With intense heat and sparse rain, your biggest gardening dilemma right now is probably how to keep your lawn alive in a heatwave. And when your pristine, lush patch of green transforms into brittle yellow straw, your first response is most likely to panic-water it back to health.

Spotting a distressed lawn isn’t hard. Just looking at it change from a vibrant green to a blue-gray, then to yellow, before it enters dormancy to conserve water, is a clear indication that heat and lack of water have had a significant impact.

While you can always revive a scorched lawn after the damage is done, the smartest move is to take a proactive stance. Building deep drought resilience gives your grass every chance of survival before the next scorcher hits.

Here, lawn care experts share how to get your lawn prepared for another bout of heat.

Why lawns struggle during heatwaves

Firstly, it helps to understand what happens to a lawn when it’s heat-stressed. Much of its energy goes into coping with the heat, causing it to slow down and even enter dormancy. It also starts to lose water faster than it can obtain it.

But it's not over, as the energy gets directed to the roots to help them survive. Then, once the weather becomes milder, it will emerge from its dormant stage and turn green once more.

How to prepare your lawn for future heatwaves

1. Aerate

Aeration is one of the key ways to build resilience in your lawn, with Luke Taylor and Marc Kerr, founders of So & Mo, and authors of Lawns: An Uncomplicated Guide, sharing that “well-aerated lawns perform better under severe conditions of drought and waterlogging.”

So what does aeration involve, and do you need a special tool?

“Aeration is the process of creating lots of small holes, which act as channels of air all over your lawn,” explained Taylor and Kerr, adding, “It helps break down compacted soil and facilitates the penetration of water, oxygen and nutrients into the ground, which in turn increases the beneficial microbial environment and strengthens the root system,” they explain.

Aeration can be done using two methods: either using hollow tines to remove plugs of earth from the ground, or using solid tines, which push the soil down, compacting it below.

I favor using hollow tines to remove the soil, rather than compacting it further. You could try Yard Butler’s Manual Lawn Coring Aerator ($48 at Amazon), or, if you’d prefer to use a tool you already have, a garden fork will also do the job.

2. Ditch the fertilizer

Rather than adding extra nutrients to your lawn in a heatwave, Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, says it should be avoided.

“Fertilizer will scorch your grass in extreme heat and damage its root system. Your lawn is already trying to conserve water during a heatwave, so extra stress will only compound the damage,” Koenig explained.

Craig Elworthy, founder at Lawnbright, also advises against applying fertilizer, as it can further stress the lawn and cause disease. Instead, he recommends using a natural alternative that strengthens grass roots systems and improves drought resistance. He advises, “Consider applying liquid sea kelp or humic acid to help the lawn deal with heat stress.”

3. Get into the habit of deep watering

“It may be tempting to water your lawn for a short period each day, but these short, frequent waterings cause the grass to develop a shallow root system or lead to overwatering, which can cause disease,” explained Koenig.

And it’s this shallow root system that makes the turf vulnerable to burning out during periods of stress, such as heat and drought.

Instead, she advised, “If watering is needed in any season, prioritize long, deep, infrequent waterings. This will allow the water to get down deep into the root system, which encourages the deeper root growth needed to adequately store the nutrients and water it needs to survive high temperatures.”

The time of day you water your lawn will also affect how much water is absorbed and whether water droplets scorch and damage the grass. The best time of day is always in the early morning.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Want to keep your lawn alive in a heatwave? This clever landscaping trend could be the answer
• Don't let the heatwave destroy your plants — expert shares 3 top tips to do right now
• Why is my grass patchy after seeding? I asked the experts how to fix it

Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

With prolonged heatwaves and fears of drought, keeping your lawn lush and green becomes increasingly difficult as warm weather and dry conditions persist.

To help you deal with extreme summer weather without destroying your turf, I asked lawn care experts how to keep your lawn alive as temperatures rise.

How to tell if your lawn is heat stressed

Before you start treating your lawn for heat stress, you need to ensure it’s the temperature and lack of water that’s causing the problem.

It changes color
“When grass undergoes drought stress, it starts to wilt and turn blue, a bluish gray, as opposed to keeping its lush green color,” says Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

Craig Elworthy, founder at Lawnbright, agrees and says that detecting the grey or bluish tint is “your sign to get water on it now or it will likely begin to go dormant.”

Try the footprint test or screwdriver test
Another indication of water deficiency is the loss of resilience. “If you step on the grass and it leaves a footprint, it likely needs water,” says Koenig. “Under normal moisture conditions, the grass should spring back up instead of leaving traffic marks.”

If you’re still unsure, Koenig suggests trying the screwdriver test to check the soil’s moisture level. She says, “First, stick a screwdriver into the soil. This creates a small hole that will allow you to feel the soil about 3-4 inches down. If it’s hard to push the screwdriver in, it’s likely the soil is dry and in need of watering.”

If you haven’t got a screwdriver to hand, a soil probe or pocketknife will also do the trick.

What happens to your lawn when it’s heat-stressed?

“In a heatwave, your lawn is essentially running a marathon. It’s using all of its energy just to get through the intense heat,” says Elworthy. “This causes growth to slow down or even stop altogether.”

Roger May, PhD, director of operations support at TruGreen, adds, “During extreme temperatures, grass loses moisture faster than roots absorb it.”

When coupled with a lack of water, the lawn will enter dormancy, turning brown until both temperature and moisture conditions are more favorable.

However, grass dying from heat alone is rarer than you might think. Koenig explains that the grass is redirecting its stored resources straight to the roots to survive, and that it will “green up” when more moderate conditions return.

Which grass is better at coping with extreme heat?

Grasses are split into two groups — warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses are better equipped to withstand summer heatwaves, while cool-season grasses green up more quickly after winter. Your choice of grass should depend on the climate in your region.

“Bermuda grass and zoysia stand out as top performers for heat and drought in areas where warm-season grasses thrive,” says May. “These drought-resistant grasses stay vibrant while using less water and are recommended across very different hot climates — from the Western U.S. to Texas — because they tolerate scorching heat and dry spells while recovering quickly.”

So, what makes these grass types able to deal with heat and drought? “Their root systems develop to reach beyond a foot below the surface, tapping moisture reserves that shallow-rooted varieties can’t access,” explains May.

He also adds that thicker leaf cells and waxy coatings reduce moisture loss, and that some varieties can still function when soil temperatures exceed 100°F.

Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass, struggle in the heat. If you are planting a cool-season grass, Elworthy recommends choosing tall fescue. “The roots can extend deep, away from the sun’s harsh rays.”

What’s more, he adds that fescue requires less water and fertilizer than other grass types.

How to care for your lawn in a heatwave

When it comes to caring for your lawn in a heatwave, the best advice is less is more.

1. Raise the height of your lawnmower

“As the temperature rises, so should your lawn height,” says Koenig. “I recommend keeping cool-season grass 3 or 3.5 inches long in the summer, or up to 4 inches for tall fescue and perennial ryegrass. Warm-season grasses should be kept shorter, around 2 to 2.5 inches.”

So why should the grass be left longer in a heatwave? According to Koenig, cutting too low exposes more soil, and in the summer, this leads to more moisture loss. “If you keep your blades slightly taller, your lawn is more protected from heat stress and weeds. This small adjustment can significantly improve drought resilience,” she explains.

Top tip: Follow the one-third rule
When mowing your lawn during a heatwave, Koenig advises never to remove more than one-third of the leaf tissue or blade at a time, as it’s where the plant’s food production occurs.

2. Leave grass clippings on your lawn

Rather than removing the grass clippings to create a tidy lawn, Chrisie Handley, lawncare specialist at Online Turf, suggests leaving them in place to act as a natural mulch. “They shade the ground, reduce water loss, and deliver a natural nitrogen boost as they break down,” she says.

3. Water deeply

A light sprinkle of water isn’t going to help your lawn, as it will encourage a shallow root system, which is more likely to burn out.

Instead, Handley recommends watering deeply for an extended period of time to promote healthier, more stable root systems. “The stronger and more stable the plant, the better chance it has of surviving drought conditions in the future,” she explains.

Top tip: The best time of day to water
Your grass will also thank you for being watered in the morning, avoiding the midday heat and the subsequent evaporation before the water reaches the roots.

4. Avoid fertilizer

Although your lawn may look like it needs nutrients, applying fertilizer in a heatwave should be avoided. Koenig explains, “Fertilizer will scorch your grass in extreme heat and damage its root system. Your lawn is already trying to conserve water during a heatwave, so extra stress will only compound the damage.”

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• What is xeriscaping? How this clever landscaping trend can save your yard in a heatwave
• 9 drought-resistant plants that will thrive in your yard during the hot, dry summer
• Gardener reveals ‘centuries-old’ hack for keeping plants hydrated in the summer

Summer is here and it's time to get out into the garden. But if, like me, your outdoor space is perhaps looking slightly neglected and your lawn could do with a little TLC, then it's time to invest in a new lawn mower.

For this list I've pulled together a selection of high quality mowers to suit a range of budgets and preferences. There are cordless electric mowers, hand-pushed manual models, and even robot mowers that will do the job for you. I've also picked out a few associated products, including strimmers and edgers. These are the tools that will help you get your garden into shape quickly, just in time for your next party or BBQ — and at a reasonable price, too.

As the weather warms up, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy — particularly when preparing for outdoor entertaining.

And while you might already have a lawn care routine that you stick to, you might be forgetting to do this one crucial step before cutting your grass. In fact, it’s a common mistake we often make when mowing our lawn, but if left unchecked, it can cause long-term damage to our mower’s blades.

What’s more, this could ruin your lush, healthy grass just as the summer begins. So if you want to ensure a greener lawn, don’t skip this one lawn mower check.

Make sure the grass is dry before cutting

While this might not seem necessary in warmer months, you should always check that your grass is dry before getting the mower out. Be it from morning dew or a summer shower, excess moisture can make all the difference to your mower blades.

This is due to the fact that damp blades of grass tend to stick or clump together, which can significantly blunt your mower's cutting edge over time. Consequently, this makes the blades work less effectively and could cause them to overheat, as they’ll need to work harder to get through the clumps — and potentially make your mower break down.

In addition, moist cuttings can build up beneath the mower deck and across your blades, which results in rusted metal components and a decline in your machine’s efficiency.

Of course, keeping your lawn mower in top condition is vital, so ensure your mower blades are sharp and avoid mowing with blunt equipment.

There are many blade sharpening tools available online; however, a metal file also works well — always follow the safety guidelines for your mower. Check out our guide on how to sharpen lawn mower blades for more info.

Uneven and lackluster grass

To make matters worse, mowing when the grass is moist can trigger various other problems that can affect your turf's health. The first is torn or unevenly cut grass, as the sheer weight of moisture forces individual grass stalks to droop, preventing them from remaining upright and resulting in an uneven, ragged finish across your turf.

Another issue is the breeding of fungus and other diseases, as they thrive in the damp conditions of these rough cuts — causing damage to soil.

It’s worth noting that while cutting lightly damp grass on a single occasion probably won’t lead to long-term problems, it’s still best to avoid it as much as possible.

Just be sure to avoid these 7 lawnmower mistakes you’re probably making right now.

When is the best time to mow your lawn?

Gardening experts suggest that the ideal time to mow is mid-morning (by 10 am), as your lawn has had sufficient time to dry. In addition, allowing your turf enough time to dry and mowing by this time ensures your lawn has the full day to heal from the cut.

Alternatively, if you can’t get round to mid-morning, late afternoon (between 4-6 pm) is the second-best time of day to mow your lawn. This is when the sun is not at its peak, and there is no risk of the heat scorching the lawn. Also, mowing at this hour additionally provides your grass with ample time to heal before nightfall.

For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• This is the reason why your lawn mower grass cuttings are clumping — and the simple fix to solve it
• How to use coffee grounds as lawn fertilizer — 5 tips for a lush lawn
• The secret to a lush green lawn is this $3 bathroom item — and you might already own it

Mowing my yard is one chore I never look forward to. Well, at least not as I get older. I used to love mowing the grass for the workout, but now it does nothing but trigger my allergies.

I've experimented with robot lawnmowers in the past. I've paid $175 a month — even during the winter, when they weren't in use — to rent a couple of Husqvarna mowers from a landscaping company. Eventually, I realized it wasn't a wise investment, so I canceled the contract. Later on, I tested the EcoFlow Blade for a while, but its wheels loved to dig holes in my yard with each and every turn, so eventually I stopped using it.

For the last month, I've been testing the Sunseeker S4, a robot lawnmower that leverages AI and LiDAR for mapping and navigation. I don't want to spoil the review, but I'm smitten.

Sunseeker S4 review: Price and availability

The Sunseeker S4 is currently available directly from Sunseeker with a regular price of $1,799 but a sale price of $1,299, but Amazon has it on sale right now for just $984. That includes the robot lawnmower, a docking station, extra blades, and a cleaning brush for the LiDAR sensor.

If you're reading this and the S4 has returned to its normal price, I'd wait for a sale.

Sunseeker S4 review: Design

The S4 doesn't break the mold when it comes to the robot lawnmower's overall design. It's compact, measuring 25.12 x 16.61 x 10.79 inches, and weighs 26 pounds. In the event the robot gets stuck somewhere and you need to lift it, there's a handle built into the rear of the housing that makes it a breeze to pick up.

On the front of the S4 is a monocular camera with a 360-degree LiDAR sensor on top. It's tucked into a bumper that slightly moves in when the lawnmower presses against a hard object, The sensor is easy to spot due to its black bubble-like housing.

Behind the LiDAR bubble is a flip-up cover that hides an LCD display and a few buttons you can use to interact with the S4 — although I rarely had a need to do so — and a manual dial you use to adjust the cutting height, which ranges from 1.6 to 3.2 inches. There's a giant red STOP button that you can press to immediately stop the S4 in case of an emergency.

Underneath the stop button is the handle I previously mentioned. The S4 is rear-wheel driven with two trolley wheels that spin and move wherever the two rear wheels push the robot. Sunseeker's specs put the max gradient at 22 degrees — a stat that didn't apply to my mostly flat backyard. However, there's a slight slope to my front yard (I've never measured it), but the S4 didn't have any issues with slipping, even if the grass was wet.

When you flip the S4 over, you'll see six blades attached to a disc. It always amazes me when I test a robot lawnmower how small the blades are; they often look like razor blades you'd find in a box cutter.

Sunseeker S4 review: Installation and mapping

Setting up the S4 was a breeze. You'll first need to decide where you want to — and can — install the charging station. It measures 30 x 19 x 14.5 inches and can be placed at the edge of your yard, or even outside of it if you'd rather. You'll need a weatherproof electrical outlet nearby.

I already had a section of my yard that'd been killed by previous robot lawnmower docks, so it was an easy choice for me. I swapped out the old broken station and replaced it with the Sunseeker S4 in about 10 minutes. After sliding the S4 into the charging station, I created an account in the Sunseeker app, connected the S4 to my account and waited for the battery to fully charge.

The app walked me through the initial mapping of my yard, which required me to drive the S4 to a starting point along the edge of my grass. At that point, I could either continue to use my phone as a Bluetooth remote control and manually map my yard, or I could let the S4 automatically roam around the edge and create a map on its own. I stood by, ready to take over if needed, but the S4 slowly and judiciously creeped along the edge of my grass.

The S4 is the first robot lawnmower I've used that maps on its own, and I was impressed. There were a few areas I had to go back and manually drive the S4 over, adding to the existing map, but it was a much easier and streamlined process than I'd experienced with the EcoFlow Blade.

After mapping my backyard, I created a second zone, consisting of my front yard and let the S4 work its magic with mapping. There are a couple of trees in that yard, along with more corners and angled sections — unlike my backyard that has three flat edges. The S4 needed a little more help with correcting the front yard's map, but overall the process was simple.

So simple, in fact, I deleted both maps in the app and went through the process multiple times with similar results. You can save maps in the Sunseeker app and easily switch between them, which is also a nice touch.

My favorite part of mapping my yard, however, wasn't how easy it was, but instead it was the 3D map the LiDAR sensor created that I could view in the app.

It's one thing to read that a device has LiDAR and assume it'll help with object identification, navigation and mapping — but it's another to actually see what the S4 sees, down to the batting cage in the back corner of my yard along with the power and cable lines that run above my yard.

As far as object detection and avoidance goes, the S4 routinely routed itself around objects as big as my English Bulldog who walks in front of it daily, or as small as a Wiffle ball my kids leave in the yard. I didn’t expect it to see the latter at all and run it over instead, but once it gets within a few inches, it stops, slightly turns and goes around it.

Sunseeker S4 review: Performance

With two zones created, I used the Sunseeker app to create a path between them. I then set a schedule for Zone 1, the backyard, to be mowed Monday-Friday between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. There's a gate between my yards, so I couldn't set a schedule for Zone 2 as I have to manually open and close the gate when the robot needs to get through.

According to the Sunseeker app, Zone 1 is 3,184.96 square feet and Zone 2 is 2,690 square feet, for a total of 5,874.96 square feet between the two.

The initial pass over my backyard with grass — which was longer than I'd like to admit — required a couple of trips to the charging station. The S4 ran for around 90 minutes each time, and then took a couple of hours to charge before heading back out to complete the task.

The same can be said about mowing the front yard, which I asked it to do the following day. That process was tedious, only because I had to monitor the battery status in the app to let the S4 into the backyard so it could charge, and then let it back out once the battery was full. In total, it was two trips back and forth.

However, after that initial cut, the S4's cut time has dropped significantly. The backyard does require a return trip to charge for a little over an hour, then it heads back out for 20 minutes to finish the job. In total, it takes just under 2 hours of cutting time to mow the backyard — or just over 3 hours if you include charging time.

If I'm paying attention, I can catch it right after it finishes the backyard and manually redirect it to the front yard. From there, it tackles the rest of the lawn and returns to the dock on its own, completely finished in roughly an hour and forty-five minutes.

As for how good of a job it does at cutting grass, for the first few sessions it'd leave little rows of grass between each pass with the default cutting direction setting. However, after switching the cutting direction to traceless, which means each time the S4 cuts it changes direction, those missed rows have disappeared. If you’d prefer to have patterns cut in your yard, you can set the S4 to create items like a heart, a trophy, a star, or a soccer ball. It can also cut a pattern to represent numbers.

My lone complaint about the cutting performance of the S4 can be said about any of the robot lawnmowers I've owned — none of them can cut the edge of the yard. For the S4, it has a cutting width of 7 inches, but there's 4.3 inches between the edge of the lawnmower's housing and the blades. So, no matter how close you get the map to the edge of your grass, there's always going to be a small section of grass it just can't cut.

It's a fair trade, I guess. Instead of having to bribe my son to mow the yard maybe once every two weeks, my yards are mowed multiple times a week.

Sunseeker S4 review: Storage & maintenance

The S4's charging station serves as the main storage area for the robot when not in use. Along with charging it, there's an overhang to protect the top of the S4, complete with a brush to keep the LiDAR bubble clean. If you want more protection, Sunseeker sells a Sunproof Garage that extends the protection to the entire lawnmower.

During the winter months — and for that matter if you're expecting a lot of rain — I'd recommend removing the S4 from the dock and moving it indoors. During my testing, I had a rainstorm come through that dumped two inches of rain on us in an hour. It took me a couple of days to notice the S4 hadn't run on its set schedule, and upon further inspection I realized it wasn't even turning on.

I turned it upside down, removed the battery and let it dry out for a day, after which it came back to life. I have no idea how high the water got in my yard, but I do know there was standing water most of the night.

It's a good reminder that even though the S4 has an IPX6 waterproof rating, it's still susceptible to the elements.

As for routine maintenance on the S4, the Sunseeker app has a device maintenance menu that tracks when you should replace the blades (after 120 hours of use) and when you should wash the cutting disc (after 60 hours of use).

Otherwise, keeping the front camera and the LiDAR bubble clean are the only things you need to worry about.

Sunseeker S4 review: Verdict

This was my first time using a Sunseeker robot lawnmower, and it did not disappoint. My yard hasn't consistently looked this good in years. The Sunseeker S4 was easy to set up, forgoing the need to install a dedicated GPS antenna like the EcoFlow Blade, or bury a guide wire like previous Husqvarna mowers I've used.

Battery life is good enough for its 0.25-acre limit, and after fine-tuning the settings you'll get a clean cut every time.

Well, except for the edges. Make sure to keep a trimmer handy.

As summer arrives, there’s something satisfying about getting the lawnmower out for a weekly cut. I find the familiar hum of the mowers across my neighborhood almost comforting and a signal that summer gardening season is in full swing.

The smell of freshly mown grass is a scent we associate with summer, but the question for gardeners is, do you leave your clippings on your lawn or remove them after each cut?

With the help of a lawn care expert, I look at what you should do with your lawn clippings and why.

The lawn clipping debate: Ditch or leave?

I remember my dad painfully raking up every last lawn clipping each time his mower made an appearance, but he could have saved himself the time and effort by leaving the clippings where they lay. Because left in situ, they become the ultimate fertilizer.

If your lawn is small, removing the clippings doesn’t require much effort, but for those with a large lawn, it’s more exhausting, especially in the summer heat. Luckily, the good news is you don’t need to rake up your clippings to have the perfect lawn, because there’s a benefit to leaving them be.

Why you shouldn't ditch your lawn clippings

If your lawn clippings are short and dry, there’s an advantage to leaving them on your lawn, as they act as a mulch. Marc Kerr, co-founder with Luke Taylor, at So & Mo, explains, “Mulching involves leaving finely chopped clippings on the lawn to decompose naturally. This acts as a natural fertilizer, returning essential nutrients like nitrogen to the soil and helping to retain moisture.”

Apart from helping your lawn, it has other benefits too. “Mulching saves time and effort, as you won’t need to stop mowing to empty a bag or worry about disposal. It’s also eco-friendly, keeping organic material on site and reducing waste,” Kerr adds.

It won’t look so neat

The only downside is that the clippings won’t create a perfectly manicured lawn, and, under certain conditions, they can harm your lawn. “Mulching may not provide the pristine look collecting clippings does, and if the grass is wet or too long, clippings can clump together, potentially smothering the grass beneath,” says Kerr.

Just as there’s a perfect time to water your lawn, Kerr has clear guidance on how to use clippings. “Mulching is most effective when mowing is done regularly and you keep the grass at an ideal length, so when you mow, there isn’t much waste.”

How to decide which path to take?

Whether you leave your grass clippings or clear them up depends on your priorities. Kerr explains, “If you’re seeking a tidy, weed-free appearance or have a composting system in place, collecting clippings might be your best bet. If you prefer a low-maintenance, sustainable approach that boosts your lawn’s health, mulch is the better option.”

When to remove grass clippings from your lawn

Weeds are common in all gardens, especially dandelions, crabgrass and bindweed. However, using the clippings as a mulch where weeds are prominent will spread the seeds and make the situation worse.

In this scenario, Kerr says boxing and disposing of the clippings is best. The same applies if your lawn is long, as you may not be able to see the hidden weeds beneath the tall grass.

The low-maintenance alternative

Of course, you don’t have to spend your weekends pushing a heavy mower to keep your lawn tidy. A robot lawnmower will take over the chore, giving you time to sit back and enjoy your yard. Although if you’re like me, you’ll find another job to do!

The benefits go beyond just saving effort. Instead of going for a weekly chop, a robot lawnmower will cut your lawn between 3 and 4 times a week. And rather than removing long blades, a robot mower will cut a fraction during each sweep, leaving the minute clippings behind to act as a fertilizer for a healthy lawn.

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• The secret to a lush green lawn is this $3 bathroom item — and you might already own it
• 7 expert tips to make your lawn look amazing this summer
• Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower

Dull mower blades are the most overlooked cause of an unhealthy lawn. Instead of cutting grass cleanly, dull blades tear and shred grass blades, leaving ragged edges that turn brown, invite disease, and stress roots.

Sharp mower blades can make all the difference between a pristine lawn and a damaged one. Sharpening your lawn mower blades takes about 30 minutes, requires no professional help, and saves you money on premature blade replacements.

Whether you're using a metal file or an angle grinder, this step-by-step guide covers exactly how to sharpen your mower blade safely, at the right angle, and correctly balanced, so your grass stays healthy all season long.

How often should I sharpen my lawn mower blade? 

Sharpen your lawn mower blades after every 25 hours of mowing, which is roughly twice per season for regular users.

Beyond the schedule, torn or ragged grass edges after cutting, a lawn that yellows a day or two after mowing, or visible nicks on the blade are all signs it needs attention sooner. Hitting a rock, stick, or hard object while mowing warrants an immediate inspection too.

Always sharpen before storing your mower for winter. It prevents corrosion and means the mower is ready to go the moment spring arrives.

Not every dull blade is worth sharpening. Cracks or fractures anywhere on the blade, a severe bend that sharpening won't correct, or metal worn so thin from repeated sharpening that it won't hold an edge — these are all signs replacement is the right move.

Once you've sharpened your mower blades and mown your lawn, it’s worth leaving the grass clippings on your lawn. They’ll act as a natural mulch and fertilizer.

More from Tom's Guide

• 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's
• Ant hills multiplying? How to destroy the colony before it takes over your yard
• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass

For years — nay, decades — I've spent most weekends standing on my lawn, yanking on my mower's pull cord like I was trying to wrestle a chainsaw into submission. It was exhausting. Eventually, I just snapped — I could no longer abide the oil leaks, the spluttering, the stopping for no reason and refusing to start up again. It seriously felt like the machine was personally offended by doing the one thing that justifies its existence. I'm talking years and years of constant maintenance for very little reward.

So, yeah. I ditched it. Hasta la vista, you piece of junk.

I decided to go electric, and now I'm kicking myself for waiting this long. The very first time I held down the start button and pulled the bail bar, there was just a quiet whirr. No fumes. No failed starts. It simply worked. Within seconds, I was gliding across the lawn with very little effort (largely due to my model being self-propelled). And when I was done, I could go back inside without smelling like a servo forecourt.

Mowing feels like less of a chore

To me, the change feels less like a simple upgrade and more like breaking free from a toxic relationship. Sure, my front and back yards haven't changed, but the chore itself? Suddenly, it’s completely effortless.

The biggest change was no longer dealing with oil or petrol. The Ryobi model I bought came with a 36V 6.0Ah rechargeable lithium battery, and all I have to do is slot it into place and the lawn mower is ready to go.

On a full charge, that battery gives me about 35 minutes of mowing in Smart mode, though switching to Eco mode can stretch that time. There’s also a Power mode for tackling really dense or tall grass, but it drains the battery faster. Honestly, I haven’t come across any grass that Smart mode couldn’t handle with ease.

Swapping petrol power for batteries

I also have an extra 4.0Ah battery that came with the matching Ryobi line trimmer I bought at the same time, and it fits perfectly into the second battery slot on my mower, adding about 25 more minutes of runtime. Even if you don’t go for an electric line trimmer or edger (or both, like my model with its switchable heads), I still strongly suggest having a second battery.

The only prep needed is making sure the batteries are fully charged before mowing, and that's honestly the only downside I've come across in the switch to a battery-powered mower. Each battery takes roughly twice the time to charge as it does to use, which works out to around 70 minutes for the 6.0Ah battery and 50 minutes for the 4.0Ah battery.

Personally, I’d much prefer that to having to stop several times during a mowing session to refill my previous mower’s four-stroke engine with petrol, or worse, stopping to mix precise amounts of oil into a separate petrol can before fueling up the old two-stroke mower I had prior.

Managing battery usage

Of course, long charging times is only really an issue if you have particularly large front and back yards. Mine are fairly spacious, and I’ve noticed I can finish mowing the larger front yard — being on a corner, I have quite a bit of street-facing grass along the side of the house — with at least one light still showing on my 6.0Ah battery’s four-light indicator. The same goes for my medium-sized backyard when using the 4.0Ah battery.

The key is to start charging your depleted battery right after switching to a fully charged one if you plan to keep mowing. By the time the second battery runs out, the first should have a decent charge again. There's also the option of purchasing additional batteries, though I don't think that will be necessary for the average Aussie household.

Still, these runtimes are all specific to my mower and its batteries. There are many battery-powered mowers available, some of which may even be better suited to your lawn's layout and size. Here are some of the top models available on Amazon right now, listed by price. Simply click through to any model to read more about its capabilities.

Top electric mowers on Amazon

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Stop mowing your lawn this way — an expert says you could be killing your grass
• 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower
• 7 zero-maintenance plants that will make your front porch look amazing

The warmer weather lately has made me appreciate the roses and other early summer flowers coming into bloom outside — and, of course, puzzle over problem areas of my backyard.

If you're also frustrated by gaps in your borders, interested in growing some veggies, thinking about buying a robot lawn mower, or want tips in tackling garden pests or other problems, then ask our experts for their advice. The live Q&A ran Wednesday 20 May between 7am and 12pm (US Eastern Time).

Answering your questions we have Camilla Sharman, our homes and gardens writer and gardening aficionado; Cynthia Lawrence, our Homes editor; and Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith. Between them and their years of experience, I'm confident there's nothing they can't answer.

Ask a question with or without photos

It's easy to join in; just type your question into the 'Live Q&A' box below and we'll reply as soon as we can. You should get a notification when we do so, but it's also worth checking back to see what other people are asking as you'll likely pick up some useful tips to try in your own yard!

You can even submit a photo with your question, to help our experts and other readers to understand what you'd like help with. To do so, upload your photo and question together in the Comments section at the bottom of this page (the Live Q&A module can't handle photos yet, sadly).

On that note, feel free to chime in if you've found a hack that could solve someone else's problem. We can't get enough of supportive contributions from our community.

Memorial weekend yard improvements, anyone?

Hello everyone, Ella here, engagement editor at Tom's Guide and massive gardening geek! In case you missed our announcement article earlier in the week, today we're running this session to help you with your lawn and gardening questions.

If you're planning a Memorial Day barbecue and want to spruce up your outdoor space, looking to emulate your favorite aspects of of the Chelsea Flower Show gardens, or wondering how to look after your lawn in the heat, then ask our experts. The lines are now open, so fire away!

Are cheap robot lawn mowers worthwhile?

Reader Mary Smyth1 was the first to ask a question, almost as soon as we posted our announcement about this event! She asked, "I'm seeing lots of robot lawn mowers pop up at stores like Lidl and Aldi - are there any under 500 that are worth buying or do you recommend sticking with a manual one?"

Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith, gave us this answer for Mary:

There is something genuinely satisfying about a manual mower. Doing the lawn yourself and standing back to see those neat stripes and a job clearly done is a nice feeling, and for some people, that little bit of effort is half the point of having a lawn. So, if you enjoy it, there is no rush to give it up.

That said, a robot mower is worth it if you ask me. They cut just a little bit each day, which keeps the lawn at a steady length and helps the grass fill in thicker over time. Even the basic ones from places like Lidl or Aldi manage that fine, without turning the whole thing into some big project.

You do still have to lay the boundary wire around the edges first, though, and that takes an hour or two of fiddly work to get right. It is worth checking the height settings too, so you can let it run a bit higher in summer when the grass prefers being left longer.

Weeds stay a bit tricky, since the clippings just sit there rather than getting collected. Running the mower every day cuts most of the heads off before they spread, and pulling out an old mower with the box on for a week or so helps catch the rest. That part tends to get overlooked at first, but it makes a real difference.

So, under £500, I would say go for it, especially if mowing is not a job you love. You might even keep the old manual one for those times you fancy doing it yourself.

In a pickle with your pear tree?

Reader Ash Star asked this question, "Any tips on keeping pear rust at bay? Its ruined my tree for the last few years."

To which our homes and gardens writer and gardening aficionado Camilla Sharman replied:

It can be a worry when you spot pear rust on the leaves of your tree. It appears as orange spots on the upper leaf surface and forms bulky growth on the underside, and it's caused by fungus.

For the fungus to complete its life cycle, it needs both a pear and juniper tree, as the juniper harbors the fungus in winter and it moves over to the pear in spring. Do you have a juniper close by in your yard?

If you plan to eat the fruit — and frankly, I'm sure you do — it's not recommended that you use a fungicide on your tree. Instead, prune out the affected material. However, to stop the fungus spreading, don’t compost the material.

The other option is to remove the nearby juniper (if this applies to you).

My turn to get my narrow garden's problem pathway solved!

Ella again here! The above photo of my garden shows my problem: I'm in the middle of renovating my 1930s home and can't wait to tackle the garden once the builders are done. I have a long and narrow garden in Bristol, South-West England, which is on a steep hill. There's an old concrete path running down one side, and because the plot is on a hill, the path is raised at the point nearest the house.

It feels unsafe for my kids to ride bikes down as it's fairly narrow and raised about a foot off the height of the lawn at its highest point. I also hate how it makes our narrow garden feel even narrower (admittedly the relatively wide borders don't help with that either!)

My question for the experts is if and how I should remove the path, to replace it with a more naturalistic walkway — or if it would be better to build up the height of my lawn to make it safer and hopefully blend it in a bit, visually?

Homes writer Camilla answered: I'd like to suggest removing your border shrubs and replacing them with a climbing plant, like clematis, to help widen your space.

Lawnsmith expert Jonathan Davis advised:

There is no single right answer here, so it is about weighing up how much work, money and space you want to put in. A few options to think through.

The least disruptive route is to build topsoil up to the path so the drop closes. You bring soil up to the gap, level it off, and let it settle naturally over the next year or two. It is the cheapest and easiest in the short term, but bear in mind it does not change the look much, the concrete path stays, and on a slope, the new soil can settle unevenly, so it may need topping up before it really beds in.

The bigger job is to remove the path altogether and lower it down, so a new walkway sits flush with the lawn. That deals with the drop properly and lets you swap the grey concrete for something softer like informal paving or bound gravel, which suits a long, thin garden far better. The trade-off is labour and cost, since breaking out and relaying a path is a proper project rather than a weekend.

It is worth thinking about the borders too, not just the path. You have already spotted that they are eating into the width, and pulling them back a little, perhaps a foot or so each side, would give you back some usable space and ease that narrow feeling. The thing to weigh up is how much you can afford to remove without losing the look and feel of the borders.

So, it comes down to your priorities. If quick and cheap matters most, build up to the path and accept that the look stays similar. If you want the garden to genuinely feel different, removing the path and trimming the borders together, while the builders are already in, gets you the biggest change for the most effort.

We really do love hearing from you ♥️

By the way, we were inspired to run today's event thanks to you, amazing Tom's Guide readers. You consistently show up to vote in polls like the one above, to leave us comments on gardening articles asking for more information or letting us know that you tried one of our hacks, and it really does brighten up our days.

But more than that, it helps us to understand your interests and challenges at a personal level, and to respond with helpful articles.

For example, the poll above revealed to us that almost 1,500 of you (at the time of writing) have problems with squirrels in your garden, so our shopping team put together this roundup of 9 products to deter squirrels from your garden. Personally, I'm on team slugs as my greatest enemy.

Today's event has a similar philosophy, but at a much more personal level, as we're diving in with answers to your individual scenario.

So please do keep the questions coming, with or without photos, and as much information to help our experts as you can give please!

If you've never left a comment on our site before then you may need to sign up to post your first question. It's free to sign up and will unlock a host of other Tom's Club member benefits, such as exclusive rewards and savings, the ability to earn badges and enter giveaways, join in with popular conversations and all Live Q&As, and reveal hints for our quizzes and puzzles.

Feeling inspired by the Chelsea Flower Show?

In case you missed it, it's Chelsea Flower Show week in London, and King Charles, Queen Camilla, and Sir David Beckham are among the guests this year. The King and Sir David even collaborated on making a show garden.

You may not have the space or inclination to host a giant hand-carved Mother Nature sculpture in your backyard (maybe one day, hey)! But has anything else caught your eye and got you feeling inspired to recreate a bit of the world's greatest flower show back home? One thing that's really caught my eye is the trend for gentle, trickling pools and water features as calming spaces, which I'd love to incorporate in my space somewhere.

Astroturf, be gone!

Kate asked, "How can I turn my small, south- facing walled garden into a fragrant and colourful haven with fruits and flowers? I’m moving to this house soon and wondering what to plant when I remove the plastic grass."

To which garden writer Camilla answered:

Wow! I have garden envy. A south-facing walled garden means you have lots of options. Firstly, I’m glad you are going to rip up the artificial grass; you’ll instantly increase biodiversity in your garden and improve drainage.

For a small garden, I would recommend growing climbers to add vertical interest without taking up much space. Honeysuckle, climbing roses and Star jasmine are all great plants to grow, adding color and fragrance to your garden. For an easy climber, I’d recommend Clematis Montana.

Lavender is another favorite with a beautiful aroma that loves a dry, sunny spot — it’s perfect in a bed, as a hedge or in a container. Another option for containers and hanging baskets is scented geraniums, which also add a bright pop of color if you choose red or pink blooms. Herbs are another good option, for both their culinary use and aromatic scent. I’m a keen fan of thyme, which I plant in the ground and containers. It really depends on your preference; a curry plant or rosemary are other options to consider.

If you have a small garden, you might be restricted in what fruit you can go, but you can find dwarf versions of apple and pear trees. You can also grow soft fruits, such as strawberries. For something more exotic, I have a fig tree in a container, but I’m still working on a decent fruit to eat.

Kate replied, "What a great reply, thanks so much. I am taking my potted blueberry bushes with me to this garden. I love your suggestions for climbing plants. A fig tree is a good idea. Herbs, definitely work for me, too. Thyme tumbling over the walls of the raised beds could be pretty. Thank you for all your ideas."

How to save a 'leggy' clematis

Next up, reader jemmajmartin asked, "I have a very large clematis in my garden that has been there for 20 years or more. We have neglected it a bit and it's become woody. When and how can I cut it back?"

And our garden writer Camilla was quick to answer:

It’s well worth taking care of your clematis, as you’ll be able to enjoy an abundance of blooms. However, they can become messy and unruly if they are not pruned, just as you've experienced.

Before you get started, ensure you have a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears; they’ll help you make a clean cut without infecting the plant.

However, pruning clematis is not straightforward as there are three types, and they need pruning at different times:

Type 1: These are early-flowering climbers that bloom in late winter and early spring on last year’s growth. You can prune them back after they finish flowering.

Type 2: These are large-flowered show-stopping hybrids that flower in spring and summer on last year’s growth. This type is best pruned in late winter or early spring, so it’s not a good time right now.

Type 3: These produce flowers on the current growth and flower later than the first two types, blooming in mid-to-late summer. They are the easiest to prune, and should be cut right back to 12 to 18 inches above the soil. However, you’ll need to wait until late winter or early spring before doing so.

I love your question Jemma, and we'll be following up with a feature on how to prune clematis very shortly.

Grass alternatives?

amsipams asked, "We have a peat-based soil, we are south west facing so get plenty of sun, but the garden still seems to be damp and patchy most of the year, we cannot install a soak away or drainage, is there an alternative to grass that we could use as a ground cover that would be more successful?"

So of course we put the question to lawn professional Jonathan, who said:

"Clover would be my first suggestion for ground like yours. Peat-based soil holds onto a lot of moisture, and even with a sunny aspect, grass really struggles where the ground stays damp and cannot drain freely. It is one of the main reasons lawns go patchy, the grass just cannot get the conditions it needs at the roots.

A clover or micro clover lawn copes with those conditions far better. It stays green through damp spells, fixes its own nitrogen so you are not constantly feeding it, and gives you that low, even ground cover you are after without the bare patches. It also holds up well to foot traffic and tends to stay greener through dry summer spells than a standard lawn, since it roots deeper. Micro clover blends in particular look closest to a traditional lawn if that is the finish you want.

One thing to be aware of, clover does flower, which brings in bees, so it is something to think about if you have little ones running around barefoot. Regular mowing keeps the flowers down, but it is worth weighing up before you sow."

Camilla added: I've recently written about alternatives to traditional lawns, including 'lazy lawns', and clover makes a perfect choice.

...Or do you want more grass?

Lawns are emerging as a popular theme today! In contrast to amsipams' previous question about alternatives to grass, mwray59 asked, "How do I get rid of white clover that has taken over my lawn without harmful chemicals?"

To which Jonathan Davis at Lawnsmith has answered:

The good news is you can knock clover back without any chemicals; it just takes a change in how you look after the lawn.

Clover takes over when the grass around it is weak, and that almost always comes down to low nitrogen in the soil. Clover thrives in those conditions because it makes its own nitrogen, while the grass cannot.

So the single most effective thing you can do is feed the lawn properly with a nitrogen-rich lawn feed through spring and summer. As the grass picks up and thickens, it starts to crowd the clover out naturally, which is really the only long-term fix.

Fruit tree problems

Reader mwray59 has asked a second question, this time about their fruit tree: "I also have an apple tree that never leaved out or bloomed this year. The branches are still pliable. I don't know if it's dead or what."

Camilla offers this advice:

It’s good to know that the branches of your apple tree are still pliable. This is a sign that it’s still holding onto water. You can scrape back the bark to check the layer underneath. If it’s moist and bright green, then the tree is still alive. If you give a branch a bend and it doesn’t snap, it’s also a good sign.

It does take a few years for apple trees to mature, which will delay when they bloom, but I assume from your question that your tree has blossomed and produced fruit in the past. It could be the case that the tree is still dormant and needs a little longer to wake up.

Another issue could be that the roots are restricted or the soil is poor, and it can’t gain the nutrients it requires. Ensure it receives adequate water, mulch around the base and add some fertilizer.

That reminds me

Last week, we published two articles about fruit trees that may help other readers: one on fixing yellow lemon tree leaves and the other, inspired by a reader poll, on how to get lemon trees to fruit.

So you're not alone in having issues with your fruit tree, mwray59!

What's everyone else working on?

We’re nearing the end of today’s Live Q&A session already, and the time has flown! So let's check in on the results of our poll above.

Right now, the answers to ‘Which bit of your garden do you most want to improve?’ are:

43% say Lawns

30% say Planting

13% say Landscaping

9% say Seating

4% say Better tools

0% say Water

So for those of you who have voted in the poll but haven't asked a question yet, I've pulled together some of our best recent articles that I hope can help you.

We’ve already answered quite a lot of questions about lawns today, and the team also have a suite of helpful articles on this topic. I recommend you check out 5 common lawn care mistakes that are killing your yard, I tried the ‘lazy’ lawn method, and Why you should stop watering your lawn every day this summer.

For planting tips, check out 7 zero-maintenance plants that will make your front porch look amazing and skyrocket your curb appeal as well as 5 super-fast flowers to sow in May to get your garden blooming quickly and I tried the viral 'cardboard method' in my raised garden bed — and it totally worked.

When it comes to landscaping and outdoor seating, you may find some perfect purchases in this guide to Memorial Day outdoor deals and the 25 Walmart patio and garden deals under $50 that will make your backyard look more expensive.

And finally, we’ve tested all manner of gardening tools, such as the best robot lawn mowers, the best pruning shears, and also have helpful guides such as 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

Pests pestering your veggies?

Many of us gardeners are familiar with hungry caterpillars and green aphids. But Kate has asked about some white veggie pests: "I have been growing spinach and red chard in my garden for several years. The only trouble is that tiny white moth-like flies turn up under every leaf and start to eat the leaves too. Is there a natural way to deter them or remove them before they kill off the plants, please?"

Camilla has come back with this tip:

It sounds like whiteflies are enjoying your vegetables. Natural predators, such as ladybugs and spiders, will help to control them. You could also try companion planting, introducing highly scented marigolds and herbs that confuse and deter whiteflies, while pollen-rich, flat-topped flowers and certain aromatic herbs will deter them, while also and encouraging ladybugs.

You can also give your plants a blast with a hose or a spray bottle to dislodge the insect and their eggs. Alternatively, spray your plants with a mixture of dish soap and water (a dash of dish soap per gallon of water).

That's us signing off on today's Live Q&A. Thanks so much to everyone who voted in our poll and posted questions.

And even bigger thanks to Camilla and Jonathan for sharing their years of expertise and passion. I've found it all super valuable and hope you did too!

PS If you're tuning in a little late, you can add a comment to the bottom of the article with any more burning questions, and we'll endeavour to get back to you when we can!

Gardening does not make for an easy life, especially if you like to have a perfect lawn. Apart from giving your lawn a regular mow, it needs constant care and attention. From reseeding your lawn when it becomes patchy, to aerating and scarifying your prized patch. It’s a never-ending chore to keep it looking lush.

However, more gardeners are looking at alternatives to the perfectly manicured lawn and considering a ‘lazy lawn' instead. I was so intrigued that I tried it out myself and was surprised at the results. To help you decided whether it's right for you, I've called on the expertise of a lawn care expert.

What is a lazy lawn?

Rather than assuming that a ‘lazy lawn' is a traditional lawn left to defend for itself, this is not the case. Although No Mow May means leaving your lawn uncut for a month to encourage wildlife and pollinators into your yard, a ‘lazy lawn’ can be left all year round, without much care, apart from a few mows.

A ‘lazy lawn’ is composed of low-growing, low-maintenance grass and groundcover which is often drought-resistant. And apart from being easy to maintain, it acts as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional grass, attracting butterflies and pollinators.

Angelika Zaber, lawn care and gardening expert at Online Turf, says that Irish moss, creeping clover, or creeping thyme are ideal plants for a ‘lazy lawn’, while a low-maintenance grass variety, such as rye grass, can also cut down your workload.

Zaber also adds, "A lot of ground covers also do not need much fertilization to thrive. This is especially true for clover, which is known for its ability to convert nitrogen from the air and then adding it to the soil."

Tread carefully

But beware. Zaber says that many ground-cover lawns can only handle light foot traffic, so they might not be the best choice if you have kids who love to run around. In this instance, she recommends rye grass. "It establishes quickly, is extremely durable, and has elements of pest and disease resistance built in, requiring fewer treatments than many other grass types to keep it looking its best. As a result, it will save you both money and time in the long run."

How to start a lazy lawn

Although a lazy lawn won’t need much work once it is established, you will need to put in some grass to get it off to the best start.

Firstly, you’ll need to prepare the soil. “Start by removing any weeds, so that they don’t compete with the new plants, along with other debris,” says Zaber. “Then, you may need to turn the soil to a depth of 6 inches, and then clear any more debris again.”

If your soil is poor or you’re struggling to turn it, she recommends adding some topsoil. Once this stage is complete, rake the soil in different directions until it’s smooth and level. She then says, “Slowly walk heel-to-toe to spot any soft patches, then rake again.”

You are now ready to sow or lay your lazy lawn. If you are looking to create a ‘lazy lawn’ on a budget, I’d recommend choosing seed over laying a lawn. The impact won’t be quite so instant, but with patience, it won’t be long until you can enjoy your new lawn.

What plants make a great 'lazy lawn'

“Creeping thyme and Irish moss are a great choice for grass lawn alternatives,” says Zaber, although she adds, “If you want a more traditional lawn, but with less maintenance, then turf or a seed mix with a high percentage of rye grass in it is going to be the perfect choice.”

However, the choice is endless; you could also opt for other low-growing plants such as clover, creeping jenny or chamomile. Here we take a look at three plants that are perfect for a 'lazy lawn'.

Creeping thyme

What makes creeping thyme a good choice? “It’s often used as a ground cover due to its ability to spread quickly. At the same time, it is also drought-tolerant, thrives in shallow soil, and does well at suppressing weeds while attracting beneficial pollinators to your garden,” explains Zaber.

Creeping thyme is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9, and it needs full sun and a well-drained soil. Although it won’t need as much water as a traditional lawn, Zaber recommends watering it regularly during dry spells, until it’s established.

It will the benefit from a light prune in late fall and early spring, “this will improve its overall appearance and stop it from becoming too woody,” she says.

Irish moss

Irish moss is an alternative to creeping thyme that grows well in USDA zones 4-8, although Zaber says, “It's not actually moss, but a low-growing perennial plant that works well as ground cover.”

“To plant Irish moss, wait until the frosty temperatures have passed and then choose a spot that receives full sun or partial shade,” explains Zaber. “Simply sprinkle the seeds around the area and then wait 2-3 weeks for them to germinate.”

But don’t be tempted to cover the seeds, as Zaber says they need to be exposed to sunlight, and kept moist too.

Rye grass

For a tougher alternative, rye grass is a good choice. It's suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-8 and does best in a sunny area, with Zaber adding that it can tolerate some shade.

She suggests watering regularly until the grass is established and then water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep roots.

I can also benefit from fertilizer in the spring and fall to help it recover from the winter and prepare for it. And to gain a "lush, thick turf effect", Zaber recommends mowing it frequently.

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• I’m a gardener and I recommend this 5-minute quick fix for a patch-free lawn
• Expert reveals the kitchen waste item that can help you create a green and healthy lawn
• 3 flower seeds to sow in May for beautiful blooms

It’s no secret that dogs can wreak havoc on a lawn and turn what could potentially be a perfect patch into an expanse of grass dotted with urine spots and unsightly holes.

And while dogs will do what dogs do, it would be unfair to keep them off your lawn and curtail their chance to exercise and expend energy.

However, dogs have two bad habits that jeopardize your lawn’s chance of success. They will happily urinate on your grass and dig holes when in an excited frenzy.

To help you repair your lawn after dog damage and to find preventative measures to lessen the destruction, I’ve called on lawn care pros to reveal their secrets. And it appears that even if you are a dog owner, you can have a lawn to be proud of.

Dog urine is the worst offender

The first thing your dog is likely to do when it runs out onto your lawn is to have a wee. And as they are creatures of habit, that are likely to have a favorite spot. So, if you're lucky, they won’t decimate your whole expanse of grass. But wherever they urinate, they leave a mark, and it's what's in the urine that damages the lawn.

“Dog urine is high in nitrogen, which can scorch grass. The nitrogen content isn’t too dissimilar from bleach or ammonia and it leaves behind a lighter patch as if the lawn has been burned,” explains Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith. “And similarly with bleach, it’s the concentration of your dog’s wee that causes the issue.”

You may be wondering why the nitrogen in dogs’ urine damages grass when nitrogen is used as a lawn fertilizer. The problem lies when it is sprayed in a concentrated area. In this scenario, Davis says it can kill off your grass in days.

This concentration of nitrogen results in another problem, too. “It can also cause grass around it to grow faster, so you end up with uneven growth,” he adds.

The damage caused by dog urine is known as ‘dog spot’, but Jason McCausland, national technical coordinator at Weed Man, says it can be confused with other damage often caused by road salt or fertilizer spills, and says, “you can identify a dog spot by the margin of dark green, rapidly growing grass surrounding a bright yellow patch of dying grass.”

The size of the spots will also vary depending on whether your dog is male or female. Iryna Smyrnova, vet at Meowoff, says, “Due to the nature of how females and males urinate, female dogs and dogs that consistently urinate in one location will likely produce a larger circular ‘dead zone’.”

How to treat urine burn

To reduce the damage to your lawn, you have to act fast to prevent urine burn. Dilution is key. “Always water the area that your dog has urinated on straight away. This will dilute the nitrogen and salts, preventing fertilizer-burn-like damage to your lawn,” recommends Angelika Zaber, lawncare specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

Having a full watering can ready to go, or a hose close at hand, are cheap and quick tactics that can help reduce the problem.

If this is difficult to do, or you never get there in time, she recommends training your dog to urinate elsewhere in your yard where there isn’t any grass.

Hilary Thompson, horticultural and communications director at Super-Sod & Soil, has personal experience of this issue. She trained her new dog to urinate in a mulched area by leading her there and praising her when she peed on the leaves. You might also want to try a gravel bed, or, if this method doesn’t work for you, install a barrier, such as a fence.

Dilute and then reseed

Once you’ve diluted the nitrogen in your grass, you may also need to reseed your lawn to help it become thick and healthy once more. Gene Caballero, cofounder at GreenPal, then says that before scattering the lawn seed, you’ll need to rake out the dead grass and loosen the soil, then water it deeply and apply the seed, before covering it with topsoil.

Diving in to dog holes

Aside from your pet using your lawn as a toilet, your four-legged friend is highly likely to get the zoomies from time to time. The result? A calmer dog, after it’s spun around in circles, chasing its tail, but a distressed lawn, and one that’s likely to include holes.

Why do dogs dig holes in lawns? According to Zaber, most of the time it’s because they are bored or anxious. However, this is not necessarily the case, as Smyyrnova adds it can also be due to the breed, especially if it was originally bred for hunting or digging.

To help prevent your dog from digging up your lawn, Zaber says, “Make sure that they receive a lot of stimulation. This can include long walks, interactive toys, and mental stimulation toys, such as puzzles.”

Aside from keeping your dog active, she also recommends teaching your dog to only dig in one spot, so that they leave the rest of your lawn alone. And she adds, “If these methods do not work, you can always install a chicken wire just below the soil, as it will feel uncomfortable on their paws.”

How to fix holes in your lawn

This method is similar to when reseeding spots where your dog has urinated, but this time you’ll need to fill in the hole before adding the seed.

Begin to fill the hole in your lawn with topsoil, and ensure it is level with the ground. Zaber suggests giving it some water to allow it to settle, then adding more topsoil if needed.

Once you are happy with the ground level, add your grass seed and cover it with a thin layer of topsoil. “This will reduce the chances of them being blown away or eaten by birds,” says Zaber.

McCausland also advises sectioning off this area of your lawn for a few weeks while the seeds germinate, and to prevent your dog from digging fresh holes.

For instant results, you may prefer to lay new turf, but do fill in the hole before laying it to ensure it stays level.

The best type of grass for pet owners

Even though your dog may be your best friend, it’s hard not to get annoyed when it causes chaos to your lawn, and this problem is intensified if there are two or more partners in crime.

Although you can step in to undo some of the damage or train your dog to urinate or dig holes elsewhere in your yard, there is another way to reduce the distress. The type of grass you choose will make a difference.

“Not all lawns are built the same. Starting with a grass seed that is more durable will help it withstand the challenges your furry friend presents,” says Davis.

He also adds that varieties that are strong and quick to establish suit heavily used gardens that often have children and pets playing in them.

So what does he suggest if you own a dog? "Perennial ryegrass and fescue are a great combination. Ryegrass is durable and will grow quickly, while fescue produces a finer-leaved grass that will provide a lush, green lawn.”

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Why you need to know about the 3-inch lawncare rule this May
• Stop spending a fortune on expensive lawn treatments: These 7 genius budget-friendly hacks will give you a stunning green yard
• Stop mowing your lawn this way — an expert says you could be killing your grass

Gaining a perfect lawn isn’t just about regular mowing, weeding, aerating and plenty more besides; it’s about the finishing touches that give it the edge.

While you spend time tackling dandelions and crabgrass, removing thatch and fertilizing your lawn, there’s one task that often gets forgotten. The secret to a beautiful lawn is neat edges, with a clean line defining the lawn and its borders.

This is where the 3-inch lawncare rule comes to play. What's more, as garden season begins to pick up and our lawns move out of dormancy, May is the ideal month to get your lawn in shape.

Defining the 3-inch lawn edging rule

This method involves creating a clean, crisp vertical edge with a sharp drop that separates your grass from the soil in your borders. In simple terms, it involves making a narrow 3-inch trench between the two areas.

The vertical cut is deep enough to prevent grass from creeping over into your borders, as the 3-inch cut should sever most grass roots. It also creates a small gap between the turf and the soil that casts a shadow, further defining the space.

While many gardeners, myself included, turn to a manual edging tool or an electric lawn edger, the 3-inch rule requires a sharp spade, such as Fiskars Long-Handled Digging Shovel, $29 at Home Depot. It’s this simple tool that can help define the boundary, and give the perfect finish to your lush lawn.

How to achieve the 3-inch edge

1. Mark out a clear line to follow on the edge of your lawn. You could use a rope or chalk.

2. Take a sharp spade and cut 3 inches into your turf, keeping the blade straight for a vertical cut.

3. Continue working along the border to form a neat line that separates the lawn from your beds.

4. Now work back along your vertical line and position your spade at a slight angle back towards your lawn. Remove a narrow edge of soil from beneath the turf. This technique should prevent the grass from growing back into the bed.

5. Tidy up any loose soil and grass trimmings, then stand back and enjoy your hard work.

How to maintain a neat lawn edge

After each mow, go along the edge of your lawn with some long-handled edging shears, such as Fiskars Long Handle Swivel Grass Shears, $34 at Home Depot. Use the shears to remove the edges that your lawnmower didn’t reach. Keep a check on the neatness of the vertical edge and trench, and recut the edge when needed.

You might also be interested in how to transform your backyard for less this summer — 5 garden tools I recommend under $25.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Want a bumper crop on a budget? Grow these 7 high-yield vegetables in May
• Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower
• Best robot lawnmowers of CES

Robot lawnmowers are not only becoming less expensive, but they’re also getting a lot simpler to use. The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is a prime example. This model can be found for around $1,000, and was one of the easiest models I’ve yet installed on my lawn.

While you have to temper some expectations in terms of its performance — it’s rated to just 1/4 acre — it does its job well. And, unlike most other robot lawnmowers, you can use the Landroid’s battery with other Worx power tools. I used the Worx Landroid on my yard for several weeks to see how it would perform. Here’s what I liked and didn’t like about this robot lawnmower.

Price and availability

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud first went on sale in February 2026. Worx makes three versions: the WR310, which can cover up to 1/4 acre, is $1,199; the WR320, which can handle up to 1/2 an acre is $1,799, and the WR340, good for a full acre, is $2,299.

However, I’ve seen all models for sale; for example, the WR310 was available for $999 at the time of this writing.

What I liked

Easy setup

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud is part of the latest generation of robot lawnmowers, and was the easiest to set up of all the models I tested. No more installing boundary wires, or even a separate tower for the lawnmower to get a GPS signal. Now, everything is contained in the lawnmower itself, so all you need to do is set up its charging station. It’s almost as easy as setting up one of the best robot vacuums.

After that (and some firmware updates), I sent the Landroid out into my yard to start mowing. It effortlessly mapped my yard without any intervention on my behalf. The company also provides a small patterned temporary border, which you can set up around flower beds so that the robot knows to avoid them during its initial scan.

It’s a strong mower

Worx says that the model I tested can tackle slopes of up to 17º (a 30% grade). I first tried the Landroid on my front yard, which has about a 20- to 30º slope, and while it did ok in the middle of the lawn, it struggled around the periphery, where it had trouble turning and then getting back up the yard. Its large wheels would just spin in place, digging holes in the dirt. (Worx does make a 4WD mower, which can handle grades of up to 40%.

However, it had no trouble in my much flatter back yard, and easily drove over divots, where the Sunseeker X3 Plus had trouble when I tested it last year. I also created a small ramp, and raised it up to 17º, and the Worx was able to drive up with no problems.

You can also program the Landroid to mow in several patterns, such as diagonal lines, a checkerboard, or a diamond; I also liked that, after mowing the bulk of the yard, it then went and trimmed all of the edges. I still had to go and tidy up things with a string trimmer, but it was nice to see the mower pay attention to this detail.

Good object recognition

The Landroid’s vision system did an above-average job at navigating obstacles, though it wasn’t entirely consistent. For example, it would deftly maneuver around tennis balls, jump ropes, and other kids' toys left in the yard, but then would drive over my dog's bone without a thought. It also made a nasty grating sound as the mower’s blades whacked it when doing so. It’s a good thing the blades are easy to replace.

Unlike some other robot lawnmowers I tested, such as the Sunseeker X3 Plus I tested last year, the Worx app doesn’t tell you if there’s a particular object in your yard; it just shows up on the map as an unmowed area. It would be nice to be able to see just what it avoided.

What I didn’t like

Polarizing Design

I'll admit, this is a bit of a nitpick, but the Vision Cloud’s design can best be described as utilitarian. It’s very angular, with all sorts of bumps and protrusions for the cutting deck, RTK system, cameras, and battery compartment. The mower’s display is functional — it looks like an old, oversized digital alarm clock, which you control using membrane-style buttons below. It gets the job done, but it’s not going to win any beauty contests.

Apart from aesthetics, all of the Landroid’s nooks and crannies are havens for errant bits of pollen, grass clippings, and more — especially around the battery compartment. I had to frequently brush it clear of debris. Fortunately, the compartment's rim is raised, and has a gasket to seal it from the elements.

Limited battery life

One of the unique things about the Landroid is that it has a removable battery, which you can use in other Worx products. If you’re going to buy cordless power tools, it’s best to stick to a single system. So, when you store the mower for the winter, you can still make use of its battery in the Worx power snow shovel, for instance.

However, the capacity of the 4Ah battery is pretty small. After mowing my 0.02-acre yard (about 870 square feet), its battery life had dropped to 36%. So, if you have a larger lawn, it may take the Landroid a few passes to cover everything.

Bottom Line

If you have a smallish lawn and don’t want to be hassled with mowing it, the Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is definitely worth a look, especially if you have other Worx battery-powered products. The mower was easy to set up, did a pretty good job at avoiding objects in the yard, and its battery can be used in other Worx power tools.

We haven’t tested them yet, but in the same price bracket as the Worx is the Mammotion Yuka mini and the Segway Navimow i2 AWD Robotic Lawn Mower. Both offer a similar setup process and can cover the same amount of area, but can theoretically handle steeper grades of 45% (24°).

Robot lawnmowers still aren’t cheap compared to traditional mowers — you can get a battery-powered push mower for a third of the price — but they are becoming more affordable, and more capable than ever.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower
• I tried the Eufy E15 for my first spring mow — it’s good, but has a serious navigation problem
• Best robot lawnmowers of CES

Worried you need to spend big dollars for a luscious lawn to ensure you are not ‘lawn shamed’ by your neighbors? Think again.

The reality is you can have a luscious lawn on a budget without spending out on expensive tools and lawn feed. Here, I delve into 7 ways you can have a stunning lawn for less, but be prepared to put in some work.

1. Weed it

One element that lets all lawns down is a patch full of weeds. But they really don’t need to ruin your lawn. Whether you struggle with dandelions or crabgrass. The ideal time to capture them is when they are young. This will help prevent seeds from spreading, and the problem of pulling up part of your lawn with the weed.

Dandelions have deep tap roots, which means you’re going to have to delve a bit deeper than some other weeds to remove them, but a simple tool should help you out. If you don’t already have one lurking in your garden shed, I recommend buying a simple dandelion weeder, like Linatikou’s Weed Puller Tool, $8 at Amazon.

However, you could also opt for a hori hori knife, which can be used elsewhere in the garden. Yang’s Hori Hori Garden Knife is $8 at Amazon, with a 50% discount.

Don't wait any longer, though, to get weeding. Spring is the ideal time to dig out those weeds before they flower and set seed.

2. Promote thick and strong growth

Another way to prevent weeds, such as dandelions and crabgrass, is to keep your lawn a little longer than usual. Keeping your lawn about 2 to 3 inches in length will help keep the soil cool, reduce the risk of seed germination, and weed growth.

When grass is on the short side, more sunlight reaches the soil, creating the perfect conditions for weed germination.

Apart from managing weeds, experts advise following the one-third rule when mowing. Rather than mowing your lawn too short, remove only one-third of its height. This prevents the grass from becoming stressed and encourages denser, more luscious growth.

3. Fill in bare patches

If you’ve removed any weeds or spotted other bare patches, it’s simple to fill in the gaps. I recommend using this quick 5-minute fix for a patch-free lawn.

Take a tool, such as a garden trowel or a hori hori knife, and score the soil to disturb the surface. Give it a light watering and then scatter some grass seeds on top, before giving it a light covering with top soil. If you’re anything like me, you should be able to find everything you need in your garden shed.

4. Leave your grass clippings

To add valuable nutrients to your lawn, don’t clear up your grass clippings. Instead of raking them up, leave them to break down and release nutrients — such as phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium — back into the soil. This simple hack will save you from buying lawn feeds.

Rather than leaving the grass clippings where they land, it’s best to rake them over to avoid leaving clumps of clippings that may smother your lawn. And if they are wet, dry them out before spreading them over your lawn. While they are in place, they’ll also help to prevent weeds from emerging.

Apart from prompting strong growth, grass clippings are composed of 85% water, and once they break down, they release moisture back into the soil. Although your lawn will still benefit from water, especially when the weather is dry, it will reduce the amount of time needed for watering.

5. Remove obstructions

Your lawn may not be growing to its full potential if it is overshadowed by shrubs and trees. If your grass doesn’t get enough sunlight, it won’t be able to photosynthesize as effectively, resulting in weaker growth.

I notice this common problem around the edges of my lawn, where trees and shrubs overhang and take away precious sunlight.

The easiest way to solve these issues is to either cut back branches with a pair of pruning shears to allow sunlight to shine through or dig up the underperforming area of grass and underplant it with shade-loving plants instead.

6. Edge your lawn

It’s surprising how a few minutes can make all the difference to your lawn. I find going round the edges with a lawn edging tool is one of the quickest ways to smarten up its overall look.If you don’t already own an edging tool, ask your friendly neighbor if you can borrow one, or search online for free garden tools. You could try Craigslist’s free section or FreeCycle. Other places to search include Buy Nothing groups on Facebook, community gardens and tool-lending programs, such as a local library or municipal office.

7. Make a homemade fertilizer

Save your spent coffee grounds and create your own homemade organic lawn fertilizer. Coffee grounds contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which help promote healthy grass growth. It acts as a slow-release fertilizer, providing sustained nutrients for your lawn.

You can add coffee grounds to your lawn at any point during the growing season. It’s best to let them dry out before scattering them, and them spread them about one cup to one square yard. Try to cover your lawn as evenly as possible to avoid the grinds landing in clumps — using a rake should help.

If you have a compost pile, you can also add spent coffee grinds into the mix, and apply this directly as a top dressing to your lawn.

There are plenty of other ways that coffee grounds can be used in you yard, including helping hydrangeas develop deep blue blooms.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips to revive dead grass and make your lawn green again
• How often should you mow the lawn? We asked the experts
• Stop mowing your lawn this way — an expert says you could be killing your grass

With the warmer temperatures, your lawn has come out of dormancy and will need regular mowing. And although it’s tempting to get outside in the fresh air and trim those green blades back, you could be unintentionally ruining your prized patch.

Instead of being proud of a beautiful, lush and healthy-looking lawn, you could be making a big lawncare mistake and mowing your lawn too much or too little. What's more, it's a budget-friendly lawn-care hack that won't cost you a dime.

Why over-mowing is bad for your lawn

“Over-mowing puts your lawn under real stress. When too much of the blade is removed at once, the grass loses a large portion of the surface it uses to produce energy,” explains Sarah Bendrick, landscape contractor, TV personality and spokesperson at STIHL. “That weakens the plant and slows down both top growth and root development.”

If you cut your grass too short, your lawn won’t react favorably, and you’ll often see browning, thinning, and patchy areas. She also adds that it will become susceptible to weeds, disease, and drought.

What happens if you don’t mow enough?

Despite the problems caused by over-mowing your lawn, leaving it too long between cuts can also upset the balance.

“The grass can grow tall and uneven, and the lower portions get shaded out and start to thin,” says Bendrick.

“When you finally mow, you usually end up taking off too much at once, which shocks the lawn and can leave it looking brown and stressed. It can also produce heavy clippings that sit on top of the lawn, blocking sunlight and airflow.”

It seems there’s a fine line between getting the cut just right and achieving the Godilocks moment.

Will it cause long-term damage to your lawn?

Luckily, Bendrick shares that in most cases, the damage starts as short-term stress. “A healthy lawn can bounce back if you correct your mowing habits quickly.”

But if you continue to mow your lawn too often or not enough, it can turn into a long-term problem. “You may end up with weaker roots, thinner turf, and a lawn that struggles with weeds, pests, and disease throughout the season.”

How to fix an over-mown lawn

The best way to correct an over-mown lawn is to be patient and slow things down. Bendrick suggests, “Raise your mower height and follow the one-third rule, only removing a small portion of the blade with each cut. Give the grass time to rebuild its strength between mows.”

Apart from adjusting how you mow your lawn, Bendrick says that your lawn will benefit from consistent watering and a light feed.

What’s more, removing debris and keeping the edges of your lawn tidy will also improve air flow and overall health.

How to care for an overgrown lawn

Just like when dealing with a lawn that’s been cut too much, you also need to exercise patience when dealing with long blades.

Instead of mowing the grass short in one go, Bendrick says you should bring the height down in stages. “Start with a higher mower setting and gradually lower it over a series of cuts, always sticking to the one-third rule. This prevents shock and reduces the risk of browning.”

Once you’ve mown your lawn, she suggests removing the clippings if they are heavy, or raking them over, so they don’t smother the grass below.

How often should you mow your lawn?

“Mowing frequency is less about the calendar and more about how fast your lawn is growing,” says Bendrick.

There are three elements that count — weather, rainfall, and grass type. But as a general rule she says most lawns do well when maintained around 2.5 to 3 inches in height, though that can vary by species.

“A good rule is to mow before the grass gets excessively tall, rather than waiting until it becomes overgrown. During peak growing periods, that often means mowing about once a week, and less often when growth slows,” she explains.

What adjustments can you make to encourage a thriving lawn?

A strong lawn doesn’t happen overnight. Bendrick says it comes from consistent, thoughtful care. Here she shares her top four tips for a thriving lawn.

1. Keep your mower blades sharp so you are cutting cleanly rather than tearing the grass.

2. Mow at the proper height for your grass type and avoid removing too much at once.

3. Water deeply but not too frequently to encourage deeper roots.

4. Seasonal fertilization, along with practices like aeration and overseeding, can help keep the lawn dense and resilient.

By staying on top of these four basic lawn care tasks, Bendrick says your lawn should be better equipped to handle stress and maintain a healthy, even appearance.

Lawncare essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• This is the reason why your lawn mower grass cuttings are clumping — and the simple fix to solve it
• How to use coffee grounds as lawn fertilizer — 5 tips for a lush lawn
• The secret to a lush green lawn is this $3 bathroom item — and you might already own it

With summer fast approaching, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy, especially if you're hosting backyard gatherings.

And while you might have taken steps to prepare your lawn during the winter months, the cold snap can affect the growth of your grass. This is because turfgrass usually goes into a dormant state in order to conserve energy and survive winter temperatures. This essential process effectively halts growth until the weather becomes warmer.

But if you want to ensure a healthy, greener lawn just in time for summer, you'll need to do this one critical gardening task in May. In fact, doing this can make all the difference to the overall appearance of your lawn. So what is this key job?

Don't forget to scarify your lawn in May

Essentially, scarification involves tearing up the top layer of soil to remove dead grass, heavy thatch, moss, and other debris that have built up on your lawn. This is similar to the process of dethatching, that aims to remove the thatch layer that builds up between the soil and the lower parts of the grass .

The key difference here is that scarifying is a more intense process that gets further deep into the ground, cutting grooves into the soil to remove moss and other build-up. This also allows adequate aeration to the soil.

And while a thin layer of thatch benefits grass, too much creates a barrier that prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots, effectively suffocating the lawn.

What’s more, this can cause your lawn to become spongy and prone to disease, ultimately ruining your lush, healthy grass.

Think of scarification as a deep cleansing process for your lawn. This allows the grass to "breathe" again, helping the spread of healthy development by allowing fresh air, water, and essential nutrients to enter the soil and be better absorbed.

May is a crucial time for your lawn, particularly if you have warm-season grasses.

After the dormant winter, the grass enters its growth phase, making it a critical time for the root zone to receive oxygen, water, and vital nutrients.

In addition, May is when the soil in your yard will have warmed enough to encourage active root development — making this the perfect opportunity to tend to your lawn and help it thrive. What’s more, if your lawn has been compacted with dead grass, thatch or other debris, it will be unable to absorb vital nutrients — preventing it from reaching its full potential.

How to scarify your lawn

To do this crucial job, you’ll need to have the right tools. Be sure to have the best gardening gloves, a lawn mower, a leaf rake, a scarifier (for larger lawns), or a springbok rake for smaller yards.

First, gardening experts advise watering your lawn a few days before scarifying. This is because watering the lawn prevents the soil from drying out, which can cause the turf to tear during the process. Next, you’ll need to lower your mower's cutting height to cut your grass short, aiming for a length of approximately 2-3cm. This allows for the blades to reach the debris properly without obstruction.

Use a scarifying tool or a springbok rake, depending on your lawn's size, to start removing heavy moss and thatch. Move the tool steadily across the lawn, allowing the blades or tines to lift the debris. For best results, it’s recommended to work in one direction, but if the thatch is particularly heavy, repeat the process at a slight angle.

Once you’ve finished, you’ll need to immediately collect the excess debris with a sturdy leaf rake. Try not to leave it on the lawn for too long, as this will block light, air, and nutrients — defeating the purpose.

Don’t forget to seed and feed the grass afterwards to give it a better chance to thrive. Spread grass seed over patches and apply a seasonal fertilizer to give it that healthy boost for the summer.

So if you want lush grass this season, you’d better get out and do this crucial job before it’s too late. For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's and 7 budget hacks for a stunning green lawn.

More from Tom's Guide

• No chemicals: 3 natural ways to remove dandelions for a weed-free lawn
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

A tired, uneven lawn overrun with weeds can be turned around. In most cases, the issue isn’t poor soil or bad grass — it’s a handful of common care habits that are easy to correct.

Mowing too low, watering little and often, and neglecting feeding routines all weaken turf over time. When grass is undernourished or stressed, it loses its ability to crowd out weeds, fight off disease, and keep that rich green appearance.

Noticeable recovery doesn’t require specialists or expensive treatments. With the right approach grass responds quickly, often within a few weeks. Focus on giving it what it actually needs, and the difference becomes clear.

Here are eleven practical tips that have the greatest impact.

More from Tom's Guide

• No chemicals: 3 natural ways to remove dandelions for a weed-free lawn
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

Everywhere I turn, I see people using robot vacuums, and although I’m perfectly happy with my Shark upright vacuum cleaner, it does make me think whether my next purchase will give me extra time to crash out on the couch.

What’s more, robots are also taking over outside in our yards. Instead of seeing your neighbors diligently mowing their lawns, you’re more likely to spot them sipping a cold drink while their robot lawnmower does all the hard work.

However, robot lawnmowers are a big investment. And despite their small stature, you can expect to pay at least $1,000 for a robot lawnmower, with Segway’s latest Navimow X4 Series setting you back at least $2,299 at Amazon.

You need to do some serious thinking before you invest in a lawnmower to make sure it can tackle your lawn. With this in mind, I approached lawn care experts to ask when your lawn isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

1. When a robot lawnmower isn't the best choice

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” says Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna. “Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, adds that it’s not just about awkward areas, “Robot mowers work best on reasonably even, well-defined grass areas. If your lawn is on the wild side, heavily obstructed or like a meadow, you’ll see the limitations of a robot mower quickly.”

2. Bumps can be a problem

Whether a robot lawnmower can handle a bumpy lawn will depend on the model and a few other factors.

“Most robot mowers can handle some minor bumps and slightly uneven ground," Davis said. "But if it’s properly lumpy, with ankle-rolling divots, you’ll end up with patchy cuts, scalping and a potentially stuck mower."

However, he does suggest that if your lawn is uneven, a layer of topsoil can help rectify the problem.

3. Steep slopes are a challenge

The same is true for sloping lawns; it depends on the mower's capabilities. While you can expect a standard robot lawn mower to handle inclines of 20-30%, according to Davis, others are designed to cut steeper lawns.

Caleca adds that Husqvarna’s 435 iQ series Automower is designed to handle up to a 70% slope, while the brand’s iQ models are rated for up to 45%.

However, Gene Caballero, co-founder at GreenPal, says you will pay for this functionality. “There are some mowers that are specifically designed for steeper grades, but they are very, very expensive and more for commercial use.”

And of course, it’s cutting capability also depends on the conditions. “If the grass is slightly damp, you run the risk of it slipping. Any edges on slopes can also cause problems for your mower,” says Davis.

4. You have a small lawn

If you have a small lawn, you might think it’s not worth investing in a robot lawnmower, and you are probably right. “Robot mowers are recommended for large lawns and grassed areas that take a lot of maintaining. If it takes you 5-10 minutes to mow your lawn, a robot is probably not needed,” says Davis.

Instead, he suggests a smarter splurge would be investing in a cordless mower.

However, it all depends on whether you want to give up mowing your lawn. If you don’t want to call on the help of a lawn mowing service, a robot lawnmower could be the best choice for you.

5. Your lawn is split into sections

If, like me, your lawn is split into sections with paths and gravel areas, you may be wondering whether a robot lawnmower can cope with the layout.

“Paths, patios and graveled areas can be tricky. While some robot mowers can handle multiple zones, you’d need to be very careful when you’re setting it up, using boundary wires or the mower’s mapping,” says Davis.

Issues such as gravel paths can also stop a mower or damage its blades if it continues across them. “There’s also a risk of stones being flung by the blades and causing nearby damage,” he adds.

However, if you have a completed layout and pathways between lawn sections, Davis says, “It is manageable but not seamless. If your lawn is fragmented, the time you spend setting the mower on the right track might take longer than just mowing the lawn yourself.”

Caleca explains that handling multiple zones and surfaces is an area where robotic mowing technology has advanced quickly. With this in mind, we can look forward to these challenges being overcome in the future.

6. Your dog has dug holes in your lawn

While small divots are usually not an issue, as they can be filled in, Davis says, “if your lawn resembles a minefield, it can cause problems when mowing.”

And if you have a playful dog that likes to bury its toys in your neatly mowed lawn, it could be too much of a challenge for a robot lawnmower.

Davis adds, “The robot’s wheels could get stuck, your cut could end up being uneven, but it could cause blade damage if there are any rocks dug up, before your mower cuts your lawn."

7. Your lawn has poor drainage and gets water-logged

The general advice among the lawn experts is to never mow a water-logged lawn with either a robot or a standard mower. Davis, says it’s especially important to avoid using a robot mower, as the wheels are likely to spin and cause ruts, the mower will get stuck, and it will result in a poor overall cutting performance.

However, Caleco says that robotic mowers can operate in wet grass, but extremely wet conditions will result in slipping or rutting, regardless of the brand.

Although he explains that some robotic mowers with advanced systems can operate during rainfall and can integrate with weather data to help automate those decisions and pause mowing until conditions improve.

How to improve your lawn’s drainage
Drainage in your lawn can be fixed by improving aeration and filling in uneven surfaces where water pools.

The final cut

Before you invest in a robot lawnmower, remember that not all lawns are the same. You need to consider your lawn’s size, its gradient and any challenges, such as split areas. Then, you can decide whether a robot lawnmower is the right solution for your yard, and if so, match one that’s compatible with your needs.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Segway Navimow i110 robot lawn mower review: Perfectly trimmed grass without lifting a finger
• I went hands-on with Roborock’s new RockMow Z1 robot mower — these 3 features are game-changers
• The Sunseeker X3 Plus robot lawnmower has been trimming my yard all summer - 3 things I like and 1 I don't

Dandelions spread fast once they establish in your lawn. A single plant produces a white seed head containing hundreds of seeds that disperse with the slightest breeze, scattering across your yard and into neighbors' lawns. Within weeks, one dandelion becomes dozens.

The key to controlling dandelions is removing them before those seed heads form and spread. Once dandelions go to seed, they're extremely difficult to manage because their deep taproots regenerate even when you pull the visible plant. A small piece of root left in the soil grows back into a full plant.

Timing matters more than method when dealing with dandelions. Here are three natural ways to eliminate dandelions and how to keep them from coming back.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

April is the perfect time to get out in your yard and get your lawn ready for summer. With all that the weather has thrown at us over the past few months, it’s likely your patch of green is looking forlorn, with a few brown and bald patches that need repair.

But it won’t take long to get your lawn looking lush and back to its former self — all it needs is a quick five-minute fix, and it will reward you with a lawn to be proud of once more.

How to fix a bare lawn patch in five minutes

Tom Strowlger @garden_with_tom, shares in an Instagram post how to fix a bare patch in your lawn in 5 minutes. So, whether you are short of time or a reluctant gardener, there’s really no excuse why you can’t get out on your grass and bring it back to full health.

Strowlger describes this method as “a quick and simple way to repair bare patches in your lawn." To start, he says you need to "disturb the top soil — the surface soil of the patch.”

He begins by using a small trowel to score the bare soil horizontally, diagonally and vertically. Once the soil has been disturbed, he says, "Give it a quick sprinkle of water to make the soil sticky."

You're then ready to sow the grass seed over the bare patch, with Strowlger recommending a quality lawn seed, such as Scotts EZ Seed.

To ensure the seed is sown evenly, Strowlger uses a seed spreader, similar to Garden Guru's Handheld Seed Spreader, $18 at Amazon.

Once you've sown the seed, you're now ready to cover it with topsoil or a lawn dressing. Strowgler says the top soil will snuggle the seed in between the layers, which will keep it moist and happy.

And he finishes, "Then you’ll have germination over the coming weeks, repairing the bare patches in your lawn."

If you thought repairing a bare patch in a lawn was tricky, this 5-minute method will have you racing out to your yard to try it out.

How to care for your lawn after seeding

The top tip to remember is to avoid walking over the freshly seeded lawn until the new grass has established, and try and keep children away, if you can!

Noah Mabey, Senior Gardener at Thornbridge Hall and Horticultural Adviser to Platinum Spas Hot Tubs, also advises, "Keep the patches lightly watered, and don't mow for 3-4 weeks until the new growth establishes."

And he adds, "April is one of the most rewarding months in the garden. Spend a little time on your lawn now, and it will repay you with a green, healthy carpet throughout summer."

If you'd prefer not to worry about patchy your grass, you could try growing a 'lazy' lawn.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• Best robot lawnmowers of CES
• Expert reveals the kitchen waste item that can help you create a green and healthy lawn
• The secret to a lush green lawn is this $3 bathroom item — and you might already own it

Between all the yardwork I do — planting, raking, mowing, weeding, pruning, repairing planter boxes — my work gloves take a real beating. Normally, I go through a pair a year, because I typically buy the cheapest pair I can find at the checkout line at the hardware store. Sadly, I don’t take advice from our own guide on the best gardening gloves!

For the past few weeks, I’ve been testing out a new pair of gloves from Cross Point Gear, which promise greater durability, but also offer a lot of flexibility while also being waterproof and breathable. While they’re not cheap, they have held up very well.

Price and design

Cross Point Gear sent me a pair of its Sport Gloves; the company has two other lines, the Pro Wool and Boneshaker.

The Sport Gloves sell for $54, and come in five colors (black, gray, safety orange, neon green, and jungle) and five sizes (small, medium, large, XL and XXL). I went with the safety orange because far too often, I’ve taken off a pair of gloves in my yard and forgot where I left them, so the bright color makes them easier to spot.

The gloves are made of three layers: The exterior, which is 95% nylon, is water-resistant; a middle layer made of waterproof-breathable Artex, and an inner liner that’s 79% acrylic and 15% polyester.

They’re comfortable

The Sport Gloves fit me, well, like a glove. I opted for a large pair, and they fit snugly, but not too tightly around my hands and fingers. The palms of the gloves have black grippy nubs, which made it easier to hold on to tools and other objects, even when they were wet.

One of the toughest tasks I used them for was building a raised garden bed in an area of my yard that had been overgrown with English Ivy. Not only did the gloves give me a good grip when ripping out all the roots, but also offered me the dexterity I needed when holding my rake and shovel. They also let me comfortably hold a screw between my index finger and thumb as I drove it into some wood siding.

They’ve kept my hands warm and dry

In March, the weather where I live has ranged from unseasonably warm — temperatures in the 80s — to frigidly cold. While I’ve avoided working outdoors in freezing temperatures, I have been out when it’s been in the low- to mid-40s, so having a warm pair of work gloves has been essential. The gloves kept my hands at a comfortable temperature and, even on hotter days, my hands didn’t feel too sweaty, either.

I don’t have to take them off to use my phone

While I wouldn’t want to type out full emails while wearing the gloves, I was able to send short text messages, open apps, and use my iPhone pretty easily. So, I didn’t have to remove them from my hands to answer calls or take photos with my phone.

Fabric can get caught on sharp objects

The weave of the exterior of the glove is a bit stretchy — you can see the inner layer of the glove if you spread your thumb and index finger apart — so you have to be a bit careful when handling sharper objects. I learned this the hard way when I tried to unspool a roll of chicken wire. A prong got caught on one of the gloves, and pulled out a bit of thread.

If you’re planning to do stuff like this, or use the gloves to play with your cats, I might suggest something a little more heavy-duty, or ones with a smoother exterior, like leather.

Bottom line

At $54 a pair, the CrossPoint Waterproof Knit Gloves are a bit of an investment, but they seem to be holding up pretty well so far. You do have to be careful around pointy things, but otherwise, they could be a good addition to your outdoor toolkit.

More from Tom's Guide

• I bought the viral Grampa's Weeder and it's my favorite gardening tool
• Forget fertilizer — this kitchen staple could be the secret to a bumper tomato crop
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works

Spring is officially here and that means it's time to head out into your yard to breathe life back into your lawn. Having suffered through the cold, winter months, your neglected grass is ready to enjoy the sunshine, as long as you help it. Begin now and you've got a head start on the rest of the summer.

But, you need to make sure you're doing the right things. And if you've found yourself here, you're also looking to avoid doing the wrong things. Fortunately, I've asked gardening experts to reveal exactly what they'd advise not doing to your lawn in March and what you should be prioritizing instead.

So, here's how to streamline your lawn care regime, including the tasks you need to avoid and the ones you should be incorporating into your routine. Follow this expert advice and you'll be reaping the rewards of a luscious lawn in no time.

3 things you should never do to your lawn

1. Mow too early

The sun is shining and you can hear your neighbors starting up their mowers, but wait. Bennett Barrier, CEO of DFW Turf Solutions, says it's not quite the right time to mow: "Your grass is still emerging from its dormancy and the root system has not stabilized. Cutting now scalps the blades and puts stress on roots that are just beginning to push again."

"Wait until soil temperatures are 45-55 degrees for cool-season grasses and 60-65 degrees for warm season grasses, when the grass blades reach 4 inches tall," explains Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love.

If you want to make sure your grass has a chance to grow, wait a little longer for the sunshine to work its magic before you grab that cobweb-riddled mower out of the shed.

2. Forget to scarify your lawn

Whilst you shouldn't be mowing quite yet, you don't want to neglect scarifying your lawn first. As gardening expert Bennett explains: "Thatch accumulates throughout the winter and if you do not pull it out, water and nutrients lie on top of the surface and never actually reach the soil. I've seen lawns that were fine from the street but were totally starved underneath."

Craig Elworthy, founder of natural lawn care subscription company Lawnbright, says you should be doing this instead: "Don't do a hard de-thatch, as it could damage the existing turf. Instead focus on gently getting the grass blades to stand up. This helps allow sunlight to reach the soil, which helps your lawn 'wake up' from dormancy and recover quickly from winter."

3. Forget to water it

Another knee jerk reaction when we finally see a bit of sunshine in spring is to get watering and, this time, Bennett says you're right to do so: "March is cool so it doesn't look necessary but the soil dries out faster than you'd think. Grass that goes without water now comes in thin and weak once temperatures climb."

Craig does advises though that you shouldn't start watering on a schedule in March: "We're still in the spring moisture season with rain and snowmelt. Watering now creates weak, shallow roots and can invite early fungal problems. Only start watering when the lawn is actively growing and you can start to see signs of drought stress – lingering footprints, or dry soil."

Top tips for lawn care in spring

While those are three things you shouldn't be doing to your lawn in March, there's also lawn care jobs you should be doing, according to the experts.

1. Test your soil pH

The pH balance of your lawn is a fragile ecosystem that dictates whether your lawn is ready to absorb nutrients and promote growth. If it's not at a certain level, your lawn won't grow as well as it could do.

For this, Bennett explains: "If your pH is below 6.0 or rises above 7.0, then your grass blocks nutrients no matter how much fertilizer you put down. Get a test kit from any garden center and if it reads low work lime in at about 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet."

2. Walk your yard

March and early spring is a great time to assess the damage of the winter months, and as Craig explains, it presents the perfect opportunity to "walk your yard". Fortunately, that's no hard task when the sun is finally beginning to shine, but it's a very important and early part of your spring lawn care.

Craig adds: "Look for any debris from the winter and get it off your lawn," which should also lead you perfectly onto our next top tip for March lawn care.

3. Tackle bare spots

Bare spots can appear on your lawn over the winter where grass has become damaged, thin, or died completely. For this, Bennett advises overseeding those thin patches that you find: "Rake the area lightly to give the top layer a bit of loosening, press seed into soil to direct contact and water daily until you see germination. That typically takes 7 to 14 days depending on your type of grass."

4. Apply pre-emergent weed control

Craig advises that in March, it's a little too soon to use fertilizer on your lawn. Instead, he advises that: "you will get benefits of suppressing weeds later in the summer by applying pre-emergent now."

For the best results, Bennett reveals that you should add the weed control before soil temps reach 55°F: "That's the exact point that crabgrass begins germinating. I use a soil thermometer to monitor it on a daily basis in early March. Miss that window and you're dealing with weeds instead of grass for the rest of the summer."

5. Aerate your lawn

Finally, Steve says you'll want to check if your lawn needs aerating: "Depending on the grass type, you may need to aerate every year or every 2-3 years, and this is an important task because it fights against soil compact and is key for keeping your grass healthy."

But, how can you tell if it needs aeration? Well, The Grass People reveals it could be used a lot all year round, it may show signs of drying out easily over summer and getting waterlogged in the wetter months, and you might also notice a build-up of moss over winter.

More from Tom's Guide

• This viral hack will save you serious space for your spring planting — and it'll cost you less than $20
• 5 plants you need to prune in March for stronger spring growth
• Gardening expert shares the easiest way to prepare your flower beds and banish weeds this spring

Lawn care takes a rest while the cold, dark winter keeps us all indoors and using the best space heaters to try and stay warm and cozy. But now the evenings are getting lighter and the sun is (occasionally) appearing you're probably starting to look out at your lawn and contemplate that first mow of the year.

But as we start to get the yard tools out from the shed and prepare to set things right, it's crucial to be aware of common mistakes that can actually damage your lawn in the long run. These disasters tend to happen not with dramatic flourish, but through well-intentioned mistakes repeated over time. With spring beckoning, now's the perfect moment to reassess your routine practices that might be harming rather than helping your lawn.

The signs of a struggling lawn will often appear gradually — thinning patches, persistent weeds, or grass that never quite thrives despite your best efforts.

What makes these mistakes particularly troublesome is how reasonable they seem. Daily watering sounds caring, short grass looks tidy, and extra fertilizer seems generous. Yet these common practices can actually weaken your lawn's resilience and overall health.

Here are five yard care habits that could be doing more harm than good, plus what you can do instead. Make a note of these — print them out and stick them to your shed wall if it helps — and keep them in mind throughout the spring and summer months.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell if my soil is compacted and needs aeration?

Look for these signs: water pools on the surface rather than soaking in, grass thins despite proper care, the soil feels hard under foot, or you struggle to push a screwdriver into the ground. If your lawn exhibits these symptoms, aeration will likely help improve its health.

How do I know which type of grass I have in my lawn?

Look at blade width, color, growth pattern, and texture. Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass have medium-fine blades and deep green color, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda tend to have finer blades and lighter color.

Is it better to water my lawn in the morning or evening?

Morning watering (between 4-10 AM) is generally best. Early watering gives grass time to dry before evening, reducing disease risk, while avoiding the midday sun when much of the water would evaporate before reaching the roots. Evening watering can promote fungal growth if grass remains wet overnight.

And there we have it! You've now learned the 5 common lawn care mistakes that are killing your yard. While you're here, why not take a look at some of our other helpful gardening guides?

For a beautiful garden, check out 7 colorful flowers to plant in April for a vibrant summer garden and 9 perennial flowers to plant in April for blooms year after year. And if you're wanting to banish weeds forever, we've got you covered.

More from Tom's Guide

• Homeowners are being urged to use tin cans in their gardens (really) — here's why
• Target's spring sale knocks 50% off patio furniture and garden essentials — 15 deals I'd buy for my backyard
• Le Creuset just dropped the color of the summer — and here's what's already in my basket

Winter de-icing salt keeps driveways and sidewalks safe, but it destroys grass. Salt spray from passing cars, runoff from melting snow, and direct application near walkways accumulate in soil and kill grass roots. The damage becomes obvious in spring when brown, patchy areas appear while the rest of your lawn greens up.

Salt-damaged grass can recover with proper soil treatment and reseeding. Spring rain dilutes some salt naturally, but concentrated buildup in soil near roads and driveways requires active intervention. Amending soil and reseeding damaged areas restores lawns before summer.

Here's how to revive a lawn destroyed by winter salt damage.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips for making your grass greener than ever this year
• Don't plant grass seed until you've checked your soil temperature — here's how to do it
• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now

With heavy snow and severe weather across the U.S. this winter, anyone remotely interested in their lawn is likely worried about how it will withstand the onslaught.

Snow, ice, rain and cold temperatures — that once luscious lawn has been subject to extreme elements. However, grass is tough, and if treated correctly, your lawn will come back to life in time for the warmer climes.

Here, I’ve called on the expertise of Luke Taylor, co-author of Lawns: An Complicated Guide, for his expertise on how snow damages grass and how to care for your lawn after bad winter weather.

How does snow damage your lawn?

You might be surprised to learn that snow itself isn’t usually the problem. Taylor explains it’s what happens under and after it. “Prolonged snow cover can block light and airflow, weaken grass plants, and create damp conditions where disease can thrive.”

Another common issue is compaction from foot traffic or frozen or snow-covered grass. “Frozen blades and crowns are brittle and easily damaged,“ explains Taylor, “When snow melts unevenly, it can also leave the lawn waterlogged, stressing roots and reducing oxygen in the soil.”

What should you avoid doing?

Whether you're a big kid or a little kid, the temptation is to make snow angels on a snowy lawn. But Taylor warns: “The biggest thing to avoid is walking or playing on the lawn while it’s frozen or snow-covered.”

And it's the same story if your lawn is frosty. It's always best not to walk on a frosty lawn.

And there’s a good reason why. “Grass plants are far more fragile at this point, and damage that seems minor in winter often shows up clearly in spring,” he says. Apart from keeping off the lawn, he also warns against piling up snow on the grass when you clear paths and driveways. “This concentrates cold, moisture, and often salt in one area, increasing the risk of die-back.”

Instead, he says, “ Let the lawn rest; winter is a recovery period, not a working one.”

Can path salt and de-icers harm grass?

The answer is a clear yes. Taylor explains that traditional rock salt and chemical de-icers draw moisture out of plant tissue and can scorch grass once the snow melts. The salts can also wash into the soil.

He also warns that repeated use can affect soil structure and microbial life. “If de-icing is necessary, use products labelled as lawn or pet-safe, and apply sparingly. Where possible, grit, sand, or fine gravel are gentler alternatives.”

Is it all bad news?

Rather than thinking that snow is bad news when it comes to a perfect lawn, it does have some benefits. “A consistent layer of snow acts like a natural blanket, insulating the grass and soil from extreme cold and drying winds. This protection can help prevent deeper frost penetration and reduce winter desiccation,” says Taylor.

However, he explains that problems tend to arise when snow lingers too long, it becomes compacted, or melts unevenly.

Can melting snow oversaturate the lawn?

When snow starts to melt, it’s more of a problem on heavy or compacted soil. “Rapid snowmelt can leave lawns saturated, pushing oxygen out of the root zone and slowing root function. In poorly drained areas, this can weaken grass and encourage moss or disease,” Taylor explains.

He adds that it’s best to avoid fixing the issue too quickly, as working wet soil can worsen compaction. Instead, he recommends addressing drainage issues once the ground has dried and warmed.

Is there a risk of snow mold?

Snow mold is a fungal lawn disease that damages or kills grass after the snow melts. Taylor explains that it occurs when grass is left long going into winter and is then covered by snow for extended periods, and that it appears as pale, matted patches going into spring.

If you’ve spotted snow mold on your lawn this winter, Taylor recommends following these lawn care tips to prevent it next year. “Keeping the lawn at a sensible height in autumn, removing excess leaf litter, and avoiding heavy nitrogen fertilisers late in the year all help reduce the risk.”

However, he adds, “In most cases, lawns recover naturally with improved airflow and warmer conditions.”

Top tips for helping a lawn recover after heavy snow?

If you’re a keen gardener, you’ll already know that patience is key, and Taylor says this one of his top tips when dealing with your lawn after heavy snow.

And he suggests, “Once the snow has gone and the ground has dried, gently brush or rake any matted areas to improve airflow.”

Although he advises against mowing your lawn until the grass is actively growing again.

“If the lawn looks tired, a light spring feed can help support recovery, but only once conditions are right. Above all, resist the urge to over-intervene — healthy lawns are remarkably resilient when given time.”

More from Tom's Guide

• Will walking on a frosty lawn ruin your grass? Here’s what the experts say
• I've lost too many plants to cold weather — garden experts share 3 tips to help them survive the winter
• 7 flood-tolerant plants to protect your yard from heavy rain

Your lawn looks peaceful under its blanket of snow, but something damaging might be happening beneath the surface. When snow sits on grass for weeks at a time, it creates the perfect conditions for a fungal disease called snow mold to develop and spread.

Most people don't discover snow mold until spring arrives and the snow melts, revealing circular patches of matted, discolored, dead-looking grass scattered across their lawn. By that point, the damage is done. Understanding what snow mold is and taking action now, even mid-winter, can minimize the damage to your grass.

Here's what you need to know about snow mold and what you can still do to protect your lawn.

More from Tom's Guide

• Never climb an icy roof to clear snow — here's the safe way to it
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn come Springtime
• Winter storms are coming — here's how to drain your sprinkler system

Another product launch from CES 2026? You bet. This time, though, we're heading straight out into our backyards come fall as we've spotted a whisper-quiet leaf blower, new to the market for 2026.

The T1 Tone essentially ticks all of our leaf-blowing woes — it's cordless, charges fast, has an adjustable shoulder strap, and it works at a noise level of less than 52 dB. That, BTW, is similar to the hum your refrigerator makes while it's on and the door is closed. Impressive to say the least.

This new product launch will be (literal) music to the ears of those who hate the job of tidying the leaves in the fall — it means you can finally listen to that podcast on normal volume while doing this job. Even better? With an integrated light, leaf blowing knows no time of day — you needn't get yours done early on in the day, come winter.

Tell your neighbor to thank me later and keep reading for more news on when you can purchase this mind-blowing (in more ways than one) new garden gadget.

For a quiet clean

Blowing the leaves away from your backyard or driveway has got to be up there with the most boring household chores. It sits right behind waiting for paint to dry for the next coat, and cleaning the oven. With the release of T1's Tone Leaf Blower, though, you can now pop your headphones in instead of your ear muffs and listen to your playlist while doing the chore you dislike the most.

Fitted with a rechargeable 5.0 Ah battery, it will last for an average of 50 minutes of use in Eco mode. It takes only 90 minutes to charge to 100%.

Yes, there are five modes to choose from, all differing in noise, too. Plus, it only requires one hand for use, so the other can relax (or wave to a neighbor). Other than the low noise, its second-best feature has to be its built-in nightlight, which means you can use it even in the dark.

What it lacks in noise, it makes up for in design — choose from green or gold and store it in your shed year-round, as it can withstand temperatures from 0°F to 140°F. Weight-wise, it's light enough to hold with just one hand, and even if you're a left-handed user, it's convenient.

Without ever compromising on power, this leaf blower can offer impressive air velocity speeds of 150mph. Yes, you read that right. Its blowing force can hit 25 Newtons, too. For reference, this is usually what you'd expect from a professional leaf blower.

Simply enough, it ticks all our boxes, and the price tag? $599.99, including the battery and shoulder strap.

What else to use it for?

We all know that leaf blowers go beyond just clearing stray leaves from your drive in fall, right? This one, thanks to its 50-minute battery life, low noise, and one-handed operation, can be used for clearing small amounts of snow from pathways in the winter. You can use it for blasting debris from your patio furniture in spring, ready for a deep clean, and in summer, for drying your car faster.

You could even take it over to family members' homes to give their driveways a quick clean, should they be unable to do it themselves. No hassle required fiddling around with cords. And you won't upset their neighbors, either. Especially handy if you live in an apartment.

Availability

You can already pre-order this leaf blower directly via T1. All that's required is a $100 deposit, and the remaining $499.99 will be charged to your account on August 26, 2026.

More from Tom's Guide

• How much laundry can you fit into a full load and still get your items clean?
• You could be ruining your washing machine without knowing it — try these 3 cheap hacks to extend its life
• This one item is your secret weapon against washing machine mold — and it's not vinegar or baking soda

Are robot lawnmowers about to have their day in the sun? At CES 2026, I’m seeing more models than ever — and more importantly, they look to be easier than ever to set up in your yard. Just a couple of years ago, you had to run a boundary wire all around your yard; last year, you only had to install up a GPS tower.

However, this year, we’re seeing new robot lawnmowers that do away with that as well; thanks to LiDar, combined with ever more sophisticated AI and vision systems, getting it up and running should be no more difficult than with a robot vacuum. And, when they're not mowing, some of these models can even act as sentries, patrolling your yard.

Aside from their tech, a lot of the lawnmowers — at least the top-end models — are all starting to adopt a similar design, one that looks kind of like a Formula One car, while lower-priced models have tended to retain a more bulbous shape.

Here are some of the more interesting robot vacuums that launched at CES.

Segway X4

Segway is launching five new robot lawnmowers (including one designed for golf courses, and another that starts at $999) but its flagship X4 really stands out for its performance. This four-wheel drive model has two front-wheel steering motors, which gives it zero-turn capabilities, so it’s more maneuverable than before, and it can climb up slopes of up to 40 degrees. A Traction Control System also helps to make sure that it doesn’t slip on wet grass.

The X4 also has a dual cutting deck with 12 blades in total that covers 17 inches, and has onboard network RTK, so you don’t need to set up a separate base station; the X4 can connect directly to satellites to navigate your yard, and has a 360-degree RGB vision system to detect and avoid objects. The X4 is also IPX6-rated waterproof and includes Apple “find my” support, a rain sensor, and smart home integration for Google Home, Amazon Alexa and Home Assistant.

It’s a beast of a bot, though, weighing 63 pounds and measuring 33.5 x 24.0 x 13.8 inches. The X4 is available in two models: the X430 ($2,499) for yards up to 1 acre and the X450 ($2,999) for yards up to 1.5 acres.

Roborock X1 LiDar

Roborock is expanding from inside the home to outdoors with several robot lawnmowers, including the flagship Rockmow X1 LiDar, which is designed for yards with lots of obstacles. It has 360-degree 3D LiDar as well as VSLAM technology, which captures up to 200,000 data points per second, and can avoid objects like garden hoses and toys.

In addition, the X1 does not require a base station, which should make setup a lot easier. It has four-wheel drive, and can climb slopes of up to 38 degrees, and ride over obstacles up to 3.1 inches high. Underneath are six cutting blades that can be adjusted from 1.5 to 3.5 inches high, and the X1 can handle up to half and acre per day. Additionally, the robot has geofencing and will emit a siren if it’s lifted or moved outside of your yard. It will be available in the U.S. in 2026, though pricing has not been announced.

Yarbo M Series

Yarbo is releasing a smaller version of its modular robot lawnmower, which should be better suited for those with smaller yards and pocketbooks. Like its current Y Series model, the M Series will be available with a series of attachments that can turn it from a lawnmower to a snow plow, leaf collector, or edge trimmer. The company announced that consumers will be able to select two mower modules, a plow blade (the Y Series has a snowblower attachment), a leaf collector, a trimmer, and a smart assistant module.

Like the Y Series, the M Series is a tracked vehicle, which distinguishes it from most other robot lawnmowers that have three or four individual wheels. It will be able to climb slopes of up to 35 degrees, and can tow up to 220 pounds. The Yarbo M Series will launch on Kickstarter, and be available later this year.

Mammotion LUBA 3 AWD

Mammotion is also launching several new robot lawnmowers, headlined by the Luba 3 AWD, which also uses 360-degree LiDar and AI vision with dual cameras to navigate your yard and detect not just obstacles, but potential dangers like edges.

Similar to Segway, Roborock, and others, the LUBA 3 AWD has NetRTK built in, so you don’t need to install a base station when setting it up. This all-wheel drive model can also climb grades of up to 38 degrees, and has dual cutting disks with a 15.8-inch wide cutting width. It has a 15Ah battery, and can mow up to 1.75 acres per day or 7,000 square feet per hour. We also like that Mammotion offers free 4G connectivity for three years, which is helpful if you’re worried that someone might take your robot mower. The LUBA 3 AWD is available to pre-order with starting at €2299/£2099//$2399 in the EU, UK and North America.

Dreame A3 AWD

Like Roborock, Dreame is another robot vacuum brand that’s also expanding to the outdoors. It too, has 360-degree 3D LiDar for navigating your yard, with dual-camera AI vision to detect and avoid objects. It uses all-wheel drive to be able to climb hills up to 38.7 degrees and go over curbs as high as 2.2 inches. It also has dual 15.7-inch cutting blades that can be adjusted from 1.1 to 3.9 inches. When it’s not mowing your lawn, you can also use the A3 to patrol, and use its cameras to keep on the lookout for people or pets.

Lymow One Plus

The Lymow One Plus shares a lot in common with these other robotic lawn mowers, and just like them, it features a rugged tank-like design that’s equipped to handle challenging conditions with its all-terrain tracked treads for stability on slopes and gravel. But what makes it really unique is that it does more than just cut grass on its own; it can also handle fallen leaves and other yard debris — effectively acting as a blower.

This is achieved through its Cyclone Airflow System that supposedly lifts grass blades for an even cut, while a single discharge port helps to prevent clogs and keeps sidewalks clean. It’s plenty powerful, too, backed by reinforced SK5 steel mulching blades to cut up leaves with ease. And since it features RTK-VSLAM technology, it can detect common yard objects and can navigate without any boundary wires.

Pre-orders will be available starting in February for $2,999, with shipments beginning in March 2026.

Mova LiDAX Ultra Series

Another robotic lawn mower brand that should be on your radar is Mova, which announced its LiDAX Ultra Series at CES 2026. They share the same set of features, including 360-degree high-precision LiDAR that works in conjunction with an AI-enhanced 1080p HDR camera, to detect obstacles in its path up to 230 feet away.

These bots are also really easy to set up, offering the same quick setup that doesn’t require an RTK antenna or any boundary wires. Both models have the gear to tackle challenging lawns and terrains, like a specialized UltraTrim 1.0 system, that allows it to edge trim lawns by extending its lower disc to get closer to boundaries and edges. Their rugged designs are complete with off-road wheels that allow it to climb slopes up to 45-degrees, while overcoming small pits.

One of the cooler features of the LiDAX Ultra Series is that it acts much like a sentry on your property through its TrueGuard Security feature. It’s like having a security system on wheels because these bots auto-patrol during non-cutting hours, while also alerting you to any potential threats. They’re actually priced modestly, with the LiDAX Ultra 1000 costing $1,299 and covering up to 0.25 acres. Meanwhile, the LiDAX Ultra 2000 can cover up to 0.5 acres and will cost $1,799.

Sunseeker S4

The Sunseeker S4 may be a bit more modest-looking than some of the other models on this list, but it too is equipped with 360-degree 3D LiDar and AI-powered cameras, so that you can simply drop it on your lawn and let it go.

It has a smallish cutting deck of 7 inches, but its cutting height can be adjusted from 0.8 inches to 2.4 inches. It can cover up to 0.25 acres, and its rear-wheel drive can handle grades of up to 22 degrees (42% slopes). It also can detect edges, and in the app, you can create up to 100 separate mowing zones.

The Sunseeker S4 will cost $1,299 and will be available in the second quarter of this year.

You might also be interested in: Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

More from Tom's Guide

• Best of CES Awards: The best of CES 2026
• This AI Robot Mower Completely Transformed Our One-Acre Yard
• I tried this remote-controlled lawnmower and it took the stress out of my yard work

Money can buy a lot. We just wrapped up Black Friday and Cyber Monday, when a lot of money was spent on tons of stuff.

But there's one thing money can't buy you, and that's time. You can be as rich as you want, but you only have so much time here. However, there's a loophole of sorts — you can buy products that save you time, creating more time to do the things you enjoy.

For my money, one of the best products I've ever used to free up time is a robot lawn mower. I have almost an acre of land to mow, and it's all fairly lumpy. The grass grows fast, too, so I spend a couple of hours mowing it every 5 or 6 days.

Since getting the Ecovacs Goat A3000 robot lawn mower, my time spent doing yard work has decreased dramatically. Outside of occasionally helping it get unstuck, it handled my large, lumpy yard with ease, which saved me countless hours throughout the mowing season.

Why I love the Ecovacs Goat A3000

So I'm going to start by saying the Ecovacs Goat A3000 isn't perfect. It, like all robot lawn mowers, is still what you might call emerging technology. It still gets stuck sometimes, and the blades break more than I'd like (a cheap fix).

But what it does well is so great that I can put those issues aside and gush over how much time the product has saved me.

Once you make it through the initial setup, which sees you follow the robot around the perimeter of your yard so it can learn the edges, you can have it get to work.

I admit I watched it for most of the process the first time, since I've never let a robot cut my lawn before, but after the first one, I just turned it on from my phone and only paid attention if I got an alert that it got stuck somewhere.

The actual mowing job was nearly perfect every time. You can adjust the cut height from 1.2" to 3.6", giving you the flexibility to create the yard you want. You can even set it to change directions every week, giving you those crossover lines we all love.

It would occasionally struggle with the bumps in my yard, mistaking them for tall grass, but if I set it to enhanced mode (designed for longer grass), this problem was mitigated. If your yard is flat, you'll probably have an even better time.

What's the price of time?

So while I said you can't buy time, living with a robot lawn mower has shown me that you can, kind of. Saving time doing tedious tasks in favor of doing fun ones is as close as you can get to buying more time.

And how much does that time cost? It's not cheap. At full price, Ecovacs charges $2,999.99 for the Goat A3000. But that gets you LiDAR, 45-minute fast charging and a ton of other features. There are cheaper robot lawn mowers on the market for those with smaller yards, but if you have a big one, you're going to have to shell out some cash.

If you have a big yard and hate spending half of your weekends mowing it, I really can't recommend a robot lawn mower enough. It doesn't have to be this robot lawn mower (though it is the only one I have first-hand experience with), but the feeling of knowing your lawn is being taken care of with minimal effort is a good one.

More from Tom's Guide

• IKEA’s $17 dish rack is perfect for small kitchens — here’s why I’ll be picking one up
• IKEA will celebrate 40th anniversary with '40 weeks of deals'
• I just upgraded my home with these 5 IKEA items

It's the perfect time of year to get gifts for the people you love at a reduced price, thanks to the best Black Friday deals around.

It's also the perfect time to get yourself the gift of a robot lawn mower. After all, a good robot lawn mower gets you the one thing money can't buy: more time with friends and loved ones. Instead of spending your weekend meticulously chopping blades of grass to create the lawn of your dreams, let the robot handle it.

If you've been on the fence about a robot lawn mower, these prices might just be tantalizing enough to put you over the edge.

And for more, check out this HP gaming laptop that's been discounted by $1,000. Perhaps use the $1,000 saved on that to get a mower!

Quick Links

• Mammotion YUKA mini 600H: was $1,148 now $778 @ Mammotion
• Ecovacs Goat O1000 RTK: was $999 now $799 @ Amazon
• Mammotion Luba mini AWD (H Version): was $1,599 now $1,199 @ Mammotion
• Husqvarna 420iQ: was $3,499 now $2,449 @ Amazon
• ECOVACS Goat A3000: was $2,999 now $2,750 @ Amazon

Best robot lawn mower deals

With winter fast approaching, many homeowners are probably de-commissioning their robot lawn mowers and mowers until spring returns. And while it may seem a no-brainer to shove your mower at the back of the shed or garage, there are some crucial jobs you need to do before storing it this season.

This is mainly because cooler temperatures, snow and rain can cause damage to the sensitive electronics of your robot mower. Similarly, you should protect the charging station from moisture while in storage.

We’ve got an expert at hand to share some top maintenance tips before you store your robot mower. Not only will proper storage protect it from rain and rust, but it will also ensure your smart mower stays in top shape for its spring and summer duties.

Clean the robot mower

First thing you’ll need to do is give your robot mower a good clean before storing away. Similar to the prep work before storing a traditional lawn mower, take an outdoor brush and remove grass clippings, mud, leaves and other debris from the robot mower, before cleaning its sensors and wheels.

“Dirt on sensors can affect navigation, while debris on wheels can hinder movement,” states Jayden Wei, CEO of MAMMOTION. “Wipe them down with a damp cloth. Also, don’t forget to inspect blades. Remove and sharpen or replace blades if they are dull or damaged to prevent rust over the winter.”

Fully charge battery before removing

Another task we don’t often consider when storing away for the winter break is battery maintenance. After all, we’re not likely to use the mower during colder temperatures?

However, experts advise to fully charge the battery to the manufacturer’s recommended level before removing it from the robot mower. ]

“For detachable batteries, store them separately in a cool, dry environment above freezing,” advises Wei. “Avoid complete discharge too. Batteries stored fully depleted can lose capacity and may not perform efficiently next season.”

This simple job will extend the battery’s service life, so you can get the most out of your robot lawn mower. Always remove and store batteries in a dry, cool place, and avoid leaving in freezing temperatures as this can permanently reduce capacity.

Store mower and charging station in an indoor place

It’s quite common to leave a robot lawn mower out in the yard, only to be forgotten, but it’s imperative to store the mower in a dry and moisture-free area. “Keep the mower and charging station in a dry, temperature-controlled area,” adds Wei. “Avoid basements or garages prone to moisture or freezing temperatures. Storing the robot mower in damp garages or outdoors exposes it to condensation, which can damage electronics and metal parts.”

In addition, you need to be mindful as to how you store your mower, such as placing it on a stable surface, as you don’t want to risk damage. “Ensure the mower rests on a flat surface or uses a wall hanger designed for robotic mowers to prevent damage. Also cover the mower. Use a breathable cover to protect against dust while allowing airflow to prevent condensation.”

If necessary, you can buy heavy-duty protective covers, which has a universal fit for most push or robot lawn mowers.

Check for firmware updates

Much like our smart home devices, our robot vacuum will need system updates to work properly. So it’s important to check for updates, and install the latest firmware before putting away your robot vacuum this winter.

“Install the latest firmware before storing the mower, and reset or note settings” says Wei. “If needed, reset settings or document schedules to avoid reprogramming in spring. Skipping updates can result in navigation errors or missed performance improvements when the mowing season starts.”

Following these easy steps will help your robot mower stay protected during the grim months, keep it functional and more importantly, ready for the first mow of the season.

More from Tom's Guide

• Robot lawn mowers — 5 reasons to buy and 5 reasons to skip
• Buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider
• I went hands-on with Roborock’s new RockMow Z1 robot mower

Bermuda grass is a popular warm-season turfgrass known for its drought tolerance and ability to withstand heavy traffic. However, as temperatures drop in fall, Bermuda grass enters a dormant state, turning from vibrant green to a dingy brown that can leave your lawn looking lifeless until spring.

You don't, however, have to resign yourself to months of a brown lawn. With the right techniques, you can maintain green grass throughout winter while protecting your dormant Bermuda grass underneath. Here's how you can combat your lawn's winter browning.

By implementing these strategies, you can maintain a green lawn throughout winter while ensuring your Bermuda grass remains healthy during dormancy. When spring arrives, your lawn will transition smoothly back to its natural state, providing a lush, green carpet for the warm months ahead.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips to revive dead grass and make your lawn green again
• How to create free nutrient-rich mulch from fall leaves
• How to overseed your lawn in fall — and when to do it for the best results

The arrival of fall brings vibrant colors to your garden as leaves begin to drop. While your first instinct might be to reach for the rake or leaf blower, there's a far easier and more beneficial approach: simply mow over them instead. This technique, known as mulching, transforms dead leaves into valuable nutrients that feed your lawn naturally.

Rather than viewing fallen leaves as yard waste to be bagged and removed, consider them free fertilizer that improves soil health, suppresses weeds, and protects your grass during winter months. With the right approach, you can save hours of raking while creating a healthier lawn that will flourish next Spring.

Next time you see leaves falling on your lawn, leave the rake in the shed. Instead, fire up your lawnmower. Your soil benefits, your grass grows stronger, and you save hours of tedious yard work.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardeners warned to look out for mushrooms in their lawn
• Never use bleach in your birdbath — this cheap pantry staple is safer
• Don't ruin your patio! 7 steps experts say you must take before the first frost

When the summer's here in Colorado, the hot and unpleasant weather makes me want to mow my lawn less and less frequently. Add into that the hefty carbon footprint of my gas mower, and my yard suffers more often than it should. So the Anthbot Genie 3000 has been a welcome addition to my yard.

This robot mower gets set up and mowing quickly, and the app makes it pretty easy to control it from the comfort of my living room. Its cutting radius is on the small side, but the battery life is very good, so it cuts well even if it takes a while to get the whole yard done.

It’s best for well-manicured lawns that aren’t too shaggy. Fortunately, the app makes it easy to set up a schedule and ensure conditions are just right for the Genie to operate.

Price and availability

The Genie 3000 is available for purchase now on Anthbot’s website. You can buy the Genie 3000 for $1,599 at Anthbot.com. You can finance the purchase through Paypal at checkout. The Genie ships free and comes with a 30-day return window, a 30-day price guarantee, and a 2-year warranty.

You can also purchase the Genie through other retailers like Walmart and Amazon, though availability appears to be limited.

Design

The Genie comes with the mower unit, the docking station, and the RTK Pole Station. These will need to be positioned in your yard on or near the grass, and close to each other. Anthbot says the RTK station easily penetrates clouds, and you’ll get a strong signal even under dense trees or other coverage. Anthbot’s website says the signal stability is 50% better than other RTKs that operate on just 8 bands.

If the signal does weaken, the Genie has four AI cameras that will help the unit continue to find its path unabated. These cameras also help with edge detection, and get used during the auto mapping process to ensure you get a solid map of your lawn for precise cutting.

The cameras feature 300-degree vision, which Anthbot calls “human-like,” or in other words, generally what you would see if you were the robot. It also features sensors that prevent collisions in a 360-degree radius from the unit. There are no perimeter wires to install, since the unit’s cameras and GPS capabilities allow it to map out the yard precisely.

The Genie cuts using 5 ti-coated blades spinning at 3,000 rpm. It features an 8-inch-wide cutting path, and you can adjust the cutting height from 1.2 inches to 2.8 inches. Should you need to shut the unit down in a hurry, there’s an emergency stop button prominently positioned on top.

The Genie is IPX6 rated, which means it’s sealed to resist water penetration. You can clean it with a hose, and while it can operate in the rain, it will automatically return to its dock when it senses a rain shower. If you live in a rainy locale, you may want to consider the optional rain cover, ($200, sold separately).

Before you use the Anthbot, you’ll need to map your yard. The Genie can do this automatically, or you can do it manually using the remote control mapping mode. The process should take between 10 and 20 minutes, according to Anthbot.

Using the Anthbot app, you can also set up multiple zones for your Genie. If you have a complicated yard layout, for example, you can program your Genie so it knows which zone it’s operating in. All told, the Genie 3000 can handle up to 30 different zones.

Anthbot says the Genie 3000 comes with a 10Ah battery but does not advertise a max run time. This would largely depend on the type of terrain on which the Genie will operate. The Genie can handle up to a 24-degree slope, for example. And if your yard has many such pitches, expect to get less run time out of the unit than if your yard is relatively flat. A full charge takes about two hours.

Setting up the Anthbot

The charging station must be positioned on your lawn, or securely fastened on the edge of the lawn, so the unit can easily find the station and dock with the charging tines. The dock can be secured in place using the included stakes.

The RTK tower also needs to be positioned near the charging station. This pole uses a three-tine stake that plunges into your lawn. If there’s no ideal place for you to position the RTK, Anthbot does sell extension cables and wall mount brackets (sold separately) to help you find the best position possible.

The RTK’s effective range is about 300m in radius. It needs to be installed about ten feet from any obstacles. There are indicator lights on the unit to let you know if the RTK unit is positioned properly or if it needs to be moved.

I actually found it difficult to find a suitable spot in my yard, since I have a detached garage, several trees, and other obstacles to contend with. My test unit did not come with a wall mount, but in the long term, that’s probably what I’ll need to make this work. For now, I found a spot that’s pretty inconvenient and had to hang the power cable up so the mower could run underneath it. It’s no long-term solution, but it’ll do for testing.

The best way to get the Anthbot Genie 3000 up and running quickly is to download the app and connect to the Genie via Bluetooth. From there, you can set up Wi-Fi, which will allow auto firmware and map updates.

Once the docking station and RTK are both in place and powered up, and the unit is paired to the app, the Genie can begin the yard mapping process — assuming the battery is charged. If it’s below 50%, you may need to wait for it to charge so you can update to the most recent firmware and have enough battery power to complete the mapping process.

The problem is, there’s no way to opt out of the firmware update. I tried ten times to do the update and it failed nine times. That led to a pretty protracted delay in getting my Genie set up.

Once it finally updated, it was time to map the yard. I started with the auto mapping mode, but I could see the Genie getting hung up on a lot of objects around the fringe of my yard, so I opted to switch to manual mode. It went a lot quicker this way. You’ll use the app to do this; there will be two joystick controls displayed, one for forward/back control, and one for left/right control. It’s actually pretty fun to control the unit in this manner.

It’s important to get a good map going before mowing. Otherwise, the Genie will sort of wander. So I actually ended up re-mapping after my first try to ensure I got a good border. It took about twenty minutes to get my back yard mapped manually.

Performance

If you have a lot of weeds in your yard, the Genie 3000 will struggle a bit. Same if you have sandy or muddy spots. You’ll want to map areas like this out so the Genie can avoid them. The Genie is best suited to manicured or at least well maintained lawns with mostly grass and few, if any, weeds.

Once it gets going, the Genie plugs away at a moderate pace. Expect it to run for quite a while if you have a large yard. For example, it took 23 minutes to mow one small section of my yard, which measures 388 square feet. My entire backyard takes over an hour and a half. But you don’t need to babysit it; feel free to walk away and let it do its thing.

You can also speed it up in the app. This is best only if your grass is already fairly short and you just want to trim it. If your grass is fairly long and needs a solid cutting, stick with the slower speed.

With super-thick grass, the Genie does an okay job. I did find it necessary to go over the same areas more than once to get a truly clean cut. When the grass is already fairly low, the Genie does a much better job. In fact, before your first use, Anthbot does recommend manually mowing your lawn to a reasonable height so the Genie is more efficient. It’s best to program your Genie to mow frequently to get the best results.

On its initial mowing setting, the Genie will ignore most of the edge of your boundary. If you want the mower to touch up the edges, you can simply use the Edge setting in the app and the mower will get those fringes. It also has a spot setting, as well as the ability to program ‘no-go’ zones to avoid fixed obstacles or yard features.

Under normal mowing parameters, the battery life is pretty good. I have it running as I write this article, and the grass is on the long side. According to the app, the mower has been running for the last 25 minutes, and has used about 10% of its battery. That’s not much, considering the use case, external temperature (already over 90 degrees outside), and square footage already covered (just over 500).

The Genie does spend a bit too much time spinning in circles when it gets disoriented, or after it bumps into an obstacle. It usually takes several seconds for the unit to re-orient itself and get going again. And I’ve noticed that it does tend to go back to those spots later to ensure it hasn’t missed anything, but the results are hit or miss.

App

The app is easy to use for the most part, though I do wish there were more in-app explanations about the various features. For example, while it’s easy to go into the individual zones you've set for your yard, there’s no in-app explanation about what this feature is, or what it does. There are some tutorials that pop up upon first set-up of your lawn boundaries, though, and these are quite thorough.

You can do quite a lot within the app: raise or lower the mower’s voice volume, change the mowing direction, change your cutting height and mower speed, and even enable the Smart Lawn Care feature that adjusts mowing settings automatically based on what the mower has learned from your grass growth.

But it’s not without its quirks. As I mentioned earlier, there’s no way to opt out of over-the-air firmware updates if you want to put them off to a later time, which can delay activation of the mowing features. I also didn’t find any way to change from metric to imperial measuring units.

Ultimately, the app is very usable, though it could use some streamlining. Like most appliance apps, there’s always some fiddling around to figure out the features and the ins and outs of the user interface. I’d give the Anthbot app a solid B rating here.

Accessories

Anthbot offers a few key accessories that you can purchase right on its website. For my purposes, the most important is the RTK Wall Mount Kit ($79), which allows you to place your RTK antenna on or near buildings should you have a complicated yard layout, like me.

The Rain Cover ($200) seems like a solid investment if you live in rainy environments. While the Genie is IXP6 rated, the rain cover is sure to prolong the overall life of your investment.

The rest of the accessories are replacement parts, like batteries ($80) and replacement blades ($19).

Competition

The robot lawnmower category is ever-growing. Many of the offerings that compete with the Genie 3000 use buried wires to contain the mower within its boundaries. Though more and more, such setups are becoming antiquated.

A direct competitor is Sunseeker’s X7 Wireless Robot Lawn Mower ($2,699), which covers 0.75 acres to the Genie’s 0.89 acres. The Genie is less expensive, but it also has a smaller cutting radius. The Sunseeker also features a floating blade system that allows a wider range of cutting heights.

Verdict

The Genie 3000 excels in yards with fairly manicured lawns. Weedy lawns may not be ideal for this particular unit. The battery life is very good, the app is decent, and the set-up is quick and easy once you get the hang of it.

The Genie does get hung up on obstacles, however, and ends up spinning in place to find an alternate route. And the OTA firmware updates can be disruptive if you’re just trying to get mowing right now.

But overall, the Genie 3000 has saved me a lot of work and time sweating in the sun. Its cutting radius is small but clean on manicured lawns, and setting up boundaries for your lawn and various zones within your yard is pretty simple. This unit is best for users who want minimal setup and lots of battery life.

The evidence is clear in my backyard, fall has truly arrived. My lawn is covered in an assortment of brightly colored burnt orange and rustic yellow leaves. And although I love seeing the beautiful colors, I’m itching to get outside and rake them up.

But aside from clearing away the leaves, I’m wondering how to look after my lawn this month — and whether it needs one last mow before winter.

To make sure I do things right, I asked lawn care experts for their advice. And it seems that even in mid-October it’s still okay to cut my lawn one last time before winter, as it will keep it healthy. But I need to get the cutting height just right.

There's still time to mow your lawn

“A final cut helps tidy the lawn, prevents it from getting too long or matted, and reduces the chance of moss or fungal growth,” says Chris Taylor, owner at Chris Taylor Gardening. “Grass that’s left too long can trap moisture and block sunlight, leading to yellowing patches and poor regrowth in spring.”

So, it’s not quite time to retire your lawnmower for the season. Taylor adds you’ll have to wait until the temperature consistently drops to below 50°F (10°C) before you do that. “A mild fall might let you squeeze in one last tidy-up in early November, but after that, the mower should stay in the shed,” he says.

Apart from using temperature as your guide, Sky Durrant, co-founder at Lawn Guru, takes his cue from whether his grass has stopped growing and whether the leaves have mostly fallen.

“I keep mowing until the grass stops growing and most of the leaves have fallen from my trees,” he says.

He also has a tip: “Mowing in late fall helps me mulch and bag leaves as they come down, which keeps them from smothering the lawn. Once the leaves have fallen and my grass has stopped growing I’ll call it for the season. “

Getting the cut right

The key to a good final mow is knowing how short to cut.

“Aim to leave the grass around 1.5 inches (4 cm) tall, or 2 inches (5 cm) if your yard is shaded,” advises Taylor.

And he warns, “Cutting your lawn too short before winter is one of the most common mistakes homeowners make.”

This is known as “scalping”, and it weakens the grass by exposing the soil and roots to cold air and frost, resulting in it becoming patchy, yellow, or even dead grass by the time spring arrives.

“Short grass also leaves less surface area for light absorption, meaning the lawn can’t recover as easily,” he adds.

What time of day should you cut your lawn?

The good news is you won’t have to be an early bird to mow your lawn at the best time. The optimal window is between late morning and early afternoon.

“Mow later in the day so the lawn has time to thaw and dry out,” advises Durrant. “Cooler fall mornings often mean frost or dew on the grass, which isn’t ideal for mowing. Mowing later in the day gives the lawn time to dry out so you get a cleaner cut.”

A top lawn care tip to do in the fall

While you are out in your yard this month raking leaves Durrant recommends a simple but smart trick.

“Instead of raking and bagging every last leaf, run them over with your mower a few times. The shredded pieces break down quickly and return nutrients to the soil, helping to feed your lawn naturally and improve soil health,” he says.

More from Tom's Guide

• This baking staple is the key to killing moss in your lawn this winter — here's why
• The ultimate lawn care guide — essential tips and tricks for getting the perfect lawn
• How to plant grass seed and get a greener yard

As we enter the cooler months, your lawncare tasks will start to slow down. Grass becomes dormant when the temperature drops, meaning there's no need to mow it. But ahead of the colder season, it's important to carry out some vital lawncare that can set you up for a healthy lawn in the spring. And according to experts, this weekend could be your last chance.

“These next few days are ideal," says Chris McIlroy of The Grass People. "The ground is moist but not soaked, and grass is still actively growing. Once the heavier rain sets in, you’ll be fighting mud instead of improving your lawn’s health.” Here's what you need to do this weekend to prepare your lawn for the winter.

Cheat sheet: What to do to your lawn

• Scarify and aerate your lawn: This will remove a buildup of thatch and moss, allowing your grass roots to breathe and creating better absorption of water.
• Over-seed your lawn: This will prepare it for winter dormancy, and lay down those roots that can boost drainage.
• Top-dress your grass: Use a mix of sand and loam. This will bring the surface level and improve seed-soil contact, speeding up germination.
• Do your last mow: Complete your final cuts of the season and mow hight to protect against frost and disease.

Why now is the time to act

According to The Lawn People, mid-October is the "sweet spot" for lawn maintenance. That's because the weather is still warm enough for seeds to germinate and roots to grow. "Lawns that drain well and have robust root systems are key to garden resilience," says McIlroy.

So, acting now is the key to preparing your lawn for cooler weather and heavy rainfall.

Here's what to do

McIlroy recommends a handful of tasks that will make a big difference to your lawn, if you act fast.

Firstly and most importantly, you should scarify and aerate your lawn. While McIlroy recommends a number of steps, this is the one you should prioritize this weekend if you're short on time but want to protect your grass.

This will remove a buildup of thatch and moss, allowing your grass roots to breathe and creating better absorption of water, which is essential as rainfall becomes heavier and more routine.

“A well-aerated lawn doesn’t just look better in spring,” McIlroy explains. “It also drains faster, reduces surface runoff and copes far better with the heavy rain events we’re seeing more of each year.”

What else can I do?

More from Tom's Guide

• Want a green garden come spring? 5 expert tips to protect your lawn this winter
• How to fix a waterlogged lawn for a healthy yard
• 5 household items that can protect your plants from frost

Just because temperatures have dropped, this doesn’t mark the end of gardening season. Fall is the perfect time to do those essential jobs that will get your garden in top shape for spring. If you take pride in your lush, green lawn, there is one ‘controversial’ natural plant that can ruin the overall look — moss. While some people love the look of moss, not everyone is keen for it to be on their lawns,

What’s more, moss is one of the most common lawn weeds, known as a ‘silent grass killer’, that appears in the form of green, sponge-like patches between the blades of grass. But if you’re unsure of how to get rid of moss, experts are urging gardeners to do this one simple thing to their lawns this October.

In fact, this lawn care hack is a common kitchen staple found in most households, and it's often used in cleaning hacks around the home. So what is this?

Sprinkle baking soda on your lawn

Essentially a key ingredient to cakes and bakes, baking soda has now become a great, multi-purpose, household staple. Besides the many things you didn't know you could clean with baking soda, it can be put to good use in the yard too.

According to gardening experts, sprinkling baking soda on lawns is a quick, non-toxic way to banish unsightly moss. Typically, commercial repellents contain harmful toxins that, in turn, can kill beneficial things in your yard, such as insects, worms and bees — needed for pollination. This is the ideal way to kill moss, without the need for chemicals.

“With the arrival of spring, we can expect rain showers and high humidity, which create the ideal conditions for moss growth,” states Chris Bonnett, the founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk. “While moss growing on trees in your garden can be a charming sight, if you notice moss spreading on hard surfaces in your garden, then it’s time to take action to prevent safety hazards.

"Baking soda is a cheap and effective solution for eliminating moss, and it works well on larger surfaces. To use it, simply mix baking soda with a small amount of water to create a paste. Apply the paste to the affected areas, let it sit for a few hours, and then scrub it off.”

Bear in mind that while baking soda doesn’t contain chemicals, it can be harmful to pets if large amounts are digested.

Alternatively, you could try mixing dish soap with another white vinegar that is also known to kill moss and weeds. “Mix around a pint of white vinegar with five teaspoons of salt and around a third of a teaspoon of dish soap into a spray bottle and spray the base of any unsightly weeds,” advises Jonathan Creber, Commercial Director of Modern Garden Rooms.

Another rather strange hack to remove moss are fizzy drinks like Cola. “If you’ve got fizzy cola in your fridge, you can use it to remove small patches of moss,” advises Bonnett. “Fizzy cola contains phosphoric acid which attacks moss cells and prevents it from coming back. Simply pour the drink into a spray bottle, spray it on moss, let it sit, wipe and rinse with clean water. Remember to not use cola for concrete as it’s acid-sensitive.”

So if you want a moss-free lawn, you might already have the secret ingredients in your kitchen cupboards.

More from Tom's Guide

• Banish dandelions on your lawn by pouring this free liquid on it
• How to plant grass seed
• how to make your grass look greener

As the temperatures start to drop, and our grass looks frosty, this is a sure sign that winter will be here before you know it. And if you take pride in your lush grass, it can be tricky to know the best type of lawn care to keep it in healthy condition during the colder months.

We ask the gardening experts for their top tips to prepare your lawn ahead of winter, ensure healthy grass, and give it a better chance at surviving during tougher conditions such as rainfall, frost and even snow. So, if you want to protect your grass and keep it in top condition, follow these simple lawn care tips this winter.

Plus, here are 5 household items that can protect your plants from frost and why I won't be walking on my frosty lawn this winter.

1. Aerate your lawn

Generally, knowing how to aerate a lawn can give your yard a new lease on life, and this is especially important during fall and winter months.

Autumn and winter will often bring increased rainfall, which can cause waterlogging if it's not aerated frequently. You can do this by either pushing a garden fork into the soil underneath your grass to make small holes, or use use a specialist aerator.

In addition, aerating your lawn also gives your grass roots more space to grow, and allows better access to much-needed nutrients. Just avoid aerating too much, or if your lawn is weakened or struggling, or you could make things worse. For more advice, check out these 9 signs your lawn needs aerating.

2. Reduce and then stop mowing

Although you might want to maintain a neat and tidy lawn all year round, another tip is to reduce the frequency of mowing.

“During the colder months, you’ll want to gradually decrease the amount of mowing that you do as the grass growth begins to slow down,” agrees Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert at Online Turf. “ If you’re frequently mowing your lawn without giving the grass time to grow back, you can scalp your lawn, resulting in patchy and dead areas.

“The last mow should then be completed before the temperatures drop below 10°C. Depending on your climate, this is usually between October and November. Make sure to raise the mower’s height beforehand as the longer grass blades will help to protect your lawn from the frost and cold temperatures in winter, and choose a mild, dry day. Never mow a wet lawn as this is likely going to damage its grass blades, weakening it and making it look unkempt.”

When you do mow your lawn however, ensure you’re not cutting the grass too short, and make sure you raise the cut to the highest setting to protect your grass as best as possible. "The key is to adjust as temperatures drop," adds Brian Feldman, Director of Technical Operations at TruGreen. "We suggest continuing to mow as long as grass growth continues and at the same time gradually lowering mower blade height through late fall.”

3. Don’t walk on a frosty lawn

Another common mistake we often make during winter is walking across frosty grass. According to experts, this is a no-no, and can cause damage to the grass blades when you apply any foot pressure.

“Avoid walking on frosty or waterlogged grass, as frozen blades are brittle and easily damaged, and keep heavy furniture or vehicles off the lawn to prevent compaction,” states Chris Taylor, lawn expert at Chris Taylor Gardening.

“If drainage is poor, spike soggy areas or add sand to improve runoff, and treat moss early with an iron-based moss killer. Edging the lawn before winter, keeping pets off frozen turf, and gently brushing away heavy snow on ornamental lawns can all help prevent bare patches and disease. With just a little seasonal care, your lawn will come through winter healthier, greener, and ready to thrive when spring arrives.”

4. Add fertilizers and soil amendments

“The best way to add potassium is to use liquid Sea Kelp, which is naturally high in potassium and root building cytokinins,”advises Craig Elworthy, founder of Lawnbright.

“Potassium helps the plants resilience to harsh conditions, and should be used in abundance in the mid to late fall, as the lawn is preparing for the extreme temps of winter and dormancy.

Even after the first frost you can keep mowing to get the leaves off the lawn. Leaves will mat down over the course of the winter and kill off the lawn, so keep mowing! In many cases, this means you’ll be mowing straight through October to early November.”

Bear in mind that you need to fertilize before your grass is dormant. When the grass is dormant it won’t be strong enough to benefit from any extra nutrients you are applying.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 mistakes you could be making with your lawn this winter
• How to fix a waterlogged lawn for a healthy yard
• 5 household items that can protect your plants from frost

Fall may be officially here, but that doesn’t mean your gardening duties need to take a back seat. And despite the cooler temperatures, your grass will benefit from some TLC now if you want to maintain a healthy and lush lawn for next year. Although it would make sense to put off all lawn care tasks until we see warmer weather again, you’ll be mistaken.

According to a gardening expert, there is one common lawn care mistake that we often make during fall months. What’s more, this can invite pests and diseases to our lawns if we avoid doing this simple task.

Don't put off mowing your lawn

While it might seem the obvious thing to do, don’t retire your lawn mower just yet. In fact, now is the perfect time to tend to your grass to encourage new growth and prevent it from disease during fall.

"One mistake gardeners often make is packing their lawn mowers up as soon as fall appears,” states Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith. “Fall has been milder in recent years, but last year, we saw grass growth in November meaning the last mow could have been done around the end of October and start of November.

“Timing is crucial. You don’t want to leave it too late and have vulnerable fresh-cut grass when the first frost arrives and you want to avoid cutting a wet lawn too.

"Grass growth does slow in fall, so you don’t need to be mowing weekly as you would in summer. But every two or three weeks, depending on how fast your grass grows, should be fine.”

Watch out for pests and diseases

Besides not wanting an unkempt lawn to ruin the aesthetics of your backyard, longer grass blades can also become a haven for pests or diseases from waterlogged soil.

“Neglecting mowing at this time of year can see your lawn become unruly in a matter of weeks. Overgrown grass can trap moisture in the soil, which can breed diseases and attract pests, too,” explains Davis. “Long blades can create shelter against the elements for grubs and insects and even small rodents like voles and mice.

“Your grass and soil need adequate airflow to prevent fungal build-up which can suffocate the lawn and its roots, leaving brown patches behind,” said Davis. So before you pack away your mower this season, be sure to upkeep your grass with a much-needed trim in October.

For more top tips, check out these 5 fall lawncare tips you need to know for a healthy grass all year round. Plus, here’s how to store a lawn mower and protect it through the winter.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 common lawn care mistakes that are killing your yard
• 58% of Americans make this common lawn mowing mistake
• Can you cut wet grass? Here's how it could affect your lawn, and your mower

Planting grass seed based on calendar dates is a recipe for disappointment. Air temperature might feel perfect for fall lawn care, but what matters is happening several inches below ground where seeds actually germinate. Soil temperature determines whether your investment in quality seed pays off or becomes expensive bird food.

Before overseeding your lawn this fall, understanding soil temperature requirements can save you from costly mistakes that waste both time and money. Different grass types have specific needs that must be met to grow successfully. If you've noticed signs that your lawn needs overseeding, timing your seeding perfectly becomes even more critical.

The process requires just a simple tool and takes minutes, but provides timing insights that dramatically improve your success rate. Here's how to test your soil temperature.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips for making your grass greener than ever this year
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring
• 7 essential lawnmower tips to help keep it running like new

Summer's toll on lawns becomes undeniable by mid-September. Bare patches that started small have expanded, grass density has declined, and weeds have claimed territory in the weakened areas. Overseeding becomes necessary when existing grass can't fill in bare spots naturally or when the overall density drops below what's needed for a healthy lawn.

Learning to recognize these warning signs early prevents minor issues from becoming major lawn renovation projects. The key indicators are visible and measurable, making it straightforward to assess whether your lawn needs new grass seed or just better maintenance. Here's how to evaluate your lawn's condition and determine if overseeding should be on your fall to-do list.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips for making your grass greener than ever this year
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring
• 7 essential lawnmower tips to help keep it running like new

Roborock has only been in the robot vacuum game for eight years, but it’s already built a reputation for bold, eye-catching innovations. There’s the Saros Z70 with its robotic arm that can scoop up dropped socks (a feature still missing from my husband), and the pricey yet powerful Qrevo Curv, which is exceptional when it comes to powerful suction and mopping. In early September, at Berlin’s IFA tech show, Roborock stepped outside the living room with its first three robotic lawn mowers — and I got a sneak peek during an exclusive demo in Munich this week.

Roborock showcased three new models at the event — the RockMow Z1, RockMow S1, and RockNeo Q1, all of which promise to bring something new to the robot lawn mower market currently dominated by the likes of Husqvarna, Gardena, Stihl and Honda. But it was the top-of-the-line Z1 that really grabbed my attention. Here's why...

1. It corners like it's on rails

Of all the Z1’s “particular set of skills,” the standout for me was its cornering — slick enough to give an F1 car a run for its money. The secret lies in its four-wheel drive, with each wheel powered by its own motor, and suspension that allows the mower to handle gentle undulations in the terrain.

Instead of awkwardly shuffling back and forth like many robot mowers, the Z1 glides around corners in one clean sweep. Add in its floating blade design and AI smarts, and it can trim right to the edge — or even while straddling the lawn and your garden path.

Another perk of the Z1’s cornering and smart suspension is less lawn damage. Many robot mowers scuff bald spots as they drag around corners, especially on damp grass. Roborock claims the Z1 avoids this with smoother turns and no back-and-forth grinding.

It's allegedly also able to get as close as 3cm to a wall, fence or flowerbed with its PreciEdge blade, meaning less manual strimming is needed. It's tech we can't wait to try out at home.

2. It's the mountain goat of robot lawn mowers

Next up, we have the Z1's promised ability to power up steep slopes with a gradient of up to 80% (38.7°).

I'd previously seen Husqvarna's Automower 535 AWD handle 70% gradient inclines, but this represents a literal new high for the market.

I actually saw this skill from Roborock live at IFA (fellow Chinese competitors Dreame also presented a robot mower that could hit an 80% gradient), and sadly the Z1 wasn't able to replicate the live demo at the Munich event.

But should Roborock get the tech working reliably, this promises to be a godsend for anyone who has a steep slope, pond or river bank in their garden.

3. It can mow messages into your lawn

Yes, it’s a gimmick — but what’s new tech without at least one delightfully bonkers feature? In the case of the Z1, it’s the option to program it to cut patterns into your lawn. You can go wholesome with a cheerful greeting, celebratory message, or (perhaps more fittingly) a passive-aggressive “Keep Off My Grass.”

Roborock even hints at more creative potential, and I can’t help wondering if it could manage Wimbledon-style stripes. If so, my lawn roller may be out of a job.

What else can the RockMow Z1 do?

The Z1 also packs what Roborock grandly calls “Sentisphere AI Environmental Perception,” which, in plain English, means it can steer confidently through shaded areas and tight passages. If you’ve used robot mowers before (as I have), you’ll know these spots often confuse them, leaving behind scruffy patches of grass.

Equally impressive is the Z1’s stamina: it claims to cut up to 5,000 sq m of grass in just 24 hours — roughly the size of an American football field. It's fair to say other robot mowers (including the aforementioned Husqvarna) can cover that kind of area, albeit with no set time frame. But we'd love to race them and see who does the job the quickest – with no missed bits.

What does the full Roborock mower lineup look like?

Launching alongside the Z1 is the RockMow S1, which offers most of the same features but with two-wheel drive, a smaller 1,000 sq m daily cutting capacity, and slightly less ground clearance at 4cm. It still packs Roborock’s AI system and what the company touts as “industry-leading” 3cm edge cutting.

Then there’s the RockNeo Q1, a close cousin to the S1 with the same AI, 3cm edge cutting, and 1,000 sq m mowing ability, plus matching gradient and obstacle handling. Its standout feature is an optional Wildlife-Friendly Mode, which prevents nighttime runs to avoid disturbing nocturnal visitors — from foxes and raccoons to, yes, your cat.

However, we're guessing the Neo Q1 is also your most affordable option, with certain manual settings like cutting height.

When will Roborock's robot mowers be available?

Before you get too excited, the mowers are so far only confirmed for the European market, launching in Spring 2025, with pricing to be revealed later in the year. However, Kai Zantke, Roborock’s German Communications Lead, told me that there are plans to bring the line to North America in 2026.

MRSPs are also yet to be announced — they're promised at the end of 2025. However, based on Roborock’s robot vacuum pricing, I'd bet on a premium tag – especially for the flagship RockMow Z1 and all its smarts.

More from Tom's Guide

• Robot lawn mowers — the next big frontier for smart homes
• I just tried a robot lawnmower for the first time — here's how it went
• I tested the Mowrator S1 2WD, and it took the stress out of my yard work — here’s how

After months of foot traffic, heat stress, and summer wear, many lawns show bare spots, thinning grass, and overall decline by early fall. Fortunately, the next few weeks present the ideal window for overseeding.

The key to successful fall overseeding lies in precise timing. Seed too early and hot weather can prevent germination. Wait too long, and the grass won't establish strong roots before winter dormancy. Plus, cooler weather means less frequent mowing to disturb new seedlings

Avoiding common lawn care mistakes is crucial for overseeding success. This guide covers everything needed to overseed effectively this fall, from choosing the right seed type to proper watering schedules, ensuring a lush, resilient lawn emerges next spring.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 tips for making your grass greener than ever this year
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring
• 7 essential lawnmower tips to help keep it running like new

There’s a big debate in gardening circles about whether to leave the leaves on your lawn or grab a rake and clear them up. While I know what I think is best, I put the question to lawn experts.

With fall in full swing and my yard filled with several large trees, my green expanse of lawn is getting covered with an assortment of brightly colored leaves. While I enjoy the dark brown and rusty autumnal colors, I’m the first one to be out there with my rake, clearing away the leaves.

But am I getting it right? I posed the question to garden experts to get both sides of the argument. Should you rake fallen leaves from your lawn or leave them be?

Why you should rake the leaves away

“It’s best to rake leaves off your lawn during autumn because thick layers can smother the grass, blocking light and trapping moisture, which may cause patchy or mossy areas,” advises Julian Palphramand, our Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

This is definitely my opinion when it comes to clearing up leaves from my lawn, and Chrissie Handley, Lawn Care Specialist & Gardening Expert at Online Turf agrees, saying that raking your lawn regularly in the fall helps to keep airflow and sunlight to your lawn, which is essential for healthy grass growth. “If debris is left to pile up, it can create humid and smothered conditions, which are ideal for lawn diseases to thrive in,” she says.

Clearing away the leaves also ensures there are no piles of matter for rodents and ticks to settle within and call home.

What’s more, by taking the time now to clear away the leaves, you’ll be reducing your lawn care tasks next year, as a build-up of leaves on your lawn will cause patches that will need reseeding in the spring.

To rake leaves the easy way, Palphramand recommends giving them a gentle rake to keep your lawn healthy through winter, and he says, “A lightweight leaf rake with wide, flexible, fan-shaped tines works well as it collects leaves without damaging the grass.”

Leaving leaves to settle

Although I'm in the clearing-up camp, leaving the leaves to settle does have some benefits. “Allowing leaves to remain on the lawn can be good for both the soil and local wildlife. As they break down, leaves act as a natural mulch, helping the ground retain moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds,” says Chris Taylor at Chris Taylor Gardening.

And he adds that their decomposition also enriches the soil by returning nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

While the soil benefits, insects do too. “Leaves create habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators, which in turn support birds and other wildlife,” says Taylor.

Although, as mentioned above, leaves that are piled too deeply can encourage rodents.

The leaf clearing compromise

If you have lots of trees in your yard and you don’t own a leaf blower, it can be time-consuming to keep your lawn leaf-free. As a compromise, Handley suggests, “A light layer of fallen leaves can be used as mulch — if they’re left to break down back into the soil, they provide a small nitrogen boost to the soil.

The nitrogen helps keep the lawn nice and green, helping it retain its colour throughout winter dormancy.”

However, the compromise is leaving a light layer rather than a deep pile, and she won’t advise taking this step after heavy rainfall, as thick, clumped layers of debris can block airflow to the lawn. “You want a light, even coverage of debris to make sure you’re not encouraging humid conditions that allow lawn diseases and patchy re-growth to occur,” says Handley.

What to do with your fallen leaves

There’s plenty you can do with your fallen leaves once you’ve raked them up. Apart from adding them to your compost bin, all ready for use next year, as advised by Taylor, Handley suggests making the most of them straight away. She suggests using the leaves on your flower beds and borders as mulch to help retain moisture and provide an added boost of nitrogen over winter.

They can also be added around the base or trees that need insulation over winter. “The thick layer of leaf mulch will help retain moisture in the soil and insulate the plant at the roots, helping it survive as we transition into colder temperatures,” explains Handley.

And she adds, “This mulching method works best on either early growth plants, or on plants that are sensitive to extreme temperature changes, like hydrangeas or roses.”

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 lawncare tips to beat the frost this winter
• 5 benefits of composting and how it can enrich more than your yard
• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know

Gardeners know that whatever the weather, lawns need regular maintenance to keep them in good condition and looking their best. But with the summer fading, you might be wondering whether you can forgo mowing your lawn in September and use the time saved for other gardening jobs, such as sowing seeds for a late fall harvest.

However, one lawn care expert warns, don’t put away your lawnmower just yet, because when to stop mowing your lawn isn’t about a specific timeframe or temperature.

“When the temperature starts to drop, homeowners often head inside. Many believe that once the cooler weather hits, you don’t need to mow your lawn anymore. This is simply not true, you grass doesn’t stop growing during this time, it just slows down,” according to Weed Man.

The last mow rule

Knowing when to give your lawn its last cut is all to do with how it’s growing, with Weed Man advising to follow the golden rule, “keep mowing if it’s still growing”.

If you have cool-season grasses, Weed Man states that they often continue to grow into late October and November, so you could still have a fair few weeks of lawn mowing to keep you occupied in your yard. If you own a robot lawn mower, such as the Segway Navimow, you’ll have spare time to focus on other tasks and prepare your yard for fall.

It’s unlikely that you’ll need to mow your lawn as frequently as during the summer months, but it’s worth keeping an eye on its growth to ensure it’s kept in good shape before winter. And rather than setting a specific date for your last lawn cut, Weed Man states, “It should fall about a week before the first frost.”

If you don’t know when your first frost is likely to be, you can find out by using the Old Farmer’s Almanac's Frost Date Calculator. All you need to do is insert your zip codes to get the result, and aside from helping you plan when to give your lawn its last cut, it will also help you schedule other yard jobs.

What to do when you give your lawn its last cut

Giving your lawn a last cut will also help it resist disease, giving it the strength to come back healthy in the spring. However, where you might tend to raise the blades on your lawn mower when you give your lawn its first cut of the year, for its final cut, Weed Man recommends lowering the blades.

For Kentucky bluegrass and ryegrass you should be cutting at 1.5 inches, while tall Fescue grass should be cut at 2 inches.

Rather than lowering the blades for the final cut only, it’s best to do this gradually. Cutting your grass shorter helps to protect it from potential diseases such as winter fungal disease and snow mold. It is also more resistant to ice and snow damage, as short grass won’t become matted with snow, unlike long blades.

While you’re thinking about fall lawn care jobs, there’s another task you shouldn’t forget. Aerating your lawn will create a thick and greener lawn — and September is the time to do it. This process helps break down layers of thatch, which, if left, can suffocate your grass.

More from Tom's Guide

• Can you cut wet grass? Here's how it could affect your lawn, and your mower
• 5 easy ways to get rid of crabgrass on your lawn
• Best gardening gloves

As September begins, I’m noticing that my backyard is looking a bit peaky after a hot, dry summer. But, as all gardeners know, there are still jobs to be done, even though the flowers are turning and the leaves are beginning to fall.

A much-loved garden expert in the U.K., Monty Don, has revealed that even though the temperatures begin to cool, there are plenty of jobs to keep you busy in your yard.

While we've looked at which plant seeds to sow right now for bountiful late fall harvests, it’s also a perfect time to take care of your grass, with Don declaring that September is the ideal time to aerate your lawn.

Aerating your lawn will give your patch a new lease of life and encourage it to grow thicker and greener, according to Don's September garden advice. It involves increasing the air circulation by loosening the soil by making small piercing holes in the ground.

It has huge benefits, apart from helping water to absorb and drain more effectively, it also gives your grass roots more space to grow and allows better access to much-needed nutrients.

Aside from the above, lawn aeration helps to break down layers of thatch, known as dead grass, which can suffocate your lawn.

How to aerate your lawn

What’s more, aerating your lawn isn’t tricky. "You can use a fork by working the tines into the ground at 12-inch intervals or, for a larger lawn, hire a rolling hollow tine or slitter. Ideally, this is followed by working sand into the holes they create with a stiff brush," says Don.

He then advises working over the grass with a wire rake to remove the thatch and moss, which will give your lawn more space to breathe.

And although Don mentions that your lawn may appear a little thin and lacklustre this fall, the work you do now will help rejuvenate your lawn and help it appear thicker and greener next year.

How to improve small patches of threadbare lawn

But if you want to focus on a particularly weak patch of lawn, Don recommends taking the following steps.

1. Rake away the thatch and moss.
2. Remove all weeds.
3. Scatter grass seed onto the patch.
4. Give the area a thorough water.

“The seed should germinate and grow in days. Do not mow it for at least a month, and if it looks unsightly going into winter, clip the new growth with shears,” Don concludes.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to use coffee grounds as lawn fertilizer — 5 tips for a lush lawn
• 7 plant seeds to sow right now for bountiful late fall harvests
• Best gardening gloves in 2025: Tested and rated

One of my favorite things to do in the summertime is getting out in my backyard and planting some flowers, making it a lovely place for me to sit and read a book while all the bees enjoy the flowers. But ask me to do any real manual labour and you’ll get a firm "no."

I’ve never been one for cutting the grass, and much to my dad’s dismay, I can always find an iron-clad excuse as to why "I can’t use the lawnmower today." But since getting the Mowrator S1 2WD, I’m the first to volunteer for yard work.

The Mowrator is a remote-controlled lawnmower that is perfect for anyone tired of dragging their lawnmower back and forth across the yard. Thanks to the controller, it makes cutting grass feel like a video game, and I couldn’t wait to get going.

How it works

The initial setup process of the Mowrator S1 2WD is very simple. I only had to attach the four wheels with some screws and install the battery unit. The version I used was the 12Ah battery version, but it's also available with an 18Ah battery if you have a larger yard and need a longer run time.

The controller connects to the mower, and you’re away. It's ridiculously simple. I was able to maneuver the mower onto the grass by steadily using the joysticks on the controller, so I didn’t need to carry the mower.

But if you do need to take it down some steps, you will need a helping hand, as the high-strength aluminum alloy frame makes it pretty heavy.

The blades start up by holding down the two blade buttons at the top of the controller and the LCD screen in the centre of the controller tells you that the blades are working.

Changing the speed and height settings of the mower is easy too. To change the speed the mower moves and the speed the blade cuts, there are switches on the remote. For changing the height of the grass cutting action, there is a small gear stick on the side of the mower.

Safety features

I would spring for this mower for the safety features alone; they made me feel secure when doing the yard work, and I knew I could rely on it.

There are four ultrasonic radars around the mower, and these stopped the mower from moving too close to any object. I had to stand a safe distance away from the mower or it wouldn’t move, but this worked out great for me as I could just sit back and relax.

This also meant that if my dog got too close to the mower, it would immediately stop moving, even when the blade wasn't running.

You need to give the mower your attention at all times, so the blade will only operate if one of the blade buttons on the controller is held down. When this is released, the blade stops immediately.

To get close to the edges of my lawn, I turned off the sensors and made sure to pay close attention to my surroundings. But this doesn’t mean all safety features were off.

The bumper on the front of the mower helps it detect any crashes. This is very sensitive, and when I bumped into a bush, the mower fully stopped.

Bonus: My dad loves it

Sure, I love the Mowrator S1 2WD, but it is my dad who has mowed the grass in our yard every summer, so he is the real test. And when he was using the mower, he looked like a kid on Christmas: it is the ultimate grown-up toy.

More from Tom’s Guide

• I Asked a Muscle-Building Expert How to Train Your Core For Real Strength — Here’s the 5 Moves They Swear By
• I test drones for a living and I’ve found the 5 best deals this Labor Day — save up to $330 on DJI, Potensic and HoverAir
• 7 Top New Movies and Shows to Stream This Weekend on Prime Video, Netflix and More (Aug. 29-31)

Every gardener knows that keeping a lush lawn requires a heap of work. So, when you do have the chance to sit back and take your hard work in, it’s well deserved. What’s more, in the summer, as we face a warmer climate with less rain, keeping an immaculate lawn is an even greater challenge.

So, while we keep ourselves hydrated, our lawns need the same treatment — but it’s knowing the best way to water our lawns so we don’t cause more harm than good. To discover how to care for a lawn in a heatwave, I called on the expertise of lawn care professionals to share their expert advice.

How does a lawn react in a heatwave?

During a heatwave, lawns are stressed by high temperatures, increased evaporation of moisture, and a lack of rainfall. And it’s during this high-stress period that grass can become damaged. Matt Cline, CEO at HillSide Lawn Services, explains that during this time, the roots contract and get closer to the surface. However, he says, “It would take a very, very long drought and high heat period to really cause damage.”

Cline gives some consolation about a heat-stressed lawn, adding that many people assume that when their lawn turns brown, it’s a problem, while, in reality, it’s protecting itself by becoming dormant, which is a normal occurrence.

How often should you water your lawn in a heatwave?

You may be surprised to learn that lawn experts advise against watering your lawn every day in a heatwave, but when you do, it’s important to irrigate your lawn properly to prevent stress.

So, how often should you water your lawn when the heat is on full pelt? Ionel Guuran, landscaping and lawn care expert at Fantastic Gardeners, says that two to three times a week should be sufficient.

However, other experts, including Ryan Walts, training manager and business coach at Lawn Squad, suggest increasing this amount to three to four times a week. But, whichever advice you take, your lawn doesn’t need to be watered every day.

How much water does your lawn need?

“On average, lawns require 1-2 inches of rainfall or irrigation weekly to maintain their healthy green appearance,” says Walts. “Under normal, non-drought weather conditions, watering three mornings per week at 20-30 minutes per area of the lawn is typically enough to help satisfy the lawn’s water requirements.”

However, during heatwaves, Walts says you may need to increase your watering time to between 45-60 minutes. However, the length of time will all depend on how much water your irrigation system expels.

The amount of water you apply to your lawn will also vary depending on your soil type. “Water runs more quickly through light or sandy soil, so frequent, light watering may be better for your lawn if you have this type of soil,” says Allison Koenig, Lawn and Garden Expert at Tractor Supply.

Go deep

The key to watering your lawn correctly is to give it a long, deep soak, rather than a quick, short soak. “The goal is to apply enough water to penetrate the top 6 to 8 inches [15 to 20 cm] of soil, where the majority of grass roots are located. This encourages deeper root growth, which in turn helps the lawn become more drought-resistant and resilient under extreme heat stress,” Guuran explains.

Why shallowing watering is a mistake

In hot, dry conditions, lawns lose moisture quickly through evaporation and transpiration. However, it can be easy to make the mistake of watering too much. Guuran says, “Frequent shallow watering, which is a common mistake, only wets the surface and encourages shallow roots, making the grass more vulnerable to heat and drought.”

Why you need to get the balance just right

Issues can arise if you underwater or overwater your lawn. Troy Hake, owner at Outsidepride, explains, “Underwatering grass leads to many possible issues from yellow or brown discoloration and shallow roots to a dry or crispy feel and appearance. Too much water can cause shallow root systems, which makes the lawn more susceptible to drought and grub damage.”

When is the best time to water your lawn?

I've always believed that a lawn should be watered at night, but experts say I’ve been doing it wrong. Giuran says, “The ideal time to water is early in the morning, usually between 5 a.m. and 9 a.m. This gives the lawn time to absorb the moisture before the heat of the day, reducing evaporation losses and helping prevent disease.”

Don Chouinard, contract sales manager at Irrigreen, also explains, “Morning is when plants absorb water the most effectively. That’s when their stomata (tiny pores on their leaves) are open, so they’re ready to take in moisture.”

If you water at night, the water will linger on the grass blades for longer, which can lead to fungal problems, such as brown patch or dollar spot, especially when the weather is warm and humid.

While watering your lawn at night is a bad idea, watering it during the middle of the day is even worse. “When the sun is high and the temperatures are at their peak, water evaporates really quickly, so your plants don’t get as much benefit. Plus, water droplets on leaves can act like tiny magnifying glasses and cause leaf burn. This is especially true in summer when the heat is intense,” says Chouinard.

How to take the hard work out of watering your lawn

If you’ve got a large expanse of lawn, apart from having one of the best robot lawnmowers, you’re going to want to invest in a sprinkler or irrigation system to make your life easier.

“Some sprinkler systems and smart controllers can complete a lot of the legwork for you,” says Chouinard, and adds, “Look for systems that leverage AI to pair local weather patterns with the unique attributes of your lawn to automatically set watering schedules.”

More from Tom's Guide

• Experts recommend the 'caveman method' for keeping your house cool in a heatwave — here's how it works
• Sprinkler vs. hose: which is better for your lawn?
• 5 things to consider before buying a water sprinkler system, according to experts

If you want to keep your lush lawn in top-notch shape for summer, you’ll probably be cutting your grass frequently, and staying on top of gardening.

And while there are plenty of surprising ways to repurpose grass clippings, gardeners are urged not to make this one mistake when using clippings on the lawn.

In fact, this common mistake to solve one issue could even make the problem worse. So, before you put those lawn clippings to good use, make sure you're doing it the right way!

Using clippings as an odor remover

For some, the pleasant smell of freshly cut grass can disguise any lingering yard odors, coming from plants or organic waste. This is why gardeners tend to leave clippings on their lawn to get that earthy, ‘summertime’ aroma.

However, if left for too long, this fresh cut grass scent can quickly go from sweet to stinky – defeating the purpose. This is mainly because grass, like other green organic materials, contains a lot of moisture.

And if a pile is left in your yard, or it’s applied in a thick layer, it will become soggy and heavy as it rapidly rots — creating a stink.

Luckily, there are easy ways to keep the smell of fresh grass in your yard.

How to use grass clippings in your yard

Another key benefit is that mulched clippings can strengthen grass and soil, making the ideal, natural fertilizer.

Experts recommend mowing your lawn often, as this produces shorter clippings, up to 1 inch long, that are less prone to rotting and smelling bad.

Additionally, when spreading grass clippings to your yard, it’s best to apply in thin layers (¼ inch), to avoid clumpy piles that will smell as they decompose.

Another top tip is to mix in a ratio of 1/3 grass clippings to 2/3 brown material like dead leaves, cardboard, or twigs. This will help to prevent nitrogen-rich grass clippings from creating that rancid smell.

Alternatively, you could simply use fragrant hedge plants to make your yard smell amazing, or plant aromatic lavender, lemon or fresh mint.

It’s also important to note, before you spread grass around your yard, ensure you dry your clippings in the sun for a day or so. And never use clippings that have been treated with chemicals or other herbicides.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• how to make your lawn thicker in 7 simple steps
• This pre-mowing tip will make your lawn green and lush this summer