As those golden summer nights give way to fall's crisp chill, your tomato plants are likely nearing the end of their peak season.

While your vines may still be heavy with fruit, the clock is ticking on warm weather, and it’s time to wind down your tomato patch and put your garden to bed for the season.

How you care for your fruit and plants now will make all the difference in getting a juicy late-season crop and healthy soil to set your patch up for next year.

1. Harvest your fruits before the first frost

To avoid wasting your harvest, Danielle Sherwood, managing editor and master gardener at Epic Gardening, recommends picking your fruits before the first frost warning. She says, “As long as they are not completely green and hard, they will ripen indoors.”

So, how do you ripen green tomatoes? Sherwood advises placing your unripe tomatoes in a single layer in a cardboard box, and adds, “Check them every few days and toss any that go soft.”

While Andy Thewlis, farm manager at The Inn at Little Washington, has another method similar to Sherwood’s, but instead of placing them in a cardboard box, he uses a paper bag and stores them at a temperature between 70-75°F.

Ethylene can also speed up ripening, so adding fruits like ripe bananas, apples and avocados, which release a lot of the gas, can help your tomatoes blush!

Top tip
If you want to rescue the hard, truly immature ones, Sherwood suggests trying fried green tomatoes or salsa verde.

What about seed collection?
You can go further by saving seeds, but Sherwood says check your variety first. “You can save seeds from heirloom or open-pollinated varieties, but hybrids won’t turn out like the parent plant and need to be repurchased if you want the same type.”

2. What to do with your tomato plant: Pull up or prune?

You might be wondering whether you should pull up your tomato plant or prune it at the end of the season. Thewlis puts it simply: “Remove the top, preserve the bottom,” but what does that mean?

He starts by cutting the stem above the soil surface. “Use the serrated edge of a soil knife to carve out the bottom three inches of the submerged stem, and allow the residual root structure to remain."

And he adds, “Over time, these roots decompose, leaving behind underground channels for air, water, and earthworms to travel.”

After you cut the plant, if the top is healthy and disease-free, you can add this section to your compost.

3. Spot check your plant for disease

Don’t forget to check your plants for disease symptoms or pest infestations. “If left unchecked, the disease (and pests) can overwinter in the soil, coming back to plague your plants next year,” explains Sherwood.

Wilting, discoloration, fuzzy growth and dark spots, are all signs of disease. If your plant looks unhealthy, she says pull the whole plant up, including the roots.

4. What’s the best way to dispose of tomato plants?

If your tomato plants look healthy and show no signs of pest infestation or disease, Sherwood recommends adding them to your compost. “Chop them up first if you want to speed up the breakdown process,” but she adds, “If the plant is unhealthy, bag it and put it in the trash.”

5. Give your soil a treat?

After working hard to grow and support these delicious fruits, and fertilizing your tomatoes at the right time, your soil deserves some care once the growing season is over.

Thewlis says, “Tomatoes have a voracious appetite,” and that “Abundant fertilization is essential for your subsequent crop’s success.”

Therefore, replenishing your soil's fertility with minerals is an essential task for tomato growers. He recommends choosing an organic fertilizer designed specifically for the nutritional needs of your next planting.

Sherwood also adds that applying compost to your soil can act as an insulating blanket over winter, while the nutrients are slowly absorbed.

However, if you prefer to keep your beds active, she says, “Trying planting a cover crop, which also acts as a green mulch to protect the soil and suppress new weed growth. In the spring, you can chop and drop the plants before planting new crops.”

What is a cover crop?
Cover crops protect the soil’s surface and can also provide your soil with rest, nutrition, and aeration. You typically plant them in fall and winter, after summer crops have finished. There are four types of cover crops: grasses (such as ryegrass and barley), legumes (such as alfalfa or clover), brassicas (such as radishes or turnips), and non-legume broadleaves (such as spinach or flax).

Over to you
How did your tomato patch fair this season? Did you enjoy a bumper crop or have a bit of a battle with the elements? Drop a comment below and let me know — and tell me your favorite way to enjoy them, whether that’s sliced fresh with a sprinkle of salt or cooked into a delicious sauce!

More from Tom's Guide

• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• Why your tomatoes aren’t turning red — and the simple pruning fix gardeners miss
• 3 expert-approved tasks you must do in October to get your yard ready for fall

Stepping outside after seeding a lawn only to find a flock of hungry birds treating the fresh seed as their dinner is a frustrating sight, and one that I am all too familiar with.

I’ve recently aerated and scarified my lawn to prepare it for overseeding, hoping for a lush lawn by spring. But now that all my hard work is complete, the birds have flocked in to spoil it.

So I called on Jonathan Davies, a grass expert at Lawnsmith, to find out what I can do to stop the birds from eating my freshly sown grass seed.

Why birds eat grass seed

Before trying to scare the birds off, it helps to understand why they do it. Davis explains they are more of a problem at this time of year than most people expect. “As we move deeper into fall and closer to winter, other natural food sources become scarce, and freshly sown grass seed is easy pickings,” he says.

So, are any particular birds more of a problem? Davis says ground-feeding seed eaters, like pigeons, sparrows and some finches, enjoy a good munch. He explains, “A couple of small birds won’t do much harm, but a few resident pigeons can wipe out a seedbed.”

I’ve noticed in my yard that the smaller birds don’t take the lawn seed, but the larger pigeons can’t seem to get enough.

How to protect grass seed: 3 barrier methods to try

There are numerous ways to protect your grass seed from birds, but Davis recommends one approach above all others.

“The most reliable method is to cover the seed with polythene sheeting. It’s my number one tip, and the best way to protect grass seed,” he says.

What's more, polythene is cheap, easy to get hold of, and keeps birds off completely. "Lay it over the seeded area straight after sowing and raking in, and weigh down the edges with bricks or stones so it can’t blow off," he advises.

However, when using polythene sheeting to protect your grass seed, he recommends checking underneath it regularly. "Polythene doesn’t let air through like fleece does, so once the seed has germinated, take it off promptly so the new grass doesn’t get too hot or yellow under the sheet.”

Although not his top method, Davis says garden fleece comes a close second. “It’s very effective, it warms the soil to speed up germination, and it lets rain through.”

However, he adds, “You’ll still need to water if it doesn’t rain, as moisture evaporates out.”

Another alternative is fine mesh netting, which Davis describes as the kind you use over fruit bushes. But if you choose this method, he advises, “It needs to be supported off the ground or the birds will get underneath it, and the cost and the set-up can be a hassle.”

No cover required: 2 alternative approaches

It may not be possible or practical to cover a newly sown lawn, especially if the patch is large. In this situation, Davis suggests being more generous when sowing grass seed, and he advises to sow half as much seed again. “Half is for the birds, and the rest is for your new lawn," he says.

“It’s quick and inexpensive, and if the birds leave it alone, you simply get a thicker lawn sooner,” he adds.

Another solution is to provide an alternative food source, such as sunflower seeds, bird food for ground feeders, rice or sultanas. “Grass seed isn’t very appetizing, so they’ll often go for these first,” he says.

And he adds, “This matters more now that natural food is running short. Bird feeders aren’t much use, as the ground-feeding birds that eat your seed take too long to find them.”

Don't bother with...

I’ve been using strips of aluminum foil to scare the birds off my grass seed, but Davis advises against it. “I wouldn’t spend much time or money on bird scarers like windmills, balloons or streamers, as birds soon get used to them.”

He also advises against using bird-repellent seed; besides being unreliable, he says it’s expensive and offers a limited choice of grasses.

Another method to avoid is covering your grass with straw or mulch to protect the seeds, saying “it can cause endless problems and it isn’t worth the effort.”

Can fertilizing your lawn help?

As an indirect method, fertilizing your lawn can help reduce the risk of the birds destroying your efforts. “The less time the seed spends sitting on the surface, the less chance the birds have of finding it, so anything that gets it germinating and growing quicker works in your favor,” says Davis.

A fertilizer high in phosphorus is crucial to root development. He says to apply it before sowing and work it into the top layer of soil, or wait until the seed has germinated and then feed the young grass to support its growth.

However, he adds, “It isn’t a substitute for covering the seed or giving the birds an alternative food source, because even quick-start seed takes around four days to germinate in ideal conditions. But combined with those methods, it gives your lawn a head start.”

• Gardening experts reveal how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best
• When should you winterize your sprinklers — and how to do it right
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month

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Fall weather may be upon us, but that doesn’t mean our lawncare duties should go into hibernation just yet. In fact, now is the time to tend to our lawns and ensure they’re in good shape come spring.

And if you’ve noticed that your once lush lawn is looking patchy, soggy, or generally in bad condition, it could point to compacted soil. Essentially, this is when pressure or certain weight squeezes soil particles together. This thick layer blocks any water, essential nutrients, or air from getting into the roots — affecting healthy growth.

But how do you know? And more importantly, what can you do to repair it? To help solve this dilemma, I asked the garden experts to share the key signs of compacted soil, how to test for it, and the best ways to fix it this fall.

1. Water sits on your lawn

Puddles or standing water on your lawn clearly indicate compacted soil underneath. This is because tightly packed ground prevents proper drainage, which can lead to waterlogging, patchy spots, and root disease.

“One of the clearest signs is water sitting on the surface after rain,” states Chris Bonnett, the founder of GardeningExpress.

“If puddles take a long time to drain, it could indicate that compacted soil is preventing water from soaking into the ground properly.

The first step to fix this is to aerate the soil (making holes) to allow it to breathe. Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators.

Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the lawn is badly compacted, a hollow-tine aerator, which removes small plugs of soil and removes the pressure from the soil, may be more effective,” advises Alex Dobson, garden and outdoor space expert at Charles & Ivy.

“For smaller gardens, use a garden fork to make holes across the affected areas, gently rocking it backwards and forwards to open up the soil.”

Just avoid aerating when the ground is very wet or frozen, as this could make waterlogging worse. If in doubt, check out these expert tips on aerating a wet lawn.

2. The ground feels hard

As well as the ground feeling squishy to walk on, you might also encounter a hardened surface. This is especially during the colder fall months.

“You may also notice that the ground feels unusually hard, grass growth has become thin, or moss and algae are appearing in persistently damp areas,” adds Bonnett.

So how do I check for this? Luckily, there is a simple way to check for compaction before you aerate. “A simple way to check is to push a screwdriver or garden fork into the soil when it is slightly moist. If it is difficult to penetrate the ground, particularly in areas where people regularly walk, compaction could be the issue.”

“Fall is a good time to do this, as long as the ground isn’t waterlogged. You can also overseed bare patches to encourage fresh growth. Try to avoid walking on the lawn when it’s wet too, as this can make compaction worse.”

3. The grass is thin or patchy

Another clear warning sign is when your once-lush lawn starts to turn sparse and patchy. When soil becomes heavily compacted, grass roots are starved of essential air and water, making it nearly impossible for your lawn to thrive.

One way to fix this is to overseed your lawn. But before sprinkling more grass seed or lawn feed, you’ll need to check and deal with compacted soil first.

“For lawns with bare patches, overseeding can help the grass fill in once the soil has been improved and conditions are suitable for new growth,” advises Dobson. “If water continues to collect in the same spots, you may also need to look at the garden's drainage rather than relying on aeration alone”.

“Once you've aerated the lawn, try to avoid repeatedly walking over the same areas, particularly when the ground is wet. You can also add stepping stones to the lawn to help prevent the soil from becoming compacted again.”

So if you’ve spotted any of these warning signs on your lawn, the key thing is to loosen the soil and reduce pressure on the grass. Once these issues are fixed immediately, you’ll have lush and healthy grass all year round.

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

After a scorching summer heatwave and drought left my lawn bare and patchy, I knew it needed serious fall maintenance. I’ve already reseeded the damage, but with winter fast approaching, the big question is whether the grass seed and tender new growth can survive the first frost.

As temperatures drop, you can’t ignore the inevitable; it won’t be that long until you draw back your curtains to find a white, frosty lawn. The exact date of the first freeze depends on your location, but getting your reseeding done early if crucial if you want your new seed to survive.

Can grass seed handle frost?

Whether your newly seeded lawn can survive a frost depends on two things. If the seed has not germinated the frost won’t kill it. Instead it will go dormant in the soil, and it should survive, then germinate once the temperatures warm up.

But it’s another issue if the seed has already germinated and started to sprout. At this point it doesn’t have the strength and root system to store energy to help it survive a cold blast.

What is the ideal time to plant grass seed?

If you’re sowing grass seed this fall, give it at least six weeks before the first frost so the roots have time to establish. If you don’t already know the first frost date in your area, you can enter your ZIP code in The Old Farmer’s Almanac Frost Calculator. This should tell you whether you’ve left it too late to sow grass seed, or if you still have a 6-week window to get your seed sown.

Can you protect your grass seed from frost?

The best scenario is to sow your seed in good time before the first frost is expected in your area, or if you’ve missed this window, wait until the weather gets warmer in the spring.

However, if you’ve already sown your lawn seed and you expect a frost before it’s had time to establish and have the strength to fight the frost, there are ways you can protect it.

1. Lay light polythene sheeting or garden fleece over the seeded area. This will trap in ground heat and stop the freezing air from penetrating. But, you'll need to weigh down the edges to stop it blowing away in the wind.

2. Give your lawn a deep watering late at night before a cold snap will also help the soil retain heat, more so than if the soil is dry.

3. Avoid treading on your reseeded lawn once the frost hits. The blades are brittle and can snap, killing the plant.

4. Add a thin layer of topsoil can help insulate the seed and give it a better chance of survival.

Over to you
Let me know if you have any questions about reseeding your lawn in fall; you can pop them in the comments section below.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardening experts reveal how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best
• When should you winterize your sprinklers — and how to do it right
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month

As the mowing season winds down and temperatures start to plunge, packing away your lawnmower is usually the final task on the fall yard work checklist. However, simply wheeling your mower into the shed or garage with a half-full tank of gasoline is a costly mistake.

Stagnant, untreated gas is the single biggest cause of small-engine failure, leading to gummed-up carburetors, rusted fuel lines, and an expensive repair bill — or a completely dead engine when spring rolls around.

Before you store your equipment for the cold months ahead, here is why untreated fuel ruins your mower during seasonal storage, and the simple one-step solution that keeps your engine protected.

1. Why gas goes bad

Most gasoline purchased at the pump contains up to 10 percent ethanol, which works fine when you are burning through a tank every week. The problem arises when that ethanol-blended fuel sits idle in a lawn mower tank for more than 30 days.

Ethanol is hygroscopic, aggressively drawing moisture from the air into the fuel, a process accelerated by temperature fluctuations that cause tank condensation.

Over a few weeks, this trapped water triggers "phase separation," causing a heavy, acidic water-ethanol mixture to sink to the tank's bottom where the carburetor line feeds.

This slurry corrodes metal, destroys rubber seals, and leaves a gummy varnish that clogs the carburetor's microscopic jets. Because of this, next spring the engine will refuse to combust, even with a perfect spark, or it will stall immediately.

2. Stabilize or drain the gas tank

To keep your mower's fuel system pristine over the off-season, you have two choices: treat a full tank with a high-quality fuel stabilizer, or drain the fuel system completely.

If you choose to store it empty, remove any remaining or stale gas from your lawn mower's tank. The safest and cleanest way to do this is by using a manual hand pump. These inexpensive siphons come in various hose lengths and diameters to suit your setup, allowing you to easily transfer fuel into a safe storage container.

If you aren't comfortable siphoning fuel lines or draining the system, adding a fuel stabilizer is the easiest, most reliable method. Fuel stabilizer contains antioxidants and anti-corrosive additives that bond with gasoline molecules, preventing phase separation and stopping fuel oxidation.

To do it correctly, pour the recommended dose of stabilizer into a fresh can of gas, or directly into your mower's tank, and top it off so the tank is roughly 95 percent full.

Leaving a full tank leaves minimal airspace for condensation to form inside the walls.

Once added, run the mower engine for five to ten minutes. This step is critical: running the engine ensures the treated fuel circulates through the entire system, filling the carburetor bowl and fuel lines with stabilized gas.

3. Maintenance steps to finish your mower prep

Once the fuel system is stabilized and protected, spend five extra minutes completing two final winterization steps to ensure your mower starts on the very first pull next spring.

First, disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any accidental starting, tilt the mower up with the air filter pointing upward, and scrape away all caked-on grass clippings and mud from the underside of the deck.

Damp, trapped grass holds moisture against the metal deck all winter long, causing heavy rust and structural corrosion.

Then remove the mower blade and sharpen or balance it now so it is ready for the first spring cut, or simply wipe down the blade with a thin coat of WD-40 or mineral oil to ward off surface rust while stored in a damp shed or garage.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 essential lawnmower tips to help keep it running like new
• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring
• How to sharpen a lawnmower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

Whether you go all-out crazy with your pumpkin carving or take a more serene approach to your displays, you still end up with the same problem after Halloween. What do you do with your leftover pumpkins?

It isn't just the outer shell you need to think about — you also have to decide whether to trash the guts after carving your jack-o’-lanterns or put them to good use.

Here, garden expert Craig Wilson, co-founder of Gardeners Dream, shares how to give your pumpkin a second life once you've closed your front door on the last trick-or-treater.

1. Turn your pumpkin into a bird feeder

Once Halloween is over, Wilson suggests putting it to good use in your garden. “Hollow out a fresh pumpkin, remove any leftover decorations and fill it with suitable bird-friendly food to create a simple homemade feeder.”

While you’re scooping out the contents, he also says to save the pumpkin seeds. Let them dry thoroughly before using them in a homemade bird food mix.

“It's a lovely way to make the most of your Halloween pumpkin while giving garden birds a little extra help as the weather gets colder. Just remember to keep an eye on it and remove it before it starts to go moldy,” he adds.

Having a bird feeder is one of the best ways to encourage birds into your yard.

Beyond keeping birds fed in winter, you'll get to watch them swoop in for a meal.

2. Turn your pumpkin into a planter

If your Halloween pumpkin is still intact and in good condition, Wilson recommends turning it into a seasonal planter. “Rather than planting directly into the pumpkin, place small pots of fall plants inside it to create a simple display for your doorstep, patio or garden,” he says.

To get the most out of your plants, Wilson recommends choosing specimens that will suit the conditions where you plan to display them. And he adds, “Remember that a pumpkin won't last forever once Halloween has passed. Keep an eye out for soft spots or signs of rot, and remove it when it begins to deteriorate.”

3. Create a garden light

If you want to make your pumpkin go a little further this Halloween, why not use it to add some autumnal charm to your garden? “An uncarved pumpkin can make a lovely holder for outdoor LED lights or seasonal decorations, bringing a cozy glow to your patio, porch or garden seating area,” says Wilson.

It's a simple way to stretch its use beyond Halloween — and works just as well with carved jack-o’-lanterns. Once it’s served its decorative purpose, Wilson says, as long as it’s still in good condition, you can toss it straight onto your compost heap.

4. Save the seeds for next year

One of the best parts of a pumpkin is the seeds, and aside from drying them out and adding them to your homemade bird feed, you can keep them to plant next year. However, Wilson advises using only seeds from a healthy pumpkin with no obvious signs of damage or rot.

How to save the seeds
Saving pumpkin seeds for sowing isn't difficult. Wilson says, “Scoop out the seeds when you are carving the pumpkin, separate them from the pulp and give them a good clean before allowing them to dry thoroughly. Once they're completely dry, store them somewhere cool and dry, ready for next year’s growing season.”

Remember that the pumpkin you grow from saved seeds might not look exactly like the one you carved. “Pumpkins, squash and gourds can cross-pollinate, so you might get something a little different next time,” he adds.

Apart from looking forward to a surprise, saving seeds is a fun and easy way of turning this year's Halloween pumpkin into a gardening project for next year, and a great activity to do with young children.

5. Put your leftover pumpkin on the compost heap

Once Halloween is over, don’t throw your pumpkin away too quickly; it can get a second life on your compost heap. However, before tossing it on the pile, Wilson reminds you to remove any candles, holders, paint or decorations before cutting the pumpkin into small pieces.

He explains, “As the pumpkin decomposes, it will add organic matter to your compost. Once that compost is ready, you can put it back to work around the garden, helping to improve the soil and give your plants a boost.”

What to avoid
Wilson adds that while you might be tempted to bury your pumpkin whole in your flowerbeds, he says it can take time to break down and will likely attract unwanted pests. “Chopping it up and composting it properly is a more practical way to put those leftovers to use.”

More from Tom's Guide

• 3 pests that your Halloween pumpkins can attract to your home
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As fall leaves begin to carpet the lawn, tackling your gutters early seems like a proactive way to check a major chore off your seasonal home maintenance list. However, clearing your downspouts too soon in the season could be a costly waste of time that almost guarantees you will have to haul out the ladder a second time before winter sets in.

Timing your fall gutter prep requires a delicate balance between letting the canopy clear and protecting your home's foundation from heavy rains. Here is why jumping the gun on gutter cleaning backfires — and the exact window to do it right.

Why cleaning your gutters too early in fall backfires

The temptation to clear gutters during the first crisp weekend of fall is understandable, but sweeping them while trees are still shedding is an exercise in futility.

When you scoop out leaves while the surrounding canopy is only partially bare, the very next fall breeze or rainstorm will dump a fresh layer of dry foliage, twigs, and oak tassels straight into your clean troughs. Within a week, those newly cleared channels fill right back up.

Worse still, early fall leaves are often dry and lightweight. Rather than packing tightly at the bottom of the trough, they float freely into the top of downspouts, creating quick, stubborn jams at the elbows that trap subsequent rainfall.

Wait too long, however, and wet, freezing leaves turn into a heavy, sludge-like paste that weighs down your fascia boards and pulls the gutters away from your roofline.

The golden rule for timing your fall gutter clean

To avoid climbing the ladder twice, follow the 80 percent rule: wait until roughly 80% of the surrounding trees have shed their leaves before doing your primary fall clear-out.

Unless your gutters are already overflowing and causing immediate drainage issues, the ideal window for most regions lands between late October and mid-November — right after the first hard freeze forces deciduous trees like maples, oaks, and birches to drop their remaining foliage.

If you live in an area surrounded predominantly by pine or oak trees, your timeline shifts slightly:

• Deciduous trees (Maples, Elms, Ashes): Wait until late fall after a hard frost when the branches are mostly bare.
• Late-dropping oaks: Oak trees retain their leaves much longer into the season, often dropping them in late November or early December. Wait for the final canopy drop so you aren't caught off guard.
• Pine and needle trees: Pines shed needles continuously in early fall; sweep them right before the first anticipated snowfall to prevent frozen ice dams

How to check for hidden downspout blockages before winter

Once you hit the right fall window, a quick scoop of the main troughs isn't enough to safeguard your home against winter water damage. A single hidden clog in the downspout can cause freezing water to back up under your shingles, leading to costly roof leaks and damaged foundations.

To ensure your system is completely clear, follow this simple 3-step inspection.

After removing loose debris from the horizontal troughs, place a running garden hose directly into the top of each downspout. Watch the bottom outlet to confirm water flows out freely at full pressure.

If water backs up at the top, the clog is trapped in the curved elbow. Tap the side of the metal downspout gently with a rubber mallet to dislodge packed debris, or feed a plumber's snake down the pipe to break up the blockage.

Make sure your downspout extensions funnel water at least 3 to 5 feet away from your home's foundation to prevent pooling and basement seepage during winter thaws.

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• Stop buying filler seed: What chickadees actually need to survive a cold snap
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Fall is in full swing, making it the perfect time to give your home a seasonal refresh. Whether you’re making the most of the crisp, comfortable days outdoors or giving your interiors a fresh new look, now’s the time to get started.

Case in point: Home Depot is hosting a massive fall sale with up to 50% off. For those looking to cozy up their outdoor spaces, there's plenty of deals to shop on patio furniture, fire pits, outdoor lights and more. If you're looking to give the inside of your home a refresh, you'll find great furniture and accent pieces available at a discount.

Plus, with spooky season almost here, Home Depot's Halloween shop is open for business with deals starting at $19. Keep scrolling to see all my favorite affordable picks that I'd shop for my own home this fall. Plus, check out our guide to the best Home Depot promo codes.

Quick Links

• Home Depot grill sale: deals from $99
• Halloween decorations: deals from $19
• Home decor sale: up to 40% off
• Smart device sale: up to 50% off
• Bathroom upgrades: up to 40% off
• Fire pits: up to 30% off
• Appliance sale: up to 35% off

Quick Links (Other Retailers)

• T-Mobile: iPhone 18 Pro for free w/ unlimited
• YETI: deals from $17 @ Amazon
• Amazon: up to 50% off Sony, Blink, Apple
• Skechers: deals from $16 @ Amazon
• REI: 50% off Arc'teryx, Patagonia, more @ REI
• Birkenstocks: from $28 @ Nordstrom
• Ninja: appliances from $69 @ Amazon
• Nectar mattresses: up to 50% off @ Nectar

Editor's Choice

Halloween Decor

Home Decor Deals

Patio Furniture Deals

Few shrubs bring as much joy to the garden as hydrangeas. With their blousy, oversized blooms and lush foliage, they provide incredible color from early summer straight through to the crisp days of fall.

But as those vibrant flowerheads dry into muted papery tones, it is natural to want to give your bushes a tidy haircut before winter sets in. Before you reach for your pruning shears, however, step back.

Cutting back hydrangeas in October is one of the most common fall gardening mistakes. Before you touch those shears, here is why leaving your hydrangeas alone this month guarantees better blooms next spring.

Why you should never prune hydrangeas in October

Faded hydrangea blooms might look unsightly, but those dry, papery flowerheads act as a built-in umbrella. They shelter vulnerable young stems and developing buds from harsh frosts, biting winds, and even snow.

Trimming stems in October can also trigger a burst of tender new growth right when the plant should be entering winter dormancy. When the first hard freeze hits, those soft shoots will freeze and die, leaving the shrub weak and susceptible to disease.

Even worse, popular varieties like mophead, lacecap, and oakleaf hydrangeas set their buds on "old wood" during late summer. Cutting those stems back now removes next year's flower buds entirely, guaranteeing a barren bush come summer.

How to treat different hydrangea types in fall

Knowing which variety you grow is key to avoiding accidental damage, as pruning rules depend entirely on how the plant flowers.

Don't forget the roots

While dried flower heads look beautiful in the winter frost, they won't protect your plant's root system. To shelter the roots below from harsh winter freezes, apply a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant this fall.

Simple fall care steps that set up next spring’s blooms

Instead of reaching for the shears, focus your October routine on protecting the root system before the ground freezes solid. Start by skipping fertilizer altogether. Late-season nitrogen forces soft growth that cannot survive winter cold. Ease off on watering as temperatures drop too, keeping the soil lightly moist without letting it become waterlogged.

Next, safeguard the root zone with a two- to three-inch blanket of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, leaf mold, or compost. This insulates roots against freeze-thaw cycles and locks in moisture against dry winter winds — just keep the mulch an inch away from the main stems to prevent rot.

And if you grow hydrangeas in pots, move them into an unheated garage, shed, or sheltered patio corner before the first hard freeze, watering sparingly once a month to keep the roots from drying out completely.

More from Tom's Guide

• Drooping hydrangeas? Try these 5 tricks to perk them up fast
• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
• 5 reasons your indoor hydrangea wilts in winter — and how to fix each one

The right footwear is essential this time of year. If you don't want to get cold feet, make sure to grab a pair of Uggs in Amazon's latest sale.

You'll find discounts on everything from the classic Ugg boot to super-comfy sneakers and slippers to enjoy fall and winter to the max this year. One of my favorite deals right now is the Elea Slip-On on sale from $81. The fuzzy lining on those slippers is just calling my name.

Note: prices vary by your choice of size and color. Check out any different color options available in your size to find the best deals.

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• shop all Ugg deals at Amazon
• Lezly Slipper (Women's): was $64 now from $25
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With fall in full swing, now is the perfect time to give your home a little refresh. Fortunately, Walmart has everything you need for the new season. The retailer is currently hosting a sale with up to 50% off home decor, furniture, appliances and more.

If you still need to do some Halloween shopping, you can take advantage of festive decor deals from $1. Gearing up for football season? You can currently shop smart TVs starting from just $59. Need a new air purifier for allergy season? And if allergy season has you searching for cleaner air, the Alrocket Air Purifier is currently 50% off.

I've done the heavy lifting and rounded up tons of Walmart must-haves for fall. Here are all the affordable finds worth shopping now.

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• shop all Walmart deals
• Fall home decor: deals from $9 @ Walmart
• Halloween decor: deals from $2
• Patio and garden event: up to 50% off
• Skechers: deals from $30
• 4K TVs: deals from $59
• Grill sale: deals under $100
• Shark and Ninja appliances: up to 40% off

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Patio & Garden Deals Under $50

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Fall is here, and it’s already taken its toll on my once-lush, green grass. But before the weather turns too chilly, October provides the perfect opportunity to repair damaged lawns and prepare them for the winter months ahead.

And one essential task is to aerate your lawn to prevent waterlogging and ensure key nutrients reach the soil. However, with constant drizzles and damp conditions expected throughout the fall season, is it okay to aerate a wet lawn?

I asked a lawn care expert to find out and get their top tips.

Can I aerate a wet lawn?

Generally, you can aerate a slightly damp lawn but not when it’s saturated with heavy rain — so it’s important to distinguish between the two.

“A simple rule is that damp is fine, soggy isn’t — if water is standing on the surface or the tines come out coated in sticky mud, wait a few days,” states Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith.

“Spring and fall are the best times to aerate partly because the soil is moist, which makes it easier to get the tines in, and showers can soak straight into the freshly aerated soil. What you don’t want is soil that’s so wet it smears. Then you’re not opening up the soil; you’re sealing it, and you still want air reaching the roots.”

Top tips for aerating a damp lawn

What's the best way to aerate a damp lawn in fall? While there are several ways to aerate your lawn, it’s important to choose the right tool in fall.

Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators. Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the ground is on the damp side, solid-tine spiking is the gentlest approach, and you can do it any time from March to November, but avoid very wet soil that smears,” advises Davis.

You’ll also need to know the right time to aerate your lawn and best practices. “Fall, from the end of September to mid-November, is ideal as the weather is getting wetter rather than drier,” suggests Davis. “If you’re using a hollow tine aerator, mow the lawn close beforehand as it makes the cores much easier to deal with.

“Cores should be left to dry in place. Then go over them with the mower with the box off, if the instructions allow. It puts the soil and nutrients back into the lawn and helps break down thatch. If you can’t do that, rake them up with the back of a flat rake, use them as top dressing, or add them to the compost heap.

Finally, finish with a good soak on compacted areas. After spiking or hollow tining a heavily compacted patch, run the sprinkler for 30 minutes, then leave it off for a day or two.

Also, look for telltale signs your lawn needs aerating, including patchy, yellow grass or water sitting on the surface after rainfall.

When not to aerate a wet lawn

Besides knowing when it's the right time to aerate wet soil, you should also know when to avoid it. This includes before incoming frost, which can freeze the aeration holes and harm the lawn.

“Don’t aerate very wet soil that smears, and don’t do it if frost is imminent because freezing soon after hollow tining will make the lawn heave up,” adds Davis.

“Don’t leave the cores on the lawn to disappear, as they won’t break down fully and you’ll end up with a bumpy surface. Finally, don’t expect aeration to fix everything. If your lawn is 20 years old or more and badly compacted, you may need to dig it over to at least 15cm and start again.”

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

Fall is the perfect time to plan a camping getaway — temperatures are still mild, the air is crisp and the foliage is stunning. But before you pack up and hit the trails, your camping gear might be due for a little refresh. The good news? We’ve got just the brand to help you gear up for the season: Coleman!

Coleman is a go-to brand for outdoor enthusiasts and luckily, Amazon is currently knocking up to 40% off Coleman camping gear for fall. Whether it’s a weekend getaway at the campground or a backcountry adventure, you can shop cozy sleeping bags, outdoor cooking essentials, tents, coolers and more starting at just $17.

We don't know how long this rare Coleman sale will last, so I recommend happy campers and outdoor enthusiasts hop on these unbeatable Coleman deals ASAP. Keep scrolling to check out my favorite picks.

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• Coleman LED Flashlight: was $19 now $17
• Coleman Big-N-Tall Quad Chair: was $69 now $54
• Coleman Sundome Camping Tent: was $117 now $85
• Coleman 316 Series Insulated Portable Cooler: was $124 now $96
• Coleman Camping Cot (Twin): was $229 now $171
• Coleman 3-Burner Propane Camping Stove: was $259 now $194

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Fall has arrived, but cooler temperatures don’t mean you should put away your garden tools just yet. You still have essential tasks to complete to prepare your yard for the winter ahead. And just when you thought it was time to pack away your lawn mower until spring, you may want to think again.

According to a lawn expert, gardeners need to continue mowing through October — because mild fall temperatures allow grass to keep growing.

Not only can this simple task promote a healthy, green lawn, but long grass can actually do more harm than good.

“Long grass holds on to moisture, especially with the damp mornings and heavy dew we get in fall,” says Jonathan Davis, a lawn expert at Lawnsmith.

“That creates the perfect conditions for fungal diseases like red thread and fusarium patch to take hold. Once they get a grip, they can leave your lawn looking patchy and sorry for itself by spring.”

What’s more, moss is one of the most common lawn weeds, known as a ‘silent grass killer’, that appears in the form of green, sponge-like patches between the blades of grass.

“Moss loves damp, shady spots, and at this time of year there's plenty of both. If your grass is long and thick, the light can't reach the base of it, meaning your lawn will struggle.”

So if you want to get your lawn in top shape for spring, here are some top tips for mowing your lawn in October.

How to cut your lawn in fall

Avoid cutting your grass too short; the ‘golden rule’ is to never trim more than a third of its height. This is because mowing too close to the ground exposes the lawn to root diseases and encourages weed growth.

“Never cut more than a third off the height of the grass in one go,” he said. “Think of grass like an iceberg: a fifth above ground and four fifths below,” adds Davis.

“Take too much off, and you reduce the roots, leaving the plant weak and more vulnerable to disease and weeds.”

In any case, if you are battling weeds, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

In addition, Davis advises gradually changing your mower's height for a couple of cuts before making the final adjustment. And don't lower the blades if the grass is very long, as it'll put strain on the mower. Ideally, cut on your current setting first, then go lower a day or two later.

Also, it’s best to get the timing right — choose a dry afternoon for mowing and avoid cutting when the grass is wet or frosty. “Wait for a dry spell and go over it when growth slows right down. A little effort now means a much healthier, greener lawn when spring comes round.”

When is the final cut of the year?

So when is it finally time to put away your lawn mower this season? Experts agree that around mid-November, you should leave the grass at around 5cm.

“That's the sweet spot for winter,” adds Davis. “It's long enough to protect the roots from frost and keep the crown healthy, but short enough that it won't become a soggy, matted mess over the colder months.”

So before you put your mower to rest, give your grass that essential trim this October, and your lawn will thank you for it come spring.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

It’s not quite time to discard your best gardening gloves. While spring has traditionally been the main gardening season, you can still add more color to your yard in fall — before the frost sets in.

With warm early-fall temperatures and consistent rainfall, your new plants can establish deep, healthy root systems long before the next growing season, and they’ll get a head start without worrying about summer drought.

Enjoy the magic of fall

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, says that while fall is traditionally associated with the final harvest and putting your garden to bed, savvy gardeners know it is actually one of the most magical seasons of the year.

Richard King, an expert at Dino Decking, agrees, adding that with the right plant choices, you can add instant color and interest now and create a garden that looks good through the dark winter months.

“Fall is often treated as the end of the gardening year, when in reality it’s one of the best times to start preparing for the seasons ahead. The mistake many people make is waiting until spring to think about color and planting, when there are plenty of plants that can transform a garden through the darker months,” says King.

Although summer is officially over, you don’t have to give up on color. Here are three plants to brighten up your fall garden.

1. Chrysanthemums — there’s still time to enjoy flowers

As summer bedding fades, King suggests planting chrysanthemums for a final burst of color in your yard.

Available in a wide range of colors, they extend a garden display well into fall. Apart from being enjoyed outside, King says, “Chrysanthemums make an excellent cut flower, meaning their impact doesn’t have to stop at the back door."

Top tip
Keep plants watered while they establish and regularly remove faded flowers to encourage a longer-lasting display.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9

2. Japanese maple — don't forget about height and structure

My absolute favorite fall plant is my Japanese maple (Acer palmatum). It’s an exceptional small tree that doesn’t take over my yard, but still adds height and structure. And with its dark red leaves, it adds a splash of color and keeps my yard lively in the cooler months.

Palphram also agrees that Japanese maples have a place in fall gardens, and beyond deep red, they offer a range of autumnal colors. “As the days shorten, acers put on an unforgettable show with fiery crimson, deep oranges, and golden yellows,” he says.

Top tip
According to Maple Ridge Nursery, red Japanese Maples typically handle more sun than their green counterparts, so check what’s the best position before you plant. They also prefer well-drained, consistently moist soil, and one that’s slightly acidic.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-8

3. Carex 'Evergreen' — choose grasses for a low-maintenance option

Carex Evergold has distinctive gold-and-green variegated ribbon-like leaves that can brighten borders, containers and any dull corner.

"As an evergreen grass, it continues to provide foliage interest through the colder months, making it a useful choice for gardeners who want color and structure without relying solely on flowers," explains King.

Top tip:
While most ornamental grasses thrive in sun, Palphramand explains that varieties like Carex prefer shade and moist, well-managed soil. King also advises planting in a spot with good drainage and trimming away tired or damaged foliage in late winter to encourage fresh growth.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9

Why fall is a great time to enjoy grasses

Whether you are planning a minimalist urban courtyard, a modern prairie-style planting scheme, or a soft texture for a country cottage garden, grasses cover it all.

Ornamental grasses add a distinct layer of luxury, rustling in the breeze and catching the golden fall sunlight. Palphramand adds that they create an effortless, high-end aesthetic, a sensational structure in rich bronze, copper, and amber tones, while being incredibly resilient.

Over to you
Have you put your gardening gloves away for the year, or will you be planting in the fall? Let me know in the comments below.

More from Tom's Guide

• The fall lawn care mistake you’re probably making — and the secret to a greener lawn next spring
• 3 expert-approved tasks you must do in October to get your yard ready for fall
• 3 essential fall jobs to protect young trees before the first cold snap

Just because fall has arrived doesn’t mean we have to neglect our outdoor spaces. With the right updates, you can make the most of your backyard, patio or garden well into the cooler months. Thankfully, Amazon’s latest sale makes it easier than ever to do just that.

From gardening essentials and cozy fire pits to festive Halloween decor and stylish patio furniture, the retailer is offering major discounts on everything you need to enjoy your outdoor space for as long as possible. Even better? These outdoor deals start at just $17.

If you're looking to make the most of your outdoor spaces this fall, keep scrolling to check out my favorite patio and garden deals to shop on Amazon.

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• Halloween Shop: up to 50% off
• Posable Plastic Skeleton Halloween Decor: was $19 now $17
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Planted grass seed and waiting for those first green shoots to show up can feel like watching paint dry. While most lawn seed takes between 7 and 14 days to germinate, full establishment takes several weeks, and certain stubborn varieties can sit in the soil for up to a month before popping up.

If you want to shorten that waiting window and avoid ending up with patchy, uneven soil, the key is managing soil prep, moisture, and ground warmth right from day one.

The germination rule of thumb: how long will you wait?

Your waiting time depends almost entirely on whether you are planting a fast-sprouting cool-season blend or a slower warm-season grass.

The fast sprouters (5 to 10 days): Perennial Ryegrass is the sprinter of lawn care. If you need rapid coverage for bare patches or high-traffic areas, this is your best option.

The steady performers (7 to 14 days): Tall Fescue and Bermudagrass generally show green shoots within a week to ten days under warm, moist conditions.

The medium growers (14 to 21 days): Zoysia and Centipede grasses take two to three weeks to get going.

The slow-and-steady varieties (14 to 30 days): Kentucky Bluegrass and Buffalograss require some patience. They spend weeks building underground root systems before sending up visible blades.

Which grass seed should you sow in fall?

As we move through fall soil temperatures are dropping, making this the best season to sow cool-season grasses. Varieties like Perennial Ryegrass, Tall Fescue, and Kentucky Bluegrass thrive in cooler weather. They germinate best in soil temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C).

Sowing them in autumn gives their roots two full seasons of cool, moist weather to establish deep anchor systems before the heat of next summer hits. Just remember to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before your region's first expected hard frost.

Steer completely clear of warm-season seeds like Bermuda grass during fall. Bermuda grass requires warm soil temperatures between 65°F and 90°F (18°C to 32°C) to germinate and grow. Planting Bermuda grass in fall means the ground will turn too cold before the shoots can establish strong roots, causing the seeds to fail or die off during winter frosts.

3 ways to make grass seed sprout faster

If you want to cut down germination time and ensure every seed takes root, follow this 3-step routine.

More from Tom's Guide

• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring
• 3 essential fall jobs to protect young trees before the first cold snap
• Stop spring lawn weeds before they sprout with a simple fall pre-emergent barrier — applying it now saves you hours of yard work next year

I’ve got plenty of trees in my yard, and right now I’m enjoying watching the wind carry the leaves to the ground. But despite creating a bright gold-and-russet spectacle across my lawn, I’m worried that as they pile up, they’ll damage the grass and keep it from performing well in the spring.

While I usually get out my garden rake to clear them and use them in my beds and borders to stop weeds, I’m wondering what to do with the pile that remains, and what benefits raking and mowing leaves provide. For expert advice, I asked Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, whether raking or mowing the leaves is best.

Raking leaves

Davis explains that raking leaves removes them completely, which he says matters because “a layer of leaves can smother grass and kill it in just a few weeks.”

He adds, “Leaves also reduce the grass’s vigor, which lets moss take over, and they can encourage lawn disease and attract worms.”

Once raked, he recommends adding them to your borders as a mulch or into your compost heap. Alternatively, if you have the space, he says, “Stack them in a corner or in a bin bag with a few holes in it and leave them for a year or two to make leaf mold, which is an excellent soil improver.”

Should you rake wet leaves?

It’s best if you wait for the leaves to dry out before raking. “Dry leaves are light and lift easily off the grass. Wet leaves mat together into a heavy, slippery layer that’s hard work to rake, and they stick to the lawn,” says Davis.

But as leaves prevent light and air from reaching your lawn, left in place they do more harm. In this scenario he advises, “If the weather is wet for days, don’t wait for perfect conditions. Clear them as best you can, because wet leaves sitting on the grass are worse than damp raking.”

How often should you rake leaves?

Raking up leaves should be a weekly task in the fall. “Leaves can smother grass and kill it in just a few weeks, so the longer they sit, the more damage you risk.”

In a heavy fall, or if the weather’s wet and the leaves are matting down, Davis recommends going over the lawn more often. “Little and often is far easier than waiting until the tree is bare and facing a thick, soggy layer,” he adds.

What’s the best way to rake leaves?

I find raking leaves can feel like a gym workout — only with worse weather. To save energy and finish the job efficiently, start with the right tools and technique.

LawnStarter suggests using a wide plastic rake for dry leaves, and a metal rake with a spring joint for damp leaves. You may also find it useful to have a tarp handy to place the leaves on, which you can easily move when you’re finished.

When you're ready to start, work from the outer edges toward the center to create a single pile and keep leaves from blowing back over cleared areas. If you’re tackling a large yard, break it down into manageable sections. Finally, always rake with the wind — fighting a gusty breeze only doubles your effort.

Mowing leaves

Raking leaves might be best if you have a small patch, but if you have a large lawn, mowing fallen leaves will save time and energy and provide organic fertilizer.

And if your leaves are dry, Davis advises mowing over them rather than raking. But he warns, “They’ll look a bit unsightly for a few days, but chopped leaves are smaller, meaning they break down faster and add useful organics to the lawn.”

Why it’s easier to mow dry leaves

Rather than making the job harder than it needs to, Davis suggests avoiding mowing wet leaves. “Dry leaves shred cleanly and scatter back into the lawn. Wet leaves clump, clog the mower and leave soggy patches on the grass, so they’re best left until the lawn and leaves have dried out.”

Did you know?

Just as a robot lawnmower takes a fine shaving off your lawn and the cuttings act as mulch, the same process works when you mow your leaves. Rather than removing them and bagging them up, they can be left to work their way into the soil. Just make sure they haven’t smothered the grass.

Do you need to adjust the mower blade?

Rather than keeping the mower blade at the height you use for your normal cut, Davis recommends raising it.

“For the first pass, raise the blade a notch or two above your normal setting, which helps the mower pick up and chop the leaves without scalping the grass. Then go over it again at your usual autumn height, roughly 1.5 to 5 inches for most lawns,” he advises.

Although he warns against cutting the grass too short at this time of year, as it weakens the root system and reduces winter stamina.

Do you need special equipment to mow leaves?

When it comes to mowing the leaves on your lawn, Davis says you don’t need any special equipment. “A rotary mower is fine, but mulching mowers do a better job as they double-cut the leaves.”

He adds that many modern rotary mowers have a mulching attachment, which is worth using, though it isn’t as effective as a full-time mulching machine.

Aside from your mower, he says, “You may also find a leaf blower or rake is handy for gathering leaves from awkward spots or into rows before you mow.”

Should you remove the mower bag?

Davis advises that whether you remove the mower bag when mowing depends on your goal. “To mulch them back into the lawn, take the bag or box off and mow with the mulching setting or a rear-discharge setting if the manufacturer allows it.

However, if the leaf cover is heavy or you’d prefer a tidy lawn, he suggests leaving the bag on so the mower collects the shredded leaves. He says, “They make a good addition to the compost heap, and shredded leaves rot down much faster than whole ones.”

How often should you mow leaves?

Just like when raking leaves, Davis recommends mowing the leaves little and often. He says, “Aim for once a week during leaf fall, so the covering stays light and the shredded pieces can work down into the lawn rather than building up in a thick layer. If you can still see the grass through the chopped leaves, you’ve got it right.”

Raking or mowing — what will you do?

I prefer to mow over the leaves rather than rake them. Smaller pieces break down more easily, and leaf mold is less likely to develop. I can then leave some to break down on my lawn and move the rest to use as mulch in my beds. Either way, it's better than bagging your leaves and sending them to landfill.

I’d be interested to know what you plan to do with the fallen leaves that are covering your lawn. Let me know in the comments below.

And while you're sorting out your lawn, you might also be interested in Don’t wait until spring: 3 plants to give your yard an instant fall vibe.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardening experts reveal how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best
• When should you winterize your sprinklers — and how to do it right
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month

As you head into fall and winter, your yard changes shape, and you need to adapt your garden care, too.

One of the biggest changes is caring for your lawn properly in the fall to set it up for lush spring growth. But one mistake could undo the good work you’ve done during the warmer seasons.

It may seem like a small change, but adjusting your lawn mower height makes a big difference. Instead of keeping your mower blade high, as recommended in spring and summer, the fall trick is to lower it slightly.

But before you head out into your yard to adjust your mower, this fall rule doesn’t apply to all turf.

Warm-season and cool-season rules

You only need to lower the blade if you have warm-season grass, like Bermuda, Zoysia and St. Augustine. Warm-season grasses go dormant as the weather cools, and gradually lowering the cut before dormancy begins helps reduce thatch build-up, weeds and diseases, such as snow mold.

However, if you have cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, you don’t need to follow this rule. Instead of going dormant, cool-season grasses are actively growing, and keeping the blades taller encourages root development, helping the turf store energy for winter to set it up for spring.

Don't scalp your grass

But if you have warm-season grass and plan to give your lawn a good cut, be careful. Don’t get carried away by cutting the blade height too low. Your lawn won’t appreciate a close shave. It weakens the root system and reduces the energy stored over winter.

While your lawn can overcome a close cut in the summer, it’s not the same in the fall, and it will take longer to recover. Lawn care experts advise not going lower than around 1.5 to 2 inches.

Keep to the one-third rule

Even if your grass appears to be having a growth spurt in the fall and needs a good mow, don’t be tempted to go beyond the one-third rule. Avoid removing more than one-third of the grass blade in a single cut.

Just like scalping the grass, being too aggressive can make it harder for the grass to recover, especially as it nears dormancy.

Lawncare essentials we love

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• Why is my grass seed not growing? Lawn expert explains why and how to avoid it this fall
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month
• How to sharpen a lawn mower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

Walmart's October sale — known as Deals & More — ends soon! It's your last chance to score some discounts, so make sure not to miss out.

Right now Walmart has TVs on sale from $68. You can also find cozy fall decor, appliances and fashion starting from just $6. Plus, there are dozens of Lego sets on sale from just $9, including Lego Star Wars, Botanicals and even Pokémon.

Keep scrolling to see all my favorite Walmart deals! I also recommend checking out our Walmart promo codes page to learn about more ways to save.

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Fall is official here, and it’s already taken its toll on my previously lush and green grass. But, before things get too chilly, October is the ideal time to repair your damaged lawn and prepare for the colder months ahead.

And if, like me, you’ve tackled this by scattering grass seed on those sparse or bare patches, it can be a little disheartening when you haven’t seen any growth sprouting through at all.

That's why I called on a lawn care expert to find out why my grass isn't growing, common mistakes to avoid, and top tips on how to fix it.

Check the weather forecast

According to experts, now is the time to do those all-important lawn repairs. But the process just takes a bit more preparation than expected, and results will naturally depend on weather conditions and technique.

“Thriving spring lawns are built in fall. Thanks to a shift in weather patterns, soil temperatures are staying warmer for longer,” says Chris McIlroy, a lawn expert at The Grass People.

“If temperatures start to stay consistently below 46.4 °F to 50.0 °F, then the window for sowing is closing, so do keep an eye on the forecast. You need a two-week window where the temperatures are above this.”

In addition, be sure to check your soil temperature using a soil thermometer before seeding. Typically, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass need soil temperatures below 65°F, while warm-season varieties like Bermuda grass need at least 65°F.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

Protect it from hungry birds

If you enjoy feeding or watching birds in your yard, these feathered visitors might be another reason your grass seed isn't growing.

“Birds can see freshly laid grass seed as an easy-access buffet, especially at this time of year when other food resources are starting to dwindle,” explains McIlroy. “So they’re taking your seed before it even has a chance to germinate."

So what can we do to prevent our hungry birds from swiping our freshly-laid grass seed?

"Shiny objects like tin foil and old CDs can deter birds from your garden, as the way they reflect light confuses them," adds McIlroy.

"Or you can also cover the seeds with tarp or netting, but make sure it’s not blocking too much light or water from the seeds.”

Not sowing deep enough

Another common mistake is failing to plant seeds at the right depth or in suitable growing conditions. “Seeds should be roughly the depth of three stacked coins to ensure the right seed-to-soil contact for germination, advises McIlroy.

“It keeps seeds protected and warm, and provides the nutrients they need to grow. If the elements have left your seeds exposed, try adding a light layer of topsoil to give seedlings that extra support.”

In addition, you need to ensure you water your seeds properly, but don’t oversaturate them. If seeds are waterlogged or sitting in a pool of water, they won't survive. “Seeds also need to be hydrated but not waterlogged. If they’re left too dry, the seeds will die off, so keep an eye on soil moisture levels".

“Fixing drainage by aerating your lawn is a key step for success, ensuring water has somewhere to go when it rains. Similarly, if your lawn is bumpy, this creates areas for water to pool.”

Other tips include feeding your lawn with a starter fertilizer, which can help grass establish faster with stronger roots. Or simply have some patience, and let nature take its course.

"Sometimes seeds just need a little more time; depending on the conditions, germination can take up to 14 days, and noticeable grass growth even longer."

Check out our expert-approved tips on how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

You might also be interested in the fall lawn care mistake you’re probably making —and the secret to a greener lawn next spring.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
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Now that we’re settling into fall, it’s the perfect time for a little home refresh. Whether you’re making the most of the last few weeks of temperate weather outdoors or getting a head start on refreshing your interiors, you’ve come to the right place.

Home Depot is hosting a massive sale to welcome in the season. For those looking to cozy up their outdoor spaces, there's plenty of deals to shop on patio furniture, fire pits, outdoor lights and more. If you're looking to give the inside of your home a refresh, you'll find great furniture and accent pieces available at a discount.

Plus, Halloween is now just a few weeks away — which means it's time to start planning out your spooky season decor. Luckily, Home Depot's Halloween shop is open for business with deals starting at $19.

Keep scrolling to see all my favorite affordable picks that I'd shop for my own home this fall. Plus, check out our guide to the best Home Depot promo codes.

Quick Links

• Home Depot grill sale: deals from $99
• Halloween decorations: deals from $19
• Home decor sale: up to 40% off
• Smart device sale: up to 50% off
• Bathroom upgrades: up to 40% off
• Fire pits: up to 30% off
• Appliance sale: up to 35% off

Quick Links (Other Retailers)

• T-Mobile: iPhone 18 Pro for free w/ unlimited
• YETI: deals from $17 @ Amazon
• Amazon: up to 50% off Sony, Blink, Apple
• Skechers: deals from $16 @ Amazon
• REI: 50% off Arc'teryx, Patagonia, more @ REI
• Birkenstocks: from $28 @ Nordstrom
• Ninja: appliances from $69 @ Amazon
• Nectar mattresses: up to 50% off @ Nectar

Editor's Choice

Halloween Decor

Patio Furniture

Indoor Furniture Deals

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It's a great time of year to roll out your lawn aerator and get to work. Bringing air into the lawn soil will not only help relieve any pressure and compaction that's happened over the year, but it'll also improve airflow, water absorption and your lawn's overall ability to access nutrients to help it grow.

It's not something you need to do too often, but it's a step you don't really want to miss if your lawn is heavily compacted or struggling to drain water (especially with all the rain).

Only after you put in all that effort to push your lawn aerator across your lawn, you might be left wondering if you've done a good enough job. It's certainly something I've contemplated as I stare at my own lawn, unsure whether I've made any real difference.

I've asked the experts for their professional advice on how often you should aerate your lawn, how many passes are enough, and other tips and tricks to get the best results.

When to aerate your lawn

Soil compaction is the ultimate telltale sign that your lawn needs aerating, but how exactly do you figure out if that's what's going on beneath the soil?

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, says: "Homeowners should consider aeration if they're seeing standing water after rain, hard-packed soil, thinning grass, or areas that get a lot of traffic.

"A good rule of thumb is the screwdriver test: if it's hard to push a screwdriver into the soil, compaction is probably preventing healthy root growth."

And once you've figured out that your lawn needs aerating, you also have to consider if it's a good time to do it.

"Timing is everything when it comes to aeration. The best time to aerate your lawn depends on the grass type you have," explains Chris Ramos, PR & Events Coordinator at Blain's Farm & Fleet

When it comes to cool-season grasses like Fescue and Bluegrass, early fall or spring are ideal times, as these grasses grow most vigorously during colder months.

And if you've got warm-season grasses like Bermuda or Zoysia, then late spring to early summer is optimal, coinciding with their peak growing season.

Though Koenig adds: "However, once the ground freezes or the grass has gone fully dormant, it's best to hold off on aggressive projects like aerating, heavy raking, or major repairs."

Once you've figured out the best time though, Ramos reveals you only really need to aerate your lawn once a year.

How many passes should you make with your lawn aerator

So, you're planning to aerate your lawn, but how many passes should you be making to get the best results?

According to Ramos, one or two passes should relieve soil compaction. In addition, choosing the right tool in the first place will have a major impact on how effective your lawn aeration is.

"There are two types of aerators. Spike Aerators: These tools create holes by pushing spikes into the soil," adds Ramos. "They're simple to use but might not be as effective on highly compacted soil.

"Plug Aerators: These remove small plugs of soil from your lawn, providing more lasting benefits by reducing compaction more effectively. They're generally the preferred option for most lawns."

Additional top tips

Lawn aeration alone isn't all you should be doing. As Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Technical Operations and Agronomy at TruGreen explains: "One of the biggest misconceptions in the industry is viewing aeration as a standalone service.

"The greatest results occur when aeration is intergrated into a comprehensive turf management program that includes proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation, and overseeding practices."

In fact, he suggests that if you're really looking for best practice when aerating your lawn, you should be "overseeding and fertilizing immediately after aerating to maximize growth.

It's also important to leave the soil cores on your lawn after aerating, as they will naturally break down and help recycle nutrients and other beneficial microorganisms."

So, while you can do an excellent job with your lawn aeration, timing it right and carrying out one or two passes until you're satisfied that you've relieved compaction, it's important to take the opportunity to do more for your lawn when it's at its most receptive.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to aerate a lawn and when to do it
• I asked gardening experts the secret to a greener lawn — here's what they want you to do
• 9 signs your lawn needs aerating

The weekend is upon us and Sunday night marks the end of Walmart Deal Days. That means you have just a few days left to shop home decor deals for the new season.

As part of its sales event, Walmart is currently offering up to 50% off select outdoor items. Below I've rounded up my top 9 deals for your home starting from just $9. From hanging bird feeders to a rake for picking up leaves, here are the top home decor deals I recommend.

Quick Links

• shop all Walmart deals
• Fall outdoor decor: deals from $9
• Patio and garden event: up to 50% off
• Self-Watering Plant Pots 5-Pack: was $28 now $16
• BN-LINK Solar Lights Outdoor: was $29 now $19
• Remiawy Rake for Leaves: was $38 now $21
• Tabletop Fire Pit: was $49 now $24

Patio & Home Deals

No one ever likes the thought of rats roaming their yard or property. And as temperatures drop this fall, rodents are actively searching for food and shelter—making your yard a prime target if left unprepared.

That’s why it’s crucial to ensure you don’t make your home inviting for such pests by removing the things in your yard that attract rats and mice to your space. The last thing you want is an infestation.

However, even if you maintain a clean and tidy yard, you could be missing one overlooked item. If you (or your neighbor) have fruit trees, you could be unknowingly inviting rats to feast in your yard.

Here’s why a pest expert urges homeowners to clear fallen fruit right now — and a few other top tips to be mindful of, too.

Clear fallen fruit often

Fruit-picking season might be over, but there could be a late crop that is still ripening or falling on the ground. And if left to pile up under the tree or lying around on your lawn, this is an open invitation for rats to feast on.

“Gardens can provide plenty of easy food sources, especially when fallen fruit is left lying around,” states Chris Bonnett, horticulturist and founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk.

“Fallen apples, pears, plums and other fruit can provide an easy source of food for rats, particularly when it is left on the ground to become overripe. Check underneath fruit trees regularly and collect fallen produce before it has a chance to build up.”

To prevent an infestation, be sure to clear fallen fruit from your yard frequently and either discard it or throw it in your compost bin — where you can repurpose it in your garden all year.

“A quick tidy-up every few days can make a big difference. Clear away fallen fruit, keep bird food contained, and make sure bins are properly secured to avoid giving rats any easy reasons to stick around.”

Top tips

Rats are relentless opportunists when it comes to food, and even tiny scraps of bird seed or pet food can quickly transform your yard into a rodent buffet.

“Bird feeders can unintentionally provide food for rats,” adds Bonnett. “Try to position them where spilled seed is less likely to build up, and give the area underneath a regular sweep. Avoid putting lots of food directly on the ground, as this can make it an easy target for rats.”

Other top tips include securing trash cans and maintaining your yard. Overgrown grass and weeds offer ideal hiding spots for rats, so keeping your lawn trimmed and pathways clear makes your outdoor space far less inviting.

“Keeping grass cut, weeds under control, and areas around sheds and paths clear can make your garden less appealing to them.”

So if you don’t want to invite rats for a backyard feast, be sure to clear that fallen fruit right now.

For more top tips, check out how to rat-proof your yard.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 tips to keep your deck looking great all summer
• 7 hacks to stop birds from pooping on your patio
• 7 plants that keep mice and rats from invading your home

Last October, I set up on my front lawn what I thought were two of the more ridiculous Halloween decorations: the 12-foot Home Depot Skelly and Lowe’s 20-foot inflatable skeleton. They were an instant hit with the kids, and in the end, Lowe’s won out, as it was easier to set up, and was simply more ridiculous for its size.

This year, both Lowe’s and Home Depot came out with animatronic oversized skeletons; Home Depot’s 12-foot version has a head that turns and a jaw that moves; you can even program custom phrases via a smartphone app. Lowe’s 15-foot skeleton — called the Watcher — holds its head above its body, rotates back and forth, beams lights out of its eyes, and also has a speaker with a bunch of spooky phrases.

Naturally, I wanted to see how these two teched-up decorations compared. The neighborhood children also couldn’t wait. Neither are cheap; Home Depot’s skeleton costs $379, while Lowe’s model is $429, yet as of this writing, both are selling out fast.

Storage and setup

The first thing to note is that while neither are small, the Lowe’s skeleton comes in a box about two-thirds the size of Home Depot’s — the latter measures 40 x 44 x 27 inches — something to consider if you have limited storage space.

Assembling Lowe’s skeleton was a more involved affair; the internal frame is made up of metal hoops running up each leg and the torso, which gives the skeleton its shape. Each hoop is held in place with cotter pins, and each part of the frame is secured with thumb screws. Suffice it to say, there’s a lot of really small pieces that could be easy to lose.

And, you also have to "dress" the skeleton with its gigantic overalls. I don't know that a farmer's getup is the outfit that's most going to instill fear in the hearts of trick-or-treaters, but here we are.

As you’re putting the whole thing together, you also have to attach a series of electrical connectors inside the body; they snap together easily enough, but there are more than a few of them. It took me a good hour or so to piece everything together. It’s also held in place by four guy strings, to keep it from toppling over.

Home Depot’s Skelly instructions are pretty much the same as its non-smart version. It’s a metal frame with plastic pieces covering it, and far fewer pieces than the Lowes model. The only real difference are the few wires that connect from its pelvis, up the spine, and to the head. Maybe it was my familiarity from last year’s model, or the fact that there are not as many parts, but assembly went much faster. I was done in about half an hour.

I assembled both skeletons myself, and while it’s not advisable, it’s doable. The trickiest part is lifting the whole thing in the air. There was a moment or two with each that I thought it would topple right over.

Animatronics