Now that the heatwave is over and the new season begins — our grass might be looking a little worse for wear. This is especially the case if you’ve ended up with a patchy brown lawn that needs some TLC.

What’s more, you’ll want lush, healthy grass all year round by maintaining a good lawn care routine. So how can you revive your patchy lawn after the drought?

Luckily, a lawn expert has revealed that September is the ideal time to begin sowing new seeds — but this only works if you do one vital task before you start. In fact, it’s one of the simplest things that we often forget to do and will make all the difference to the results of our hard efforts.

So, before you start sprinkling your bag of grass seeds, don’t forget to do this one crucial check first.

Check the weather forecast

Since fall weather is so unpredictable, experts suggest you always check your local forecast before seeding, as these conditions can easily ruin germination.

“September is the best time to sow new grass seed, but it’s so important to check the forecast, identifying the temperature and rainfall trends,” advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

“The new seeds will need around two weeks of stable conditions to germinate and establish their first roots; severe weather changes can interrupt the process and leave seeds vulnerable.”

Additionally, you’ll need to get the right balance and ensure the conditions are not too dry or too cold. Both of which can stall the development of your grass seeds, leading to a costly failure where they simply die.

“It only takes a minute, but missing this step could result in a whole bag of seed being wasted,” adds McIIroy. “The soil needs to remain 50°F or above, and you need some rainfall, any frosty nights could interrupt germination.

“If drought conditions continue, grass seed will shrivel and die before it has a chance to germinate. But equally, too much rain can waterlog soil and drown seeds. Not checking the forecast can be a costly mistake, especially when starting a new lawn from scratch.”

However, a little patience will pay off. And he suggests it’s far better to hold out for the ideal environment rather than rushing and wasting your grass seed. Plus, after a parched summer, your lawn must be truly ready for overseeding.

Top tips before seeding your lawn in September

First, you’ll need to remove any debris, tree branches, or dead vegetation to give your new grass the best starting chance.

Additionally, if you find that your grass is parched, you’ll need to know how to aerate your lawn to loosen the soil and allow air and all the nutrients it needs to thrive.

“The new seeds will need good seed-to-soil contact, and if your turf is dry and compacted, you need to scarify and aerate to loosen the soil, ensuring nutrients, air and water can flow easily through the turf,” advises McIlroy.

“Applying a layer of high-quality topsoil also provides an environment for new seeds to thrive in, and a fertiliser can also provide a nutrient boost.”

Another top tip is to get a starter fertilizer that can help to strengthen the young roots as they grow. “Starter fertilisers differ from regular lawn feeds,” McIIroy adds.

“They’re formulated with extra phosphorus to help young roots develop. When you’re sowing new seed, that early root growth is more important than the colour and length on top.

“While September is usually the best time to sow, but it can extend into October if the temperatures allow.”

For more tips and tricks, check out our ultimate lawn care guide for healthy, lush grass.

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Between the summer heatwave and a strictly enforced watering restrictions, my yard didn't stand a chance. By late August, it looked like a doormat. Straw-like and baked dry — it was tempting to accept defeat and leave it till next year.

Then I caught myself and remembered: a brown lawn is usually just dormant and playing defense. As cool weather and seasonal rain roll in, fall offers the ultimate window for a full comeback. If you follow the right recovery plan.

If you want to transform your drought-damaged lawn into a lush, resilient yard before winter hits, here's what you need to do.

1. Aerate compacted soil

Heat and foot traffic compact soil throughout summer, restricting air and water movement to the root zone. Aeration removes small plugs of soil, opening pathways for water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the roots.

Fall aeration is particularly effective because the lawn recovers during its peak growing season. You can rent an aerator, hire a professional, or use a manual aerator or garden fork for smaller lawns.

Aerate when soil is moist but not waterlogged. This ensures the plugs pull cleanly without clogging. Leave the soil plugs on the lawn to break down naturally.

Aeration combined with deep watering dramatically improves recovery because water and nutrients now reach the roots more effectively.

2. Overseed bare patches and thin areas

Heat stress creates bare spots where grass dies back completely. Fall is ideal for overseeding because cooler temperatures and increased rainfall help new seeds germinate.

Start by lightly raking dead material out of bare patches. This removes the thatch layer and allows seeds to contact the soil.

Scatter new grass seed over thinned areas and keep the soil consistently moist until the grass establishes. The key here is consistency. Uneven watering disrupts germination, so check daily and water lightly if rain doesn't fall.

New grass filling in before winter means you'll have a fuller lawn by spring instead of waiting until next summer to see improvement.

3. Water deeply rather than frequently

A struggling lawn needs deep watering, not daily sprinkles. Short, frequent waterings encourage shallow roots that can't access moisture deep in the soil when drought returns

Deep watering forces roots to grow deeper, creating a stronger root system that supports the grass through stress.

Water once every few days, applying enough to soak six inches down. Early morning or late evening watering minimizes evaporation and reduces scorching risk.

You'll know you're watering deeply enough when moisture penetrates the soil without pooling on the surface.

4. Apply lawn fertilizer as growth resumes

Heat and drought deplete soil nutrients, leaving your grass unable to grow vigorously. Once temperatures cool and the grass begins active growth again, a quality slow-release fertilizer supports recovery.

Timing matters. Apply fertilizer only when the soil is moist and the grass is actively growing, not when conditions are still dry.

Follow application instructions carefully, as over-fertilizing can damage recovering grass. Slow-release formulas feed gradually, supporting consistent growth without shocking stressed plants.

The fertilizer replenishes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that heat stress depletes. Combined with improved watering and aeration, fertilizer helps your lawn shift from survival mode to genuine recovery and growth.

5. Strengthen roots with liquid seaweed

Liquid seaweed conditions soil while encouraging deeper root growth and improving nutrient uptake. Regular applications help grass recover faster from heat stress and build resilience against future droughts.

Seaweed provides trace minerals alongside growth-promoting compounds that strengthen the grass from the root level up.

Apply it every three to four weeks during the growing season. Healthier roots mean the grass retains moisture better, stays greener during dry periods, and recovers more quickly when conditions improve.

While this isn't a quick fix, this recovery plan builds long-term lawn health — laying the quiet groundwork now so come next spring, you'll have a lush lawn instead of staring at a sea of straw.

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The promise of many smart home devices is that they can free your time up to do other things, but how often is that reflected in reality?

We could finally be there with robot lawnmowers. I’ve been using the Segway Navimow i215 in my yard for the last few months, and a few exceptions aside, I haven’t thought about mowing my lawn for a long time. But is the Navimow i215 the best robot lawnmower for your yard? It depends on a lot of factors, such as the size and slope of your grass, but there are a few universal takeaways I found from testing this, as well as several other robot lawnmowers.

Read on to see how well the Navimow i215 performed for me, and if I’d pick it over other models.

Picking the right size

When I first talked with Segway about reviewing one of its lawnmowers, I initially requested the Navimow X4, the company’s top-end device that costs $2,500, can tackle just about any terrain, and has independent wheels that allow it to make zero-degree turns. It’s a truly impressive mower — and it proved to be too much for my yard.

The main reason I requested the X4 is that my front yard, despite being very small, is on a bit of a hill that in the past proved too daunting for some robot lawnmowers. However, after running the X4 for a while, I noticed that it would repeatedly skip over certain sections. Confused, I talked with Segway, which said that because my lawn was so small — we’re talking less than 500 square feet — it had trouble taking care of it properly.

Segway then sent me the Navimow i215, which costs about $1,000 less, and is more suited for mid-size to smaller yards.

Price and availability

The i215 is the newest of Segway’s mid-tier robot lawnmowers. It came on the market in 2026, costs $1,599, can cover up to 0.37 acres, and uses both LiDAR and vision systems to map and navigate your yard.

It’s a bit more sophisticated than the i210 AWD ($1,299, 0.25 acres) and the i206 AWD ($999, 0.15 acres), both of which have obstacle avoidance, but lack LiDAR.

An easy — but not trouble-free —setup

Like most new robot lawnmowers, the Navimow i215 has everything it needs built right into the mower, so there’s no need to install a tower or a boundary wire around your property. I simply set up the base station where the robot docks to recharge, and then followed the instructions in the Navimow app to connect it to my home Wi-Fi network.

As part of the setup process, you can send the mower out to automatically map your yard, or you can perform this task manually by driving the bot around the perimeter.

Even after creating the map, it still required some tweaking, as the i215 kept nose diving off one corner of my lawn; I would have hoped its Lidar would have recognized the dropoff. However, all I had to do was go into the app and re-draw the map to shave off a few inches. After those adjustments, I rarely encountered an issue with it going astray.

Obstacle avoidance and mowing performance

The Navimow did a good job at avoiding objects. It successfully navigated around a small soccer ball, as well as a plastic child’s toy, but ran right over an orange ball the size of a baseball; perhaps it felt it was small enough that it wouldn’t be a problem.

However, unlike the Sunseeker X3, which I tested last year, Segway’s mower and app doesn’t mark on its map that it encountered an obstruction. The only indication I got was that the app showed a spot of the lawn that was unmowed.

After scanning your yard, Segway’s mower will also plot the ideal direction to mow your lawn most efficiently. In my case, it was a diagonal line along the long axis. Taking this route also meant it was able to avoid driving directly up the steepest part of my lawn. I still worried about it creating divots in my lawn; more than once, I saw it spin its wheels in place on some of the steeper sections, which tore up the grass a bit.

Within the Segway Navimow app, you can adjust the direction of the mowing, but unlike most other robot lawnmowers we’ve tested, Segway’s app doesn’t let you mow patterns, such as a crosshatch or diamond. Some companies’ mowers will even let you mow shapes, like hearts. While I think that’s a little frivolous, I do wish Segway would offer a little something more in terms of letting you control how the mower cuts your grass.

Smart home and security features

Even the least expensive robot lawnmower will cost upwards of $500, so some sort of security feature is warranted, so that someone doesn’t simply walk away with your mower as it’s making its rounds.

Segway built two protections into the Navimow to keep would-be thieves from absconding with your stuff. Within the Segway app, you can set a geofence boundary around your property, so that if the bot is moved beyond a certain radius, it will sound an alarm. You can set it anywhere from a 33-foot to up to a 164-foot radius; obviously, if your yard is larger than that, you might want to disable this feature.

Should the alarm not be enough of a deterrent, the Navimow i215 is also equipped with Apple FindMy, so you can locate the mower if it goes missing.

Finally, the i215 also works with Alexa and Google Assistant, so you can use your smart speaker of choice to command the mower to start working, or connect it to your other smart home devices and routines.

Bottom line

I was initially skeptical that the Segway Navimow i215 would be able to negotiate my front yard, but the little machine defied my expectations. While it’s not quite as smart as I hoped — it drove itself right off one of my retaining walls — it ultimately performed well over the long run.

I also liked the i215’s security features, but there are still a couple of things I wish were included. For example, the Worx Landroid has an edge-mowing feature, and the Sunseeker S4 will show in the app any objects it encounters in your yard. And, both of those models — which cost less than the Navimow — also let you mow your yard in specific patterns.

So, while Segway has made a very capable robot lawnmower, there are still others that are a cut above.

With a hot summer and low rainfall, even the hardiest lawns have struggled to stay green. Right now, my own fried patch resembles more of a sandy beach than a luscious cascade of green.

Although I’m considering digging up some of my lawn and replacing it with a dry gravel garden, all is not lost. If you take this one action in August, you could be enjoying a green lawn in time for fall.

Don't give up — your lawn will survive

When I walk on my lawn right now, I feel sand between my toes and hear a crackle as the brittle blades snap. I’ve never known a year when my lawn has suffered so much.

However, by following this one lawncare step, you’ll be surprised how quickly your lawn can be transformed from an unattractive patch to a lush expanse of green.

But right now, you may also be questioning whether your brown, yellowing lawn will bounce back when it seems there’s no chance of survival. Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, says don’t give up hope. “Most brown lawns are in fact dormant, and haven’t completely died back yet.

“When moisture is low, grass focuses its energy on protecting its root system, the beating heart of the lawn, so this is why color drains from the visible sward above the soil.”

And he explains that the lawn will begin to flourish once it receives adequate hydration. However, because the soil is parched, intervention helps to ensure water reaches the roots. If not, water will pool on your lawn and won’t be absorbed into the soil.

That’s where this lawn hack comes in; it helps your lawn absorb the essentials to bring it back to full health

Start by aerating your lawn

So the one task you can do this month to help your lawn absorb moisture is to aerate your lawn, and all you need is a garden fork. During the drier months, your soil has become compacted and needs to be broken up to improve airflow, water absorption and nutrient access.

Inserting a garden fork or lawn aerator into your soil creates many small holes that act as channels, allowing water, oxygen and nutrients to reach the soil and strengthening the root system.

Aerating your lawn with a garden fork

If aerating your lawn manually with a garden fork, Luke Taylor and Marc Kerr, in their book ‘Lawns: An uncomplicated guide’, $15 at Amazon, recommend following these three steps:

1. Insert your garden fork roughly 6 inches deep into the soil.

2. Push forwards as you remove the fork from the soil. They explain that this will help make the holes slightly larger, create additional cracks for aeration, and allow you to remove the fork easily.

3. Continue this process, spacing the holes around 5-6 inches, until you cover the whole surface of your lawn.

In addition to a garden fork, you can also use a lawn aerator, designed specifically for the job.

Test your lawn for compaction: Try the screwdriver test

If you want to ensure your lawn is compacted before you insert a garden fork across it, Laura Bradbury, head of e-commerce at Vonhaus, suggests trying a hack using a screwdriver.

She says, “Push a long screwdriver gently into a few different sections of the lawn. If it goes into some areas easily but meets much more resistance in others, particularly where furniture, paddling pools or heavy footfall have been over summer, the soil may have become compacted.”

And Bradbury adds that the screwdriver test gives homeowners a quick way to compare different parts of the lawn before committing to a larger job.

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It's the height of summer right now, but it won't be long before fall — and if you have a tree in or near to your property then your garden or drive is about to be full of leaves.

If you want to clean up quickly then a leaf blower is a must-buy. These handy tools do exactly what you'd expect from the name, so that you can get leaves and other garden debris into neat piles, ready for disposal.

For this article I've picked out 12 leaf blowers from a range of top brands, including Ego Power, Greenworks, DeWalt and more. What's more, many of these leaf blowers have money off, meaning that now is a great time to buy and get ready for autumn.

With yet another heatwave on the horizon in the U.K., my lawn is looking parched and in need of some attention, and I can’t see it improving anytime soon.

But despite my lawn resembling straw and going into dormancy, the weeds are still thriving. And since they are so easy to identify right now, it feels like the ultimate time to get stuck into some weed removal. But before heading into my yard to make a costly mistake, I checked in with a lawn care specialist to see if now is a prime time to pull them out.

Can you treat lawn weeds in dry conditions?

It might seem like the perfect time to strike, but according to Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, spraying lawn weeds now could be a waste of time, or even do more harm than good.

“I wouldn't recommend treating lawn weeds while the grass is dormant or drought-stressed,” says Davis. “Although the weeds may be easier to see, the conditions simply aren't suitable for effective or safe treatment.”

Why spraying weeds in dry conditions is a bad idea

The main issue is that weedkiller doesn’t work well in dry conditions, with Davis explaining that your already-struggling lawn is more likely to get damaged by it. “The grass is already under pressure in these conditions and that makes it more vulnerable to damage from any kind of treatment.”

Reaching for a stronger or more specialist product won’t get around the problem, either. “No particular product will overcome poor growing conditions. Many selective lawn weedkillers advise against use during drought conditions, so it is best to follow the label instructions,” he warns.

And he adds, that even if you do see some effect, in the long-term the treatment is unlikely to last.

“Further weeds may appear once wetter weather returns,” Davis says, “so treating during the drought may provide limited benefit.”

What can you do about the weeds?

While chemical treatment is off the table for as long as the hot weather stays, you’re not completely stuck watching weeds overtake your lawn.

“A small number of isolated weeds can be removed carefully by hand, provided this does not disturb the surrounding turf,” says Davis.

It may take longer than reaching for a spray bottle, but it won’t put your lawn at any extra risk.

Other lawn jobs to take care of when it's dry
Beyond pulling the odd weed by hand, there are a handful of jobs that are safe to crack on with during a drought.

“If you’re able to water, be sure to use a wetting agent to help any rain or irrigation soak in properly, lightly prick or spike the surface to aid absorption, and keep mowing regularly to stop weeds and weed grasses from setting seed,” he advises. “Everything else, including fertilizer, moss killer and scarifying, needs to wait.”

How to tell if it’s actually drought stress

It’s important to check whether your lawn is suffering from drought stress or a different issue, such as lawn burn or red thread.

“A dry lawn and a burned lawn can look very similar, so it’s worth checking before you assume it’s a drought,” he says.

Fortunately, there is an easy way to check whether your lawn is stressed through lack of hydration. Davis explains, “Get a bulb planter, or the corner of a spade, and cut a small hole in the lawn about three inches deep. Then take a look at the soil. If it’s dry, dusty or crumbly, that confirms drought. If it’s dark and sticking together in grains, there’s still moisture down there, and something else is likely going on.”

If you don’t have a bulb planter to hand, Davis suggests a simple alternative. “Stab a spade into the lawn at a 45-degree angle to a depth of three or four inches, then make two more cuts so they form a triangle. Lift the wedge out gently, and you can inspect the soil underneath directly.”

Either way, he advises it’s worth ruling drought in or out before deciding on a fix.

When it's safe to treat the weeds

The rule of thumb, according to Davis, is patience. “Wait until moisture has returned to the soil and both the grass and weeds are actively growing again," he says, "Then apply a suitable product in cooler, calm conditions and follow the label instructions.”

The ‘actively growing’ test applies well beyond weed control too, covering feeding, scarifying and seeding alike. Until the rain returns and your lawn is visibly growing again, rather than just surviving, the best thing you can do for it is very little at all.

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Relentless summertime heatwaves, paired with consistently high temperatures and scarce rainfall, have left our once pristine lawns looking brown, patchy and parched. With drought declarations and strict water restrictions in many areas, restoring that lush lawn back to its former glory seems almost impossible.

Making matters worse, as we step into August — traditionally the second-hottest month in the year following July — the forecast shows the extreme heat isn’t letting up anytime soon.

The unpredictable climate has left gardeners wondering what to do with their lawns and how to care for them in August. To solve the conundrum, I asked Chris McIIroy, lawn care expert at The Grass People, to share the dos and don’ts of tackling lawn care this month.

The dos and don'ts of lawn care in August

Don’t dethatch

Removing natural debris that has settled on your lawn might seem tempting and help watering efforts, but in peak summer, the experts warn against it.

McIIroy says, “Dethatching in August is generally not recommended. The process can be quite stressful for your lawn, and combined with the summer heat, it could do more harm than good. It’s best to wait until the cooler, more forgiving months in early fall for dethatching.”

Do mow

Keeping a lawn a little bit longer in a heatwave can provide shade for the turf, but if grass is growing at a healthy rate, giving it a light trim when the temperatures aren’t too high can be helpful.

McIIroy says, “Mow your lawn regularly, aiming for once a week. However, adjust the frequency based on growth rates and weather conditions. If your grass’ growth is stunted, maybe leave it 10 days between mows.”

But if the conditions are too dry, he suggests keeping your grass a little bit longer to help retain moisture levels.

He also explains that raising the mower blade and keeping the grass a touch longer can also help, as the longer blade shades the soil and assists with moisture retention. “You should also raise the mower’s setting if the weather gets damper and moss starts to reappear,” he adds.

Don’t leave clippings on the lawn

Some gardeners believe leaving cut grass blades on the lawn might provide protection from the heat, but McIIroy warns it can actually do the opposite. “Clippings actually trap heat, raising the temperature around the turf, and he adds. “The humidity created by the heat and moisture can create the perfect breeding ground for bacteria.”

Bacteria can harm water and nutrient flow and cause the grass to wilt, turn yellow or copper-red.

Do water

Lawns will be in need of hydration after the repeated hot weather spells combined with little rainfall.

But McIIroy says that watering is tricky right now, especially for those in the U.K. and U.S. who have water use restrictions.

However, if you aren’t restricted, he says, “Water early in the morning so hydration reaches the roots without evaporating first. Focus on giving it a deep soak once or twice a week to encourage deep root growth.

“You can also use a wetting agent to enhance efforts and to ensure water breaks through the tough turf.”

You might also be wondering if it’s safe to remove weeds when your lawn is parched.

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With summer temperatures continuing to soar, we aren’t the only ones feeling the heat — your lawn is likely parched, too.

Looking out onto my backyard each morning, I can see that it is struggling and desperate for a revival. That’s why consistent watering is crucial for gardeners right now — assuming you aren’t under local water restrictions or hosepipe bans in the U.K.

But keeping a lush lawn takes more than water; it needs nutrients to bounce back. Luckily, the secret to a healthier lawn might already be in your bathroom cabinet — an everyday staple often used after a hard day’s work in the yard.

The tonic your lawn's crying out for

It turns out the mineral that eases muscle aches and pains in the bath can also be used to fertilize your lawn. What’s more, Epsom salts are far cheaper than any lawn fertilizer you can buy and can be picked up for a few dollars in your local grocery store.

According to the Epsom Salt Council, the two naturally occurring minerals in Epsom salts — magnesium and sulfur — can help lawns grow. Magnesium increases chlorophyll production and improves phosphorus and nitrogen uptake, helping your lawn stay lush and green. Sulfur supports overall plant metabolism and enzyme functions to help turf stay hardier.

How to apply Epsom salt to your lawn

The Epsom Salt Council recommends applying 3lbs of Epsom salts for every 1,250ft of lawn. It can be applied with a spreader or diluted with water and added to a sprayer.

The best time to apply the feed is in the early morning or early evening. Other times of the day can be too hot, and the water is more likely to evaporate before it has a chance to be absorbed and taken to the roots.

When to use Epsom salt on your lawn

Epsom salts should only be applied to your lawn when you know it’s deficient in magnesium, so it’s recommended you take a soil test before applying it as a fertilizer. The Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Kit is available for $12 at Amazon.

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Wild violets are the wolf in sheep's clothing of lawn weeds. In spring, their small purple flowers look charming enough that many homeowners leave them alone. By midsummer, you realize they've taken over.

The issue with wild violets is they're designed to trick you into failure. Their leaves have a waxy coating that repels standard herbicides. Underground, they've developed a network of tubers that survive pulling, mowing, and casual attempts at removal. By the time you realize it's a problem, they're already winning. Here's how to take your lawn back.

Why wild violets are so hard to kill

Those purple flowers are lovely, which is exactly why people ignore wild violets until it's too late. The real threat is underground. Wild violets develop rhizomes: tough, fleshy underground stems that store energy and keep the plant alive even when you think you've eliminated it.

Above ground, the leaves have a protective waxy layer that causes liquid herbicides to slide right off without penetrating.

This combination makes them nearly impossible to kill with casual effort. They also spread aggressively. Wild violets produce seed pods both above and below ground, meaning they're distributing seeds whether you see it happening or not.

If you've got wild violets in your yard, assume they're already further along than they appear.

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A week of brutal heat and your lawn turns brown. It looks fried. Looks dead. Your instinct is to do something: pull out the hose at sunset, grab fertilizer, lower the mower blade. These feel like solutions. They're not.

Most of that browning is dormancy, not death. Your grass is shutting down to survive the heat, which is exactly what it should do. The problem is that three specific mistakes can actually kill what dormancy doesn't. These mistakes are so common that most people don't realize they're doing them.

Here's what's going wrong and how to fix it before you accidentally kill what's still salvageable.

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Summer is the best time to get out into your garden and enjoy your outside space. It's also one of the hardest times to keep your lawn in top condition, battling with hot weather, dry soil, and all of that extra use.

While I've been using 3 drought-proofing steps to protect my lawn during heatwaves, I can't help but notice I'm still struggling with specific issues. And I know I'm not the only one.

So, it only felt right to put it to our readers and ask: "What is the biggest problem you have with your lawn?" Over 3,000 of you answered, and here's what came out on top. Even better, I've got tips on how to fix it.

The number one lawn problem, according to readers

There was one resounding answer that came from our poll, far outweighing other issues, and that's bare patches. With a massive 3,079 votes totalling 64% of our readers' answers, it's a patchy lawn that seems to be causing the most bother.

To give you an idea of just how dominant this issue is, the second issue was crabgrass that received 625 votes (13%) followed by dog wee stains at 451 votes (9%) and dandelions at 388 votes (8%).

And I completely agree, struggling with bare patches myself and trying desperately to make sure my grass looks even across my lawn.

Fortunately, there's plenty of solutions to try that we've covered across a range of how-to guides. I'll delve into some of the top tips below and hopefully next time we run a poll, bare patches won't be such a problem.

How to tackle bare patches

From 5-minute quick fixes to step-by-step guides, depending on how much time you've got on your hands, these are the top tips I recommend to try out on that patchy lawn.

1. Try overseeding

It might seem like all hope is lost when your grass suddenly turns into a bare, soil patch on your lawn, but you can reapply seed to help with regrowth. It's called overseeding and it's a method used to block out weeds, cover up bare turf, and ultimately create a lawn that is covered with even grass.

But, you may find that even when you've overseeded it, you're still experiencing patchiness. There's a few reasons for that, but nothing our next step can't try and solve.

2. Reseed if the first go didn't take

Sometimes one overseeding session isn't quite enough and that's a problem answered by Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf when we spoke with her about yellow patches on lawns: "You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth."

The answer for this? Reseed and focus on even distribution across your lawn, in case the way you're applying it by hand is too thinly spread.

3. Add a layer of topsoil

Additionally, to protect the seed, you can add a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. As Handley recommends: "This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate."

Consider it an extra layer of protection, prompting grass growth and hopefully leading to a less patchy lawn.

4. Try a good fertilizer

Finally, you might want to think about adding some fertilizer to your lawn. Sure, it's hard to know how often you should fertilize your lawn and when to do it, but as advice widely varies it's always a good idea to check the type of fertilizer you're using and what job you want it to do.

If you can nail down some good practice with fertilizer, as well as choosing one that's suitable for the job, you can tackle those patchy areas in no time at all. Or, so I'm trying to do myself.

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I must confess, I’ve been a bit late to the game when it comes to embracing robot lawnmowers for hands-free lawn maintenance. And given that I write about home and gardening trends for a living, this might come as a surprise.

But despite my loyalty to the power and reliability of my corded model, the constant hassle of untangling extension cords and getting to outdoor power points was starting to wear thin. Which is exactly what convinced me to finally let a robot lawn mower loose in my own yard.

Similar to robot vacuum cleaners, I thoroughly enjoyed the perks and convenience of just putting my feet up and letting a robot do all the work for me. Plus, it saved me the manual labor and the time-consuming nature of the chore.

However, there is a crucial detail I overlooked that I wished I had considered before using a robot mower. What’s more, this is a common issue that many people don’t factor in – and one of the top signs your yard may not be suitable for a robot lawn mower.

Here’s what happened when I first tried a robot lawnmower.

Check your robot mower is suitable for your lawn

One common assumption I had was that all robot lawnmowers would be ideal for every outdoor space. However, as it turns out, this is the one crucial detail I overlooked for my own uneven terrain.

Unlike standard flat yards, my lawn has a few bumps and features a noticeable dip toward the lower end.

I have to admit, I was very impressed with the precise trim and mapping performance given by my Terramow V1000 in my small-to-medium-sized yard.

In addition, the compact mower was easy to set up and connect via the app, with intuitive controls and settings.

Plus, for a novice in the world of robot mowers, these user-friendly features were a much-welcome bonus.

However, despite the razor-sharp trim, I noticed the robot lagged once it reached the more challenging slopes of my lawn and a paved path — in which case it would often get a little stuck (despite having rear-wheel drive).

While it wasn’t a dealbreaker helping it along past that point, it did make me realize that not all yards are suitable for standard domestic robot lawnmowers.

Typically, robot lawnmowers can work on all types of (mostly-flat) lawns; however, you’ll likely need a more powerful model to tackle uneven or steep inclines with ease.

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” said Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna.

“Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

In fact, my experience with the Terramow V1000 is a stark contrast to when I put the remote-operated Mowrator S1 4WD Lawnmower through its paces a couple of years ago. Although it’s not fully automated, I found it to be a mighty powerhouse for my yard. It handled my tricky hills and steep gradients effortlessly, delivering truly impressive results.

In any case, I still preferred the hands-free convenience of the Terramow any day. Plus, I liked how it was user-friendly, had smart features, and a compact size — making it easier to store away.

So, whether you’re looking to upgrade your mower or simply want your weekends to be stress-free, be sure to evaluate your lawn’s dimensions and terrain before choosing a mower with enough muscle to navigate your lawn’s challenges.

For more top tips, check out buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider before you get one.

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I don’t mind mowing my backyard; it’s small, level, and is more or less a rectangle.

My front yard is another story. Despite it being half the size, it’s on a hill — about 20 degrees — and in order to get to it, I have to carry a lawnmower up several steps. So it’s been with great relish that I’ve been able to test robot lawnmowers for the past few years. It’s certainly saved me time and aggravation.

But it hasn’t all been easy. There have been plenty of issues I’ve encountered during the setup process and while using robot lawnmowers that had me wondering if I should just go back to mowing my yard myself.

Having tested several models over the past five years ranging from $1,000 to more than $2,500 (and edited reviews of several others), there’s a few pieces of advice I’ve picked up that should help you make a more informed decision when buying and using your first robot lawnmower.

Know your yard

There’s no point in getting a robot lawnmower that’s overbuilt for your yard, and in fact, may work to your detriment — and your wallet.

Find out the square footage of your yard, and then find a robot lawnmower that fits those dimensions. If you get a mega-sized lawnmower but have a postage stamp for a yard, the larger mower may actually have trouble mapping everything properly.

In fact, I was testing the $2,500 Segway Navimow X4 — which to be sure is really cool — but ironically, it couldn't effectively get to all of my small yard. Segway replaced it with the $1,399 Navimow i215 LiDAR, which may not look like something out of a science fiction movie, but costs half as much, and is actually able to mow my whole lawn. (Stay tuned for my full review.)

Yes, there are some truly impressive mega-robots, like the Yarbo, but there’s no sense spending upwards of $2,000 for a lawnmower when something half the price will do.

At the same time, you’ll also want to take into account if your yard has any steep dropoffs or angles, and look for a robot lawnmower that can handle those inclines. There’s been a couple of lawnmowers that worked perfectly well in my backyard, but struggled on the incline in the front, digging divots into the ground.

Boundary wires are so three years ago

When robot lawnmowers first arrived, you had to install a boundary wire around your yard; the lawnmower would then randomly bounce around inside the border until everything was mowed, not unlike the original robot vacuums. It was a real pain, especially when the mower would accidentally run over the wire and slice it in two.

The newest models do away with all that. Using a combination of GPS, Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) and cameras, robot lawnmowers can now accurately map your yard without that time-consuming step. Now, the bot can autonomously map your lawn, or you can just drive it around the edges.

So, look for a robot lawnmower that uses RTK; it’ll cost a little more than the older boundary wire models, but this is definitely worth the added convenience. Plus, the newer models also have more advanced features like obstacle avoidance.

They’re not set-and-forget

As smart as robot lawnmowers have become, they’re still not all that intelligent. Even if they manage to do a good job of autonomously mapping your yard, you’ll still most likely have to tweak the maps they create to ensure they’re mowing everything properly, and not running over your prized petunias.

Case in point: My front yard is bisected by a walkway with a few landings and stairs, as well as a few dropoffs on the sides. Despite me manually mapping the yard each time, almost every robot lawnmower I’ve tested will manage to take a tumble down a step or two, or manage to get itself stuck on a ledge. Fortunately, all of the robot lawnmowing apps I’ve used let you tweak the boundaries fairly easily.

You’re still going to have to do some work around the edges

Sorry to say, but a robot lawnmower isn’t going to magically eliminate all your yardwork. While they’re getting pretty good at edging, I still have to go and use my string trimmer to touch up areas around the borders, as well as the strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street.

And, unless you get the aforementioned Yarbo and all its attachments, you’ll still need to rake the leaves from your yard in the fall (or you could opt to leave them in place).

Your neighbors are going to stare

While robot lawnmowers are fairly common in Europe, they’re still a novelty in the U.S., so every time my mower is out doing its rounds, passers-by almost always stop to watch it mowing. It becomes a bit of a conversation piece if I happen to be outside at the time, so it’s a good way to chat with your neighbors and get to know them better.

Do you own a robot lawnmower? If so, how long have you had it, and what sort of things have you experienced? Let me know in the comments.

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With intense heat and sparse rain, your biggest gardening dilemma right now is probably how to keep your lawn alive in a heatwave. And when your pristine, lush patch of green transforms into brittle yellow straw, your first response is most likely to panic-water it back to health.

Spotting a distressed lawn isn’t hard. Just looking at it change from a vibrant green to a blue-gray, then to yellow, before it enters dormancy to conserve water, is a clear indication that heat and lack of water have had a significant impact.

While you can always revive a scorched lawn after the damage is done, the smartest move is to take a proactive stance. Building deep drought resilience gives your grass every chance of survival before the next scorcher hits.

Here, lawn care experts share how to get your lawn prepared for another bout of heat.

Why lawns struggle during heatwaves

Firstly, it helps to understand what happens to a lawn when it’s heat-stressed. Much of its energy goes into coping with the heat, causing it to slow down and even enter dormancy. It also starts to lose water faster than it can obtain it.

But it's not over, as the energy gets directed to the roots to help them survive. Then, once the weather becomes milder, it will emerge from its dormant stage and turn green once more.

How to prepare your lawn for future heatwaves

1. Aerate

Aeration is one of the key ways to build resilience in your lawn, with Luke Taylor and Marc Kerr, founders of So & Mo, and authors of Lawns: An Uncomplicated Guide, sharing that “well-aerated lawns perform better under severe conditions of drought and waterlogging.”

So what does aeration involve, and do you need a special tool?

“Aeration is the process of creating lots of small holes, which act as channels of air all over your lawn,” explained Taylor and Kerr, adding, “It helps break down compacted soil and facilitates the penetration of water, oxygen and nutrients into the ground, which in turn increases the beneficial microbial environment and strengthens the root system,” they explain.

Aeration can be done using two methods: either using hollow tines to remove plugs of earth from the ground, or using solid tines, which push the soil down, compacting it below.

I favor using hollow tines to remove the soil, rather than compacting it further. You could try Yard Butler’s Manual Lawn Coring Aerator ($48 at Amazon), or, if you’d prefer to use a tool you already have, a garden fork will also do the job.

2. Ditch the fertilizer

Rather than adding extra nutrients to your lawn in a heatwave, Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, says it should be avoided.

“Fertilizer will scorch your grass in extreme heat and damage its root system. Your lawn is already trying to conserve water during a heatwave, so extra stress will only compound the damage,” Koenig explained.

Craig Elworthy, founder at Lawnbright, also advises against applying fertilizer, as it can further stress the lawn and cause disease. Instead, he recommends using a natural alternative that strengthens grass roots systems and improves drought resistance. He advises, “Consider applying liquid sea kelp or humic acid to help the lawn deal with heat stress.”

3. Get into the habit of deep watering

“It may be tempting to water your lawn for a short period each day, but these short, frequent waterings cause the grass to develop a shallow root system or lead to overwatering, which can cause disease,” explained Koenig.

And it’s this shallow root system that makes the turf vulnerable to burning out during periods of stress, such as heat and drought.

Instead, she advised, “If watering is needed in any season, prioritize long, deep, infrequent waterings. This will allow the water to get down deep into the root system, which encourages the deeper root growth needed to adequately store the nutrients and water it needs to survive high temperatures.”

The time of day you water your lawn will also affect how much water is absorbed and whether water droplets scorch and damage the grass. The best time of day is always in the early morning.

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Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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With prolonged heatwaves and fears of drought, keeping your lawn lush and green becomes increasingly difficult as warm weather and dry conditions persist.

To help you deal with extreme summer weather without destroying your turf, I asked lawn care experts how to keep your lawn alive as temperatures rise.

How to tell if your lawn is heat stressed

Before you start treating your lawn for heat stress, you need to ensure it’s the temperature and lack of water that’s causing the problem.

It changes color
“When grass undergoes drought stress, it starts to wilt and turn blue, a bluish gray, as opposed to keeping its lush green color,” says Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

Craig Elworthy, founder at Lawnbright, agrees and says that detecting the grey or bluish tint is “your sign to get water on it now or it will likely begin to go dormant.”

Try the footprint test or screwdriver test
Another indication of water deficiency is the loss of resilience. “If you step on the grass and it leaves a footprint, it likely needs water,” says Koenig. “Under normal moisture conditions, the grass should spring back up instead of leaving traffic marks.”

If you’re still unsure, Koenig suggests trying the screwdriver test to check the soil’s moisture level. She says, “First, stick a screwdriver into the soil. This creates a small hole that will allow you to feel the soil about 3-4 inches down. If it’s hard to push the screwdriver in, it’s likely the soil is dry and in need of watering.”

If you haven’t got a screwdriver to hand, a soil probe or pocketknife will also do the trick.

What happens to your lawn when it’s heat-stressed?

“In a heatwave, your lawn is essentially running a marathon. It’s using all of its energy just to get through the intense heat,” says Elworthy. “This causes growth to slow down or even stop altogether.”

Roger May, PhD, director of operations support at TruGreen, adds, “During extreme temperatures, grass loses moisture faster than roots absorb it.”

When coupled with a lack of water, the lawn will enter dormancy, turning brown until both temperature and moisture conditions are more favorable.

However, grass dying from heat alone is rarer than you might think. Koenig explains that the grass is redirecting its stored resources straight to the roots to survive, and that it will “green up” when more moderate conditions return.

But unlike your grass, the weeds can still thrive, and may well be the greenest spots on your lawn. However, it isn’t necessarily the best time to treat them.

Which grass is better at coping with extreme heat?

Grasses are split into two groups — warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses are better equipped to withstand summer heatwaves, while cool-season grasses green up more quickly after winter. Your choice of grass should depend on the climate in your region.

“Bermuda grass and zoysia stand out as top performers for heat and drought in areas where warm-season grasses thrive,” says May. “These drought-resistant grasses stay vibrant while using less water and are recommended across very different hot climates — from the Western U.S. to Texas — because they tolerate scorching heat and dry spells while recovering quickly.”

So, what makes these grass types able to deal with heat and drought? “Their root systems develop to reach beyond a foot below the surface, tapping moisture reserves that shallow-rooted varieties can’t access,” explains May.

He also adds that thicker leaf cells and waxy coatings reduce moisture loss, and that some varieties can still function when soil temperatures exceed 100°F.

Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass, struggle in the heat. If you are planting a cool-season grass, Elworthy recommends choosing tall fescue. “The roots can extend deep, away from the sun’s harsh rays.”

What’s more, he adds that fescue requires less water and fertilizer than other grass types.

How to care for your lawn in a heatwave

When it comes to caring for your lawn in a heatwave, the best advice is less is more.

1. Raise the height of your lawnmower

“As the temperature rises, so should your lawn height,” says Koenig. “I recommend keeping cool-season grass 3 or 3.5 inches long in the summer, or up to 4 inches for tall fescue and perennial ryegrass. Warm-season grasses should be kept shorter, around 2 to 2.5 inches.”

So why should the grass be left longer in a heatwave? According to Koenig, cutting too low exposes more soil, and in the summer, this leads to more moisture loss. “If you keep your blades slightly taller, your lawn is more protected from heat stress and weeds. This small adjustment can significantly improve drought resilience,” she explains.

Top tip: Follow the one-third rule
When mowing your lawn during a heatwave, Koenig advises never to remove more than one-third of the leaf tissue or blade at a time, as it’s where the plant’s food production occurs.

2. Leave grass clippings on your lawn

Rather than removing the grass clippings to create a tidy lawn, Chrisie Handley, lawncare specialist at Online Turf, suggests leaving them in place to act as a natural mulch. “They shade the ground, reduce water loss, and deliver a natural nitrogen boost as they break down,” she says.

3. Water deeply

A light sprinkle of water isn’t going to help your lawn, as it will encourage a shallow root system, which is more likely to burn out.

Instead, Handley recommends watering deeply for an extended period of time to promote healthier, more stable root systems. “The stronger and more stable the plant, the better chance it has of surviving drought conditions in the future,” she explains.

Top tip: The best time of day to water
Your grass will also thank you for being watered in the morning, avoiding the midday heat and the subsequent evaporation before the water reaches the roots.

4. Avoid fertilizer

Although your lawn may look like it needs nutrients, applying fertilizer in a heatwave should be avoided. Koenig explains, “Fertilizer will scorch your grass in extreme heat and damage its root system. Your lawn is already trying to conserve water during a heatwave, so extra stress will only compound the damage.”

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Summer is here and it's time to get out into the garden. But if, like me, your outdoor space is perhaps looking slightly neglected and your lawn could do with a little TLC, then it's time to invest in a new lawn mower.

For this list I've pulled together a selection of high quality mowers to suit a range of budgets and preferences. There are cordless electric mowers, hand-pushed manual models, and even robot mowers that will do the job for you. I've also picked out a few associated products, including strimmers and edgers. These are the tools that will help you get your garden into shape quickly, just in time for your next party or BBQ — and at a reasonable price, too.

As the weather warms up, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy — particularly when preparing for outdoor entertaining.

And while you might already have a lawn care routine that you stick to, you might be forgetting to do this one crucial step before cutting your grass. In fact, it’s a common mistake we often make when mowing our lawn, but if left unchecked, it can cause long-term damage to our mower’s blades.

What’s more, this could ruin your lush, healthy grass just as the summer begins. So if you want to ensure a greener lawn, don’t skip this one lawn mower check.

Make sure the grass is dry before cutting

While this might not seem necessary in warmer months, you should always check that your grass is dry before getting the mower out. Be it from morning dew or a summer shower, excess moisture can make all the difference to your mower blades.

This is due to the fact that damp blades of grass tend to stick or clump together, which can significantly blunt your mower's cutting edge over time. Consequently, this makes the blades work less effectively and could cause them to overheat, as they’ll need to work harder to get through the clumps — and potentially make your mower break down.

In addition, moist cuttings can build up beneath the mower deck and across your blades, which results in rusted metal components and a decline in your machine’s efficiency.

Of course, keeping your lawn mower in top condition is vital, so ensure your mower blades are sharp and avoid mowing with blunt equipment.

There are many blade sharpening tools available online; however, a metal file also works well — always follow the safety guidelines for your mower. Check out our guide on how to sharpen lawn mower blades for more info.

Uneven and lackluster grass

To make matters worse, mowing when the grass is moist can trigger various other problems that can affect your turf's health. The first is torn or unevenly cut grass, as the sheer weight of moisture forces individual grass stalks to droop, preventing them from remaining upright and resulting in an uneven, ragged finish across your turf.

Another issue is the breeding of fungus and other diseases, as they thrive in the damp conditions of these rough cuts — causing damage to soil.

It’s worth noting that while cutting lightly damp grass on a single occasion probably won’t lead to long-term problems, it’s still best to avoid it as much as possible.

Just be sure to avoid these 7 lawnmower mistakes you’re probably making right now.

When is the best time to mow your lawn?

Gardening experts suggest that the ideal time to mow is mid-morning (by 10 am), as your lawn has had sufficient time to dry. In addition, allowing your turf enough time to dry and mowing by this time ensures your lawn has the full day to heal from the cut.

Alternatively, if you can’t get round to mid-morning, late afternoon (between 4-6 pm) is the second-best time of day to mow your lawn. This is when the sun is not at its peak, and there is no risk of the heat scorching the lawn. Also, mowing at this hour additionally provides your grass with ample time to heal before nightfall.

For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Mowing my yard is one chore I never look forward to. Well, at least not as I get older. I used to love mowing the grass for the workout, but now it does nothing but trigger my allergies.

I've experimented with robot lawnmowers in the past. I've paid $175 a month — even during the winter, when they weren't in use — to rent a couple of Husqvarna mowers from a landscaping company. Eventually, I realized it wasn't a wise investment, so I canceled the contract. Later on, I tested the EcoFlow Blade for a while, but its wheels loved to dig holes in my yard with each and every turn, so eventually I stopped using it.

For the last month, I've been testing the Sunseeker S4, a robot lawnmower that leverages AI and LiDAR for mapping and navigation. I don't want to spoil the review, but I'm smitten.

Sunseeker S4 review: Price and availability

The Sunseeker S4 is currently available directly from Sunseeker with a regular price of $1,799 but a sale price of $1,299, but Amazon has it on sale right now for just $984. That includes the robot lawnmower, a docking station, extra blades, and a cleaning brush for the LiDAR sensor.

If you're reading this and the S4 has returned to its normal price, I'd wait for a sale.

Sunseeker S4 review: Design

The S4 doesn't break the mold when it comes to the robot lawnmower's overall design. It's compact, measuring 25.12 x 16.61 x 10.79 inches, and weighs 26 pounds. In the event the robot gets stuck somewhere and you need to lift it, there's a handle built into the rear of the housing that makes it a breeze to pick up.

On the front of the S4 is a monocular camera with a 360-degree LiDAR sensor on top. It's tucked into a bumper that slightly moves in when the lawnmower presses against a hard object, The sensor is easy to spot due to its black bubble-like housing.

Behind the LiDAR bubble is a flip-up cover that hides an LCD display and a few buttons you can use to interact with the S4 — although I rarely had a need to do so — and a manual dial you use to adjust the cutting height, which ranges from 1.6 to 3.2 inches. There's a giant red STOP button that you can press to immediately stop the S4 in case of an emergency.

Underneath the stop button is the handle I previously mentioned. The S4 is rear-wheel driven with two trolley wheels that spin and move wherever the two rear wheels push the robot. Sunseeker's specs put the max gradient at 22 degrees — a stat that didn't apply to my mostly flat backyard. However, there's a slight slope to my front yard (I've never measured it), but the S4 didn't have any issues with slipping, even if the grass was wet.

When you flip the S4 over, you'll see six blades attached to a disc. It always amazes me when I test a robot lawnmower how small the blades are; they often look like razor blades you'd find in a box cutter.

Sunseeker S4 review: Installation and mapping

Setting up the S4 was a breeze. You'll first need to decide where you want to — and can — install the charging station. It measures 30 x 19 x 14.5 inches and can be placed at the edge of your yard, or even outside of it if you'd rather. You'll need a weatherproof electrical outlet nearby.

I already had a section of my yard that'd been killed by previous robot lawnmower docks, so it was an easy choice for me. I swapped out the old broken station and replaced it with the Sunseeker S4 in about 10 minutes. After sliding the S4 into the charging station, I created an account in the Sunseeker app, connected the S4 to my account and waited for the battery to fully charge.

The app walked me through the initial mapping of my yard, which required me to drive the S4 to a starting point along the edge of my grass. At that point, I could either continue to use my phone as a Bluetooth remote control and manually map my yard, or I could let the S4 automatically roam around the edge and create a map on its own. I stood by, ready to take over if needed, but the S4 slowly and judiciously creeped along the edge of my grass.

The S4 is the first robot lawnmower I've used that maps on its own, and I was impressed. There were a few areas I had to go back and manually drive the S4 over, adding to the existing map, but it was a much easier and streamlined process than I'd experienced with the EcoFlow Blade.

After mapping my backyard, I created a second zone, consisting of my front yard and let the S4 work its magic with mapping. There are a couple of trees in that yard, along with more corners and angled sections — unlike my backyard that has three flat edges. The S4 needed a little more help with correcting the front yard's map, but overall the process was simple.

So simple, in fact, I deleted both maps in the app and went through the process multiple times with similar results. You can save maps in the Sunseeker app and easily switch between them, which is also a nice touch.

My favorite part of mapping my yard, however, wasn't how easy it was, but instead it was the 3D map the LiDAR sensor created that I could view in the app.

It's one thing to read that a device has LiDAR and assume it'll help with object identification, navigation and mapping — but it's another to actually see what the S4 sees, down to the batting cage in the back corner of my yard along with the power and cable lines that run above my yard.

As far as object detection and avoidance goes, the S4 routinely routed itself around objects as big as my English Bulldog who walks in front of it daily, or as small as a Wiffle ball my kids leave in the yard. I didn’t expect it to see the latter at all and run it over instead, but once it gets within a few inches, it stops, slightly turns and goes around it.

Sunseeker S4 review: Performance

With two zones created, I used the Sunseeker app to create a path between them. I then set a schedule for Zone 1, the backyard, to be mowed Monday-Friday between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. There's a gate between my yards, so I couldn't set a schedule for Zone 2 as I have to manually open and close the gate when the robot needs to get through.

According to the Sunseeker app, Zone 1 is 3,184.96 square feet and Zone 2 is 2,690 square feet, for a total of 5,874.96 square feet between the two.

The initial pass over my backyard with grass — which was longer than I'd like to admit — required a couple of trips to the charging station. The S4 ran for around 90 minutes each time, and then took a couple of hours to charge before heading back out to complete the task.

The same can be said about mowing the front yard, which I asked it to do the following day. That process was tedious, only because I had to monitor the battery status in the app to let the S4 into the backyard so it could charge, and then let it back out once the battery was full. In total, it was two trips back and forth.

However, after that initial cut, the S4's cut time has dropped significantly. The backyard does require a return trip to charge for a little over an hour, then it heads back out for 20 minutes to finish the job. In total, it takes just under 2 hours of cutting time to mow the backyard — or just over 3 hours if you include charging time.

If I'm paying attention, I can catch it right after it finishes the backyard and manually redirect it to the front yard. From there, it tackles the rest of the lawn and returns to the dock on its own, completely finished in roughly an hour and forty-five minutes.

As for how good of a job it does at cutting grass, for the first few sessions it'd leave little rows of grass between each pass with the default cutting direction setting. However, after switching the cutting direction to traceless, which means each time the S4 cuts it changes direction, those missed rows have disappeared. If you’d prefer to have patterns cut in your yard, you can set the S4 to create items like a heart, a trophy, a star, or a soccer ball. It can also cut a pattern to represent numbers.

My lone complaint about the cutting performance of the S4 can be said about any of the robot lawnmowers I've owned — none of them can cut the edge of the yard. For the S4, it has a cutting width of 7 inches, but there's 4.3 inches between the edge of the lawnmower's housing and the blades. So, no matter how close you get the map to the edge of your grass, there's always going to be a small section of grass it just can't cut.

It's a fair trade, I guess. Instead of having to bribe my son to mow the yard maybe once every two weeks, my yards are mowed multiple times a week.

Sunseeker S4 review: Storage & maintenance

The S4's charging station serves as the main storage area for the robot when not in use. Along with charging it, there's an overhang to protect the top of the S4, complete with a brush to keep the LiDAR bubble clean. If you want more protection, Sunseeker sells a Sunproof Garage that extends the protection to the entire lawnmower.

During the winter months — and for that matter if you're expecting a lot of rain — I'd recommend removing the S4 from the dock and moving it indoors. During my testing, I had a rainstorm come through that dumped two inches of rain on us in an hour. It took me a couple of days to notice the S4 hadn't run on its set schedule, and upon further inspection I realized it wasn't even turning on.

I turned it upside down, removed the battery and let it dry out for a day, after which it came back to life. I have no idea how high the water got in my yard, but I do know there was standing water most of the night.

It's a good reminder that even though the S4 has an IPX6 waterproof rating, it's still susceptible to the elements.

As for routine maintenance on the S4, the Sunseeker app has a device maintenance menu that tracks when you should replace the blades (after 120 hours of use) and when you should wash the cutting disc (after 60 hours of use).

Otherwise, keeping the front camera and the LiDAR bubble clean are the only things you need to worry about.

Sunseeker S4 review: Verdict

This was my first time using a Sunseeker robot lawnmower, and it did not disappoint. My yard hasn't consistently looked this good in years. The Sunseeker S4 was easy to set up, forgoing the need to install a dedicated GPS antenna like the EcoFlow Blade, or bury a guide wire like previous Husqvarna mowers I've used.

Battery life is good enough for its 0.25-acre limit, and after fine-tuning the settings you'll get a clean cut every time.

Well, except for the edges. Make sure to keep a trimmer handy.

As summer arrives, there’s something satisfying about getting the lawnmower out for a weekly cut. I find the familiar hum of the mowers across my neighborhood almost comforting and a signal that summer gardening season is in full swing.

The smell of freshly mown grass is a scent we associate with summer, but the question for gardeners is, do you leave your clippings on your lawn or remove them after each cut?

With the help of a lawn care expert, I look at what you should do with your lawn clippings and why.

The lawn clipping debate: Ditch or leave?

I remember my dad painfully raking up every last lawn clipping each time his mower made an appearance, but he could have saved himself the time and effort by leaving the clippings where they lay. Because left in situ, they become the ultimate fertilizer.

If your lawn is small, removing the clippings doesn’t require much effort, but for those with a large lawn, it’s more exhausting, especially in the summer heat. Luckily, the good news is you don’t need to rake up your clippings to have the perfect lawn, because there’s a benefit to leaving them be.

Why you shouldn't ditch your lawn clippings

If your lawn clippings are short and dry, there’s an advantage to leaving them on your lawn, as they act as a mulch. Marc Kerr, co-founder with Luke Taylor, at So & Mo, explains, “Mulching involves leaving finely chopped clippings on the lawn to decompose naturally. This acts as a natural fertilizer, returning essential nutrients like nitrogen to the soil and helping to retain moisture.”

Apart from helping your lawn, it has other benefits too. “Mulching saves time and effort, as you won’t need to stop mowing to empty a bag or worry about disposal. It’s also eco-friendly, keeping organic material on site and reducing waste,” Kerr adds.

It won’t look so neat

The only downside is that the clippings won’t create a perfectly manicured lawn, and, under certain conditions, they can harm your lawn. “Mulching may not provide the pristine look collecting clippings does, and if the grass is wet or too long, clippings can clump together, potentially smothering the grass beneath,” says Kerr.

Just as there’s a perfect time to water your lawn, Kerr has clear guidance on how to use clippings. “Mulching is most effective when mowing is done regularly and you keep the grass at an ideal length, so when you mow, there isn’t much waste.”

How to decide which path to take?

Whether you leave your grass clippings or clear them up depends on your priorities. Kerr explains, “If you’re seeking a tidy, weed-free appearance or have a composting system in place, collecting clippings might be your best bet. If you prefer a low-maintenance, sustainable approach that boosts your lawn’s health, mulch is the better option.”

When to remove grass clippings from your lawn

Weeds are common in all gardens, especially dandelions, crabgrass and bindweed. However, using the clippings as a mulch where weeds are prominent will spread the seeds and make the situation worse.

In this scenario, Kerr says boxing and disposing of the clippings is best. The same applies if your lawn is long, as you may not be able to see the hidden weeds beneath the tall grass.

The low-maintenance alternative

Of course, you don’t have to spend your weekends pushing a heavy mower to keep your lawn tidy. A robot lawnmower will take over the chore, giving you time to sit back and enjoy your yard. Although if you’re like me, you’ll find another job to do!

The benefits go beyond just saving effort. Instead of going for a weekly chop, a robot lawnmower will cut your lawn between 3 and 4 times a week. And rather than removing long blades, a robot mower will cut a fraction during each sweep, leaving the minute clippings behind to act as a fertilizer for a healthy lawn.

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Dull mower blades are the most overlooked cause of an unhealthy lawn. Instead of cutting grass cleanly, dull blades tear and shred grass blades, leaving ragged edges that turn brown, invite disease, and stress roots.

Sharp mower blades can make all the difference between a pristine lawn and a damaged one. Sharpening your lawn mower blades takes about 30 minutes, requires no professional help, and saves you money on premature blade replacements.

Whether you're using a metal file or an angle grinder, this step-by-step guide covers exactly how to sharpen your mower blade safely, at the right angle, and correctly balanced, so your grass stays healthy all season long.

How often should I sharpen my lawn mower blade? 

Sharpen your lawn mower blades after every 25 hours of mowing, which is roughly twice per season for regular users.

Beyond the schedule, torn or ragged grass edges after cutting, a lawn that yellows a day or two after mowing, or visible nicks on the blade are all signs it needs attention sooner. Hitting a rock, stick, or hard object while mowing warrants an immediate inspection too.

Always sharpen before storing your mower for winter. It prevents corrosion and means the mower is ready to go the moment spring arrives.

Not every dull blade is worth sharpening. Cracks or fractures anywhere on the blade, a severe bend that sharpening won't correct, or metal worn so thin from repeated sharpening that it won't hold an edge — these are all signs replacement is the right move.

Once you've sharpened your mower blades and mown your lawn, it’s worth leaving the grass clippings on your lawn. They’ll act as a natural mulch and fertilizer.

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For years — nay, decades — I've spent most weekends standing on my lawn, yanking on my mower's pull cord like I was trying to wrestle a chainsaw into submission. It was exhausting. Eventually, I just snapped — I could no longer abide the oil leaks, the spluttering, the stopping for no reason and refusing to start up again. It seriously felt like the machine was personally offended by doing the one thing that justifies its existence. I'm talking years and years of constant maintenance for very little reward.

So, yeah. I ditched it. Hasta la vista, you piece of junk.

I decided to go electric, and now I'm kicking myself for waiting this long. The very first time I held down the start button and pulled the bail bar, there was just a quiet whirr. No fumes. No failed starts. It simply worked. Within seconds, I was gliding across the lawn with very little effort (largely due to my model being self-propelled). And when I was done, I could go back inside without smelling like a servo forecourt.

Mowing feels like less of a chore

To me, the change feels less like a simple upgrade and more like breaking free from a toxic relationship. Sure, my front and back yards haven't changed, but the chore itself? Suddenly, it’s completely effortless.

The biggest change was no longer dealing with oil or petrol. The Ryobi model I bought came with a 36V 6.0Ah rechargeable lithium battery, and all I have to do is slot it into place and the lawn mower is ready to go.

On a full charge, that battery gives me about 35 minutes of mowing in Smart mode, though switching to Eco mode can stretch that time. There’s also a Power mode for tackling really dense or tall grass, but it drains the battery faster. Honestly, I haven’t come across any grass that Smart mode couldn’t handle with ease.

Swapping petrol power for batteries

I also have an extra 4.0Ah battery that came with the matching Ryobi line trimmer I bought at the same time, and it fits perfectly into the second battery slot on my mower, adding about 25 more minutes of runtime. Even if you don’t go for an electric line trimmer or edger (or both, like my model with its switchable heads), I still strongly suggest having a second battery.

The only prep needed is making sure the batteries are fully charged before mowing, and that's honestly the only downside I've come across in the switch to a battery-powered mower. Each battery takes roughly twice the time to charge as it does to use, which works out to around 70 minutes for the 6.0Ah battery and 50 minutes for the 4.0Ah battery.

Personally, I’d much prefer that to having to stop several times during a mowing session to refill my previous mower’s four-stroke engine with petrol, or worse, stopping to mix precise amounts of oil into a separate petrol can before fueling up the old two-stroke mower I had prior.

Managing battery usage

Of course, long charging times is only really an issue if you have particularly large front and back yards. Mine are fairly spacious, and I’ve noticed I can finish mowing the larger front yard — being on a corner, I have quite a bit of street-facing grass along the side of the house — with at least one light still showing on my 6.0Ah battery’s four-light indicator. The same goes for my medium-sized backyard when using the 4.0Ah battery.

The key is to start charging your depleted battery right after switching to a fully charged one if you plan to keep mowing. By the time the second battery runs out, the first should have a decent charge again. There's also the option of purchasing additional batteries, though I don't think that will be necessary for the average Aussie household.

Still, these runtimes are all specific to my mower and its batteries. There are many battery-powered mowers available, some of which may even be better suited to your lawn's layout and size. Here are some of the top models available on Amazon right now, listed by price. Simply click through to any model to read more about its capabilities.

Top electric mowers on Amazon

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Gardening does not make for an easy life, especially if you like to have a perfect lawn. Apart from giving your lawn a regular mow, it needs constant care and attention. From reseeding your lawn when it becomes patchy, to aerating and scarifying your prized patch. It’s a never-ending chore to keep it looking lush.

However, more gardeners are looking at alternatives to the perfectly manicured lawn and considering a ‘lazy lawn' instead. I was so intrigued that I tried it out myself and was surprised at the results. To help you decided whether it's right for you, I've called on the expertise of a lawn care expert.

What is a lazy lawn?

Rather than assuming that a ‘lazy lawn' is a traditional lawn left to defend for itself, this is not the case. Although No Mow May means leaving your lawn uncut for a month to encourage wildlife and pollinators into your yard, a ‘lazy lawn’ can be left all year round, without much care, apart from a few mows.

A ‘lazy lawn’ is composed of low-growing, low-maintenance grass and groundcover which is often drought-resistant. And apart from being easy to maintain, it acts as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional grass, attracting butterflies and pollinators.

Angelika Zaber, lawn care and gardening expert at Online Turf, says that Irish moss, creeping clover, or creeping thyme are ideal plants for a ‘lazy lawn’, while a low-maintenance grass variety, such as rye grass, can also cut down your workload.

Zaber also adds, "A lot of ground covers also do not need much fertilization to thrive. This is especially true for clover, which is known for its ability to convert nitrogen from the air and then adding it to the soil."

Tread carefully

But beware. Zaber says that many ground-cover lawns can only handle light foot traffic, so they might not be the best choice if you have kids who love to run around. In this instance, she recommends rye grass. "It establishes quickly, is extremely durable, and has elements of pest and disease resistance built in, requiring fewer treatments than many other grass types to keep it looking its best. As a result, it will save you both money and time in the long run."

How to start a lazy lawn

Although a lazy lawn won’t need much work once it is established, you will need to put in some grass to get it off to the best start.

Firstly, you’ll need to prepare the soil. “Start by removing any weeds, so that they don’t compete with the new plants, along with other debris,” says Zaber. “Then, you may need to turn the soil to a depth of 6 inches, and then clear any more debris again.”

If your soil is poor or you’re struggling to turn it, she recommends adding some topsoil. Once this stage is complete, rake the soil in different directions until it’s smooth and level. She then says, “Slowly walk heel-to-toe to spot any soft patches, then rake again.”

You are now ready to sow or lay your lazy lawn. If you are looking to create a ‘lazy lawn’ on a budget, I’d recommend choosing seed over laying a lawn. The impact won’t be quite so instant, but with patience, it won’t be long until you can enjoy your new lawn.

What plants make a great 'lazy lawn'

“Creeping thyme and Irish moss are a great choice for grass lawn alternatives,” says Zaber, although she adds, “If you want a more traditional lawn, but with less maintenance, then turf or a seed mix with a high percentage of rye grass in it is going to be the perfect choice.”

However, the choice is endless; you could also opt for other low-growing plants such as clover, creeping jenny or chamomile. Here we take a look at three plants that are perfect for a 'lazy lawn'.

Creeping thyme

What makes creeping thyme a good choice? “It’s often used as a ground cover due to its ability to spread quickly. At the same time, it is also drought-tolerant, thrives in shallow soil, and does well at suppressing weeds while attracting beneficial pollinators to your garden,” explains Zaber.

Creeping thyme is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9, and it needs full sun and a well-drained soil. Although it won’t need as much water as a traditional lawn, Zaber recommends watering it regularly during dry spells, until it’s established.

It will the benefit from a light prune in late fall and early spring, “this will improve its overall appearance and stop it from becoming too woody,” she says.

Irish moss

Irish moss is an alternative to creeping thyme that grows well in USDA zones 4-8, although Zaber says, “It's not actually moss, but a low-growing perennial plant that works well as ground cover.”

“To plant Irish moss, wait until the frosty temperatures have passed and then choose a spot that receives full sun or partial shade,” explains Zaber. “Simply sprinkle the seeds around the area and then wait 2-3 weeks for them to germinate.”

But don’t be tempted to cover the seeds, as Zaber says they need to be exposed to sunlight, and kept moist too.

Rye grass

For a tougher alternative, rye grass is a good choice. It's suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-8 and does best in a sunny area, with Zaber adding that it can tolerate some shade.

She suggests watering regularly until the grass is established and then water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep roots.

I can also benefit from fertilizer in the spring and fall to help it recover from the winter and prepare for it. And to gain a "lush, thick turf effect", Zaber recommends mowing it frequently.

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It’s no secret that dogs can wreak havoc on a lawn and turn what could potentially be a perfect patch into an expanse of grass dotted with urine spots and unsightly holes.

And while dogs will do what dogs do, it would be unfair to keep them off your lawn and curtail their chance to exercise and expend energy.

However, dogs have two bad habits that jeopardize your lawn’s chance of success. They will happily urinate on your grass and dig holes when in an excited frenzy.

To help you repair your lawn after dog damage and to find preventative measures to lessen the destruction, I’ve called on lawn care pros to reveal their secrets. And it appears that even if you are a dog owner, you can have a lawn to be proud of.

Dog urine is the worst offender

The first thing your dog is likely to do when it runs out onto your lawn is to have a wee. And as they are creatures of habit, that are likely to have a favorite spot. So, if you're lucky, they won’t decimate your whole expanse of grass. But wherever they urinate, they leave a mark, and it's what's in the urine that damages the lawn.

“Dog urine is high in nitrogen, which can scorch grass. The nitrogen content isn’t too dissimilar from bleach or ammonia and it leaves behind a lighter patch as if the lawn has been burned,” explains Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith. “And similarly with bleach, it’s the concentration of your dog’s wee that causes the issue.”

You may be wondering why the nitrogen in dogs’ urine damages grass when nitrogen is used as a lawn fertilizer. The problem lies when it is sprayed in a concentrated area. In this scenario, Davis says it can kill off your grass in days.

This concentration of nitrogen results in another problem, too. “It can also cause grass around it to grow faster, so you end up with uneven growth,” he adds.

The damage caused by dog urine is known as ‘dog spot’, but Jason McCausland, national technical coordinator at Weed Man, says it can be confused with other damage often caused by road salt or fertilizer spills, and says, “you can identify a dog spot by the margin of dark green, rapidly growing grass surrounding a bright yellow patch of dying grass.”

The size of the spots will also vary depending on whether your dog is male or female. Iryna Smyrnova, vet at Meowoff, says, “Due to the nature of how females and males urinate, female dogs and dogs that consistently urinate in one location will likely produce a larger circular ‘dead zone’.”

How to treat urine burn

To reduce the damage to your lawn, you have to act fast to prevent urine burn. Dilution is key. “Always water the area that your dog has urinated on straight away. This will dilute the nitrogen and salts, preventing fertilizer-burn-like damage to your lawn,” recommends Angelika Zaber, lawncare specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

Having a full watering can ready to go, or a hose close at hand, are cheap and quick tactics that can help reduce the problem.

If this is difficult to do, or you never get there in time, she recommends training your dog to urinate elsewhere in your yard where there isn’t any grass.

Hilary Thompson, horticultural and communications director at Super-Sod & Soil, has personal experience of this issue. She trained her new dog to urinate in a mulched area by leading her there and praising her when she peed on the leaves. You might also want to try a gravel bed, or, if this method doesn’t work for you, install a barrier, such as a fence.

Dilute and then reseed

Once you’ve diluted the nitrogen in your grass, you may also need to reseed your lawn to help it become thick and healthy once more. Gene Caballero, cofounder at GreenPal, then says that before scattering the lawn seed, you’ll need to rake out the dead grass and loosen the soil, then water it deeply and apply the seed, before covering it with topsoil.

Diving in to dog holes

Aside from your pet using your lawn as a toilet, your four-legged friend is highly likely to get the zoomies from time to time. The result? A calmer dog, after it’s spun around in circles, chasing its tail, but a distressed lawn, and one that’s likely to include holes.

Why do dogs dig holes in lawns? According to Zaber, most of the time it’s because they are bored or anxious. However, this is not necessarily the case, as Smyyrnova adds it can also be due to the breed, especially if it was originally bred for hunting or digging.

To help prevent your dog from digging up your lawn, Zaber says, “Make sure that they receive a lot of stimulation. This can include long walks, interactive toys, and mental stimulation toys, such as puzzles.”

Aside from keeping your dog active, she also recommends teaching your dog to only dig in one spot, so that they leave the rest of your lawn alone. And she adds, “If these methods do not work, you can always install a chicken wire just below the soil, as it will feel uncomfortable on their paws.”

How to fix holes in your lawn

This method is similar to when reseeding spots where your dog has urinated, but this time you’ll need to fill in the hole before adding the seed.

Begin to fill the hole in your lawn with topsoil, and ensure it is level with the ground. Zaber suggests giving it some water to allow it to settle, then adding more topsoil if needed.

Once you are happy with the ground level, add your grass seed and cover it with a thin layer of topsoil. “This will reduce the chances of them being blown away or eaten by birds,” says Zaber.

McCausland also advises sectioning off this area of your lawn for a few weeks while the seeds germinate, and to prevent your dog from digging fresh holes.

For instant results, you may prefer to lay new turf, but do fill in the hole before laying it to ensure it stays level.

The best type of grass for pet owners

Even though your dog may be your best friend, it’s hard not to get annoyed when it causes chaos to your lawn, and this problem is intensified if there are two or more partners in crime.

Although you can step in to undo some of the damage or train your dog to urinate or dig holes elsewhere in your yard, there is another way to reduce the distress. The type of grass you choose will make a difference.

“Not all lawns are built the same. Starting with a grass seed that is more durable will help it withstand the challenges your furry friend presents,” says Davis.

He also adds that varieties that are strong and quick to establish suit heavily used gardens that often have children and pets playing in them.

So what does he suggest if you own a dog? "Perennial ryegrass and fescue are a great combination. Ryegrass is durable and will grow quickly, while fescue produces a finer-leaved grass that will provide a lush, green lawn.”

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Gaining a perfect lawn isn’t just about regular mowing, weeding, aerating and plenty more besides; it’s about the finishing touches that give it the edge.

While you spend time tackling dandelions and crabgrass, removing thatch and fertilizing your lawn, there’s one task that often gets forgotten. The secret to a beautiful lawn is neat edges, with a clean line defining the lawn and its borders.

This is where the 3-inch lawncare rule comes to play. What's more, as garden season begins to pick up and our lawns move out of dormancy, May is the ideal month to get your lawn in shape.

Defining the 3-inch lawn edging rule

This method involves creating a clean, crisp vertical edge with a sharp drop that separates your grass from the soil in your borders. In simple terms, it involves making a narrow 3-inch trench between the two areas.

The vertical cut is deep enough to prevent grass from creeping over into your borders, as the 3-inch cut should sever most grass roots. It also creates a small gap between the turf and the soil that casts a shadow, further defining the space.

While many gardeners, myself included, turn to a manual edging tool or an electric lawn edger, the 3-inch rule requires a sharp spade, such as Fiskars Long-Handled Digging Shovel, $29 at Home Depot. It’s this simple tool that can help define the boundary, and give the perfect finish to your lush lawn.

How to achieve the 3-inch edge

1. Mark out a clear line to follow on the edge of your lawn. You could use a rope or chalk.

2. Take a sharp spade and cut 3 inches into your turf, keeping the blade straight for a vertical cut.

3. Continue working along the border to form a neat line that separates the lawn from your beds.

4. Now work back along your vertical line and position your spade at a slight angle back towards your lawn. Remove a narrow edge of soil from beneath the turf. This technique should prevent the grass from growing back into the bed.

5. Tidy up any loose soil and grass trimmings, then stand back and enjoy your hard work.

How to maintain a neat lawn edge

After each mow, go along the edge of your lawn with some long-handled edging shears, such as Fiskars Long Handle Swivel Grass Shears, $34 at Home Depot. Use the shears to remove the edges that your lawnmower didn’t reach. Keep a check on the neatness of the vertical edge and trench, and recut the edge when needed.

You might also be interested in how to transform your backyard for less this summer — 5 garden tools I recommend under $25.

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Robot lawnmowers are not only becoming less expensive, but they’re also getting a lot simpler to use. The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is a prime example. This model can be found for around $1,000, and was one of the easiest models I’ve yet installed on my lawn.

While you have to temper some expectations in terms of its performance — it’s rated to just 1/4 acre — it does its job well. And, unlike most other robot lawnmowers, you can use the Landroid’s battery with other Worx power tools. I used the Worx Landroid on my yard for several weeks to see how it would perform. Here’s what I liked and didn’t like about this robot lawnmower.

Price and availability

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud first went on sale in February 2026. Worx makes three versions: the WR310, which can cover up to 1/4 acre, is $1,199; the WR320, which can handle up to 1/2 an acre is $1,799, and the WR340, good for a full acre, is $2,299.

However, I’ve seen all models for sale; for example, the WR310 was available for $999 at the time of this writing.

What I liked

Easy setup

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud is part of the latest generation of robot lawnmowers, and was the easiest to set up of all the models I tested. No more installing boundary wires, or even a separate tower for the lawnmower to get a GPS signal. Now, everything is contained in the lawnmower itself, so all you need to do is set up its charging station. It’s almost as easy as setting up one of the best robot vacuums.

After that (and some firmware updates), I sent the Landroid out into my yard to start mowing. It effortlessly mapped my yard without any intervention on my behalf. The company also provides a small patterned temporary border, which you can set up around flower beds so that the robot knows to avoid them during its initial scan.

It’s a strong mower

Worx says that the model I tested can tackle slopes of up to 17º (a 30% grade). I first tried the Landroid on my front yard, which has about a 20- to 30º slope, and while it did ok in the middle of the lawn, it struggled around the periphery, where it had trouble turning and then getting back up the yard. Its large wheels would just spin in place, digging holes in the dirt. (Worx does make a 4WD mower, which can handle grades of up to 40%.

However, it had no trouble in my much flatter back yard, and easily drove over divots, where the Sunseeker X3 Plus had trouble when I tested it last year. I also created a small ramp, and raised it up to 17º, and the Worx was able to drive up with no problems.

You can also program the Landroid to mow in several patterns, such as diagonal lines, a checkerboard, or a diamond; I also liked that, after mowing the bulk of the yard, it then went and trimmed all of the edges. I still had to go and tidy up things with a string trimmer, but it was nice to see the mower pay attention to this detail.

Good object recognition

The Landroid’s vision system did an above-average job at navigating obstacles, though it wasn’t entirely consistent. For example, it would deftly maneuver around tennis balls, jump ropes, and other kids' toys left in the yard, but then would drive over my dog's bone without a thought. It also made a nasty grating sound as the mower’s blades whacked it when doing so. It’s a good thing the blades are easy to replace.

Unlike some other robot lawnmowers I tested, such as the Sunseeker X3 Plus I tested last year, the Worx app doesn’t tell you if there’s a particular object in your yard; it just shows up on the map as an unmowed area. It would be nice to be able to see just what it avoided.

What I didn’t like

Polarizing Design

I'll admit, this is a bit of a nitpick, but the Vision Cloud’s design can best be described as utilitarian. It’s very angular, with all sorts of bumps and protrusions for the cutting deck, RTK system, cameras, and battery compartment. The mower’s display is functional — it looks like an old, oversized digital alarm clock, which you control using membrane-style buttons below. It gets the job done, but it’s not going to win any beauty contests.

Apart from aesthetics, all of the Landroid’s nooks and crannies are havens for errant bits of pollen, grass clippings, and more — especially around the battery compartment. I had to frequently brush it clear of debris. Fortunately, the compartment's rim is raised, and has a gasket to seal it from the elements.

Limited battery life

One of the unique things about the Landroid is that it has a removable battery, which you can use in other Worx products. If you’re going to buy cordless power tools, it’s best to stick to a single system. So, when you store the mower for the winter, you can still make use of its battery in the Worx power snow shovel, for instance.

However, the capacity of the 4Ah battery is pretty small. After mowing my 0.02-acre yard (about 870 square feet), its battery life had dropped to 36%. So, if you have a larger lawn, it may take the Landroid a few passes to cover everything.

Bottom Line

If you have a smallish lawn and don’t want to be hassled with mowing it, the Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is definitely worth a look, especially if you have other Worx battery-powered products. The mower was easy to set up, did a pretty good job at avoiding objects in the yard, and its battery can be used in other Worx power tools.

We haven’t tested them yet, but in the same price bracket as the Worx is the Mammotion Yuka mini and the Segway Navimow i2 AWD Robotic Lawn Mower. Both offer a similar setup process and can cover the same amount of area, but can theoretically handle steeper grades of 45% (24°).

Robot lawnmowers still aren’t cheap compared to traditional mowers — you can get a battery-powered push mower for a third of the price — but they are becoming more affordable, and more capable than ever.

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Worried you need to spend big dollars for a luscious lawn to ensure you are not ‘lawn shamed’ by your neighbors? Think again.

The reality is you can have a luscious lawn on a budget without spending out on expensive tools and lawn feed. Here, I delve into 7 ways you can have a stunning lawn for less, but be prepared to put in some work.

1. Weed it

One element that lets all lawns down is a patch full of weeds. But they really don’t need to ruin your lawn. Whether you struggle with dandelions or crabgrass. The ideal time to capture them is when they are young. This will help prevent seeds from spreading, and the problem of pulling up part of your lawn with the weed.

Dandelions have deep tap roots, which means you’re going to have to delve a bit deeper than some other weeds to remove them, but a simple tool should help you out. If you don’t already have one lurking in your garden shed, I recommend buying a simple dandelion weeder, like Linatikou’s Weed Puller Tool, $8 at Amazon.

However, you could also opt for a hori hori knife, which can be used elsewhere in the garden. Yang’s Hori Hori Garden Knife is $8 at Amazon, with a 50% discount.

Don't wait any longer, though, to get weeding. Spring is the ideal time to dig out those weeds before they flower and set seed.

2. Promote thick and strong growth

Another way to prevent weeds, such as dandelions and crabgrass, is to keep your lawn a little longer than usual. Keeping your lawn about 2 to 3 inches in length will help keep the soil cool, reduce the risk of seed germination, and weed growth.

When grass is on the short side, more sunlight reaches the soil, creating the perfect conditions for weed germination.

Apart from managing weeds, experts advise following the one-third rule when mowing. Rather than mowing your lawn too short, remove only one-third of its height. This prevents the grass from becoming stressed and encourages denser, more luscious growth.

3. Fill in bare patches

If you’ve removed any weeds or spotted other bare patches, it’s simple to fill in the gaps. I recommend using this quick 5-minute fix for a patch-free lawn.

Take a tool, such as a garden trowel or a hori hori knife, and score the soil to disturb the surface. Give it a light watering and then scatter some grass seeds on top, before giving it a light covering with top soil. If you’re anything like me, you should be able to find everything you need in your garden shed.

4. Leave your grass clippings

To add valuable nutrients to your lawn, don’t clear up your grass clippings. Instead of raking them up, leave them to break down and release nutrients — such as phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium — back into the soil. This simple hack will save you from buying lawn feeds.

Rather than leaving the grass clippings where they land, it’s best to rake them over to avoid leaving clumps of clippings that may smother your lawn. And if they are wet, dry them out before spreading them over your lawn. While they are in place, they’ll also help to prevent weeds from emerging.

Apart from prompting strong growth, grass clippings are composed of 85% water, and once they break down, they release moisture back into the soil. Although your lawn will still benefit from water, especially when the weather is dry, it will reduce the amount of time needed for watering.

5. Remove obstructions

Your lawn may not be growing to its full potential if it is overshadowed by shrubs and trees. If your grass doesn’t get enough sunlight, it won’t be able to photosynthesize as effectively, resulting in weaker growth.

I notice this common problem around the edges of my lawn, where trees and shrubs overhang and take away precious sunlight.

The easiest way to solve these issues is to either cut back branches with a pair of pruning shears to allow sunlight to shine through or dig up the underperforming area of grass and underplant it with shade-loving plants instead.

6. Edge your lawn

It’s surprising how a few minutes can make all the difference to your lawn. I find going round the edges with a lawn edging tool is one of the quickest ways to smarten up its overall look.If you don’t already own an edging tool, ask your friendly neighbor if you can borrow one, or search online for free garden tools. You could try Craigslist’s free section or FreeCycle. Other places to search include Buy Nothing groups on Facebook, community gardens and tool-lending programs, such as a local library or municipal office.

7. Make a homemade fertilizer

Save your spent coffee grounds and create your own homemade organic lawn fertilizer. Coffee grounds contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which help promote healthy grass growth. It acts as a slow-release fertilizer, providing sustained nutrients for your lawn.

You can add coffee grounds to your lawn at any point during the growing season. It’s best to let them dry out before scattering them, and them spread them about one cup to one square yard. Try to cover your lawn as evenly as possible to avoid the grinds landing in clumps — using a rake should help.

If you have a compost pile, you can also add spent coffee grinds into the mix, and apply this directly as a top dressing to your lawn.

There are plenty of other ways that coffee grounds can be used in you yard, including helping hydrangeas develop deep blue blooms.

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With the warmer temperatures, your lawn has come out of dormancy and will need regular mowing. And although it’s tempting to get outside in the fresh air and trim those green blades back, you could be unintentionally ruining your prized patch.

Instead of being proud of a beautiful, lush and healthy-looking lawn, you could be making a big lawncare mistake and mowing your lawn too much or too little. What's more, it's a budget-friendly lawn-care hack that won't cost you a dime.

Why over-mowing is bad for your lawn

“Over-mowing puts your lawn under real stress. When too much of the blade is removed at once, the grass loses a large portion of the surface it uses to produce energy,” explains Sarah Bendrick, landscape contractor, TV personality and spokesperson at STIHL. “That weakens the plant and slows down both top growth and root development.”

If you cut your grass too short, your lawn won’t react favorably, and you’ll often see browning, thinning, and patchy areas. She also adds that it will become susceptible to weeds, disease, and drought.

What happens if you don’t mow enough?

Despite the problems caused by over-mowing your lawn, leaving it too long between cuts can also upset the balance.

“The grass can grow tall and uneven, and the lower portions get shaded out and start to thin,” says Bendrick.

“When you finally mow, you usually end up taking off too much at once, which shocks the lawn and can leave it looking brown and stressed. It can also produce heavy clippings that sit on top of the lawn, blocking sunlight and airflow.”

It seems there’s a fine line between getting the cut just right and achieving the Godilocks moment.

Will it cause long-term damage to your lawn?

Luckily, Bendrick shares that in most cases, the damage starts as short-term stress. “A healthy lawn can bounce back if you correct your mowing habits quickly.”

But if you continue to mow your lawn too often or not enough, it can turn into a long-term problem. “You may end up with weaker roots, thinner turf, and a lawn that struggles with weeds, pests, and disease throughout the season.”

How to fix an over-mown lawn

The best way to correct an over-mown lawn is to be patient and slow things down. Bendrick suggests, “Raise your mower height and follow the one-third rule, only removing a small portion of the blade with each cut. Give the grass time to rebuild its strength between mows.”

Apart from adjusting how you mow your lawn, Bendrick says that your lawn will benefit from consistent watering and a light feed.

What’s more, removing debris and keeping the edges of your lawn tidy will also improve air flow and overall health.

How to care for an overgrown lawn

Just like when dealing with a lawn that’s been cut too much, you also need to exercise patience when dealing with long blades.

Instead of mowing the grass short in one go, Bendrick says you should bring the height down in stages. “Start with a higher mower setting and gradually lower it over a series of cuts, always sticking to the one-third rule. This prevents shock and reduces the risk of browning.”

Once you’ve mown your lawn, she suggests removing the clippings if they are heavy, or raking them over, so they don’t smother the grass below.

How often should you mow your lawn?

“Mowing frequency is less about the calendar and more about how fast your lawn is growing,” says Bendrick.

There are three elements that count — weather, rainfall, and grass type. But as a general rule she says most lawns do well when maintained around 2.5 to 3 inches in height, though that can vary by species.

“A good rule is to mow before the grass gets excessively tall, rather than waiting until it becomes overgrown. During peak growing periods, that often means mowing about once a week, and less often when growth slows,” she explains.

What adjustments can you make to encourage a thriving lawn?

A strong lawn doesn’t happen overnight. Bendrick says it comes from consistent, thoughtful care. Here she shares her top four tips for a thriving lawn.

1. Keep your mower blades sharp so you are cutting cleanly rather than tearing the grass.

2. Mow at the proper height for your grass type and avoid removing too much at once.

3. Water deeply but not too frequently to encourage deeper roots.

4. Seasonal fertilization, along with practices like aeration and overseeding, can help keep the lawn dense and resilient.

By staying on top of these four basic lawn care tasks, Bendrick says your lawn should be better equipped to handle stress and maintain a healthy, even appearance.

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With summer fast approaching, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy, especially if you're hosting backyard gatherings.

And while you might have taken steps to prepare your lawn during the winter months, the cold snap can affect the growth of your grass. This is because turfgrass usually goes into a dormant state in order to conserve energy and survive winter temperatures. This essential process effectively halts growth until the weather becomes warmer.

But if you want to ensure a healthy, greener lawn just in time for summer, you'll need to do this one critical gardening task in May. In fact, doing this can make all the difference to the overall appearance of your lawn. So what is this key job?

Don't forget to scarify your lawn in May

Essentially, scarification involves tearing up the top layer of soil to remove dead grass, heavy thatch, moss, and other debris that have built up on your lawn. This is similar to the process of dethatching, that aims to remove the thatch layer that builds up between the soil and the lower parts of the grass .

The key difference here is that scarifying is a more intense process that gets further deep into the ground, cutting grooves into the soil to remove moss and other build-up. This also allows adequate aeration to the soil.

And while a thin layer of thatch benefits grass, too much creates a barrier that prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots, effectively suffocating the lawn.

What’s more, this can cause your lawn to become spongy and prone to disease, ultimately ruining your lush, healthy grass.

Think of scarification as a deep cleansing process for your lawn. This allows the grass to "breathe" again, helping the spread of healthy development by allowing fresh air, water, and essential nutrients to enter the soil and be better absorbed.

May is a crucial time for your lawn, particularly if you have warm-season grasses.

After the dormant winter, the grass enters its growth phase, making it a critical time for the root zone to receive oxygen, water, and vital nutrients.

In addition, May is when the soil in your yard will have warmed enough to encourage active root development — making this the perfect opportunity to tend to your lawn and help it thrive. What’s more, if your lawn has been compacted with dead grass, thatch or other debris, it will be unable to absorb vital nutrients — preventing it from reaching its full potential.

How to scarify your lawn

To do this crucial job, you’ll need to have the right tools. Be sure to have the best gardening gloves, a lawn mower, a leaf rake, a scarifier (for larger lawns), or a springbok rake for smaller yards.

First, gardening experts advise watering your lawn a few days before scarifying. This is because watering the lawn prevents the soil from drying out, which can cause the turf to tear during the process. Next, you’ll need to lower your mower's cutting height to cut your grass short, aiming for a length of approximately 2-3cm. This allows for the blades to reach the debris properly without obstruction.

Use a scarifying tool or a springbok rake, depending on your lawn's size, to start removing heavy moss and thatch. Move the tool steadily across the lawn, allowing the blades or tines to lift the debris. For best results, it’s recommended to work in one direction, but if the thatch is particularly heavy, repeat the process at a slight angle.

Once you’ve finished, you’ll need to immediately collect the excess debris with a sturdy leaf rake. Try not to leave it on the lawn for too long, as this will block light, air, and nutrients — defeating the purpose.

Don’t forget to seed and feed the grass afterwards to give it a better chance to thrive. Spread grass seed over patches and apply a seasonal fertilizer to give it that healthy boost for the summer.

So if you want lush grass this season, you’d better get out and do this crucial job before it’s too late. For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's and 7 budget hacks for a stunning green lawn.

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A tired, uneven lawn overrun with weeds can be turned around. In most cases, the issue isn’t poor soil or bad grass — it’s a handful of common care habits that are easy to correct.

Mowing too low, watering little and often, and neglecting feeding routines all weaken turf over time. When grass is undernourished or stressed, it loses its ability to crowd out weeds, fight off disease, and keep that rich green appearance.

Noticeable recovery doesn’t require specialists or expensive treatments. With the right approach grass responds quickly, often within a few weeks. Focus on giving it what it actually needs, and the difference becomes clear.

Here are eleven practical tips that have the greatest impact.

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Everywhere I turn, I see people using robot vacuums, and although I’m perfectly happy with my Shark upright vacuum cleaner, it does make me think whether my next purchase will give me extra time to crash out on the couch.

What’s more, robots are also taking over outside in our yards. Instead of seeing your neighbors diligently mowing their lawns, you’re more likely to spot them sipping a cold drink while their robot lawnmower does all the hard work.

However, robot lawnmowers are a big investment. And despite their small stature, you can expect to pay at least $1,000 for a robot lawnmower, with Segway’s latest Navimow X4 Series setting you back at least $2,299 at Amazon.

You need to do some serious thinking before you invest in a lawnmower to make sure it can tackle your lawn. With this in mind, I approached lawn care experts to ask when your lawn isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

1. When a robot lawnmower isn't the best choice

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” says Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna. “Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, adds that it’s not just about awkward areas, “Robot mowers work best on reasonably even, well-defined grass areas. If your lawn is on the wild side, heavily obstructed or like a meadow, you’ll see the limitations of a robot mower quickly.”

2. Bumps can be a problem

Whether a robot lawnmower can handle a bumpy lawn will depend on the model and a few other factors.

“Most robot mowers can handle some minor bumps and slightly uneven ground," Davis said. "But if it’s properly lumpy, with ankle-rolling divots, you’ll end up with patchy cuts, scalping and a potentially stuck mower."

However, he does suggest that if your lawn is uneven, a layer of topsoil can help rectify the problem.

3. Steep slopes are a challenge

The same is true for sloping lawns; it depends on the mower's capabilities. While you can expect a standard robot lawn mower to handle inclines of 20-30%, according to Davis, others are designed to cut steeper lawns.

Caleca adds that Husqvarna’s 435 iQ series Automower is designed to handle up to a 70% slope, while the brand’s iQ models are rated for up to 45%.

However, Gene Caballero, co-founder at GreenPal, says you will pay for this functionality. “There are some mowers that are specifically designed for steeper grades, but they are very, very expensive and more for commercial use.”

And of course, it’s cutting capability also depends on the conditions. “If the grass is slightly damp, you run the risk of it slipping. Any edges on slopes can also cause problems for your mower,” says Davis.

4. You have a small lawn

If you have a small lawn, you might think it’s not worth investing in a robot lawnmower, and you are probably right. “Robot mowers are recommended for large lawns and grassed areas that take a lot of maintaining. If it takes you 5-10 minutes to mow your lawn, a robot is probably not needed,” says Davis.

Instead, he suggests a smarter splurge would be investing in a cordless mower.

However, it all depends on whether you want to give up mowing your lawn. If you don’t want to call on the help of a lawn mowing service, a robot lawnmower could be the best choice for you.

5. Your lawn is split into sections

If, like me, your lawn is split into sections with paths and gravel areas, you may be wondering whether a robot lawnmower can cope with the layout.

“Paths, patios and graveled areas can be tricky. While some robot mowers can handle multiple zones, you’d need to be very careful when you’re setting it up, using boundary wires or the mower’s mapping,” says Davis.

Issues such as gravel paths can also stop a mower or damage its blades if it continues across them. “There’s also a risk of stones being flung by the blades and causing nearby damage,” he adds.

However, if you have a completed layout and pathways between lawn sections, Davis says, “It is manageable but not seamless. If your lawn is fragmented, the time you spend setting the mower on the right track might take longer than just mowing the lawn yourself.”

Caleca explains that handling multiple zones and surfaces is an area where robotic mowing technology has advanced quickly. With this in mind, we can look forward to these challenges being overcome in the future.

6. Your dog has dug holes in your lawn

While small divots are usually not an issue, as they can be filled in, Davis says, “if your lawn resembles a minefield, it can cause problems when mowing.”

And if you have a playful dog that likes to bury its toys in your neatly mowed lawn, it could be too much of a challenge for a robot lawnmower.

Davis adds, “The robot’s wheels could get stuck, your cut could end up being uneven, but it could cause blade damage if there are any rocks dug up, before your mower cuts your lawn."

7. Your lawn has poor drainage and gets water-logged

The general advice among the lawn experts is to never mow a water-logged lawn with either a robot or a standard mower. Davis, says it’s especially important to avoid using a robot mower, as the wheels are likely to spin and cause ruts, the mower will get stuck, and it will result in a poor overall cutting performance.

However, Caleco says that robotic mowers can operate in wet grass, but extremely wet conditions will result in slipping or rutting, regardless of the brand.

Although he explains that some robotic mowers with advanced systems can operate during rainfall and can integrate with weather data to help automate those decisions and pause mowing until conditions improve.

How to improve your lawn’s drainage
Drainage in your lawn can be fixed by improving aeration and filling in uneven surfaces where water pools.

The final cut

Before you invest in a robot lawnmower, remember that not all lawns are the same. You need to consider your lawn’s size, its gradient and any challenges, such as split areas. Then, you can decide whether a robot lawnmower is the right solution for your yard, and if so, match one that’s compatible with your needs.

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Dandelions spread fast once they establish in your lawn. A single plant produces a white seed head containing hundreds of seeds that disperse with the slightest breeze, scattering across your yard and into neighbors' lawns. Within weeks, one dandelion becomes dozens.

The key to controlling dandelions is removing them before those seed heads form and spread. Once dandelions go to seed, they're extremely difficult to manage because their deep taproots regenerate even when you pull the visible plant. A small piece of root left in the soil grows back into a full plant.

Timing matters more than method when dealing with dandelions. Here are three natural ways to eliminate dandelions and how to keep them from coming back.