As late summer transitions into autumn, North America’s smallest birds begin preparing for one of the most grueling journeys in the animal kingdom.

Before flying south to their wintering grounds in Mexico and Central America, many hummingbirds must fuel up for non-stop flights that, for some species, include a harrowing five-hundred-mile stretch across open water.

While natural environmental cues like decreasing daylight hours signal when it is time for them to depart, backyard bird feeders provide a crucial, high-energy pit stop along their migration highway.

The physics of migration

Understanding the extreme physical demands of migration highlights why suburban backyards matter so much in the fall.

In the weeks leading up to departure, hummingbirds enter a state of extreme hyperphagia, eating constantly to gain twenty-five to forty percent of their body weight in fat store reserves. This rapid fat gain is essential because their tiny bodies burn energy at an astounding rate.

During migration flight, a hummingbird's heart beats up to twelve hundred times per minute while its wings flap anywhere from fifteen to eighty times every second.

Migration occurs in staggered waves, starting with adult males in late summer, followed by females, and finally young birds making the journey for the very first time well into fall.

How to help hummingbirds prepare for migration

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Grab your gardening gloves and make the most of September, as according to one plant expert, this is the best month to plant without spending a dime.

Gardening can be an expensive hobby if you rely on nursery plants to build your beds. But if you’re clever and don't mind a little work, you can make the most of what you’ve already got.

Here, Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor to Platinum Hot Tubs, explains how you can expand your planting for free.

September is the perfect time to divide and multiply

With the soil still warm from summer and temperatures beginning to cool, September is an ideal time to divide many established perennials — those plants that come up year after year.

“Dividing perennials is one of my favorite gardening jobs because you’re essentially getting free plants while also improving the health of the original one,” says Mabey. “This gives newly divided plants an opportunity to establish their roots before winter arrives, helping them get off to a strong start the following spring.”

The process can also help you tidy up your garden while encouraging healthy growth. He explains, “Over time, established clumps can become overcrowded, which can affect their vigor and flowering. Dividing them gives each section more room to grow, and the added bonus is that you can fill gaps elsewhere in the garden or give the extra plants away.”

Which perennials can you divide in September?

The best candidates to divide in September are spring- and summer-blooming perennials. Peonies, hostas, daylilies, and bearded irises are all worth dividing, as well as coneflowers and black-eyed Susans, Shasta daisies and yarrow.

However, not all perennials should be divided, as some have deep taproots, single woody bases or fragile root systems that cannot withstand the stress.

For instance, false indigo and globe thistle are two taprooted plants that shouldn’t be divided, while lavender and Russian sage have woody stems that may fail to recover, and lupines and foxgloves are considered too delicate.

How to divide garden plants

Dividing your perennials will allow you to rejuvenate overcrowded plants while creating new ones for free — all within your own backyard.

Here are the five steps Mabey recommends.

1. Dig up the entire clump

Carefully lift the established plant from the ground, using a spade or fork, taking care to retain as much of the root system as possible. You can then remove any loose dirt around the roots.

Top tip

To keep your plants in optimal health, avoid dividing them on a sunny day when they are likely to dry out between being transplanted. A few days of showers ahead will also help keep them moist while they settle in.

2. Split the plant into sections

For tough or larger clumps, Mabey suggests using a sharp garden spade to slice through the plant. Alternatively, he suggests placing two garden forks back-to-back in the center of the clump and gently prying the sections apart.

3. Take a gentler approach with delicate plants

Some perennials need a gentler approach. Instead of using a garden spade or fork, Mabey says he often uses a pruning saw or bread knife to divide plants such as hostas.

Rather than getting your bread knife covered in soil, I’d suggest trying a hori hori knife, like the Nisaku’s Original Hori Hori Knife, $22 at Amazon.

4. Replant each section

Once you’ve divided your plant, keep each section shaded and moist until they are replanted. You can then place them in prepared soil, with enough surrounding space to grow and establish.

Top tip

Make sure you complete this step at least 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost — particularly important in colder northern USDA growing zones — as it will allow the roots to establish in good time.

5. Water thoroughly

Give newly divided plants a generous watering to help the roots settle into their new position. Keep them moist rather than soggy, while the developing roots establish in the soil.

The amount of supplementary water needed will depend on rainfall, temperature, wind and soil conditions, with the Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment at the University of Massachusetts Amherst advising to maintain weekly watering until the ground freezes.

Don't forget about the seeds

Dividing perennials isn’t the only way gardeners can expand their collection for free. Mabey says, “September is also a great time to start saving seeds from flowers that are beginning to fade. Instead of deadheading every spent bloom, leave a few healthy flowers to develop seed heads.”

And he adds that saving your own seeds is incredibly rewarding and means you can continue growing plants you already know perform well in your garden.

“Gardening doesn’t always have to be expensive. Sometimes the best way to get more plants is simply to make the most of the ones already growing in your garden,” he adds.

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Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher or simply enjoy the beauty of colorful hummingbirds in your backyard, you might benefit from having a nest to make your garden more inviting.

And since I love nothing more than watching beautiful birds hovering around, I’ve just found the perfect hummingbird house for my garden (who knew?).

The Hummingbird House at Amazon consists of three wooden nesting spots designed to accommodate their tiny 4-inch body size. It also provides shelter and warmth, and a groove on top offers food, making it the ideal home.

Not only can they live safely inside, away from predators, but these hummingbird nests will instantly spruce up your yard.

Here’s why I’ll be buying a few to create a hummingbird haven.

How to use a hummingbird house

Perhaps what caught my attention was just how beautiful these wooden nests look. And unlike traditional boxy bird feeders, they won’t look out of place with my garden style. Handcrafted from pine wood, these nests also have a natural aroma that’s known to entice more hummingbirds into your outdoor space — even better.

You simply hang these nests on a sturdy pole or tree and watch the hummingbirds flock to their resting spots. I also love the way it’s designed with a neat food storage and feeder at the top of the ‘house’ and a drainage hole at the bottom to ensure it’s kept clean.

Best of all, hummingbirds will love their homes, as it will provide a cozy and safe haven all year round!

Things not to feed hummingbirds

Similar to knowing how to feed birds in winter, it’s useful to know the right types of food to give to hummingbirds. These would need to be suited to their species, offering the nutritional value that they need.

Bread — While it’s tempting to feed scraps, bread has no nutritional value for birds and will only fill up their stomachs. This will prevent them from eating sufficient seeds and grains with more nutritional benefits.

Meat — Never add raw meat to the feeder as this can attract unwanted guests like rodents, cats or foxes. Plus, meat will spoil very quickly and can be fatal to birds.

Salt — Too much salt is toxic for birds and can affect their nervous system. This includes salted nuts or other heavily salted foodstuffs.

Household food scraps — These won’t be appealing to birds and will only attract rodents or foxes to the feeder. Plus, any food cooked in oil or garlic will be harmful to birds.

It's advisable to stick with a suitable bird food mix, or you could try this simple nectar recipe, which will attract hummingbirds to your yard.

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• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

It’s been a rough summer on our yards. Extended heatwaves and dry spells have left many gardens looking parched and depleted, and I’ve missed the abundance of color that I‘ve come to expect during peak season.

If the summer scorcher left you feeling depondent, don’t despair; fall offers a fresh start. September is the ideal time to rest, enrich your soil and get new plants in the ground. And with cooler temperatures on the horizon, your yard will soon be full of golden autumnal color.

Here are the top 5 plants I recommend adding to your yard this September for a rich kaleidoscope of fall hues.

1. Rudbeckia

Rudbeckias — commonly known as black-eyed Susans — bring an instant splash of bright color to a fall yard. Their golden petals and bold centers radiate a sunny disposition, making them a standout choice for fall color. Beyond their cheerful appearance, rudbeckias are low-maintenance plants and magnets for pollinators, too.

How to plant

Position in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, into well-draining soil. To extend the flowering period, deadhead the plants by pinching off the blooms at the base of the stem, or cut them back after they flower to encourage a second surge.

Rudbeckias are suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

2. Sedum

Sedums are a winner in the late summer and early fall, and if your garden has experienced a tough summer season of hot, dry weather, they are a firm survivor. The flowers are loved by bees and butterflies, and the beautiful seed heads remain stunning into winter.

How to plant

Choose a sunny spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day. If your soil is poor at draining, loosen the soil before planting and add sand, grit or perlite to encourage better drainage. Sedums shouldn’t need additional water, as their fleshy leaves store water, making them perfect for dry regions.

Sedums do well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

3. Heuchera

Heucheras are grown for their foliage, rather than their flowers, and they make a stunning statement at the front of a border. I love the bright hues of lime green heuchera, which won’t fail to add a vibrant pop of color to your fall garden, but if you prefer more rustic tones, you can opt for burgundy or russet foliage.

How to plant

Place the plant in rich, well-drained soil in a spot that receives 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, if you have heavy clay soil, amend it to improve drainage before planting. If planting multiples, place 1-2 feet apart.

Heucheras perform well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but do check the variety.

4. Japanese anemone

Japanese anemones have elegant flowers that will add a light touch and graceful movement to any garden. They will brighten any shady corner with their stunning blooms and create a striking visual contrast when planted with grasses. Even better, for low-maintenance gardeners, their sturdy stems rarely need staking, and they are generally free of pests and diseases. Plus, their late-season blooms provide a feast for pollinators.

How to plant

Plant in full sun to partial shade, and protect the foliage and blooms from afternoon sun in hot climates. Japanese anemones thrive in moist, fertile, well-draining soil, but don’t like soils that remain cold and wet during winter. The roots will benefit from a layer of mulch in late fall to protect them from frost.

Japanese anemones do well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but check your variety before planting.

5. Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses introduce texture and movement, catching the breeze, to give your garden a natural, relaxed feel. Their delicate seed heads add visual interest heading into late fall and winter, while their fine foliage softens hard landscaping and bold planting.

While many ornamental grasses turn golden brown in the fall, Pink Muhly Grass explodes into a cloudy haze of cotton-candy pink. For something a little more understated, you might prefer Japanese Forest Grass, with golden foliage that turns to copper and orange.

How to plant

Select a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day and well-draining soil — waterlogged earth will cause their roots to rot. Keep in mind that light requirements vary by species; for instance, Japanese Forest Grass prefers shade, so always check the plant label first.

Guidelines vary depending on which species and variety you pick, but most ornamental grasses will thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3 through to 9.

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The countdown to Father's Day 2026 is officially on, with just 9 days to go until Sunday, September 6 in Australia.

With Aussie spring just around the corner, if your dad loves his garden or going camping, then Father's Day is a great time to get him some new outdoorsy gear. Whether he's an avid gardener, outdoor chef or just a guy who enjoys sitting out in his yard in the sunshine, I've sorted 12 of the best outdoor Father's Day gifts below.

All of these items come with 4-star reviews on Amazon, and same-day or fast delivery, so your gift will arrive perfectly on (or before) the big day. So scroll on to find the best Father's Day gardening and outdoor gifts for dad this year.

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Hummingbirds are among the most popular wildlife species that visit our yards; they are beautiful. That’s why I wanted to discover if hummingbirds will keep coming back to the same spot year after year, and if so, how we can make their survival easier.

I posed the question to Bob Mulvihill, lead ornithologist at the National Aviary, to learn more about hummingbirds’ behavior.

Hummingbird's are creatures of habit

“Like many migratory birds, hummingbirds navigate to the same spots each year for breeding and wintering,” explains Mulvihill.

“Banding studies prove that some hummingbirds even find their way to the same rest spot along the migratory route.”

And it turns out that hummingbirds have excellent spatial memories, which is why they can return year after year.

For us, this means that if you welcomed hummingbirds into your backyard last year, it’s highly likely that the same birds will appear this year. Hummingbirds are creatures of habit.

“People often report seeing hummingbirds in early spring hovering at the exact spot where the hummingbird feeder hung the year before,” says Mulvihill.

So what happens if you change your habits? Fortunately, it won’t throw the birds off course.

Mulvihill explains that if you decide to move your hummingbird feeder, or even if a person has moved on and there’s no longer a feeder around, it won’t cause much distress.

Hummingbirds find feeders easy to spot.

It seems that if you do move your feeder to another place in your backyard, your regular visitors will still be able to find it. The bright color makes it easy to identify.

Mulvihill explains, “Because the color red is so attention-getting — especially against a spring or summer green background — hummingbirds have an easy time finding feeders and flowers wherever they may be, and wherever they may pop up tomorrow!”

3 ways to make life easier for hummingbirds

Although Mulvihill says hummingbirds won’t be put out if the previous hummingbird feeder they relied upon for nectar has been moved, there are steps you can take to improve the life and well-being of these tiny creatures.

1. Keep them fed and watered

“Hummingbirds will benefit greatly if everyone would provide flowers and clean feeders filled with fresh sugar and water from spring through to fall, and, if possible, a source of flowing or misting water for them, too,” he advises.

You can make your own hummingbird nectar using a simple water-and-sugar combo, mixing one part sugar with four parts water.

The nectar can be added to a hummingbird feeder, and if you want to catch them in action, you could invest in a smart hummingbird feeder. However, a standard red feeder with yellow nectar ports that replicate a flower is ideal.

Don’t forget about the power of plants. Aside from providing sugared water, hummingbirds will flock to your yard if it’s planted with nectar-rich flowers, like the cup and saucer vine.

Apart from providing calorie-rich nectar, hummingbirds will welcome a regular source of water. They particularly like misting devices, as traditional bird baths are too deep for their tiny frames. The fine spray will help them stay hydrated and act as a shower to keep their feathers clean and their bodies cool.

2. Avoid window collisions

Hummingbirds are frequent victims of bird-window collisions, so to help them spot a window before it’s too late, Mulvihull recommends making your window panes bird-safe.

One way to prevent hummingbirds from cascading into your windows is to add barriers or marks to your glazing. The International Hummingbird Society, suggests adding lines or shapes, which are at least 1/4inch wide in light or high-contrast colors. And it recommends spacing them no more than two inches apart horizontally or 4 inches apart vertically.

You might also want to try opaque window film, such as the Collidescape white bird film, $29 at Amazon.

Finding the ideal spot for your hummingbird feeders will also help. Mulvihull suggests positioning your feeder at least 25 feet away from any windows.

3. Be pet aware

Nesting season for hummingbirds, which varies by region, is a prime time for predators. So, if you own a pet, Mulvihull advises being extra vigilant during this time.

And he suggests keeping your cat restrained or indoors. Hummingbirds will avoid nesting in an area that’s patrolled by predators — and to them that includes your cat or dog.

Unlike other birds, hummingbirds won’t nest in birdhouses; instead, they build their nests in tree limbs and on other horizontal surfaces. The National Audubon Society suggests maintaining shrubbery and planting small deciduous trees in your backyard to provide hummingbirds with a safe nesting place.

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• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

Fish owners, rejoice! That (rather pungent) tank clean you have to steel yourself for every so often can double up as a clever gardening hack. As rumour has it, fish tank water is a brilliant source of nutrients to pour over leafy green plants in your garden.

So, next time you're cleaning and removing water from your aquarium, be mindful of the fact that this stuff is essentially liquid gold for gardeners.

There are some dos and don'ts, of course, but the water from most freshwater fish tanks can be a great, mild, and natural fertilizer not just for your garden, but also for indoor plants such as herbs. Interested? Now considering buying some fish? Me too, actually. Here's what else to know...

How exactly can fish tank water help plants?

Here's the very simple reason why: old fish tank water contains fish faeces, which is mainly ammonia. This waste converts from ammonia into nitrite, all thanks to either the filter or gravel in the tank. And as we all know, nitrogen is a form of plant fertilizer. So, not only will this water hydrate your plants, but they'll get a much-needed fertilizer boost at the same time.

It goes without saying, but we'd only suggest giving this water to plants that are in need of fertilizer. Avoid pouring this water on plants that you've recently tended to — because excess nitrogen can harm plants, causing very rapid growth that may threaten the quality of your produce.

If your fish tank is placed rather close to the exit to your backyard, you're winning — this makes it a less stressful job of worrying about spilling this smelly water on your floors.

Better yet? This gardening hack doesn't just mean more water for your plants, but it means you're throwing away less water each time you clean your tank. Instead of throwing it down the drain, pour it into your watering can and make good use of it in your backyard.

Which plants to focus on the most when working with fish tank water? If we're thinking of the ones that will get the most benefit, then focus on herbs like basil, mint, parsley, coriander and rosemary. When it comes to vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, spinach, and cucumbers will love fish tank water. Your fruit plants needn't miss out either: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and citrus plants will all love this extra nitrogen boost.

Produce isn't the only thing that you can use this gardening hack for. If you have a rose bush or plant, then you're winning. The same goes for hydrangeas, lavender, marigolds, and geraniums.

Maybe now you can rethink the kids asking you for a pet once a week!

Final thoughts

It should be noted, though, that this isn't the rule with all fish tanks. Only freshwater ones. Saltwater aquariums don't follow the same rule, so we wouldn't use this for watering your plants since the salt makes it harder for the roots to absorb water.

Be mindful if you've recently added any chemicals or medication to your tank. If you have, check whether what you've added claims to be "plant safe". If you're still unsure, then it's best to avoid using it on your plants until you're sure it won't hurt them. Definitely avoid using the water if you've used any copper-containing treatments in your tank recently.

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It's officially de-weeding season. It's a job that nobody likes to do, but it's a necessity for a tidy backyard. Because there's no point in investing in high-quality patio furniture, choosing the perfect outdoor cushions, and even ensuring that you've got the best grill around, just to let your garden look untidy from weeds.

Take it from me and tackle them now before it's too late. Don't let them grow wild, as it makes the job twice as hard. You should see my front patio — untameable is an understatement, and I just keep putting it off because truly, I don't have the right gear to get it done fast.

That was until I spotted Martha Stewart's gardening line at QVC. Filled with pretty necessities for any gardener, the weeding tool is truly what my garden toolset had been missing.

It's not too large to store in my busy shed; it's easy to handle and best of all: it's super versatile. So much so that Martha herself owns several; she proudly claims.

So, what exactly is the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

You can find everything from patio furniture to gardening gloves and more in the Martha Stewart Outdoor Living section at QVC.

This cultivator tool is similar to most other handheld ones; however, its versatility makes it stand out and is the real reason Martha loves it so much.

Martha explains that its design originates from Japan and its unique shape allows it to not only dig into the ground, but it can also be used to scrape weeds. It has a sturdy wooden handle which makes it easy to grip tight, too, for when you're working with tough roots or extra dry soil.

Martha continues to add that it's her absolute "favourite hand tool of all", claiming that it's super versatile. "I have one of these in every garden bag," says Stewart to QVC.

How to use the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

Much like any other cultivator tool, this is recommended for use to dig weeds out of soil. Its sharp point allows it to pierce into the ground, whether hard or soft at the time, and to scoop out deep-set weeds with ease.

Thanks to this sharp edge, you can even use this tool between tight paving slabs. It also works wonders in loosening weeds, not only digging them out.

This tool is easy to use one-handed, meaning it doesn't require a lot of elbow work, while it makes a quick job of de-weeding a space.

Once you're finished, go ahead and turn it over to its flat edge and use this to scrape these weeds into a pile. Handy for moving debris across your patio and out of your way, plus it won't damage your floor or surface.

Another way to use it? For seeding! Reviewer Dorothea claims it "works great for weeding and making rows for seeds".

JSYK: It might be worth considering which is your dominant hand, as this tool will be more convenient to use if you are right-handed due to its design and shape.

Don't just take it from us — reviewers love this handy tool, too. "Since receiving this tool I have used it non stop when working in my yard. Works great at up rooting my weeds--worth every cent!", claims shopper FLNonny. Another happy reviewer, glassiegirl, adds, "Where has this been all my life??".

There's more where this de-weeder came from, too, as shopper KS Girl raves, "Best garden tool I own. I won’t buy from anyone else that sells garden tools. Please bring us more Martha!". Yes, you can also buy a Martha Stewart 4-piece Trowel Set from QVC, plus a 6-set of Gardening Gloves, and 3 Garden Soil Scoops.

Would you buy this de-weeding tool for yourself or a friend? It'd make the perfect gift for a budding gardener.

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Weeds are the bugbear of all gardeners, sprouting out wherever they see fit to invade our yards. And while many are beneficial to pollinators, when they rear their heads in our carefully curated gardens, they are usually unwelcome.

The current hot summer has decimated many of my regular ‘reliable’ plants, and I’ve also noticed that the heat, combined with the lack of rainfall, has reduced the number of weeds in my patch.

But according to one weed expert, I shouldn’t let this lead me into a false sense of security because there’s one clever weed that goes undetected in the heat and keeps active underground, while all is quiet above.

Japanese knotweed — the underground criminal

According to Jennifer Holmes, head of marketing and business development at Japanese Knotweed Ltd, homeowners shouldn’t assume that the hot weather has killed off Japanese knotweed — the invasive weed remains alive underground and will start to regrow once conditions improve.

While other plants struggle to survive due to a lack of water, Holmes explains that Japanese knotweed’s extensive underground rhizome system allows it to store energy and withstand harsh conditions. She warns that a seemingly dead patch could be hiding a bigger problem beneath the surface.

But why is it such a cause of concern? Helen Rolph, home insurance expert at Quotezone, says, "Japanese knotweed is a seriously invasive plant that can cause some real damage to homes and gardens, so it’s important people are aware of how to recognize it and what to do if it’s present on their property.”

“Climate change is forcing plants into a ‘survival of the fittest’ mode, explains Holmes. “While other plants will struggle in the drought due to a lack of water, Japanese knotweed carries on almost unfazed!”

And she adds this headstrong weed can survive both prolonged heatwaves and sub-zero temperatures.

She says many homeowners assume hot, dry weather will kill Japanese knotweed, but this is a common misconception. “Although the visible stems and leaves may show signs of stress — wilted leaves and stems — during periods of drought, the plant remains alive."

The plant’s extensive rhizome system conserves and stores energy, allowing it to pick up where it left off when conditions become more favorable.

Resilient non-native plants

Non-native plants such as Japanese knotweed are more resilient to heatwaves than native plants, so you may see knotweed becoming more prevalent as other plants die back completely.

So while you may think Japanese knotweed is no longer a threat, she warns homeowners to be vigilant.“Look out for reddish-purple shoots, bamboo-like stems, zig-zag patterned growth and shovel-shaped leaves,” and warns, “Japanese knotweed can spread rapidly because even small fragments of the plant’s underground rhizome system can develop into new growth.”

The problem with Japanese knotweed

Although Japanese knotweed does not directly kill other plants, Holmes warns that its aggressive growth can quickly dominate an area by blocking light and taking up space — making it difficult for surrounding vegetation to compete.

“We would urge homeowners not to cut, dig up or attempt to remove suspected Japanese knotweed themselves, as disturbing the plant can spread fragments and make the problem more difficult to manage,” she advises.

How to take control of Japanese knotweed

In the U.K., the plant is also deemed ‘controlled waste’, so a licensed contractor must carry out the disposal of knotweed materials and contaminated soils. It does not come under the same regulation in the U.S., although it is still considered a severe non-native invasive plant.

If you spot what looks like knotweed or any other suspect invasive plant in your garden, she suggests using the Japanese Knotweed’s free plant identifier tool to double-check before you take any further steps. And, of course, other plant identifier tools are available, too.

If you have a problem with Japanese knotweed, it shouldn’t be treated like a regular weed; pulling it up won’t stop it coming back. Check out Holmes' previous advice on how to remove Japanese knotweed to stop it from taking over your yard.

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I hate de-weeding. It's arguably the worst gardening job out there; in fact, I'd rather mow my lawn ten times over than de-weed my patio.

So, when I discovered this genius weed-killer hack and quickly realised I already had the one ingredient it required under my kitchen sink, I felt like I'd mastered the game.

Usually, I tackle my weeds with a mix of white vinegar and boiling water. Admittedly, this method works, but it takes a few tries. It's great because it's completely pet-safe, but weeds do return rather fast.

I'll still be using this for my yard where there are larger patches of weeds, and where my dog often visits, but at the moment my front porch patio is out of control, so instead of vinegar and boiling water, I'll be giving biological laundry powder a try.

Yes, this recently viral weed killer hack isn't just convenient, but it actually works!

So what exactly is the biological laundry detergent weed killer hack?

Not only can this magic powder prevent weed growth, but it also adds a pleasant scent to your paving slabs. "Biological washing powder is something a lot of us already have at home, yet very few people think to use it outside," claims Bill Jarvis, an expert and co-founder of patio paint supplier Premium Paints.

"It can be a handy option for weeds growing in the joints between paving slabs, especially if you catch them before they become established," he adds.

This is a genius gardening hack for those narrow gaps in your yard where you've noticed weeds normally thrive. This way, you can easily stay on top of your tidy patio, and you won't find yourself panic spreading weed killer before hosting a family barbecue.

How to use laundry powder on your weeds

The first part of this task is simple. Sprinkle a scoop of powder over the weeded area and water it lightly. Leave it a few days to settle, and then dig out your (probably dirty, let's be honest) gardening gloves.

Then, you're going to need to get your hands a little dirty and go ahead and yank out those smaller weeds. "If you deal with weeds while they are still small, they are much easier to manage. Waiting until the patio is completely overgrown usually means a much bigger job," says Jarvis.

Once removed, give this area a good sweep to push away any debris, leaves, or even lost seeds.

"A lot of it comes down to timing", adds Jarvis. Don't let weeds get too big or you'll struggle to remove them and keep them at bay. This means that you need to treat those problem areas frequently.

This bio laundry weed killer hack might not be the be-all and end-all for larger patches of weeds. But it will be a game-changer for filling the cracks in between your paving slabs, to help prevent those pesky weeds from growing back rapidly.

Just don't forget to brush fresh weeds away as they form, as leaving them can spread them fast, and sweeping these hot spots can prevent deep roots from forming.

Let us know in the comments if this hack worked on your weeds.

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• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

I've got two bird feeders in my garden already, but I recently learned I need one more. Why? Well, there's a special one specifically designed to attract hummingbirds – and I'd love to have more of these adorable, vibrant birds coming to visit.

Not only are they lovely to look at, showing off their unique flying moves from hoovering in midair to flying backward, but they're also great pollinators, boosting your garden's ecosystem for the better.

But, while I've figured out the type of feeder I need, designed to hold liquid sugar water with flower shapes to suit their long beaks, I've also discovered that there's a sweet spot on where you should hang them – and fortunately, it's pretty simple.

So, if you're like me and are eager to attract hummingbirds to your outside space, here's everything you need to know about exactly where it should go for the best chance at attracting these feathered friends.

Where should I hang my feeder?

When hanging your hummingbird feeder, it turns out it's the height that's really important. For this, you want to aim for about 6 feet off the ground. This is a sweet spot for hummingbirds as it's high enough to stay away from predators (namely cats) so acts as a safe space for them to settle down and eat.

But, you want to make sure you're not placing it too high. This would put it away from natural food sources in your yard like flowers and shrubs, as well as opportunities for water.

They also won't be looking for a feeder up that high, especially if it's away from where they'd usually travel. As well as height though, there's a couple of other things to consider when hanging up your feeder.

Keeping it away from windows so they don't crash into the glass is also important, as well as putting it in a shaded area with a touch of sun so that the nectar stays fresh. If you leave it in direct sunlight, the nectar can spoil and make the hummingbirds sick.

Something even better you can do? The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service recommends growing specific plants to attract hummingbirds to your yard: "Hummingbirds prefer to nest near a ready supply of nectar and other food like insects, so you can encourage them to live in or near your home or business by maintaining some shrubbery and deciduous trees in which they can seek protective cover."

"As seasons change, it can also help to leave any leaf litter on the ground as it becomes important habitat for many of the insects and spiders they also eat."

What to put in your hummingbird feeder

Yes, hummingbirds like to eat leaves, spiders and flowers, but that's not what you should be putting in your feeder.

If you're wondering what you to put in them instead to lure in these little birds, there's plenty of advice online, but TikTok helped me out once again with some top tips. Creator @hiddenacrehome has shared a simple recipe with almost 80 thousand views and counting that seems like an easy solution.

All you need is a 4:1 ratio mix of water and sugar. So, with 4 cups of water, add 1 cup of sugar. Give it a good shake and use it to refill your hummingbird feeder whenever needed.

A sweet treat paired with a sweet spot should hopefully attract more hummingbirds to your yard, but you'll still need to have a little patience and be sure to keep the noise levels down. They scare easily.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

Rusty garden furniture isn’t a sign that it needs a one-way trip to the junkyard. In fact, it’s more often than not very easy to remove — if you know exactly what to use and how to apply it.

Better yet? You might just have some secret rust repellent hiding in your pantry. Rumor has it that dark molasses — or even robust molasses — can break down rust. Yes, this is the same ingredient that you’d put in your gingerbread come December.

This bittersweet syrup is a non-toxic way to revive metal garden furniture this summer. And if you already have a jar in your pantry, then it won’t cost a cent to try.

How do we know it works? Jon Saeed, co-founder and managing director at Lighting Legends, told us: “Things that contain acids are generally the best cleaning agents for this issue as acidity is what helps break down the rust, making it easier to scrub away.”

So, what exactly is the black treacle hack for rust?

We all know how easily rust forms on metal garden furniture, whether it’s from rain or moisture. And with that comes the difficulty of removing rust. “Rust on garden furniture can be a real nuisance and can instantly make chairs, tables and benches look old and unclean,” says Saeed.

Luckily, there are a few kitchen staples you can use to clean your rusty furniture. And apart from ketchup, dark molasses, more commonly known as black treacle, will also do the trick.

“Whether or not it’s easy to clean will depend on how long it’s been there for and how much of it there is,” says Saeed. “A light layer of rust can usually be removed with a wire brush or abrasive sponge, but anything that’s been left longer can be a lot more stubborn to remove.”

How to remove rust with black molasses

“Surprisingly, treacle works a treat, but it tends to work best for furniture that you are able to dismantle and soak,” explains Saeed.

When using black treacle or dark molasses to treat rust on cast iron or steel, it’s best to mix one part treacle with eight parts warm water. Give it a good stir and submerge the rusty parts of your furniture in this solution for a good few days — or even a week if you think necessary. After that, you should be able to scrub the rust away.

You might find that an abrasive sponge works well at this stage. Once the rust has gone, be sure to completely dry the piece of furniture before reassembling.

Who says this hack is just for furniture? You can also use it on pans, grill grates and more!

Citric acid will also work

"If you can’t dismantle your furniture, then creating a thick paste with citric acid is a better option,” adds Saeed.

He recommends adding 50-100g of citric acid to enough water to form a thick paste. This can then be applied to the rusty area and then covered with Saran Wrap. Leave it for four hours, then scrub it with a wire brush. Ensure that it’s totally dry, too.

Have you tried this rust hack on your metal furniture (or anything else)? Let us know in the comments below.

More from Tom's Guide

• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
• 7 tell-tale signs that your patio furniture needs replacing
• How to revive your garden furniture — this cheap kitchen staple will bring it back to life

You’ve overpacked your suitcase and miraculously managed to zip it. You’ve checked that your passport is in your document wallet over and over. And most importantly: you’re certain that you’ve got the right dates for your getaway.

But as you step out the front door, panic sets in — what about the backyard? After five months of feeding, weeding and watering your garden, you’ve neglected to plan how to nurture it while you’re away. Will it still be blooming when you return?

Here are four tips to ensure your garden will look just as lush as the day you left.

4 holiday garden mistakes to avoid this August

Beyond covering your patio furniture and packing up your beloved grill, there are a few extra jobs to tick off in your yard before heading on a vacation. Take it from me: I recently returned from a two-week vacation to discover a yard full of wilting flowers and overgrown weeds.

So, if you don’t have a trusted neighbor to step in, here’s how to hydrate your perennials the smart way this August, according to David Denyer, florist and garden expert at eflorist.

1. Don't leave your potted plants in direct sunlight

Even if you’re working with plants that thrive in the summer sun, consider moving them to a shady spot before you pack up the car. This way, they won’t dry or even possibly wilt while you’re out of state. “The extra heat and intense sunlight could dry them out fast,” says Denyer, so it’s best to be safe than sorry.

2. Don't forget to deadhead

Arguably one of the most important things you can do in your garden, especially if your vacation is longer than a few days, is to identify any flowering plants before you head off.

“Plants can grow at a rapid rate at times, and after some time away, we can return home to what seems like a jungle,” says Denyer.

If any blooms are faded or finished, go ahead and snip them off, always using a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears to avoid spreading disease.

This way, while you’re away, your plant can focus on the important things — like growing new seeds and buds.

3. Don't forget to give your garden a big drink

Giving your plants a generous watering the day before your trip will put them in a great position before you head off. So even if you can’t rely on a neighbor, you’ve got peace of mind that they’re hydrated.

Got any plants with saucers underneath their pots? Fill these with a little water for some bonus points! But be careful: “Soggy roots and overwatering can be a cause for concern, and potentially cause fungus gnats to appear,” explains Denyer.

4. Don't overlook self-watering globes

Self-watering globes are clever pieces of kit designed for a good reason — to drip-feed your plants water over a longer period of time. They come in different sizes depending on how long you’re away from home, but I always say the bigger the better, as the larger the globe, the more hydration your plant is guaranteed.

“Simply fill them up and pop them into the soil just before you leave, and they’ll do the watering for you while you’re on holiday,” says Denyer.

However, he says they are more helpful for indoor plants, as the size-to-soil ratio is more ideal. For outdoor use, he suggests making your own.

How to make your own self-watering globe

You can make your own self-watering device using a water bottle; Denyer recommends using a glass rather than a plastic bottle to avoid placing any microplastics in the soil.

“If you’re going to use this method to water your plants while you’re away, the best way to do it is with a clay spike or cone attached,” he explains.

“Simply screw or secure it onto the top of the bottle, flip it upside down, and stick it into the soil. By adding this, it means the clay will only let water out when the soil’s dry enough to actually need it, so your plant gets a drink only when it’s thirsty.”

You can also simply poke some small holes in the bottle cap instead, and the water will slowly drip out over time to allow for continuous hydration.

Gardening essentials we love

More from Tom's Guide

• I was an AI skeptic — until I started using it to identify plants
• 7 easy vegetables to plant in August that thrive as summer fades
• Stop wasting your money — Gardeners share the common yard expenses to avoid (and great hacks to save cash)

As the sunny weather brings out vibrant blooms and luscious leaves in my garden, I find myself fighting the urge to bring every single one of them indoors so I can enjoy them all day long.

Fortunately, I know that would be excessive, but that doesn't stop me from bringing some of them inside. Cutting fresh flowers from my garden and moving them into vases around my home is one of my favorite things to do in the summer. After all, why would I spend money on bouquets when I've got my own flower shop waiting in my garden?

But, I've learnt some hard lessons along the way, mainly when it comes to inviting bugs into my home riding the petals and stems of the flowers I want to enjoy. To avoid common mistakes, here's 5 top tips for bringing fresh flowers indoors.

1. Choose the right time of day

While you can cut fresh flowers from your garden at any time of day, there's definitely moments that are better than others. First thing in the morning or in the late evening are two of the best opportunities you have and there's a couple of reasons for that.

Firstly, you're doing it before it gets too hot or when the sun is cooling down. This way you're giving them a better chance of not wilting too quickly from the loss of water.

Secondly, insects aren't as active as these times of days so it's less likely that you'll be bringing them indoors.

2. Do as much of it outside as possible

When it comes to cutting fresh flowers, of course you'll be doing it outside at first, but you'll want to spend a bit more time out there then you might initially think.

This tip is a catch-all for the other tips I'm about to cover, too, meaning you should do pretty much all of the work outside. This will ensure you give any insects and pollen time to drop off in the best place – rather than inside your home.

3. Strip the lower leaves away

As you'd do with any shop-bought flowers, it's best to strip away the lower leaves from each stem. When you buy them, doing this avoids the leaves stagnating and rotting in the water.

When you're cutting them from your garden, this is also the case but with the added benefit of getting rid of any insect stragglers clinging on or any messy soil that could dirty up your home.

4. Give them a good shake

It's also a good idea to give your flowers a little shake, emphasis on the little. You don't want to destroy the flowers or risk shaking off the lovely petals, but you also want to give any insects the chance to jump ship.

It's best to do this with the flowers facing downwards as insects can easily hide inside the petals and leaves that are curled upwards.

5. Soak them in cold water

It's especially handy to have a bucket of cold water by your side when you're cutting your fresh flowers to soak them in. This will help give them a quick wash to remove any excess soil, insects, or anything else you don't want inside your home.

If you've had enough time outside, you can also put the bucket in your bathtub or even run some water into the bath to clean them for around 30 minutes before putting them in a vase. Then, you can enjoy your outdoor flowers without worrying about extra visitors in your home.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don't throw them out — 3 ways to use banana peels in the garden
• Gardeners urged to leave a bowl of beer in the yard this summer — here's why
• How to get rid of fruit flies fast

The summer weather has been unprecedented, and gardeners everywhere are disheartened by the state of their yards as they look out onto wilting leaves and scorched lawns.

Traditional favorites are taking a beating in the intense heat — my own hydrangeas are turning brown at the edges, and even my shade-loving ferns are struggling to survive.

While protecting your soil, watering wisely, and maximizing shade can help your yard survive the heat, we all need to learn to stop fighting the changing climate and adapt our habits.

I’m determined not to give up on my yard, but climate change and how my garden is responding mean I’m making big changes for next year — starting with a plant overhaul.

First approach — spot what’s thriving

My first instinct when the high temperatures and dry spell hit was to look for the survivors — not just in my own backyard, but across my neighborhood and beyond

As I came to terms with my own depleted garden, spotting the specimens that were still effortlessly thriving gave me hope. It was proof that I shouldn’t give up, and that plenty of resilient varieties can handle the heat.

What’s more, I saw plenty of plants that I already love; I just didn’t have them in my own backyard. Here are my personal top five favorites, which I've chosen for their heat tolerance — and they are all easy to grow.

My 5 favorite heat-tolerant plants I'll be growing next year

1. Agapanthus

Taking one of the top spots is agapanthus — it’s a real showstopper. I’ll never get bored of the delicate globe-shaped clusters of flowers and the thin strap-like leaves. This low-maintenance perennial is also known as the African Lily and it gives out far more than it receives, as it thrives in the heat and tolerates drought.

How to care for agapanthus:
Agapanthus thrives in full sun and needs 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. However, in a hot climate, keep it in partial shade. It will do best in fertile, moist and well-drained soil.

Plant with: Ornamental grasses, daylilies and lavender.

USDA growing zone: 8-11

2. Verbena bonariensis

Verbena bonariensis is native to South America and features airy clusters of purple flowers. It can reach 3 to 6 feet, so don’t put it at the front of your beds, as it’s best placed further back to mingle within a mixed border.

How to care for Verbena bonariensis
This beauty is best planted in full sun in well-drained soil. It will handle sand, loam or clay, if the drainage is good, and it’s highly drought resistant. However, be warned, it is a prolific self-seeder in warm, wetter climates.

Plant with: Coneflowers and salvia.

USDA growing zone: 7-11

3. Achillea millefolium

Achillea millefolium, more commonly known as yarrow, features feathery, fern-like leaves topped on a stem that features a flat-topped cluster of tiny flowers. It’s a tough, drought tolerant perennial that blooms in white, yellow, pink or red. I favor the yellow flower and love seeing it alongside a blue companion plant.

Top tip: What makes this plant exceptional in the heat is its tiny leaves — the smaller the leaves, the less moisture is lost.

How to care for Achillea millefolium
This plant thrives in direct sun and does well in poor soil, so skip fertilizer to prevent the long stems from bending. A well-draining soil is best to prevent root rot.

Plant with: Coneflower, bee balm and sedum.

USDA growing zone: 3-9

4. Sedums

Sedums, commonly known as stonecrop, have succulent leaves, which help them store moisture — and that’s why they are perfect for dry gardens. What’s more, apart from their fleshy foliage, they feature star-shaped flowers that often change color throughout the season. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ starts its life with pale green flowers, which gradually change to a dark pink.

How to care for Sedums
Sedums are easy to care for as long as they thrive in poor soil and dry conditions, just make sure the soil has good drainage.

Plant with: Coneflowers, yarrow and salvias.

USDA growing zone: 3-11

5. Eryngium

Eryngium is a striking perennial that’s commonly known as sea holly, and it’s amply named, as it evolved right by the coast. This hardy perennial has striking, silvery-blue thistle-like flower heads that will add structure to your yard.

How to care for Eryngium
It will perform best in full sun, and prefers sandy, or rocky soil that is well-drained —just like the coast. Avoid adding fertilizer and heavy watering.

Plant with: Alliums, ornamental grasses and coneflowers.

USDA growing zone: 3-9

How are you adapting to climate change in your garden?

I was curious to see whether other gardeners were already swapping out plants in response to climate change — and according to John Cho, founder at My Cozy Plant, the shift is already underway. He’s seen a surge of interest in heat-tolerant varieties, with gardeners turning to shiso, lemon verbena, okra and dragon fruit.

I'd love to hear what changes you are planning to make to your space. Apart from introducing more heat-tolerant plants, I'm considering replacing part of my lawn with gravel. And if you're a vegetable grower, are you planning on growing a few exotics you wouldn't have previously considered?

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 plants that love the sun and will survive a heatwave
• Is the heatwave turning your grass brown? An expert recommends watering your lawn the ‘Wimbledon way’
• Beat the heat wave — 5 tips for keeping your lawn green

When tomato leaves begin yellowing or dropping blossoms, it makes sense to immediately suspect a disease or a watering issue. But often, the problem isn't a lack of nutrients in the dirt, it is an invisible chemical barrier preventing the plant from absorbing them.

Tomatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, and if your pH drifts too far out of range, root systems lock up. You don't need to wait days for a digital meter or laboratory mail-in kit to figure out if your soil is off.

With two basic kitchen staples, you can run a quick, reliable test in under five minutes to diagnose what is happening beneath the surface.

How kitchen staples expose your soil's chemistry

Before altering your garden bed, you can use simple acid-base reactions to get a clear directional read on your soil's chemistry. Collect two clean containers and gather fresh soil samples from about three inches below the surface near your plant's root zone, removing any stones or mulch.

In the first container, pour half a cup of household white vinegar directly over the soil sample. If it fizzes or bubbles immediately, your soil is alkaline (pH above 7.0), reacting to the acid in the vinegar.

If nothing happens, take your second container, moisten the soil sample with distilled water until it becomes muddy, and sprinkle a tablespoon of baking soda on top. Vigorous bubbling here signals acidic soil (pH below 6.0).

If neither sample reacts, your soil sits comfortably in the neutral range.

Why extreme soil pH starves tomato roots

Tomatoes require a specific pH sweet spot (ideally between 6.0 and 6.8) to efficiently uptake nutrients from the soil. When your baking soda or vinegar test produces an aggressive reaction, it indicates a significant pH imbalance.

Even if your soil is rich in compost or fertilizer, high alkalinity or extreme acidity chemically binds essential elements like nitrogen, phosphorus, and iron. In alkaline soil, for instance, calcium and iron become insoluble, causing young leaves to yellow while leaf veins stay dark.

What looks like a dying, diseased tomato plant is often just a severe nutritional bottleneck caused entirely by the surrounding soil pH.

How to adjust your soil before applying fertilizer

Once your DIY test identifies which way your pH is leaning, you can take the best course of action rather than blindly adding fertilisers that might worsen the problem.

If the vinegar test fizzed, your soil is too alkaline. To pull the pH down toward the ideal range, you will need to work elemental sulphur or acidifying organic matter like pure peat moss into the topsoil. Ordinary leaf compost or straw won't be strong enough to break the alkalinity.

If the baking soda test reacted, your soil is overly acidic. You can safely correct this by mixing in garden lime, which raises the pH gradually without shocking the root zone, though small, careful top-dressings of wood ash can also work in a pinch.

While this kitchen hack provides a yes-or-no signal rather than an exact numerical reading, it gives you an immediate, actionable diagnosis so you can stabilise your root zone before long-term damage sets in.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardeners swear by this simple tomato plant trick — here's how to save split tomatoes fast
• When to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest
• How to double your tomato harvest — the 3-step pruning system for massive yields

Lavender is one of my favorite plants that rewards me with delicate flowers and an enticing scent. But apart from my own enjoyment, this perennial shrub is a haven for wildlife and loved by pollinators. It’s a win-win specimen to grow in any yard.

And now that we are moving into late summer, August is the perfect month to prune lavender. But there is one thing you need to know before you get out your pruning shears to ensure your lavender continues to flourish next year.

Adam Kirtland, a gardener who shares his insight on Instagram @viewfromthepottingbench, explains how you should prune lavender and the common pruning mistake you need to avoid.

How to prune your lavender for a healthy plant

“By now your lavender is probably leggy and has lost some of its color, but spending a bit of time now will give you an amazing plant next year,” explains Kirtland.

And he suggests following the ‘888 rule’, which refers to pruning your lavender on the 8th day of the 8th month, and by 8 inches. But don’t worry, although August 8 has passed, you’ve still got time to prune your lavender.

“You’ll know that your lavender is ready to prune when it’s brown and crispy, but if yours has still got color then you can absolutely wait,” he explains.

So, how do you prune lavender and what do you need to avoid?

Kirtlands explains that the aim is to cut above the brown and woody growth. He demonstrates by showing the brown part on a plant with a green section above, which is where you need to snip.

“If you cut too low, you’ll enter the woody base, and it won’t regrow. If you cut it too high, then it’ll stay leggy. This rule keeps it neat, bushy and blooming,” he says

What’s more, he reminds gardeners to use a sharp pair of pruning shears and to cut into the green growth, not the woody base. “You can either cut off individual blooms or do what I do and grab a bunch and snip all the way through. Work your way around the whole bush, and the aim is to have a nice round mound,” he explains.

By pruning your lavender at the right time, in the right place and at the right length, he says you’ll be encouraging your lavender to “live longer, bloom harder and look less like it’s given up on life.”

But that’s not all; once you’ve pruned your lavender, Kirtland suggests it makes perfect cutting material, or can be placed in a dark place and dried for later use in gifts and even baking. It really is a plant that keeps on giving.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody
• Now is the best time to harvest your lavender — here’s how to do it the right way
• How to extend the life of your lavender — experts share their tips

There’s nothing quite like picking fresh, homegrown vegetables straight from the vine and bringing them directly to your dining table. Plus, it’s the ultimate way to elevate those crisp, summer salads!

But whether you’re learning how to grow tomatoes from seeds or cultivating tomatoes in pots, you’ll inevitably face one frustrating hurdle — garden pests.

In fact, keeping your plants safe from hungry intruders such as squirrels, birds, or even deer is often the biggest obstacle to achieving that perfect, juicy harvest this season.

And while there are plenty of natural pest repellents or companion plants to help deter pests, there is one unlikely item found in your bathroom that can do just the trick.

So why are gardeners putting a bar of ‘special’ soap by their tomato plants?

Hang a bar of soap near tomato plants

It seems like a simple bar of soap can do so much more than just clean your skin or leave you smelling fresh.

Interestingly, its strong fragrance acts as a powerful deterrent for garden pests. However, it’s not just any standard store-bought brand that will work; you’ll need to use Irish Spring Moisture Blast Deodorant Bar Soap.

According to a research study conducted by the University of Nebraska in 1991, using “bars of fragrant soap will keep deer from crops at critical times.”

This makes it an ideal solution to hang by your tomato crops, acting as a barrier to ensure they’re not devoured or ruined by all types of yard intruders.

Perhaps the only caveat is that once the fragrance starts to wear off, they’ll soon be back. So, it’s best to only use this easy hack alongside other methods to ensure your garden remains a pest-free zone.

How to use soap by tomato plants (and what not to do)

There are a couple of ways you can use soap near your tomato plants. The first is to drill a small hole through the soap, thread some string, and hang it from stakes or a plant trellis. For best results, leave the packaging on before hanging, and experts suggest that a single bar is a sufficient scent barrier for any tomato plants within a 3-foot area.

Another option is to place the bar inside a small, fine-mesh pouch before hanging it near your crops instead. Once the soap fragrance wears off, you can simply replace it with a fresh bar.

Bear in mind that if soap is used incorrectly, it may harm your plants. Since this may contain sodium hydroxide, or contemporary lye, it can scorch foliage and harm plant tissues. So be sure that no soap residue drips onto your tomato plants or soil.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

You’d think after several decades of gardening, few plants could catch me completely by surprise. Yet nature always finds a way to remind me how much there is left to discover.

During a visit to Arundel Castle and Gardens in the U.K. this summer, I was completely captivated — first by the exquisite water garden, and then by a breathtaking bloom that left me spellbound, all quietly affirming why I do what I do.

Despite searching high and low for a plant label to identify the mysterious bloom, it remained unnamed. In this situation, my trusted go-to move is to snap a quick photo on my phone and post it on social, hoping one of my gardening followers can help.

But, as I am often surrounded by AI discussions at Tom’s Guide, I thought it was time to swap my social media shout-outs for a tech-driven answer.

Follow me on my journey to see whether artificial intelligence can become a reliable gardening companion, or whether I need to fall back on a seasoned gardener’s eye. And true to my aptitude at saving money, I used free apps during my experiment.

What happened when I used AI to identify a plant?

Although I work within digital publishing, I’m not as tech-savvy as some of my Tom’s Guide colleagues, who can navigate digital tools with their eyes shut. But, thankfully, if you can upload a photo to social media, you’re already fully qualified to use AI to identify plants.

Before putting AI to work, you need a crisp, clear shot. Unlike a fellow gardener, a cluttered background will trip up an algorithm. It really won’t be happy if you ask it to identify a plant that’s included in a mixed border.

My tip is to frame a single flower in the center. Cutting out the clutter will give AI exactly what it needs for an accurate identification.

Using Google Gemini

Having opened Google Gemini on my phone, I entered the prompt ‘identify this plant’. I thought it would instruct me to upload an image, but before doing so, it gave me instructions to either provide a photo or describe the plant, including specifics such as leaves and flowers, growth habitat and environment.

I then attached the image of the plant that I’d already taken. However, at this point you could take the photo; it doesn’t already have to be an image you already have stored on your phone.

The results
I didn’t even have time to blink before the results appeared. Apparently my mystery plant is a Cleome hassleriana, commonly known as the spider flower.

Gemini responded with:

"This plant is Cleome (botanical name Cleome hassleriana or Tarenaya hassleriana), commonly known as the Spider Flower or Spider Plant."

I wasn’t expecting any more than the name, and yes, Google Gemini was correct. But I was also given details on the plant’s key characteristics, including its flowers, foliage, growth habit, care and growing tips. Here's a snapshot of some of the details:

"Flowers: Bright pink, purple, or white terminal clusters featuring long, thread-like stamens that extend far beyond the petals, giving them a spider-like appearance."

I'll be sharing more on the beautiful spider flower in another article, as apparently it’s super easy to grow — as advised by my garden designer friend Steven Digby, who often helps me out with my Instagram shout-outs. You won’t get this personalized advice on AI, but it will give you a good start.

Using ChatGPT

Using ChatGPT
I entered the same instructions into ChatGPT to compare results. This time, unlike Gemini, ChatGPT gave me instructions on what to capture in the image, such as taking a photo of the whole plant and getting close-ups of the leaves, any flowers, fruits, or seed pods.

It also suggested capturing the stem or bark and adding any details about location, height and scent. However, from my understanding, it was expecting to identify the plant by a photo, rather than a description alone.

ChatGPT responded with:

"This looks like a spider flower, most likely Cleome hassleriana. The features that stand out are:

• Bright pink flower clusters.
• Very long, thread-like stamens that give the flowers a "spidery" appearance.
• Tall, upright stems.
• Palmately compound leaves with several narrow leaflets."

ChatGPT was correct in its identification, and it did provide some additional details on the plant, but from a user perspective, I found Google Gemini’s information simpler to read. Splitting it into clear headings made it easier to digest.

That said, ChatGPT did pick up that there were other plants within the image, noticing rose leaves, and stated that although it identified rose bushes close by, it was confident in identifying the spider flower as the main plant.

Other apps to try
Although I decided to use Google Gemini, Mike Prospero, U.S. editor-in-chief at Tom’s Guide, previously used Google, Google Chrome and the Gemini app, and he takes you through how to use all three in his article on identifying poison ivy using AI.

AI versus human: The verdict

I was impressed with both Gemini and ChatGPT — each identified the mystery plant instantly from just a single photo, without any further hints.

I’m no longer skeptical about using AI to identify plants, and if you’re impatient and want to know the answer quickly, this tech delivers.

An algorithm won’t give the subtle, seasoned wisdom of an experienced gardener, such as my friend Digby’s advice on how this stunning annual is really easy to grow from seed. (Yes, I doubled my chances and uploaded the photo on social.) But if you want quick answers, it provides accurate plant identification.

My deep dive into AI came down to my new obsession with the spider flower, and now I know what it is and that it’s easy to grow; I’ll be adding it to my garden next year.

How else can AI help gardeners?

This is just the beginning of my gardening journey using AI. I'm already planning other ways to test how AI can help me in the garden, from assisting with planting plans to advising on heat-tolerant plants, and I’ll be sharing what I discover over the coming months. Let me know your thoughts and experiences of using AI in the garden in the comments below.

More from Tom's Guide

• Stop fighting the climate: Expert-approved tips on how to plant for hotter summers
• 7 easy vegetables to plant in August that thrive as summer fades
• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody

Wild violets are the wolf in sheep's clothing of lawn weeds. In spring, their small purple flowers look charming enough that many homeowners leave them alone. By midsummer, you realize they've taken over.

The issue with wild violets is they're designed to trick you into failure. Their leaves have a waxy coating that repels standard herbicides. Underground, they've developed a network of tubers that survive pulling, mowing, and casual attempts at removal. By the time you realize it's a problem, they're already winning. Here's how to take your lawn back.

Why wild violets are so hard to kill

Those purple flowers are lovely, which is exactly why people ignore wild violets until it's too late. The real threat is underground. Wild violets develop rhizomes: tough, fleshy underground stems that store energy and keep the plant alive even when you think you've eliminated it.

Above ground, the leaves have a protective waxy layer that causes liquid herbicides to slide right off without penetrating.

This combination makes them nearly impossible to kill with casual effort. They also spread aggressively. Wild violets produce seed pods both above and below ground, meaning they're distributing seeds whether you see it happening or not.

If you've got wild violets in your yard, assume they're already further along than they appear.

More from Tom's Guide

• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• How to stop ground ivy taking over your lawn

Summer is here and the ideal time to get outdoors and prioritize our yard and lawn maintenance. To make light work of our tasks, it’s easy to get lured into buying expensive gardening gadgets and professional-grade supplies in hopes of making yard work a breeze (I’ve been guilty of that).

However, seasoned pros warn that many of these items are actually a waste of money and offer little real benefit.

So if you’re looking to slash your gardening budget, I asked the experts to reveal the most common yard expenses to avoid — and what you can do to save your cash.

1. Buying fertilizer (without doing a soil test first)

While fertilizer is an essential buy for nurturing plants or achieving a vibrant lawn, homeowners frequently dump cash into bags of fertilizer without first checking their soil's condition. This means that you could be wasting money on fertilizer that won’t benefit your garden.

“One of the biggest things I see that homeowners waste money on is fertilizing a lawn without doing a soil test first,” states Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal.

“Many people apply products that their lawn doesn't actually need, and that wastes money and harms the turf. A simple soil test doesn't cost very much and will tell you exactly which nutrients your lawn is missing and let you know which one to buy.”

You can purchase a soil meter to check the soil pH balance and condition before buying, or you can simply use homemade fertilizer such as mulch.

“One of my favorite money-saving hacks is to mulch your lawn clippings instead of bagging them. The lawn clippings return nutrients to the soil, reduce fertilizer needs, and will help keep the lawn healthier throughout the season.”

For more top tips, here’s how to reuse your lawn clippings around your yard.

2. Cheap plastic gardening tools

Another common money-waster is investing in plastic gardening tools that we think will help us get the job done quickly. From seed-starting trays to cheap soil meters, these can often be a waste of money.

While it may seem like a good idea at the time — or when it was on sale — these tend not to last long or easily get damaged.

“Plastic tools degrade faster than metal ones. As a result, they need to be replaced more often, costing you more money in the long run,” agrees Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert at Online Turf.

“Cheap plastic seed starting trays can be very flimsy, breaking after as little as one or two seasons, but they are also bad for the environment," Zaber says. "Instead, you can use DIY methods, such as toilet rolls or eggshells, to create your own pots, buy better quality, reusable trays, or invest in biodegradable alternatives.”

It’s always worth spending money on tools that you’ll actually use often, and buy high-quality, durable tools that will go the distance.

I’ve often made the mistake of buying cheap gardening tools that would either do a poor job, break easily, or just end up collecting dust at the back of my kit.

What’s more, before you press ‘buy’ on that cheap online deal, always check out the specs or reviews. It may well be too good to be true.

“Homeowners should only buy the tools they will absolutely use, not ones that they think they might need,” adds Charlie Gilbert, Managing Director of Ransom Spares.

“Research the tools that you need to maintain your current garden, and avoid big toolset purchases. Take notice of how often you use the tools you start out with and what they cost you.

Some homeowners might realize that yard upkeep is too taxing or time-consuming and reach out to professional services, who will have their own tools.”

3. Low-quality garden furniture

I’m a sucker for Pinterest, and love looking for inspiration to spruce up my garden with different furniture and decor styles.

And while it’s possible to upgrade your backyard on a budget, avoid buying low-quality garden furniture, because it’s on trend right now.

“Outdoor furniture is expensive, and quality matters most when purchasing it,” states Gilbert. “Low-quality furniture will fade, rust, or crack more quickly than most people think. Those who live in very sunny, humid, or rainy climates will have to replace their furniture more often if they do not buy a weather-durable set.”

Another great money-saving tip is to consider buying used garden items, tools or furniture — but obviously check they are in good condition first.

“Garden furniture sets are not often something people concern themselves with the most when moving to a new house,” agrees Gilbert.

“Furniture can be cumbersome and difficult to move if you have a small vehicle, so check your local online listings and yard sales. Tools can also be purchased secondhand; just check their condition before buying.

“Word of mouth goes a long way as well if you live in a smaller neighborhood. You never know who is trying to get rid of what, so talk to your neighbors and let them know what you are looking for.”

So the next time you visit a thrift store or local market, it might be worth looking out for pre-loved garden furniture that you could rehome — and save a buck.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Homeowners warned as rats may be chewing through yard wires this summer — expert tips to keep them out
• 7 surprising household items to help your plants grow 

It’s been a heartbreaking season for gardeners. Prolonged heatwaves and persistent dry spells have decimated many of our beds, leaving traditional garden favorites struggling to survive.

Seeing a prized specimen wilt morning after morning is a sobering sight — and a shared despair among fellow growers this year.

This summer has served as a wake-up call to the reality of climate change in our own backyards. As we take stock of what survived and plan for next season, the question isn’t just what to plant, but how to adapt.

How is climate change affecting our gardens?

Climate change will affect locations differently over the coming years, according to Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer and writer at First Tunnels. “In many areas, summers will be hotter and drier than they were before and winters will be milder and wetter," she said. "Weather extremes, from extreme drought to extreme rainfall and flooding, will become ever more common.”

The evidence is already apparent, but what do these changes mean? Sharon Yiesla, Plant Knowledge Specialist at The Morton Arboretum, says that just about everything in our gardens will be affected, from when plants flower, how long they stay active in fall, to watering needs and the timing of gardening activities.

Moving forward, the goal isn’t just maintaining a traditional garden, but building a resilient ecosystem that can weather the changes ahead.

The realization that gardeners need to make changes

One of the first ways to adapt to climate change is to acknowledge that the plants that previously thrived in your yard may not have the same resilience to changing patterns in temperature and rainfall.

I can already see a clear pattern in what plants are drought- and heat-resistant in my backyard and local region. My beautiful hydrangeas have been struggling through the endless heatwaves, and my tomatoes are failing to turn red.

John Cho, founder at Mr Cozy Plant, also acknowledges that these are two much-loved staples that can no longer handle our current summer temperatures. He says that hydrangea leaves start to turn brown and crisp at the edges once the temperature hits 84°F (28°C).

As for tomatoes, he adds, “Tomato pollen dies, and flowers drop off at 90°F (32°C). This means the plants stop growing new fruit entirely during heat spikes.”

It can be disappointing when your favorites show signs of stress, and when the realization hits that you need to open your horizons to new plants that can withstand temperatures above and beyond the mid-80s.

How to adapt to the changing climate

“Before we begin to think about specific swaps for plants, it is important to consider the practical design and the core cycles and frameworks that underpin all our gardening efforts,” explains Waddington.

If you’re planning to swap your heat-sensitive plants for drought-tolerant plants, you still need to consider the soil and drainage — if the earth is compacted and the soil is waterlogged in winter, the plant is less likely to survive.

And she adds, a lot of it comes down to managing water wisely and taking care of the soil. “Boosting biodiversity in the garden, both plants and wildlife, also helps us minimize risk and build more stable and secure systems that can stand the test of time.”

It's also more important than ever to be aware of what is going on in your garden. "We can no longer garden by the calendar," Yiesla says. "We must look at weather conditions and the condition of the plants."

Here we delve into seven things to consider when planning your planting scheme.

1. Think soil first

Kim Stoddart, author of The Climate Change Resilient Vegetable Garden, and owner at Green Rocket Courses, agrees with Waddington and says, “Think soil health, first and foremost.”

She suggests using the no-till method and mulching regularly to help lock water in using freely available materials from your garden. “Grass clippings, leaves, wood chips, chop and drop leaves, cardboard, comfrey or spent compost from pots all help protect soil and plants,” she says.

Try to avoid bare soil, which will dry out more quickly and be much more vulnerable. Stoddart says ground cover plants and mulches will both help.

What is the no-till method?
This technique is based on avoiding turning the soil, while using organic matter to cover the ground and suppress weeds, and leaving this material to break down naturally.

2. Water wisely

Watering deeply and less often will encourage the roots of plants to reach deep into the soil rather than seeking water on the surface. And Stoddart says to avoid overwatering and feeding too much as the plants start out. “It creates plants which are needier for attention from gardeners with shallower root systems and less resilience as a result.”

3. Think right plant, right place

I’m a real advocate of the right plant, right place mentality, and Stoddart is too. She also suggests taking stock of those plants, especially annuals, which are repeatedly struggling and then consider whether you should keep growing them.

I’d add to this advice and suggest you also take note of what continues to perform well in your garden and your surrounding location. While my hydrangeas are struggling, my sedums are wondering what all the fuss is about!

4. Put your money on perennials

Stoddart suggests planting more perennials, as they can develop deep root structures that enable them to find food and water from further afield, giving them greater resilience against extreme weather overall.

Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf, says, “Any plants that can handle a wet winter and dry summer are the ones to go for.”

My salvia 'Hot Lips' is currently looking triumphant and is definitely one plant I'll be increasing next year. I'll also be adding coneflowers and yarrow to my collection.

5. Make the most of shade

Although some plants are sun lovers, creating some shade will protect them and other sun-shy plants from direct heat. “Move plant pots if you can into semi-shade as needed, and group pots together,” says Stoddart.

This plant watering hack can also be used when you go on vacation to reduce the amount of water your plants need while you are away.

6. Celebrate natural pest predators

To protect your plants from predators, which will be more at risk during extreme weather, Stoddart suggests encouraging an abundance of natural pest controllers. “You want lots of ladybugs, wasps and other predators to help in the garden,” she says.

She also recommends mixing up planting schemes and placing ornamentals with edibles to create a greater balance.

7. Don't forget your lawn

My lawn was the first area to suffer in the heat, and with water restrictions in my area, it now resembles straw. Although my lawn has gone into dormancy, there is still some semblance of life — albeit the weeds!

Cho says that lawns turn brown and stop growing when temperatures reach 84°F (29°C). Although you can’t revive it, Handley says you can aerate the soil to improve airflow and reduce compaction, which aids water absorption. All you need is a garden fork or a lawn aerator to spike deep holes into the soil.

I'd love to know what tactics you are following to keep on top of your garden in the extreme heat. Please let me know in the comments below.

I'm also going to be experimenting with AI to see how it can help me plant more wisely with the changing climate, similar to how I used AI to help me identify a mystery plant.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 plants that love the sun and will survive a heatwave
• Is the heatwave turning your grass brown? An expert recommends watering your lawn the ‘Wimbledon way’
• Beat the heat wave — 5 tips for keeping your lawn green

It’s often unnerving when you spot a rat scurrying across your property — especially during these summer months, when you want to enjoy the outdoors. Not only are these pests on the hunt for food and shelter, but they may also be causing significant damage to your garden appliances and power cables.

According to an expert, rat activity peaks during warmer months, as rats gnaw to keep their teeth worn down. Since their teeth never stop growing, rats need to constantly chew on hard materials to prevent them from overgrowing — making our outdoor power cables an easy target.

“Rats seem to like chewing on electrical wires, which can be a real nuisance,” states Adam Wilkins, Managing Director of LightingLegends.

“If they gnaw hard enough, they can actually cause some real damage to garden appliances, and you’ll have to replace the wiring or, in some cases, the whole appliance.”

The good news is that you can keep these pests from invading your outdoor space by implementing these expert-approved top tips.

Here are three simple things you can do in your yard to keep rats out and save your yard's electrical appliances from damage.

1. Cover or repair entry points

The first thing is to inspect your yard for holes and gaps in fences, uncovered drain covers, or any other potential entry points that rats can use to enter your property.

"Repair holes in sheds and fences to prevent rats from accessing the garden,” advises Wilkins.

“Since rats often travel through drains, consider repairing any broken drain covers. You can also cover rat burrows with wire mesh to prevent it from reopening.”

Another top tip is to get rid of any yard clutter — including piles of lumber, garden waste, or even old tires. Such things may serve as a nesting site for rodents to hide and seek shelter. So always keep it tidy and well maintained.

Ultimately, the key is to ensure your outdoor environment is highly uninviting, making it difficult for rodents to easily enter your outdoor space.

Also, is your neighbor's cluttered yard attracting rodents to your home? I asked the experts what to do.

2. Remove any food sources

Secondly, remove any potential food sources that will entice rats to keep coming back (and feasting in your yard). Things like fallen fruit, standing water, or even dropped bird food can all attract rodents.

“Rats are usually on the lookout for suitable shelter with food so remove any fallen fruit, nuts or vegetables that they may find enticing,” adds Wilson.

Be sure to pick up any fruit that has dropped from your trees, tidy up scattered bird seed from the patio, and regularly drain any stagnant water or pet dishes to avoid attracting unwanted visitors.

3. Secure your compost bins

Composting is a great way to repurpose kitchen waste and put it back into your yard. However, our compost bins are also a magnet for rats since it provides everything that they need — food and shelter.

"If you have a compost bin be sure to turn the compost regularly and consider installing mesh underneath if it sits on soil,” advises Wilsons. “These bins are hotspots for rats because it provides them with food, warmth and shelter.”

One good solution is to invest in a tumbler compost bin, which is designed to make it easier to turn over. Typically, these feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to reach all parts.

Things to look out for

Of course, keep an eye out for your electrical equipment. And if you do spot a cable that has been chewed or damaged, be sure to turn off the power and always call in an electrician to repair it.

"Where possible, keep cables off the ground, check them regularly for signs of gnawing, move any electrical appliances indoors overnight and replace any damaged wiring rather than attempting to cover it up," adds Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket

"If you suspect a cable has been chewed, switch off the power and contact a qualified electrician to inspect it, rather than trying to fix it yourself."

You'll want to quickly eliminate the risk of structural damage or worse, electrical fires caused by chewed wires.

What's more, you'll want to enjoy your backyard in peace this summer.

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• Stop killing your grass: 5 safe de-icing methods you need to know

Whether you’re growing your own tomatoes from seeds or in pots, nothing beats the taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes.

This is especially true when you can just pick straight from the vine and throw them into your tasty pasta dishes or summer salads.

But when you’re boiling your pasta, don’t be so quick to throw out your leftover water just yet.

I’ve just stumbled upon a surprising benefit from this common kitchen ‘leftover’ that might just help your tomato plants thrive. It’s a great way to provide a natural boost to your crop without the need for expensive fertilizers or the latest viral tomato-growing tips.

However, you’ll need to know the pros and cons first before putting it to good use in your yard. Here’s how pasta water can benefit your tomatoes (and the one drawback).

Why pasta water is good for tomato plants

Essentially, when you boil pasta, the process releases excess starch into the water. This creates a nutrient-rich liquid that can act as an effective fertilizer for your tomato plants and encourage soil microbes.

Plus, certain pasta varieties release essential minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron — which are all great for giving our plants a healthy boost and optimum growth.

However, this will only be effective with unsalted pasta water — or else the salt can dry out the plant or even kill it. What’s more, the salty water can lead to excess sodium in the soil, which will also affect growth.

How to water your tomato plants with pasta water

Simply drain your pasta water into a bowl, and leave it to cool. Once cooled, you can water the soil directly from the bowl or use a watering can or spray bottle to make the process a little easier.

Now you have your starch-rich, plant tonic — which is literally free.

One thing to remember

It is worth noting that there is one drawback. This starchy liquid may potentially attract unwanted pests or harmful bacteria to your garden.

To avoid the risk of mold in your soil or drawing insects, it’s recommended to use pasta water on plants sparingly.

Of course, it’s always best to use the right fertilizer for your tomato varieties, but there’s no harm in using homemade alternatives.

Plus, this is a cost-effective way to reuse your pasta water (until you get fed up of eating pasta dinners).

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
• Plus, 11 things to do when overwintering tomatoes

With the high heat showing no signs of abating, I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to stop mosquitoes ruining my summer.

Although there are plenty of techniques to deter mosquitoes in your garden, a lighting expert has revealed how a simple change can make a big difference, and I’m eager to find out more.

Humid evenings are the perfect environment for mosquitoes to thrive, and inadvertently, when you are enjoying outdoor gatherings around your patio and other seating areas, you’re likely to make the problem worse by turning on outdoor lighting.

Get the right tone

But since mosquitoes are attracted to lights, Jon Saeed, managing director at Lighting Legends, says you are making the problem worse. He says, “While you’re sitting out in the garden into the late evening, you may notice there are more mosquitos, especially if you have cool-toned garden lights.

“A lot of people aren’t aware that these lights tend to attract mosquitoes and other pesky bugs, which can turn into a real nuisance when trying to enjoy your garden.”

However, a simple switch to your outside lights can help dissipate the problem. And it’s all to do with the color.

“When choosing your outdoor lights, it’s definitely worth opting for yellow or warm-toned lights with a color temperature between 2,200K and 2,700K, as these are much less likely to invite insects into your garden,” he suggests.

These are significantly less attractive to mosquitoes and biting bugs compared to cooler lights above 5,000K. By switching to these 'bug-friendly' lights, you can continue to enjoy your outdoor spaces with fewer interruptions from insects.

As mosquitoes and other insects are less attracted to warm light, you’ll be able to enjoy your outside space with fewer annoying distractions.

8 ways to deter mosquitoes from your yard

Apart from changing the color temperature of your lights Saeed shares eight extra methods to prevent mosquitoes from ruining your summer.

1. Remove standing water
“Bugs like mosquitoes breed in stagnant water, so eliminating standing water sources can go a long way in helping to reduce their population,” says Saeed.

Regularly check and remove standing water in flower pots, birdbaths, gutters, and water trays.

2. Mosquito-repellent plants
Certain plants naturally repel mosquitoes due to the oils and scents they release. For this reason Saeed suggests planting lavender, citronella grass, lemon balm, marigolds and basil, which will all help.

3. Encourage natural predators
Just like plants, birds, bats, and certain insects like dragonflies are natural predators of mosquitoes. Saeed recommends encouraging these natural predators by providing nesting boxes, bird feeders, and water sources.

4. Install bug-repelling lighting
Swap out garden lights for yellow “bug lights”. You could also try solar-powered insect zappers, such as Anysonic’s Solar Bug Zapper, $29 at Best Buy.

5. Install mosquito traps
Traps lure mosquitoes by mimicking human scents and warmth. Saeed suggests trying an electric mosquito trap, with some emitting carbon dioxide to attract mosquitoes.

6. Maintain your garden
“Dense, overgrown gardens can become a haven for mosquitoes, so keeping your garden neat and tidy should help prevent them,” says Saeed.

Trim bushes, mow your lawn regularly, and keep your garden free of debris and clutter.

7. Use essential oils
Essential oils like lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus can deter mosquitoes when used in diffusers or mixed with water and sprayed around your garden. He suggests adding essential oils to a spray bottle with water and spraying liberally around areas where mosquitoes tend to gather in your garden.

8. Set up fans
I never knew that mosquitoes are weak fliers, but Saeed says that because of this vulnerability, fans can help keep them away by creating a soft breeze. He advises setting fans around seating areas, particularly during still, warm evenings.

More from Tom's Guide

• I asked pest experts why mosquitoes always bite me — their answer surprised me
• Banish mosquitoes from your home with one natural ingredient — and it also smells great
• A simple garden spray repels mosquitoes and stops them from breeding near your home — here's how to make it

If you think August marks the end of the vegetable growing season, think again. In fact, this month is one of the best times of year to fill empty beds and containers with fast-growing crops that thrive as summer begins to fade.

After the intense heat and sunlight of July, August marks the beginning of the slow descent into fall and the return of gentler growing conditions.

Many vegetables actually prefer the milder conditions that late summer brings. While the soil is still warm enough for seeds to germinate quickly, cooler nights and shorter days help leafy greens stay tender, root vegetables develop sweeter flavors, and many crops grow with fewer problems than they do in the height of summer.

There’s another reason not to pack away your gardening gloves just yet. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the average growing season across the contiguous U.S. has increased by more than two weeks since the beginning of the 20th century, with the biggest changes occurring over the last 30 years. That gives many gardeners a larger window to sow cool-season vegetables — although it also means late-summer heat can linger for longer.

Whether you’re replacing crops you’ve already harvested or simply want to make the most of every inch of growing space, here are seven vegetables well worth planting now.

1. Spinach

Spinach is one of the easiest wins for an August vegetable garden. Unlike spring sowings, which can bolt if temperatures rise too quickly, late-summer spinach enjoys cooler conditions and rewards you with plenty of tender leaves for salads, smoothies and cooking. Better still, baby leaves can be ready to pick in as little as a month, making it one of the quickest crops you can grow before fall arrives.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep in rich, moist soil in full sun or light afternoon shade if your days are still very hot. Water regularly until seedlings appear and thin plants to around 4 to 6 inches apart to give them room to grow.

2. Radishes

If patience isn’t your strong suit, radishes deserve a place in your garden. Some varieties are ready to harvest in under four weeks, making them ideal for filling gaps left behind by harvested tomatoes, beans or potatoes. They also tend to be crisper and milder when planted in August and grown as temperatures begin to cool, rather than during the hottest part of summer.

How to plant
Direct sow seeds around ½ inch deep and 1 inch apart in loose, well-drained soil. Thin seedlings once they’ve emerged and keep the soil evenly moist to encourage fast, even growth.

3. Lettuce

There’s a reason experienced gardeners often wait until late summer to sow another crop of lettuce. Cooler weather helps prevent plants from bolting too quickly, while the leaves develop a sweeter, less bitter flavor. Loose-leaf varieties are especially rewarding because you can harvest a few leaves at a time and they’ll continue producing for weeks.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ¼ inch deep in fertile soil and keep them consistently moist while they germinate. If you’re experiencing a late-season heatwave, provide a little afternoon shade until seedlings are established.

4. Carrots

Freshly harvested carrots are hard to beat, and August is an excellent time to sow them for a fall crop. As temperatures drop, the roots naturally become sweeter, making them even more delicious than many spring-grown carrots. Choose quick-maturing varieties if your first frost usually arrives early.

How to plant
Scatter seeds thinly over finely prepared soil and cover with around ¼ inch of compost or soil. Keep the seedbed damp throughout germination, as carrots can take up to three weeks to emerge.

5. Kale

Kale practically comes into its own in cooler weather. It's one of the most cold-tolerant vegetables you can grow, and many gardeners swear that the leaves taste even better after the first light frost. Once established, plants can keep producing for months, giving you repeated harvests from a single sowing.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep or transplant young plants into fertile soil, spacing them 12 to 18 inches apart. Water deeply during dry spells and harvest the lower leaves first to encourage continuous growth.

6. Beets

Beets are one of those vegetables that earn their space in almost any garden. Not only do you get sweet, earthy roots, but the young leaves can also be harvested for salads or cooked like spinach. Late-summer sowings often produce excellent-quality roots thanks to the cooler weather during their final weeks of growth.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep and thin seedlings to around 3 or 4 inches apart once they've sprouted. Water consistently throughout the season to help roots develop evenly.

7. Turnips

Turnips don't always get the attention they deserve, but they're one of the fastest and easiest vegetables to grow for a fall harvest. Both the roots and leafy tops are edible, making them a great choice if you're trying to get the most from a small vegetable patch. As with many root crops, cooler temperatures improve both texture and flavor.

How to plant
Direct sow seeds ½ inch deep in loose soil and thin seedlings to around 4 inches apart. Keep plants well watered to encourage smooth, tender roots.

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• We asked over 3,000 people what their biggest lawn care challenges were — and one answer came out on top
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A sudden heatwave can turn even the healthiest lavender bush completely odorless overnight. When temperatures soar, the plant isn't dying. It is actively venting off its volatile oils to protect its foliage from intense thermal stress.

The natural instinct is to rush out and dump water on the soil at midday, but that only worsens root stress and delays scent production. Rebuilding those lost aromatic compounds requires working with the plant's natural biology rather than fighting it.

With a simple shift in your watering schedule and a deep hydration routine, you can help the plant cool down and start producing fresh scent again in just a few days.

Why high heat drains your plant's oil reserves

Before jumping into a fix, it helps to understand what is happening inside the plant. Lavender stores its fragrance within microscopic, pressurized sacs called glandular trichomes on the surface of its foliage. When temperatures surge, those volatile compounds, linalool specifically, begin to evaporate rapidly under direct sun exposure.

Rather than running an intentional cooling mechanism, the plant simply loses its aromatic oils to high heat faster than it can replace them, leaving it odorless by late afternoon.

Watering during peak afternoon heat creates a stagnant, warm environment around the root zone. This excess moisture suffocates the roots and increases the risk of rot, leaving the plant too stressed to recover and regenerate its oils overnight.

Shift to a deep pre-dawn soak

If your lavender is baking in the sun and has lost its scent, your first instinct is to grab the hose and spray it down. Don't. Midday overhead watering creates a hot, humid environment that suffocates the roots.

Instead, the trick lies in a precise 48-hour hydration window.

First, wait until the sun goes down and the soil cools. Deliver a slow, targeted drink directly to the base of the plant using an open hose on a gentle trickle. This lowers the soil temperature gradually and allows the dry roots to drink without being shocked by midday heat.

The next morning at daybreak, give the base one more deep, deliberate soak. By saturating the lower soil layers before the sun hits the foliage, you create a moisture reserve the roots can safely draw from all day.

By avoiding the midday trap, your lavender's root system stays healthy and stress-free. With its hydration fully restored, the plant stops fighting for survival and restarts oil synthesis, bringing that rich, classic fragrance back to the leaves within 48 hours.

Wait for the fragrance to return

Once your deep-watering routine is in place, give the plant 48 hours to rebuild its resin glands. Avoid the temptation to prune off dead-looking stems during a hot stretch, as fresh cuts force the plant to divert critical energy toward healing.

By day two of consistent early-morning hydration, monitor the foliage during the cooler evening hours. Gently brush your fingers against the stems — not crushing them, but creating light friction. You will find that as root stress subsides, those microscopic oil sacs refill, delivering that signature, intense lavender fragrance right back to your backyard.

More from Tom's Guide

• Forget high-maintenance houseplants: A DIY terrarium is a gorgeous centerpiece that thrives on neglect
• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody
• My tomato plants were dropping flowers — then I tried this 2-second pollination hack

It’s been an extraordinary summer. I’ve never known a season when the temperature has been so high without any rainfall.

My area is officially in drought, and unsurprisingly my lawn and yard are looking parched. It’s easy to see which plants and flowers are heat and drought-tolerant, and I’m making a mental note of what to concentrate on growing next year.

Everything is behaving differently; even my tomato plants are responding to the high temperatures. Where they would usually be turning red, they are stuck in between color changes.

I’ve been watering my tomato plants consistently, making sure they’re hydrated without overwatering. However, there’s one element that is outside of my control.

Tomatoes react differently to extreme temperatures

According to Holly from the Garden Tendencies Instagram channel, high temperatures impact the color change in tomatoes.

“Once it stays above 85 degrees [29.4°C], tomato plants stop making the pigment that turns fruit red. So your tomatoes sit there, full-sized and stuck between green and orange, never finishing,” she says.

Without knowing that the temperature halts the process, you may hold off harvesting your homegrown crop, but she advises against keeping them on the vine.

Instead, Holly suggests, “Pick at first blush, the moment you see any color, and let them finish on the counter.”

But don’t worry, you won’t notice the difference in the taste.

“The flavor difference versus vine-ripened is less than 1%. You’re not sacrificing taste, just outsmarting the heat,” she adds.

How high heat stops tomatoes turning red

Tomatoes need temperatures between 70°F and 75°F to build color properly. When the temperature reaches between 85°F and 90°F, the high heat stops the fruit from making the red and yellow pigments (lycopene and carotene), which it needs to change color.

The intense heat causes the ripening process to slow or stop completely if the high temperatures persist. Bonnie Plants explains, “Fruit left on plants may have some color on the outside, but may still be green inside. So, if a period of intense heat is in the forecast, pick any fruit already showing hints of ripe color and allow it to finish ripening indoors.”

My tomatoes are still looking green, without the first sign of a blush, but I’m going to wait a little while longer to see if they start to turn. Let me know in the comments whether you’ve noticed a difference with the lack of color change in your tomatoes this year, and whether you’ve already started to pick them off the vine.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to get rid of tomato blossom end rot for a healthy harvest
• 7 mistakes to avoid when growing your own tomatoes
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest

I’ve always had a soft spot for cottage-style gardens. Their romantic charm, informal structure, and lush, overlapping plants get me every time — a look I’m constantly trying to replicate in my own yard (with varying degrees of success!).

If I had to pick one plant that captures that timeless cottage vibe, it would be lavender. You’ll spot it everywhere, from edging sunny borders to spilling over decorative pots.

With its unmistakable mass of fragrant purple blooms and silver-grey foliage, lavender may not have the show-stopping drama of a garden rose, but it’s a subtle beauty with an irresistible scent, making it an indispensable favorite that’s also loved by pollinators.

However, despite all of these qualities, this almost perfect plant has one major drawback — it tends to go woody after a couple of years. Instead of a lush shrub, it can start to look bedraggled and ruin the aesthetic you’re trying to achieve.

But my head has been turned by an alternative. Nepata, more commonly known as catmint, has the same qualities as lavender, but it doesn’t succumb to a woody end. What’s more, if you thought lavender was easy to care for, nepata is even easier, and it flowers for longer, too.

The problem with lavender

There’s no denying that lavender has a part to play in our gardens, and as Victor Castro, owner of the Nursery Project USA on behalf of Palmstreet, says, “Growing lavender adds a beautiful pop of purple to any yard, and it is also a smart choice to support pollinators.”

And although it is relatively easy to grow and survives well in a dry climate, it does have a few problems.

“Lavender can almost thrive with some neglect, but if you don’t make sure to prune it every year, it will become woody faster, losing its pretty color,” says Castro.

Pruning lavender with a clean and sharp pair of the best pruning shears is the easiest way to prevent it from becoming woody and will improve its blooms and quality of life.

“All you need to do is cut the stems back by about a third, and this encourages fresh growth with lots of fragrant blooms each year,” Castro tells me.

If you fail to prune your lavender, or prune it incorrectly, you can end up with a woody plant that looks unattractive.

Apart from pruning it wrong, too much water is an issue. “Growing lavender plants can be tricky as they are likely to suffer from root rot if overwatered and if their soil drainage is poor.”

To overcome these issues, he suggests planting lavender hedges and shrubs in full sun and well-drained soil. I enjoy growing lavender directly in the ground and in pots, but I’m extra careful when watering lavender in containers. I always ensure that I’ve placed crocks in the bottom of my pots to aid drainage, and I don’t water too much or too often.

Why nepeta makes a good alternative to lavender

If you were casually strolling along a pathway planted with nepeta, without close inspection, you’d probably assume it was lavender. The plants share the same purple blooms and airy habitat, which is why the two can often be confused.

“Its lavender-blue colored flowers look similar and give off an aromatic scent with soft, gray-green foliage on thin, arching stems typically ending with blue or violet flowers,” says Castro.

It’s a similar scenario to how hydrangeas can be replaced with viburnum, giving the same beautiful aesthetic, but with added fragrance.

So, why choose nepeta over lavender? I never think of lavender as being difficult to grow, but Castro says nepeta is easier, as it withstands difficult weather.

“It can thrive even with neglect in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade,” and he adds that it’s an easier choice over lavender because it can often thrive in areas where lavender struggles.

It’s also quicker to bloom and lasts for longer, starting in early spring and lasting all the way through to early fall. Lavender, by contrast, doesn’t typically start until late spring and finishes in mid-summer. And although lavender gives off a pleasant aroma, Castro says nepeta is also fragrant: “Its light scent is often described as a mix between spearmint and lavender.”

Not surprisingly, it’s part of the mint family, which makes it edible.

Lavender is often planted in wildflower gardens to attract pollinators, but nepeta offers a rich source of nectar too. Castro says honeybees, hummingbirds, bumblebees and butterflies will all flock to the food that’s easily accessible from the open, tube-shaped flowers.

How to care for nepeta

“Nepeta is a wonderful choice over lavender because it’s super easy to grow, adapts well to many well-draining soils and thrives in full sun, with partial shade,” says Castro.

Once established, nepeta is drought-tolerant and prefers slightly dry conditions over too much moisture in soil.

“Allow the top inch or so of soil to dry out between waterings, and water deeply but infrequently to encourage the development of deep roots,” says Castro

Regular pruning and deadheading are essential to keeping nepeta happy. “Once flowers start to appear, usually in late spring to early summer, consider cutting the plant by about a third of its height. This encourages fresh growth and often leads to a second bloom later in the season,” says Castro.

Overall, nepeta is very forgiving, and it will also survive harsh winters right down to USDA hardiness zone 3. So, if you're struggling with woody lavender, nepeta could be a good swap.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to extend the life of your lavender — experts share their tips
• What plants to prune in August — expert advice on how to gain better blooms
• The 7 best fragrant hedge plants to keep your yard fresh this summer and beyond

Summer is the best time to get out into your garden and enjoy your outside space. It's also one of the hardest times to keep your lawn in top condition, battling with hot weather, dry soil, and all of that extra use.

While I've been using 3 drought-proofing steps to protect my lawn during heatwaves, I can't help but notice I'm still struggling with specific issues. And I know I'm not the only one.

So, it only felt right to put it to our readers and ask: "What is the biggest problem you have with your lawn?" Over 3,000 of you answered, and here's what came out on top. Even better, I've got tips on how to fix it.

The number one lawn problem, according to readers

There was one resounding answer that came from our poll, far outweighing other issues, and that's bare patches. With a massive 3,079 votes totalling 64% of our readers' answers, it's a patchy lawn that seems to be causing the most bother.

To give you an idea of just how dominant this issue is, the second issue was crabgrass that received 625 votes (13%) followed by dog wee stains at 451 votes (9%) and dandelions at 388 votes (8%).

And I completely agree, struggling with bare patches myself and trying desperately to make sure my grass looks even across my lawn.

Fortunately, there's plenty of solutions to try that we've covered across a range of how-to guides. I'll delve into some of the top tips below and hopefully next time we run a poll, bare patches won't be such a problem.

How to tackle bare patches

From 5-minute quick fixes to step-by-step guides, depending on how much time you've got on your hands, these are the top tips I recommend to try out on that patchy lawn.

1. Try overseeding

It might seem like all hope is lost when your grass suddenly turns into a bare, soil patch on your lawn, but you can reapply seed to help with regrowth. It's called overseeding and it's a method used to block out weeds, cover up bare turf, and ultimately create a lawn that is covered with even grass.

But, you may find that even when you've overseeded it, you're still experiencing patchiness. There's a few reasons for that, but nothing our next step can't try and solve.

2. Reseed if the first go didn't take

Sometimes one overseeding session isn't quite enough and that's a problem answered by Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf when we spoke with her about yellow patches on lawns: "You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth."

The answer for this? Reseed and focus on even distribution across your lawn, in case the way you're applying it by hand is too thinly spread.

3. Add a layer of topsoil

Additionally, to protect the seed, you can add a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. As Handley recommends: "This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate."

Consider it an extra layer of protection, prompting grass growth and hopefully leading to a less patchy lawn.

4. Try a good fertilizer

Finally, you might want to think about adding some fertilizer to your lawn. Sure, it's hard to know how often you should fertilize your lawn and when to do it, but as advice widely varies it's always a good idea to check the type of fertilizer you're using and what job you want it to do.

If you can nail down some good practice with fertilizer, as well as choosing one that's suitable for the job, you can tackle those patchy areas in no time at all. Or, so I'm trying to do myself.

More from Tom's Guide

• Stop spending a fortune on expensive lawn treatments: These 7 genius budget-friendly hacks will give you a stunning green yard using simple tricks
• 9 tips to revive dead grass and make your lawn green again
• How often should you mow the lawn? We asked the experts

Summer is here, and there’s nothing I enjoy more than hosting friends in the garden, whether you're firing up the grill or simply enjoying the sunshine.

Yet, it’s incredibly frustrating when pesky flies start buzzing around your outdoor dining table or swarming indoors in their search for something to eat.

While I’ve tried everything to get rid of flies — from fans and citronella candles to homemade vinegar traps, these only provide a temporary solution before they come back with a vengeance.

But an expert has shared a clever hack that can help to banish flies. Surprisingly, this involves a few household ingredients and costs almost nothing, as the solution is sitting right in your freezer tray — ice cubes (yes, really).

So before you reach out for those toxic fly sprays, try this ice cube hack that may prevent flies from ruining your backyard enjoyment.

So what exactly is the ice cube repellent hack?

Essentially, this method involves freezing aromatic, citrusy elements that naturally repel these insects directly into your ice cubes. The idea is that adding them to your drinks outside will release a fresh scent that repels flies and should keep them away from your outdoor dining area.

“Most people have a lemon, some mint or even a few cloves tucked away in the kitchen, so you can just throw them into an ice cube tray and give it a go,” states expert Glen Peskett from Saxton Blades Multi Tools. “The fresh smell can help make your garden table less appealing to flies when you're sitting outside."

"It's not going to completely stop flies from appearing, especially if there's food left uncovered nearby, but it can be a useful extra step when you're having drinks or eating outside."

How to make fly-repelling ice cubes

To test this yourself, begin by slicing some citrus fruit like lemon or lime, or gather some fresh mint.

Next, place these zesty pieces into your ice tray, fill with water, and let them freeze solid overnight. Alternatively, you can make this up in a glass before pouring into your tray.

Once ready, you can drop these cubes directly into your beverages or simply scatter them across your garden table to keep the area smelling fresh and fly-free.

“The trick works best when used around areas where flies are most likely to appear, such as outdoor dining tables, patios and seating areas”, adds Peskett.

Of course, aromatic ice cubes alone won’t be enough to keep them away all day, and Peskett recommends combining the ice cube hack with other simple habits that make gardens less attractive to flies.

Maintaining habits such as keeping food and sugary drinks covered when eating outside, wiping down tables after meals, and clearing away leftovers as soon as possible can help to prevent flies from being attracted to your yard.

"Flies are usually drawn in by food smells, so the biggest thing is removing what attracts them in the first place," Peskett explains. "Little tricks like scented ice cubes can be a handy addition, but keeping your outdoor space clean is what will make the biggest difference."

“It might not be a miracle cure, but for something that takes seconds to make and can double up as a refreshing addition to a summer drink, it's an easy hack worth trying before your next garden gathering.”

Alternatively, you could try placing potted lavender plants near outdoor dining areas, as the strong fragrance is repulsive to flies or sticky traps.

The ice cube hack might not be a miracle cure, but it will take seconds to make and is cost-effective.

So why not try these aromatic ice cubes before your next garden gathering — so those annoying flies don’t ruin your fun.

Let us know in the comments below if this hack really works (or not) for you.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to mosquito-proof yourself this summer
• How to keep flies away from your houseplants for good — try these 7 expert tips
• How to tell the difference between fruit flies and drain flies

I must confess, I’ve been a bit late to the game when it comes to embracing robot lawnmowers for hands-free lawn maintenance. And given that I write about home and gardening trends for a living, this might come as a surprise.

But despite my loyalty to the power and reliability of my corded model, the constant hassle of untangling extension cords and getting to outdoor power points was starting to wear thin. Which is exactly what convinced me to finally let a robot lawn mower loose in my own yard.

Similar to robot vacuum cleaners, I thoroughly enjoyed the perks and convenience of just putting my feet up and letting a robot do all the work for me. Plus, it saved me the manual labor and the time-consuming nature of the chore.

However, there is a crucial detail I overlooked that I wished I had considered before using a robot mower. What’s more, this is a common issue that many people don’t factor in – and one of the top signs your yard may not be suitable for a robot lawn mower.

Here’s what happened when I first tried a robot lawnmower.

Check your robot mower is suitable for your lawn

One common assumption I had was that all robot lawnmowers would be ideal for every outdoor space. However, as it turns out, this is the one crucial detail I overlooked for my own uneven terrain.

Unlike standard flat yards, my lawn has a few bumps and features a noticeable dip toward the lower end.

I have to admit, I was very impressed with the precise trim and mapping performance given by my Terramow V1000 in my small-to-medium-sized yard.

In addition, the compact mower was easy to set up and connect via the app, with intuitive controls and settings.

Plus, for a novice in the world of robot mowers, these user-friendly features were a much-welcome bonus.

However, despite the razor-sharp trim, I noticed the robot lagged once it reached the more challenging slopes of my lawn and a paved path — in which case it would often get a little stuck (despite having rear-wheel drive).

While it wasn’t a dealbreaker helping it along past that point, it did make me realize that not all yards are suitable for standard domestic robot lawnmowers.

Typically, robot lawnmowers can work on all types of (mostly-flat) lawns; however, you’ll likely need a more powerful model to tackle uneven or steep inclines with ease.

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” said Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna.

“Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

In fact, my experience with the Terramow V1000 is a stark contrast to when I put the remote-operated Mowrator S1 4WD Lawnmower through its paces a couple of years ago. Although it’s not fully automated, I found it to be a mighty powerhouse for my yard. It handled my tricky hills and steep gradients effortlessly, delivering truly impressive results.

In any case, I still preferred the hands-free convenience of the Terramow any day. Plus, I liked how it was user-friendly, had smart features, and a compact size — making it easier to store away.

So, whether you’re looking to upgrade your mower or simply want your weekends to be stress-free, be sure to evaluate your lawn’s dimensions and terrain before choosing a mower with enough muscle to navigate your lawn’s challenges.

For more top tips, check out buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider before you get one.

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• Segway Navimow i110 robot lawn mower review: Perfectly trimmed grass without lifting a finger
• I went hands-on with Roborock’s new RockMow Z1 robot mower — these 3 features are game-changers
• The Sunseeker X3 Plus robot lawnmower has been trimming my yard all summer - 3 things I like and 1 I don't

Summer is when jade plants either thrive or struggle. The intense heat, longer days, and seasonal changes stress plants differently than other times of year. If your jade is suddenly dropping leaves, the cause is likely tied to summer conditions.

Jade plants are resilient succulents that can live for decades, but they communicate distress through leaf drop. Once you identify what's wrong, the fix is usually simple.

Here's how to diagnose the problem and get your jade back to healthy growth before fall arrives.

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• Yellow Monstera leaves signal stress — here’s how to save your plant and bring back the green
• My tomato plants were dropping flowers — then I tried this 2-second pollination hack

I've always found growing tomatoes tricky. Every year, I make a new attempt, but the results are inconsistent. One year, I'll get a few worthy of a salad, the next it'll be a total fail.

And as I sat out in my yard recently, I stared at this year's yield – tomato plants that had stopped growing entirely. So, I did what I love to do and headed online to social media to see if I could find an answer.

Fortunately, tomato growing hacks are never hard to find, from using this common kitchen scrap for zero-waste gardening to trying out an ingenious tomato-watering trick, but this time I was looking for something that would switch up my tomato growing game altogether.

Then, I found a TikTok that told me I've actually been doing it all wrong. It turns out we should all be planting our tomato plants horizontally. It might sound crazy, but it's actually a stroke of genius. Here's how it works.

How does it work?

I'm a sucker for TikTok creator, @creative_explained's videos and I'm not the only one. With over 7.5m followers, he's known for consistently sharing quick home and garden hacks with an enthusiasm that's infectious. I should know; I've been using his money-saving hack for giving my plants a boost this year, and I've been shocked by the results.

But it's this tomato planting hack that caught my attention this time. As he demonstrates, you take a tomato plant and strip all the leaves off the stalk, leaving just the top shoot with one leaf.

Then, you dig a trench in your garden bed. After exposing the roots of your tomato plant and breaking apart the soil at the base, lay the entire plant horizontally into the trench.

Bury the entire stalk with soil, leaving just the top shoot and leaf exposed. Raise just this part and hold it vertically with soil.

He explains: "What's going to happen now underneath the soil is that the tomato will grow roots all along its stem.

It'll start to grow new shoots. The stem pretty much transforms into an entire root system." Genius.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I fear I may have found this hack a little late for the tomato growing season, but with hot weather in my area, I figured I could still transplant outside with a totally new tomato plant to hand.

Planting it horizontally was simple enough, even if it did feel like a strange process. I've had success with @creative_explained's hacks before like using potato peel water in my soil, so I'm looking forward to seeing the results. In terms of process, it was easy to do, though I needed to find a space in my garden bed that was long enough to accommodate.

Fortunately, I recently dug up some old rhubarb that was suffering in the heat, so I had the space to try out this horizontal planting trick. Now, I just need to wait until fall to see the results, but it feels good to try out something entirely new for a change. Growing tomatoes is a tricky business, but this might well be the solution I've been desperately searching for.

More from Tom's Guide

• This cheap garden hack will help your roses grow — and all you need is a few old tea bags
• Stop wasting money on tomato feed — here’s how I made my own free fertilizer
• The 3 kitchen scraps I never throw away if I want sweet, ripe tomatoes

If there is one gardening chore that always feels like a losing battle, it’s dealing with those pesky weeds.

Whether they’re taking over my lawn and paved patio or surfacing between the gravel in my front yard — they seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while I’ve tried everything from commercial weed killers to homemade natural hacks, experts all agree that nothing beats pulling the taproot up by hand or with the right weeding tool.

Although there are various specialty tools like Grampa’s Weeder to spare your back from the strain, you don’t always need to splash out on new gear. I’ve just stumbled across one clever alternative that handles the hard work for you, and it’s likely already sitting in your toolkit or among your leftover decorating supplies.

Here’s why your painter’s tool could be a game-changer in the backyard.

How to use a painters tool to remove weeds

It turns out that your painter’s scraper or 5-in-1 tool can do so much more than just remove wallpaper. Experts have suggested it as an effective tool for getting into awkward spots to tackle weeds, especially in the tiniest of cracks.

Simply use the pointed end of this tool to get into those tight spots. In fact, the sharp edges are perfect for reaching into tiny crevices in patio pavers or driveways to pull out those persistent garden intruders.

In addition, this versatile multi-tool is great for clearing away thick moss, digging out deep-seated roots, or even cutting through bags of compost and soil. So it’s a win-win.

Whenever you can, using a scraper is much more efficient than the back-breaking task of hand-pulling. But if you prefer the manual method, experts agree you must remove the entire taproot to ensure those persistent weeds don't resurface.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels."

So before you head out to buy expensive weeding gear, you might want to take a look at your existing toolkit or leftover DIY stash for a clever weeding alternative.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

Seeing vibrant yellow blossoms drop off your tomato plants without ever setting fruit is easily one of the most frustrating parts of gardening. You’re watering correctly, feeding them on schedule, and the plants look healthy, so why aren't you getting any actual tomatoes?

The issue usually isn't your soil or your fertilizer routine at all. It comes down to a simple, hidden bottleneck inside the flowers themselves that stops fruit from forming. Luckily, there’s a 2-second technique that fixes the problem almost instantly, and all it takes is a quick touch of your fingertips.

Why tomato tapping actually works

In nature, tomatoes rely on bumblebees for buzz pollination, a process where bees vibrate their wings to release heavy, trapped pollen locked inside the flower. When pollinators are scarce or plants are grown in sheltered spots like greenhouses, those flowers drop off unfertilized.

Tapping your plants simply mimics a bee's wing vibrations to break that pollen free and force the plant to set fruit. Timing is everything: tap your plants mid-morning, between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when morning dew has dried and pollen is light and dusty.

The process takes seconds, whether you lightly flick the stem behind an open blossom with your index finger or give the plant's wooden stake or metal cage a firm tap to send vibrations down the vine. Repeat your chosen method every two to three days while plants are actively blooming.

What to expect (and how to prepare for a bumper crop)

Within two to three weeks of consistent tapping, instead of bare stems and fallen petals, you'll see full, symmetrical clusters of green fruit swelling all at once.

Because your vines will be carrying significantly more weight than usual, proactive crop management is crucial to keep the plant healthy. Be sure to upgrade your support early by securing main stems to stakes with soft garden twine before branches start to sag.

Heavy beefsteak or cherry clusters can easily snap under their own weight, so cradle large fruit trusses with extra ties fastened directly to the main support. And make sure your stakes or cages are driven deep into the soil so top-heavy plants don't tip over.

More from Tom's Guide

• When to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest
• Why are my tomato plant leaves turning yellow? 5 steps to save your harvest
• Gardeners swear by this simple tomato plant trick — here's how to save split tomatoes fast

I used to live in an apartment, and the defining decision that led us to move to a house was the desire for a backyard.

I was lucky enough to have somewhat of an outdoor space, but let's use this term loosely: it was a teeny tiny terrace, which I did love, but it was admittedly a little too small when we had guests over in the summertime.

And then there was the gardening side — the one thing I always tried (and failed) to do on my terrace was to grow flowers and herbs. All this time, I thought I wasn't green-fingered. But skip to now, and you'll find wildflowers, an olive tree, and even a (soon-to-be) cherry tomato plant in my yard.

Why am I telling you this? If you're not in a position to move house for the sake of growing some flowers or herbs, then I've found an impressively cheap balcony hack for budding gardeners who'd like to start growing their own produce. And most of it is available at IKEA. Who'd have thought?

As it turns out, using a rolling utility cart to grow a container garden is the small backyard or balcony hack that we've all been overlooking.

A genius way to plant your own produce, and better yet: it's movable should you move apartments or need to bring your herbs inside to protect them from the weather.

This genius IKEA hack requires just a few items and a squeeze of patience when planting. It'll be sure to wow guests and add some color to your dinner plate this summer and beyond.

Better yet? It brings some much-needed life to a balcony or terrace space, and it fits into a corner with ease, so it won't take up much of your precious balcony floorspace at all.

Here's how to get started on yours:

What you need

• IKEA's RASKOG Utility Cart - $29.99/ £19
• 3 potted herbs of your choice
• Fast-draining potting mix — like this bag from Amazon
• Some felt planter liner like this from Amazon

What to do

One of the best things about this utility cart is the fact that its shelves are designed with mesh bases to allow for optimum ventilation.

So, instead of having to drill drainage holes into each shelf to prevent waterlogging, you can keep your toolset in the garage. Instead, a felt planter liner will come in handy.

These are easy to cut to size and are super breathable. This way, your soil won't drain through the mesh shelf bases, but your plants will still drain!

I'd avoid mixing herbs and just stick to one herb type on each shelf. This way, they won't compete for nutrients — some herbs like mint are fast-spreading and will take over.

Depending on what you're planting, it might be smart to place water-loving herbs at the bottom of your cart, as these will get plenty of extra water from the drainage from the middle and top shelves.

It's a good idea to first pop each pot in the center of each shelf (plant inside the pot). Add the soil around the pot and pat it down so everything is compact and tight. Give it a little water.

Then, remove each pot slowly, and you'll be left with a hole from the pot. Remove the herb from the pot and place it in this perfect-sized hole. Water again.

Good to know

When watering, remember that the drainage needs to go somewhere, so you might find it beneficial to pop a tray of some sort underneath the bottom shelf of your utility cart, just in case.

The wheels on this cart are lockable, but these wheels also make it great for moving in and out of the sun. It also comes in 4 colorways — beige/yellow, gray/green, pink, or white.

You should move it inside in extreme weather; just be mindful of your floor and perhaps use a towel to protect from any spillages.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 mistakes it’s all too easy to make when growing herbs
• 7 easy-to-grow plants for beginners
• 10 vegetables you can grow in pots

When it comes to common pests in our backyard, skunks are probably the worst kind. Not only can they destroy your plants and lawn by digging for food sources such as grubs, but they can unleash a pungent, sulfuric odor that lingers throughout your entire property.

To make matters worse, while these striped critters may look harmless, they can carry diseases such as rabies and salmonella. They can also spread canine distemper, a condition that can be deadly for dogs.

That’s why it’s so important to know how to get rid of skunks and keep them away for good. Since they are primarily nocturnal, they can be harder to spot while feeding at night.

What’s more, even though humans find their stench unbearable, these pests are actually repelled by a specific, surprising scent — and it’s not coffee grounds.

So if you want to banish skunks immediately, use this trick to drive them away from your property today.

How to use kitty litter to repel skunks

For cat parents out there, your pet’s bathroom habits could actually be a game-changer. It turns out that skunks hate the pungent smell of used kitty litter, thanks to the strong ammonia found in cat urine.

To use kitty litter effectively, place the tray or container at the entry points where skunks are getting through. If in doubt, thoroughly inspect your yard, in particular any tucked-away spots like the areas beneath porches, sheds, or garden corners.

Alternatively, if you’d rather not have kitty litter scattered across your yard, simply place it inside a perforated plastic bag. This keeps things tidy while still allowing those repulsive ammonia fumes to escape and deter the skunks.

Bear in mind that this repulsive scent will eventually fade. So to maintain its effectiveness, you’ll need to regularly swap out the old litter for a fresh supply when possible. Plus, it’s a great way to repurpose and put your kitty litter to good use — a win-win!

Top tips to get rid of skunks

Of course, you don’t have to invest in a cat just to repel skunks from your yard. There are other, practical things you can do to make your yard less inviting for such pests.

First of all, secure your garbage/trash cans and don't let them overflow. Since skunks are attracted to areas where they can find food sources, you’ll often find them turning over trash cans and generally making a mess. The same goes for other food sources you might leave out for birds or other pets, and remove stagnant water that serves as another major skunk magnet.

Another top tip is to block any visible entry points, as such pests are notorious for digging dens beneath sheds, porches, foundations, and even under AC unit pads. Experts suggest sealing these crevices using metal flashing or sturdy hardware cloth. Just ensure every connection is tight and flush to keep them out for good.

Alternatively, if you’re dealing with a persistent skunk issue, it’s always best to call in the professionals and NEVER try to handle a skunk yourself.

For more top tips, check out how to spot the signs of a skunk and keep them away from your property.

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If you’ve ever watched your tomato plants struggle to transition from green, stubborn globes to juicy, vibrant red fruits, you aren’t alone. Getting tomatoes to perfectly ripen requires the right balance of nutrients, soil structure, and plant vitality.

Thankfully, you don't need store-bought supplements to give them a boost. The secret to a bumper crop of sweet, perfectly ripe tomatoes is sitting right in your kitchen garbage.

By strategically using crushed eggshells, banana peels, and coffee grounds, you can deliver a targeted nutrient cocktail that fuels fruit development and speeds up the ripening process.

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With the arrival of summer, seasonal pests are at their absolute peak — and ants are my number one problem.

And if it’s not trying to banish ants from my yard or blocking them from my kitchen — now they've launched a full-scale invasion of my garden beds too.

We’ve been trying to grow a vegetable patch in my raised planter — where we’ve recently planted everything from fresh herbs and salad greens to melon seeds. But that took a frustrating turn when I discovered the soil had become a playground for ants, literally swarming on the soil and attacking some of the plants.

Since I didn’t want to contaminate my crops with chemicals, I called on the gardening experts to share some top tips on the most effective ways to save my raised beds from these tiny invaders.

What causes ants to invade raised beds?

One thing that always puzzled me was what attracted ants to my raised beds — especially when it’s literally off the ground.

"Ants usually follow one of two things — food or real estate,” states Kyle Turner, President & CEO of Be Proactive Pest Control. “Raised beds offer loose, well-drained soil that's perfect for tunneling, and if you have aphids on your vegetables, you've basically opened an all-you-can-eat buffet."

What’s more, scale insects or other sap-feeding pests produce a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew, which is enticing to ants who collect it as a tasty food source.

“The issue is when large colonies begin disturbing roots or protecting aphids from their natural predators.”

Another thing I learned is that during these sweltering temperatures, consistently dry soil provides the ideal environment for a colony to thrive, which perfectly explains the infestation I found. Plus, if you have rotting timber around older raised beds, this will also attract these tiny critters.

Surprisingly, not all ants are a cause for concern and may actually be helpful in the yard.

“It is also worth remembering that a few ants in a raised bed are not always harmful,” adds Rick Young, Pest Control Professional and Owner of Youngs Pest Control.

“Ants can aerate the soil and remove dead insects. Action is usually only needed when there is a large nest, plants are being disturbed, aphids are being protected, or ants are repeatedly entering the home from the planter.”

How to get rid of an ant infestation without harming your plants?

So, what’s the best way to remove an army of ants? "The best long-term fix is to eliminate the reason they're there,” suggests Turner.

“If aphids are present, knock them off plants with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap. Once the honeydew disappears, the ants often lose interest. For nests in the bed, repeatedly soaking the colony with water can encourage them to relocate without affecting your vegetables."

In addition, always inspect your plants and ensure they are in good shape. "Keep plants healthy, inspect the undersides of leaves regularly for aphids, harvest ripe produce promptly, and avoid letting weeds establish around the beds since they can host both aphids and ants," Turner adds.

Another top tip is to ensure you regularly give your raised bed a deep watering. Since ants prefer dry, well-drained nesting sites, watering can encourage them to move along.

Just be sure not to overwater, as you want to avoid the risk of waterlogging or ruining your plant roots.

What natural ant repellents can I use?

I’m a big advocate for using non-toxic pest solutions around the house, and it turns out that beyond D.E (food-grade), everyday kitchen staples can be just as effective at keeping ants at bay.

“Cinnamon applied around the bed perimeter works as a genuine deterrent, not just folklore,” advises Glen Chandler, Gardener & Founder of Evergreenseeds.com. “Ants avoid crossing it, and it breaks down harmlessly into the soil. Reapply after rain.

“Diluted peppermint oil (about 10 drops per litre of water) sprayed around the base of plants disrupts the scent trails ants use to navigate. It needs to be reapplied every few days, but it's completely safe around edibles.”

What’s more, I tried citrus peel in my kitchen when I had a few rogue ants, and I was impressed at how effective it was. Plus, it was a good way to repurpose my food waste.

“Citrus peel worked into the top layer of soil releases d-limonene as it breaks down, which ants strongly avoid,” agrees Chandler. “I tell gardeners to save their lemon and orange peels through the week and work them in around the bed edges.”

Armed with these expert-approved tips, I feel much better equipped to banish any ant colony from my raised beds and reclaim my garden this season. Watch this space.

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When it comes to house chores, vacuuming has got to be the one task that I often do (and find weirdly satisfying).

And since I review the best vacuum cleaners for a living, I’ve got the bonus of testing out the latest models on my hardwood, tiles, and carpet to see which one can ultimately get my floors spotless and dust-free in no time.

From bagged and upright to cordless and air-blasting handhelds, I’ve tested them all. But when the Shark BlastBoss came my way, I found a new use for it altogether – and it wasn’t for cleaning.

Despite looking like a retro hair dryer, the BlastBoss is exactly that — it’s a powerful, air-blasting system that can be used to blast away cobwebs, dustballs, or loosen debris and leaves in seconds.

In fact, the adjustable-speed trigger can ramp up the airflow up to an eye-watering 190mph. What's more, it comes with attachments including a broom brush for scrubbing outdoor surfaces.

But while it serves as an impressive cleaning tool for shifting ingrained dirt, this has surprisingly become my gardening must-have.

Here’s how I’ve put my handheld BlastBoss to use outdoors.

Blowing grass clippings

If there is one outdoor task that I find particularly tedious, it’s raking the lawn after a fresh mow — especially the struggle of catching those stray clippings that always seem to end up on my paved patio.

I simply switched the setting to ‘Outdoor’ and was literally blown away by its sheer power. It effortlessly cleared the clippings in seconds, allowing me to gather everything into a single pile for a far more efficient clean-up.

Just bear in mind that you’ll need dry conditions for this to work effectively, as it won’t shift wet or soggy clippings.

Or if you really want to put your clippings to good use, check out why you should be leaving grass clippings on your lawn after mowing.

A handy leaf blower

At the back of my garden, the overgrown trees are often shedding foliage — resulting in a messy carpet of leaves scattered across the patio and lawn.

Rather than investing in a bulky, expensive leaf blower, I found the BlastBoss works as a surprisingly good alternative for clearing away my fallen leaves.

I was able to blast them into a tidy heap where it was easier for me to dispose of them in my compost bin. What's more, this task was quick and fuss-free, which is always a bonus.

Clearing debris/ weeds

Similarly, this powerful gadget proved brilliant for corralling stray weeds and general outdoor detritus.

After the arduous job of pulling out weeds from between my front paving stones, I used the powerful airflow to blast the remnants into a single heap for a far easier clear-up.

Not only did this make sure that all the weeds were in one spot (easy for me to spot), but made it a far more tidy-looking space.

For more weeding tips, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

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Peace lilies are forgiving houseplants until they're not. They tolerate neglect, bounce back from underwater watering, and look elegant in corners where other plants struggle.

But they have one non-negotiable requirement: regular feeding. Without it, those glossy green leaves start losing their shine, blooms become sparse, and your plant quietly declines into a sad, pale version of itself.

Get the timing and amount right, and your peace lily rewards you with vibrant foliage and those signature white flower spathes appearing constantly. Here's how to feed your plant so it actually thrives.

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There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes. And if you enjoy picking these straight from the vine and into your dishes (or mouth), it can be a letdown when your crop misses that bold, juicy flavor you had hoped for.

However, even though it looks ripe and ready for the picking, you’ll need to know the best stage of ripeness for picking a tomato.

What’s more, tomatoes on the vine are constantly at risk of damage from weather extremes, pests, and disease. Which is why identifying the ideal time to harvest is crucial for securing a high-quality, delicious yield.

So if you want to avoid a bland and disappointing crop, here are the three tomato picking stages — to ensure they are bursting with the juicy flavor you crave.

1. When your tomatoes are fully ripe and red

This is when your tomato crops have reached their full size, red color, and are firm in texture. These signs indicate that your harvest is ready for consumption, and experts suggest eating or using them immediately after they are picked for maximum flavor.

However, after harvesting, be sure you consume them within a day or two to enjoy them before their peak flavor begins to fade.

It’s also worth noting that the kind of tomato plant you select is vital for its final flavor.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D, horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield. Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before choosing which seeds to sow, you should investigate which particular cultivars align with your preferred flavor profiles.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. The ‘color break’ or turn stage

As the name suggests, this is the point at which the fruit begins to get color, about the size of a dime on the blossom end.

While it’s tempting to pluck and eat the fruit at this stage, you may be disappointed with the overall taste, as it hasn’t yet fully ripened.

A top tip is to place them on a countertop at room temperature for three days, and the tomato should ripen — ready for your tasty dishes.

Of course, if you want to keep them for longer, store them in the fridge for a few days.

3. Mature green stage

This is when your plant has a lighter green color but no pink/red showing yet on the blossom end. Typically, this indicates that your tomatoes are not quite ready to harvest, and usually takes about a week to fully ripen.

However, you can pluck and store them in the fridge for a few weeks at this stage of development. In addition, gardeners usually harvest mature green crops as the season ends to protect them from frost.

Top tip for tasty tomatoes

Although the heatwave might encourage more frequent watering, overwatering your plants can actually wash out the bold flavor you desire.

To avoid diluting those essential sugars and acids, a good tip is to water only once the upper two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer.

“Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll need to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering.

Add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all vital for healthy development and full flavor.

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest

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I bought my first hydrangea this year. And despite everyone I know (well, my mom and grandma) telling me to plant it in the ground, I decided to defy the odds and keep it in my lovely garden pot. And it worked for approximately two months until it totally died. Or so I thought it did.

I took a few snaps of my once-pink and beautiful hydrangea and asked AI to help me bring it back to life. To my surprise, there were several things I was doing wrong, all of which definitely contributed to its rapid decay.

Now? It's showing some signs of regrowth, and I didn't even have to spend any money. Here's hoping that next year will bring some of these beautiful blooms back again.

Yes, there is a chance that you can save your potted hydrangea if it's looking a little sad because of the heat.

So whether you are battling parched patches or fragile stems, here is my personal process—and the expert-backed steps you should implement—before you give up and toss everything into the compost heap. After all, a little effort can go a long way!

1. You need to trim it back (trust me!)

One of the worst things that you can do if your hydrangea is dying is leave it to wilt and die.

Instead, you need to chop away the dead bits to make way for new life. Start by removing dead leaves and then focus on the dead stems.

A good way to test the stems is to scratch them slightly. If they are green underneath, they are alive, but brown means they're dead.

I had to trim back my entire hydrangea in the end, and I really wasn't feeling hopeful afterwards, to be honest. But I did manage to find a good few stems showing slithers of life.

2. It definitely needs a good drink

You might think that just watering your hydrangea with your watering can is enough. And most of the time, it is.

But when it's looking really sad or maybe almost dead, then it's time for a sink bath. Simply use your plug and fill your kitchen sink with water, place your pot in there, and let it have a really good drink.

A good way to check if your hydrangea needs a sink bath is to use a finger and poke it into its soil. If it's soggy or musty 2-3 inches down, it's been overwatered, or there might be poor drainage. If it's totally dry, in the sink it goes.

I left mine in the sink for 30 minutes. I then let it fully drain afterwards, before walking it back through my house and to my garden.

3. It probably needs to be moved

My garden is south-facing, which you think is great until it hits the summer months and being barefoot outside is no longer an option.

So, watering your plants three times a day becomes a chore and a necessity. All jokes aside: a south-facing garden is a little bit of a nightmare. And it's also probably the reason why some of your plants aren't surviving! After I moved my hydrangea from one side of my garden to the other, I saw a difference.

Simply moving its position from all-day sun to only morning sun and afternoon shade gave this plant a little bit of a break.

Now, it lives in the one spot in my garden that gets shade first, and it's loving it.

4. Feed it coffee

Just like yourself, your hydrangea plant thrives when given a coffee (or five!).

I have a bean-to-cup coffee maker, and I've been feeding this plant the spent grounds and water for around six weeks.

I don't overdo it, but a little does definitely help! There are so many good uses for coffee when it comes to gardening.

Top tip

You might find that a few weeds start growing in your potted hydrangea as you're trying to encourage new growth.

This is normal, but you should definitely remove these from the root as soon as possible. These weeds will be taking away any nutrients from your hydrangea, and as we know, it desperately needs all of the nutrients it can get right now.

The end results

Six weeks later, I can finally see new life coming back to my hydrangea plant. There's no chance of blooming flowers just yet, but it is showing promising signs of regrowth thanks to its obviously new and green leaves in the center of its pot.

And I even asked AI to confirm this for me, in case it was wishful thinking. I told it my location, and it assessed the photo I sent.

The roots are definitely still alive, and it's starting to reshoot from the base, which is what hydrangeas do after a severe dieback.

If yours is looking the same, then it recommends leaving it for another 2-3 weeks without pruning, as the current stems will protect new growth. After this, you can decide which stems are finally dead and which ones are showing positive signs. In this time, keep it moist but don't let it sit in lots of water.

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Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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