between 4-6 pm) is the second-best time of day to mow your lawn. This is when the sun is not at its peak, and there is no risk of the heat scorching the lawn. Also, mowing at this hour additionally provides your grass with ample time to heal before nightfall.

For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

Lawncare essentials we love

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• This is the reason why your lawn mower grass cuttings are clumping — and the simple fix to solve it
• How to use coffee grounds as lawn fertilizer — 5 tips for a lush lawn
• The secret to a lush green lawn is this $3 bathroom item — and you might already own it

Three years ago, my wife and I planted a peach tree in our backyard, and have been enchanted with its lovely scent when it blooms in the spring. Each year, it also produces dozens of peaches, which we eagerly wait to ripen. However, all too often, the tree is systematically stripped bare by ravenous squirrels, who seem to know just when to pluck the fruit from the tree.

It's utterly frustrating. After we saw it happen the first year, we tried netting the second year, but it was a pain to wrap around the tree; the squirrels were undeterred, and by mid-June, the tree was barren of all peaches.

This year, I'm trying something different using something I would have otherwise thrown out with the trash, and it's working so far. Here's what I did.

Strawberry containers to the rescue

Due to my daughter's fondness for the fruit, we go through at least one container of strawberries per week. Our supermarket carries the Driscoll brand, which come in rectangular plastic containers. Normally, these containers get thrown into the garbage or recycling, but this past spring, as I was getting ready to toss one out, I took a look at the container, which gave me an idea.

The strawberry container is designed to allow for airflow, so that the strawberries don't get moldy. But, I also realized that these slots could also work to my advantage on my peach tree.

I opened a container, placed it around a peach, and then snapped it shut. The slots in the container not only let the peach breathe, but they're also large enough so that I can put it around a branch without damaging it.

How it's going so far

I used strawberry containers to protect about a half-dozen peaches, and wouldn't you know, those are the only peaches that are still on the tree. I had my doubts about the small plastic locks on the containers, but they've remained secure, even through some pretty big and gusty thunderstorms.

The squirrels haven't yet figured out how to open the containers — and I hope they don't — but few things are as tempting.

I also tried using a blueberry container, but they don't have the same slots around the top rim, so when I cut holes to allow for the branch, the container lost all its structural stability, and wouldn't remain locked on the tree.

The peaches are growing slowly, but steadily. The biggest downside is that having a bunch of plastic containers on the tree isn't the most aesthetically pleasing, but if that's the price to pay for a juicy peach from my own tree, then it's something I'll gladly accept.

What are your tricks for keeping squirrels away from your fruit trees? Let me know in the comments.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 plants that repel squirrels and keep them out of your yard
• How to get rid of squirrels without hurting them - Tom's Guide
• Squirrels wreaking havoc in your garden? 9 products to keep them away

Summer is here, and the perfect time to get out and enjoy your outdoor spaces in style. Whether you take pride in your lush lawn or are preparing for hosting gatherings, a patterned lawn can truly provide that wow factor and elevate your entire garden.

But if you don’t want a classic striped lawn or even a diamond pattern, why not try a twist with the checkerboard effect? Known for its unique, geometric squares, you can easily replicate this look by switching your travel path while mowing.

In fact, this specific method is a favorite for golf course managers, which can instantly give your own backyard a premium appeal. What’s more, this method will make your grass appear healthier.

While it may seem like a job for the professionals, mastering the checkerboard effect is actually quite easy to do. I asked a grass expert to share their top tips on how to mow a checkerboard pattern the right way — so your lawn can be the envy of your neighbors.

How to create a checkerboard lawn — in 2 easy steps

Creating a checkerboard pattern is pretty straightforward. In this method, you simply need to alternate your mowing path between horizontal and vertical passes across your turf.

Before you start, experts advise that your grass should be thick and healthy. This is because the pattern actually comes from the blades leaning in different directions and the light bouncing off it. So if your lawn is patchy, bumpy, or in bad condition overall, this will affect the overall results.

“You need to make sure you have a healthy and even lawn before you begin,” advises Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“The checkerboard appearance comes from the blades leaning in different directions and the light bouncing off it, so a bumpy or patchy lawn might not be as effective”.

In addition, it’s ideal to have helpful tools such as a lawn roller; however, most standard mowers have this already attached. More importantly, you should ensure that your mower's blades are perfectly sharp before you begin.

“A roller is essential; most standard mowers have these attached to the rear, but you can use a separate roller if you prefer, ”advises Davis. “Plot your path, either using string or stakes. You can try to mentally plan your route, but this could lead to wonky lines. “

Begin by mowing a horizontal line through your turf. Then, rotate your mower to complete a vertical pass alongside it, alternating your route with every subsequent pass.

“Mow the first set of stripes in one direction across the whole lawn, alternating the direction of travel on each pass - up and then back down,” adds Davis.

“Then turn 90 degrees and repeat the process. The second pass will intersect the first, and where the two directions overlap, you get the checkerboard squares instead of simple stripes.”

By following these steps precisely, you should achieve a checkerboard pattern, although bear in mind the lines may be a little subtle at first. In any case, as your grass grows, you’ll need to re-mow or re-roll over the original pattern to ensure your distinct pattern.

“Changing the pattern of your lawn can have some benefits,” states Davis. “It prevents the grass from leaning in one set direction, which can weaken it over time and make it grow unevenly.

“It can also lead to less soil compaction. Driving or walking over the same sections in the same way can compress the soil, which restricts root growth and drainage. Switching your route up spreads that wear out.”

The same rules apply for regular mowing, and you must avoid doing a checkerboard pattern when the grass is damp or moist. This can lead to clumping — or ruin the overall aesthetic.

“Avoid doing it when the ground is wet as this can lead to clumping. Mowing during periods of hot weather can also lead to your turf becoming stressed,” Davis explains.

“A striped, two-tone checkerboard effect you see on sports fields or golf courses is actually quite achievable in your own garden”.

So if you’re looking to truly spruce up your backyard this season, give your turf a premium checkerboard upgrade.

For more top lawncare tips, check out 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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• Why do I have yellow patches in my lawn? Gardening experts share their top tips on how to fix it
• How to dethatch a lawn
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

I have a confession to make. I really, really don’t mind skimming my pool. I just like being in it and around it, and will basically make any excuse to spend more time there, even if it’s work.

So when I had the opportunity to test out the Beatbot iSkim, I was actually kind of nervous. Why do I need a $499 robot ($369 on sale at Amazon) to do something that takes just 20 to 30 minutes at a clip with a $20 net, especially if I’m not going to be able to pretend I’m “working” on the pool?

The Beatbot iSkim promises less emptying and more pool time, as it continuously keeps your pool clean from debris while constantly staying charged via a solar panel. So I wanted to give it a fair shake. And now I don’t want to give it back.

Super easy setup

The blue robot looks friendly enough. The Beatbot iSkim is on the bulky side at 21.1 x 20.1 x 8.9 inches, but it’s a fairly light 15 pounds. And setting it up couldn’t be easier. I took it out of the box, loaded up the app and was ready to go in a few minutes.

Out of the box my iSkim had a battery capacity of 58% but the large solar panel on top allows the robot to keep juiced up all the time. I just dropped the iSkim into my pool with two hands and pressed the power button, and then it started moving around picking up blades of grass, leaves and bugs.

How well does it clean?

One of the best things about the Beatbot iSkim is that it comes with a large 9L basket. That’s enough space for plenty of debris. After 4 days there was still plenty of room but I washed out the basket anyway. And the basket is easy to remove too. You just push down on a latch, and pull out the handle.

My only complaint is that you need to make sure the pool is free of other items for the best results. The Beatbot does have built-in obstacle avoidance, but that didn’t stop it from trying to swallow my floating pool thermometer. The mouth of the robot (aka the inlet) is pretty wide.

The Beatbot iSkim fully cleaned the surface of my pool in under an hour, but it can take up to 2 hours to clean larger pools.

Solar charging and app

After just a couple of hours in direct sunlight the iSkim was already at 98% battery capacity, and a full charge of the 10,000 mAh battery gives you up to 28 hours of cleaning power. So even if you don’t have sunlight for a couple of days you’ll still be able to robo-skim your pool.

I also like that the iSkim is smart enough to automatically seek sunlight in your pool if there’s parts of it that get more sun versus shade. If for some reason you need to charge via an outlet you can use a 64.4W adapter, but that’s sold separately for $59.

You can easily track the charging status in the Beatbot app, which has some other neat functions. You can press the Park button at any time to have the iSkim come to the side of the pool, and there’s even a remote function that lets you send the robot in a particular direction.

If you just feel like showing off, you can press the accelerate button and have the iSkim go faster for no particular reason, and you can steer the robot using directional arrows. I had fun putting a drink on the robot and delivering it to someone on a raft.

Bottom line

The Beatbot iSkim might seem like overkill, especially if you already have a robot vacuum for your pool. But the way that I see it is that having something like iSkim means I don’t have to drag out my robot vacuum (which is heavier and wired) nearly as often. And that’s because less debris will get to the bottom of my pool over time.

So while I initially scoffed at the iSkim as solving a first-world problem, I’m now a fan of the robot. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s super easy to use, an effective cleaning tool, and you basically never need to charge it. Now I’m going to have to find other excuses to work on my pool.

There are a lot of fancy outdoor solar lights to brighten up your backyard, but few will be around for more than a season. So, when I tested Govee’s smart solar string lights, I was pleasantly surprised by the unshakeable feeling that these will last.

OK, they do come with a premium price tag, and it’s this factor that might make you stall before making a purchase, but you won’t find anything quite like these dazzling string lights on the market.

And as Govee steps into the smart lighting market for the first time, I can say it's done so with great success. For someone reluctant to add yet another app to her phone, I was actually excited to try out all the wizardry from a connected set of lights. In fact, I’ve given a set to my tech-loving dad for his 90th birthday.

Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights: Price and availability

I tested a set of Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights, with eight dimmable LEDs, available at Amazon for $99. They are also available at Walmart for $99, but are currently reduced to $79 at Govee.

They cost substantially more than Brightech’s Ambience Pro Solar String Lights, which are $21 at Amazon, for 12 lights, and recommended as the best overall solar lights in our buying guide. But as the Govee lights are smart, it’s not a fair comparison.

Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights: Design

The biggest advantage of these lights is that they're solar-powered, so you don’t need to rely on an external socket. What’s more, you won't fret if the weather turns cloudy; a built-in option lets you go old school and manually charge the battery. It’s these extras that make it a premium product.

So, what’s in the box? The solar lights come impressively packed and include a string of eight LED bulbs, with a large solar module, which can either be wall-mounted or staked into the soil. Each individual bulb features a convenient top loop, making it easy to hang from a hook or secure using the included ties.

And you don’t just get standard RGB bulbs; these RGBICW lights offer the flexibility to display more than just red, green and blue. You get the added extra of cold white, which, according to Govee, provides incredible brightness, more so than RGB and RGBIC lighting.

On the reverse side of the solar module, you’ll notice a USB-C charging port, an on/off button, and the cable connector. It’s also where the ground stake and mounting support are attached. The entire set-up feels solid and well-built. In fact, measuring 8.5 x 8.5 inches, it’s the largest solar module I’ve come across while reviewing solar lights.

However, if you have a small space, you may find these string lights awkward to hang, as the spacing between bulbs is a massive 62 inches. To capture them in one photo, I strung the lights around an arbor seat, which required some creative double-backing with the cable.

On the bright side, there is a generous gap between the last bulb and the solar module. If you want to place your lights in a shady area, you’ll likely have enough cable length to mount the solar panel in a spot that catches the sun.

Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights: Set-up

If you’re planning an outdoor party, don’t wait until five minutes before the first guest arrives to set these up. They are not difficult to assemble, but you will need a little time to install the app and get used to its customization features.

I started by manually charging the solar module, as recommended in the instruction manual. You can rely on the sun hereafter, if there’s enough of it. Next, I placed the lights around my garden arbor, using nails to keep the wires secure. You can also hang each bulb by its integrated top loop using the included cable ties — and thankfully, you get plenty.

When testing solar lights, I prefer to stake the solar module into the ground, and the stake supplied felt reliably sturdy — much more so than the stake supplied with the T-Sun LED spotlights, featured as the best budget option in our buying guide. If your soil is hard, give it a light watering before inserting the stake. However, you can mount the panel on a wall or fence to make the most of the sun. Adjusting the angle of the solar module to catch the best light is straightforward.

Once the lights and module were both in place, I connected them, then pressed and held down the on/off button on the back of the panel to power on the lights.

Setting up the app

To unlock the full functionality of these smart lights, you’ll need to download the Govee Home App. Fortunately, I’d already completed this step, from a previous review of the GoveeLife smart meat thermometer. From here, I turned on my Bluetooth, opened the app and searched for ‘H3001’. I was then able to complete the pairing with my phone located close to the solar module.

Now everything really does get started. Besides being bamboozled initially by what seemed like an infinite number of options, I quickly found my way around the app.

Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights: Functionality and performance

First off, you can set the brightness of the lights in the app, choosing 50%, 80%, or 100%. Right beside the brightness level is a timer — if you’re organized and want to set it to run on a schedule.

Although there are many color options, you can still stick to traditional white because sometimes a simple look is all you need. But if you really want to get the party started, there’s a whole lot more to keep you entertained.

Below the timer and brightness options, you'll see a row of options including Color, Scene, AI, Music, Share Space, DIY and More.

I was more interested in experimenting with color options, so I started adjusting the color temperature using a slider. One of the best parts of the app controls is that you can see the lighting change instantly, everything is in real time, there's no delay.

You have the option to pick from a basic color or play around with multi-tone color wheels. It brings a whole new dimension to scrolling on your phone. You can also save your preferred color choices.

I expected the color options to be the most mesmerizing part of the controls, but wait until you move on to other options. Beyond steady colors, you can select from an extensive array of multi-color changing patterns — there truly is a setting for every vibe.

Selecting ‘Starry Sky’ under the ‘Natural’ effects menu offers a gentle, soothing blend of colors, or ‘Bonfire’ gives you a bit more flash. There’s even a ‘Festival’ section to create a lighting display for Thanksgiving or Mother’s Day, and a whole lot more besides.

I really can’t overstate the sheer extent of options available.

You can even ask AI to design a custom lighting effect for you, or sync the lights to music to follow the rhythm. Govee hasn’t missed a trick. In fact, I used the AI tool to create a disco vibe from the 70s, and it took me right back to my youth.

Govee Outdoor Solar String Lights: Verdict

If you frequently spend time in your backyard and love entertaining outside, these Govee Outdoor String Lights will instantly elevate the mood and get your guests talking. Just keep in mind that if you want to string them across a wide expanse, you’ll need more than one box. Yes, they are the most expensive solar lights I’ve ever put to the test — but they are absolutely worth it. If you want the ultimate all-singing, all-dancing way to add a sparkle to your summer nights, Govee has you sorted.

Mowing my yard is one chore I never look forward to. Well, at least not as I get older. I used to love mowing the grass for the workout, but now it does nothing but trigger my allergies.

I've experimented with robot lawnmowers in the past. I've paid $175 a month — even during the winter, when they weren't in use — to rent a couple of Husqvarna mowers from a landscaping company. Eventually, I realized it wasn't a wise investment, so I canceled the contract. Later on, I tested the EcoFlow Blade for a while, but its wheels loved to dig holes in my yard with each and every turn, so eventually I stopped using it.

For the last month, I've been testing the Sunseeker S4, a robot lawnmower that leverages AI and LiDAR for mapping and navigation. I don't want to spoil the review, but I'm smitten.

Sunseeker S4 review: Price and availability

The Sunseeker S4 is currently available directly from Sunseeker with a regular price of $1,799 but a sale price of $1,299, but Amazon has it on sale right now for just $984. That includes the robot lawnmower, a docking station, extra blades, and a cleaning brush for the LiDAR sensor.

If you're reading this and the S4 has returned to its normal price, I'd wait for a sale.

Sunseeker S4 review: Design

The S4 doesn't break the mold when it comes to the robot lawnmower's overall design. It's compact, measuring 25.12 x 16.61 x 10.79 inches, and weighs 26 pounds. In the event the robot gets stuck somewhere and you need to lift it, there's a handle built into the rear of the housing that makes it a breeze to pick up.

On the front of the S4 is a monocular camera with a 360-degree LiDAR sensor on top. It's tucked into a bumper that slightly moves in when the lawnmower presses against a hard object, The sensor is easy to spot due to its black bubble-like housing.

Behind the LiDAR bubble is a flip-up cover that hides an LCD display and a few buttons you can use to interact with the S4 — although I rarely had a need to do so — and a manual dial you use to adjust the cutting height, which ranges from 1.6 to 3.2 inches. There's a giant red STOP button that you can press to immediately stop the S4 in case of an emergency.

Underneath the stop button is the handle I previously mentioned. The S4 is rear-wheel driven with two trolley wheels that spin and move wherever the two rear wheels push the robot. Sunseeker's specs put the max gradient at 22 degrees — a stat that didn't apply to my mostly flat backyard. However, there's a slight slope to my front yard (I've never measured it), but the S4 didn't have any issues with slipping, even if the grass was wet.

When you flip the S4 over, you'll see six blades attached to a disc. It always amazes me when I test a robot lawnmower how small the blades are; they often look like razor blades you'd find in a box cutter.

Sunseeker S4 review: Installation and mapping

Setting up the S4 was a breeze. You'll first need to decide where you want to — and can — install the charging station. It measures 30 x 19 x 14.5 inches and can be placed at the edge of your yard, or even outside of it if you'd rather. You'll need a weatherproof electrical outlet nearby.

I already had a section of my yard that'd been killed by previous robot lawnmower docks, so it was an easy choice for me. I swapped out the old broken station and replaced it with the Sunseeker S4 in about 10 minutes. After sliding the S4 into the charging station, I created an account in the Sunseeker app, connected the S4 to my account and waited for the battery to fully charge.

The app walked me through the initial mapping of my yard, which required me to drive the S4 to a starting point along the edge of my grass. At that point, I could either continue to use my phone as a Bluetooth remote control and manually map my yard, or I could let the S4 automatically roam around the edge and create a map on its own. I stood by, ready to take over if needed, but the S4 slowly and judiciously creeped along the edge of my grass.

The S4 is the first robot lawnmower I've used that maps on its own, and I was impressed. There were a few areas I had to go back and manually drive the S4 over, adding to the existing map, but it was a much easier and streamlined process than I'd experienced with the EcoFlow Blade.

After mapping my backyard, I created a second zone, consisting of my front yard and let the S4 work its magic with mapping. There are a couple of trees in that yard, along with more corners and angled sections — unlike my backyard that has three flat edges. The S4 needed a little more help with correcting the front yard's map, but overall the process was simple.

So simple, in fact, I deleted both maps in the app and went through the process multiple times with similar results. You can save maps in the Sunseeker app and easily switch between them, which is also a nice touch.

My favorite part of mapping my yard, however, wasn't how easy it was, but instead it was the 3D map the LiDAR sensor created that I could view in the app.

It's one thing to read that a device has LiDAR and assume it'll help with object identification, navigation and mapping — but it's another to actually see what the S4 sees, down to the batting cage in the back corner of my yard along with the power and cable lines that run above my yard.

As far as object detection and avoidance goes, the S4 routinely routed itself around objects as big as my English Bulldog who walks in front of it daily, or as small as a Wiffle ball my kids leave in the yard. I didn’t expect it to see the latter at all and run it over instead, but once it gets within a few inches, it stops, slightly turns and goes around it.

Sunseeker S4 review: Performance

With two zones created, I used the Sunseeker app to create a path between them. I then set a schedule for Zone 1, the backyard, to be mowed Monday-Friday between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. There's a gate between my yards, so I couldn't set a schedule for Zone 2 as I have to manually open and close the gate when the robot needs to get through.

According to the Sunseeker app, Zone 1 is 3,184.96 square feet and Zone 2 is 2,690 square feet, for a total of 5,874.96 square feet between the two.

The initial pass over my backyard with grass — which was longer than I'd like to admit — required a couple of trips to the charging station. The S4 ran for around 90 minutes each time, and then took a couple of hours to charge before heading back out to complete the task.

The same can be said about mowing the front yard, which I asked it to do the following day. That process was tedious, only because I had to monitor the battery status in the app to let the S4 into the backyard so it could charge, and then let it back out once the battery was full. In total, it was two trips back and forth.

However, after that initial cut, the S4's cut time has dropped significantly. The backyard does require a return trip to charge for a little over an hour, then it heads back out for 20 minutes to finish the job. In total, it takes just under 2 hours of cutting time to mow the backyard — or just over 3 hours if you include charging time.

If I'm paying attention, I can catch it right after it finishes the backyard and manually redirect it to the front yard. From there, it tackles the rest of the lawn and returns to the dock on its own, completely finished in roughly an hour and forty-five minutes.

As for how good of a job it does at cutting grass, for the first few sessions it'd leave little rows of grass between each pass with the default cutting direction setting. However, after switching the cutting direction to traceless, which means each time the S4 cuts it changes direction, those missed rows have disappeared. If you’d prefer to have patterns cut in your yard, you can set the S4 to create items like a heart, a trophy, a star, or a soccer ball. It can also cut a pattern to represent numbers.

My lone complaint about the cutting performance of the S4 can be said about any of the robot lawnmowers I've owned — none of them can cut the edge of the yard. For the S4, it has a cutting width of 7 inches, but there's 4.3 inches between the edge of the lawnmower's housing and the blades. So, no matter how close you get the map to the edge of your grass, there's always going to be a small section of grass it just can't cut.

It's a fair trade, I guess. Instead of having to bribe my son to mow the yard maybe once every two weeks, my yards are mowed multiple times a week.

Sunseeker S4 review: Storage & maintenance

The S4's charging station serves as the main storage area for the robot when not in use. Along with charging it, there's an overhang to protect the top of the S4, complete with a brush to keep the LiDAR bubble clean. If you want more protection, Sunseeker sells a Sunproof Garage that extends the protection to the entire lawnmower.

During the winter months — and for that matter if you're expecting a lot of rain — I'd recommend removing the S4 from the dock and moving it indoors. During my testing, I had a rainstorm come through that dumped two inches of rain on us in an hour. It took me a couple of days to notice the S4 hadn't run on its set schedule, and upon further inspection I realized it wasn't even turning on.

I turned it upside down, removed the battery and let it dry out for a day, after which it came back to life. I have no idea how high the water got in my yard, but I do know there was standing water most of the night.

It's a good reminder that even though the S4 has an IPX6 waterproof rating, it's still susceptible to the elements.

As for routine maintenance on the S4, the Sunseeker app has a device maintenance menu that tracks when you should replace the blades (after 120 hours of use) and when you should wash the cutting disc (after 60 hours of use).

Otherwise, keeping the front camera and the LiDAR bubble clean are the only things you need to worry about.

Sunseeker S4 review: Verdict

This was my first time using a Sunseeker robot lawnmower, and it did not disappoint. My yard hasn't consistently looked this good in years. The Sunseeker S4 was easy to set up, forgoing the need to install a dedicated GPS antenna like the EcoFlow Blade, or bury a guide wire like previous Husqvarna mowers I've used.

Battery life is good enough for its 0.25-acre limit, and after fine-tuning the settings you'll get a clean cut every time.

Well, except for the edges. Make sure to keep a trimmer handy.

Hollyhocks are my absolute favorite flowers, ever, and I'm lucky enough to have a few of these beauties in my own garden. They are the ultimate cottage garden classic: tall with large, gorgeous blooms, the kind of plant that just commands attention. But they can also be incredibly frustrating.

It’s a classic gardening letdown, isn't it? You spend all summer admiring those towering stalks, only for them to vanish, leaving you wondering if you did something wrong. The trick to a reliable yearly display, however, is simply working with their natural two-year lifecycle.

By spending just a minute at the end of the season to guide their seeding process, you can easily establish a permanent, self-sustaining patch that comes back every summer.

• Ditch the bark mulch: Hardwood bark mulch chips act like a shield. Hollyhock seeds need direct contact with the soil and consistent summer moisture to germinate. If you must mulch for weed control, switch to a thin layer of rich, well-rotted compost, which naturally breaks down into a loose, fertile seedbed.
  
• Keep soil exposed and untilled: Ensure the ground immediately surrounding your current hollyhocks is slightly exposed. Avoid digging up or tilling this area in the autumn, as you will bury the dropped seeds too deep. They prefer to sit right on the surface.
  
• Learn to recognize the 'Babies': In the autumn or early the following spring, tiny new hollyhock leaves will begin to carpet the ground. They look like small, fuzzy, rounded green saucers with scalloped edges. Learn to spot them immediately so you don't accidentally pull them up during your seasonal weeding sessions.

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• This is what's really causing your tomato leaves to curl — and how to actually fix it
• Forget buying new seeds: these 9 gorgeous flowers come back for free every year
• How to sharpen a lawn mower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

I've been having trouble with my tomatoes. As part of my grow-it-yourself mission this year, I planted a variety of vegetables in spring that I was hoping I'd be harvesting by now for some delicious summer salads. Unfortunately, my garden has had other plans. Despite taking top tips from an Italian farmer and I've even adopting a 3-step pruning system, I'm still always on the lookout for more ways to help my tomatoes grow.

And I've recently stumbled upon a cheap and potentially genius gardening hack that could be my answer to high-yield and hopefully ripe tomatoes. It turns out all I need is to keep the simple kitchen scrap that I've been throwing away for years – fish scraps.

Here's what happened when I gave it a try.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @selfsufficientme (also known as Mark Valencia) shares his gardening tips to over 230k followers and it's one of his most popular videos of all time with 3 million views and counting that I found particularly interesting – using fish scraps for great tomatoes.

In the video above, Mark carries out an experiment where he buries fish scraps in the soil alongside his tomato plants and then plants a section with no fish scraps to see the difference as they grow. For this, he used two fish heads and no other fertilizer for one and nothing at all for the other. He then pruned and watered the plants the same to see how they'd fare.

While he noticed that the no fish heads tomato plant was growing better to begin with, as well as having the first ripe tomatoes, it quickly changed. He says once they both produced tomatoes: "It was noticeable that the fish head tomatoes were also producing more fruit. After the five to six month mark in October, there was a considerable difference beginning to show between the two plants.

"The ones with the fish head were still growing strong with much better fruit and foliage growth than the ones without the fish head which were pale, dying back and had practically stopped producing new tomatoes."

The fish works as a fertilizer around the tomato plants roots and as it decomposes, it releases nutrients like phosphorus and potassium that the tomato plant can thrive on. While I thought it was strange that I'd never heard of it before, I figured it was time for me to give it a go.

Here's what happened when I tried it

Admittedly, when I first saw Mark's video, I thought it was kind of gross. I don't tend to cut up whole raw fish regularly, but I do from time to time. Since I was planning on firing up my grill this summer, I figured it would be a good time to give it a go.

While I'd usually just opt to throw the fish scraps away quickly, this time I held on to them.

Yes, I was tempted to buy the fish emulsion fertilizer straight from the shops; I also knew from Mark's video that it would be better to try this out with fresh fish to hopefully get the best results (and that it would also be a lot cheaper). So, I chopped up some bits of fish and buried them down into the soil where I was planting my tomato plants.

For now, I'm not at the stage where I can pass a judgment on how well my tomato plants are doing because it'll take some time. But, I can happily say that it was relatively fuss-free and I can now truly feel like I'm not wasting anything when buying a whole fish as I'm utilizing every single part of it. Plus, the grilled fish in itself was an extra treat.

So, it didn't cost me any additional cash to try it out and I'm pretty hopeful that from Mark's results, I'll be able to yield some lovely ripe tomatoes in a two to three months time. I'm just hoping they don't taste like fish when I get round to eating them...

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• This cheap garden hack will help your roses grow — and all you need is a few old tea bags
• I've just discovered this strange hack that'll keep pests away from your plants — and it uses a popular cold medicine
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

As temperatures start soaring, getting a comfortable night’s sleep during a sweltering heatwave can often be a nightmare. Even if you run your fan on full blast, the constant whirring sound can be just as disturbing — while quietly driving up your electricity bills overnight.

Fortunately, I've just discovered a smart way to help you stay cool at night without costing you. Not only is it a simple and practically ‘free’, but it involves a common bathroom staple that everyone has.

So if you want a quick way to chill out, check out this simple yet genius trick to help you survive a heatwave.

Hang a damp towel in front of your window

According to home experts, cracking open a window and draping a sheet or towel thoroughly soaked in cold water right in front of the breeze serves as a brilliant hack to cool your room's temperature.

This strange method works by instantly chilling the incoming outdoor heat as it flows through the wet material, blowing a refreshing breeze straight into your space. Essentially, the moisture from the towel absorbs the warmth from the outdoor air right at the window before it can flow inside your room.

So how can you do this? Simply fill a bowl or sink with water, and slightly dampen your towel (don’t soak it, or else it won’t work). Next, hang the towel in front of an open window to maximize the breeze, or if you prefer, you can also hang a towel across a doorway.

You’ll start to notice that your bedroom should feel considerably cooler and more comfortable throughout the evening (without any noise). Once the towel has dried out, simply re-dampen it, and replace What’s more, this uses zero electricity and will further save you on your energy bills — a win-win.

Alternatively, a sleep expert has suggested another strange hack to keep cool — sleep in damp socks! “This is an extremely strange one, but definitely hear me out,” adds Dr Deborah Lee, sleep expert from Doctor Fox working with Comfybedss.

“Wearing a pair of slightly damp cotton socks to bed can help us bring our core body temperature down through a process called evaporative cooling.

Our feet play a huge part in helping our body’s temperature regulate, so keeping them cool is vital and has a knock-on effect on the whole body. Rinse the socks out under the tap, wring them up so they’re not dripping and pop them on before bedtime.”

So if you ever want a quick way to instantly cool down your bedroom in a heatwave — or you're stuck without a fan, put your bathroom towels to good use instead.

More from Tom's Guide

• Frozen bed sheets and cold spoons — weird tips for how to sleep cool during a heatwave
• 5 ways to prepare your AC for a heatwave
• How to cool down a room in a heatwave — 10 essential tips

Summer is here, and it's the ideal time to get outdoors in your backyard and enjoy the weather. However, foul odors coming from your composting bin can quickly ruin that outdoor enjoyment. This is especially true if you plan to host Fourth of July festivities.

Learning how to make compost at home is an eco-friendly and cost-effective way to transform organic waste into valuable nutrients for our gardens and lawn care. But if your compost bin is starting to smell rancid in the heat, you could be making one of these composting mistakes.

Whether it's throwing the wrong waste into the bin, not turning it over enough, or excess moisture, these can all contribute to your compost smelling bad. Luckily, this can be resolved with a few quick fixes that won’t take much time.

So if you want to quickly get rid of horrid compost smells this summer, try these top tips.

1. Sprinkle baking soda to absorb odors

Baking soda may be a pantry staple, but it’s also known for its natural deodorizing properties. In fact, I have a bowl in my fridge to eliminate lingering odors, and there are many ways to use baking soda in your yard.

Simply sprinkle baking soda over your compost heap once you detect a whiff. This should help absorb lingering odors and prevent them from causing a stench.

Bear in mind to apply this remedy with a light hand, as overdoing it can actually stifle beneficial microbial activity and heavily stall the breakdown process.

2. Regularly turn over your compost

Typically, materials high in nitrogen content are the worst culprits when it comes to making a stench. Not only do you need the correct 3:1 ratio of brown to green materials by volume, but you also need to turn it over periodically.

Just like growing plants, compost also needs oxygen and water to produce top-quality, healthy soil.

As it’s decomposing, the middle of your heap can easily become deprived of oxygen, requiring a bit of aeration. Thoroughly mixing the mixture helps it break down much faster while preventing organic waste from compacting and creating a rancid stench.

You can easily introduce oxygen throughout the heap by using a garden fork or spade to mix it well. Just be careful not to overfill the bin; otherwise, you won't have adequate space to turn the contents over without making a mess.

In fact, compost tumblers are super easy to use. These feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to all parts.

3. Throw in more brown materials

Another reason for smelly compost could be that your pile is too wet from overwatering (or even underwatering).

While keeping your heap damp with a light misting is fine, avoid giving too much or too little water. Excessive moisture can quickly drown your pile, suffocating the beneficial microbes that break down the waste. This common composting mistake creates a foul odor, causing the materials to rot rather than break down properly.

One solution is to add in some dry brown materials (like garden waste or cardboard) to absorb the excess liquid, or give it a good turn with a garden fork to increase aeration. On the other hand, if your compost looks completely dry and brittle, simply add more fresh green waste and sprinkle it with a bit of water to restore moisture.

Furthermore, the benefits of composting extend beyond just enriching our yards.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Your peace lily won't survive winter if you don't change these 5 things
• Stop killing your grass: 5 safe de-icing methods you need to know

Summer is here, and we’re not the only ones who are feeling parched in the heat. If you take pride in your lush and green grass, it can be disheartening when you notice yellow patches suddenly appearing that quickly ruin the overall look.

This is especially the case if you’re hosting those backyard barbecues or gatherings. So if you’ve been watering and maintaining your yard, you’re probably wondering why you have yellow patches in your lawn.

We’ve called on the gardening and lawn care experts at hand to share their top tips on how to get rid of those discolored spots on your lawn and what causes them in the first place. So, read on if you want to revive and bring your lawn back to life this summer.

What causes the yellow patches in my lawn?

Essentially, a yellowing lawn is common when the weather switches from heavy rain to a sudden dry spell. Scientifically, this yellowing is known as chlorosis.

Particularly, when grass undergoes stress, the green chlorophyll breaks down, and this process exposes the underlying yellow carotenoid pigments that are typically concealed during healthier periods.

According to experts, there are various causes for your lackluster lawn. One obvious reason could be not watering your lawn adequately during hot spells, which can dry out the soil. Ideally, you should water deeply and infrequently, as this helps the roots grow stronger and penetrate deeper into the soil.

“If you notice yellow patches in your lawn, it might be a sign that you are overwatering or underwatering your grass,” said Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

Basically, if your grass looks dry, turns brown, or has a crispy texture to it, you're likely under-watering, and your grass is parched. But if the grass is constantly soggy, has yellowing patches, or shows signs of mold or fungus, it’s a clear sign of overwatering, and you should reduce the amount of water your lawn is getting.

“The best way to tell what your lawn needs is through a quick soil check," Koenig said. "If it feels compacted and doesn’t absorb water well, you may be overwatering, while a dry, hard soil signals that your lawn needs more moisture.”

Another reason could be diseases or pests, in particular chaffer grubs and leatherjackets that are known to feed directly on the grass roots, literally sucking out the water and essential nutrients it needs to thrive.

“As they feed directly on the roots of the grass, they sever your lawn’s connection to its water and nutrient supply,” adds Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert working for Online Turf.

“In terms of diseases, Fusarium is a common culprit since it often shows up as small, yellow, circular patches. To treat it, reduce the amount of thatch and loosen the soil by scarifying and aerating your lawn. Additionally, avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Instead, use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen but high in potassium.”

Furthermore, for those with furry companions, discolored spots frequently stem from animal waste. “Pet urine can also cause those yellow or brown spots on your lawn because of the high nitrogen levels, which essentially burn the grass,” explained Koenig.

“To prevent these spots, one effective approach is to immediately water the area where your pet has urinated," Koenig said. "This dilutes the nitrogen and prevents it from "burning" the grass, preventing the brown spots from appearing. You can also try training your pet to use a designated area of the yard, such as a gravel or mulch patch, where the urine won’t harm your lawn.”

How do I fix any yellow patches?

First, it’s advisable to start with a soil test to help you determine the pH levels and what nutrients it’s deficient in.

"This will help you determine the pH levels of the soil as well as if it has adequate nutrients and organic matter present," said Theresa Smith, the SVP at NaturaLawn of America.

“If the soil test results show signs of the soil having adequate nutrient content, then you know the yellowing or browning of the grass is being caused by an environmental factor or is under physical stress”.

So, once you have established the cause for your discolored grass, how do you fix your unsightly patches? "The best way to fix this is by overseeding,” advises Zaber.

“Overseeding is a practice of spreading grass seed onto an already existing lawn to thicken it and give it that healthy, green appearance. Start by mowing, then scarifying and aerating the soil.

“Then, spread the seed at a rate of 25 grams per square meter and add a light layer of topsoil on top. This will improve the seed-to-soil contact, which is critical for good germination rates, and also protect the seeds from being eaten by birds or blown away by wind.”

Bear in mind that you may need a period of two to four weeks for initial growth, though achieving a fully restored, and lush lawn can take up to six months.“Grass usually takes around 2-4 weeks to germinate, depending on the weather. However, to fully establish, it can take up to 6 months,” added Zaber.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

Lawncare essentials we love

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• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

Every spring, my local gardening Facebook page starts filling up with countless pictures of three-leaved plants, each one framed with the same question: "Is this poison ivy?"

It's a legitimate concern. Poison ivy is not only invasive, but can cause a severe allergic reaction if you get its oils on your skin. I've had more than enough rashes over the course of my life to look askance at any plant that even remotely resembles poison ivy.

Rather than post something on my local social network and wait for would-be horticulturists to reply, I've started using a new Google Gemini feature on my phone to find out more quickly if the plant I'm about to grab will leave me itching and scratching.

Here's how you can use Gemini to identify poison ivy (or any other plant, for that matter), works on both Android and iOS devices, and it takes just seconds.

Using Google Lens to identify plants isn't exactly the newest thing around, but as I've been going around my yard pulling plants, I've found it to be helpful in avoiding poison ivy. I have several other types of ivy and three-leaved plants, so it's been very useful while weeding. It's also come in handy if I'm out for a hike, and come across a new tree or shrub I haven't seen before.

So, just like Grampa's Weeder, this has become yet another important tool in my gardening kit.

More from Tom's Guide

• This Stihl hand pruner has been so popular with my neighbors that one of them is buying it for her husband for Father’s Day
• How to double your tomato harvest — the 3-step pruning system for massive yields
• Stop your hydrangea blooms from turning brown too early with these 3 top tips

Let's say you hired someone to repaint your pool so the water looked more blue, only to find out that he then refilled it with water from a local river, which promptly turned a deep shade of green. Yes, you could shock it with hydrogen peroxide and chlorine, but that could cause the new paint to peel off.

There's another option: Get a robotic pool cleaner to handle the mess. And for Prime Day, you can find a lot on sale, often for a steep discount. For example, the Beatbot Sora 70 is now $500 off on Amazon, which brings its price down to under $1,000.

But that's not the only robot pool cleaner deal you can find today. Here's five we found, so you can keep your pool clean all summer long — and you don't have to lift a finger.

• Dreame Robotic Pool Cleaner: was $599 now $399 @ Amazon
• Aiper Scuba V3: was $1,399 now $799 @ Amazon
• Beatbot Sora 70: was $1,499 now $999 @ Amazon
• Aiper Scuba X1 Pro Max: was $2,289 now $1,999 @ Amazon
• Beatbot AquaSense 2 Ultra: was $3,150 now $1,999 @ Amazon

There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes — freshly picked off the vine and straight into your tasty meals. Even though these crops are the easiest to grow, it can be disappointing when your harvest lacks the punchy, vibrant flavor you hoped for.

In fact, this once happened to me, and it was such a let-down, especially after all my hard efforts. This time around, however, I’ve reached out to professional gardeners to uncover why this happens and to give me their top tips for ensuring a flavorsome crop.

So, if you don’t want to end up with a disappointing harvest, here are the three essential factors that determine whether your tomatoes will be packed with tasty flavor.

1. Choose the right variety

One key factor behind your bland tomato harvest could be the variety you’re growing. According to experts, you can choose certain varieties based not only on fruit size and color, but also on certain flavors. Some tomatoes are simply not as flavorful as others.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D. Horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield.

"Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before picking out your plants to grow, it is worth considering your preferred taste/flavor and researching which specific varieties match your desired taste profile. That should hopefully save you a lot of disappointment when these are ready for the picking.

For more planting tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. Let your tomatoes soak up the sun

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants and need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help them produce more fruit. Without adequate sunshine, plants struggle to photosynthesize and produce complex sugars and acids in the fruit. This essentially gives our tomato crop their tasty flavor.

"Think of the sun like a solar panel for homegrown tomato flavor — it gives them the fuel and energy they need to perform their best,” adds Corinne Beirne, gardening coach and founder of The Nourished Garden.

“Letting them ripen on the vine versus ripening them on your windowsill will maximize taste too, especially after they've been sitting in the sun for a while without too much water before a harvest." What’s more, low-light conditions are known to cause watery, bland fruit that lacks sweetness.

In addition, knowing when the right time to pick your tomatoes is can make all the difference. “For optimal flavor, tomatoes should be harvested at the right time,” adds Mercer. “Pick when the fruit has started to turn its mature color and pulls easily from the vine.

“Finish ripening it at room temperature. Tomatoes picked too early may not develop as much flavor as fruit that ripened longer on the plant.”

3. Avoid overwatering your tomatoes

While the summer heat might tempt you to reach for the hose more often, overwatering or saturating your tomato crop can actually dilute its final taste and flavor. The general rule of thumb is to water only when the top two inches of soil start to dry.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer. “Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll want to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering. You can also add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This is because fish contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all needed for healthy growth.

"I like to use a good organic fish fertilizer like Neptune's because it nourishes both the plant and the soil without being too harsh,” suggests Beirne.

“Healthy, nutritious soil provides the right conditions for the plant to produce the most flavorful fruit."

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

Ever since I moved into my house, I’ve always entertained the fantasy of building an outdoor pizza oven — laying the brick, shaping the dome, and then enjoying the fruits of a wood-fired pizza.

That dream has never gone away, even as I’ve tested a number of the best pizza ovens in my yard. However, having used the Gozney Dome XL for the past six months, I might spare myself the trouble (and my wife the aggravation) of building my own oven.

That’s because the Dome XL has just about everything you could possibly ask for in a pizza oven: a massive internal chamber, dual-fuel capabilities, and a great design that will make your patio look oh so Pinterest. But, this is also one of the largest — and most expensive — pizza ovens I've ever tested. It's overkill for many, but if you're serious about pizza (and have the dough to spend), this is the splurge model to get.

Gozney Dome XL (gen 2): Price

The Dome XL sits at the top of Gozney’s lineup, at $2,799. You can get it in either black or an off-white bone. I’ve been using the latter, and it will show soot deposits above the opening — which could be a sign of authenticity or unsightliness, depending on your tastes.

The Dome XL is large enough to accommodate one 18-inch pie, two 12-inch pies, or three 10-inchers; if your needs are more modest,

Gozney also makes the Dome (Gen 2) for $2,299, which offers all the same functions, but can fit either one 16-inch pizza or two 10-inch pizzas. I’ve rarely baked more than one pie at a time, so it’s probably the more sensible option for most.

Design

This thing is MASSIVE. The Gozney Dome XL (Gen 2) is more than 3 feet wide, 2 feet deep, stands 39.3 inches tall, and weighs 161 pounds. It’s so big that it was delivered on a pallet, and I needed to get a neighbor to help me lift it on the pedestal.

Fortunately, Gozney thought ahead, and provided straps on all the corners to make it easier to lift. If you’re considering buying this, make sure whatever surface you’re planning to place it on has a lot of support.

The Dome (especially the bone model) looks kinda like a big hamburger: The top and bottom “buns” are gently rounded, while the middle is wrapped in stainless steel.

The stand is pretty tall. I’m about 6 feet, which places the oven’s opening just below eye level. If you’re of shorter stature, you may find it’s a bit too high for comfort.

A large vent pipe extends out the top. If you bought the Dome stand along with the Dome, you’ll find it’s a little tricky to place the cap on the top of the vent pipe, as it’s waayyy up in the air.

Below the mouth of the oven is a module with a color LCD display that displays the internal temperature of the oven as well as the temperature of the pizza stone.

To the right is a control knob used to adjust the gas flame; to the left is a small control pad to adjust settings, like setting a timer. Next to it are two ports to which you can attach temperature probes, so you can use the oven to more precisely cook meat or other proteins.

If you purchase the wood-fire control kit, it comes with a little control unit that slots into the right side of the oven. Inside is a small fan, and a knob on the exterior lets you control the amount of air that gets blown into the chamber. It’s ringed with LEDs, so it was really easy to see if I had the fan on low or a higher setting. And, this controller also links via Bluetooth to the main control unit on the Gozney, so you can monitor everything from one spot.

Both controllers use a rechargeable battery, which slides easily into each unit. The batteries have small LEDs so you know how much charge you have left, and come with USB-C ports, so you can juice them up as easily as your phone.

Performance

As a dual-fuel oven, you can either use propane (or natural gas) or wood to heat up the oven. The gas flame comes out of the left side of the chamber, and the wood basket sits on the right. To test the oven, I used both propane and wood separately, and got equally consistent results. The curved interior of the Gozney allowed the flames and heat to curl over nicely from either side.

Using a little firestarter, it was very easy to get the wood burning, and the large size of the basket meant that I didn’t have to cut up the wood into tiny chunks, as I had to with other wood-fired pizza ovens, such as the older Ooni Karu. While baking with wood requires a bit more work — you have to make sure the fire doesn't go out, for one thing — it's a lot more satisfying than cooking with gas.

As with all pizza ovens, I let the Gozney Dome heat up for a good 30 to 40 minutes, to get its stone up to temperature. After that, it performed spectacularly well, making everything to perfection.

Gozney says that the Dome can fit pizzas up to 18 inches in diameter; I was able to comfortably fit a 16-inch pizza pie, but any larger, and it would have been a bit trickier to turn, and would put one edge pretty close to the flame.

The Dome did a fantastic job baking the pies, though. The gas knob allowed me to fine-tune the heat, which let me make both Neapolitan and New York-style pizzas, so I could get either a puffy, leopard crust or an evenly browned finish.

Accessories

Accessories include a $499 stand, which raises the oven up to about five feet, has two trays on either side, a platform for a propane tank, and a small tray for holding other items.

If you’re investing this much in a pizza oven, I would also recommend you pick up a cover — the one for the oven costs $89, and the one that protects the oven and stand is $99. It’s proved more than durable, having guarded the oven through two blizzards. And, it’s provided shelter for my cat when it rains.

A wood-fire control kit costs $199, and includes a metal rack to contain the wood and a module that fits into the side of the oven, and lets you regulate how much air is blown in. In my testing, it worked fantastic, and integrated perfectly with the main control unit on the oven.

Gozney also sells an assortment of peels, cutters, and other pizza-related products, most of which you can find elsewhere, and probably for less.

I will say, though, that its $44 pizza cutter is one of the best I’ve ever used. It’s solidly built, and has one of the sharpest blades ever. And, you can easily unscrew it to clean out cheese and other bits.

Bottom line

The Gozney Dome XL doesn’t come cheap, and it’s a lot more pizza oven than most will ever need. As I said above, the next step after this is building your own pizza oven. If you’re just starting out, I would recommend one of the best pizza ovens that costs less than $500, like the Solo Pi Prime or the Ooni Koda 2. You’ll get just as good results.

What separates the Gozney Dome XL is all the extras: The size, the design, the controls, and all those bits that will signal to your neighbors that, when it comes to pizza, you’re not messing around. If you get this and make nothing but cheese and pepperoni pies, Gozney should have the right to take it back. This is the ultimate pizza oven for those who are really serious about their craft, and want something that looks as good as the pies it makes.

As the warmer weather arrives, there is nothing quite like seeing hydrangeas ready to showcase their vibrant blooms for the summer.

And with their bright blooms of blue hues, white, and pinks, hydrangeas can instantly add a splash of color to a backyard or porch plant. That’s why it can be disheartening when you start to see them turning brown too early.

Of course, once these colorful displays have finished their summer show, the dried flowers make a stunning addition to autumnal floral decor — but you don’t want that during the summer!

So if you’re wondering why your hydrangea blooms are turning brown so early, here's the reasons why and how to prevent it.

Not watering enough

Typically, hydrangeas are ‘thirsty’ plants, and once the soil dries out completely they can droop, with leaves wilting, blooms browning and generally looking worse for wear.

As a rule of thumb, established hydrangeas need roughly one inch of water weekly to thrive, aiming for a deep soaking once every 5 to 7 days. While newly planted hydrangeas should be watered a few times a week (around three inches) to help them get started and grow healthily.

Another top tip is to avoid overhead sprinklers with hand-watering, drip irrigation or hoses being the better option. This ensures that water is given low and slow so that it gets to the roots better. For best results, aim to water during the early morning hours; this allows any moisture that splashes onto the petals to evaporate quickly before the day heats up.

Too much direct sunlight

Another reason for your hydrangeas' browning blooms is direct sunlight, as they can’t cope with scorching heat. Similar to ourselves basking in the sun for too long, this can often cause sunburn and cause blooms to turn brown too early. This is particularly the case for big-leaf varieties.

In fact, your hydrangea will thrive better in morning sunlight (before the temperatures start to rise during the day) or afternoon shade.

.To prevent brown blooms, it’s best to either transplant your hydrangea plants to a more shaded location in your yard or consider adding companion plants that can provide afternoon shade.

In addition, you can keep plants cool by applying a layer of mulch around the base to keep the soil cool in the summer. Simply add a two-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help retain moisture, and it also helps to keep weed growth at bay.

Soil isn’t balanced

Furthermore, it is vital to ensure your soil pH is correctly balanced. A common mistake is to overfertilize our plants, especially when we notice our hydrangeas are starting to look a bit worse for wear.

If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it can cause flowers to turn brown prematurely. This is mainly due to a build-up of salt in the soil that can affect healthy growth and bigger blooms.

This is why it is always recommended to test your soil first, as adding more fertilizer without checking can often lead to further issues.

Another rather unusual hack is to perk up your hydrangeas with coffee grounds. Thanks to its slightly acidic quality and high carbon content, coffee grounds are beneficial to plants, contributing organic matter to the soil.

In addition, they also contain nitrogen, which is essential in the spring for promoting bigger flowers and strong stems.

Simply add around a tablespoon of coffee grounds into a spray bottle or watering can to make a weak ‘tea’. Then water your hydrangeas with the weak brew once a month until summer arrives. This is why gardeners are being urged to use old coffee grounds to feed hydrangeas now, just in time for the summer.

So, if you notice your hydrangea blooms are beginning to discolor, there is still time to revitalize them so they can finish the summer looking their very best.

For more top tips, check out how to grow hydrangeas from cuttings and avoid these hydrangea pruning mistakes. Knowing how to prune hydrangeas can keep this beautiful plant in check for spring and future seasons.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
• Hydrangea not blooming? Here’s why and how to fix the problem
• How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings — easy steps to get more blooms

What DIY dad doesn’t love a chainsaw? There’s something about owning a power tool that can dismember with the ability to dismember you that brings a little extra excitement to your outdoor chores.

But, there’s a lot of times when even the smallest chainsaw is overkill. You don’t want to look like a horror movie villain just to prune a couple of branches. For the past few months, I’ve been testing the Stihl GTA 30, an electrical pruner that’s perfect for those times when a chainsaw is too much, but a pair of loppers isn’t nearly enough. And, it’s made some of my yardwork so much easier.

The GTA 30 is basically a mini-chainsaw; it has just a 6-inch blade, and is small and light enough that you can use it one-handed. Despite its smaller size compared to even a small chainsaw, I was able to easily cut through 4-inch branches. And, because it can be used with just one hand, I was able to use my other hand to pull aside branches that were in the way.

For example, I had to remove a bush that died, but was inconveniently wedged in between two others; I was able to hold branches in one hand while I used the GTA 30 to work my way down to the base, where it sliced through the trunk like butter.

The GTA 30, which is new for this year, is an upgraded (and more expensive) version of the GTA 26. The GTA 30 has a 6-inch bar and two batteries, where the GTA 26 has a 4-inch bar and a single battery slot.

The GTA 26 kit, which includes the saw, a battery, and a charger, costs $199; the GTA 30 kit, which has the saw, two batteries, and a charger, costs $329. I suspect most will be able to use the GTA 26 just fine, but it is nice to have the longer battery charge and reach of the GTA 30.

Cleverly, the GTA 30 is designed to be used by either righties or lefties; there’s a safety switch on either side that you have to hold down with your thumb before you can pull the trigger. It's a small detail, but a nice one.

Two batteries slot into the handle of the GTA 30, and there’s a small battery indicator further up; I didn’t time it, but I cut a lot of branches before I had to recharge the batteries.

Adjusting the tension on the saw chain was pretty simple, too. You just unlock and turn a small knob on the side of the saw to remove the protective cover, and then you can move the bar around easily to get the tension that you need.

I quickly ran out of things to prune in my yard, so I lent it to my neighbors, who quickly put it to use cutting down privets and other low-hanging branches. They all found it dead simple to use.

Perhaps the greatest validation came when one of them sent me a text, asking for its name, so that she could surprise her husband on Father’s Day. Hopefully he doesn’t read this until then. Hopefully he likes it just as much as I do!

More from Tom's Guide

• I tried a new method to clean my pruning shears — here's why it can't beat my time-honored routine
• Best pruning shears: Tested and rated
• 5 hydrangea pruning mistakes you need to avoid

Now that warmer temperatures are upon us, we’re not the only ones who will be feeling the heat. Our lush lawns and plants are also parched from the heat wave, and when there are no signs of rain anytime soon, it’s not uncommon for us to increase our watering routine.

Besides knowing the best time to water your lawn, you’ll also need to know how to water your yard the right way. In fact, this can make all the difference in maintaining healthy growth. What’s more, you could be wasting water (and effort) — literally pouring money down the drain.

A gardening expert has warned of this one common watering habit we often make when watering our yards. In fact, you could be inadvertently killing your plants instead.

So before you unreel your hose or set your sprinklers, don’t make this common mistake this summer.

Don't just water the surface of the soil

According to experts, it’s not the amount of water that will make your plants thrive during summer — it’s how you water. Most often, we only sprinkle the top layer of the soil and do not allow the roots to get a proper ‘drink’.

“One of the most common mistakes I see is frequent shallow watering,” states Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and Horticultural Advisor to Platinum Spas.

“A quick sprinkle may dampen the surface of the soil, but it rarely reaches the roots where plants actually need moisture. In hot weather, much of that water can simply evaporate before it has any real benefit.”

So what’s the best method to water our yard and ensure it’s getting the right amount of hydration? “Instead, gardeners should focus on watering deeply and thoroughly at the base of the plant. The aim is always to get moisture down to the root zone.

“This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, creating stronger and more resilient plants that are better equipped to cope with dry periods.”

Additionally, experts suggest that your lawn soil should be moist 5 to 6 inches beneath the surface — however, deep watering extends this to 7 to 8 inches deep. The idea behind deep watering is to encourage deep root growth, which keeps the roots cooler and stronger, protecting your lawn during heat stress.

For more top tips on watering your lawn, check out how to water a thirsty lawn in a heatwave — lawn experts reveal all.

Avoid watering little and often

Similarly, gardeners often fall into the trap of watering little and often during the hot summer months. However, this habit can literally kill your plants, causing the roots to stay near the surface, where they are prone to drying out rapidly.

“Watering little and often can actually create weaker plants because the roots remain close to the surface where they dry out more quickly,” adds Mabey. “By watering deeply and consistently, you'll use water more efficiently while encouraging healthier growth.

“For containers and newly planted specimens, it's particularly important to monitor moisture levels during warm weather, as they can dry out much faster than established plants growing in the ground.”

So it’s always best to water your lawn and plants deeply and evenly during a heatwave. If you’re in doubt as to whether you’re giving your grass too much water, check out how often you should water your lawn in a heatwave.

Gardening watering essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardening expert reveals the best time of day to water your tomato plant — you could be making this big mistake
• Garden experts share the best time to water your lawn — and I've been getting it all wrong
• How to water your garden less — 8 expert tips that save money and help your plants

My plants have been looking a little weary lately. I'm tempted to blame the sunny weather, but I fear that I'm just not giving them the attention they need. So, I headed to social media to see if I could find a hack that would help me out (and not cost me a lot of money).

After lots of searching, I finally stumbled upon something I'd never heard of before – using matches to create my very own plant-boosting fertilizer. It's a staple of my messy kitchen drawer that I usually only pull out when I need to light a birthday candle. Suddenly, I'm looking at that little box of matches in a totally different light. Here's what happened when I followed the simple hack to help feed my plants.

How does it work?

YouTube creator, @creative_explained, has a page full of clever tips and tricks to use around your home that he shares with his almost 5 million subscribers (one of which is me). He taught me a clever potato peel hack to supercharge my garden that's saved me a bunch of money on fertilizer and he's even taught me how to clean a shower head with vinegar.

Sometimes, I like to head back into the archives on his page to see if there's any hacks I've missed and I was surprised by what I found. The video, featured above, reveals that you can feed your plants and give them a natural boost with just a box of matches and some water. Since I already have both those things in my home, I thought it was definitely worth a try – and it turns out it's really simple.

All you have to do is this:

• Put 5 to 10 matches into a container
• Fill the container with some water
• Wait for around an hour
• Give them a stir and use the pink water to pour onto your plants

He explains that by letting the matches soak in the water, it'll turn pink: "That's the phosphorous and sulfur being released into the water," he explains. "Pretty much what that means is that it's food for your plants! Phosphorous will help your plants grow these nice, healthy roots and sulfur will produce nice leafy greens."

But, while in the video you'll see him light the matches and let them burn, it turns out you don't want to do that – and I learned this first-hand when I tried it out.

Here's what happened when I tried it

As mentioned, I made the mistake of lighting the matches when I first gave this a try. I'd seen the flames that @creative_explained had lit on his video and hadn't quite paid full attention that it was just for show. Look a little closer and you'll find that the matches inside the water are still red-tipped and that's because he hasn't let them burn.

This is an important part of this hack because if you burn them, you're eliminating the phosphorous and sulfur that you need for the water to turn pink and nutritious for your plants. So, after a couple of failed attempts, I used the matches without letting them burn. Lesson learned.

I also thought I'd like to use a little more water than he demonstrates with to make sure I could feed the numerous plants around my home. So, I added 10 matches in one go to see if that would help infiltrate more water – and it did.

Now, I've only just started trying this new match-infused water trick on my plants, so it's hard to say whether it's making any difference yet. What I do know is that it was super simple to do, very affordable and I haven't seen any damaging effects to the plants.

So, I'm wiling to keep trying it out using my mom's 'Thirsty Thursday' routine in collaboration with the matches. Since it's so low-cost and quick, it's easy to play the long game and see if my plants get an extra boost. Either way, I feel like I'm creating potions and that's made remembering to water my plants a lot more fun, too.

More from Tom's Guide

• This cheap garden hack will help your roses grow — and all you need is a few old tea bags
• I've just discovered this strange hack that'll keep pests away from your plants — and it uses a popular cold medicine
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

I spent months watching white mold fuzz creep across the soil of my favorite houseplants. I tried everything: better drainage, less water, moving them to brighter spots. Nothing worked. Then I discovered that cinnamon has antifungal properties and decided to try it.

A simple dusting of ground cinnamon from my kitchen cupboard cleared the mold completely and it hasn't come back. I was skeptical at first. How could a spice work where everything else failed? But the science is straightforward: cinnamon contains compounds that actively suppress the fungi causing the problem.

After testing it on seven houseplants, I can confirm it does the trick. Here's exactly how to do it.

Why cinnamon actually works

Cinnamon contains cinnamaldehyde and eugenol, which are natural compounds with proven antifungal properties. These chemicals create a hostile surface for the common molds that appear on houseplant soil, particularly Penicillium and Trichoderma, which show up as white or gray-green fuzz.

The key is that cinnamon works as a preventative layer, not a cure-all. It slows mold growth while you fix the underlying problem — usually overwatering or poor air circulation.

In my experience, once you address those issues and apply cinnamon, the mold doesn't return. I reapply lightly every month as a maintenance step, particularly on plants in shadier corners of my home where moisture lingers longer.

The mistakes I made (so you don't)

My first attempt failed because I applied cinnamon to wet soil. It trapped moisture and made things worse. Wait until the surface is completely dry before dusting.

I also used too much cinnamon initially, creating a thick layer that repelled water instead of letting it through. A light coating is all you need

Finally, I realized cinnamon alone wasn't enough. If your houseplant is in a dark corner with a saucer that stays wet constantly, cinnamon won't solve the problem. You have to fix the watering habits and light situation first. Cinnamon is the finishing touch, not the full solution.

More from Tom's Guide

• I stopped making these 9 plant ‘care’ mistakes and now my plants are thriving
• This tiny pest causes the biggest damage to your plants — here's how to stop thrips
• Your succulent is dying of thirst every time you mist it — do this instead

If you’re a BBQ aficionado, chances are you’ve already tried out a ton of different smokers, from charcoal to wood and pellet smokers. If you haven’t, you might be a bit overwhelmed with the best grill choices.

The Westwood XL from Traeger aims to simplify the process for you by offering a set it and forget it smoking experience, as well as versatility for high-heat grilling. It’s a spacious unit, giving you tons of space to get lots of meats and sides on the grill at once.

And you can definitely cook low and slow as the pros do for great barbecue. The Westwood XL doesn’t get hot enough for real meat searing, but it still works well enough for most grilling if you’re just cooking dinner on a weeknight.

If you’re after an intense smoky flavor however, the Westwood XL isn’t your unit. But if you want some decent smoked meats without the hassle of babysitting a fire all day long, this might be your next backyard cooking mainstay. Here’s what happened when I cooked up a storm.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Price and availability

The Westwood XL costs $800 and is available for purchase now on Traeger’s website. It comes with a 7-year limited warranty, and you can finance the purchase using Affirm at checkout.

It’s also available at other retailers like Ace or Home Depot, though pricing and availability may vary.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Design

Unboxing and building the Westwood XL took me about an hour. The included instructions are super easy to follow, and they’re thorough, so you shouldn’t have much issue building this even if you’re not a particularly handy person. Traeger even includes the screwdriver you’ll need to build the unit.

First, you’ll need to do an initial burn-off to make sure all the oils and debris from manufacturing and shipping get torched off. This basically involves running the Westwood XL for about 30 minutes, though I did it a bit longer: about an hour until the smell of some of the oils dissipated.

The Westwood XL is a fairly straightforward pellet smoker. The pellet hopper lives on the right side of the main cooking chamber. It’s here you’ll load up on the pellets of your choice, though Traeger recommends Traeger-branded pellets to ensure quality. The control unit is mounted to the front of the hopper, and the power switch is on the back.

At the bottom of the hopper, an auger transfers pellets in toward the cooking chamber to provide both heat and smoky flavor. The augur runs automatically and feeds pellets based on your chosen temperature and cooking time. The hopper itself can hold up to 18 pounds of pellets at a time.

The main cooking chamber features 823 square inches of cooking space across two levels of cooking grates. Beneath those, a drip tray runs the full length of the cooking area to ensure no grease falls through. That funnels into a removable grease trap that you can empty when needed. It also comes with a removable tin liner if you prefer to simply toss out the liner with the collected grease.

The Westwood XL has a cooking temperature range of 180 to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, making it appropriate both for smoking low/slow and grilling at high heat.

To the left of the cooking chamber, you’ll find a small prep shelf with cooking tool hooks mounted to the front. It’s not a lot of real estate, just enough to put your cutting board full of meat before and after cooking. Fortunately, you can also use the top of the pellet hopper, though if you need to open the hopper to add more pellets, you’ll need to clear off anything sitting on the hopper lid.

You can accessorize your Westwood XL using Traeger’s P.A.L. Pop-And-Lock accessory system. The P.A.L. mount lives on the front of the Westwood XL, and it’s here that you can add compatible accessories, including additional prep space.

There’s also a much larger storage shelf beneath the cooking chamber. This is a good place to store unused pellets, though you’ll want to make sure they’re stored in a heat-resistant container. If you plan on storing the grill outside without any grill cover or other protection, you’ll also want to make sure that the container is weatherproof so the pellets don’t get wet and expand.

The digital control panel is easy to use. You can adjust your cooking temperature using the dial, then press and hold the start button to fire up the automatic starter. Once the fire starts going, the Westwood XL will reach its target temperature automatically.

The Westwood XL also comes with a single meat probe that plugs directly into the digital control panel. You can set a target temperature here as well. The digital control panel also features a timer with audible alarms.

In addition, moving this 128-pound grill is pretty easy thanks to the large wheels mounted on the hopper-side legs. The other two legs don’t feature any wheels, but tiling this side up and rolling the grill along is no problem at all.

While you can control all these settings directly on the digital control panel, you can also control the Westwood XL using Traeger’s WiFIRE app. More on that in a moment.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Grilling performance

After I burnt off all the manufacturing byproducts, I let the grill cool down completely. Then I fired it up again later to cook my first meal.

I prepped a 1.3 pound London Broil with the intention of cooking it medium rare. Normally, I would want to get a very high temperature (around 500 degrees) to ensure a good sear — the Westwood XL only gets up to 450 degrees, so I had to adjust.

So I took the app’s recommendations and heated the grill to 450. It took about 20 minutes to heat up to that temperature, which I thought was quite a long wait. In subsequent uses, the heat-up time was cut down to about 15 minutes.

I inserted the included probe and set the app to alert me when the meat was cooked to medium rare. According to the app, that meant an internal temperature of 135 degrees. It also recommended cooking for about 4-5 minutes per side, which seemed spot-on in my experience, though I would probably shoot for a slightly lower internal temperature for medium-rare.

It took about 17 minutes of cooking to reach 135 degrees internally, though. And when I took the steak off the grill and let it rest, the finished cook was more akin to medium or even medium well. I definitely should have trusted my gut and taken the steak off sooner.

I’ve used a lot of pellet smokers, and none of them have really produced a high-quality sear for steaks. That’s because the heat source is not directly beneath the cooking surface; rather, it’s offset like a true smoker. Such was the case with the Westwood XL. The sear just wasn’t there. I would recommend searing your steak before or after you cook it on the Westwood, in a cast-iron pan on the stove if possible.

And since the steak wasn’t on the Westwood for very long, I knew I had to temper my expectations for a true smoky flavor. That assumption was confirmed; there’s not much smokiness to the steak, which is forgivable for any pellet smoker, since the smoke really needs a lot of time exposed to any meats to make that smoky flavor come through.

In addition, the Westwood is also somewhat loud. I say this comparatively; my charcoal smoker’s fan only runs when it needs to stoke the fire to adjust temperature, while the Westwood’s auger and fan run more or less constantly. It’s not bother-the-neighbors loud, but it’s certainly noticeable if you’re hanging out in the backyard while the grill runs.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Smoking performance

Next, I prepped some pork ribs for smoking. While I intended to use the 3-2-1 method to smoke these (three hours smoked unwrapped, 2 hours wrapped, and an additional hour unwrapped), I still consulted the app’s recommendations for cooking times and temperatures.

The app recommended an internal temperature of 200 degrees for the ribs when finished. So that’s what I set my alarm for. Then I put the ribs on for the first 3-hour session, opening the lid occasionally to spray some Dr. Pepper on them for moisture and to create a nice, caramelized finish.

Pellet grills like this one tend to lend less smoky flavor to meat than other types of smokers, like wood and charcoal. So I was curious to see if the Westwood XL could buck that trend. Ultimately, I found the smoky finish to be somewhat slight, which is what I expected. If you really want an immersive smoky flavor, you’ll want to opt for charcoal or wood. That said, if you want a slightly smoky flavor and a super easy, set it and forget it cooking experience, the Westwood XL delivers.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: App

The WiFIRE app is easy to pair and set up with the Westwood XL. It’s reliable too, with a strong internet connection. I found myself controlling the Westwood XL more with the app than with the physical controls on the front of the grill.

The app also has recommendations built in for cooking times based on what type of meat you’re cooking and what kind of results you want. As I mentioned earlier, however, consider these recommendations, not absolutes.

If you’re new to smoking and grilling, the app is great for exploring recipes, too. Traeger has done a nice job of making the app a useful resource for all levels of outdoor cooks.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Accessories

My test unit came with a few accessories, including the Westwood XL full-length grill cover ($100), which I would highly recommend if you intend to store your grill where it will be exposed to the elements. Traeger also sent along some barbecue sauces, rubs, and pellets. All of these are available for purchase on the Traeger website.

There are tons of other accessories on Traeger’s website, far too many to list here. Suffice it to say, you can outfit all of your cooking needs from the accessories page. I would highly recommend looking into getting a P.A.L. Pop and Lock Front Shelf to give you more prep space on the barebones Westwood XL. These range in price from $90 to $180, depending on what size you get.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Competition

Traeger has made a big name for itself in the pellet smoker space. But it’s hardly the only player. Brands like Weber, Recteq, Yoder, and Pit Boss all offer their own pellet smokers, as do smaller brands you might see at the big box store.

Weber’s Searwood 600 is a close competitor. It costs $200 more than the Westwood XL, but it also reaches a higher temperature at 600 degrees. It also features a smoke boost function, which ups the smoky flavor. It’s overall a better choice than the Traeger Westwood XL, unless you need more cooking space (the Searwood tops out at 648 square inches) and versatility with Traeger’s impressive line of accessories. The Searwood also doesn’t have any prep surfaces other than the lid of the pellet hopper.

Traeger Westwood XL Grill review: Verdict

For a true set-it-and-forget-it cooking experience, the Westwood XL delivers a lot of convenience at a good price. It’s ideal for family dinners in the backyard or for entertaining guests on the weekend. Just don’t expect a ton of smoky flavor here; pellet smokers are generally not as robust in that regard as charcoal or wood smokers.

And you’ll need to adjust the way you grill at high temperatures too. You won’t get a great sear on steaks; you’ll need to do that part on a stovetop or griddle.

I love the ease of use of the Traeger app and the true simplicity of the Westwood XL setup. It’s easy to toss on some meats for smoking for hours and hours, then just walk away. But I wonder if the meat probes are reading correctly, given how overcooked everything was when I was using those probes as my guide.

Aside from that, the Westwood XL is a good pellet smoker that’s easy to use and not intimidating if you’re new to pellet smokers. The app is great, easy to use, and a good resource for new and experienced cooks. Overall, it’s a pleasant cooking experience.

Gardening doesn't have to be complicated and it also doesn't have to be expensive. I say this because I'm constantly on the hunt for hacks that'll save me money from using potato peel to supercharge my garden to using old tea bags to help my roses thrive, both of which have seriously surprised me with the results. And during my most recent scrolling frenzy on social media, I stumbled upon a really clever idea.

I've always wanted to make a miniature garden without having to spend cash on planters and pots. I'm short on space, time and money, so the hack I found was perfect, especially as I have an abundance of succulents looking for a new place to live. What's even better about is that it uses a kitchen item I already had at home (and most likely you do too). For this one, all I needed was an old milk jug. So, instead of putting it in the recycling, here's what I did instead.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @dumpsterbunny posts an eclectic mix of videos to her over 35k followers and amongst her hobbies, she shares her love of gardening. As featured above, she's even posted a hack where she takes an old milk jug and totally transforms it into a lovely miniature succulent garden. Thankfully, it's super simple to follow.

All you have to do is this:

• Cut an empty milk jug in half, just under the handle
• Take the lid off and turn the top half upside down and place it in the bottom half
• If not secure, cut two holes and use a zip-tie to secure the bottom half round the handle
• Add in small rocks to the bottom, add soil on top of that, and then add your miniature plants and/or succulents

In case you're wondering, the reason behind placing your milk jug upside down with the lid off is to create a drainage system for the bottom of your garden. And by placing the rocks down before the soil, you can prevent the soil from blocking the drainage hole underneath.

This creates a perfect environment to add whatever plants you like from ones you're propagating, to ones looking for a new home, or perhaps to create entirely new seed starters for spring.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I'm always keen to give hacks a try myself before suggesting them, just so I can make sure they actually turn out the way they've been described online. But, while I'm still in the process of propagating my succulents, for now I've only built my miniature garden pot from a milk jug and have yet to add in my plants.

I found this hack super simple and for some reason, my milk jug fit perfectly together, meaning I didn't need to use any zip-ties either. I'm mainly impressed with how it looks as I imagined the edges would be jagged from cutting it up. What I will do next though is decorate it to make it look a little more aesthetic among my other pots.

What I do know for certain is that it cost me absolutely zero dollars to create (apart from the milk, which I'd buy regardless). It also turned out to be a fun project that I could get my six-year-old involved with, too.

More from Tom's Guide

• This 10-minute gardening routine has made a huge difference to my outdoor space — here's why I do it every evening
• Supercharge your yard without spending a dime: 5 household items to repurpose right now
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

Now that the weather is warmer, I’m looking forward to getting my charcoal grill out of hibernation and preparing for our summer backyard gatherings. But despite my love for those delicious smoky flavors, I must admit that my grilling technique is always hit-and-miss.

That’s why I decided to ask a professional chef what the secret is to perfecting your grilling game. As it turns out, I've been approaching it wrong all this time — but not anymore.

So if you want to improve your succulent steaks or simply wish to impress your guests, here’s the top grilling tip we all must do for that perfect taste.

Learn to cook with the fire

Mastering the art of cooking properly with the fire is a total game-changer. My usual routine involved just spreading everything across the grates and waiting patiently for one side to finish before flipping over. But as it turns out, the secret lies in staying active and constantly shifting your ingredients across the heat.

“For me, barbecue cooking is one of the purest and most enjoyable ways to cook. It’s instinctive, hands-on and social - proper primal cooking over fire!” states Tommy Banks, British Chef and brand ambassador for Kasai Grills.

“Cooking over fire is very instinctive," Banks says. "You have to stay involved with it. A great barbecue isn’t about putting something down and walking away. It’s about moving food around constantly, understanding where the hotspots and cooler spots are, adjusting heights and controlling caramelization and smoke levels. That movement is what gives you beautifully cooked food instead of burnt food!”

Of course, always proceed with caution whenever cooking over a flame, and avoid doing this near children or pets running around.

Fire it up early

Another common mistake people often make is not firing up the grill early enough. This is especially the case for lump wood charcoal, where you’ll need to allow adequate time for it to heat up. Again, this will make all the difference to your tasty results.

“People get impatient and start cooking while there are still flames licking everywhere,” explains Banks. “You need to let the flames die down and cook over the glowing coals instead.”

So what’s the best fuel for grilling like a pro and for the best results? “A premium lump wood charcoal is probably the best and easiest option for most people cooking at home," Banks says. "If you really want to level things up, binchotan charcoal is incredible.

"That’s what we use in the restaurants because it burns far hotter and much longer than standard charcoal. In a professional kitchen, the last thing you want is your barbecue cooling down halfway through service.”

Armed with these professional tips, I am keen to see if these will actually level up my outdoor cooking and truly impress my guests at our next backyard gathering. Watch this space.

More from Tom's Guide

• The best meat thermometers we've tested
• 3 things to consider before buying a grill
• 9 grilling safety checks you're probably forgetting

Now that warmer weather is finally here, many households have already put their best grill to good use, or are getting ready to host those backyard cookouts (World Cup watch parties, anyone?). And if you prefer cooking with wood charcoal, don’t throw out your leftover ash after your feasts.

Surprisingly, wood charcoal ash is valuable to certain plants and will help to give them a healthy boost. And gardeners are sprinkling their ash leftovers as a great soil enhancer — effectively neutralizing soil pH while providing a powerhouse of essential nutrients, including potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium — that will help your garden thrive.

From herbs and juicy tomatoes to beautiful blooms such as roses, who knew that our smoky remnants would be liquid gold for our plants? Before you sprinkle ash into your soil, however, it’s recommended to do a test to check pH. This simple step identifies the current alkalinity levels and ensures you apply just the right amount to your plants.

In addition, avoid using wood ash around acid-loving varieties and never use it on delicate seedlings, in case it causes more harm than good! For best results, stick to plants that flourish in more alkaline environments.

So before you ditch your grill waste, put it to good use in the garden instead. Here are just a few of our favorite plants that will love your leftover charcoal ash.

Succulent strawberries

There’s nothing better than fresh, juicy strawberries, and if you want a bountiful harvest this summer, sprinkling grill ash can give them that much-needed boost.

Strawberries thrive in excellent drainage conditions, so adding wood ash to the compost (before planting) can significantly help to loosen soil and improve drainage — especially when dealing with heavy clay soil. Generally, strawberries prefer a soil pH between 5.5 and 7.0, which ranges from fairly acidic to mildly alkaline.

Tastier tomatoes

Another popular plant we all love growing here at Tom’s Guide is tomatoes. But did you know that wood ash can make a great fertilizer before planting tomato seedlings in a bed?

Similarly, tomatoes require loose, well-draining soil to grow healthy and in abundance. Adding ash around the plant bed, this can improve soil quality and add essential nutrients such as potassium that can help to prevent diseases such as blossom end rot. Again, before you sprinkle ash, always check the results of your soil tests since tomatoes are a delicate plant.

For more top tips, find out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

Rosy roses

If you love roses or simply want to grow the perfect roses this summer, there are plenty of things to consider. More importantly, and depending on the variety, you’ll need the right soil pH level for them to thrive and stay healthy all season.

Typically, most rose varieties grow as perennials in Zones 5 to 11 and require a soil pH between 6.0 (slightly acidic) and 8.0 (alkaline). Depending on your soil test readings, you can repurpose your grill ash to amend the soil pH for your beautiful blooms — and get rid of nuisance pests too. This will help to ensure you have a healthy and vibrant rose garden to enjoy at all times.

Don't use just any grill ash!

While wood ash can certainly benefit your garden, it’s critical to remember that not every smoky remnant is good for the soil. To protect your garden's health, you should strictly avoid using leftovers from fatty briskets or any charcoal that required chemical lighter fluids, as these harmful additives can easily ruin your soil quality.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Your peace lily won't survive winter if you don't change these 5 things
• Stop killing your grass: 5 safe de-icing methods you need to know

With warmer temperatures here, our plants and gardens will also be feeling the heat this summer. And whether you’re a plant parent or growing veggies, it’s vital to keep up your watering schedule, or else your plants will be literally parched and end up dying.

Admittedly, I’m guilty of neglecting my watering schedule, mostly because I simply lack the time (or the energy) after a long day. That’s when I discovered this clever gardening essential that will water my flower beds naturally — without me having to lift a finger.

In fact, this method is a centuries-old water irrigation system that involves porous clay or terracotta pots. Best of all, it’s simple to use and won’t break the bank. So what are Ollas irrigation pots, and why are they my must-have tool?

What are Ollas irrigation pots and how do they work?

Ollas (pronounced ohh-yah) are porous earthenware, clay, or terracotta pots. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary clay pot with a bulb-like appearance. But the real game-changer is its ability to slowly release water into the soil and the roots of plants when it needs it.

In fact, this isn’t a clever new viral ‘hack’ — the Ollas water irrigation system was first used 4,000 years ago in China. You simply bury the terracotta ollas pot underground until its neck, fill it with water, and it will leach out water only when the soil gets dry. This is because the water is drawn out by osmosis, thanks to its porous material. What’s more, if the ground is wet, the water will remain in the olla, which means there is no risk of overwatering the soil. Impressive!

Not only does Ollas do the hard work for you, but encourages deeper root growth. For instance, if you just water the surface, this encourages roots upwards. However, deeper roots allow your plants or veggies to tap into moisture and nutrients deeper in the soil, and they can also stay cooler. Additionally, you can add liquid fertilizer to the Ollas if you want to give your roots a nutritional boost.

How I used Ollas in my yard

Ever since we started a DIY greenhouse and raised bed area, the real challenge is that the soil can often get dry quickly — especially with the temperatures rising.

Besides setting an alarm reminder on my phone, the ollas offer a much better way to water the new seeds or plants regularly. Best of all, setting it up is a breeze and only takes a few minutes of your time.

First, I dug a small hole in the soil to bury the olla, leaving 1-2 inches above the soil surface (with the neck out) to keep dirt and soil from getting inside.

Next, I packed the surrounding soil closely around the Ollas to prevent air pockets, as you want to ensure that the water can easily move into the soil and keep roots growing healthy.

I used a watering can to pour water in through the top before putting the lid on — then you simply leave it to do its work. The water will slowly leach out to provide essential hydration to the surrounding soil, keeping your thirsty plants quenched.

You'll need to refill your Ollas once or twice a week, depending on the water level, as you don’t want it to dry out. Also, if you have more than one Ollas, be sure to space them correctly — the general rule of thumb is every 2 – 3 feet in the yard for best irrigation. You can also buy various sizes to suit your outdoor space and even use in your pots or containers. Just remember where you've buried them all!

I still have yet to see how well my vegetable seeds will grow; however, this affordable water irrigation is a must-have for any gardener. Plus, it comes in handy as a self-watering pot while you’re on summer vacation too — which is a bonus.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to save water in your yard this summer
• 5 ways to keep your lawn healthy and green — without wasting water
• This NASA-approved plant hack cools your home for free

As the weather starts to warm up, it’s the perfect time to unwind in your backyard or outdoor sanctuary. What’s more, the brighter evenings mean you can host those summer gatherings well into sunset.

But what happens when your neighbor's hedge is too high and blocks out the natural light? Are there any legal restrictions? And what is the best way to tackle this?

Similar to knowing your legal rights for cutting your neighbors' overhanging bushes or painting shared fences, what are the rules for dealing with a neighbor’s high boundary hedge? This is especially the case when they refuse to maintain it, and it starts to become a nuisance.

Fortunately, we’ve called on the experts to weigh in on our legal rights, what steps to take, and best practices for approaching your neighbors directly. So if you want to avoid any neighborhood wars, read this first.

What are my legal rights if my neighbour's hedge is too high?

To establish whether you have any legal rights, this will depend on your local ordinances. Generally, this varies from state to state, so it’s important to check your city laws and codes.

“This is always going to be different depending on where you live, and there are likely to be some ordinances on the books that discuss hedges and their interference with your property,” states Edward Susolik. CEO & President, Managing Partner of Callahan & Blaine.

“What needs to be done is to show how the hedge is disrupting your life to give any merit to your complaint. Hedges are often zoned to be a maximum height, and that can also serve as the basis.”

“For instance, in California, there is a concept involving a spite fence, which means if a neighbor intentionally grows or keeps a hedge simply to annoy or hurt you, then it can be the basis for your claim. It’s that motive that matters.”

So what if your neighbor’s high hedge blocks natural light? While experts agree there is no general rule that would guarantee access to sunlight for homeowners, you may have a case if the hedge poses a danger.

“If the hedge creates a safety hazard, damages homeowners' property, overruns the border line between properties, or violates local code, there are more possibilities to do something about it,” explains Ashley James, Virginia Real Estate Investor and founder of TrueVision Homes.

“You need to know your local codes and laws, so it's better to contact an experienced real estate lawyer in case of need.”

Additionally, it’s useful to check the boundary lines, which can be done by a professional surveyor. Similar to overhanging branches, when that hedge is creeping over into your property, you are usually allowed to trim it away, but you need to stop once you reach your line.

Politely speak to your neighbor

Of course, the best approach is to avoid any legal disputes altogether. And experts recommend politely speaking to your neighbor about how their overgrown hedge is affecting your property or yard.

“We always want to be friends with our neighbors for our peace of mind,” agrees Johana Williams, property expert and regional manager for Utopia Management San Diego.

“I would highly recommend amicably settling the matter by talking it over face-to-face first. Politely explain that the shadow blocks the sun from reaching your favorite room or vegetable garden, which stops your vegetables from growing.

“Many homeowners don’t realize this and are usually more than kind enough to trim the hedge once they know it’s causing a problem.”

Additionally, if your neighbour ignores your concerns or proves to be uncooperative, experts advise documenting everything with dates and timestamps, in case it needs to be escalated.

“Dating the proof you have with timestamps and taking different angles of images should also be done early, with the hope that you won’t need it after that friendly chat,” adds Susolik.

“Following up with your neighbor through text or email also confirms that this conversation between you both happened. Local enforcers may need to come in, or you may need to have things mediated, and I think that’s best before jumping to the most extreme response of a suit.

"You don’t want a years-long battle that no one can easily win because neither of you thought to keep track of things early on in the dispute.”

Generally, maintaining good relations with your neighbors' can be favorable and will get you the best outcome. Or maybe you could extend an offer to assist with the maintenance of the hedge? Just be mindful of these top mistakes when trimming a hedge, as you don't want any more issues to contend with!

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 rude habits your neighbors hate
• Gardeners urged to spray patios and paths with vinegar until November — and it’s not as strange as it sounds
• These 7 plants will create more privacy in your backyard

Whether you’re a keen gardener or prefer to be eco-friendly with your kitchen food waste, composting is a brilliant way to turn organic matter into nutrient-rich soil to feed our gardens and improve lawncare. Not to mention, saving you a fortune on buying bags of compost from your local gardening center!

And while there are plenty of organic scraps we can recycle to make compost at home, such as eggshells and used coffee grounds, there is one lesser-known food scrap that can make all the difference — corn husks.

According to experts, corn husks and silks are rich in carbon and can add the essential ‘brown’ layers to your compost heap. In addition, shredding these scraps into smaller fragments will improve aeration and help regulate soil temperatures. This also helps to retain vital moisture and suppress pesky weeds, which essentially boosts your soil with organic matter as it slowly breaks down throughout the summer.

So before you throw out your corn husks and silks, recycle them to keep your garden and plants healthy. Here’s how.

How to use corn husks in your compost

Typically, compost needs a 3:1 ratio of brown (carbon-rich) and green (nitrogen-rich) materials to create healthy soil. So for composting corn husks, both green and brown varieties are suitable — the latter are typically those left on the ears to protect seeds during harvest.

It’s recommended to chop up or shred corn husks and silks into smaller pieces before adding them to your compost pile to encourage faster decomposition.

What’s more, this varied mix of textures encourages quicker breakdown into the soil, boosting it with nutrient-rich organic matter — which is always a welcome bonus for any gardener.

So what about leftover corn cobs? While these can go on the pile, cobs will take longer than composting corn husks. However, cobs do have their benefits as they offer air pockets in the compost heap. This will help to speed up the decomposition process by giving it the oxygen it needs to quickly break down.

The secret weapon for easier composting (get a tumbler bin)

Although there are various compost bins and containers on the market, you’ll need the right compost bin suitable for your outdoor space. And if you want to make composting a breeze or have a smaller yard, a compost tumbler is ideal.

Compost tumblers are super easy to use and feature chambers to add and remove compost, and aeration holes allowing air each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to all parts.

All you’ll need to do is close the chambers and use the crank handle to rotate the bin five or six times every two to three days. Compared to standard compost bins where you’ll need to stir matter around with a garden fork or spade, this makes light work of a tiresome chore.

Before you do though, don’t make these 7 composting mistakes to avoid.

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As a pro grill tester, I recently put Solo Stove’s Steelfire 30 Stainless Griddle through its paces. But while I was impressed by its performance, I found myself wanting a more portable version for car camping trips. To my delight, the latest Steelfire 22 has provided the compact solution I was looking for.

It’s small and light, but mighty. The racetrack burner produces consistent heat over much of the cooking surface, and cleaning the Steelfire 22 after use is super easy. I wish Solo Stove included an adapter for larger propane tanks, but otherwise, my experience with the Steelfire 22 has been overwhelmingly positive.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Price and availability

The Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle is priced at $400. It is currently available for purchase on Solo Stove’s website and includes free shipping. You can finance the purchase using Paypal as the checkout option on the website. The unit comes with “hassle-free returns” and a limited lifetime warranty.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Design

Out of the box, the Steelfire 22 Griddle requires very little assembly. Simply screw on the lid handle, make sure all the packaging is properly removed, screw on the propane attachment, and you’re just about ready to cook.

The griddle itself is removable, should you want to clean it in the sink or otherwise remove debris that might have sneaked underneath where the burner lives. That burner features a ‘racetrack’ configuration that covers just about all of the surface area above in order to reduce or eliminate cool spots when you’re cooking. While the Steelfire 22’s larger sibling features two of these racetrack burners, the 22 only has one.

A single control knob is mounted to the front of the Steelfire 22. This is where you’ll light the stove and adjust the temperature. The Steelfire 22 has an integrated starter, but should you need to light it with a match or lighter, that’s possible too, using the ports below the griddle surface.

The entire cooking surface is made from triple-layer clad stainless steel. This, according to Solo Stove, leads to faster heat-up time (just seven minutes, according to the website), faster cook times, and better control over heat and cooking temps.

There’s no seasoning required. Stainless steel won’t rust, and just needs to be cleaned after use to preserve its usefulness. Cleaning is easy; simply dump ice cubes or water on the surface and scrub away the remnants of the cooking session.

Speaking of those remnants, the griddle surface features a grease hole at the back, where you can guide all the grease and detritus from cooking. Through the hole, that unwanted stuff falls into a removable grease pan that you can empty easily after use. It simply slides into place at the back of the unit and slides out when you want to empty it.

The propane connector is designed to be used with 1-pound propane tanks — the kind you’d use for your camping stove. That’s great if you’ll be using your griddle on the go for tailgating or camping. But at home, you’ll probably want to use the big 20-pound propane tank you use on other grills. You can use those with the Steelfire 22 Griddle, but you’ll need an adapter to convert the Steelfire’s included propane attachment to a standard 20-pound propane tank attachment.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Performance

No sooner was the Steelfire out of its box than I was toting it up to the woods to cook for a group of about 20 people. It was a gathering of hungry mountain bikers just back from a ride, and burgers of all sorts were on the menu.

Okay, so not quite that quickly. First, I fired up the Steelfire the night before to burn off any oils or dirt and dust left over from shipping, per the instructions. I ran it for about 45 minutes on medium heat, then the Steelfire 22 was ready for use.

I set up the Steelfire 22 in the back of my Dodge Sprinter van, where I have a slide-out table that also holds my refrigerator. The Steelfire fit perfectly there, about as much space as a large camping stove would take. It was set up and heating within a minute of arriving.

Solo Stove says the griddle gets up to cooking temperature in seven minutes or so. It took me a bit longer to get the griddle to a temperature I was happy with, around 10 to 12 minutes. Still, it was ready for burgers very quickly.

And with stainless steel, heat is your friend. It’s important to get the griddle good and hot if you want a non-stick surface. I use stainless steel pans at home, and it took me quite a while to get the hang of cooking with them, because food tends to stick to the porous stainless steel if you don’t get it hot enough before you cook. The same is true here with the Steelfire 22. Get the griddle good and hot, then adjust the temperature according to your cooking needs.

Having used the larger Steelfire 30 for quite some time, I immediately missed having two racetrack burners rather than one. It’s easy with the larger griddle to tailor the heat on two different sides, allowing you to cook meats, for example, on one side and potatoes or other veggies that require a lower heat setting on the other. But I also sure did like having the portability of the Steelfire 22, so it’s a trade-off I could live with.

Those hungry mountain bikers showed up all at once, so I threw on enough burgers (and veggie burgers) to cover the entire surface of the Steelfire 22. I used a hamburger steamer I already owned, which definitely helped speed up the cooking process without burning or over-charring the burgers. Turkey burgers took much longer to cook, but that didn’t have anything to do with the specific type of meat. I had those turkeys at the edge of the griddle.

Now, Solo Stove claims there are no cool spots on the griddle due to the racetrack burner. And that’s mostly true. But in the corners and along the edges, my infrared thermometer definitely registered a drop of 20-30 degrees from the center of the griddle. And those edges are where I had the turkey burgers hanging out. So while the racetrack burner certainly covers the vast majority of the cooking surface, you’ll still need to be aware of some cool spots.

Because this was an extended cooking session, I tossed aside the 1-pound propane bottle in favor of a larger 5-pound tank I use for car camping. This bottle requires an adapter, which, fortunately, I already had on hand. I was disappointed to find that Solo Stove doesn’t include the adapter for larger tanks, as I suspect a large percentage of consumers will end up needing one.

But otherwise, the cooking went smoothly, and none of the burgers stuck to the cooking surface, beyond a bit of char. It was a whirlwind cooking session, and I didn’t even have time to snap any photos.

Cleanup was quick and easy too. Just toss on some ice and scrape off the mess. A stainless steel scrubber works even better with the ice. The only problem is, all that water then gets funneled into the grease trap if it doesn’t burn all the way off. And that grease trap is quite small, so you may deal with some overflow.

After the hungry mountain bikers' trip, I used the Steelfire 22 at home for several meals. All of them cooked up nicely, and I got the hang of adjusting the temperature as needed for different types of foods. And I also got the lay of the land, so to speak, of the griddle and where the cooler spots were. I used those to my advantage, positioning vegetables and other foods that don’t require super high heat in those areas, while beef got positioned in the hotter areas.

The cooking experience is, overall, very easy, pleasant, and convenient. Clean-up is also super easy, which encourages me to use this unit more frequently. I suspect that the Steelfire 22 will live in the back of my van for summer camping trips, though.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Accessories

The Steelfire 22 Griddle Carry Bag ($50) was sent along with my test unit, and it’s a convenient way to store the griddle. It also has two slots for propane bottles. A minor drawback is the short handle straps, which necessitate two-handed carrying, making it somewhat awkward to transport.

Other accessories include the Steelfire Griddle Burger Kit for $100, the Steelfire Griddle Spatula Duo for $50, and plenty of other useful accessories for both the griddle itself and your backyard entertaining area. Notably, I did not see a propane tank adapter kit on the Solo Stove website, but you can buy these at your local hardware store or big box store.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Competition

Stainless steel portable griddle options are limited. Several accessories work with various grills and fire pits, but Solo Stove appears to be one of the only, if not the only, game in the portable stainless steel griddle market. The most direct comparison is the Steelfire 30, a bigger brother to the Steelfire 22.

Solo Stove Steelfire 22 Griddle review: Verdict

Overall, Solo Stove’s Steelfire 22 offers excellent cooking features in a small package that’s ideal for tight backyard spaces, car camping, or tailgating before the game. It takes some time to get used to cooking on stainless steel if you haven’t done it before; keep in mind that pre-heating the surface goes a long way toward preventing food sticking.

While Solo Stove claims there are no cool spots on the griddle, I did find some in the corners and along the edges. Still, the rest of the surface was remarkably consistent in temperature, and it’s possible to use those cooler spaces to your advantage.

Cleaning the Steelfire 22 is super easy, and the experience is low-maintenance overall. I wish it had a bigger grease pan, and I also wish Solo Stove included the adapter for larger propane tanks. But otherwise, I foresee this becoming a standard fixture in my camping van. It’s just so easy and produces great results.

Thrips are so small you can barely see them without magnification. At less than 1mm long, they're barely visible to the naked eye. Yet they cause damage so obvious you can't miss it.

The frustrating part is identifying what's causing the damage because thrips hide between petals and under leaves where you can't easily spot them. By the time you realize something's wrong with your plants, thrips have already established themselves. They feed continuously, suck out plant tissue, and reproduce quickly.

Catching thrips early makes them manageable. The challenge is knowing what you're looking for and acting fast before populations explode. Here's how to identify thrips and eliminate them before they wreck your garden.

How to identify thrips before they cause major damage

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• How to double your tomato harvest — the 3-step pruning system for massive yields
• The hidden ways carpet beetles get inside your home — and how to spot them
• Monstera leaves curling? Here's what your plant is trying to tell you

I tend to prioritize the chores inside of my home over my garden because it's just easier to ignore. But when spring and summer roll around, I'm suddenly outside trying to enjoy my garden and I realize I've let it turn into a bit of a mess. To offset this problem, I seek out hacks like the '70/30 rule' and the '30-minute garden reset' to fix my issues in the quickest way possible.

I want to enjoy my outside space, but that doesn't mean I have more time in my day to tackle the gardening on top of everything else. Don't get me wrong though, I love my garden. I just don't love having to maintain it in the colder months.

Thankfully, I've found another hack and this one has me performing an evening routine in my garden, similar to the 'wind-down rule' where I put my house to bed by performing simple tasks like washing up and doing a quick declutter. Now, I've been venturing into the garden to do the same there. Here's why it works so well.

How does it work?

#GardenTok is full of creators eager to share their gardening tips and tricks and it's also where I end up finding a lot of the hacks that I use on a regular basis. A recent scroll took me down the rabbit hole of garden 'evening routines' where creators like @describingolivia, featured above, take time each evening to perform some simple tasks in their garden ahead of the next day.

These tasks, as Olivia explains, include watering the plants, sweeping the patio, putting furniture away and any other chores like cleaning up the grill.

But, why the evening? Well, it marks the end of the day meaning you're unlikely to spend any more time in the garden. It's also considered a better time to water your plants because the weather is cooler, but you still have to be careful not to overwater as it may leave your plants damp overnight.

Here's what happened when I tried it

While I'm not sure how long Olivia spends on her 'night-time routine' for her garden each day, other creators have suggested they carry out 45-minutes or 30-minutes of work.

For me, that's not the kind of time I have to spare. I was eager for something even quicker and decided to set a timer for just 10 minutes to see what I could get done – and it turns out that was plenty of time for some easy reset jobs.

I went on a hunt for any mess that needed tidying up armed with my pruning shears to snip off any deadheads. Then, I went around with my watering can to freshen up the plants with a light water (from the base, not the leaves to prevent fungal diseases from damp).

The same way that I declutter and wipe down surfaces at night to make my home feel fresher every morning, I realized I was achieving the same for my garden. Now, I'm enjoying my outdoor space a lot more as soon as the sun rises where I get to see my efforts from the evening before in full bloom.

It's definitely something I'll keep doing, especially since I don't really have an excuse not to head out there for just 10 minutes. I'll even get outside quickly as the dinner's cooking.

More from Tom's Guide

• I tried the 'chop and drop' method on my spring garden — and it's saving me so much time
• Gardening expert shares the easiest way to prepare your flower beds and banish weeds this spring
• I just tried the 'chaos gardening' trend — and I think I've found my new favorite way to plant seeds

If you’re wondering: "why is my strawberry plant drooping?", you aren't alone.

This is the most common cry for help from backyard gardeners, and it usually comes down to five culprits. A wilting strawberry plant doesn't mean it’s time to give up, it just means something is off. The real challenge is playing detective to figure out what.

Overwatering causes the same drooping as underwatering. Fungal diseases mimic pest damage. Weather stress looks like disease stress. But each problem has different warning signs if you know where to look.

Catch the issue early and your plant bounces back. Wait too long and you lose the harvest. Here's how to identify what's actually happening and fix it fast.

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• Peace lily leaves drooping? 3 causes and quick fixes to try right now
• Yellow lemon tree leaves? Here’s how to get them lush and green again
• How to double your tomato harvest — the 3-step pruning system for massive yields

With summer fast approaching, it's time to pull the best grill out of retirement and get ready to host those backyard cookouts.

But while you might feel confident in your grilling game, experts warn that some routine outdoor grilling habits could, in fact, be secretly damaging your garden or patio.

What’s more, many homeowners only realize the damage — from permanently stained patios to ruined outdoor furniture — after the season, when it's too late.

“People usually think winter is the hardest season for patios, but summer can honestly be just as bad,” states Morgan Smith, Director of Pegseo Stone. “You’ve got grills going, sauces and drinks getting spilt, hot trays being put down, and furniture left out in all weathers. It all builds up without people really noticing.”

So before you fire up the grill for your summer gatherings, an expert shares the common grilling mistakes that are secretly damaging your garden — and the simple ways to fix them.

1. Grease stains from cooking up a feast

While grilling on a flat, paved surface is always recommended, oil spills are bound to happen. And cooking oils and grease are notorious for soaking into paving surprisingly quickly, especially on lighter stone or porous patios.

This can result in permanent stains, which will be tricky to remove and consequently ruin the aesthetic appeal of your patio.

“Grease is one of the most common issues we see over summer because spills are often missed until it is too late,” agrees Smith. “People don’t always realise how quickly it can soak into stone in hot weather.” A top tip is to tackle grease spills straight away. Use a soft brush along with a solution of warm water and dish soap for scrubbing.

Another permanent stain to be aware of is scorch marks from disposable grills. Although they offer a quick and easy way to cook food alongside your main grill, setting them directly on patios can result in scorch marks and lasting discolouration.

“Heat damage is really common in summer because people just put disposable grills straight onto paving without really thinking about it,” Smith adds. “By the time it’s been used and moved, the damage is often already there. Using a heat-resistant mat or stand underneath can help protect the surface.”

2. Rust marks from grills and metal garden furniture

If you’ve left out your metal grills, fire pits and outdoor furniture during the season, these can all lead to unsightly rust stains in your yard, particularly after overnight moisture.

“Even just damp furniture legs sitting in one spot for a while can leave marks before people even notice,” explains Smith. “It catches a lot of homeowners off guard because it can happen slowly over summer, especially when things are being left out in the garden.”

To tackle fresh rust stains, create a paste of baking soda and water to apply to the rust stain. Leave it to sit for a few minutes before scrubbing away with a brush or cloth. Alternatively, you can try using white vinegar or lemon juice instead of the baking soda paste.

And if you’re battling with a rusty grill, try this cheap and simple household trick that removes grease and rust in minutes.

3. Acidic food and drink spills

If you’re hosting a backyard gathering, it’s not uncommon for foods and drinks to topple over on tables or when left on the ground. However, acidic items, such as tomato ketchup, wine, and carbonated beverages, can leave stains on patio surfaces if they are not cleaned up quickly.

“Hot weather really catches people out because spills dry into paving much quicker than you’d expect,” says Smith. “What looks like a small mark at the time can end up setting into the surface if it’s not cleaned up quickly.”

The best approach is to clean up spills immediately to prevent any permanent stains from ruining your yard. Again, for light stains, you can try a mixture of 50:50 dish soap and water. While for more stubborn stains, you may need to use something like bleach or a more heavy-duty cleaner.

“A lot of it happens slowly over the summer, so it just goes under the radar. Then by the time you finally clean everything properly, you realise some of those stains have already soaked in and are a lot harder to get out.”

If all else fails, of course, you can invest in a good power washer to quickly tackle stubborn stains and make your yard look spotless again. In any case, avoiding these common habits entirely will ultimately save you time and hassle, allowing you to simply relax and enjoy your grilling days.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 tips to make your grill last longer — and perform better
• The one thing you need to do to prepare your grill for summer, according to experts
• 7 grilling mistakes you didn’t know you were making

Nothing beats the taste of juicy, homegrown tomatoes, and I love the thought of picking straight from the vine to use in your delicious cooking. Whether you grow tomatoes from seeds or in pots, it’s by far a cost-effective way to cut down your grocery bills.

Although tomatoes are considered one of the easiest plants to grow, the biggest challenge is maintaining a healthy harvest throughout the year. And while I’ve come across so many hacks and viral tomato growing tips (from kitchen scraps to baking soda), I just discovered the most surprising one yet.

What’s more, this household item can be commonly found in our fridges, and costs a fraction less than shop-bought fertilizers.

You may not believe it, but using milk is a lesser-known hack that every tomato plant grower should know about. Here's why.

Boost your tomatoes with milk

Milk isn't just a great source of calcium for people — it also offers a healthy boost to tomato plants. Additionally, milk contains proteins and nutrients such as magnesium, phosphorus, vitamin B and sugars that are beneficial for plants.

In fact, gardeners typically use milk to combat fungal diseases such as blossom-end rot, which causes dark, sunken spots on the bottom of fruit due to nutritional deficiencies and insufficient watering.

A simple spray of diluted milk onto the leaves or base of your tomato plants can provide a healthy boost. This clever tip essentially gives tomatoes extra calcium, supplying the additional nutrients your plants need. Plus, milk can improve overall soil health, creating microbial activity in garden beds, which, over time, contributes to a more balanced growing environment.

Just bear in mind that results can depend on soil conditions, climate, and the amount of milk applied. Avoid spraying too much, as you don’t want the odor to attract pests — leaving you with yet another issue to deal with.

How to make a milk feed for your tomatoes

Before you get your milk carton out of the fridge, it’s important that you dilute the milk with water before using on your plants.

To create a foliage spray, combine equal parts milk and water (a 50:50 solution) in a clean spray bottle, then apply the mixture directly to the tomato plant leaves.

This mixture should be absorbed; however, if you spot any residue on the leaves, you can either gently wipe them with a damp cloth or spray them with water.

For best results, spray in the morning on a sunny day. This will allow the leaves to dry quickly, and don’t forget to coat both the upper and underside of the leaf surfaces.

Alternatively, mix one cup of milk with 10 cups of water in a watering can or container to add to the soil itself. It’s recommended to wet the ground around the plants before applying your mixture.

Experts recommend treating your tomatoes with this milk solution every 10 to 14 days to fight off fungus and ensure they have enough calcium to prevent blossom end rot.

So if you want to get more out of your tomato plants this season, try giving them a milk boost to keep them healthy and juicier this season.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
• Plus, 11 things to do when overwintering tomatoes

I don't want to say I'm a lazy gardener, but I do really enjoy finding and using any shortcuts I can in order to maintain my outdoor space. From trying out the '70/30 rule' to giving the 'chaos gardening trend' a go, I've been pretty busy trying to transform my yard with a minimal amount of effort.

Most of the time, I feel like I'm simply adding to my already overwhelming chore list for inside my home with tasks to tackle outside. And with summer knocking on the door, it now seems I'm seriously running out of time.

Fortunately, interior designer Chris Catarino at Woodbury Furniture shared a really clever idea with me recently, just as the sun is beginning to really shine. It's called the '30-minute garden reset' and when I heard I only needed 30 minutes, I was desperate to give it a try. Thankfully, I was surprised by the results.

How does it work?

Every year when summer finally hits, it doesn't matter that I've been waiting desperately for the sunshine, I'm still totally unprepared when it does appear. But, what Catarino wants me (and you) to do with the '30-minute garden reset' is to make intentional, focused changes.

"You don't need a perfect garden to entertain," Catarino says (and I'm so relieved to hear it). "You need a well-thought-out one. Most outdoor spaces just need structure, clarity and a sense of intention to feel guest-ready in under 30 minutes."

So, no matter your plans, it feels like achieving a yard or patio you're proud of without having to spend loads of cash or work too hard is suddenly achievable.

Even better, Catarino breaks down the 30-minutes into three 10-minute blocks of defined, focused work to make following the process easier:

1. Remove visual distraction

In the first 10 minutes, Catarino says it's about streamlining the space: "Guests decide how a space feels within seconds. If there's clutter or visual noise, it immediately feels smaller and less inviting."

To achieve this, simply get rid of things that are occupying up too much space or cluttering your outdoors with no intention, like non-essential tools you could put in the shed or garage or toys that could be stored away when not in use.

2. Create instant structure

For the next 10 minutes, it's all about creating an area that is fit-for-purpose. If you're hosting friends, create spaces that are intentional for that. Catarino explains: "The biggest mistake people make is scattering furniture. A space feels more expensive and more inviting when it has a clear focus point."

This could simply be repositioning furniture into an area where people can sit together and chat, or moving seating to an area where people will feel like they can gather to eat food or have a drink. You'd create this outdoor space as purposefully as you'd do for inside your home.

Catarino adds: "You're essentially creating an outdoor 'room' in minutes. That sense of structure is what make a garden feel designed rather than accidental."

3. Add hospitality layers

And for the final 10 minutes of your 30-minute reset, it's about making your garden feel cozy and inviting with extra touches. Catarino says: "Think about what a guest sees as they arrive. You don't need decoration, you need cues that the space is ready for them."

Your garden is already a space that offers something more than you could achieve inside your home with flowers and shrubs of varying colors and aesthetic. But, adding in a bit of intentional lighting or a table setup that adds style to your garden is something easily achieved in ten minutes.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I find it far too easy to look at my garden and just think about the maintenance of the plants and flowers. And while I don't think that's entirely wrong, I do think it distracts me from focusing on creating an inviting space for guests and for myself.

I have a patio area that's looking a little worse for wear. Apart from a corner sofa that I love, it hasn't got a lot else going for it and it's also become a little overwhelmed by discarded garden items finding a place to dry off or I've thrown there to get out of my sight.

For my '30-minute garden reset' then, I focused all my time on this area because I wanted to see how truly impactful my 30 minutes could be. It turns out, it's quite a lot.

Firstly, I removed all the items that didn't need to just be sitting there and the space felt lighter. Then, I added in a couple of garden chairs I'd had folded up in my shed that I'd forgotten to use, creating extra seating for guests and a more conversational atmosphere.

Finally, I grabbed a string of outdoor LED lights to string across the fence that the corner sofa backed onto. And that was all I needed to totally transform a space that was definitely being neglected. Now that part is done, suddenly my entire garden looks a lot nicer and it took me no time at all.

If you're not sure where to spend and save in the garden, you might be interested in Stop buying cheap garden soil and tools: An expert shares 3 essentials to splurge on (and 3 you don't have to).

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• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
• 7 clever ways to store garden tools and save space
• I tried this $23 garden tool to rid my patio of weeds — and it's super handy

At Tom's Guide, we love tomatoes. Each year, we grow dozens of them in our yards and gardens, so we're always looking for ways to get more. We've put together these stories for you, based on our own experiences growing tomatoes, as well as expert advice from those who really know their stuff.

Planting tips

Fertilizing tips

Watering tips

Pruning tomatoes

Gardening essentials we love

Tomato diseases

Harvesting

Mosquitoes ruin outdoor evenings. You sit on your patio for ten minutes and get bitten three times. Chemical sprays work but smell terrible and require constant reapplication. Citronella candles barely make a dent.

Garlic repels mosquitoes naturally and doesn't just keep them away temporarily; it actually blocks them from mating and laying eggs near treated areas. Recent research from Yale University has confirmed that garlic works against mosquitoes, and the science explains why.

The compound responsible is diallyl disulfide, which activates taste receptors in mosquitoes that trigger immediate rejection responses. When mosquitoes encounter garlic residue, they physically can't reproduce there.

Here's how to make garlic spray that keeps mosquitoes off your patio, deck, or outdoor seating areas.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to mosquito-proof yourself this summer — 7 simple tips
• Banish mosquitoes from your home with one natural ingredient — and it also smells great
• How to get rid of mosquitoes in your home and your yard

The sunny weather is finally beaming down on my yard, ready for a summer of relaxation and hosting. But, with warmer days comes a building sense of dread that my yard actually looks in bad shape. The winter weather wasn't kind to my shrubs and flowers, but that doesn't mean there isn't hope for vibrant blooms and vivid green grass, as long as I put in some work.

In fact, I've been trying hard to supercharge my yard with money-saving ideas like the potato peel hack and even boiling a few eggs to help my plants thrive. The trouble is, I don't have much time, and it's almost too hot right now (the temperature just hit 89°F where I live) to put in the effort.

If that also sounds a bit like you, then this hack I've found called the '70/30 rule' is all about making your yard lovely by doing less. Here's how it works.

How does it work?

The '70/30 rule' was kindly brought to my attention by British home improvement retailer, Wickes, in collaboration with TV gardening expert, Katie Rushworth. Launching the online 'Summer Garden Guide', they've keenly shared their expertise through a variety of top tips. One of which is this clever rule.

As Rushworth explains: "Your garden should be somewhere you want to spend your summer - morning coffee, long lunches, evening drinks. Don’t stress about keeping every inch perfectly maintained — the whole point of summer is to relax and enjoy it.

"I often recommend following the 70/30 Rule: keep around 70% of your garden ‘managed’ — clean lines, mown paths, neat borders — and let 30% go ‘wild’, with long grass, log piles for hedgehogs, and wildflower patches. This balance keeps your garden beautiful, biodiverse, and easier to enjoy without constant upkeep."

So, instead of stressing out about what the entire yard looks like and building a list of overwhelming chores that, once the sunshine hits, you just don't feel like doing, do 70% and leave the other 30% to look after itself in a wildly natural way.

Fortunately, Rushworth has a few more tips to share that make the 70% feel a little more achievable, too. Because, to me, 70% still feels like a lot.

1. Start with a simple summer reset

Fortunately, the sunny weather is a great catalyst for yards to thrive. The sunny weather and longer days are an optimal environment for a lot of plants. But, Rushworth says, you should "focus on keeping it thriving."

For this, she says: "Now is the time to deadhead spent flowers, top up and feed the soil, tie up taller plants, and stay on top of pests and weeds." And we've also put together a handy guide on the 5 plants you should never plant near your patio if you want to avoid pests.

2. Design your garden for evenings, too

It's easy to think you'll only be using your yard in the day time when you're often out there on the weekends. But, why can't the yard be a place that's also enjoyed after a hard day's work, especially when daylight lasts so much longer?

Rushworth says the focus should also be on creating an outdoor space that works for later in the day: "Plant evening-scented blooms like jasmine, nicotiana and honeysuckle, and pale flowers such as white campanula or cosmos to reflect the moonlight." I'm a big fan of eating dinner outside, so this one resonates with me.

3. Mix in edible planting

My mom has been on a herb and vegetable planting mission recently and I asked her, why now? Well, as Rushworth (and my mom) explain: "Summer is perfect for edible planting – there's nothing better than picking basil for a salad or strawberries for dessert straight from your own garden."

And while I've checked out the 7 best vegetables to grow indoors, I definitely haven't given enough thought to taking advantage of the summer for this. It also feels like a great way to tidy up a space, while bringing new life to it.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I recently moved home and I've inherited a lovely yard full of wonderfully eclectic flowers and shrubs, but it's been stressing me out that it's now my responsibility to keep it alive and thriving.

I've not quite got the green thumb I aspire to one day have, but I try my best. Incorporating the '70/30 rule' though, has immediately turned the stress of thinking I needed to maintain everything as perfectly as possible, to only needing to do about 70% of the work. And after a hot day, I'll happily take that saving.

I've also used Rushworth's 3 handy tips to turn my muddled list of ideas and research points into a more focused step-by-step guide to getting on top of my gardening. I'm almost at a point where I feel like I can happily host people in my outdoor space. It just took a simple hack to shift my mindset to a more positive one, in time for summer.

More from Tom's Guide

• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
• 7 clever ways to store garden tools and save space
• I tried this $23 garden tool to rid my patio of weeds — and it's super handy

Last year, we ran our inaugural Get Grillin' week here at Tom's Guide, and since the weather is warming up, we thought we'd bring it back for another serving. After all, you might be eyeing up one of the best grills for a summer upgrade yourself right now.

Backyard cookouts are a summer staple — after all, the season hasn't arrived until you've had your first flame-grilled hot dog. But there's a lot to consider before you fire up the propane or reach for the bag of coals.

We're going to spend this week focusing on all things grilling, sharing top tips from experts on maintenance and cooking tips and, of course, which kind of grill you should get for your needs. We'll also dive into the right gear to make the most of grilling season so you don't have to panic when the guests start to arrive.

You lift the grill lid for the first time since last summer and immediately regret looking. Rust covers the grates. Grease has hardened into a sticky film. Remnants of last year's burgers are baked onto surfaces.

Before splurging on a replacement, try cleaning with household items that cost little. Liam Glennon, Head of Buying at Vonhaus explains: "A lot of people assume they need to replace their grill as soon as they see rust or heavy build-up, but that's not always the case...a proper clean can often bring it back to a good standard."

Here's how to assess whether your grill is salvageable and clean it using cheap kitchen staples.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 tips to make your grill last longer — and perform better
• The one thing you need to do to prepare your grill for summer, according to experts
• 7 grilling mistakes you didn’t know you were making

With summer fast approaching, it's time for me to head outside and get my backyard ready for entertaining.

And if there’s one hated gardening task for me, it’s tackling those stubborn weeds. Not only do these just spring up in my lawn and patio, but they also push through the gravel in my front yard — completely ruining the overall look of my garden.

While I’ve tried all sorts of methods to banish weeds, from chemicals to boiling water, one natural hack always seems to pop up — white vinegar. It seems like white vinegar can do so much more than just remove stubborn stains and unclog drains, and it has long been a non-toxic way to banish weeds.

However, since my task of pulling weeds seems relentless, I decided to ask the gardening experts how effective white vinegar really is, when it actually works, and when it doesn’t. So before you take out your spray, here’s what the experts say.

Why is white vinegar effective at killing weeds?

So why is white vinegar considered the 'miracle' solution for eliminating weeds? It’s all thanks to acetic acid, which works by rupturing plant cells and causing tissues to dry out. As a contact herbicide, it only damages the parts of the plant it physically touches.

“White vinegar contains acetic acid, which has a nasty habit of stripping the waxy coating off a weed's leaves,” adds Michael Wheat, founder of Ponds.

“Once that layer goes, the plant can't retain any moisture, and the leaves just shrivel up pretty fast. It's a contact herbicide so it kills what it touches, but it doesn't travel down into the root system, whatever you might be expecting."

Typically, for best results, mix white vinegar and water in a 50:50 ratio within a spray bottle. Add a small amount of dish soap to this solution — it acts as a sticking agent for better foliage adherence — and shake well until fully combined.

When is the best time it actually works?

Like any solution, you’ll need to know how to use it properly for it to work. But is there a right time for white vinegar to actually work?

Gardening experts agree that using white vinegar to control weeds requires you to stick to certain best practices and apply this common solution correctly. “If you are planning to use vinegar as a weed killer, do this once the weeds are not stressed by drought and are actively growing,” advises Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“You can then spray any unwanted plants with the solution, and they should start wilting within a few hours, turning completely brown and crispy in around 24 hours. You can then reapply it every two weeks or so as soon as any new weeds appear.”

Similar to there being a best time to water your plants or lush lawn, is there an optimal time of day when to apply vinegar to weeds?

“The best time of the day is usually early morning, when the sun is not overhead, and temperatures are milder, as this will prevent the vinegar from evaporating too quickly,” adds Zaber. “It also shouldn’t rain for at least 24 hours, so that the vinegar doesn’t get washed away. ”

The only caveat is that vinegar only affects the parts of the plant it touches, which means it won’t get to the taproots underground. This is why you tend to see weeds sprouting up again due to the well-established roots and regrowth. Therefore, white vinegar is more effective on younger, softer weeds than on mature, persistent ones.

When will it not work?

As mentioned above, white vinegar won’t work on getting rid of the tough taproot beneath the soil. To tackle this, you’ll literally need to get to the root of the problem by digging out the taproots using hand forks, trowels or investing in a sturdy weed-pulling tool.

“For anything with a taproot deeper than two inches, you're better off with good old-fashioned hand-pulling after a rain when the soil is soft," agrees Glen Chandler, gardening expert and founder of Evergreenseeds.

“What most gardeners don't realize is that vinegar only burns the green parts you can see — it rarely kills the root system of established perennials like dandelions or plantain. I've watched clients spray the same patch of crabgrass three times in one season because they expected permanent results.”

In addition, white vinegar may work on only certain weed types and not others, so it’s best to identify the specific weed before applying. "Some weeds like dandelion, bindweed, and docks are pretty tough — white vinegar won't kill them,” states Wheat.

“The top bit of the weed will go brown within a few hours, but then it's straight back to business as usual — the deep roots are still intact, and the weed is back to its old tricks in no time. It also struggles if it's damp or overcast out or if it's a mature woody weed with thick leaves."

Overall, white vinegar does make an effective weed-killer, only when used correctly on younger, softer weeds. Just bear in mind that results may not always work overnight, and you may have to repeat your solution.

“I've lost count of how many gardeners I've spoken to who say, 'white vinegar doesn't work,' but I think it's just a case of giving it a bit more time and persistence," Chandler says.

For more top tips, check out 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring