There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes — freshly picked off the vine and straight into your tasty meals. Even though these crops are the easiest to grow, it can be disappointing when your harvest lacks the punchy, vibrant flavor you hoped for.

In fact, this once happened to me, and it was such a let-down, especially after all my hard efforts. This time around, however, I’ve reached out to professional gardeners to uncover why this happens and to give me their top tips for ensuring a flavorsome crop.

So, if you don’t want to end up with a disappointing harvest, here are the three essential factors that determine whether your tomatoes will be packed with tasty flavor.

1. Choose the right variety

One key factor behind your bland tomato harvest could be the variety you’re growing. According to experts, you can choose certain varieties based not only on fruit size and color, but also on certain flavors. Some tomatoes are simply not as flavorful as others.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D. Horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield.

"Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before picking out your plants to grow, it is worth considering your preferred taste/flavor and researching which specific varieties match your desired taste profile. That should hopefully save you a lot of disappointment when these are ready for the picking.

For more planting tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. Let your tomatoes soak up the sun

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants and need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help them produce more fruit. Without adequate sunshine, plants struggle to photosynthesize and produce complex sugars and acids in the fruit. This essentially gives our tomato crop their tasty flavor.

"Think of the sun like a solar panel for homegrown tomato flavor — it gives them the fuel and energy they need to perform their best,” adds Corinne Beirne, gardening coach and founder of The Nourished Garden.

“Letting them ripen on the vine versus ripening them on your windowsill will maximize taste too, especially after they've been sitting in the sun for a while without too much water before a harvest." What’s more, low-light conditions are known to cause watery, bland fruit that lacks sweetness.

In addition, knowing when the right time to pick your tomatoes is can make all the difference. “For optimal flavor, tomatoes should be harvested at the right time,” adds Mercer. “Pick when the fruit has started to turn its mature color and pulls easily from the vine.

“Finish ripening it at room temperature. Tomatoes picked too early may not develop as much flavor as fruit that ripened longer on the plant.”

3. Avoid overwatering your tomatoes

While the summer heat might tempt you to reach for the hose more often, overwatering or saturating your tomato crop can actually dilute its final taste and flavor. The general rule of thumb is to water only when the top two inches of soil start to dry.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer. “Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll want to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering. You can also add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This is because fish contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all needed for healthy growth.

"I like to use a good organic fish fertilizer like Neptune's because it nourishes both the plant and the soil without being too harsh,” suggests Beirne.

“Healthy, nutritious soil provides the right conditions for the plant to produce the most flavorful fruit."

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

As the warmer weather arrives, there is nothing quite like seeing hydrangeas ready to showcase their vibrant blooms for the summer.

And with their bright blooms of blue hues, white, and pinks, hydrangeas can instantly add a splash of color to a backyard or porch plant. That’s why it can be disheartening when you start to see them turning brown too early.

Of course, once these colorful displays have finished their summer show, the dried flowers make a stunning addition to autumnal floral decor — but you don’t want that during the summer!

So if you’re wondering why your hydrangea blooms are turning brown so early, here's the reasons why and how to prevent it.

Not watering enough

Typically, hydrangeas are ‘thirsty’ plants, and once the soil dries out completely they can droop, with leaves wilting, blooms browning and generally looking worse for wear.

As a rule of thumb, established hydrangeas need roughly one inch of water weekly to thrive, aiming for a deep soaking once every 5 to 7 days. While newly planted hydrangeas should be watered a few times a week (around three inches) to help them get started and grow healthily.

Another top tip is to avoid overhead sprinklers with hand-watering, drip irrigation or hoses being the better option. This ensures that water is given low and slow so that it gets to the roots better. For best results, aim to water during the early morning hours; this allows any moisture that splashes onto the petals to evaporate quickly before the day heats up.

Too much direct sunlight

Another reason for your hydrangeas' browning blooms is direct sunlight, as they can’t cope with scorching heat. Similar to ourselves basking in the sun for too long, this can often cause sunburn and cause blooms to turn brown too early. This is particularly the case for big-leaf varieties.

In fact, your hydrangea will thrive better in morning sunlight (before the temperatures start to rise during the day) or afternoon shade.

.To prevent brown blooms, it’s best to either transplant your hydrangea plants to a more shaded location in your yard or consider adding companion plants that can provide afternoon shade.

In addition, you can keep plants cool by applying a layer of mulch around the base to keep the soil cool in the summer. Simply add a two-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help retain moisture, and it also helps to keep weed growth at bay.

Soil isn’t balanced

Furthermore, it is vital to ensure your soil pH is correctly balanced. A common mistake is to overfertilize our plants, especially when we notice our hydrangeas are starting to look a bit worse for wear.

If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it can cause flowers to turn brown prematurely. This is mainly due to a build-up of salt in the soil that can affect healthy growth and bigger blooms.

This is why it is always recommended to test your soil first, as adding more fertilizer without checking can often lead to further issues.

Another rather unusual hack is to perk up your hydrangeas with coffee grounds. Thanks to its slightly acidic quality and high carbon content, coffee grounds are beneficial to plants, contributing organic matter to the soil.

In addition, they also contain nitrogen, which is essential in the spring for promoting bigger flowers and strong stems.

Simply add around a tablespoon of coffee grounds into a spray bottle or watering can to make a weak ‘tea’. Then water your hydrangeas with the weak brew once a month until summer arrives. This is why gardeners are being urged to use old coffee grounds to feed hydrangeas now, just in time for the summer.

So, if you notice your hydrangea blooms are beginning to discolor, there is still time to revitalize them so they can finish the summer looking their very best.

For more top tips, check out how to grow hydrangeas from cuttings and avoid these hydrangea pruning mistakes. Knowing how to prune hydrangeas can keep this beautiful plant in check for spring and future seasons.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
• Hydrangea not blooming? Here’s why and how to fix the problem
• How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings — easy steps to get more blooms

What DIY dad doesn’t love a chainsaw? There’s something about owning a power tool that can dismember with the ability to dismember you that brings a little extra excitement to your outdoor chores.

But, there’s a lot of times when even the smallest chainsaw is overkill. You don’t want to look like a horror movie villain just to prune a couple of branches. For the past few months, I’ve been testing the Stihl GTA 30, an electrical pruner that’s perfect for those times when a chainsaw is too much, but a pair of loppers isn’t nearly enough. And, it’s made some of my yardwork so much easier.

The GTA 30 is basically a mini-chainsaw; it has just a 6-inch blade, and is small and light enough that you can use it one-handed. Despite its smaller size compared to even a small chainsaw, I was able to easily cut through 4-inch branches. And, because it can be used with just one hand, I was able to use my other hand to pull aside branches that were in the way.

For example, I had to remove a bush that died, but was inconveniently wedged in between two others; I was able to hold branches in one hand while I used the GTA 30 to work my way down to the base, where it sliced through the trunk like butter.

The GTA 30, which is new for this year, is an upgraded (and more expensive) version of the GTA 26. The GTA 30 has a 6-inch bar and two batteries, where the GTA 26 has a 4-inch bar and a single battery slot.

The GTA 26 kit, which includes the saw, a battery, and a charger, costs $199; the GTA 30 kit, which has the saw, two batteries, and a charger, costs $329. I suspect most will be able to use the GTA 26 just fine, but it is nice to have the longer battery charge and reach of the GTA 30.

Cleverly, the GTA 30 is designed to be used by either righties or lefties; there’s a safety switch on either side that you have to hold down with your thumb before you can pull the trigger. It's a small detail, but a nice one.

Two batteries slot into the handle of the GTA 30, and there’s a small battery indicator further up; I didn’t time it, but I cut a lot of branches before I had to recharge the batteries.

Adjusting the tension on the saw chain was pretty simple, too. You just unlock and turn a small knob on the side of the saw to remove the protective cover, and then you can move the bar around easily to get the tension that you need.

I quickly ran out of things to prune in my yard, so I lent it to my neighbors, who quickly put it to use cutting down privets and other low-hanging branches. They all found it dead simple to use.

Perhaps the greatest validation came when one of them sent me a text, asking for its name, so that she could surprise her husband on Father’s Day. Hopefully he doesn’t read this until then. Hopefully he likes it just as much as I do!

More from Tom's Guide

• I tried a new method to clean my pruning shears — here's why it can't beat my time-honored routine
• Best pruning shears: Tested and rated
• 5 hydrangea pruning mistakes you need to avoid

Now that warmer temperatures are upon us, we’re not the only ones who will be feeling the heat. Our lush lawns and plants are also parched from the heat wave, and when there are no signs of rain anytime soon, it’s not uncommon for us to increase our watering routine.

Besides knowing the best time to water your lawn, you’ll also need to know how to water your yard the right way. In fact, this can make all the difference in maintaining healthy growth. What’s more, you could be wasting water (and effort) — literally pouring money down the drain.

A gardening expert has warned of this one common watering habit we often make when watering our yards. In fact, you could be inadvertently killing your plants instead.

So before you unreel your hose or set your sprinklers, don’t make this common mistake this summer.

Don't just water the surface of the soil

According to experts, it’s not the amount of water that will make your plants thrive during summer — it’s how you water. Most often, we only sprinkle the top layer of the soil and do not allow the roots to get a proper ‘drink’.

“One of the most common mistakes I see is frequent shallow watering,” states Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and Horticultural Advisor to Platinum Spas.

“A quick sprinkle may dampen the surface of the soil, but it rarely reaches the roots where plants actually need moisture. In hot weather, much of that water can simply evaporate before it has any real benefit.”

So what’s the best method to water our yard and ensure it’s getting the right amount of hydration? “Instead, gardeners should focus on watering deeply and thoroughly at the base of the plant. The aim is always to get moisture down to the root zone.

“This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, creating stronger and more resilient plants that are better equipped to cope with dry periods.”

Additionally, experts suggest that your lawn soil should be moist 5 to 6 inches beneath the surface — however, deep watering extends this to 7 to 8 inches deep. The idea behind deep watering is to encourage deep root growth, which keeps the roots cooler and stronger, protecting your lawn during heat stress.

For more top tips on watering your lawn, check out how to water a thirsty lawn in a heatwave — lawn experts reveal all.

Avoid watering little and often

Similarly, gardeners often fall into the trap of watering little and often during the hot summer months. However, this habit can literally kill your plants, causing the roots to stay near the surface, where they are prone to drying out rapidly.

“Watering little and often can actually create weaker plants because the roots remain close to the surface where they dry out more quickly,” adds Mabey. “By watering deeply and consistently, you'll use water more efficiently while encouraging healthier growth.

“For containers and newly planted specimens, it's particularly important to monitor moisture levels during warm weather, as they can dry out much faster than established plants growing in the ground.”

So it’s always best to water your lawn and plants deeply and evenly during a heatwave. If you’re in doubt as to whether you’re giving your grass too much water, check out how often you should water your lawn in a heatwave.

Gardening watering essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardening expert reveals the best time of day to water your tomato plant — you could be making this big mistake
• Garden experts share the best time to water your lawn — and I've been getting it all wrong
• How to water your garden less — 8 expert tips that save money and help your plants

My plants have been looking a little weary lately. I'm tempted to blame the sunny weather, but I fear that I'm just not giving them the attention they need. So, I headed to social media to see if I could find a hack that would help me out (and not cost me a lot of money).

After lots of searching, I finally stumbled upon something I'd never heard of before – using matches to create my very own plant-boosting fertilizer. It's a staple of my messy kitchen drawer that I usually only pull out when I need to light a birthday candle. Suddenly, I'm looking at that little box of matches in a totally different light. Here's what happened when I followed the simple hack to help feed my plants.

How does it work?

YouTube creator, @creative_explained, has a page full of clever tips and tricks to use around your home that he shares with his almost 5 million subscribers (one of which is me). He taught me a clever potato peel hack to supercharge my garden that's saved me a bunch of money on fertilizer and he's even taught me how to clean a shower head with vinegar.

Sometimes, I like to head back into the archives on his page to see if there's any hacks I've missed and I was surprised by what I found. The video, featured above, reveals that you can feed your plants and give them a natural boost with just a box of matches and some water. Since I already have both those things in my home, I thought it was definitely worth a try – and it turns out it's really simple.

All you have to do is this:

• Put 5 to 10 matches into a container
• Fill the container with some water
• Wait for around an hour
• Give them a stir and use the pink water to pour onto your plants

He explains that by letting the matches soak in the water, it'll turn pink: "That's the phosphorous and sulfur being released into the water," he explains. "Pretty much what that means is that it's food for your plants! Phosphorous will help your plants grow these nice, healthy roots and sulfur will produce nice leafy greens."

But, while in the video you'll see him light the matches and let them burn, it turns out you don't want to do that – and I learned this first-hand when I tried it out.

Here's what happened when I tried it

As mentioned, I made the mistake of lighting the matches when I first gave this a try. I'd seen the flames that @creative_explained had lit on his video and hadn't quite paid full attention that it was just for show. Look a little closer and you'll find that the matches inside the water are still red-tipped and that's because he hasn't let them burn.

This is an important part of this hack because if you burn them, you're eliminating the phosphorous and sulfur that you need for the water to turn pink and nutritious for your plants. So, after a couple of failed attempts, I used the matches without letting them burn. Lesson learned.

I also thought I'd like to use a little more water than he demonstrates with to make sure I could feed the numerous plants around my home. So, I added 10 matches in one go to see if that would help infiltrate more water – and it did.

Now, I've only just started trying this new match-infused water trick on my plants, so it's hard to say whether it's making any difference yet. What I do know is that it was super simple to do, very affordable and I haven't seen any damaging effects to the plants.

So, I'm wiling to keep trying it out using my mom's 'Thirsty Thursday' routine in collaboration with the matches. Since it's so low-cost and quick, it's easy to play the long game and see if my plants get an extra boost. Either way, I feel like I'm creating potions and that's made remembering to water my plants a lot more fun, too.

More from Tom's Guide

• This cheap garden hack will help your roses grow — and all you need is a few old tea bags
• I've just discovered this strange hack that'll keep pests away from your plants — and it uses a popular cold medicine
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

I spent months watching white mold fuzz creep across the soil of my favorite houseplants. I tried everything: better drainage, less water, moving them to brighter spots. Nothing worked. Then I discovered that cinnamon has antifungal properties and decided to try it.

A simple dusting of ground cinnamon from my kitchen cupboard cleared the mold completely and it hasn't come back. I was skeptical at first. How could a spice work where everything else failed? But the science is straightforward: cinnamon contains compounds that actively suppress the fungi causing the problem.

After testing it on seven houseplants, I can confirm it does the trick. Here's exactly how to do it.

Why cinnamon actually works

Cinnamon contains cinnamaldehyde and eugenol, which are natural compounds with proven antifungal properties. These chemicals create a hostile surface for the common molds that appear on houseplant soil, particularly Penicillium and Trichoderma, which show up as white or gray-green fuzz.

The key is that cinnamon works as a preventative layer, not a cure-all. It slows mold growth while you fix the underlying problem — usually overwatering or poor air circulation.

In my experience, once you address those issues and apply cinnamon, the mold doesn't return. I reapply lightly every month as a maintenance step, particularly on plants in shadier corners of my home where moisture lingers longer.

The mistakes I made (so you don't)

My first attempt failed because I applied cinnamon to wet soil. It trapped moisture and made things worse. Wait until the surface is completely dry before dusting.

I also used too much cinnamon initially, creating a thick layer that repelled water instead of letting it through. A light coating is all you need

Finally, I realized cinnamon alone wasn't enough. If your houseplant is in a dark corner with a saucer that stays wet constantly, cinnamon won't solve the problem. You have to fix the watering habits and light situation first. Cinnamon is the finishing touch, not the full solution.

More from Tom's Guide

• I stopped making these 9 plant ‘care’ mistakes and now my plants are thriving
• This tiny pest causes the biggest damage to your plants — here's how to stop thrips
• Your succulent is dying of thirst every time you mist it — do this instead

With warmer temperatures, now is the time for seasonal pests to begin appearing inside homes. And if you’ve already spotted a trail of tiny insects invading your kitchen, you’ll probably be wondering how to get rid of ants for good.

While these critters are incredibly small, ants can become a real nuisance if not dealt with properly. Which is why it can come in handy to know what type of ant you’re dealing with so you can implement the right deterrent methods.

Although it’s hard to know exactly what ant species you have (without a magnifying glass), I asked the pest experts if there are certain visual clues to identify the most common ants that invade our homes. And more importantly, what’s the best way to deter them? So before you get out your trusted repellent solution, know who you’re up against first.

Common ants that can invade our homes

While there are several varieties, depending on your state and local climate, these are the more common ant species to look out for.

Odorous House Ants

These are those tiny black or brown ants commonly found nesting under floor heating, patios, or within the foundations of your home. Odorous house ants tend to have an oval body and are also known as ‘sugar ants’, since they are mostly in search of any sweet substance.

“These ants can invade in large numbers, nest in structures, and have many nests and multiple queens,” explains Scot Hodges, A.C.E. Certified Entomologist and VP of Professional Development at Arrow Exterminators. “Identifying them can be done by crushing a few and smelling them. They are said to emit a “rotten coconut” odor; however, most people have no perspective of what that smells like. They do emit a distinct odor, so if you crush a few of them and sense that.”

Still, pest experts warn you should never squash ants in your home, or else you could be inviting more ants to invade your home. So make it a daily habit to wipe down food spills and countertops immediately, and ensure you store your food correctly.

Carpenter Ants

These are much larger ants (6–12 mm) and typically black in color, although some have a red thorax. As the name suggests, these tunnel into wood and will chew through it extensively to make their nests. “Their size is a good indicator, as they are large ants — much larger than other ant species,” states Hodges.

“Finding a nest of large black ants in hollowed-out wood galleries is most likely carpenter ants. Unlike other species, Carpenter ants are also very active at night, so seeing large ants foraging at night is another indication.”

As far as damage goes, these are probably the worst kind of ant. And if you have an infestation in your home, you're at risk of serious structural damage. So it’s always best to take preventative steps to stop carpenter ants before they infest your home.

“Homeowners should be cautious of disturbing the mounds when doing yard tasks such as gardening or mowing the lawn,” adds James Copley, Chief Executive Officer of Copley Pest Solutions.

“The most effective way to treat carpenter ants is to find the nest and treat it directly with bait. Then, homeowners should remove the decaying wood. A professional should be called if the homeowner is not confident or wants to ensure full colony removal.”

Fire Ants

Typically, fire ants appear as bright reddish ants that sting and live mostly near grassy areas in mounds. So if you spot mounds in lawns, driveways, or in parks, this is a telltale sign of fire ants.

“These ants are reddish brown and their sting (can be painful),” adds Hodges. “Getting stung by one or multiple can be an easy way to identify them. Additionally, Fire Ants can be noticed outdoors from the earthen mounds they build in lawns, along driveways, patios, and walkways.

“They have been known to nest in structures, in which case they will bring dirt up into the structure to construct the nest.”

While these insects typically prefer the outdoors, they are drawn to cozy, warm, and hidden places, making a kitchen the ideal environment for them to seek food and shelter.

It’s worth noting that fire ants can be dangerous to people and pets because they tend to sting. And in some cases, it can cause severe allergic reactions similar to those from bee and wasp stings. So never attempt to handle a colony on your own; instead, contact professional pest control to tackle the situation safely.

Find out where the colony is coming from

To determine where ants are coming from, experts advise finding out where the colony is located, if possible. It could be coming from outdoors in your yard, lawn or somewhere inside the house.

“Try to track the ants to their outside colony and treat them there,” advises Gilbert. “Drench the colony with a high-quality liquid ant treatment — using a non-repellent pesticide is critical.

“If the colony is inside the house, then apply an ant-specific bait and liquid treatments where you see ants, being careful not to contaminate food surfaces or areas that children or pets frequent. Baits must be kept out of the reach of children and pets.”

Of course, if in doubt, always contact your local pest control service to find the colony and handle it safely.

Use bait traps carefully

Unlike using repellent sprays each time we spot a trail of ants, experts suggest that this is just a temporary fix and not really dealing with the colony. This is why bait traps are considered more effective as a permanent solution.

“Bait traps require patience; do not remove the traps too soon, and be sure to follow the directions on the packaging,” advises James Copley, Chief Executive Officer of Copley Pest Solutions.

“People often worry when they see more ants after placing bait traps, but that means that the traps are effectively attracting the ants. As much as it can distress homeowners when they see more of what they are trying to get rid of, you need worker ants to carry the bait back to the colony. Patience is best with bait traps; they are effective, and they will work.”

Maintain good sanitation and fix any leaks

Most ant species have one thing in common — food. And once they find sources of food and water, they will be back for more. "Many ants, such as one of the fire ant species, will invade homes for water, pet food, or scraps of human food left on floors, dirty dishes, or garbage cans,” states Bob Gilbert, MS, PHE, BCE, Board Certified Entomologist and Staff Entomologist at Blue Sky Pest Control.

“Eliminate moisture issues in the home, clean dishes and surfaces after meals, and seal pet foods in airtight containers. Feed cats and dogs at set times and remove dishes at night when ants are more likely to invade homes. Sanitation is key. Inspect your home with a critical eye and eliminate all sources of food."

You’ll want to ensure your kitchen or home is less inviting for tiny critters to camp in your home and take over.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 things to consider before using pesticide in your yard
• How to get rid of wasps — and keep them away from your home
• 7 ant-repellent plants to keep your home pest-free

Gardening doesn't have to be complicated and it also doesn't have to be expensive. I say this because I'm constantly on the hunt for hacks that'll save me money from using potato peel to supercharge my garden to using old tea bags to help my roses thrive, both of which have seriously surprised me with the results. And during my most recent scrolling frenzy on social media, I stumbled upon a really clever idea.

I've always wanted to make a miniature garden without having to spend cash on planters and pots. I'm short on space, time and money, so the hack I found was perfect, especially as I have an abundance of succulents looking for a new place to live. What's even better about is that it uses a kitchen item I already had at home (and most likely you do too). For this one, all I needed was an old milk jug. So, instead of putting it in the recycling, here's what I did instead.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @dumpsterbunny posts an eclectic mix of videos to her over 35k followers and amongst her hobbies, she shares her love of gardening. As featured above, she's even posted a hack where she takes an old milk jug and totally transforms it into a lovely miniature succulent garden. Thankfully, it's super simple to follow.

All you have to do is this:

• Cut an empty milk jug in half, just under the handle
• Take the lid off and turn the top half upside down and place it in the bottom half
• If not secure, cut two holes and use a zip-tie to secure the bottom half round the handle
• Add in small rocks to the bottom, add soil on top of that, and then add your miniature plants and/or succulents

In case you're wondering, the reason behind placing your milk jug upside down with the lid off is to create a drainage system for the bottom of your garden. And by placing the rocks down before the soil, you can prevent the soil from blocking the drainage hole underneath.

This creates a perfect environment to add whatever plants you like from ones you're propagating, to ones looking for a new home, or perhaps to create entirely new seed starters for spring.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I'm always keen to give hacks a try myself before suggesting them, just so I can make sure they actually turn out the way they've been described online. But, while I'm still in the process of propagating my succulents, for now I've only built my miniature garden pot from a milk jug and have yet to add in my plants.

I found this hack super simple and for some reason, my milk jug fit perfectly together, meaning I didn't need to use any zip-ties either. I'm mainly impressed with how it looks as I imagined the edges would be jagged from cutting it up. What I will do next though is decorate it to make it look a little more aesthetic among my other pots.

What I do know for certain is that it cost me absolutely zero dollars to create (apart from the milk, which I'd buy regardless). It also turned out to be a fun project that I could get my six-year-old involved with, too.

More from Tom's Guide

• This 10-minute gardening routine has made a huge difference to my outdoor space — here's why I do it every evening
• Supercharge your yard without spending a dime: 5 household items to repurpose right now
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

Now that warmer weather is finally here, many households have already put their best grill to good use, or are getting ready to host those backyard cookouts (World Cup watch parties, anyone?). And if you prefer cooking with wood charcoal, don’t throw out your leftover ash after your feasts.

Surprisingly, wood charcoal ash is valuable to certain plants and will help to give them a healthy boost. And gardeners are sprinkling their ash leftovers as a great soil enhancer — effectively neutralizing soil pH while providing a powerhouse of essential nutrients, including potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium — that will help your garden thrive.

From herbs and juicy tomatoes to beautiful blooms such as roses, who knew that our smoky remnants would be liquid gold for our plants? Before you sprinkle ash into your soil, however, it’s recommended to do a test to check pH. This simple step identifies the current alkalinity levels and ensures you apply just the right amount to your plants.

In addition, avoid using wood ash around acid-loving varieties and never use it on delicate seedlings, in case it causes more harm than good! For best results, stick to plants that flourish in more alkaline environments.

So before you ditch your grill waste, put it to good use in the garden instead. Here are just a few of our favorite plants that will love your leftover charcoal ash.

Succulent strawberries

There’s nothing better than fresh, juicy strawberries, and if you want a bountiful harvest this summer, sprinkling grill ash can give them that much-needed boost.

Strawberries thrive in excellent drainage conditions, so adding wood ash to the compost (before planting) can significantly help to loosen soil and improve drainage — especially when dealing with heavy clay soil. Generally, strawberries prefer a soil pH between 5.5 and 7.0, which ranges from fairly acidic to mildly alkaline.

Tastier tomatoes

Another popular plant we all love growing here at Tom’s Guide is tomatoes. But did you know that wood ash can make a great fertilizer before planting tomato seedlings in a bed?

Similarly, tomatoes require loose, well-draining soil to grow healthy and in abundance. Adding ash around the plant bed, this can improve soil quality and add essential nutrients such as potassium that can help to prevent diseases such as blossom end rot. Again, before you sprinkle ash, always check the results of your soil tests since tomatoes are a delicate plant.

For more top tips, find out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

Rosy roses

If you love roses or simply want to grow the perfect roses this summer, there are plenty of things to consider. More importantly, and depending on the variety, you’ll need the right soil pH level for them to thrive and stay healthy all season.

Typically, most rose varieties grow as perennials in Zones 5 to 11 and require a soil pH between 6.0 (slightly acidic) and 8.0 (alkaline). Depending on your soil test readings, you can repurpose your grill ash to amend the soil pH for your beautiful blooms — and get rid of nuisance pests too. This will help to ensure you have a healthy and vibrant rose garden to enjoy at all times.

Don't use just any grill ash!

While wood ash can certainly benefit your garden, it’s critical to remember that not every smoky remnant is good for the soil. To protect your garden's health, you should strictly avoid using leftovers from fatty briskets or any charcoal that required chemical lighter fluids, as these harmful additives can easily ruin your soil quality.

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With warmer temperatures here, our plants and gardens will also be feeling the heat this summer. And whether you’re a plant parent or growing veggies, it’s vital to keep up your watering schedule, or else your plants will be literally parched and end up dying.

Admittedly, I’m guilty of neglecting my watering schedule, mostly because I simply lack the time (or the energy) after a long day. That’s when I discovered this clever gardening essential that will water my flower beds naturally — without me having to lift a finger.

In fact, this method is a centuries-old water irrigation system that involves porous clay or terracotta pots. Best of all, it’s simple to use and won’t break the bank. So what are Ollas irrigation pots, and why are they my must-have tool?

What are Ollas irrigation pots and how do they work?

Ollas (pronounced ohh-yah) are porous earthenware, clay, or terracotta pots. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary clay pot with a bulb-like appearance. But the real game-changer is its ability to slowly release water into the soil and the roots of plants when it needs it.

In fact, this isn’t a clever new viral ‘hack’ — the Ollas water irrigation system was first used 4,000 years ago in China. You simply bury the terracotta ollas pot underground until its neck, fill it with water, and it will leach out water only when the soil gets dry. This is because the water is drawn out by osmosis, thanks to its porous material. What’s more, if the ground is wet, the water will remain in the olla, which means there is no risk of overwatering the soil. Impressive!

Not only does Ollas do the hard work for you, but encourages deeper root growth. For instance, if you just water the surface, this encourages roots upwards. However, deeper roots allow your plants or veggies to tap into moisture and nutrients deeper in the soil, and they can also stay cooler. Additionally, you can add liquid fertilizer to the Ollas if you want to give your roots a nutritional boost.

How I used Ollas in my yard

Ever since we started a DIY greenhouse and raised bed area, the real challenge is that the soil can often get dry quickly — especially with the temperatures rising.

Besides setting an alarm reminder on my phone, the ollas offer a much better way to water the new seeds or plants regularly. Best of all, setting it up is a breeze and only takes a few minutes of your time.

First, I dug a small hole in the soil to bury the olla, leaving 1-2 inches above the soil surface (with the neck out) to keep dirt and soil from getting inside.

Next, I packed the surrounding soil closely around the Ollas to prevent air pockets, as you want to ensure that the water can easily move into the soil and keep roots growing healthy.

I used a watering can to pour water in through the top before putting the lid on — then you simply leave it to do its work. The water will slowly leach out to provide essential hydration to the surrounding soil, keeping your thirsty plants quenched.

You'll need to refill your Ollas once or twice a week, depending on the water level, as you don’t want it to dry out. Also, if you have more than one Ollas, be sure to space them correctly — the general rule of thumb is every 2 – 3 feet in the yard for best irrigation. You can also buy various sizes to suit your outdoor space and even use in your pots or containers. Just remember where you've buried them all!

I still have yet to see how well my vegetable seeds will grow; however, this affordable water irrigation is a must-have for any gardener. Plus, it comes in handy as a self-watering pot while you’re on summer vacation too — which is a bonus.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to save water in your yard this summer
• 5 ways to keep your lawn healthy and green — without wasting water
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As the weather starts to warm up, it’s the perfect time to unwind in your backyard or outdoor sanctuary. What’s more, the brighter evenings mean you can host those summer gatherings well into sunset.

But what happens when your neighbor's hedge is too high and blocks out the natural light? Are there any legal restrictions? And what is the best way to tackle this?

Similar to knowing your legal rights for cutting your neighbors' overhanging bushes or painting shared fences, what are the rules for dealing with a neighbor’s high boundary hedge? This is especially the case when they refuse to maintain it, and it starts to become a nuisance.

Fortunately, we’ve called on the experts to weigh in on our legal rights, what steps to take, and best practices for approaching your neighbors directly. So if you want to avoid any neighborhood wars, read this first.

What are my legal rights if my neighbour's hedge is too high?

To establish whether you have any legal rights, this will depend on your local ordinances. Generally, this varies from state to state, so it’s important to check your city laws and codes.

“This is always going to be different depending on where you live, and there are likely to be some ordinances on the books that discuss hedges and their interference with your property,” states Edward Susolik. CEO & President, Managing Partner of Callahan & Blaine.

“What needs to be done is to show how the hedge is disrupting your life to give any merit to your complaint. Hedges are often zoned to be a maximum height, and that can also serve as the basis.”

“For instance, in California, there is a concept involving a spite fence, which means if a neighbor intentionally grows or keeps a hedge simply to annoy or hurt you, then it can be the basis for your claim. It’s that motive that matters.”

So what if your neighbor’s high hedge blocks natural light? While experts agree there is no general rule that would guarantee access to sunlight for homeowners, you may have a case if the hedge poses a danger.

“If the hedge creates a safety hazard, damages homeowners' property, overruns the border line between properties, or violates local code, there are more possibilities to do something about it,” explains Ashley James, Virginia Real Estate Investor and founder of TrueVision Homes.

“You need to know your local codes and laws, so it's better to contact an experienced real estate lawyer in case of need.”

Additionally, it’s useful to check the boundary lines, which can be done by a professional surveyor. Similar to overhanging branches, when that hedge is creeping over into your property, you are usually allowed to trim it away, but you need to stop once you reach your line.

Politely speak to your neighbor

Of course, the best approach is to avoid any legal disputes altogether. And experts recommend politely speaking to your neighbor about how their overgrown hedge is affecting your property or yard.

“We always want to be friends with our neighbors for our peace of mind,” agrees Johana Williams, property expert and regional manager for Utopia Management San Diego.

“I would highly recommend amicably settling the matter by talking it over face-to-face first. Politely explain that the shadow blocks the sun from reaching your favorite room or vegetable garden, which stops your vegetables from growing.

“Many homeowners don’t realize this and are usually more than kind enough to trim the hedge once they know it’s causing a problem.”

Additionally, if your neighbour ignores your concerns or proves to be uncooperative, experts advise documenting everything with dates and timestamps, in case it needs to be escalated.

“Dating the proof you have with timestamps and taking different angles of images should also be done early, with the hope that you won’t need it after that friendly chat,” adds Susolik.

“Following up with your neighbor through text or email also confirms that this conversation between you both happened. Local enforcers may need to come in, or you may need to have things mediated, and I think that’s best before jumping to the most extreme response of a suit.

"You don’t want a years-long battle that no one can easily win because neither of you thought to keep track of things early on in the dispute.”

Generally, maintaining good relations with your neighbors' can be favorable and will get you the best outcome. Or maybe you could extend an offer to assist with the maintenance of the hedge? Just be mindful of these top mistakes when trimming a hedge, as you don't want any more issues to contend with!

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• 5 rude habits your neighbors hate
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Whether you’re a keen gardener or prefer to be eco-friendly with your kitchen food waste, composting is a brilliant way to turn organic matter into nutrient-rich soil to feed our gardens and improve lawncare. Not to mention, saving you a fortune on buying bags of compost from your local gardening center!

And while there are plenty of organic scraps we can recycle to make compost at home, such as eggshells and used coffee grounds, there is one lesser-known food scrap that can make all the difference — corn husks.

According to experts, corn husks and silks are rich in carbon and can add the essential ‘brown’ layers to your compost heap. In addition, shredding these scraps into smaller fragments will improve aeration and help regulate soil temperatures. This also helps to retain vital moisture and suppress pesky weeds, which essentially boosts your soil with organic matter as it slowly breaks down throughout the summer.

So before you throw out your corn husks and silks, recycle them to keep your garden and plants healthy. Here’s how.

How to use corn husks in your compost

Typically, compost needs a 3:1 ratio of brown (carbon-rich) and green (nitrogen-rich) materials to create healthy soil. So for composting corn husks, both green and brown varieties are suitable — the latter are typically those left on the ears to protect seeds during harvest.

It’s recommended to chop up or shred corn husks and silks into smaller pieces before adding them to your compost pile to encourage faster decomposition.

What’s more, this varied mix of textures encourages quicker breakdown into the soil, boosting it with nutrient-rich organic matter — which is always a welcome bonus for any gardener.

So what about leftover corn cobs? While these can go on the pile, cobs will take longer than composting corn husks. However, cobs do have their benefits as they offer air pockets in the compost heap. This will help to speed up the decomposition process by giving it the oxygen it needs to quickly break down.

The secret weapon for easier composting (get a tumbler bin)

Although there are various compost bins and containers on the market, you’ll need the right compost bin suitable for your outdoor space. And if you want to make composting a breeze or have a smaller yard, a compost tumbler is ideal.

Compost tumblers are super easy to use and feature chambers to add and remove compost, and aeration holes allowing air each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to all parts.

All you’ll need to do is close the chambers and use the crank handle to rotate the bin five or six times every two to three days. Compared to standard compost bins where you’ll need to stir matter around with a garden fork or spade, this makes light work of a tiresome chore.

Before you do though, don’t make these 7 composting mistakes to avoid.

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Thrips are so small you can barely see them without magnification. At less than 1mm long, they're barely visible to the naked eye. Yet they cause damage so obvious you can't miss it.

The frustrating part is identifying what's causing the damage because thrips hide between petals and under leaves where you can't easily spot them. By the time you realize something's wrong with your plants, thrips have already established themselves. They feed continuously, suck out plant tissue, and reproduce quickly.

Catching thrips early makes them manageable. The challenge is knowing what you're looking for and acting fast before populations explode. Here's how to identify thrips and eliminate them before they wreck your garden.

How to identify thrips before they cause major damage

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I tend to prioritize the chores inside of my home over my garden because it's just easier to ignore. But when spring and summer roll around, I'm suddenly outside trying to enjoy my garden and I realize I've let it turn into a bit of a mess. To offset this problem, I seek out hacks like the '70/30 rule' and the '30-minute garden reset' to fix my issues in the quickest way possible.

I want to enjoy my outside space, but that doesn't mean I have more time in my day to tackle the gardening on top of everything else. Don't get me wrong though, I love my garden. I just don't love having to maintain it in the colder months.

Thankfully, I've found another hack and this one has me performing an evening routine in my garden, similar to the 'wind-down rule' where I put my house to bed by performing simple tasks like washing up and doing a quick declutter. Now, I've been venturing into the garden to do the same there. Here's why it works so well.

How does it work?

#GardenTok is full of creators eager to share their gardening tips and tricks and it's also where I end up finding a lot of the hacks that I use on a regular basis. A recent scroll took me down the rabbit hole of garden 'evening routines' where creators like @describingolivia, featured above, take time each evening to perform some simple tasks in their garden ahead of the next day.

These tasks, as Olivia explains, include watering the plants, sweeping the patio, putting furniture away and any other chores like cleaning up the grill.

But, why the evening? Well, it marks the end of the day meaning you're unlikely to spend any more time in the garden. It's also considered a better time to water your plants because the weather is cooler, but you still have to be careful not to overwater as it may leave your plants damp overnight.

Here's what happened when I tried it

While I'm not sure how long Olivia spends on her 'night-time routine' for her garden each day, other creators have suggested they carry out 45-minutes or 30-minutes of work.

For me, that's not the kind of time I have to spare. I was eager for something even quicker and decided to set a timer for just 10 minutes to see what I could get done – and it turns out that was plenty of time for some easy reset jobs.

I went on a hunt for any mess that needed tidying up armed with my pruning shears to snip off any deadheads. Then, I went around with my watering can to freshen up the plants with a light water (from the base, not the leaves to prevent fungal diseases from damp).

The same way that I declutter and wipe down surfaces at night to make my home feel fresher every morning, I realized I was achieving the same for my garden. Now, I'm enjoying my outdoor space a lot more as soon as the sun rises where I get to see my efforts from the evening before in full bloom.

It's definitely something I'll keep doing, especially since I don't really have an excuse not to head out there for just 10 minutes. I'll even get outside quickly as the dinner's cooking.

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If you’re wondering: "why is my strawberry plant drooping?", you aren't alone.

This is the most common cry for help from backyard gardeners, and it usually comes down to five culprits. A wilting strawberry plant doesn't mean it’s time to give up, it just means something is off. The real challenge is playing detective to figure out what.

Overwatering causes the same drooping as underwatering. Fungal diseases mimic pest damage. Weather stress looks like disease stress. But each problem has different warning signs if you know where to look.

Catch the issue early and your plant bounces back. Wait too long and you lose the harvest. Here's how to identify what's actually happening and fix it fast.

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Nothing beats the taste of juicy, homegrown tomatoes, and I love the thought of picking straight from the vine to use in your delicious cooking. Whether you grow tomatoes from seeds or in pots, it’s by far a cost-effective way to cut down your grocery bills.

Although tomatoes are considered one of the easiest plants to grow, the biggest challenge is maintaining a healthy harvest throughout the year. And while I’ve come across so many hacks and viral tomato growing tips (from kitchen scraps to baking soda), I just discovered the most surprising one yet.

What’s more, this household item can be commonly found in our fridges, and costs a fraction less than shop-bought fertilizers.

You may not believe it, but using milk is a lesser-known hack that every tomato plant grower should know about. Here's why.

Boost your tomatoes with milk

Milk isn't just a great source of calcium for people — it also offers a healthy boost to tomato plants. Additionally, milk contains proteins and nutrients such as magnesium, phosphorus, vitamin B and sugars that are beneficial for plants.

In fact, gardeners typically use milk to combat fungal diseases such as blossom-end rot, which causes dark, sunken spots on the bottom of fruit due to nutritional deficiencies and insufficient watering.

A simple spray of diluted milk onto the leaves or base of your tomato plants can provide a healthy boost. This clever tip essentially gives tomatoes extra calcium, supplying the additional nutrients your plants need. Plus, milk can improve overall soil health, creating microbial activity in garden beds, which, over time, contributes to a more balanced growing environment.

Just bear in mind that results can depend on soil conditions, climate, and the amount of milk applied. Avoid spraying too much, as you don’t want the odor to attract pests — leaving you with yet another issue to deal with.

How to make a milk feed for your tomatoes

Before you get your milk carton out of the fridge, it’s important that you dilute the milk with water before using on your plants.

To create a foliage spray, combine equal parts milk and water (a 50:50 solution) in a clean spray bottle, then apply the mixture directly to the tomato plant leaves.

This mixture should be absorbed; however, if you spot any residue on the leaves, you can either gently wipe them with a damp cloth or spray them with water.

For best results, spray in the morning on a sunny day. This will allow the leaves to dry quickly, and don’t forget to coat both the upper and underside of the leaf surfaces.

Alternatively, mix one cup of milk with 10 cups of water in a watering can or container to add to the soil itself. It’s recommended to wet the ground around the plants before applying your mixture.

Experts recommend treating your tomatoes with this milk solution every 10 to 14 days to fight off fungus and ensure they have enough calcium to prevent blossom end rot.

So if you want to get more out of your tomato plants this season, try giving them a milk boost to keep them healthy and juicier this season.

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• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
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I don't want to say I'm a lazy gardener, but I do really enjoy finding and using any shortcuts I can in order to maintain my outdoor space. From trying out the '70/30 rule' to giving the 'chaos gardening trend' a go, I've been pretty busy trying to transform my yard with a minimal amount of effort.

Most of the time, I feel like I'm simply adding to my already overwhelming chore list for inside my home with tasks to tackle outside. And with summer knocking on the door, it now seems I'm seriously running out of time.

Fortunately, interior designer Chris Catarino at Woodbury Furniture shared a really clever idea with me recently, just as the sun is beginning to really shine. It's called the '30-minute garden reset' and when I heard I only needed 30 minutes, I was desperate to give it a try. Thankfully, I was surprised by the results.

How does it work?

Every year when summer finally hits, it doesn't matter that I've been waiting desperately for the sunshine, I'm still totally unprepared when it does appear. But, what Catarino wants me (and you) to do with the '30-minute garden reset' is to make intentional, focused changes.

"You don't need a perfect garden to entertain," Catarino says (and I'm so relieved to hear it). "You need a well-thought-out one. Most outdoor spaces just need structure, clarity and a sense of intention to feel guest-ready in under 30 minutes."

So, no matter your plans, it feels like achieving a yard or patio you're proud of without having to spend loads of cash or work too hard is suddenly achievable.

Even better, Catarino breaks down the 30-minutes into three 10-minute blocks of defined, focused work to make following the process easier:

1. Remove visual distraction

In the first 10 minutes, Catarino says it's about streamlining the space: "Guests decide how a space feels within seconds. If there's clutter or visual noise, it immediately feels smaller and less inviting."

To achieve this, simply get rid of things that are occupying up too much space or cluttering your outdoors with no intention, like non-essential tools you could put in the shed or garage or toys that could be stored away when not in use.

2. Create instant structure

For the next 10 minutes, it's all about creating an area that is fit-for-purpose. If you're hosting friends, create spaces that are intentional for that. Catarino explains: "The biggest mistake people make is scattering furniture. A space feels more expensive and more inviting when it has a clear focus point."

This could simply be repositioning furniture into an area where people can sit together and chat, or moving seating to an area where people will feel like they can gather to eat food or have a drink. You'd create this outdoor space as purposefully as you'd do for inside your home.

Catarino adds: "You're essentially creating an outdoor 'room' in minutes. That sense of structure is what make a garden feel designed rather than accidental."

3. Add hospitality layers

And for the final 10 minutes of your 30-minute reset, it's about making your garden feel cozy and inviting with extra touches. Catarino says: "Think about what a guest sees as they arrive. You don't need decoration, you need cues that the space is ready for them."

Your garden is already a space that offers something more than you could achieve inside your home with flowers and shrubs of varying colors and aesthetic. But, adding in a bit of intentional lighting or a table setup that adds style to your garden is something easily achieved in ten minutes.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I find it far too easy to look at my garden and just think about the maintenance of the plants and flowers. And while I don't think that's entirely wrong, I do think it distracts me from focusing on creating an inviting space for guests and for myself.

I have a patio area that's looking a little worse for wear. Apart from a corner sofa that I love, it hasn't got a lot else going for it and it's also become a little overwhelmed by discarded garden items finding a place to dry off or I've thrown there to get out of my sight.

For my '30-minute garden reset' then, I focused all my time on this area because I wanted to see how truly impactful my 30 minutes could be. It turns out, it's quite a lot.

Firstly, I removed all the items that didn't need to just be sitting there and the space felt lighter. Then, I added in a couple of garden chairs I'd had folded up in my shed that I'd forgotten to use, creating extra seating for guests and a more conversational atmosphere.

Finally, I grabbed a string of outdoor LED lights to string across the fence that the corner sofa backed onto. And that was all I needed to totally transform a space that was definitely being neglected. Now that part is done, suddenly my entire garden looks a lot nicer and it took me no time at all.

If you're not sure where to spend and save in the garden, you might be interested in Stop buying cheap garden soil and tools: An expert shares 3 essentials to splurge on (and 3 you don't have to).

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At Tom's Guide, we love tomatoes. Each year, we grow dozens of them in our yards and gardens, so we're always looking for ways to get more. We've put together these stories for you, based on our own experiences growing tomatoes, as well as expert advice from those who really know their stuff.

Planting tips

Fertilizing tips

Watering tips

Pruning tomatoes

Gardening essentials we love

Tomato diseases

Harvesting

The sunny weather is finally beaming down on my yard, ready for a summer of relaxation and hosting. But, with warmer days comes a building sense of dread that my yard actually looks in bad shape. The winter weather wasn't kind to my shrubs and flowers, but that doesn't mean there isn't hope for vibrant blooms and vivid green grass, as long as I put in some work.

In fact, I've been trying hard to supercharge my yard with money-saving ideas like the potato peel hack and even boiling a few eggs to help my plants thrive. The trouble is, I don't have much time, and it's almost too hot right now (the temperature just hit 89°F where I live) to put in the effort.

If that also sounds a bit like you, then this hack I've found called the '70/30 rule' is all about making your yard lovely by doing less. Here's how it works.

How does it work?

The '70/30 rule' was kindly brought to my attention by British home improvement retailer, Wickes, in collaboration with TV gardening expert, Katie Rushworth. Launching the online 'Summer Garden Guide', they've keenly shared their expertise through a variety of top tips. One of which is this clever rule.

As Rushworth explains: "Your garden should be somewhere you want to spend your summer - morning coffee, long lunches, evening drinks. Don’t stress about keeping every inch perfectly maintained — the whole point of summer is to relax and enjoy it.

"I often recommend following the 70/30 Rule: keep around 70% of your garden ‘managed’ — clean lines, mown paths, neat borders — and let 30% go ‘wild’, with long grass, log piles for hedgehogs, and wildflower patches. This balance keeps your garden beautiful, biodiverse, and easier to enjoy without constant upkeep."

So, instead of stressing out about what the entire yard looks like and building a list of overwhelming chores that, once the sunshine hits, you just don't feel like doing, do 70% and leave the other 30% to look after itself in a wildly natural way.

Fortunately, Rushworth has a few more tips to share that make the 70% feel a little more achievable, too. Because, to me, 70% still feels like a lot.

1. Start with a simple summer reset

Fortunately, the sunny weather is a great catalyst for yards to thrive. The sunny weather and longer days are an optimal environment for a lot of plants. But, Rushworth says, you should "focus on keeping it thriving."

For this, she says: "Now is the time to deadhead spent flowers, top up and feed the soil, tie up taller plants, and stay on top of pests and weeds." And we've also put together a handy guide on the 5 plants you should never plant near your patio if you want to avoid pests.

2. Design your garden for evenings, too

It's easy to think you'll only be using your yard in the day time when you're often out there on the weekends. But, why can't the yard be a place that's also enjoyed after a hard day's work, especially when daylight lasts so much longer?

Rushworth says the focus should also be on creating an outdoor space that works for later in the day: "Plant evening-scented blooms like jasmine, nicotiana and honeysuckle, and pale flowers such as white campanula or cosmos to reflect the moonlight." I'm a big fan of eating dinner outside, so this one resonates with me.

3. Mix in edible planting

My mom has been on a herb and vegetable planting mission recently and I asked her, why now? Well, as Rushworth (and my mom) explain: "Summer is perfect for edible planting – there's nothing better than picking basil for a salad or strawberries for dessert straight from your own garden."

And while I've checked out the 7 best vegetables to grow indoors, I definitely haven't given enough thought to taking advantage of the summer for this. It also feels like a great way to tidy up a space, while bringing new life to it.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I recently moved home and I've inherited a lovely yard full of wonderfully eclectic flowers and shrubs, but it's been stressing me out that it's now my responsibility to keep it alive and thriving.

I've not quite got the green thumb I aspire to one day have, but I try my best. Incorporating the '70/30 rule' though, has immediately turned the stress of thinking I needed to maintain everything as perfectly as possible, to only needing to do about 70% of the work. And after a hot day, I'll happily take that saving.

I've also used Rushworth's 3 handy tips to turn my muddled list of ideas and research points into a more focused step-by-step guide to getting on top of my gardening. I'm almost at a point where I feel like I can happily host people in my outdoor space. It just took a simple hack to shift my mindset to a more positive one, in time for summer.

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With summer fast approaching, it's time for me to head outside and get my backyard ready for entertaining.

And if there’s one hated gardening task for me, it’s tackling those stubborn weeds. Not only do these just spring up in my lawn and patio, but they also push through the gravel in my front yard — completely ruining the overall look of my garden.

While I’ve tried all sorts of methods to banish weeds, from chemicals to boiling water, one natural hack always seems to pop up — white vinegar. It seems like white vinegar can do so much more than just remove stubborn stains and unclog drains, and it has long been a non-toxic way to banish weeds.

However, since my task of pulling weeds seems relentless, I decided to ask the gardening experts how effective white vinegar really is, when it actually works, and when it doesn’t. So before you take out your spray, here’s what the experts say.

Why is white vinegar effective at killing weeds?

So why is white vinegar considered the 'miracle' solution for eliminating weeds? It’s all thanks to acetic acid, which works by rupturing plant cells and causing tissues to dry out. As a contact herbicide, it only damages the parts of the plant it physically touches.

“White vinegar contains acetic acid, which has a nasty habit of stripping the waxy coating off a weed's leaves,” adds Michael Wheat, founder of Ponds.

“Once that layer goes, the plant can't retain any moisture, and the leaves just shrivel up pretty fast. It's a contact herbicide so it kills what it touches, but it doesn't travel down into the root system, whatever you might be expecting."

Typically, for best results, mix white vinegar and water in a 50:50 ratio within a spray bottle. Add a small amount of dish soap to this solution — it acts as a sticking agent for better foliage adherence — and shake well until fully combined.

When is the best time it actually works?

Like any solution, you’ll need to know how to use it properly for it to work. But is there a right time for white vinegar to actually work?

Gardening experts agree that using white vinegar to control weeds requires you to stick to certain best practices and apply this common solution correctly. “If you are planning to use vinegar as a weed killer, do this once the weeds are not stressed by drought and are actively growing,” advises Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“You can then spray any unwanted plants with the solution, and they should start wilting within a few hours, turning completely brown and crispy in around 24 hours. You can then reapply it every two weeks or so as soon as any new weeds appear.”

Similar to there being a best time to water your plants or lush lawn, is there an optimal time of day when to apply vinegar to weeds?

“The best time of the day is usually early morning, when the sun is not overhead, and temperatures are milder, as this will prevent the vinegar from evaporating too quickly,” adds Zaber. “It also shouldn’t rain for at least 24 hours, so that the vinegar doesn’t get washed away. ”

The only caveat is that vinegar only affects the parts of the plant it touches, which means it won’t get to the taproots underground. This is why you tend to see weeds sprouting up again due to the well-established roots and regrowth. Therefore, white vinegar is more effective on younger, softer weeds than on mature, persistent ones.

When will it not work?

As mentioned above, white vinegar won’t work on getting rid of the tough taproot beneath the soil. To tackle this, you’ll literally need to get to the root of the problem by digging out the taproots using hand forks, trowels or investing in a sturdy weed-pulling tool.

“For anything with a taproot deeper than two inches, you're better off with good old-fashioned hand-pulling after a rain when the soil is soft," agrees Glen Chandler, gardening expert and founder of Evergreenseeds.

“What most gardeners don't realize is that vinegar only burns the green parts you can see — it rarely kills the root system of established perennials like dandelions or plantain. I've watched clients spray the same patch of crabgrass three times in one season because they expected permanent results.”

In addition, white vinegar may work on only certain weed types and not others, so it’s best to identify the specific weed before applying. "Some weeds like dandelion, bindweed, and docks are pretty tough — white vinegar won't kill them,” states Wheat.

“The top bit of the weed will go brown within a few hours, but then it's straight back to business as usual — the deep roots are still intact, and the weed is back to its old tricks in no time. It also struggles if it's damp or overcast out or if it's a mature woody weed with thick leaves."

Overall, white vinegar does make an effective weed-killer, only when used correctly on younger, softer weeds. Just bear in mind that results may not always work overnight, and you may have to repeat your solution.

“I've lost count of how many gardeners I've spoken to who say, 'white vinegar doesn't work,' but I think it's just a case of giving it a bit more time and persistence," Chandler says.

For more top tips, check out 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

It turns out there's a common household ingredient we can all turn into a cheap and easy-to-make natural fertilizer for our gardens. And chances are, you've already got it waiting for you in your home: potatoes

Potatoes are a simple and versatile cooking item, but its uses don't end there. Instead of throwing away the potato peel, keep it for this gardening hack instead and save yourself some money.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @creative_explained, is constantly sharing helpful tips and tricks that you can use across your home and garden. I should know, he taught me how to clean a shower head with vinegar. With over 7 million followers, he's clearly got some great ideas, but there's one in particular that caught my eye recently.

As he explains in the short video featured above, there's one common household ingredient you could be using to help your plants thrive – potatoes. Even better, it's the potato peel that you're most likely discarding when cooking that you can turn into a natural fertilizer for your outdoor space.

All you have to do is this:

• Put potato peels into a cup
• Fill it with water
• Cover with foil and put in your fridge for a week
• Then strain the liquid to pour onto your garden plants

The expert says, "What you have right now is a super nutrient-rich mixture packed with phosphorus, potassium, magnesium." And to see results, he recommends repeating this every two weeks.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I've been trying out a lot of gardening hacks recently, especially since the sun has begun to shine. From burying old tea bags to boiling eggs, I'm saving a lot of money, but I'm always eager to see what else I can recycle from my day-to-day life.

Fortunately, I live in a household that eats a lot of potatoes. Other than composting the potato peels though, I've never tried doing anything with them. The first hurdle was keeping a container of potato peels in the fridge for a week without someone trying to throw it out.

Once I'd mixed my potato peels and stored them in the fridge, I took my murky water to the garden to see how my plants would feel about it. For now, it's a little early to say if it's yielding any results. From some research, though, I've learned that phosphorus, potassium and magnesium play crucial roles in plant development, all of which will come from the potatoes.

As long as I'm patient enough to wait for the potato peels to seep into the water every couple of weeks, I think this will be a hack I try all summer long. If I see some good results, I imagine I'll do it all year round. I'll just have to remember not to throw my peels out!

More from Tom's Guide

• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
• 7 clever ways to store garden tools and save space
• I tried this $23 garden tool to rid my patio of weeds — and it's super handy

The warmer weather lately has made me appreciate the roses and other early summer flowers coming into bloom outside — and, of course, puzzle over problem areas of my backyard.

If you're also frustrated by gaps in your borders, interested in growing some veggies, thinking about buying a robot lawn mower, or want tips in tackling garden pests or other problems, then ask our experts for their advice. The live Q&A ran Wednesday 20 May between 7am and 12pm (US Eastern Time).

Answering your questions we have Camilla Sharman, our homes and gardens writer and gardening aficionado; Cynthia Lawrence, our Homes editor; and Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith. Between them and their years of experience, I'm confident there's nothing they can't answer.

Ask a question with or without photos

It's easy to join in; just type your question into the 'Live Q&A' box below and we'll reply as soon as we can. You should get a notification when we do so, but it's also worth checking back to see what other people are asking as you'll likely pick up some useful tips to try in your own yard!

You can even submit a photo with your question, to help our experts and other readers to understand what you'd like help with. To do so, upload your photo and question together in the Comments section at the bottom of this page (the Live Q&A module can't handle photos yet, sadly).

On that note, feel free to chime in if you've found a hack that could solve someone else's problem. We can't get enough of supportive contributions from our community.

Memorial weekend yard improvements, anyone?

Hello everyone, Ella here, engagement editor at Tom's Guide and massive gardening geek! In case you missed our announcement article earlier in the week, today we're running this session to help you with your lawn and gardening questions.

If you're planning a Memorial Day barbecue and want to spruce up your outdoor space, looking to emulate your favorite aspects of of the Chelsea Flower Show gardens, or wondering how to look after your lawn in the heat, then ask our experts. The lines are now open, so fire away!

Are cheap robot lawn mowers worthwhile?

Reader Mary Smyth1 was the first to ask a question, almost as soon as we posted our announcement about this event! She asked, "I'm seeing lots of robot lawn mowers pop up at stores like Lidl and Aldi - are there any under 500 that are worth buying or do you recommend sticking with a manual one?"

Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith, gave us this answer for Mary:

There is something genuinely satisfying about a manual mower. Doing the lawn yourself and standing back to see those neat stripes and a job clearly done is a nice feeling, and for some people, that little bit of effort is half the point of having a lawn. So, if you enjoy it, there is no rush to give it up.

That said, a robot mower is worth it if you ask me. They cut just a little bit each day, which keeps the lawn at a steady length and helps the grass fill in thicker over time. Even the basic ones from places like Lidl or Aldi manage that fine, without turning the whole thing into some big project.

You do still have to lay the boundary wire around the edges first, though, and that takes an hour or two of fiddly work to get right. It is worth checking the height settings too, so you can let it run a bit higher in summer when the grass prefers being left longer.

Weeds stay a bit tricky, since the clippings just sit there rather than getting collected. Running the mower every day cuts most of the heads off before they spread, and pulling out an old mower with the box on for a week or so helps catch the rest. That part tends to get overlooked at first, but it makes a real difference.

So, under £500, I would say go for it, especially if mowing is not a job you love. You might even keep the old manual one for those times you fancy doing it yourself.

In a pickle with your pear tree?

Reader Ash Star asked this question, "Any tips on keeping pear rust at bay? Its ruined my tree for the last few years."

To which our homes and gardens writer and gardening aficionado Camilla Sharman replied:

It can be a worry when you spot pear rust on the leaves of your tree. It appears as orange spots on the upper leaf surface and forms bulky growth on the underside, and it's caused by fungus.

For the fungus to complete its life cycle, it needs both a pear and juniper tree, as the juniper harbors the fungus in winter and it moves over to the pear in spring. Do you have a juniper close by in your yard?

If you plan to eat the fruit — and frankly, I'm sure you do — it's not recommended that you use a fungicide on your tree. Instead, prune out the affected material. However, to stop the fungus spreading, don’t compost the material.

The other option is to remove the nearby juniper (if this applies to you).

My turn to get my narrow garden's problem pathway solved!

Ella again here! The above photo of my garden shows my problem: I'm in the middle of renovating my 1930s home and can't wait to tackle the garden once the builders are done. I have a long and narrow garden in Bristol, South-West England, which is on a steep hill. There's an old concrete path running down one side, and because the plot is on a hill, the path is raised at the point nearest the house.

It feels unsafe for my kids to ride bikes down as it's fairly narrow and raised about a foot off the height of the lawn at its highest point. I also hate how it makes our narrow garden feel even narrower (admittedly the relatively wide borders don't help with that either!)

My question for the experts is if and how I should remove the path, to replace it with a more naturalistic walkway — or if it would be better to build up the height of my lawn to make it safer and hopefully blend it in a bit, visually?

Homes writer Camilla answered: I'd like to suggest removing your border shrubs and replacing them with a climbing plant, like clematis, to help widen your space.

Lawnsmith expert Jonathan Davis advised:

There is no single right answer here, so it is about weighing up how much work, money and space you want to put in. A few options to think through.

The least disruptive route is to build topsoil up to the path so the drop closes. You bring soil up to the gap, level it off, and let it settle naturally over the next year or two. It is the cheapest and easiest in the short term, but bear in mind it does not change the look much, the concrete path stays, and on a slope, the new soil can settle unevenly, so it may need topping up before it really beds in.

The bigger job is to remove the path altogether and lower it down, so a new walkway sits flush with the lawn. That deals with the drop properly and lets you swap the grey concrete for something softer like informal paving or bound gravel, which suits a long, thin garden far better. The trade-off is labour and cost, since breaking out and relaying a path is a proper project rather than a weekend.

It is worth thinking about the borders too, not just the path. You have already spotted that they are eating into the width, and pulling them back a little, perhaps a foot or so each side, would give you back some usable space and ease that narrow feeling. The thing to weigh up is how much you can afford to remove without losing the look and feel of the borders.

So, it comes down to your priorities. If quick and cheap matters most, build up to the path and accept that the look stays similar. If you want the garden to genuinely feel different, removing the path and trimming the borders together, while the builders are already in, gets you the biggest change for the most effort.

We really do love hearing from you ♥️

By the way, we were inspired to run today's event thanks to you, amazing Tom's Guide readers. You consistently show up to vote in polls like the one above, to leave us comments on gardening articles asking for more information or letting us know that you tried one of our hacks, and it really does brighten up our days.

But more than that, it helps us to understand your interests and challenges at a personal level, and to respond with helpful articles.

For example, the poll above revealed to us that almost 1,500 of you (at the time of writing) have problems with squirrels in your garden, so our shopping team put together this roundup of 9 products to deter squirrels from your garden. Personally, I'm on team slugs as my greatest enemy.

Today's event has a similar philosophy, but at a much more personal level, as we're diving in with answers to your individual scenario.

So please do keep the questions coming, with or without photos, and as much information to help our experts as you can give please!

If you've never left a comment on our site before then you may need to sign up to post your first question. It's free to sign up and will unlock a host of other Tom's Club member benefits, such as exclusive rewards and savings, the ability to earn badges and enter giveaways, join in with popular conversations and all Live Q&As, and reveal hints for our quizzes and puzzles.

Feeling inspired by the Chelsea Flower Show?

In case you missed it, it's Chelsea Flower Show week in London, and King Charles, Queen Camilla, and Sir David Beckham are among the guests this year. The King and Sir David even collaborated on making a show garden.

You may not have the space or inclination to host a giant hand-carved Mother Nature sculpture in your backyard (maybe one day, hey)! But has anything else caught your eye and got you feeling inspired to recreate a bit of the world's greatest flower show back home? One thing that's really caught my eye is the trend for gentle, trickling pools and water features as calming spaces, which I'd love to incorporate in my space somewhere.

Astroturf, be gone!

Kate asked, "How can I turn my small, south- facing walled garden into a fragrant and colourful haven with fruits and flowers? I’m moving to this house soon and wondering what to plant when I remove the plastic grass."

To which garden writer Camilla answered:

Wow! I have garden envy. A south-facing walled garden means you have lots of options. Firstly, I’m glad you are going to rip up the artificial grass; you’ll instantly increase biodiversity in your garden and improve drainage.

For a small garden, I would recommend growing climbers to add vertical interest without taking up much space. Honeysuckle, climbing roses and Star jasmine are all great plants to grow, adding color and fragrance to your garden. For an easy climber, I’d recommend Clematis Montana.

Lavender is another favorite with a beautiful aroma that loves a dry, sunny spot — it’s perfect in a bed, as a hedge or in a container. Another option for containers and hanging baskets is scented geraniums, which also add a bright pop of color if you choose red or pink blooms. Herbs are another good option, for both their culinary use and aromatic scent. I’m a keen fan of thyme, which I plant in the ground and containers. It really depends on your preference; a curry plant or rosemary are other options to consider.

If you have a small garden, you might be restricted in what fruit you can go, but you can find dwarf versions of apple and pear trees. You can also grow soft fruits, such as strawberries. For something more exotic, I have a fig tree in a container, but I’m still working on a decent fruit to eat.

Kate replied, "What a great reply, thanks so much. I am taking my potted blueberry bushes with me to this garden. I love your suggestions for climbing plants. A fig tree is a good idea. Herbs, definitely work for me, too. Thyme tumbling over the walls of the raised beds could be pretty. Thank you for all your ideas."

How to save a 'leggy' clematis

Next up, reader jemmajmartin asked, "I have a very large clematis in my garden that has been there for 20 years or more. We have neglected it a bit and it's become woody. When and how can I cut it back?"

And our garden writer Camilla was quick to answer:

It’s well worth taking care of your clematis, as you’ll be able to enjoy an abundance of blooms. However, they can become messy and unruly if they are not pruned, just as you've experienced.

Before you get started, ensure you have a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears; they’ll help you make a clean cut without infecting the plant.

However, pruning clematis is not straightforward as there are three types, and they need pruning at different times:

Type 1: These are early-flowering climbers that bloom in late winter and early spring on last year’s growth. You can prune them back after they finish flowering.

Type 2: These are large-flowered show-stopping hybrids that flower in spring and summer on last year’s growth. This type is best pruned in late winter or early spring, so it’s not a good time right now.

Type 3: These produce flowers on the current growth and flower later than the first two types, blooming in mid-to-late summer. They are the easiest to prune, and should be cut right back to 12 to 18 inches above the soil. However, you’ll need to wait until late winter or early spring before doing so.

I love your question Jemma, and we'll be following up with a feature on how to prune clematis very shortly.

Grass alternatives?

amsipams asked, "We have a peat-based soil, we are south west facing so get plenty of sun, but the garden still seems to be damp and patchy most of the year, we cannot install a soak away or drainage, is there an alternative to grass that we could use as a ground cover that would be more successful?"

So of course we put the question to lawn professional Jonathan, who said:

"Clover would be my first suggestion for ground like yours. Peat-based soil holds onto a lot of moisture, and even with a sunny aspect, grass really struggles where the ground stays damp and cannot drain freely. It is one of the main reasons lawns go patchy, the grass just cannot get the conditions it needs at the roots.

A clover or micro clover lawn copes with those conditions far better. It stays green through damp spells, fixes its own nitrogen so you are not constantly feeding it, and gives you that low, even ground cover you are after without the bare patches. It also holds up well to foot traffic and tends to stay greener through dry summer spells than a standard lawn, since it roots deeper. Micro clover blends in particular look closest to a traditional lawn if that is the finish you want.

One thing to be aware of, clover does flower, which brings in bees, so it is something to think about if you have little ones running around barefoot. Regular mowing keeps the flowers down, but it is worth weighing up before you sow."

Camilla added: I've recently written about alternatives to traditional lawns, including 'lazy lawns', and clover makes a perfect choice.

...Or do you want more grass?

Lawns are emerging as a popular theme today! In contrast to amsipams' previous question about alternatives to grass, mwray59 asked, "How do I get rid of white clover that has taken over my lawn without harmful chemicals?"

To which Jonathan Davis at Lawnsmith has answered:

The good news is you can knock clover back without any chemicals; it just takes a change in how you look after the lawn.

Clover takes over when the grass around it is weak, and that almost always comes down to low nitrogen in the soil. Clover thrives in those conditions because it makes its own nitrogen, while the grass cannot.

So the single most effective thing you can do is feed the lawn properly with a nitrogen-rich lawn feed through spring and summer. As the grass picks up and thickens, it starts to crowd the clover out naturally, which is really the only long-term fix.

Fruit tree problems

Reader mwray59 has asked a second question, this time about their fruit tree: "I also have an apple tree that never leaved out or bloomed this year. The branches are still pliable. I don't know if it's dead or what."

Camilla offers this advice:

It’s good to know that the branches of your apple tree are still pliable. This is a sign that it’s still holding onto water. You can scrape back the bark to check the layer underneath. If it’s moist and bright green, then the tree is still alive. If you give a branch a bend and it doesn’t snap, it’s also a good sign.

It does take a few years for apple trees to mature, which will delay when they bloom, but I assume from your question that your tree has blossomed and produced fruit in the past. It could be the case that the tree is still dormant and needs a little longer to wake up.

Another issue could be that the roots are restricted or the soil is poor, and it can’t gain the nutrients it requires. Ensure it receives adequate water, mulch around the base and add some fertilizer.

That reminds me

Last week, we published two articles about fruit trees that may help other readers: one on fixing yellow lemon tree leaves and the other, inspired by a reader poll, on how to get lemon trees to fruit.

So you're not alone in having issues with your fruit tree, mwray59!

What's everyone else working on?

We’re nearing the end of today’s Live Q&A session already, and the time has flown! So let's check in on the results of our poll above.

Right now, the answers to ‘Which bit of your garden do you most want to improve?’ are:

43% say Lawns

30% say Planting

13% say Landscaping

9% say Seating

4% say Better tools

0% say Water

So for those of you who have voted in the poll but haven't asked a question yet, I've pulled together some of our best recent articles that I hope can help you.

We’ve already answered quite a lot of questions about lawns today, and the team also have a suite of helpful articles on this topic. I recommend you check out 5 common lawn care mistakes that are killing your yard, I tried the ‘lazy’ lawn method, and Why you should stop watering your lawn every day this summer.

For planting tips, check out 7 zero-maintenance plants that will make your front porch look amazing and skyrocket your curb appeal as well as 5 super-fast flowers to sow in May to get your garden blooming quickly and I tried the viral 'cardboard method' in my raised garden bed — and it totally worked.

When it comes to landscaping and outdoor seating, you may find some perfect purchases in this guide to Memorial Day outdoor deals and the 25 Walmart patio and garden deals under $50 that will make your backyard look more expensive.

And finally, we’ve tested all manner of gardening tools, such as the best robot lawn mowers, the best pruning shears, and also have helpful guides such as 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

Pests pestering your veggies?

Many of us gardeners are familiar with hungry caterpillars and green aphids. But Kate has asked about some white veggie pests: "I have been growing spinach and red chard in my garden for several years. The only trouble is that tiny white moth-like flies turn up under every leaf and start to eat the leaves too. Is there a natural way to deter them or remove them before they kill off the plants, please?"

Camilla has come back with this tip:

It sounds like whiteflies are enjoying your vegetables. Natural predators, such as ladybugs and spiders, will help to control them. You could also try companion planting, introducing highly scented marigolds and herbs that confuse and deter whiteflies, while pollen-rich, flat-topped flowers and certain aromatic herbs will deter them, while also and encouraging ladybugs.

You can also give your plants a blast with a hose or a spray bottle to dislodge the insect and their eggs. Alternatively, spray your plants with a mixture of dish soap and water (a dash of dish soap per gallon of water).

That's us signing off on today's Live Q&A. Thanks so much to everyone who voted in our poll and posted questions.

And even bigger thanks to Camilla and Jonathan for sharing their years of expertise and passion. I've found it all super valuable and hope you did too!

PS If you're tuning in a little late, you can add a comment to the bottom of the article with any more burning questions, and we'll endeavour to get back to you when we can!

Aloe vera has a reputation for being basically unkillable. It thrives on neglect, survives drought, and asks for almost nothing. Which makes it all the more alarming when you glance over and notice the leaves going yellow.

A yellowing aloe is rarely a dying aloe. It's a stressed one, and stress, in plants, is almost always traceable to a specific cause. Get the diagnosis right and the fix is usually straightforward.

There are three main reasons aloe vera turns yellow, and the quickest way to work out which one you're dealing with is to look at the leaves themselves. Their texture tells you almost everything.

The three-second squeeze test

Before you reach for the watering can or move the plant across the room, do this first: squeeze a leaf gently between your fingers. That's it. The texture tells you almost everything you need to know.

• Soft, squishy, or slightly translucent — you've been overwatering, and possibly have root rot developing
• Firm and solid but yellowing or bleached — sunburn stress, usually from too much direct light too fast
• Thin, curling, or wrinkled at the tips — your aloe is actually thirsty

Keep that result in mind and read on. Each cause has its own fix, and once you know what you're dealing with it's usually a straightforward rescue job.

More from Tom's Guide

• Yellow lemon tree leaves? Here’s how to get them lush and green again
• Why are my tomato plant leaves turning yellow? 5 steps to save your harvest
• Why are my peace lily leaves turning yellow? 3 steps to bring back the green

As long as I can remember, I've always had a vegetable garden of some sort. When I was a kid, I would help my dad grow tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and more. When I lived in an apartment, I had at least one basil plant, and in my current home, I have several raised garden beds.

Throughout, there's been one common enemy: weeds. So, to combat them this year, I decided to try a new trick I first read about on Tom's Guide, and guess what? It totally worked.

It's called the "cardboard method," and involves laying down a few sheets of cardboard over top your planting beds to prevent weeds from sprouting up. As someone with no shortage of cardboard boxes, I decided to give it a try.

Preparing the bed

In late March, I flattened a few cardboard boxes out and placed them atop one of my raised garden beds. I then tossed about an inch or so of dirt and soil over top the cardboard, and then pretty much forgot about them for the next month. Except for a few days, it was still far too cold to plant anything outside.

A little more than one month later...

The weekend after Mother's Day proved ideal weather for planting; I picked up a bunch of tomato plants, some green beans, carrots, lots of basil, and s few pepper plants (don't worry; they're not all going in the same place).

So, it was time to see how well the cardboard method actually worked.

Success! Except for an errant potato plant (I have no idea how it got there) and a weed or two around the edges — the only area the cardboard didn't cover — my planter box was weed-free.

Even better, when I went to plant the tomato seedlings, the cardboard had decomposed, so I didn't have to poke my trowel through the fibrous paper. I planted the tomatoes in the ground, and then watered them. Now, I just have to wait until they grow and ripen.

The takeaway

I was pleasantly surprised at how well the cardboard method worked. It saved me from having to buy any kind of covering, and allowed me to reuse packaging that would otherwise have been tossed. I definitely plan on doing this again next year. I might even try these other ways to use cardboard in your garden, too.

I'd like to hear from you — have you tried using the cardboard method? What tips or tricks do you have for keeping weeds at bay in your garden? Let me know in the comments.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 top tips for growing juicy tomatoes
• 5 vegetable crops to grow in May for a homegrown harvest
• I bought the viral Grampa's Weeder and it's my favorite gardening tool

May marks the arrival of spring and the time when hydrangeas burst into life, covered in buds and ready to bloom for the summer season.

Hydrangeas are a popular choice for instantly adding color to a backyard or porch plant. Trouble is, hydrangeas are prone to easily wilting or not thriving at all in hot weather if not properly fed or cared for — especially this month.

In addition, hydrangeas are known to be 'thirsty' plants. So if their soil lacks water-retention capability, they are prone to wilting, browning, or poor flowering come summertime.

Luckily, gardening experts are recommending a natural (yet surprisingly effective) way to help your hydrangeas beat the heat and thrive. What’s more, this involves a common kitchen scrap that most people throw out every day. It won’t break the bank, either, so it's a win-win!

Perk up your hydrangeas with coffee grounds

It seems we’re not the only ones who need a boost throughout the day. Used coffee grounds, a previously ditched item, have proven to be a surprisingly secret weapon in the gardening world, and a great hack to perk up plants.

This is all thanks to its slightly acidic quality and high carbon content — which are beneficial to plants — contributing organic matter to the soil. This makes a great homemade fertilizer for acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas, azaleas, and even roses.

In addition, they also contain nitrogen, which is essential in the spring for promoting bigger flowers and strong stems. This is why gardeners are being urged to use old coffee grounds to feed hydrangeas now, just in time for the summer.

In fact, there are so many ways that you can repurpose your old coffee grounds to help your yard thrive. From decreasing soil pH and enriching compost to repelling slugs and other pests. Who knew that the answer to reviving plants is in our kitchen cupboards?

How to feed hydrangeas with coffee grounds

It’s always advised to dilute coffee grounds, as any organic matter is typically more potent than commercial feeds.

Simply add around a tablespoon of coffee grounds into a spray bottle or watering can to make a weak ‘tea’. Then water your hydrangeas with the weak brew once a month until summer arrives. This coffee-ground ‘tea’ should give your plants a nutrient boost to give them the head start needed for sunnier, warmer temperatures.

Alternatively, you can sprinkle a thin layer of coffee grounds around the base of your hydrangeas just before watering.

It’s best to start with a small amount and use only leftover coffee grounds from your usual brew. Fresh coffee beans are much stronger and significantly increase the risk of over-fertilizing your plants.

So after you make your morning coffee, don’t ditch your used coffee grounds — your hydrangeas might need them more.

For more top tips, check out how to grow hydrangeas from cuttings and avoid these hydrangea pruning mistakes. Knowing how to prune hydrangeas can keep this beautiful plant in check for spring and future seasons.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
• Hydrangea not blooming? Here’s why and how to fix the problem
• How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings — easy steps to get more blooms

Hydrangeas produce massive blooms that make entire bushes look spectacular, then suddenly the stems bend, flowers hang limply, and the leaves lose their firmness despite the plant looking green and otherwise healthy.

Drooping happens when hydrangeas can't maintain turgor pressure, the internal water pressure that keeps stems rigid and leaves perky. Environmental stress breaks this down: too much or too little water, wrong sun exposure, or poor soil drainage.

The frustrating part is that opposite problems look identical. Underwatering droops them. So does overwatering. Too much sun droops them. So does too little. You need to diagnose the actual cause before fixing it, here's how.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
• Hydrangea not blooming? Here’s why and how to fix the problem
• How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings — easy steps to get more blooms

I love my garden, but I also don't want to spend a lot of money on it. Fortunately, there are plenty of hacks that I've stumbled across online to help cut costs, like boiling eggs to help your plants thrive to a space (and money) saving spring planting idea.

Sometimes, hacks appear that I didn't even know I needed, but they make a lot of sense. For example, my recently-inherited rose bush is doing a great job at producing lovely blooms, but when my YouTube algorithm told me that I could be doing an even better job at helping it just by grabbing a few old tea bags, well, I was intrigued.

And I drink a lot of tea. Arguably, too much, but who's counting? Fortunately, it looks like my tea drinking habit will work great for this viral hack and my roses will be thanking me with vibrant blooms all summer long. Here's how it works and why I'll be putting it to the test.

How does it work?

Of all places, I was pretty surprised when YouTube Shorts was the answer to my rose-growing wishes. After inheriting the rose bush I have in my garden when we moved into our new home last fall, I've been eager to make sure I'm doing it (and the garden) justice. And as our first summer with roses looms, I've been on the lookout for affordable gardening tips to help the cause.

And then @EdenMakers video came across my feed. In it, she explains to her over 100k followers that roses love tea. She says: "I have a job for my tea bag," as she proceeds to toss it into the soil under her rose bush and bury it into the soil.

She says: "It'll add some natural acidity to the soil, which roses love." And it's really as simple as that. The tea releases tannins into the soil that lowers the pH level, which as explained, they love.

In the caption, she adds that it's very important to remove any staples or string from the bag (if they have them) as these won't decompose. You should also check whether your tea bags contain any plastic as this can also cause an issue in the soil, opting for those made from paper, plant fibers, or cotton instead.

What happened when I tried it

With an old tea bag in hand, I headed for my rose bush to bury it into the soil. Fortunately, since I've been composting my tea bags for years, I know that I don't need to do any extra admin to make sure the tea bag is ready to be planted. No strings or staples here!

But, it's also a little too early to tell whether my roses are benefiting from the tea bags. It's not an immediate effect, but something I know I'll have to keep doing, sharing the acidity with the roses from the black tea leaves on a regular basis.

Alternatively, you can also wait for your tea bags to dry, split them open, and sprinkle the tea leaves around the top of the soil. Or, if you steep your tea, you can just wait for them to dry and add them directly without having to deal with the bag.

I'll be sure to keep an eye on my rose bush though and see if I notice any change. And in the meantime, I'll hunt for other plants in my garden that like the acidic soil to use the hack there, too.

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• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
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With warmer temperatures on the way, lawn care is a top priority for many. And if you take pride in having a yard with lush, healthy grass, you'll likely want your backyard to maintain its green appearance all summer long.

While you might think the obvious solution is to water your lawn daily to revive dead grass or keep it hydrated in a heatwave, you could be doing more harm than good. This is only made worse if you’re watering your lawn at the wrong time, too.

So, before you put your sprinklers on, here’s why experts want you to stop watering your lawn every day this summer.

Stop watering every day

If there’s one thing I hate during the summer months, it's scorched grass. However, besides providing hydration, overwatering can also deprive your lawn of the air it needs.

“If you water your lawn every day (or even every other day) for the standard 15-20 minutes, you’re actually creating more problems for your lawn than you’re solving,” states Craig Elworthy, Founder at Lawnbright.

“Watering too frequently keeps the soil consistently wet and unable to breathe. By watering frequently, you're also training the root system to stay near the surface, where water will always be readily available. As a result, the roots have no incentive to drive deep and away from the effects of the harsh summer sunlight on the first couple of inches of soil. The first two inches of soil are especially prone to the heating effects of the sun, which will scorch shallow roots.”

Additionally, turfgrass roots must grow deep to find water, moving past the top few inches of soil where the sun's heat is most intense.

How often should you be watering your grass?

If daily watering isn't the solution, what is the right frequency for hydrating your grass? And exactly how much water should you be giving without damaging your lawn?

“To help develop deep roots, water infrequently (once or twice per week) and deeply,” adds Elworthy. “Your watering session should allow for at least a half to three-quarters of an inch of water per session. This is significantly more than your standard 15-20 minute cycle. Depending on the water pressure and sprinkler head output, this could be measured in hours.”

In addition, if you notice browning or wilting, or spot uneven yellow patches of grass around your lawn, this could indicate they are getting less water than other areas. On the other hand, an overwatered lawn will show visible footprints and a squelching sound when you walk on it. Another way to check is by touching the surrounding soil: if it feels dry, your lawn likely requires watering.

Expert-approved tip: “To measure how much water your sprinklers output, place a coffee cup on your lawn and run the sprinklers for 30 minutes. You can measure the output with a ruler or measuring tape, then double that to determine the amount of water your irrigation puts out per hour. It’s probably less than you think.”

What specific times in the day are better for the lawn?

Alongside knowing the right frequency for watering, gardening experts also recommend a specific time of day for the task. “The best time to water is early in the morning, ideally between about 5 am and 9 am,” advises Skye Durrant, founder of LawnGuru.

“That gives the water time to soak into the soil before the heat of the day causes evaporation. It also allows the grass blades to dry out during the day, which helps reduce fungus and disease issues. I would avoid watering at night because the lawn stays wet for too long and can develop disease and fungal issues.”

However, if you must water your lawn later in the day, gardening experts suggest doing it between 4 pm and 6 pm. This timing is ideal because it gives the grass a chance to dry out and recover before the sun goes down.

What is the most effective way of watering the lawn

For the most efficient watering, an in-ground sprinkler system with a smart controller is recommended. These smart systems prevent overwatering by adjusting to current weather conditions and rainfall.

If you are using hose sprinklers, however, they can also be highly effective. The key is to ensure the watering is even and lasts long enough to thoroughly soak the soil, avoiding a small surface wetting.

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Nurturing seedlings into vibrant blooms awash with bees and butterflies, caring for lush emerald foliage and encouraging a swathe of even lawn is pure joy, in my book. But gardening is not without its challenges. Luckily, from slugs decimating tender crops to bare batches of grass, our team of gardening experts have seen it all — and, crucially, know how to help.

So today we're inviting you to ask our experts anything related to gardening and lawn care, completely free of charge, right in time to make this summer the best year yet for your outside space.

Need some advice on reseeding your lawn? Just post a comment in the 'Live Q&A' box below. Thinking of installing a pond or water feature but not sure where to begin? Let us help. Can't choose between a robot lawn mower vs a manual? Drop us a comment. We will reply to each and every question we receive when we open up our Live Q&A on Wednesday 20 May at 7am-12pm ET.

Answering your questions will be Camilla Sharman, our homes and gardens writer and gardening aficionado; Cynthia Lawrence, our Homes editor; and Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith. Between them, I'm confident there's nothing they can't answer.

Ask a question with or without photos

As active followers of waaay too many gardening Facebook groups, we know that sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words in conveying your garden dilemma. Because of that, we're happy to accept photos via the Comments section on this article. Just submit your photo and some words to explain what you want help with, and we'll post our response in next week's Live Q&A article. We'll include your photo and our advice side-by-side, as it may help other readers to see the full story.

On that note, when the Live Q&A launches, feel free to chime in if you've found a hack that could solve someone else's problem. We can't get enough of supportive contributions from our community.

All questions must be related to gardening and lawn care, and we're encouraging everyone to ask questions in the run-up to next week's event (make sure to leave a comment in the Live Q&A box above, or in the Comments below if you're sharing a photo as well). Your question won't be visible to you or others until we flick the switch to make the session go live — but don't worry, we'll have received it so there's no need to send it again.

It goes without saying that we won't answer any questions with inappropriate or offensive language or photos. This Live Q&A is designed to be an open space for anyone looking for help, no matter how "silly" you think that question may be.

Please include as much information about your backyard as possible, to help the experts to give you a really useful answer. Considerations such as where (approximately) you live will be crucial in suggesting plants that grow in your climate, for example. Things like the size of your garden, which direction it faces and the soil type (if known) may also be useful!

If you've never left a comment on our site before then you may need to sign up to post your first question. It's free to sign up and will unlock a host of other Tom's Club member benefits, such as exclusive rewards and savings, the ability to earn badges and enter giveaways, join in with popular conversations and all Live Q&As, and reveal hints for our quizzes and puzzles.

I'll go first

I'm in the middle of renovating my 1930s home and can't wait to tackle the garden once the builders are done. I have a long and narrow garden in Bristol, South-West England, which is on a steep hill. As you can see in the photos below, there's an old concrete path running down one side, and because the plot is on a hill, the path is raised at the point nearest the house.

It feels unsafe for my kids to ride bikes down as it's fairly narrow and raised about a foot off the height of the lawn at its highest point. I also hate how it makes our narrow garden feel even narrower (admittedly the relatively wide borders don't help with that either!)

My question for the experts is if and how I should remove the path, to replace it with a more naturalistic walkway — or if it would be better to build up the height of my lawn to make it safer and hopefully blend it in a bit, visually?

We can't wait to hear from you — let us know what you'd like help with now.

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Snake plants are supposed to be indestructible. They tolerate neglect, survive low light, and go weeks without water. So when yours starts leaning, flopping over, or completely collapsing despite looking otherwise healthy, it's worrying.

Falling leaves aren't cosmetic. They signal the plant is structurally compromised at the base, either from roots that can't anchor properly or stems that have gone soft. The plant can't physically hold itself up anymore.

Here are three reasons your snake plant is falling over and how to fix each one.

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In spring, ants can become a real nuisance. But, there's one type of ant whose presence in your home can cause a huge problem and that's carpenter ants. True to their name, they love wood and they'll chew through it extensively to make their nests. If this happens in your home, you're at risk of serious structural damage.

Noticing these large black or red ants crawling in or around your home can be the first sign of trouble and while there's 3 steps to get rid of carpenter ants, what would be even better is to prevent them damaging your home in the first place.

Here's 5 simple things you can do around your home to stop carpenter ants infesting your home, before it's too late. It's important to note that ants get even more active in the summer months and they're mostly nocturnal, meaning you want to take these steps now rather than leave it until you start to notice a real problem.

What are carpenter ants?

You might be wondering how you tell the difference between regular ants and carpenter ants. Well, it's pretty simple. Carpenter ants are a lot larger, measuring around a quarter- to half-inch in length and they also tend to be black or red in color.

You'll also notice them gathering crumbs of food around your home like your usual common household ant, but another clear sign of carpenter ants is that they leave little piles of sawdust near wood in and around your home. This is because they don't eat the wood. Instead, they mulch it to build tunnels and networks, hence the structural damage.

You may also begin to notice strange little scratching noises from within your home if they've really started to burrow. They're harder to find as they'll be hidden within your wood, but these signs will certainly be a good indiciation that they may have taken up residence.

5 steps to stop carpenter ants

1. Seal gaps

This one might sound obvious, but take it from me, I didn't even think I had any gaps until I started to notice a trail of ants finding their way into my home. I don't even know exactly where they were coming from, but once I sealed one gap, they found another one to come through instead. Fortunately, they weren't carpenter ants this time, but that doesn't mean they wouldn't be next.

Seal any gaps you find around your home with appropriate sealant like caulk. This can be used easily around doors and windows, wherever you notice any small holes. After all, carpenter ants may be larger than regular ants, but they're still small enough to find a way through tiny gaps.

2. Find and fix leaks

Carpenter ants love moist wood. It's softer and easier for the ants to chew through and they prefer their nests to be built within an environment that can keep at a level temperature and certain level of humidity. So, if you've got any leaks in your home, especially those around wood, you're simply creating the perfect home for carpenter ants to settle in.

And while they'll start off in your moist wood, they're more than happy to move into the dry wood surrounding it, if you let them in. So, fix any leaks and call in a professional if you've found any that you can't contain yourself.

3. Trim plants near your home

Carpenter ants are smart insects that are eager to find a way into your home. So, if there's any plants like branches or vines surrounding the entry points to your interior, chances are carpenter ants will try and use them as a bridge to gain access.

For this, if you trim down any trees and shrubs you have that are touching your home, you'll be able to eliminate the opportunity. This is a great preventative measure that won't take you long to do.

4. Replace any damaged wood

Much like the step where you should fix any leaks in and around your home, if you find any damaged or moist wood, it's a good time to replace it. That wood will lure in carpenter ants looking for a new place to call home and you don't want it to be your home that they choose.

As well as removing or replacing any wood, you might also want to think about reducing any excess wood you have around your home like dead tree stumps or piles of logs you may be storing near your home.

5. Use insecticides as barriers

It's most likely that you won't reach for the insecticides until you've already spotted the carpenter ants in and around your home, but if you place them down as a preventative measure, then you'll stop any getting in in the first place.

A simple dust, foam, or spray will work at lining any door or window cracks where you're concerned they may get in. These residual sprays will kill any carpenter ants as soon as they come into contact with it and will hopefully send out a message to other ants to not enter. You can also set up ant bait traps around your home if you want to eliminate any nests that might be nearby.

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Warmer weather is here, which means it's the perfect time for me to finally get outdoors and enjoy my backyard. But despite my best intentions for planting, I consistently face one significant challenge — compacted or poor soil.

It just seems I'm always struggling with the soil in certain areas of my yard, regardless of the season. In fact, experts agree that if your soil is hard, doesn't soak up water well, or is full of weeds, you've got bad soil — which I've seen a lot of lately.

I decided to ask the gardening experts why poor soil can make or break your yard and what I can do to make my garden thrive this summer. Here’s what they had to say.

What causes poor soil quality?

So what are the main reasons for my poor soil quality? “The two biggest culprits are compaction and poor drainage,” states Kevin Lenhart, Landscape Architect and Design Director at Yardzen, “Compacted soil is hard and dense, making it very difficult for roots to spread and water to infiltrate. Heavy foot traffic or driving equipment over soil are common causes of compaction.”

Essentially, compacted soil layers stem from a variety of factors, such as insufficient organic matter or mulch, heavy rainfall, excessive watering, the mixture of clay soil with sand, and even the pressure from heavy equipment or structures. “Poor drainage will make most plants struggle or outright perish. Heavy clay soils are particularly notorious for having poor drainage,” adds Lenhart.

In addition, it’s always recommended to check the health of your soil quality. “The first thing to do to determine the issue is to test the nutrient levels in your soil and its pH to establish if you have proper fertility and if your plants can access it,” adds Chris Cerveny, expert gardener and co-founder of Just Good Soil.

“That healthy soil is built over time, and practices such as tilling and 'turning over your beds' collapse air space, causing compacted and often water-logged soil. Instead, layer organic amendments on top of your soil and use generous amounts of compost on the surface.

"Then follow regenerative gardening practices to build life into it. Adding organic materials such as compost, organic soil food, and mulch can improve most garden soil quickly.”

What signs do I need to look for?

Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, it can be difficult to identify the signs that your soil is actually harming your plants or foliage. But what do you need to look for?

“By the time your plants show problems, such as yellowing leaves, small or non-existent veggie harvests, or just lack of growth, it’s often too late,” advises Cerveny.

“Testing your soil early in the season can help you improve it before the plants show problems. If you have an area of your garden that has underperformed in the past, there’s a good chance your nutrients are lacking or are out of balance.”

A soil testing kit, readily available online or at a gardening center, is an easy way to determine your soil's key components. This test will reveal the soil's texture, pH level (acidity or alkalinity), organic matter content, and the amount of nutrients currently available.

Another expert-approved top tip is to do the ‘slake’ test, which can determine if you have healthy soil. “To test for soil structure, the 'slake test’ is a way to measure it,” advises Scott Kent, owner at Hungry Worms.

“Simply take some clumps of your soil, place them in a screen, a tea bag, or something that will keep the soil in place but allow it to be submerged in water. Take note of how quickly the clumps of soil lose their form or dissolve into the water. If your water quickly becomes dirty, then you have poor structure. If you clump of soil stays intact and your water stays clean, you have good structure.”

How can I fix my soil if it's in bad condition?

Thankfully, I learned that my poor soil could still be saved, as long as I made sure to stop making those common mistakes. The key here is that good soil health is crucial year-round, as it reduces damage and plants failing from a variety of issues, including pests, weeds, and diseases. So if you’re struggling with poor soil quality, here are some top tips on how to fix it.

Amend with organic matter or mulch

It’s recommended to add a layer of material to the soil surface to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature, creating better conditions for plant growth throughout the seasons. You can apply a generous layer to the soil surface around your plants, making sure to keep it away from the stems. Replenish this layer regularly as it naturally breaks down into the soil with time.

“Without sufficient organic material, plants struggle to thrive,” states Tim Clapp, Head of Range and Qualified Botanist at Verve Gardening. “Adding organic matter like compost improves soil structure, boosts nutrients, and supports beneficial microbes for healthier plant growth.”

In addition, tilling compost into the soil can help with compaction, but in more extreme cases, extensive soil aeration may be needed.

Avoid overdigging the soil

Another common mistake is overdigging the soil. While digging soil seems to be a necessary gardening activity, excessive digging can disturb the fragile top layer.

“Overdigging soil can disrupt its natural structure, damaging beneficial organisms and breaking down essential networks that support plant health,” adds Clapp. “Minimizing digging helps the soil to develop naturally and maintain soil stability to improve water retention and encourage stronger root systems.”

Use the right fertilizer

While it’s beneficial to use fertilizer, incorrect use or over-applying fertilizer can actually damage both your lawn and plants. “Choosing the right fertiliser ensures plants receive the nutrients they need for strong, healthy growth,” adds Clapp.

“Seaweed fertilisers are especially beneficial as they are rich in trace elements, improve soil health and stimulate root development. They work naturally with plants, enhancing resilience to stress, pests and disease while promoting balanced growth.”

Just be sure not to make these 5 mistakes when applying fertilizer to your yard. Plus, your kitchen trash can could be hiding these common items that'll fertilize your yard for free (yes, free!).

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Summer is almost here, and it is the ideal time to get planting. If you prefer the taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes, why not grow your own tomatoes from seeds or in pots? Not only is this natural choice chemical-free, but it’s also a cost-effective way to cut down your grocery bills.

Perhaps the biggest challenge many face is how to get the most out of their crop and increase yield for a bumper harvest. In fact, tomatoes are known to be heavy feeders, needing a substantial amount of nutrients to support healthy growth. These essentials include potassium, zinc, calcium, nitrogen, and phosphorus — all of which can be found in common kitchen scraps that we usually throw out.

I recently found a surprising yet simple way to help your tomato plant flourish, and give it a healthy boost without relying on the usual fertilizers or viral tomato-growing tips. What’s more, this kitchen ingredient is a staple for everyday cooking — so be sure not to throw out your onion peels afterwards. Here’s why.

The power of onion peels

According to gardening experts, onion peels can be made into a liquid tomato fertilizer to give your plants a healthy boost. Not only can this significantly cut down on the need for synthetic fertilizers, but it also has the potential to enhance the overall health of the soil.

Surprisingly, onion peels contain all the micronutrients that plants need, such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and potassium, vitamin C and B6. Research also shows that onion peels can reduce the risk of diseases and pests in some plants. As a result, you can expect a healthy boost for your tomatoes, resulting in a more flavorsome taste. Can’t ask for more than that!

How to make onion peel fertilizer for your tomatoes

There are a few ways to use onion peel scraps on your tomato plants. The most effective method is to make a liquid fertilizer or tomato ‘tea’. Simply put your dried, leftover peels into a container, soak them in one quart of water, and leave for a couple of days.

Next, strain the liquid to separate the peels. After straining, remove the peels and dilute the mixture by adding four parts plain water to every one part onion water. Then you just need to apply the solution directly to the soil. You can use this homemade fertilizer ideally when transplanting seedlings and then every three weeks after.

Alternatively, you can grind the onion peels into a powder and sprinkle directly onto the base soil of your tomato plants. For this, you’ll need to first bake them at 200°F (90°C) until they become brittle, and then grind them in a coffee grinder. Similar to using ground eggshells, the soil will absorb these small pieces faster, giving your tomato plants a healthy boost.

Or if you have excess onion peels or don’t have the time to do those tasks, you can always add your onion scraps to your compost heap, which is a great way to include all the nutrients from onions into your soil.

So if you want to get more out of your tomato plants this season, repurpose your onion scraps for a juicy return.

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It's that time of year when ants become a real problem, foraging for food and water as the spring warmth wakes them up. These smart pests are persistent. I should know, I've been sealing up gaps around my home to stop them coming in for what feels like forever at this point.

But, while my problem at the moment is just little black ants, I'm always on the lookout for a more sinister pest – carpenter ants. Much like carpenter bees, they've earned their name because they love wood. That love of wood can become a real problem for you as a homeowner, going from a small problem to devastating structural damage very quickly. So, here's everything you need to know about these pests from identifying them to getting rid.

What are carpenter ants?

Your regular everyday ant is usually small, black and harmless. Carpenter ants, on the other hand, are the some of the largest ants you'll find, measuring at around a quarter- to half-inch long. They're usually black, but some species can also be reddish or even yellowish in color.

As they're distinctly larger than your common household ant, they should be easier to spot, most likely around wood in or around your home. And while they're not eating your wood like a termite would do, they are building nests in it that can cause some extensive damage to your property if not caught in time.

Carpenter ants remove the wood and move the debris outside of their nests in small piles. They especially love damp, sound or decaying wood, so if you've got any leaks or moisture issues around your home, carpenter ants may be lured in.

How to spot carpenter ant damage

While carpenter ants dig inside the wood, it does mean you may notice the piles of debris they leave behind from their nest, which looks like wood shavings. You may also notice them lining up outside or inside your home, spotting they've got noticeably larger bodies than your usual ant.

If you suspect carpenter ants, you can also knock on any wood where you suspect an infestation. If you notice it sounds hollow or empty, there's a chance a carpenter ant nest could be burrowed inside.

They can also set up camp inside your walls, floors or other hidden areas, so it's worth checking if you've noticed any loitering around. These can range from worker ants looking for food to winged ants flying around. The winged ants are a more troubling sign of a colony infestation because they may be looking to form an entirely new one.

While spotting a few carpenter ants might not necessarily mean there's an infestation, here's what you should do if you find one and how to prevent one from happening:

1. Use an insecticide

You can buy a carpenter ant specific insecticide to spray onto the pests both indoors and outdoors. You can also set up ant bait traps that will attract ants and then they'll carry the slow-acting poison back to the nest to share with the colony. This should hopefully wipe them out.

2. Remove or replace wood

If carpenter ants have settled into your wood, it's likely they've done so because of moisture or decay in the first place. But, they will have made it worse. To remove the ants, you'll need to remove or replace the wood entirely and for this, you may want to get in a professional.

2. Create a DIY treatment

As @brunchwithbabs demonstrates to her over four million followers on TikTok, you can also make up your very own DIY carpenter ant killer. Simply mix 1 1/2 cups of warm water with 1/2 cup of granulated sugar and 1 1/2 tbsp of Borax. Then, soak cotton balls in it and place them where you've seen the ants. As Babs says: "The sugar will attract the ants, the Borax will do the rest."

3. Call in pest control

If you do find any particularly serious damage to your home or find a large nest, it might be a better idea to call in pest control to deal with it. At this point, a spray or removal of the wood might cause more damage than it's worth.

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If there’s one gardening chore I truly despise, it’s battling with notorious weeds. While I’ve tried weed killers and DIY natural hacks, it feels like no matter how many I remove, they just pop up everywhere.

From my lawn and patio to poking through the gravel stones in my front yard, these weeds not only spread rapidly, but they also ruin my yard's overall aesthetic.

So I decided to ask the gardening experts if they had a secret ‘insiders’ tip that I hadn’t caught onto, or a magical solution to banish weeds once and for all.

To my dismay, there isn't a magical cure or ground-breaking product that I can use — however they all agree on one thing. In fact, this simple, two-fold tip is frequently overlooked while we focus on the clear-up. Here's what they always recommend.

Get to the root of the problem

Experts all agree that the one (and only) way to tackle stubborn weeds for good is to deal with the root of the problem — literally.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels. Alternatively, cut the new leaves as soon as they appear to force the plant to use the energy stored in the root, killing it over time.”

To get the job done, make sure you invest in the right weeding tools, and we would advise you spend a little extra for a durable one.

Remove the entire root system by simply pushing the tool's blade 4-6 inches deep into the soil next to the dandelion stem. Angle the blade to go under the main root, then use the tool to lever the whole plant upward out of the ground.

“For true removal, you have to target the weed roots,” agrees Gene Caballero, cofounder of GreenPal. “Hand pulling them when the soil is moist or using a tool to extract the full root is paramount. You can also spot treat it with selective herbicides if needed.”

Maintain a thick, healthy lawn

Another top expert-approved, preventative measure for controlling the spread of weeds is to maintain a lush, healthy lawn.

“I don't think there is one true fix for removing weeds permanently, but a fail-proof approach is building a thick healthy lawn that will crowd out weeds naturally,” advises Caballero.

“The best method is to combine pre-emergent to stop new weeds, make sure you're mowing at a proper height, and water deep and in frequently to help strengthen your turf. Doing this consistently is what actually makes weed removal permanent.”

Typically, it’s recommended that you follow the one-third rule when mowing — never cut more than a third of the grass height during any single mowing session. This is to avoid stressing your grass and promote thick growth that naturally suppresses weeds.

"Alternatively, if you do not mind using chemicals, herbicides are another great choice, while also being less physically demanding than the other two options," adds Zaber. "However, these are the most effective when combined with good lawn care practices to prevent new weeds in the future."

In addition, try to overseed thin or bare patches in your lawn where weeds commonly take root. And if you're unsure whether your lawn needs it, check out our guide on how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding — 3 signs you can't ignore.

So if you want to say goodbye to unsightly weeds for good, prevention is always better than the cure (and manual labor).

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• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

There's something quietly defeating about walking past your garden bed in spring, seeing a flush of green leaves reaching upward, and waiting for flowers that never come. Irises are dramatic, gorgeous bloomers, and when they go silent, it's worth figuring out why.

Almost without exception, the culprit isn't disease or pests. It's a shift in growing conditions — something that's crept up gradually and can, with a little patience, be undone. Just be prepared: irises work on their own timeline.

Whatever you correct this season, you're gardening for next year's blooms. Here's why your irises aren't blooming and how to fix it.

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With summer fast approaching, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy, especially if you're hosting backyard gatherings.

And while you might have taken steps to prepare your lawn during the winter months, the cold snap can affect the growth of your grass. This is because turfgrass usually goes into a dormant state in order to conserve energy and survive winter temperatures. This essential process effectively halts growth until the weather becomes warmer.

But if you want to ensure a healthy, greener lawn just in time for summer, you'll need to do this one critical gardening task in May. In fact, doing this can make all the difference to the overall appearance of your lawn. So what is this key job?

Don't forget to scarify your lawn in May

Essentially, scarification involves tearing up the top layer of soil to remove dead grass, heavy thatch, moss, and other debris that have built up on your lawn. This is similar to the process of dethatching, that aims to remove the thatch layer that builds up between the soil and the lower parts of the grass .

The key difference here is that scarifying is a more intense process that gets further deep into the ground, cutting grooves into the soil to remove moss and other build-up. This also allows adequate aeration to the soil.

And while a thin layer of thatch benefits grass, too much creates a barrier that prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots, effectively suffocating the lawn.

What’s more, this can cause your lawn to become spongy and prone to disease, ultimately ruining your lush, healthy grass.

Think of scarification as a deep cleansing process for your lawn. This allows the grass to "breathe" again, helping the spread of healthy development by allowing fresh air, water, and essential nutrients to enter the soil and be better absorbed.

May is a crucial time for your lawn, particularly if you have warm-season grasses.

After the dormant winter, the grass enters its growth phase, making it a critical time for the root zone to receive oxygen, water, and vital nutrients.

In addition, May is when the soil in your yard will have warmed enough to encourage active root development — making this the perfect opportunity to tend to your lawn and help it thrive. What’s more, if your lawn has been compacted with dead grass, thatch or other debris, it will be unable to absorb vital nutrients — preventing it from reaching its full potential.

How to scarify your lawn

To do this crucial job, you’ll need to have the right tools. Be sure to have the best gardening gloves, a lawn mower, a leaf rake, a scarifier (for larger lawns), or a springbok rake for smaller yards.

First, gardening experts advise watering your lawn a few days before scarifying. This is because watering the lawn prevents the soil from drying out, which can cause the turf to tear during the process. Next, you’ll need to lower your mower's cutting height to cut your grass short, aiming for a length of approximately 2-3cm. This allows for the blades to reach the debris properly without obstruction.

Use a scarifying tool or a springbok rake, depending on your lawn's size, to start removing heavy moss and thatch. Move the tool steadily across the lawn, allowing the blades or tines to lift the debris. For best results, it’s recommended to work in one direction, but if the thatch is particularly heavy, repeat the process at a slight angle.

Once you’ve finished, you’ll need to immediately collect the excess debris with a sturdy leaf rake. Try not to leave it on the lawn for too long, as this will block light, air, and nutrients — defeating the purpose.

Don’t forget to seed and feed the grass afterwards to give it a better chance to thrive. Spread grass seed over patches and apply a seasonal fertilizer to give it that healthy boost for the summer.

So if you want lush grass this season, you’d better get out and do this crucial job before it’s too late. For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's and 7 budget hacks for a stunning green lawn.

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When it comes to our gardening supplies, quality soil can make all the difference to help our plants and homegrown produce thrive.

But, as I’ve come to learn, not all soil types are created equal. And while I had assumed that topsoil and gardening soil both do the same thing, I had been buying the wrong type all along. In fact, you’re probably guilty of buying the wrong soil for your yard too.

So how do you know which soil is best for your needs? Luckily, I called on the experts to share the key differences and why it’s important to know (for your yard’s sake). Before you head down to your nearest garden center, find out all you need to know about topsoil and garden soil, and when to use it.

What is garden soil and what can you use it for?

Garden soil, often called planting mix or potting soil, is essentially a type of soil created specifically for use in containers and gardens. It mainly consists of both organic and inorganic matter and nutrients, such as compost, peat moss, sand and perlite. However, the exact composition of garden soil can vary. So what can you use it for in your yard?

“You can use garden soil for in-ground planting areas such as flower beds, vegetable gardens, and the upper layer of raised beds,” advises Jessica Mercer, Horticulturist | from Plant Addicts. “It is meant to improve fertility, drainage, and structure, so roots have a better place to establish.”

If you’re planning a big gardening project or planting beautiful flowers, then garden soil is recommended to use.

“Garden soil will be used in larger-scale gardening projects, if you’re looking to adjust your levels or dig up your pre-existing ground,” adds Chrissie Handley, a lawn care specialist and gardening expert working for Online Turf.

“Whereas topsoil can be used for smaller projects, like flower or vegetable beds, or as a base for turfing. Some people assume garden soil will be the same quality level of topsoil, which isn’t true, garden soil can have a range of natural debris, like stones, bugs, etc., as it comes from the ground”.

Before choosing garden soil, it’s helpful to know and be able to identify your soil type, to get the most out of your gardening results. In fact, soil type often gets overlooked, and this is the one gardening mistake that could stop your plants from thriving. So be sure to get to know your dirt with a soil testing kit that you can easily buy online. This can also determine your soil’s texture, pH (acidity or alkalinity), organic matter content, and available nutrient content.

What is topsoil and what can you use it for?

As the name suggests, topsoil is the layer of native soil that goes on top of your your pre-existing ground. Similarly, this tends to be packed with rich organic matter and microorganisms and comes in different forms.

“There are different types of topsoil (e.g. clay, sand, loam) depending on where it was sourced,” advises Mercer. “Bagged forms are available to fill low spots, improve grade, topdress a lawn, or add bulk to the bottom portion of a raised bed. It is useful when you need soil volume, but by itself it is usually not rich enough for heavy-feeding plants like vegetables.”

Depending on what you need topsoil for, what is the best method of applying it to your yard? “I’d actually recommend mixing it into the pre-existing ground to help create a lighter, fluffier mixture altogether, which will harbour growth better,” recommends Handley.

“But some gardeners will simply sprinkle on top for a healthy top layer, it can also be used to sprinkle over the top of seeds, etc., to help them germinate and to stop birds from picking seed off your ground. ”If you’re planning on sowing seeds this season, check out these 7 tips for sowing seeds outdoors this spring for a blooming garden.

By understanding the difference between topsoil and garden soil, this should now make your purchasing decision for your backyard much clearer. Plus, this can be a costly investment, especially over the long term — and so it’s vital that you buy the right soil for your gardening needs.

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I'm always on the lookout for garden hacks from 'lawn forking' to space saving spring gardening in a bid to save myself (and you) from making costly investments.

One thing you're very likely to be spending a fair amount of money on is fertilizer. It promises to give your plants a crucial boost, feeding your soil with nutrients. But, it turns out, you might have a kitchen item in your home already that's a perfect, and budget-friendly, alternative – eggs.

I eat a lot of boiled eggs. My husband even jokes that one day I'll turn into one. But, I'm not ashamed because eggs are full of protein and nutrients. What I didn't realize is by pouring away the water that I've used to boil my eggs, I've been preventing my plants from receiving similar benefits. So, before you throw away that water, here's what you should do instead.

How does it work?

Influencers such as @shaynateresetaylor, who boasts over a million followers on TikTok, urge garden enthusiasts to save their water to pour onto soil instead. She says: "The nutrients in egg shells when boiled release into the water and are amazing for your plants and will make their soil happy!"

All you have to do is keep the water, let it cool, and pour it directly onto your soil. It won't cost you a thing and it'll provide a nutrient-rich solution for your plants. Of course, the more eggs boiled in the water, the better.

Full of calcium carbonate and other minerals, it's also important to check that your plants thrive with a calcium boost. This includes plants and perennials like lavender, cabbage, buckeye, hardy geraniums, and more. It's also a really great way to treat tomatoes which are suseptible to bloosom-end rot if they're lacking this one specific nutrient.

Adding in the boiled egg water will also make your soil more alkaline rich. So, be sure to check if your plants prefer acidic soil. For this, you might want to check the soil's current pH levels before you add it.

Other ways to use eggs in your yard

So, you've used the water from your boiled eggs, but you don't have to stop there. You also shouldn't throw away the discarded egg shells. In fact, there's actually 11 surprising uses for eggshells in your home and garden, including crumbling up the shells of your boiled eggs as an additional fertilizer alternative.

You'll only need to repeat this every two weeks or so. So, if you don't love eggs as much as I do, you'll still have plenty of opportunity. The cracked egg shells (scrunched in your hands or with a kitchen utensil) will give them a natural boost on top of the egg water you've already used.

But wait, there's more. Once you've used up all the eggs in your carton, gardeners urge you to use the cartons in your yard, too. From acting as the perfect home for your seed starters to naturally deterring slugs, egg cartons are another garden accessory that won't cost you any extra. It turns out one box of eggs can really go a long way in your yard.

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The warmer temperatures are finally here, and it’s the ideal time for tending to our backyard. However, this season also brings the tedious task of pulling out and getting rid of those relentless weeds, which are the bane of my life.

Not only do these weeds quickly invade your lawn or patio, ruining the overall appearance of your yard, but they are notoriously tough to remove because of their large central taproot. What’s more, they pose a threat to nearby flowers and plants by smothering and suffocating their ability to thrive and grow.

And while there are plenty of non-toxic, homemade hacks around, such as white vinegar, salt, and dish soap, I’ve just discovered a rather unconventional hack to banish weeds for good.

According to a patio expert, this little-known solution is ‘one of those tips people tend to come across by accident’, and you’re most likely to find this item in your laundry room, rather than in your gardening essentials. So what is this unusual hack?

Banish weeds with washing powder

It seems like laundry detergent can do so much more than just get your clothing and fabrics fresh and clean. Powdered detergent can actually tackle patio weeds — making it a cost-effective weed killer.

“It is not widely talked about, but it works in a simple, practical way,” states Julian Nelson, patio paint specialist at Premium Paints. “Biological washing powders [a.k.a. detergents] are designed to break down organic matter, and weeds are no different in that sense.”

“Unlike more commonly shared methods, washing powder works by gradually breaking down the structure of the plant itself. When applied directly to weeds and lightly dampened, the enzymes begin to disrupt the surface, causing the plant to dry out over a few days. It is particularly effective in the narrow gaps between paving slabs, where weeds tend to return again and again.”

As many households are looking to save money or become more eco-friendly, there are tons of DIY weed-killing hacks that are becoming popular online. However, Nelson states that although methods like using vinegar or boiling water are widely recognized, they are often not applied consistently or the right way.

“A lot of the more common hacks get overused or do not deliver the results people expect,” he says. “This one tends to fly under the radar, but for weeds in cracks and joints it can be surprisingly effective without costing more than a few cents.”

Additionally, now is the right season to tackle weeds in your yard, lawn or patio. This is because there is still a mixture of mild temperatures and moisture in the air which is the perfect conditions for small weeds to grow quickly. That’s why it’s so important to catch weeds early, before they get out of hand and spread deep roots, which makes removing them a much more challenging gardening chore.

How to use powdered detergent on weeds

If you’re dealing with stubborn weeds (especially those growing in patio cracks), Nelson suggests this targeted homemade solution is ideal. What’s more, it’s easy to apply directly — simply sprinkle the powder onto the weeds and leave it to get to work. Alternatively, you could pour boiling water afterwards to stunt any root growth.

“What people like about it is how little effort it takes,” Nelson adds. “You do not need to keep reapplying it or mixing different solutions. You put it down, leave it, and let it work.

“As with any method, precision is important,” adds Nelson. “Biological washing powder should be applied directly to affected areas rather than spread across the whole patio, as it may impact surrounding plants if overused.”

Bear in mind that this method is only recommended for spot-treating specific areas rather than applying it everywhere. The idea is to just focus on where the weeds are coming through, without affecting the rest of your plants/yard. So the next time you’re out of your usual weed killer (or even white vinegar), you might want to check out your laundry essentials for a fuss-free solution this season.

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With warmer weather finally here, you'll want to make sure your lawn is in good shape for the summer. And while regular mowing and leaving some grass cuttings on the lawn afterwards is a great way to fertilize and put nutrients back into the soil, you could also face the issue of clumping.

Not only can it be unsightly to see large clumps of grass on your lawn, but it's also detrimental to its health. These clumps take a significantly longer time to decompose and integrate into the soil. What’s more, they can suffocate the grass underneath, causing damage and inhibiting growth.

Luckily, this is a common problem and can easily be fixed with these simple checks. Here's how to fix it for a lush and green lawn this season.

So what causes your lawn mower grass cuttings to clump?

There are several reasons, but the main reason could be cutting damp/moist grass, depending on the climate. A good way to determine this is to cut on a dry or warm day to see if clumping occurs. If it still does, then it could be down to the type of lawnmower you're using.

Typically, standard mowers will do a good job at cutting the grass, but will only spread even cuttings with sharp blades. Alternatively, you can opt for a mulching mower that is designed to disperse clump-free cuttings.

Lastly, consider how often (or little) you mow your lawn. According to experts, if you leave your grass to grow too long and then cut it short, this can result in clumping.

Easy steps to fix lawn mower clumping

Fortunately, you can quickly resolve the clumping issue and protect your grass with a few simple solutions.

The easiest one is to simply mow over the clumps of grass again to break them down. You could also shovel them up and add them to your compost bins for a cost-effective method and organic fertilizer.

Essentially, to prevent grass clippings from clumping, the key is preparation. Always be sure your lawn is dry before mowing, and maintain sharp mower blades for a clean, even cut.

Another good tip is to have a regular mowing schedule, so that you don't leave your next cut for too long. Again, this is key to preventing grass clumps and maintaining a healthy lawn.

For more top tips, I asked gardening experts for the three secrets to a greener lawn.
You might also be interested in: Don’t make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

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Dandelions spread fast once they establish in your lawn. A single plant produces a white seed head containing hundreds of seeds that disperse with the slightest breeze, scattering across your yard and into neighbors' lawns. Within weeks, one dandelion becomes dozens.

The key to controlling dandelions is removing them before those seed heads form and spread. Once dandelions go to seed, they're extremely difficult to manage because their deep taproots regenerate even when you pull the visible plant. A small piece of root left in the soil grows back into a full plant.

Timing matters more than method when dealing with dandelions. Here are three natural ways to eliminate dandelions and how to keep them from coming back.

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Spring has sprung and that means the birds, bees, and butterflies are returning to our yards. When I hear a loud buzzing though, my first thought is whether I need to reach for my guide on how to get rid of carpenter bees. But then, I wonder if it's actually a totally different story. Maybe the hummingbirds, one of my favorite feathered friends, have finally returned.

Each year, I'm hopeful that I can attract more of the lovely little birds to my yard. And while I adopt tips for attracting more hummingbirds annually, April itself presents the perfect time to plant some perennials, shrubs, and even vines to boost my chances of a hummingbird spot.

Below, I've listed 7 spring blooms that are perfect for turning your yard into a hummingbird magnet. It's worth checking your zone on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map before you invest though, as each pick states where they'll grow best.

1. Azalea

Azaleas are not only a high-nectar source which hummingbirds love, but they also tend to bloom in lovely, vibrant colors with pink, red, white, purple, and orange flowers all common.

Not only will your yard delight with all the hummingbirds, but you’ll also be hard-pressed to find a spring bloom that is as vibrant as an azalea. This plant thrives in well-drained soil that’s quite acidic, as well as being perfect for border or container planting.

Azaleas thrive in USDA zones 3-10.

2. Catmint

Catmint (also known as Nepeta) is a great perennial to plant in early spring if you're looking to quickly fill your outdoor space with blooms. As mentioned, hummingbirds are particularly attracted to tubular plants, and that's exactly what draws them to these blooms.

In a lovely lavender-blue color, they also have an aroma that’ll fill your yard with spring scents. They’re low-maintenance and enjoy bathing in full sun, meaning they can handle dry conditions and still grow in slightly poorer-quality soil.

Catmint will grow well in USDA planting zones 3-8.

3. Columbine

Columbine is a pretty tubular perennial, which is why it’s earned its nickname, granny’s bonnet. The multi-colored flowers bloom in spring, which ties in very nicely with the return of the hummingbirds.

It’s worth noting, though, that they prefer some partial shade to grow, rather than being placed in the full sun. And with so many colors to choose from, you can attract hummingbirds with blue, red, purple, yellow, pink, and white throughout spring, often in dual combinations,

Columbine is suitable for USDA planting zones 3-8.

4. Lungwort

Early to mid-spring bloomers, Lungwort is the perfect introductory plant to your yard if you’re trying to get the hummingbirds’ attention as early as possible. Blooming from March to May (and sometimes even late February), they can easily become a hummingbird’s first stop on their nectar hunt.

And it’s simple to attract them with Lungwort, not only for the nectar, but because of their bright colors, including some of hummingbirds’ favorites — pink, blue, and purple. They’re one of the rare shade-loving choices for hummingbirds, which means you may find you have more opportunity to spot them.

Lungwort generally thrives in USDA zones 3-8.

5. Salvia

If you’re looking for a plant that towers above the rest, Salvia is a great pick for giving hummingbirds a place to retrieve nectar at a calmer height. Vivid in color with tubular blooms, you’re probably starting to sense a pattern in what hummingbirds like.

They tolerate the hot weather well, which is great news as they’ll bloom in spring, and last well into the fall months. And there are lots of different varieties to choose from, which, fortunately, hummingbirds seem to enjoy.

Salvias prefer USDA zones 3-11.

6. Trumpet Honeysuckle

While Cape Honeysuckle is one of the plants that will attract hummingbirds to your yard in January, Trumpet Honeysuckle should be your spring pick. Why? Well, quite simply, that’s when they flower.

Potentially lasting up into fall, this vining plant is covered in red blooms that hummingbirds are attracted to. And an added bonus means you may also notice an influx of butterflies enjoying its flowers. But it’s worth noting it can have stems that reach up to 20 feet, so make sure you’ve got the space.

Trumpet Honeysuckle grows well in USDA zones 4-9.

7. Weigela

Rich in nectar and vibrant in color, weigela is a shrub that’s perfect for long beaks and long tongues to reach into. It’s a late-spring bloomer, so not one if you’re trying to attract the hummingbirds early.

But, they’ll often rebloom in the summer months, meaning you’ll keep those zippy little birds coming back for more. You’ll also want to make sure you’ve picked a sunny spot with well-draining soil to give your weigela a chance to thrive and bloom its tubular flowers.

Weigela thrives in USDA zones 4-8.

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Between all the yardwork I do — planting, raking, mowing, weeding, pruning, repairing planter boxes — my work gloves take a real beating. Normally, I go through a pair a year, because I typically buy the cheapest pair I can find at the checkout line at the hardware store. Sadly, I don’t take advice from our own guide on the best gardening gloves!

For the past few weeks, I’ve been testing out a new pair of gloves from Cross Point Gear, which promise greater durability, but also offer a lot of flexibility while also being waterproof and breathable. While they’re not cheap, they have held up very well.

Price and design

Cross Point Gear sent me a pair of its Sport Gloves; the company has two other lines, the Pro Wool and Boneshaker.

The Sport Gloves sell for $54, and come in five colors (black, gray, safety orange, neon green, and jungle) and five sizes (small, medium, large, XL and XXL). I went with the safety orange because far too often, I’ve taken off a pair of gloves in my yard and forgot where I left them, so the bright color makes them easier to spot.

The gloves are made of three layers: The exterior, which is 95% nylon, is water-resistant; a middle layer made of waterproof-breathable Artex, and an inner liner that’s 79% acrylic and 15% polyester.

They’re comfortable

The Sport Gloves fit me, well, like a glove. I opted for a large pair, and they fit snugly, but not too tightly around my hands and fingers. The palms of the gloves have black grippy nubs, which made it easier to hold on to tools and other objects, even when they were wet.

One of the toughest tasks I used them for was building a raised garden bed in an area of my yard that had been overgrown with English Ivy. Not only did the gloves give me a good grip when ripping out all the roots, but also offered me the dexterity I needed when holding my rake and shovel. They also let me comfortably hold a screw between my index finger and thumb as I drove it into some wood siding.

They’ve kept my hands warm and dry

In March, the weather where I live has ranged from unseasonably warm — temperatures in the 80s — to frigidly cold. While I’ve avoided working outdoors in freezing temperatures, I have been out when it’s been in the low- to mid-40s, so having a warm pair of work gloves has been essential. The gloves kept my hands at a comfortable temperature and, even on hotter days, my hands didn’t feel too sweaty, either.

I don’t have to take them off to use my phone

While I wouldn’t want to type out full emails while wearing the gloves, I was able to send short text messages, open apps, and use my iPhone pretty easily. So, I didn’t have to remove them from my hands to answer calls or take photos with my phone.

Fabric can get caught on sharp objects

The weave of the exterior of the glove is a bit stretchy — you can see the inner layer of the glove if you spread your thumb and index finger apart — so you have to be a bit careful when handling sharper objects. I learned this the hard way when I tried to unspool a roll of chicken wire. A prong got caught on one of the gloves, and pulled out a bit of thread.

If you’re planning to do stuff like this, or use the gloves to play with your cats, I might suggest something a little more heavy-duty, or ones with a smoother exterior, like leather.

Bottom line

At $54 a pair, the CrossPoint Waterproof Knit Gloves are a bit of an investment, but they seem to be holding up pretty well so far. You do have to be careful around pointy things, but otherwise, they could be a good addition to your outdoor toolkit.

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Nothing beats the flavor of fresh, homegrown tomatoes, especially when you can pick them straight off the vine and throw them into tasty salads and dishes. Not only is this organic option free from toxic chemicals, but it can also save you money on your grocery bills.

But while you can easily grow tomatoes from seeds or using pots, perhaps the biggest challenge for most gardeners is how to get the most out of your crop, and increase your yield for a bumper harvest.

While we often turn to fertilizers or follow viral tomato growing tips, I’ve just discovered this rather unusual hack that can help your crop thrive and give it a good boost. What’s more, this kitchen item is likely to be found in your pantry rather than in a gardening center. So why is molasses touted as the secret ingredient to your tomato plants' success?

The power of molasses

According to gardening experts, molasses can be effectively used as a do-it-yourself tomato fertilizer when mixed into the soil. Surprisingly, unsulfured black molasses contains all the micronutrients that plants need, such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and potassium.

This sweet, sticky substance feeds soil microbes, which, in turn, help your plants thrive by improving enzyme function and soil health over time. Good soil health, typically created by thriving microbes, is essential for plant growth as they can easily absorb nutrients. As a result, your tomatoes should see a healthy boost, and best of all, taste more flavorsome this season. Win-win!

How to use molasses on your tomato plants

There are several ways to use molasses on your tomato plants. If you prefer to drench the soil, simply mix one tablespoon of unsulfured blackstrap molasses into a gallon of water. Then pour onto the soil around the base of the tomato plant every 3-4 weeks.

Alternatively, you can create a plant spray by mixing one tablespoon of molasses with one liter of water before spraying directly onto leaves. Applying this, ideally in the early morning, will also aid in pest control.

So if you want to get more out of your tomato plants this year, try this top tip for a juicy harvest.

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I’ve always planted trees in my yard to create different heights from my shrubs and low-growing plants. Apart from the aesthetic and structural appeal, they can perform many functions, including being a nesting spot for birds.

However, a few good years back, I made a big mistake and planted an invasive eucalyptus tree at the back of my yard, and within a few years, it had taken over, absorbing all the nutrients my other plants craved.

The predator I swore I'd never plant again

I picked a eucalyptus tree for its evergreen leaves and attractive bark, but little did I know how tall it would grow. And without this knowledge, I didn’t cut it back, to keep it under control.

Before it completely took over my whole yard, draining the moisture and nutrients from my other plants and uprooting my shed, I called in a professional to chop down the tree and apply herbicides to the remaining stump to kill the root system.

The plant's foliage drew me back

Recently, I began to miss the delicate leaves on the eucalyptus tree, which I’d previously cut and used as decorative foliage around my home. I also missed the clean, crisp and invigorating scent that I found refreshing.

But I was not going to make the same mistake again and buy a new eucalyptus tree and plant it directly in my soil. If you’re vigilant and keep an eye on its growth (and have a big yard), you could grow a eucalyptus tree as long as you prune it before it takes over. But that's a lot of work.

Container gardening

I had a plan to grow another eucalyptus tree, but this time, instead of planting it in the ground, I decided to plant it in a container.

I’ve now planted my eucalyptus in a pot and have placed it near the back of my house, perfectly positioned within my sightline when I'm working. I can’t be sure how it will pan out, and I know I will have to move this fast-growing ornamental plant into a larger pot. But for now I’m enjoying the foliage and that I’ve got the chance to try again.

How to grow eucalyptus in a container

You don’t have to stick to growing a eucalyptus in the ground; it’s perfectly OK to grow one in a container, but it's best to choose your variety with care. According to Hard Eucalyptus, dwarf and medium-sized species are the best candidates.

Be selective
It recommends Eucalyptus gunnii ‘Azura’ for its slow growth and compact shape, which can be trained into a bush or standard. Eucalyptus gunnii ‘Silverana’ is similar, but with more silvery foliage. Another contender is Eucalyptus pulverulenta ‘Baby Blue Bouquet’, which is less vigorous than ‘Baby Blue’ and has smaller leaves.

Pot wisely
Once you’ve decided on your plant, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) suggests potting it up with a peat-free compost, such as John Innes No 2 or No 3, and advises adding horticultural grit to improve drainage, suggesting adding no more than 30% grit to the mix. For those in the U.S, the New York Botanical Garden suggests using a high-quality potting soil. But do ensure your container has drainage holes, otherwise the plant’s root system will stay too wet, and the plant will suffer.

Place your plant where it will thrive
Eucalyptus will do best placed in a full sun, and protected from winds, where it is easy to water. I’ve already noticed how quickly my plant is drying out, so for me, placing it in close sight of my house will ensure it won't get forgotten.

To stop it drying out, Hardy Eucalyptus recommends covering the top of the soil with pebbles or mulch. However, avoid overwatering, as you don’t want the roots to become waterlogged.

Give it a feed
To give your eucalyptus an extra boost, the RHS recommends giving it a monthly feed during its growing season, between April and September.

Longer-term maintenance
Even though you are growing Eucalyptus in a container it will still grow quickly and may need repotting into a larger container every year. To keep it trim, you’ll also need to get out your pruning shears and give it a tidy, or prune it into your desired shape.

You might also be interested in how you can you can also grow bamboo in a container and how it can be used to provide privacy in your yard.

However, unlike the eucalyptus, some plants, like peonies, do better in the ground and don't like their root system to be restricted.

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Growing tomatoes is one of the most accessible ways for people to produce their own food, making it a great choice for both experienced gardeners and amateur green thumbs. Not to mention that the vine is an attractive addition to the garden throughout its maturation – think of elegant green tendrils, the first blush of a newly formed fruit, the juiciness of a fully ripe tomato.

If you’re a fellow lover of tomatoes, then you’re probably wondering when you can get started on this year’s crop. Fortunately, the right time to plant could be sooner than you think.

Tips for growing tomatoes from seed

Before you put seeds in the soil, make sure you are well-versed in the tomato’s specific growing conditions. This will ensure that any plants will be suitably nourished and able to grow a bounty of tomatoes. A happy plant is a productive one!

“Growing your own tomatoes to enjoy in salads, soups, or canned sauces later in the year is a great way to incorporate fresh ingredients into your meals,” said Rebecca Sears, CMO & Resident Green Thumb at Ferry-Morse. “But like anything worthwhile, tomatoes require a bit of planning and patience.”

Broadly speaking, tomato plants prefer, warm temperatures, above 50 degrees F, and ideally settling in the 70–80 degrees F range during the day, plentiful direct sunlight, meaning 8+ hours per day when plants are mature, sufficient airflow between plants , and well-draining, fertile soil. Plus, don't forget that tomatoes require consistent watering, especially during the hotter months of the year.

“Proper watering is key to healthy tomatoes,” explained Halina Shamshur, resident botany expert at plant identification and care app Plantum. “Always use room-temperature water, since cold water can stress the plants and cause the leaves to yellow, darken, or even become deformed. It’s best to fill a container with water and let it sit for a day before use. During summer, water your plants once or twice a week – or more often in hot weather – after the topsoil has dried slightly. “

Of course, different varieties may have slightly different preferences when it comes to sunlight, soil type, and overall climate. The good news is that this means there is almost definitely a tomato variety that is well-suited to your specific environment! For best results, take the time to review your specific seed type and learn of any variations in care that your tomato plant may need.

Can I start planting in April?

The US is a large agricultural region that spans many different growing zones, so the right time and method to plant tomato seeds will vary between regions. However, as a general rule of thumb, April is a suitable time to get your seeds started – as long as your current climate meets a specific criteria.

“Understanding your local climate and planting timeline is key to helping tomatoes establish properly and produce a successful harvest,” said Sears. “It’s important to consider frost timing and your growing zone. Because tomatoes are sensitive to cold, they should only be planted outdoors after the last expected frost, when both air and soil temperatures are consistently warm.”

The last average frost date is the most important detail to keep in mind when determining your planting schedule. If young tomato plants are caught by a surprise frost, that could kill them before they have a chance to strengthen and mature. Remember, these are summer icons for a reason! Tomatoes thrive in the warmer conditions of June, July, and August.

Protect your seedlings by waiting until after the last frost date before planting outdoors. In many parts of the US, especially those with temperate climes, this will be in early April. If you are in a hotter, southern region, then it may have already occurred earlier in the year; colder, northern regions may need to wait until later in April.

Fortunately, even if you are in a more northern growing region, or are simply experiencing a colder spring than usual, you can still begin growing your tomato plants. You will just need to start them indoors, either in the home or in a greenhouse, to produce the desired warmer conditions.

“If in April the daytime temperature is around 50–59°F (10–15°C) and the night-time temperature drops to 37–39°F (3–4°C), there’s no need to rush to plant them outdoors,” advised Shamshur.

Tips and tricks for planting tomatoes

There’s nothing worse than being disappointed with a summer harvest, simply because you made a small error months before. Starting off on the right foot can make all the difference when it comes to an abundance of tomatoes later in the year. That’s one reason that, even if you live in warmer weather, many gardeners prefer to start tomato plants indoors because they have greater control over the growing environment.

To increase your chances of success, there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, how long does it take for your tomato variety to mature?

“Planting timing can also vary slightly depending on the tomato variety, with some types maturing faster or tolerating cooler conditions better than others,” states Sears. “Early Girl tomatoes, for example, mature in about 50-60 days, while Beefsteak tomatoes may take closer to 80-100 days.”

When deciding when to plant during the month of April, count backwards from when you’d like to begin harvesting your first crop. Some plants may need a head-start, while others may prefer a late-April planting.

Additionally, seeds started indoors will need to be hardened off before they’re transplanted outdoors. If you begin your tomato plants in an indoor environment, the shock of moving them outside can interrupt their growth. To minimize the disruption of the relocation, it is recommended to get the plants adjusted to the outdoor conditions by exposing them slowly over a two week period. This is known as “hardening.”

“Start by placing the seedlings outside for just an hour or two, then gradually increase the time by about an hour each day,” recommended Shamshur. “Choose a bright, sheltered spot protected from direct sunlight to prevent the leaves from getting sunburnt. On the day of planting, water the seedlings thoroughly so the soil ball stays intact when you remove them from their containers.”

Finally, consider the future size of your plants at full maturity. When you’re looking at a pile of seeds in your palm, it might be hard to envision a thriving tomato vine several feet tall.

But it’s important to carve out enough space at the beginning for when each plant reaches maturity. Make sure to space individual seedlings several inches apart to ensure sufficient airflow when they are larger. You will also want to have a supporting structure or trellis available for when the plants grow taller, so be sure there is sufficient room to accommodate that.

With any luck, you'll have a juicy, bountiful tomato crop for summer.

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April is a key month for getting your flower garden off to a strong start. As temperatures rise and the risk of hard frost begins to fade, soil conditions become much more suitable for sowing and planting a wide range of flowers. With longer days and more consistent warmth, seeds germinate faster and young plants establish more easily.

Planting flowers in April also gives you a head start on the growing season, helping to ensure vibrant color from late spring right through summer. Whether you’re filling borders, brightening containers, or creating a pollinator-friendly space, choosing the right flowers now can make a big difference to how your garden looks in the months ahead.

For best results, keep an eye on local weather conditions, protect young plants from unexpected cold snaps, and continue sowing in stages for a longer-lasting display. From fast-growing annuals to reliable perennials, here are seven of the best flowers to plant in April — and how to grow them successfully.

7 flowers to sow in April

1. Marigolds

Marigolds are bright, easy-to-grow annuals known for their bold orange and yellow blooms. They typically grow in compact, bushy mounds, making them ideal for edging borders and filling gaps in beds. April is a great time to sow marigolds, as they germinate quickly in warming soil and establish fast-growing plants that will flower throughout summer. Their strong scent is also known to help deter certain garden pests, making them a useful companion plant.

Best for US growing zones: 3–10

To plant: Sow seeds directly outdoors in well-draining soil in a sunny spot, covering lightly with soil. Keep the area moist while seeds germinate, which usually takes about a week. Once seedlings appear, thin them to allow space for growth.

2. Cosmos

Cosmos are tall, airy annual flowers with daisy-like blooms. Their feathery foliage and delicate flowers give them a light, almost cloud-like appearance in garden borders. Sowing cosmos in April allows them to establish early; they thrive in warm conditions and will continue blooming for months if properly maintained, from early summer onwards.

Best for US growing zones: 2–11

To plant: Sow seeds directly into prepared soil in a sunny position, spacing them about 12–18 inches apart as they will grow outwards. Cosmos prefer poor quality soil, so avoid over-fertilizing as this can lead to more foliage than flowers. Pinching out the growing tips early on can encourage bushier plants with more blooms, if you want to keep your cosmo compact.

3. Zinnias

Zinnias are popular annuals that produce vibrant blooms in a wide range of shades. Their upright growth and bold flower heads make them an ideal choice for adding strong blocks of color to your garden scheme. They also attract pollinators such as butterflies, adding extra life to your garden. Sow in April to give zinnias a strong start as temperatures rise, which will help them to establish quickly and flower reliably throughout summer.

Best for US growing zones: 3–10

To plant: Sow seeds into warm, well-draining soil in full sun, covering lightly. Space individual plants around 6–12 inches apart, depending on the variety; check your seed packet to know what’s best for your specific seeds. Water regularly but be careful to avoid overhead watering where possible, as zinnias can be prone to mildew – instead water directly onto the soil. Choosing disease-resistant varieties can help ensure healthier plants.

4. Sunflowers

Sunflowers are a beloved favorite, thanks to their strikingly tall size and distinctive golden flowers, which bring bold structure and color to any garden. The sun-like blooms can reach impressive sizes, especially in taller varieties, but you can also find dwarf species if you’re short on space. April is an ideal time to sow sunflower seeds, as the warming soil helps them germinate quickly; starting them now leads to strong plants that flower in mid to late summer.

Best for US growing zones: 2–11

To plant: Sow seeds about 1 inch deep in a sunny, sheltered spot; their height can leave them vulnerable to winds. Space them several inches apart to allow for their eventual height and spread. Water regularly and have a trellis or stake on hand to provide support for taller varieties as they grow. Be sure to protect young seedlings from birds and pests, as they can be particularly vulnerable at this stage.

5. Sweet peas

Sweet peas are climbing annuals loved for their fragrant, delicate flowers and romantic sprawl. They produce soft, pastel-colored blooms on slender stems that are ideal for cutting, so you can enjoy them in vases indoors as well as out on the vine. Their climbing habit makes them perfect for adding height to borders and trellises.vSowing sweet peas in April gives them time to establish as temperatures rise, producing blooms from late spring into early summer.

Best for US growing zones: 3–8

To plant: Sow seeds about 1 inch deep and provide support such as a trellis or netting as they grow. Soaking seeds overnight before planting can improve germination rates. Choose a sunny location with rich, well-draining soil for more abundant blooms. Regular picking of flowers will also encourage more blooms to take their place, which is a great way to extend the flowering season.

6. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are fast-growing annuals with vibrant flowers and rounded leaves. Not only are they easy to grow, but the entire plant is also edible, and a fun way to incorporate flowers into summer meals. They are ideal for supplemental April planting, as they germinate easily in warming soil and quickly spread to cover gaps in borders or containers. Their trailing or bushy growth also helps suppress weeds.

Best for US growing zones: 3–10

To plant: Since they are so low maintenance, you can sow seeds wherever you want them to grow, about 1 inch deep into well-draining soil. Nasturtiums prefer poorer soil conditions, so avoid overfeeding with fertilizer. Water regularly while they establish, but once mature, you can pull back a bit, and they’ll stay healthy.

7. Cornflowers

Cornflowers are known for their vivid blue, pink, or white blooms that add a natural, meadow-like feel to garden borders. Their upright stems and delicate, fringed petals make them especially attractive in cottage-style planting schemes. Not only are they loved by gardeners but they also attract pollinators, helping to support bees and other beneficial insects in your garden. Planting cornflowers in April allows them to establish quickly in the cooler spring conditions, leading to earlier blooms and a longer flowering season.

Best for US growing zones: 2–11

To plant: Sow seeds directly into well-drained soil in a sunny spot, covering lightly. Thin seedlings after they emerge to around 6–12 inches apart, to give plants room to grow. As with nasturtiums, water regularly while they establish but then reduce frequency once they mature. Deadheading spent flowers will encourage more blooms, and they also make excellent cut flowers for indoor arrangements.

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I'm all about finding easy ways to garden, like reusing tin cans to create plant pots or scattering mixed seeds to create a 'chaos garden', so when I heard about the 'chop and drop' method, I just had to give it a try.

But, what does it mean? 'Chop and drop' is as simple as it sounds. You chop (or cut) the dead plants around your backyard and let them drop where they stand, leaving them to become a natural, free fertilizer creating nutrient-rich mulch for new growth to flourish.

It may sound messy, and it is, but it'll save you a lot of time when you're in the garden. Here's how it works.

How does the 'chop and drop' method work?

The 'chop and drop' method encourages you to chop your plants and let them drop to the ground. What it doesn't want you to do is head over to your compost heap or yard waste bin and discard of them there. Cutting out this part of your gardening chores will save you a lot of time.

As TikTok user, Grower Of All Things aka @detriarochelle, demonstrates to her over 150k followers, the 'chop and drop' method is what she has used to make clearing our her vegetable garden super quick and easy. Not only that, she's creating an excellent space ready for her vegetables to grow again. The same method would work for flowers, if that's what suits you.

By letting the plants fall to the ground, they become a fertilizer that's completely free, creating food for your soil that you'd otherwise have to pay for. Detria also explains: "Leaving the roots intact feeds the soil underneath the surface and then the dead plant material on top of the surface will break down and feed the soil further resulting in rich, nutrient-dense soil that'll be great for the garden."

She adds that if anything is diseased, you should get rid of it. If not, just let it fall to the ground where it is.

How it went

Inspired by all the posts I'd seen across social media, I headed into my garden ready to embrace the 'chop and drop' method. And there's a few things I can takeaway from giving it a try.

I headed to a patch of soil where I grow a variety of flowers that needed reviving and instead of doing what I usually do when deadheading and placing all the dead flowers into a basket ready to take over to my compost bin, I just let them drop to the ground.

At first, this felt very unnatural and I was mildly concerned about how messy it would look. But, I also knew that we were about to have a fair amount of rain and that moisture would help the dead flowers decompose and work their way into the soil – and it did.

For a brief amount of time, it also did look pretty messy, but I was determined to stick with it. It's still a waiting game I'm playing to see how the flowers will grow up out of the soil that's been left behind. But, the mess has quickly disappeared and I feel pretty positive about what it's provided to my soil. I'm looking forward to seeing the results!

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Spring is here, and as we all take in deep breathes of fresh air and absorb some lovely sunshine on our skin, it's the perfect time to spruce up your backyard or any outdoor space you have. After all, spring really is the best opportunity to shake off the cobwebs and get ready to start hosting guests.

But, while our yards have been somewhat neglected over the winter months, given they don't need much maintenance work in the cold weather, it's time to get back out there and tackle any mess.

And there's a few simple things you might've been doing that make your backyard look really messy (and I'm certainly guilty), but there's also some really easy ways to fix it. Here's what you need to get rid of and what you should avoid doing if you want your guests (and you) to enjoy your outdoor space.

5 things that make your yard look messy

I'm a sucker for a spot of spring cleaning and by a spot, I mean I clear out my entire house. All of a sudden, the sunlight shows me where the dust has been landing. And then my attention turns to my backyard and I start to notice things I've done that make it look messy. Here's five things I've spotted and how to fix them:

1. Overgrown shrubs and plants

As spring begins to breathe abundant life back into your shrubs and plants, you'll quickly notice that they can get a little out of control. Pruning them back to the shape you desire and taking care of any old plants that have died over the winter months is a great first step in making your garden look a lot less messy.

But, Garden Project Academy, advises: "Don't go on a plant-removing spreed too fast. I recommend identifying the plants you have and learning a bit about them, first."

While it might not fit in with the aesthetic of the tidy garden you're looking for, it's worth assessing what the plants are before totally removing them from your garden. A trim and prune will at least tidy them up though.

2. Clutter

When you're not using your yard as much over the winter, it can easily become cluttered with unused, broken, or displaced items. There'll certainly be obvious items of clutter to remove from your yard or place back where they belong. Then, you'll want to focus on the pots.

Over the winter months, plants may have died and now appear cluttered. Empty out the plants that are no longer thriving and replace them with intention.

But, it's important to reiterate what you'll hear a lot of gardeners saying: "Leave the leaves." Leaves aren't clutter and they can actually be really great for fertilizing, becoming free mulch, or creating a lovely ecosystem for your garden critters to live in.

3. Neglected areas

It can be really easy to neglect your patio area or a quiet corner of your backyard when you're focused on trimming the bushes and keeping the grass even, but don't sleep on creating a space to relax in.

And, fortunately, it really can be as simple as repurposing things you already have in your yard. Design with intention, set up a Pinterest board, reposition furniture and plant pots, and even create your own plant pots with tin cans (really).

When you create a cohesive look throughout your backyard, it'll all look a lot less messy and a lot more like you've shown your backyard some real love.

4. Plastic garden furniture

Now, there's nothing wrong with saving money on garden furniture, but what you might want to avoid is plastic garden furniture and that's because it degrades easily over time, especially when living outside. There's a risk of easy wear-and-tear, as well as staining and fading in the sun over time.

Fortunately, there's a cheap kitchen staple that'll bring your garden furniture back to life or you might want to think about reinvesting in a more durable material like rattan, teak wood or powder-coated aluminium.

5. Messy edges

This one's totally down to preference as you may like a messier look, but a lot of people suggest neatening your edges is a great way to clean up your messy yard.

Garden Project Academy explains: "A crisp, clean, and visually defined edge is a landscaping superpower – it creates an almost instant sense of order, intention, and polish. Even a chaotic garden bed can look intentional if the lawn edge is neat or the pathway is very defined."

And to create a definition between the edge of your lawn and the edge of your flower beds, they recommend using a flat shovel as well as using shears to trim down the grass for an even neater look.

You might also be interested in Forget power washing: budget-friendly hacks to get your backyard sparkling this spring.

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