Fall is here, and it’s already taken its toll on my once-lush, green grass. But before the weather turns too chilly, October provides the perfect opportunity to repair damaged lawns and prepare them for the winter months ahead.

And one essential task is to aerate your lawn to prevent waterlogging and ensure key nutrients reach the soil. However, with constant drizzles and damp conditions expected throughout the fall season, is it okay to aerate a wet lawn?

I asked a lawn care expert to find out and get their top tips.

Can I aerate a wet lawn?

Generally, you can aerate a slightly damp lawn but not when it’s saturated with heavy rain — so it’s important to distinguish between the two.

“A simple rule is that damp is fine, soggy isn’t — if water is standing on the surface or the tines come out coated in sticky mud, wait a few days,” states Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith.

“Spring and fall are the best times to aerate partly because the soil is moist, which makes it easier to get the tines in, and showers can soak straight into the freshly aerated soil. What you don’t want is soil that’s so wet it smears. Then you’re not opening up the soil; you’re sealing it, and you still want air reaching the roots.”

Top tips for aerating a damp lawn

What's the best way to aerate a damp lawn in fall? While there are several ways to aerate your lawn, it’s important to choose the right tool in fall.

Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators. Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the ground is on the damp side, solid-tine spiking is the gentlest approach, and you can do it any time from March to November, but avoid very wet soil that smears,” advises Davis.

You’ll also need to know the right time to aerate your lawn and best practices. “Fall, from the end of September to mid-November, is ideal as the weather is getting wetter rather than drier,” suggests Davis. “If you’re using a hollow tine aerator, mow the lawn close beforehand as it makes the cores much easier to deal with.

“Cores should be left to dry in place. Then go over them with the mower with the box off, if the instructions allow. It puts the soil and nutrients back into the lawn and helps break down thatch. If you can’t do that, rake them up with the back of a flat rake, use them as top dressing, or add them to the compost heap.

Finally, finish with a good soak on compacted areas. After spiking or hollow tining a heavily compacted patch, run the sprinkler for 30 minutes, then leave it off for a day or two.

Also, look for telltale signs your lawn needs aerating, including patchy, yellow grass or water sitting on the surface after rainfall.

When not to aerate a wet lawn

Besides knowing when it's the right time to aerate wet soil, you should also know when to avoid it. This includes before incoming frost, which can freeze the aeration holes and harm the lawn.

“Don’t aerate very wet soil that smears, and don’t do it if frost is imminent because freezing soon after hollow tining will make the lawn heave up,” adds Davis.

“Don’t leave the cores on the lawn to disappear, as they won’t break down fully and you’ll end up with a bumpy surface. Finally, don’t expect aeration to fix everything. If your lawn is 20 years old or more and badly compacted, you may need to dig it over to at least 15cm and start again.”

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

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• 7 common lawn care mistakes you’re probably making right now
• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
• 5 plants that will keep wasps out of your yard

Fall has arrived, but cooler temperatures don’t mean you should put away your garden tools just yet. You still have essential tasks to complete to prepare your yard for the winter ahead. And just when you thought it was time to pack away your lawn mower until spring, you may want to think again.

According to a lawn expert, gardeners need to continue mowing through October — because mild fall temperatures allow grass to keep growing.

Not only can this simple task promote a healthy, green lawn, but long grass can actually do more harm than good.

“Long grass holds on to moisture, especially with the damp mornings and heavy dew we get in fall,” says Jonathan Davis, a lawn expert at Lawnsmith.

“That creates the perfect conditions for fungal diseases like red thread and fusarium patch to take hold. Once they get a grip, they can leave your lawn looking patchy and sorry for itself by spring.”

What’s more, moss is one of the most common lawn weeds, known as a ‘silent grass killer’, that appears in the form of green, sponge-like patches between the blades of grass.

“Moss loves damp, shady spots, and at this time of year there's plenty of both. If your grass is long and thick, the light can't reach the base of it, meaning your lawn will struggle.”

So if you want to get your lawn in top shape for spring, here are some top tips for mowing your lawn in October.

How to cut your lawn in fall

Avoid cutting your grass too short; the ‘golden rule’ is to never trim more than a third of its height. This is because mowing too close to the ground exposes the lawn to root diseases and encourages weed growth.

“Never cut more than a third off the height of the grass in one go,” he said. “Think of grass like an iceberg: a fifth above ground and four fifths below,” adds Davis.

“Take too much off, and you reduce the roots, leaving the plant weak and more vulnerable to disease and weeds.”

In any case, if you are battling weeds, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

In addition, Davis advises gradually changing your mower's height for a couple of cuts before making the final adjustment. And don't lower the blades if the grass is very long, as it'll put strain on the mower. Ideally, cut on your current setting first, then go lower a day or two later.

Also, it’s best to get the timing right — choose a dry afternoon for mowing and avoid cutting when the grass is wet or frosty. “Wait for a dry spell and go over it when growth slows right down. A little effort now means a much healthier, greener lawn when spring comes round.”

When is the final cut of the year?

So when is it finally time to put away your lawn mower this season? Experts agree that around mid-November, you should leave the grass at around 5cm.

“That's the sweet spot for winter,” adds Davis. “It's long enough to protect the roots from frost and keep the crown healthy, but short enough that it won't become a soggy, matted mess over the colder months.”

So before you put your mower to rest, give your grass that essential trim this October, and your lawn will thank you for it come spring.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

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It’s not quite time to discard your best gardening gloves. While spring has traditionally been the main gardening season, you can still add more color to your yard in fall — before the frost sets in.

With warm early-fall temperatures and consistent rainfall, your new plants can establish deep, healthy root systems long before the next growing season, and they’ll get a head start without worrying about summer drought.

Enjoy the magic of fall

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, says that while fall is traditionally associated with the final harvest and putting your garden to bed, savvy gardeners know it is actually one of the most magical seasons of the year.

Richard King, an expert at Dino Decking, agrees, adding that with the right plant choices, you can add instant color and interest now and create a garden that looks good through the dark winter months.

“Fall is often treated as the end of the gardening year, when in reality it’s one of the best times to start preparing for the seasons ahead. The mistake many people make is waiting until spring to think about color and planting, when there are plenty of plants that can transform a garden through the darker months,” says King.

Although summer is officially over, you don’t have to give up on color. Here are three plants to brighten up your fall garden.

1. Chrysanthemums — there’s still time to enjoy flowers

As summer bedding fades, King suggests planting chrysanthemums for a final burst of color in your yard.

Available in a wide range of colors, they extend a garden display well into fall. Apart from being enjoyed outside, King says, “Chrysanthemums make an excellent cut flower, meaning their impact doesn’t have to stop at the back door."

Top tip
Keep plants watered while they establish and regularly remove faded flowers to encourage a longer-lasting display.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9

2. Japanese maple — don't forget about height and structure

My absolute favorite fall plant is my Japanese maple (Acer palmatum). It’s an exceptional small tree that doesn’t take over my yard, but still adds height and structure. And with its dark red leaves, it adds a splash of color and keeps my yard lively in the cooler months.

Palphram also agrees that Japanese maples have a place in fall gardens, and beyond deep red, they offer a range of autumnal colors. “As the days shorten, acers put on an unforgettable show with fiery crimson, deep oranges, and golden yellows,” he says.

Top tip
According to Maple Ridge Nursery, red Japanese Maples typically handle more sun than their green counterparts, so check what’s the best position before you plant. They also prefer well-drained, consistently moist soil, and one that’s slightly acidic.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-8

3. Carex 'Evergreen' — choose grasses for a low-maintenance option

Carex Evergold has distinctive gold-and-green variegated ribbon-like leaves that can brighten borders, containers and any dull corner.

"As an evergreen grass, it continues to provide foliage interest through the colder months, making it a useful choice for gardeners who want color and structure without relying solely on flowers," explains King.

Top tip:
While most ornamental grasses thrive in sun, Palphramand explains that varieties like Carex prefer shade and moist, well-managed soil. King also advises planting in a spot with good drainage and trimming away tired or damaged foliage in late winter to encourage fresh growth.

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9

Why fall is a great time to enjoy grasses

Whether you are planning a minimalist urban courtyard, a modern prairie-style planting scheme, or a soft texture for a country cottage garden, grasses cover it all.

Ornamental grasses add a distinct layer of luxury, rustling in the breeze and catching the golden fall sunlight. Palphramand adds that they create an effortless, high-end aesthetic, a sensational structure in rich bronze, copper, and amber tones, while being incredibly resilient.

Over to you
Have you put your gardening gloves away for the year, or will you be planting in the fall? Let me know in the comments below.

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• 3 expert-approved tasks you must do in October to get your yard ready for fall
• 3 essential fall jobs to protect young trees before the first cold snap

I’ve got plenty of trees in my yard, and right now I’m enjoying watching the wind carry the leaves to the ground. But despite creating a bright gold-and-russet spectacle across my lawn, I’m worried that as they pile up, they’ll damage the grass and keep it from performing well in the spring.

While I usually get out my garden rake to clear them and use them in my beds and borders to stop weeds, I’m wondering what to do with the pile that remains, and what benefits raking and mowing leaves provide. For expert advice, I asked Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, whether raking or mowing the leaves is best.

Raking leaves

Davis explains that raking leaves removes them completely, which he says matters because “a layer of leaves can smother grass and kill it in just a few weeks.”

He adds, “Leaves also reduce the grass’s vigor, which lets moss take over, and they can encourage lawn disease and attract worms.”

Once raked, he recommends adding them to your borders as a mulch or into your compost heap. Alternatively, if you have the space, he says, “Stack them in a corner or in a bin bag with a few holes in it and leave them for a year or two to make leaf mold, which is an excellent soil improver.”

Should you rake wet leaves?

It’s best if you wait for the leaves to dry out before raking. “Dry leaves are light and lift easily off the grass. Wet leaves mat together into a heavy, slippery layer that’s hard work to rake, and they stick to the lawn,” says Davis.

But as leaves prevent light and air from reaching your lawn, left in place they do more harm. In this scenario he advises, “If the weather is wet for days, don’t wait for perfect conditions. Clear them as best you can, because wet leaves sitting on the grass are worse than damp raking.”

How often should you rake leaves?

Raking up leaves should be a weekly task in the fall. “Leaves can smother grass and kill it in just a few weeks, so the longer they sit, the more damage you risk.”

In a heavy fall, or if the weather’s wet and the leaves are matting down, Davis recommends going over the lawn more often. “Little and often is far easier than waiting until the tree is bare and facing a thick, soggy layer,” he adds.

What’s the best way to rake leaves?

I find raking leaves can feel like a gym workout — only with worse weather. To save energy and finish the job efficiently, start with the right tools and technique.

LawnStarter suggests using a wide plastic rake for dry leaves, and a metal rake with a spring joint for damp leaves. You may also find it useful to have a tarp handy to place the leaves on, which you can easily move when you’re finished.

When you're ready to start, work from the outer edges toward the center to create a single pile and keep leaves from blowing back over cleared areas. If you’re tackling a large yard, break it down into manageable sections. Finally, always rake with the wind — fighting a gusty breeze only doubles your effort.

Mowing leaves

Raking leaves might be best if you have a small patch, but if you have a large lawn, mowing fallen leaves will save time and energy and provide organic fertilizer.

And if your leaves are dry, Davis advises mowing over them rather than raking. But he warns, “They’ll look a bit unsightly for a few days, but chopped leaves are smaller, meaning they break down faster and add useful organics to the lawn.”

Why it’s easier to mow dry leaves

Rather than making the job harder than it needs to, Davis suggests avoiding mowing wet leaves. “Dry leaves shred cleanly and scatter back into the lawn. Wet leaves clump, clog the mower and leave soggy patches on the grass, so they’re best left until the lawn and leaves have dried out.”

Did you know?

Just as a robot lawnmower takes a fine shaving off your lawn and the cuttings act as mulch, the same process works when you mow your leaves. Rather than removing them and bagging them up, they can be left to work their way into the soil. Just make sure they haven’t smothered the grass.

Do you need to adjust the mower blade?

Rather than keeping the mower blade at the height you use for your normal cut, Davis recommends raising it.

“For the first pass, raise the blade a notch or two above your normal setting, which helps the mower pick up and chop the leaves without scalping the grass. Then go over it again at your usual autumn height, roughly 1.5 to 5 inches for most lawns,” he advises.

Although he warns against cutting the grass too short at this time of year, as it weakens the root system and reduces winter stamina.

Do you need special equipment to mow leaves?

When it comes to mowing the leaves on your lawn, Davis says you don’t need any special equipment. “A rotary mower is fine, but mulching mowers do a better job as they double-cut the leaves.”

He adds that many modern rotary mowers have a mulching attachment, which is worth using, though it isn’t as effective as a full-time mulching machine.

Aside from your mower, he says, “You may also find a leaf blower or rake is handy for gathering leaves from awkward spots or into rows before you mow.”

Should you remove the mower bag?

Davis advises that whether you remove the mower bag when mowing depends on your goal. “To mulch them back into the lawn, take the bag or box off and mow with the mulching setting or a rear-discharge setting if the manufacturer allows it.

However, if the leaf cover is heavy or you’d prefer a tidy lawn, he suggests leaving the bag on so the mower collects the shredded leaves. He says, “They make a good addition to the compost heap, and shredded leaves rot down much faster than whole ones.”

How often should you mow leaves?

Just like when raking leaves, Davis recommends mowing the leaves little and often. He says, “Aim for once a week during leaf fall, so the covering stays light and the shredded pieces can work down into the lawn rather than building up in a thick layer. If you can still see the grass through the chopped leaves, you’ve got it right.”

Raking or mowing — what will you do?

I prefer to mow over the leaves rather than rake them. Smaller pieces break down more easily, and leaf mold is less likely to develop. I can then leave some to break down on my lawn and move the rest to use as mulch in my beds. Either way, it's better than bagging your leaves and sending them to landfill.

I’d be interested to know what you plan to do with the fallen leaves that are covering your lawn. Let me know in the comments below.

And while you're sorting out your lawn, you might also be interested in Don’t wait until spring: 3 plants to give your yard an instant fall vibe.

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• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month

Fall is official here, and it’s already taken its toll on my previously lush and green grass. But, before things get too chilly, October is the ideal time to repair your damaged lawn and prepare for the colder months ahead.

And if, like me, you’ve tackled this by scattering grass seed on those sparse or bare patches, it can be a little disheartening when you haven’t seen any growth sprouting through at all.

That's why I called on a lawn care expert to find out why my grass isn't growing, common mistakes to avoid, and top tips on how to fix it.

Check the weather forecast

According to experts, now is the time to do those all-important lawn repairs. But the process just takes a bit more preparation than expected, and results will naturally depend on weather conditions and technique.

“Thriving spring lawns are built in fall. Thanks to a shift in weather patterns, soil temperatures are staying warmer for longer,” says Chris McIlroy, a lawn expert at The Grass People.

“If temperatures start to stay consistently below 46.4 °F to 50.0 °F, then the window for sowing is closing, so do keep an eye on the forecast. You need a two-week window where the temperatures are above this.”

In addition, be sure to check your soil temperature using a soil thermometer before seeding. Typically, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass need soil temperatures below 65°F, while warm-season varieties like Bermuda grass need at least 65°F.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

Protect it from hungry birds

If you enjoy feeding or watching birds in your yard, these feathered visitors might be another reason your grass seed isn't growing.

“Birds can see freshly laid grass seed as an easy-access buffet, especially at this time of year when other food resources are starting to dwindle,” explains McIlroy. “So they’re taking your seed before it even has a chance to germinate."

So what can we do to prevent our hungry birds from swiping our freshly-laid grass seed?

"Shiny objects like tin foil and old CDs can deter birds from your garden, as the way they reflect light confuses them," adds McIlroy.

"Or you can also cover the seeds with tarp or netting, but make sure it’s not blocking too much light or water from the seeds.”

Not sowing deep enough

Another common mistake is failing to plant seeds at the right depth or in suitable growing conditions. “Seeds should be roughly the depth of three stacked coins to ensure the right seed-to-soil contact for germination, advises McIlroy.

“It keeps seeds protected and warm, and provides the nutrients they need to grow. If the elements have left your seeds exposed, try adding a light layer of topsoil to give seedlings that extra support.”

In addition, you need to ensure you water your seeds properly, but don’t oversaturate them. If seeds are waterlogged or sitting in a pool of water, they won't survive. “Seeds also need to be hydrated but not waterlogged. If they’re left too dry, the seeds will die off, so keep an eye on soil moisture levels".

“Fixing drainage by aerating your lawn is a key step for success, ensuring water has somewhere to go when it rains. Similarly, if your lawn is bumpy, this creates areas for water to pool.”

Other tips include feeding your lawn with a starter fertilizer, which can help grass establish faster with stronger roots. Or simply have some patience, and let nature take its course.

"Sometimes seeds just need a little more time; depending on the conditions, germination can take up to 14 days, and noticeable grass growth even longer."

Check out our expert-approved tips on how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

You might also be interested in the fall lawn care mistake you’re probably making —and the secret to a greener lawn next spring.

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• 9 ways to get the most out of your lawn mower
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No one ever likes the thought of rats roaming their yard or property. And as temperatures drop this fall, rodents are actively searching for food and shelter—making your yard a prime target if left unprepared.

That’s why it’s crucial to ensure you don’t make your home inviting for such pests by removing the things in your yard that attract rats and mice to your space. The last thing you want is an infestation.

However, even if you maintain a clean and tidy yard, you could be missing one overlooked item. If you (or your neighbor) have fruit trees, you could be unknowingly inviting rats to feast in your yard.

Here’s why a pest expert urges homeowners to clear fallen fruit right now — and a few other top tips to be mindful of, too.

Clear fallen fruit often

Fruit-picking season might be over, but there could be a late crop that is still ripening or falling on the ground. And if left to pile up under the tree or lying around on your lawn, this is an open invitation for rats to feast on.

“Gardens can provide plenty of easy food sources, especially when fallen fruit is left lying around,” states Chris Bonnett, horticulturist and founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk.

“Fallen apples, pears, plums and other fruit can provide an easy source of food for rats, particularly when it is left on the ground to become overripe. Check underneath fruit trees regularly and collect fallen produce before it has a chance to build up.”

To prevent an infestation, be sure to clear fallen fruit from your yard frequently and either discard it or throw it in your compost bin — where you can repurpose it in your garden all year.

“A quick tidy-up every few days can make a big difference. Clear away fallen fruit, keep bird food contained, and make sure bins are properly secured to avoid giving rats any easy reasons to stick around.”

Top tips

Rats are relentless opportunists when it comes to food, and even tiny scraps of bird seed or pet food can quickly transform your yard into a rodent buffet.

“Bird feeders can unintentionally provide food for rats,” adds Bonnett. “Try to position them where spilled seed is less likely to build up, and give the area underneath a regular sweep. Avoid putting lots of food directly on the ground, as this can make it an easy target for rats.”

Other top tips include securing trash cans and maintaining your yard. Overgrown grass and weeds offer ideal hiding spots for rats, so keeping your lawn trimmed and pathways clear makes your outdoor space far less inviting.

“Keeping grass cut, weeds under control, and areas around sheds and paths clear can make your garden less appealing to them.”

So if you don’t want to invite rats for a backyard feast, be sure to clear that fallen fruit right now.

For more top tips, check out how to rat-proof your yard.

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My lawn is a colorful mix of yellow, gold, and russet tones, draped in a thick layer of fallen leaves from my trees. And while I’m tempted to grab my garden rake and clear them up so I can see my lawn again, an expert urges gardeners to think twice before clearing them away.

Instead of raking my leaves into piles and tossing them in the garden trash, Craig Wilson, co-founder and garden expert at Gardeners Dream, shares how to reuse them to prevent weeds.

A free weed suppressant

Rather than discarding fallen leaves, Wilson recommends shredding them into a natural mulch to place around plants to suppress weeds.

So what's the best way to shred leaves? Wilson explains, “Allow dry leaves to build up, then run over them with a lawnmower to shred them into smaller pieces.

I tend to place leaves on my beds without shredding them first, so I asked Wilson why he recommends breaking them down.

“Shredding them first helps the leaves break down more easily and reduces the risk of whole leaves forming a thick, compacted layer,” he explains.

And he adds, “The smaller pieces are easier to spread around flower beds and established plants and will generally break down more readily than whole leaves.”

Top tip

If you shred leaves with a lawnmower, make sure you’ve left them to dry out before mowing over them—it will help you cut through them effectively.

Leaves are much more than a weed suppressant

Beyond forming a layer to suppress weeds, Wilson also shares how fallen leaves can boost your soil. He explains they “help to retain moisture and regulate an appropriate temperature for the season.”

So instead of thinking of fallen leaves as garden waste, he says gardeners should see them as a free resource they can return to the soil.

3 mistakes to avoid with fallen leaves

1. Don't leave thick layers on your lawn

While shredded leaves can benefit flower beds, don’t let whole, wet leaves sit heavily on your lawn.

Wilson says, “A thick covering can block light and air from reaching the grass, so rake or remove them regularly.”

Apart from blocking photosynthesis and discouraging lush green grass, heavy layers of leaves trap moisture, encouraging snow mold and root rot. What’s more, a lack of oxygen and nutrients weakens the roots, and your lawn may start to turn yellow, with bare patches appearing. A damaged lawn also takes longer to recover when the warm weather returns.

2. Not removing diseased leaves

Wilson warns that you shouldn’t put every fallen leaf back into the garden. “If leaves are showing obvious signs of disease, it is better to remove and dispose of them appropriately rather than spreading them around your flower beds.”

Removing diseased leaves can help reduce the risk of carrying problems into the following growing season.

3. Being too tidy

I’m a tidy gardener, but Wilson warns against being too precise with your yard in fall. “It’s tempting to completely clear the garden before winter, but you don't need to remove every piece of natural debris. In suitable areas, leaving some leaves, stems and other plant material undisturbed can provide shelter for wildlife over the colder months.”

He says the key is to be selective with how much you tidy, “Keep your lawns and paths clear and make use of healthy leaves as mulch, and leave suitable, less-formal areas a little more natural to create that magical fall feeling.”

More from Tom's Guide

• 3 essential fall jobs to protect young trees before the first cold snap
• Why you can’t ignore your lawn in October: 7 tasks to complete this month
• Before your lawn goes dormant, do this 15-minute job for thicker grass next spring

When it comes to gardening tool manufacturers, Ego Power+ is one of the most trusted brands in the business. The company produces tough, durable gear that makes light work of gardening.

In this article I've combed the Prime Big Deal Day sales to find the best Ego Power+ deals. There are lots to choose from here, including feature-packed electric lawn mowers, chainsaws and even pressure washers. As we move deeper into fall it's a good time to get out there and tame your garden or outdoor space.

As ever, these deals won't last forever, so if you spot something that you like here, make sure to grab it while you can and save yourself some cash!

While mature trees easily weather winter storms, young trees with undeveloped root systems are incredibly vulnerable to freezing temperatures and drying winds. Failing to prepare them before the ground freezes can lead to severe frost damage, root desiccation, or bark girdling that permanently kills the tree.

Proactive winterization doesn't require complex landscaping — just three deliberate fall steps focused on hydration, insulation, and physical defense before the first cold snap hits.

How to winterize young trees

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Fall is definitely underway, and the changing colors have to be everyone's favorite marker of the season. Crisp brown leaves are beginning to drift down from the trees on my street, and yesterday two greedy pigeons almost got into a fight over the juicy orange berries on my pyracantha bush.

So the season is ripe for a fall-themed picture quiz, featuring 10 of the most spectacular trees, plants and flowers of the season. How many can you name from the photos? If you can score 10/10, you have my hearty permission to go on a gardening spending spree to celebrate!

How did you do? Too hard? Too easy? Got too lost in the amazing photos? Let us know what you think in the comments below. I love to hear from you and welcome all constructive feedback. And as a keen gardener who needs no encouragement to buy more plants, I'd also love to hear your favorite fall flower. Mine have to be dahlias.

If you enjoyed this quiz, then check out our other puzzles and quizzes. And don't forget to register to save your score, reveal hints for any clues you're not sure of (though I'm sure you won't need that) and secure your spot on the competitive Tom's Guide leaderboard.

Also visit our Polls page to have your say on all manner of topics, from workout kit to the latest Apple releases. Your answers may even be featured in a Readers Say article.

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Fall is officially here, and upcoming heavy rain and gusty winds can often take their toll on our tidy yards. This is especially true if you’re growing beautiful flowers and plants or have a tasty vegetable garden.

Luckily, there are a few essential tasks you can do right now to prepare your yard for harsh weather. By acting fast, you can protect plants from unexpected early frosts and also protect your yard from the risk of weather damage.

Since October is a time of transition, taking these simple, expert-approved tips will help you prepare for shifting weather ahead of time.

Here are the tasks you need to do right now that can make all the difference this season.

Rake fallen leaves

If, like me, you’ve already spotted fallen leaves piling up in your yard or around plants. The first task is to rake these up immediately and add them to your compost heap.

“You’ll likely start to see fallen leaves gathering in your garden or in other areas of your property,” states Craig Wilson, Co-founder and in-house gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

“Rake these up and store them in a compost bin. You can then use the leaf mould as mulch to insulate borders.”

In addition, the task of insulating your borders now will protect the plant roots from unexpected early frost before winter arrives.

“Once you have cleaned up and tidied your borders, you’ll want to think about getting them insulated before the first frost sets in. Use bark, manure or leaf mould to spread across the top of the soil to help insulate root systems.”

For more tips on what to do with your leaves, check out 7 ways to use fallen leaves in your garden.

Make sure storage is watertight

Torrential rain and fierce winds have already swept over the East Coast this weekend causing power outages, significant flooding and damaging winds.

Before you have to deal with serious damage (or expensive repairs), ensure that your outdoor storage is all watertight to avoid the risk of leaks seeping in and potential flooding.

“As rainfall increases, you’ll want to ensure that any storage, such as your shed, is fully waterproof to avoid any damage to tools and furniture you might be storing in there over the winter,” adds Wilson.

And the last thing you need is a shed full of tools made rusty, or even destroyed, from water damage.

For top tips, check out how to waterproof your shed — expert tips for winter protection.

Move tomato plants indoors and raise harvest

If you’re growing tomatoes or other edibles in pots outdoors, now is the best time to move plants indoors. This is especially important if you want to protect your harvest before the first frost.

“As the temperatures start to drop, it is time to move any tomato and pepper plants indoors to ripen,” states Wilson.

What’s more, if you’re planning some pumpkin treats just in time for Halloween season, be sure to raise pumpkins and harvest them off the ground.

“If you're hoping to harvest some pumpkins for Halloween carving or even autumn decor, make sure to get them raised off the ground and onto bricks or wood.

"This will keep them dry, which will decrease the chances of rot, and will also allow them to get some additional sunlight, which will help to firm up the skin.”

“You’ll also need to keep an eye on the weather forecast. Pumpkins go soft quickly when left outside in frosty weather, so ensure that if frost is due, you harvest your pumpkins beforehand.”

And if you’re worried about pests attacking your pumpkins, I've just discovered the easiest way to stop your pumpkins from rotting.

Your lawn will also benefit from some maintenance in October, here are 7 lawn care tasks to complete this month. Also, don’t wait until spring; here are 3 plants to give your yard an instant fall vibe.

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Ask around any plot come autumn, and you'll find two types of growers: those harvesting bowls of sweet red fruit, and those staring at vines heavy with stubbornly green tomatoes as the first frost looms. If you belong to the second group, don't panic.

Many assume late-season tomatoes just need more sunshine or extra time. In reality, tomato ripening is controlled by a specific biological trigger — and with one simple pruning technique, you can trick the plant into turning those green fruits bright red before cold weather shuts everything down.

Why aren't my tomatoes turning red?

To understand why tomatoes refuse to turn red early fall, you have to look at the pigments inside the fruit. Tomatoes rely on two primary compounds for color: carotene, which creates yellow and orange tones, and lycopene, which provides that rich, classic red.

The production of lycopene relies heavily on ambient temperature. Tomato plants actively synthesize lycopene within a specific thermal window — ideally between 68°F and 77°F (20°C to 25°C).

When temperatures climb above 85°F (29°C) during late-summer heatwaves, or dip below 55°F (13°C) as autumn nights cool down, lycopene production halts entirely.

The plant then enters a state of pigment paralysis. The fruit is mature, but the chemical switch required to turn it red is locked. Sunlight actually has very little to do with this phase; heat and internal plant hormones drive the entire process.

The 3-minute pruning fix to force ripening

When fall temperatures drop, force your plant into emergency survival mode to redirect its energy into existing fruit. Start by snipping off the main growing tip at the top of the plant to stop vertical growth.

Next, strip away all open flowers, tiny buds, and marble-sized fruit, as these only drain valuable sugars. Finally, sink a trowel into the soil six inches from the main stem on two sides to sever a few outer roots. This controlled stress triggers a surge of ethylene, forcing full-sized green tomatoes to turn red rapidly.

When to bring green tomatoes indoors

Keep fruit on the vine as long as nighttime lows stay above 50°F (10°C) for the best flavor, using frost cloth to protect against brief cold snaps. Once nights drop below 50°F or a hard frost looms, harvest all full-sized fruit immediately.

Skip the sunny windowsill as direct light bakes the skin and rots the fruit. Instead, place tomatoes in a single layer inside a cardboard box in a warm, dark room, and throw in a ripe banana or apple to concentrate ethylene gas and speed up ripening within a week or two.

More from Tom's Guide

• Are your tomatoes in crisis? Here's how baking soda and vinegar can save your crop
• Why are my tomato plant leaves turning yellow? 5 steps to save your harvest
• The timeless gardening wisdom your grandparents swore by — and why it still works today

Fall may be officially here, but that doesn’t mean your lawn care duties need to take a back seat. There are a few key things we need to do to protect our grass and keep it healthy and lush year-round.

A lawn care expert reveals the early signs of a critical infestation to look out for and how to deal with this invasive pest — leatherjackets.

This is because September marks the peak egg-laying season for crane flies, which eventually hatch into leatherjackets — which are every gardener’s nightmare.

Not only do these destructive pests thrive by feeding on grass roots and plants, but they can also leave your once-pristine lawn severely damaged.

“Right now, those eggs are just sitting below the surface, waiting for cold and wet conditions to hatch into leatherjackets,” states Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“Although small, these grubs can be a nightmare for your lawn. An infestation can undo all the hard work you’ve put in and leave you with nothing.”

Luckily, there is one task you can do in September to prevent a ‘nightmare’ infestation right now. Here’s how to tackle this issue.

What are leatherjackets and what to look out for?

While the name doesn’t sound like a destructive garden pest, what exactly are leatherjackets (also known as lawn grubs)?

Essentially, these are adult crane flies that lay eggs in the lawn from late summer to October.

Once these eggs hatch into leatherjackets, they live just beneath the soil surface and feed on grass roots once colder weather sets in.

“These pests are legless grubs with tough, leathery skin, typically grey or brown in colour, and can grow up to 3cm in length,” adds Davis. “They thrive by eating the roots of grass and plants, killing their food source as they go. Once eggs hatch, leatherjackets spend the colder months feeding underground before the damage becomes visible in early spring.”

Since these destructive pests live under the soil, we won’t notice the problem until months later. Key warning signs to look out for include grass turning yellow or noticeable patches on the lawn.

While there is no way to stop crane flies from laying their eggs, you can prevent the damage once eggs hatch.

Aerate your lawn to prevent leatherjackets

One top tip is to address poor drainage in your garden by aerating your lawn.

Not only does this avoid waterlogging, but promotes healthy airflow and helps to deliver essential nutrients directly into the ground.

“Lawns with poor drainage create a perfect environment for leatherjackets to thrive, so addressing that now can prevent an infestation taking hold,” advises Davis.

“Aerating your lawn can help improve drainage. To do this, simply create holes in the turf to allow it to breathe and encourage water to disperse.”

Also, heavily shaded gardens can create the perfect environment for leatherjackets. Another tip is to prune overgrown or thick tree branches and clear fallen leaves or any other debris on the lawn.

“Removing thick branches of overhanging trees and bushes can help more sunlight reach the turf,” Davis advises. “Some soils are better than others for drainage. For example, nutrient-dense clay soils can make gardens more prone to flooding.

“And if you often see water pooling in your garden, investigate the type of soil so you know how to nurture the lawn correctly.”

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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• Can you cut wet grass? Here's how it could affect your lawn, and your mower

Spotted spongy green growth across your patio or driveway recently? You’ll want to get rid of moss quickly. And while moss might be welcome in certain parts of your yard (think Japanese garden), for the most part, it can look unsightly on our patio. Plus, it's a nuisance to remove from concrete or banish completely — especially during fall.

Typically, moss thrives in damp or humid conditions — and porous concrete is the perfect environment as it holds water easily. In addition, concrete’s texture has microscopic pores, pits, and cracks, which makes it easy for spores to penetrate and grow in these rough spots.

And while you could reach for chemical-laden treatments or blast it away with a powerful pressure washer, I’ve just discovered a common household cleaning staple that does the trick — and no, it isn’t white vinegar.

Unlike white vinegar, which is great for killing moss but is a longer process, this cleaning solution can get to work in just minutes. Best of all, we all have this product in our cleaning caddy. So why is bleach so handy?

How to banish moss with bleach

We often use bleach for killing germs, disinfecting surfaces, and getting rid of yellow stains. However, it turns out that this versatile cleaner can instantly banish moss from concrete too.

Even better, it acts fast to tackle moss in just five minutes, and the results are known to last longer in comparison to traditional vinegar methods.

So what’s the best way to use bleach on concrete patios or paths? First, sweep away any debris or leaves on the concrete surface with a bristle broom/brush before applying your treatment.

Next, experts recommend diluting one part household bleach with four to ten parts water (depending on how thick the moss is) in a pump sprayer or bucket.

Then, directly spray or pour the mixture evenly over the moss-covered concrete, before letting it sit for about 15 minutes.

Once the moss turns brown or white, simply use your stiff-bristled broom or deck brush to scrub away the dead moss, and rinse off the residue/area completely with water until clean.

What NOT to do when using bleach

Since bleach has the power to kill moss, it’s important not to spray any nearby plants or foliage. If you do, however, experts recommend watering them before wrapping them in plastic wrap to protect them from damage.

Additionally, do NOT leave bleach on the concrete surface for more than around 15 minutes, or else it may cause discoloration to the pavers. Bear in mind that bleach is highly toxic, so take precautions when using it and keep it away from children or pets. And use gloves when handling bleach if possible.

So, if you’re struggling to banish pesky moss fast, this clever tip might be sitting right inside your cleaning caddy.

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
• How to sharpen a lawn mower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

Fall has arrived, making September and November the perfect window for mulching flower beds to protect plants before the cooler temperatures set in.

As a thin layer of organic matter on the surface, a natural mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, introduces nutrients as it breaks down, and protects from frost when the temperature drops. Although mulching your yard seems easy enough, there’s one common problem many gardeners face afterwards that ruins their hard efforts.

Typically, after a week, unwanted grass blades begin creeping back through your bed cover until the area starts looking untidy again. And while a traditional solution would be to lay down landscaping fabric, this can often make planting new crops tricky and difficult to remove in the long run.

I’ve recently discovered a hassle-free tip to keep unwanted grass out of mulch beds. Not only does this solution work in just one hour, but it’s completely family and pet-friendly without harming nearby plants.

Use a targeted grass and weed killer to protect your beds

A quick trick is to use a grass and weed killer after mulching — but this will only work on young, newly sprouted grass blades coming through the mulch.

Once grass has matured, the spray may not be as effective at getting to work on thick grass — which might benefit from manual tools.

There are several sprays available in your gardening centers or online such as this Spruce Weed & Grass Killer for $35 on Amazon.

This spray kit is formulated from water, essential oils, and a surfactant, and can treat up to 400 weeds. Better still, it promises to work in just an hour, and the reusable bottle means you can simply buy refills instead of a new kit.

Additionally, gardening experts suggest pruning nearby foliage before applying such treatments. Trimming these surrounding stems beforehand allows for a much clearer path to target rogue shoots at their base.

Lastly, it helps to identify the exact location where grass blades keep growing, so you can apply a targeted treatment — ensuring stray growth stays out of your beds for good.

Bear in mind that this solution will only prevent the growth of young weeds and won’t tackle mature ones. If that’s the case, you’ll need to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

Of course, if you don’t want to rely on chemicals to get rid of grass and weeds in your yard, you can check out these 7 ways to kill weeds naturally. Or perhaps you might have this 39-cent weed killer alternative hiding in your laundry cupboard?

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If there is one gardening task that always feels like a chore, it’s dealing with relentless weeds.

No matter where you look — from the lush grass to the gravel paths, these just seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while there are various weed-killing remedies, I’ve always relied on my handy string trimmer to quickly rip away visible weeds before tackling the taproots.

However, it turns out that I could be making my weed problem worse — but only if used at the wrong time.

According to experts, using your string trimmer incorrectly might multiply those pesky weeds, leaving you with even more to clear. This is because mature weeds can spread themselves (through their seeds), depending on the species you’re up against.

So essentially, running your trimmer over mature, seed-filled weed heads will risk scattering them across your entire yard, and doubling your chore.

Luckily, there is a way to use your trimmer without making your weed problem worse. Here’s why.

Be sure to use your strimmer before weeds produce seeds

Experts agree that the least risky time to use it is before the weeds in your yard have full seeds.

In addition to preventing seeds from scattering across your yard, tackling young weeds early will reduce the chance of persistent garden invaders returning and ruining it.

Perhaps one caveat is that not all weeds are made to be equal, which can be problematic if you don’t know exactly which type of weed you’re dealing with.

Typically, summer annual varieties like crabgrass usually produce seeds mid-to-late season. While winter annuals such as shepherd's purse release seed heads in early summer — which will leave you tackling these invaders straight through spring.

So what’s the best course of action if you don’t know which specific weeds are taking over your yard? Experts advise you to simply use your trimmer regularly throughout the spring and summer to prevent seeds from developing and spreading.

Alternatively, if you miss that crucial window, experts suggest carefully slipping a bag right over mature seed heads before pulling them out by hand.

Of course, for true removal of stubborn weeds, you’ll have to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf. “This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels.

So before powering up your go-to string trimmer to slice through lawn weeds, ensure you tackle them before seed production. The last thing you need is extra yard work later on.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
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Two years ago I wrote about how to create a ‘bulb lasagna’, and it had nothing to do with the popular Italian baked pasta dish. Instead of layering pasta and sauce into a dish, the concept was to layer different-sized bulbs at different levels in the soil to create a display of varied heights and colors.

Now, as we move into fall once more and bulb-planting is on every gardener’s to-do list, I want to share with you another method of planting bulbs, and it's called 'bouquet-style' planting.

What does ‘bouquet-style’ planting involve?

The new approach to bulb planting, the ’bouquet-style’ method, is far removed from traditional planting techniques, such as spacing bulbs in neat rows.

Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist at Flowerbulb, says, “The fresh take on a classic gardening technique is gaining popularity for its ability to deliver bold, beautiful results with minimal effort.”

And she explains that this approach transforms traditional bulb planting into a more artistic, impactful experience that both novice and experienced gardeners can achieve.

“Bouquet-style planting involves placing five to seven flower bulbs — such as tulips, daffodils, or hyacinths — in a single, wide, deep planting hole, rather than spacing them out in rows,” Montgomery explains.

Instead of a uniform row, the result is a dense cluster of blooms that emerge together, creating the appearance of a floral bouquet in your garden.

She also adds that the method is referred to as planting in “drifts” or “clumps”, and that it mimics how flowers naturally grow in the wild. What you get is a softer, more organic aesthetic.

Easy planting

Beyond the stunning effect that bouquet-style planting delivers, it’s also a practical solution for those gardeners looking for a high-end look with very little effort. Concentrating the bulbs in one area takes the guesswork out of spacing and simplifies planting.

Placing bulbs close is a particular benefit in a small garden, where vibrant pops of color can make a real impact in compact spaces. “Instead of scattered blooms, gardeners are rewarded with a concentrated burst of color that feels intentional and abundant," says Montgomery.

What's more, because the planting method involves grouping bulbs together, the chances of success are high, making it an attractive introduction to bulb planting for novice gardeners.

How to plant bulbs the 'bouquet-style' way

For planting tulips, Jenny San Filippo, blogger at Holland Bulb Farms, suggests digging a hole approximately 10-12 inches across and 6-8 inches deep. Then place five to seven bulbs, pointed side up, in the hole before filling it with soil.

For best results, she suggests making the hole as flat as possible on the bottom, so that the bulbs are planted at the same depth.

Mix it up

The advantage of this planting method is that you don’t need to keep to the same bulbs. San Filippo shares in her blog that as long as you are working with bulbs of similar planting depth requirements — such as tulips and daffodils or grape hyacinth and scilla — you can feel free to mix them up within the same hole to achieve a longer bloom time.

What’s more, you’ll benefit from a wider variety of blooms in the same area without leaving space between them as you would in the row method.

Where to use the ‘bouquet-style’ method

The bouquet bulb planting method works perfectly in areas where you want to create a more natural, unstructured look. It can also be used to fill in gaps or used around existing plants and structures.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover this $28 gardening tool that makes planting bulbs a breeze
• And 7 best flowers to plant in the fall
• The September gardening hack that gets you free plants for life

Summer 2026 may be pretty much done and dusted, but if you have a garden or yard then it will still need maintaining as we move into autumn.

Amazon's Labor Day sale is in its final hours, but the online giant still has loads of great deals to choose from. For this article I've selected 12 offers on garden tools and accessories. There's everything from a push lawn mower and a rake to a cute birdhouse and a bonsai planter to choose from here.

So if you want to tend to your garden while saving a few bucks, take a look at the 12 hand-picked items below. But remember, the offers end soon, so grab these deals while they're hot!

Now that the heatwave is over and the new season begins — our grass might be looking a little worse for wear. This is especially the case if you’ve ended up with a patchy brown lawn that needs some TLC.

What’s more, you’ll want lush, healthy grass all year round by maintaining a good lawn care routine. So how can you revive your patchy lawn after the drought?

Luckily, a lawn expert has revealed that September is the ideal time to begin sowing new seeds — but this only works if you do one vital task before you start. In fact, it’s one of the simplest things that we often forget to do and will make all the difference to the results of our hard efforts.

So, before you start sprinkling your bag of grass seeds, don’t forget to do this one crucial check first.

Check the weather forecast

Since fall weather is so unpredictable, experts suggest you always check your local forecast before seeding, as these conditions can easily ruin germination.

“September is the best time to sow new grass seed, but it’s so important to check the forecast, identifying the temperature and rainfall trends,” advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

“The new seeds will need around two weeks of stable conditions to germinate and establish their first roots; severe weather changes can interrupt the process and leave seeds vulnerable.”

Additionally, you’ll need to get the right balance and ensure the conditions are not too dry or too cold. Both of which can stall the development of your grass seeds, leading to a costly failure where they simply die.

“It only takes a minute, but missing this step could result in a whole bag of seed being wasted,” adds McIIroy. “The soil needs to remain 50°F or above, and you need some rainfall, any frosty nights could interrupt germination.

“If drought conditions continue, grass seed will shrivel and die before it has a chance to germinate. But equally, too much rain can waterlog soil and drown seeds. Not checking the forecast can be a costly mistake, especially when starting a new lawn from scratch.”

However, a little patience will pay off. And he suggests it’s far better to hold out for the ideal environment rather than rushing and wasting your grass seed. Plus, after a parched summer, your lawn must be truly ready for overseeding.

Top tips before seeding your lawn in September

First, you’ll need to remove any debris, tree branches, or dead vegetation to give your new grass the best starting chance.

Additionally, if you find that your grass is parched, you’ll need to know how to aerate your lawn to loosen the soil and allow air and all the nutrients it needs to thrive.

“The new seeds will need good seed-to-soil contact, and if your turf is dry and compacted, you need to scarify and aerate to loosen the soil, ensuring nutrients, air and water can flow easily through the turf,” advises McIlroy.

“Applying a layer of high-quality topsoil also provides an environment for new seeds to thrive in, and a fertiliser can also provide a nutrient boost.”

Another top tip is to get a starter fertilizer that can help to strengthen the young roots as they grow. “Starter fertilisers differ from regular lawn feeds,” McIIroy adds.

“They’re formulated with extra phosphorus to help young roots develop. When you’re sowing new seed, that early root growth is more important than the colour and length on top.

“While September is usually the best time to sow, but it can extend into October if the temperatures allow.”

For more tips and tricks, check out our ultimate lawn care guide for healthy, lush grass. Apart from sowing seed, September is also the ideal month to carry out other key lawn maintenance.

Lawncare essentials we love

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As late summer transitions into autumn, North America’s smallest birds begin preparing for one of the most grueling journeys in the animal kingdom.

Before flying south to their wintering grounds in Mexico and Central America, many hummingbirds must fuel up for non-stop flights that, for some species, include a harrowing five-hundred-mile stretch across open water.

While natural environmental cues like decreasing daylight hours signal when it is time for them to depart, backyard bird feeders provide a crucial, high-energy pit stop along their migration highway.

The physics of migration

Understanding the extreme physical demands of migration highlights why suburban backyards matter so much in the fall.

In the weeks leading up to departure, hummingbirds enter a state of extreme hyperphagia, eating constantly to gain twenty-five to forty percent of their body weight in fat store reserves. This rapid fat gain is essential because their tiny bodies burn energy at an astounding rate.

During migration flight, a hummingbird's heart beats up to twelve hundred times per minute while its wings flap anywhere from fifteen to eighty times every second.

Migration occurs in staggered waves, starting with adult males in late summer, followed by females, and finally young birds making the journey for the very first time well into fall.

How to help hummingbirds prepare for migration

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Grab your gardening gloves and make the most of September, as according to one plant expert, this is the best month to plant without spending a dime.

Gardening can be an expensive hobby if you rely on nursery plants to build your beds. But if you’re clever and don't mind a little work, you can make the most of what you’ve already got.

Here, Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor to Platinum Hot Tubs, explains how you can expand your planting for free.

September is the perfect time to divide and multiply

With the soil still warm from summer and temperatures beginning to cool, September is an ideal time to divide many established perennials — those plants that come up year after year.

“Dividing perennials is one of my favorite gardening jobs because you’re essentially getting free plants while also improving the health of the original one,” says Mabey. “This gives newly divided plants an opportunity to establish their roots before winter arrives, helping them get off to a strong start the following spring.”

The process can also help you tidy up your garden while encouraging healthy growth. He explains, “Over time, established clumps can become overcrowded, which can affect their vigor and flowering. Dividing them gives each section more room to grow, and the added bonus is that you can fill gaps elsewhere in the garden or give the extra plants away.”

Which perennials can you divide in September?

The best candidates to divide in September are spring- and summer-blooming perennials. Peonies, hostas, daylilies, and bearded irises are all worth dividing, as well as coneflowers and black-eyed Susans, Shasta daisies and yarrow.

However, not all perennials should be divided, as some have deep taproots, single woody bases or fragile root systems that cannot withstand the stress.

For instance, false indigo and globe thistle are two taprooted plants that shouldn’t be divided, while lavender and Russian sage have woody stems that may fail to recover, and lupines and foxgloves are considered too delicate.

How to divide garden plants

Dividing your perennials will allow you to rejuvenate overcrowded plants while creating new ones for free — all within your own backyard.

Here are the five steps Mabey recommends.

1. Dig up the entire clump

Carefully lift the established plant from the ground, using a spade or fork, taking care to retain as much of the root system as possible. You can then remove any loose dirt around the roots.

Top tip

To keep your plants in optimal health, avoid dividing them on a sunny day when they are likely to dry out between being transplanted. A few days of showers ahead will also help keep them moist while they settle in.

2. Split the plant into sections

For tough or larger clumps, Mabey suggests using a sharp garden spade to slice through the plant. Alternatively, he suggests placing two garden forks back-to-back in the center of the clump and gently prying the sections apart.

3. Take a gentler approach with delicate plants

Some perennials need a gentler approach. Instead of using a garden spade or fork, Mabey says he often uses a pruning saw or bread knife to divide plants such as hostas.

Rather than getting your bread knife covered in soil, I’d suggest trying a hori hori knife, like the Nisaku’s Original Hori Hori Knife, $22 at Amazon.

4. Replant each section

Once you’ve divided your plant, keep each section shaded and moist until they are replanted. You can then place them in prepared soil, with enough surrounding space to grow and establish.

Top tip

Make sure you complete this step at least 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost — particularly important in colder northern USDA growing zones — as it will allow the roots to establish in good time.

5. Water thoroughly

Give newly divided plants a generous watering to help the roots settle into their new position. Keep them moist rather than soggy, while the developing roots establish in the soil.

The amount of supplementary water needed will depend on rainfall, temperature, wind and soil conditions, with the Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment at the University of Massachusetts Amherst advising to maintain weekly watering until the ground freezes.

Don't forget about the seeds

Dividing perennials isn’t the only way gardeners can expand their collection for free. Mabey says, “September is also a great time to start saving seeds from flowers that are beginning to fade. Instead of deadheading every spent bloom, leave a few healthy flowers to develop seed heads.”

And he adds that saving your own seeds is incredibly rewarding and means you can continue growing plants you already know perform well in your garden.

“Gardening doesn’t always have to be expensive. Sometimes the best way to get more plants is simply to make the most of the ones already growing in your garden,” he adds.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 plants to put in your yard in September for vibrant fall colors
• 7 vegetable seeds to sow in September for bountiful fall harvests
• The 7 best plants for neat yet low-maintenance hedges

Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher or simply enjoy the beauty of colorful hummingbirds in your backyard, you might benefit from having a nest to make your garden more inviting.

And since I love nothing more than watching beautiful birds hovering around, I’ve just found the perfect hummingbird house for my garden (who knew?).

The Hummingbird House at Amazon consists of three wooden nesting spots designed to accommodate their tiny 4-inch body size. It also provides shelter and warmth, and a groove on top offers food, making it the ideal home.

Not only can they live safely inside, away from predators, but these hummingbird nests will instantly spruce up your yard.

Here’s why I’ll be buying a few to create a hummingbird haven.

How to use a hummingbird house

Perhaps what caught my attention was just how beautiful these wooden nests look. And unlike traditional boxy bird feeders, they won’t look out of place with my garden style. Handcrafted from pine wood, these nests also have a natural aroma that’s known to entice more hummingbirds into your outdoor space — even better.

You simply hang these nests on a sturdy pole or tree and watch the hummingbirds flock to their resting spots. I also love the way it’s designed with a neat food storage and feeder at the top of the ‘house’ and a drainage hole at the bottom to ensure it’s kept clean.

Best of all, hummingbirds will love their homes, as it will provide a cozy and safe haven all year round!

Things not to feed hummingbirds

Similar to knowing how to feed birds in winter, it’s useful to know the right types of food to give to hummingbirds. These would need to be suited to their species, offering the nutritional value that they need.

Bread — While it’s tempting to feed scraps, bread has no nutritional value for birds and will only fill up their stomachs. This will prevent them from eating sufficient seeds and grains with more nutritional benefits.

Meat — Never add raw meat to the feeder as this can attract unwanted guests like rodents, cats or foxes. Plus, meat will spoil very quickly and can be fatal to birds.

Salt — Too much salt is toxic for birds and can affect their nervous system. This includes salted nuts or other heavily salted foodstuffs.

Household food scraps — These won’t be appealing to birds and will only attract rodents or foxes to the feeder. Plus, any food cooked in oil or garlic will be harmful to birds.

It's advisable to stick with a suitable bird food mix, or you could try this simple nectar recipe, which will attract hummingbirds to your yard.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

It’s been a rough summer on our yards. Extended heatwaves and dry spells have left many gardens looking parched and depleted, and I’ve missed the abundance of color that I‘ve come to expect during peak season.

If the summer scorcher left you feeling depondent, don’t despair; fall offers a fresh start. September is the ideal time to rest, enrich your soil and get new plants in the ground. And with cooler temperatures on the horizon, your yard will soon be full of golden autumnal color.

Here are the top 5 plants I recommend adding to your yard this September for a rich kaleidoscope of fall hues.

1. Rudbeckia

Rudbeckias — commonly known as black-eyed Susans — bring an instant splash of bright color to a fall yard. Their golden petals and bold centers radiate a sunny disposition, making them a standout choice for fall color. Beyond their cheerful appearance, rudbeckias are low-maintenance plants and magnets for pollinators, too.

How to plant

Position in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, into well-draining soil. To extend the flowering period, deadhead the plants by pinching off the blooms at the base of the stem, or cut them back after they flower to encourage a second surge.

Rudbeckias are suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

2. Sedum

Sedums are a winner in the late summer and early fall, and if your garden has experienced a tough summer season of hot, dry weather, they are a firm survivor. The flowers are loved by bees and butterflies, and the beautiful seed heads remain stunning into winter.

How to plant

Choose a sunny spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day. If your soil is poor at draining, loosen the soil before planting and add sand, grit or perlite to encourage better drainage. Sedums shouldn’t need additional water, as their fleshy leaves store water, making them perfect for dry regions.

Sedums do well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

3. Heuchera

Heucheras are grown for their foliage, rather than their flowers, and they make a stunning statement at the front of a border. I love the bright hues of lime green heuchera, which won’t fail to add a vibrant pop of color to your fall garden, but if you prefer more rustic tones, you can opt for burgundy or russet foliage.

How to plant

Place the plant in rich, well-drained soil in a spot that receives 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, if you have heavy clay soil, amend it to improve drainage before planting. If planting multiples, place 1-2 feet apart.

Heucheras perform well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but do check the variety.

4. Japanese anemone

Japanese anemones have elegant flowers that will add a light touch and graceful movement to any garden. They will brighten any shady corner with their stunning blooms and create a striking visual contrast when planted with grasses. Even better, for low-maintenance gardeners, their sturdy stems rarely need staking, and they are generally free of pests and diseases. Plus, their late-season blooms provide a feast for pollinators.

How to plant

Plant in full sun to partial shade, and protect the foliage and blooms from afternoon sun in hot climates. Japanese anemones thrive in moist, fertile, well-draining soil, but don’t like soils that remain cold and wet during winter. The roots will benefit from a layer of mulch in late fall to protect them from frost.

Japanese anemones do well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but check your variety before planting.

5. Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses introduce texture and movement, catching the breeze, to give your garden a natural, relaxed feel. Their delicate seed heads add visual interest heading into late fall and winter, while their fine foliage softens hard landscaping and bold planting.

While many ornamental grasses turn golden brown in the fall, Pink Muhly Grass explodes into a cloudy haze of cotton-candy pink. For something a little more understated, you might prefer Japanese Forest Grass, with golden foliage that turns to copper and orange.

How to plant

Select a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day and well-draining soil — waterlogged earth will cause their roots to rot. Keep in mind that light requirements vary by species; for instance, Japanese Forest Grass prefers shade, so always check the plant label first.

Guidelines vary depending on which species and variety you pick, but most ornamental grasses will thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3 through to 9.

September is also the perfect time to divide perennials — giving you extra plants for free. And don't forget that September is a key month in the lawn care calendar.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 vegetable seeds to sow in September for bountiful fall harvests
• 7 best flowers to plant in September — advice from garden experts
• The 7 best plants for neat yet low-maintenance hedges

The countdown to Father's Day 2026 is officially on, with just 9 days to go until Sunday, September 6 in Australia.

With Aussie spring just around the corner, if your dad loves his garden or going camping, then Father's Day is a great time to get him some new outdoorsy gear. Whether he's an avid gardener, outdoor chef or just a guy who enjoys sitting out in his yard in the sunshine, I've sorted 12 of the best outdoor Father's Day gifts below.

All of these items come with 4-star reviews on Amazon, and same-day or fast delivery, so your gift will arrive perfectly on (or before) the big day. So scroll on to find the best Father's Day gardening and outdoor gifts for dad this year.

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Hummingbirds are among the most popular wildlife species that visit our yards; they are beautiful. That’s why I wanted to discover if hummingbirds will keep coming back to the same spot year after year, and if so, how we can make their survival easier.

I posed the question to Bob Mulvihill, lead ornithologist at the National Aviary, to learn more about hummingbirds’ behavior.

Hummingbird's are creatures of habit

“Like many migratory birds, hummingbirds navigate to the same spots each year for breeding and wintering,” explains Mulvihill.

“Banding studies prove that some hummingbirds even find their way to the same rest spot along the migratory route.”

And it turns out that hummingbirds have excellent spatial memories, which is why they can return year after year.

For us, this means that if you welcomed hummingbirds into your backyard last year, it’s highly likely that the same birds will appear this year. Hummingbirds are creatures of habit.

“People often report seeing hummingbirds in early spring hovering at the exact spot where the hummingbird feeder hung the year before,” says Mulvihill.

So what happens if you change your habits? Fortunately, it won’t throw the birds off course.

Mulvihill explains that if you decide to move your hummingbird feeder, or even if a person has moved on and there’s no longer a feeder around, it won’t cause much distress.

Hummingbirds find feeders easy to spot.

It seems that if you do move your feeder to another place in your backyard, your regular visitors will still be able to find it. The bright color makes it easy to identify.

Mulvihill explains, “Because the color red is so attention-getting — especially against a spring or summer green background — hummingbirds have an easy time finding feeders and flowers wherever they may be, and wherever they may pop up tomorrow!”

3 ways to make life easier for hummingbirds

Although Mulvihill says hummingbirds won’t be put out if the previous hummingbird feeder they relied upon for nectar has been moved, there are steps you can take to improve the life and well-being of these tiny creatures.

1. Keep them fed and watered

“Hummingbirds will benefit greatly if everyone would provide flowers and clean feeders filled with fresh sugar and water from spring through to fall, and, if possible, a source of flowing or misting water for them, too,” he advises.

You can make your own hummingbird nectar using a simple water-and-sugar combo, mixing one part sugar with four parts water.

The nectar can be added to a hummingbird feeder, and if you want to catch them in action, you could invest in a smart hummingbird feeder. However, a standard red feeder with yellow nectar ports that replicate a flower is ideal.

Don’t forget about the power of plants. Aside from providing sugared water, hummingbirds will flock to your yard if it’s planted with nectar-rich flowers, like the cup and saucer vine.

Apart from providing calorie-rich nectar, hummingbirds will welcome a regular source of water. They particularly like misting devices, as traditional bird baths are too deep for their tiny frames. The fine spray will help them stay hydrated and act as a shower to keep their feathers clean and their bodies cool.

2. Avoid window collisions

Hummingbirds are frequent victims of bird-window collisions, so to help them spot a window before it’s too late, Mulvihull recommends making your window panes bird-safe.

One way to prevent hummingbirds from cascading into your windows is to add barriers or marks to your glazing. The International Hummingbird Society, suggests adding lines or shapes, which are at least 1/4inch wide in light or high-contrast colors. And it recommends spacing them no more than two inches apart horizontally or 4 inches apart vertically.

You might also want to try opaque window film, such as the Collidescape white bird film, $29 at Amazon.

Finding the ideal spot for your hummingbird feeders will also help. Mulvihull suggests positioning your feeder at least 25 feet away from any windows.

3. Be pet aware

Nesting season for hummingbirds, which varies by region, is a prime time for predators. So, if you own a pet, Mulvihull advises being extra vigilant during this time.

And he suggests keeping your cat restrained or indoors. Hummingbirds will avoid nesting in an area that’s patrolled by predators — and to them that includes your cat or dog.

Unlike other birds, hummingbirds won’t nest in birdhouses; instead, they build their nests in tree limbs and on other horizontal surfaces. The National Audubon Society suggests maintaining shrubbery and planting small deciduous trees in your backyard to provide hummingbirds with a safe nesting place.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

Fish owners, rejoice! That (rather pungent) tank clean you have to steel yourself for every so often can double up as a clever gardening hack. As rumour has it, fish tank water is a brilliant source of nutrients to pour over leafy green plants in your garden.

So, next time you're cleaning and removing water from your aquarium, be mindful of the fact that this stuff is essentially liquid gold for gardeners.

There are some dos and don'ts, of course, but the water from most freshwater fish tanks can be a great, mild, and natural fertilizer not just for your garden, but also for indoor plants such as herbs. Interested? Now considering buying some fish? Me too, actually. Here's what else to know...

How exactly can fish tank water help plants?

Here's the very simple reason why: old fish tank water contains fish faeces, which is mainly ammonia. This waste converts from ammonia into nitrite, all thanks to either the filter or gravel in the tank. And as we all know, nitrogen is a form of plant fertilizer. So, not only will this water hydrate your plants, but they'll get a much-needed fertilizer boost at the same time.

It goes without saying, but we'd only suggest giving this water to plants that are in need of fertilizer. Avoid pouring this water on plants that you've recently tended to — because excess nitrogen can harm plants, causing very rapid growth that may threaten the quality of your produce.

If your fish tank is placed rather close to the exit to your backyard, you're winning — this makes it a less stressful job of worrying about spilling this smelly water on your floors.

Better yet? This gardening hack doesn't just mean more water for your plants, but it means you're throwing away less water each time you clean your tank. Instead of throwing it down the drain, pour it into your watering can and make good use of it in your backyard.

Which plants to focus on the most when working with fish tank water? If we're thinking of the ones that will get the most benefit, then focus on herbs like basil, mint, parsley, coriander and rosemary. When it comes to vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, spinach, and cucumbers will love fish tank water. Your fruit plants needn't miss out either: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and citrus plants will all love this extra nitrogen boost.

Produce isn't the only thing that you can use this gardening hack for. If you have a rose bush or plant, then you're winning. The same goes for hydrangeas, lavender, marigolds, and geraniums.

Maybe now you can rethink the kids asking you for a pet once a week!

Final thoughts

It should be noted, though, that this isn't the rule with all fish tanks. Only freshwater ones. Saltwater aquariums don't follow the same rule, so we wouldn't use this for watering your plants since the salt makes it harder for the roots to absorb water.

Be mindful if you've recently added any chemicals or medication to your tank. If you have, check whether what you've added claims to be "plant safe". If you're still unsure, then it's best to avoid using it on your plants until you're sure it won't hurt them. Definitely avoid using the water if you've used any copper-containing treatments in your tank recently.

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It's officially de-weeding season. It's a job that nobody likes to do, but it's a necessity for a tidy backyard. Because there's no point in investing in high-quality patio furniture, choosing the perfect outdoor cushions, and even ensuring that you've got the best grill around, just to let your garden look untidy from weeds.

Take it from me and tackle them now before it's too late. Don't let them grow wild, as it makes the job twice as hard. You should see my front patio — untameable is an understatement, and I just keep putting it off because truly, I don't have the right gear to get it done fast.

That was until I spotted Martha Stewart's gardening line at QVC. Filled with pretty necessities for any gardener, the weeding tool is truly what my garden toolset had been missing.

It's not too large to store in my busy shed; it's easy to handle and best of all: it's super versatile. So much so that Martha herself owns several; she proudly claims.

So, what exactly is the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

You can find everything from patio furniture to gardening gloves and more in the Martha Stewart Outdoor Living section at QVC.

This cultivator tool is similar to most other handheld ones; however, its versatility makes it stand out and is the real reason Martha loves it so much.

Martha explains that its design originates from Japan and its unique shape allows it to not only dig into the ground, but it can also be used to scrape weeds. It has a sturdy wooden handle which makes it easy to grip tight, too, for when you're working with tough roots or extra dry soil.

Martha continues to add that it's her absolute "favourite hand tool of all", claiming that it's super versatile. "I have one of these in every garden bag," says Stewart to QVC.

How to use the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

Much like any other cultivator tool, this is recommended for use to dig weeds out of soil. Its sharp point allows it to pierce into the ground, whether hard or soft at the time, and to scoop out deep-set weeds with ease.

Thanks to this sharp edge, you can even use this tool between tight paving slabs. It also works wonders in loosening weeds, not only digging them out.

This tool is easy to use one-handed, meaning it doesn't require a lot of elbow work, while it makes a quick job of de-weeding a space.

Once you're finished, go ahead and turn it over to its flat edge and use this to scrape these weeds into a pile. Handy for moving debris across your patio and out of your way, plus it won't damage your floor or surface.

Another way to use it? For seeding! Reviewer Dorothea claims it "works great for weeding and making rows for seeds".

JSYK: It might be worth considering which is your dominant hand, as this tool will be more convenient to use if you are right-handed due to its design and shape.

Don't just take it from us — reviewers love this handy tool, too. "Since receiving this tool I have used it non stop when working in my yard. Works great at up rooting my weeds--worth every cent!", claims shopper FLNonny. Another happy reviewer, glassiegirl, adds, "Where has this been all my life??".

There's more where this de-weeder came from, too, as shopper KS Girl raves, "Best garden tool I own. I won’t buy from anyone else that sells garden tools. Please bring us more Martha!". Yes, you can also buy a Martha Stewart 4-piece Trowel Set from QVC, plus a 6-set of Gardening Gloves, and 3 Garden Soil Scoops.

Would you buy this de-weeding tool for yourself or a friend? It'd make the perfect gift for a budding gardener.

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Weeds are the bugbear of all gardeners, sprouting out wherever they see fit to invade our yards. And while many are beneficial to pollinators, when they rear their heads in our carefully curated gardens, they are usually unwelcome.

The current hot summer has decimated many of my regular ‘reliable’ plants, and I’ve also noticed that the heat, combined with the lack of rainfall, has reduced the number of weeds in my patch.

But according to one weed expert, I shouldn’t let this lead me into a false sense of security because there’s one clever weed that goes undetected in the heat and keeps active underground, while all is quiet above.

Japanese knotweed — the underground criminal

According to Jennifer Holmes, head of marketing and business development at Japanese Knotweed Ltd, homeowners shouldn’t assume that the hot weather has killed off Japanese knotweed — the invasive weed remains alive underground and will start to regrow once conditions improve.

While other plants struggle to survive due to a lack of water, Holmes explains that Japanese knotweed’s extensive underground rhizome system allows it to store energy and withstand harsh conditions. She warns that a seemingly dead patch could be hiding a bigger problem beneath the surface.

But why is it such a cause of concern? Helen Rolph, home insurance expert at Quotezone, says, "Japanese knotweed is a seriously invasive plant that can cause some real damage to homes and gardens, so it’s important people are aware of how to recognize it and what to do if it’s present on their property.”

“Climate change is forcing plants into a ‘survival of the fittest’ mode, explains Holmes. “While other plants will struggle in the drought due to a lack of water, Japanese knotweed carries on almost unfazed!”

And she adds this headstrong weed can survive both prolonged heatwaves and sub-zero temperatures.

She says many homeowners assume hot, dry weather will kill Japanese knotweed, but this is a common misconception. “Although the visible stems and leaves may show signs of stress — wilted leaves and stems — during periods of drought, the plant remains alive."

The plant’s extensive rhizome system conserves and stores energy, allowing it to pick up where it left off when conditions become more favorable.

Resilient non-native plants

Non-native plants such as Japanese knotweed are more resilient to heatwaves than native plants, so you may see knotweed becoming more prevalent as other plants die back completely.

So while you may think Japanese knotweed is no longer a threat, she warns homeowners to be vigilant.“Look out for reddish-purple shoots, bamboo-like stems, zig-zag patterned growth and shovel-shaped leaves,” and warns, “Japanese knotweed can spread rapidly because even small fragments of the plant’s underground rhizome system can develop into new growth.”

The problem with Japanese knotweed

Although Japanese knotweed does not directly kill other plants, Holmes warns that its aggressive growth can quickly dominate an area by blocking light and taking up space — making it difficult for surrounding vegetation to compete.

“We would urge homeowners not to cut, dig up or attempt to remove suspected Japanese knotweed themselves, as disturbing the plant can spread fragments and make the problem more difficult to manage,” she advises.

How to take control of Japanese knotweed

In the U.K., the plant is also deemed ‘controlled waste’, so a licensed contractor must carry out the disposal of knotweed materials and contaminated soils. It does not come under the same regulation in the U.S., although it is still considered a severe non-native invasive plant.

If you spot what looks like knotweed or any other suspect invasive plant in your garden, she suggests using the Japanese Knotweed’s free plant identifier tool to double-check before you take any further steps. And, of course, other plant identifier tools are available, too.

If you have a problem with Japanese knotweed, it shouldn’t be treated like a regular weed; pulling it up won’t stop it coming back. Check out Holmes' previous advice on how to remove Japanese knotweed to stop it from taking over your yard.

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I hate de-weeding. It's arguably the worst gardening job out there; in fact, I'd rather mow my lawn ten times over than de-weed my patio.

So, when I discovered this genius weed-killer hack and quickly realised I already had the one ingredient it required under my kitchen sink, I felt like I'd mastered the game.

Usually, I tackle my weeds with a mix of white vinegar and boiling water. Admittedly, this method works, but it takes a few tries. It's great because it's completely pet-safe, but weeds do return rather fast.

I'll still be using this for my yard where there are larger patches of weeds, and where my dog often visits, but at the moment my front porch patio is out of control, so instead of vinegar and boiling water, I'll be giving biological laundry powder a try.

Yes, this recently viral weed killer hack isn't just convenient, but it actually works!

So what exactly is the biological laundry detergent weed killer hack?

Not only can this magic powder prevent weed growth, but it also adds a pleasant scent to your paving slabs. "Biological washing powder is something a lot of us already have at home, yet very few people think to use it outside," claims Bill Jarvis, an expert and co-founder of patio paint supplier Premium Paints.

"It can be a handy option for weeds growing in the joints between paving slabs, especially if you catch them before they become established," he adds.

This is a genius gardening hack for those narrow gaps in your yard where you've noticed weeds normally thrive. This way, you can easily stay on top of your tidy patio, and you won't find yourself panic spreading weed killer before hosting a family barbecue.

How to use laundry powder on your weeds

The first part of this task is simple. Sprinkle a scoop of powder over the weeded area and water it lightly. Leave it a few days to settle, and then dig out your (probably dirty, let's be honest) gardening gloves.

Then, you're going to need to get your hands a little dirty and go ahead and yank out those smaller weeds. "If you deal with weeds while they are still small, they are much easier to manage. Waiting until the patio is completely overgrown usually means a much bigger job," says Jarvis.

Once removed, give this area a good sweep to push away any debris, leaves, or even lost seeds.

"A lot of it comes down to timing", adds Jarvis. Don't let weeds get too big or you'll struggle to remove them and keep them at bay. This means that you need to treat those problem areas frequently.

This bio laundry weed killer hack might not be the be-all and end-all for larger patches of weeds. But it will be a game-changer for filling the cracks in between your paving slabs, to help prevent those pesky weeds from growing back rapidly.

Just don't forget to brush fresh weeds away as they form, as leaving them can spread them fast, and sweeping these hot spots can prevent deep roots from forming.

Let us know in the comments if this hack worked on your weeds.

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• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
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I've got two bird feeders in my garden already, but I recently learned I need one more. Why? Well, there's a special one specifically designed to attract hummingbirds – and I'd love to have more of these adorable, vibrant birds coming to visit.

Not only are they lovely to look at, showing off their unique flying moves from hoovering in midair to flying backward, but they're also great pollinators, boosting your garden's ecosystem for the better.

But, while I've figured out the type of feeder I need, designed to hold liquid sugar water with flower shapes to suit their long beaks, I've also discovered that there's a sweet spot on where you should hang them – and fortunately, it's pretty simple.

So, if you're like me and are eager to attract hummingbirds to your outside space, here's everything you need to know about exactly where it should go for the best chance at attracting these feathered friends.

Where should I hang my feeder?

When hanging your hummingbird feeder, it turns out it's the height that's really important. For this, you want to aim for about 6 feet off the ground. This is a sweet spot for hummingbirds as it's high enough to stay away from predators (namely cats) so acts as a safe space for them to settle down and eat.

But, you want to make sure you're not placing it too high. This would put it away from natural food sources in your yard like flowers and shrubs, as well as opportunities for water.

They also won't be looking for a feeder up that high, especially if it's away from where they'd usually travel. As well as height though, there's a couple of other things to consider when hanging up your feeder.

Keeping it away from windows so they don't crash into the glass is also important, as well as putting it in a shaded area with a touch of sun so that the nectar stays fresh. If you leave it in direct sunlight, the nectar can spoil and make the hummingbirds sick.

Something even better you can do? The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service recommends growing specific plants to attract hummingbirds to your yard: "Hummingbirds prefer to nest near a ready supply of nectar and other food like insects, so you can encourage them to live in or near your home or business by maintaining some shrubbery and deciduous trees in which they can seek protective cover."

"As seasons change, it can also help to leave any leaf litter on the ground as it becomes important habitat for many of the insects and spiders they also eat."

What to put in your hummingbird feeder

Yes, hummingbirds like to eat leaves, spiders and flowers, but that's not what you should be putting in your feeder.

If you're wondering what you to put in them instead to lure in these little birds, there's plenty of advice online, but TikTok helped me out once again with some top tips. Creator @hiddenacrehome has shared a simple recipe with almost 80 thousand views and counting that seems like an easy solution.

All you need is a 4:1 ratio mix of water and sugar. So, with 4 cups of water, add 1 cup of sugar. Give it a good shake and use it to refill your hummingbird feeder whenever needed.

A sweet treat paired with a sweet spot should hopefully attract more hummingbirds to your yard, but you'll still need to have a little patience and be sure to keep the noise levels down. They scare easily.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

Rusty garden furniture isn’t a sign that it needs a one-way trip to the junkyard. In fact, it’s more often than not very easy to remove — if you know exactly what to use and how to apply it.

Better yet? You might just have some secret rust repellent hiding in your pantry. Rumor has it that dark molasses — or even robust molasses — can break down rust. Yes, this is the same ingredient that you’d put in your gingerbread come December.

This bittersweet syrup is a non-toxic way to revive metal garden furniture this summer. And if you already have a jar in your pantry, then it won’t cost a cent to try.

How do we know it works? Jon Saeed, co-founder and managing director at Lighting Legends, told us: “Things that contain acids are generally the best cleaning agents for this issue as acidity is what helps break down the rust, making it easier to scrub away.”

So, what exactly is the black treacle hack for rust?

We all know how easily rust forms on metal garden furniture, whether it’s from rain or moisture. And with that comes the difficulty of removing rust. “Rust on garden furniture can be a real nuisance and can instantly make chairs, tables and benches look old and unclean,” says Saeed.

Luckily, there are a few kitchen staples you can use to clean your rusty furniture. And apart from ketchup, dark molasses, more commonly known as black treacle, will also do the trick.

“Whether or not it’s easy to clean will depend on how long it’s been there for and how much of it there is,” says Saeed. “A light layer of rust can usually be removed with a wire brush or abrasive sponge, but anything that’s been left longer can be a lot more stubborn to remove.”

How to remove rust with black molasses

“Surprisingly, treacle works a treat, but it tends to work best for furniture that you are able to dismantle and soak,” explains Saeed.

When using black treacle or dark molasses to treat rust on cast iron or steel, it’s best to mix one part treacle with eight parts warm water. Give it a good stir and submerge the rusty parts of your furniture in this solution for a good few days — or even a week if you think necessary. After that, you should be able to scrub the rust away.

You might find that an abrasive sponge works well at this stage. Once the rust has gone, be sure to completely dry the piece of furniture before reassembling.

Who says this hack is just for furniture? You can also use it on pans, grill grates and more!

Citric acid will also work

"If you can’t dismantle your furniture, then creating a thick paste with citric acid is a better option,” adds Saeed.

He recommends adding 50-100g of citric acid to enough water to form a thick paste. This can then be applied to the rusty area and then covered with Saran Wrap. Leave it for four hours, then scrub it with a wire brush. Ensure that it’s totally dry, too.

Have you tried this rust hack on your metal furniture (or anything else)? Let us know in the comments below.

More from Tom's Guide

• This expert hack easily removes rust from your garden tools — and it costs less than $1
• 7 tell-tale signs that your patio furniture needs replacing
• How to revive your garden furniture — this cheap kitchen staple will bring it back to life

You’ve overpacked your suitcase and miraculously managed to zip it. You’ve checked that your passport is in your document wallet over and over. And most importantly: you’re certain that you’ve got the right dates for your getaway.

But as you step out the front door, panic sets in — what about the backyard? After five months of feeding, weeding and watering your garden, you’ve neglected to plan how to nurture it while you’re away. Will it still be blooming when you return?

Here are four tips to ensure your garden will look just as lush as the day you left.

4 holiday garden mistakes to avoid this August

Beyond covering your patio furniture and packing up your beloved grill, there are a few extra jobs to tick off in your yard before heading on a vacation. Take it from me: I recently returned from a two-week vacation to discover a yard full of wilting flowers and overgrown weeds.

So, if you don’t have a trusted neighbor to step in, here’s how to hydrate your perennials the smart way this August, according to David Denyer, florist and garden expert at eflorist.

1. Don't leave your potted plants in direct sunlight

Even if you’re working with plants that thrive in the summer sun, consider moving them to a shady spot before you pack up the car. This way, they won’t dry or even possibly wilt while you’re out of state. “The extra heat and intense sunlight could dry them out fast,” says Denyer, so it’s best to be safe than sorry.

2. Don't forget to deadhead

Arguably one of the most important things you can do in your garden, especially if your vacation is longer than a few days, is to identify any flowering plants before you head off.

“Plants can grow at a rapid rate at times, and after some time away, we can return home to what seems like a jungle,” says Denyer.

If any blooms are faded or finished, go ahead and snip them off, always using a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears to avoid spreading disease.

This way, while you’re away, your plant can focus on the important things — like growing new seeds and buds.

3. Don't forget to give your garden a big drink

Giving your plants a generous watering the day before your trip will put them in a great position before you head off. So even if you can’t rely on a neighbor, you’ve got peace of mind that they’re hydrated.

Got any plants with saucers underneath their pots? Fill these with a little water for some bonus points! But be careful: “Soggy roots and overwatering can be a cause for concern, and potentially cause fungus gnats to appear,” explains Denyer.

4. Don't overlook self-watering globes

Self-watering globes are clever pieces of kit designed for a good reason — to drip-feed your plants water over a longer period of time. They come in different sizes depending on how long you’re away from home, but I always say the bigger the better, as the larger the globe, the more hydration your plant is guaranteed.

“Simply fill them up and pop them into the soil just before you leave, and they’ll do the watering for you while you’re on holiday,” says Denyer.

However, he says they are more helpful for indoor plants, as the size-to-soil ratio is more ideal. For outdoor use, he suggests making your own.

How to make your own self-watering globe

You can make your own self-watering device using a water bottle; Denyer recommends using a glass rather than a plastic bottle to avoid placing any microplastics in the soil.

“If you’re going to use this method to water your plants while you’re away, the best way to do it is with a clay spike or cone attached,” he explains.

“Simply screw or secure it onto the top of the bottle, flip it upside down, and stick it into the soil. By adding this, it means the clay will only let water out when the soil’s dry enough to actually need it, so your plant gets a drink only when it’s thirsty.”

You can also simply poke some small holes in the bottle cap instead, and the water will slowly drip out over time to allow for continuous hydration.

Gardening essentials we love

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• I was an AI skeptic — until I started using it to identify plants
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• Stop wasting your money — Gardeners share the common yard expenses to avoid (and great hacks to save cash)

As the sunny weather brings out vibrant blooms and luscious leaves in my garden, I find myself fighting the urge to bring every single one of them indoors so I can enjoy them all day long.

Fortunately, I know that would be excessive, but that doesn't stop me from bringing some of them inside. Cutting fresh flowers from my garden and moving them into vases around my home is one of my favorite things to do in the summer. After all, why would I spend money on bouquets when I've got my own flower shop waiting in my garden?

But, I've learnt some hard lessons along the way, mainly when it comes to inviting bugs into my home riding the petals and stems of the flowers I want to enjoy. To avoid common mistakes, here's 5 top tips for bringing fresh flowers indoors.

1. Choose the right time of day

While you can cut fresh flowers from your garden at any time of day, there's definitely moments that are better than others. First thing in the morning or in the late evening are two of the best opportunities you have and there's a couple of reasons for that.

Firstly, you're doing it before it gets too hot or when the sun is cooling down. This way you're giving them a better chance of not wilting too quickly from the loss of water.

Secondly, insects aren't as active as these times of days so it's less likely that you'll be bringing them indoors.

2. Do as much of it outside as possible

When it comes to cutting fresh flowers, of course you'll be doing it outside at first, but you'll want to spend a bit more time out there then you might initially think.

This tip is a catch-all for the other tips I'm about to cover, too, meaning you should do pretty much all of the work outside. This will ensure you give any insects and pollen time to drop off in the best place – rather than inside your home.

3. Strip the lower leaves away

As you'd do with any shop-bought flowers, it's best to strip away the lower leaves from each stem. When you buy them, doing this avoids the leaves stagnating and rotting in the water.

When you're cutting them from your garden, this is also the case but with the added benefit of getting rid of any insect stragglers clinging on or any messy soil that could dirty up your home.

4. Give them a good shake

It's also a good idea to give your flowers a little shake, emphasis on the little. You don't want to destroy the flowers or risk shaking off the lovely petals, but you also want to give any insects the chance to jump ship.

It's best to do this with the flowers facing downwards as insects can easily hide inside the petals and leaves that are curled upwards.

5. Soak them in cold water

It's especially handy to have a bucket of cold water by your side when you're cutting your fresh flowers to soak them in. This will help give them a quick wash to remove any excess soil, insects, or anything else you don't want inside your home.

If you've had enough time outside, you can also put the bucket in your bathtub or even run some water into the bath to clean them for around 30 minutes before putting them in a vase. Then, you can enjoy your outdoor flowers without worrying about extra visitors in your home.

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The summer weather has been unprecedented, and gardeners everywhere are disheartened by the state of their yards as they look out onto wilting leaves and scorched lawns.

Traditional favorites are taking a beating in the intense heat — my own hydrangeas are turning brown at the edges, and even my shade-loving ferns are struggling to survive.

While protecting your soil, watering wisely, and maximizing shade can help your yard survive the heat, we all need to learn to stop fighting the changing climate and adapt our habits.

I’m determined not to give up on my yard, but climate change and how my garden is responding mean I’m making big changes for next year — starting with a plant overhaul.

First approach — spot what’s thriving

My first instinct when the high temperatures and dry spell hit was to look for the survivors — not just in my own backyard, but across my neighborhood and beyond

As I came to terms with my own depleted garden, spotting the specimens that were still effortlessly thriving gave me hope. It was proof that I shouldn’t give up, and that plenty of resilient varieties can handle the heat.

What’s more, I saw plenty of plants that I already love; I just didn’t have them in my own backyard. Here are my personal top five favorites, which I've chosen for their heat tolerance — and they are all easy to grow.

My 5 favorite heat-tolerant plants I'll be growing next year

1. Agapanthus

Taking one of the top spots is agapanthus — it’s a real showstopper. I’ll never get bored of the delicate globe-shaped clusters of flowers and the thin strap-like leaves. This low-maintenance perennial is also known as the African Lily and it gives out far more than it receives, as it thrives in the heat and tolerates drought.

How to care for agapanthus:
Agapanthus thrives in full sun and needs 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. However, in a hot climate, keep it in partial shade. It will do best in fertile, moist and well-drained soil.

Plant with: Ornamental grasses, daylilies and lavender.

USDA growing zone: 8-11

2. Verbena bonariensis

Verbena bonariensis is native to South America and features airy clusters of purple flowers. It can reach 3 to 6 feet, so don’t put it at the front of your beds, as it’s best placed further back to mingle within a mixed border.

How to care for Verbena bonariensis
This beauty is best planted in full sun in well-drained soil. It will handle sand, loam or clay, if the drainage is good, and it’s highly drought resistant. However, be warned, it is a prolific self-seeder in warm, wetter climates.

Plant with: Coneflowers and salvia.

USDA growing zone: 7-11

3. Achillea millefolium

Achillea millefolium, more commonly known as yarrow, features feathery, fern-like leaves topped on a stem that features a flat-topped cluster of tiny flowers. It’s a tough, drought tolerant perennial that blooms in white, yellow, pink or red. I favor the yellow flower and love seeing it alongside a blue companion plant.

Top tip: What makes this plant exceptional in the heat is its tiny leaves — the smaller the leaves, the less moisture is lost.

How to care for Achillea millefolium
This plant thrives in direct sun and does well in poor soil, so skip fertilizer to prevent the long stems from bending. A well-draining soil is best to prevent root rot.

Plant with: Coneflower, bee balm and sedum.

USDA growing zone: 3-9

4. Sedums

Sedums, commonly known as stonecrop, have succulent leaves, which help them store moisture — and that’s why they are perfect for dry gardens. What’s more, apart from their fleshy foliage, they feature star-shaped flowers that often change color throughout the season. Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ starts its life with pale green flowers, which gradually change to a dark pink.

How to care for Sedums
Sedums are easy to care for as long as they thrive in poor soil and dry conditions, just make sure the soil has good drainage.

Plant with: Coneflowers, yarrow and salvias.

USDA growing zone: 3-11

5. Eryngium

Eryngium is a striking perennial that’s commonly known as sea holly, and it’s amply named, as it evolved right by the coast. This hardy perennial has striking, silvery-blue thistle-like flower heads that will add structure to your yard.

How to care for Eryngium
It will perform best in full sun, and prefers sandy, or rocky soil that is well-drained —just like the coast. Avoid adding fertilizer and heavy watering.

Plant with: Alliums, ornamental grasses and coneflowers.

USDA growing zone: 3-9

How are you adapting to climate change in your garden?

I was curious to see whether other gardeners were already swapping out plants in response to climate change — and according to John Cho, founder at My Cozy Plant, the shift is already underway. He’s seen a surge of interest in heat-tolerant varieties, with gardeners turning to shiso, lemon verbena, okra and dragon fruit.

I'd love to hear what changes you are planning to make to your space. Apart from introducing more heat-tolerant plants, I'm considering replacing part of my lawn with gravel. And if you're a vegetable grower, are you planning on growing a few exotics you wouldn't have previously considered?

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• Beat the heat wave — 5 tips for keeping your lawn green

When tomato leaves begin yellowing or dropping blossoms, it makes sense to immediately suspect a disease or a watering issue. But often, the problem isn't a lack of nutrients in the dirt, it is an invisible chemical barrier preventing the plant from absorbing them.

Tomatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, and if your pH drifts too far out of range, root systems lock up. You don't need to wait days for a digital meter or laboratory mail-in kit to figure out if your soil is off.

With two basic kitchen staples, you can run a quick, reliable test in under five minutes to diagnose what is happening beneath the surface.

How kitchen staples expose your soil's chemistry

Before altering your garden bed, you can use simple acid-base reactions to get a clear directional read on your soil's chemistry. Collect two clean containers and gather fresh soil samples from about three inches below the surface near your plant's root zone, removing any stones or mulch.

In the first container, pour half a cup of household white vinegar directly over the soil sample. If it fizzes or bubbles immediately, your soil is alkaline (pH above 7.0), reacting to the acid in the vinegar.

If nothing happens, take your second container, moisten the soil sample with distilled water until it becomes muddy, and sprinkle a tablespoon of baking soda on top. Vigorous bubbling here signals acidic soil (pH below 6.0).

If neither sample reacts, your soil sits comfortably in the neutral range.

Why extreme soil pH starves tomato roots

Tomatoes require a specific pH sweet spot (ideally between 6.0 and 6.8) to efficiently uptake nutrients from the soil. When your baking soda or vinegar test produces an aggressive reaction, it indicates a significant pH imbalance.

Even if your soil is rich in compost or fertilizer, high alkalinity or extreme acidity chemically binds essential elements like nitrogen, phosphorus, and iron. In alkaline soil, for instance, calcium and iron become insoluble, causing young leaves to yellow while leaf veins stay dark.

What looks like a dying, diseased tomato plant is often just a severe nutritional bottleneck caused entirely by the surrounding soil pH.

How to adjust your soil before applying fertilizer

Once your DIY test identifies which way your pH is leaning, you can take the best course of action rather than blindly adding fertilisers that might worsen the problem.

If the vinegar test fizzed, your soil is too alkaline. To pull the pH down toward the ideal range, you will need to work elemental sulphur or acidifying organic matter like pure peat moss into the topsoil. Ordinary leaf compost or straw won't be strong enough to break the alkalinity.

If the baking soda test reacted, your soil is overly acidic. You can safely correct this by mixing in garden lime, which raises the pH gradually without shocking the root zone, though small, careful top-dressings of wood ash can also work in a pinch.

While this kitchen hack provides a yes-or-no signal rather than an exact numerical reading, it gives you an immediate, actionable diagnosis so you can stabilise your root zone before long-term damage sets in.

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Lavender is one of my favorite plants that rewards me with delicate flowers and an enticing scent. But apart from my own enjoyment, this perennial shrub is a haven for wildlife and loved by pollinators. It’s a win-win specimen to grow in any yard.

And now that we are moving into late summer, August is the perfect month to prune lavender. But there is one thing you need to know before you get out your pruning shears to ensure your lavender continues to flourish next year.

Adam Kirtland, a gardener who shares his insight on Instagram @viewfromthepottingbench, explains how you should prune lavender and the common pruning mistake you need to avoid.

How to prune your lavender for a healthy plant

“By now your lavender is probably leggy and has lost some of its color, but spending a bit of time now will give you an amazing plant next year,” explains Kirtland.

And he suggests following the ‘888 rule’, which refers to pruning your lavender on the 8th day of the 8th month, and by 8 inches. But don’t worry, although August 8 has passed, you’ve still got time to prune your lavender.

“You’ll know that your lavender is ready to prune when it’s brown and crispy, but if yours has still got color then you can absolutely wait,” he explains.

So, how do you prune lavender and what do you need to avoid?

Kirtlands explains that the aim is to cut above the brown and woody growth. He demonstrates by showing the brown part on a plant with a green section above, which is where you need to snip.

“If you cut too low, you’ll enter the woody base, and it won’t regrow. If you cut it too high, then it’ll stay leggy. This rule keeps it neat, bushy and blooming,” he says

What’s more, he reminds gardeners to use a sharp pair of pruning shears and to cut into the green growth, not the woody base. “You can either cut off individual blooms or do what I do and grab a bunch and snip all the way through. Work your way around the whole bush, and the aim is to have a nice round mound,” he explains.

By pruning your lavender at the right time, in the right place and at the right length, he says you’ll be encouraging your lavender to “live longer, bloom harder and look less like it’s given up on life.”

But that’s not all; once you’ve pruned your lavender, Kirtland suggests it makes perfect cutting material, or can be placed in a dark place and dried for later use in gifts and even baking. It really is a plant that keeps on giving.

More from Tom's Guide

• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody
• Now is the best time to harvest your lavender — here’s how to do it the right way
• How to extend the life of your lavender — experts share their tips

There’s nothing quite like picking fresh, homegrown vegetables straight from the vine and bringing them directly to your dining table. Plus, it’s the ultimate way to elevate those crisp, summer salads!

But whether you’re learning how to grow tomatoes from seeds or cultivating tomatoes in pots, you’ll inevitably face one frustrating hurdle — garden pests.

In fact, keeping your plants safe from hungry intruders such as squirrels, birds, or even deer is often the biggest obstacle to achieving that perfect, juicy harvest this season.

And while there are plenty of natural pest repellents or companion plants to help deter pests, there is one unlikely item found in your bathroom that can do just the trick.

So why are gardeners putting a bar of ‘special’ soap by their tomato plants?

Hang a bar of soap near tomato plants

It seems like a simple bar of soap can do so much more than just clean your skin or leave you smelling fresh.

Interestingly, its strong fragrance acts as a powerful deterrent for garden pests. However, it’s not just any standard store-bought brand that will work; you’ll need to use Irish Spring Moisture Blast Deodorant Bar Soap.

According to a research study conducted by the University of Nebraska in 1991, using “bars of fragrant soap will keep deer from crops at critical times.”

This makes it an ideal solution to hang by your tomato crops, acting as a barrier to ensure they’re not devoured or ruined by all types of yard intruders.

Perhaps the only caveat is that once the fragrance starts to wear off, they’ll soon be back. So, it’s best to only use this easy hack alongside other methods to ensure your garden remains a pest-free zone.

How to use soap by tomato plants (and what not to do)

There are a couple of ways you can use soap near your tomato plants. The first is to drill a small hole through the soap, thread some string, and hang it from stakes or a plant trellis. For best results, leave the packaging on before hanging, and experts suggest that a single bar is a sufficient scent barrier for any tomato plants within a 3-foot area.

Another option is to place the bar inside a small, fine-mesh pouch before hanging it near your crops instead. Once the soap fragrance wears off, you can simply replace it with a fresh bar.

Bear in mind that if soap is used incorrectly, it may harm your plants. Since this may contain sodium hydroxide, or contemporary lye, it can scorch foliage and harm plant tissues. So be sure that no soap residue drips onto your tomato plants or soil.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

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• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
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You’d think after several decades of gardening, few plants could catch me completely by surprise. Yet nature always finds a way to remind me how much there is left to discover.

During a visit to Arundel Castle and Gardens in the U.K. this summer, I was completely captivated — first by the exquisite water garden, and then by a breathtaking bloom that left me spellbound, all quietly affirming why I do what I do.

Despite searching high and low for a plant label to identify the mysterious bloom, it remained unnamed. In this situation, my trusted go-to move is to snap a quick photo on my phone and post it on social, hoping one of my gardening followers can help.

But, as I am often surrounded by AI discussions at Tom’s Guide, I thought it was time to swap my social media shout-outs for a tech-driven answer.

Follow me on my journey to see whether artificial intelligence can become a reliable gardening companion, or whether I need to fall back on a seasoned gardener’s eye. And true to my aptitude at saving money, I used free apps during my experiment.

What happened when I used AI to identify a plant?

Although I work within digital publishing, I’m not as tech-savvy as some of my Tom’s Guide colleagues, who can navigate digital tools with their eyes shut. But, thankfully, if you can upload a photo to social media, you’re already fully qualified to use AI to identify plants.

Before putting AI to work, you need a crisp, clear shot. Unlike a fellow gardener, a cluttered background will trip up an algorithm. It really won’t be happy if you ask it to identify a plant that’s included in a mixed border.

My tip is to frame a single flower in the center. Cutting out the clutter will give AI exactly what it needs for an accurate identification.

Using Google Gemini

Having opened Google Gemini on my phone, I entered the prompt ‘identify this plant’. I thought it would instruct me to upload an image, but before doing so, it gave me instructions to either provide a photo or describe the plant, including specifics such as leaves and flowers, growth habitat and environment.

I then attached the image of the plant that I’d already taken. However, at this point you could take the photo; it doesn’t already have to be an image you already have stored on your phone.

The results
I didn’t even have time to blink before the results appeared. Apparently my mystery plant is a Cleome hassleriana, commonly known as the spider flower.

Gemini responded with:

"This plant is Cleome (botanical name Cleome hassleriana or Tarenaya hassleriana), commonly known as the Spider Flower or Spider Plant."

I wasn’t expecting any more than the name, and yes, Google Gemini was correct. But I was also given details on the plant’s key characteristics, including its flowers, foliage, growth habit, care and growing tips. Here's a snapshot of some of the details:

"Flowers: Bright pink, purple, or white terminal clusters featuring long, thread-like stamens that extend far beyond the petals, giving them a spider-like appearance."

I'll be sharing more on the beautiful spider flower in another article, as apparently it’s super easy to grow — as advised by my garden designer friend Steven Digby, who often helps me out with my Instagram shout-outs. You won’t get this personalized advice on AI, but it will give you a good start.

Using ChatGPT

Using ChatGPT
I entered the same instructions into ChatGPT to compare results. This time, unlike Gemini, ChatGPT gave me instructions on what to capture in the image, such as taking a photo of the whole plant and getting close-ups of the leaves, any flowers, fruits, or seed pods.

It also suggested capturing the stem or bark and adding any details about location, height and scent. However, from my understanding, it was expecting to identify the plant by a photo, rather than a description alone.

ChatGPT responded with:

"This looks like a spider flower, most likely Cleome hassleriana. The features that stand out are:

• Bright pink flower clusters.
• Very long, thread-like stamens that give the flowers a "spidery" appearance.
• Tall, upright stems.
• Palmately compound leaves with several narrow leaflets."

ChatGPT was correct in its identification, and it did provide some additional details on the plant, but from a user perspective, I found Google Gemini’s information simpler to read. Splitting it into clear headings made it easier to digest.

That said, ChatGPT did pick up that there were other plants within the image, noticing rose leaves, and stated that although it identified rose bushes close by, it was confident in identifying the spider flower as the main plant.

Other apps to try
Although I decided to use Google Gemini, Mike Prospero, U.S. editor-in-chief at Tom’s Guide, previously used Google, Google Chrome and the Gemini app, and he takes you through how to use all three in his article on identifying poison ivy using AI.

AI versus human: The verdict

I was impressed with both Gemini and ChatGPT — each identified the mystery plant instantly from just a single photo, without any further hints.

I’m no longer skeptical about using AI to identify plants, and if you’re impatient and want to know the answer quickly, this tech delivers.

An algorithm won’t give the subtle, seasoned wisdom of an experienced gardener, such as my friend Digby’s advice on how this stunning annual is really easy to grow from seed. (Yes, I doubled my chances and uploaded the photo on social.) But if you want quick answers, it provides accurate plant identification.

My deep dive into AI came down to my new obsession with the spider flower, and now I know what it is and that it’s easy to grow; I’ll be adding it to my garden next year.

How else can AI help gardeners?

This is just the beginning of my gardening journey using AI. I'm already planning other ways to test how AI can help me in the garden, from assisting with planting plans to advising on heat-tolerant plants, and I’ll be sharing what I discover over the coming months. Let me know your thoughts and experiences of using AI in the garden in the comments below.

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• Stop fighting the climate: Expert-approved tips on how to plant for hotter summers
• 7 easy vegetables to plant in August that thrive as summer fades
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Wild violets are the wolf in sheep's clothing of lawn weeds. In spring, their small purple flowers look charming enough that many homeowners leave them alone. By midsummer, you realize they've taken over.

The issue with wild violets is they're designed to trick you into failure. Their leaves have a waxy coating that repels standard herbicides. Underground, they've developed a network of tubers that survive pulling, mowing, and casual attempts at removal. By the time you realize it's a problem, they're already winning. Here's how to take your lawn back.

Why wild violets are so hard to kill

Those purple flowers are lovely, which is exactly why people ignore wild violets until it's too late. The real threat is underground. Wild violets develop rhizomes: tough, fleshy underground stems that store energy and keep the plant alive even when you think you've eliminated it.

Above ground, the leaves have a protective waxy layer that causes liquid herbicides to slide right off without penetrating.

This combination makes them nearly impossible to kill with casual effort. They also spread aggressively. Wild violets produce seed pods both above and below ground, meaning they're distributing seeds whether you see it happening or not.

If you've got wild violets in your yard, assume they're already further along than they appear.

More from Tom's Guide

• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• How to stop ground ivy taking over your lawn

Summer is here and the ideal time to get outdoors and prioritize our yard and lawn maintenance. To make light work of our tasks, it’s easy to get lured into buying expensive gardening gadgets and professional-grade supplies in hopes of making yard work a breeze (I’ve been guilty of that).

However, seasoned pros warn that many of these items are actually a waste of money and offer little real benefit.

So if you’re looking to slash your gardening budget, I asked the experts to reveal the most common yard expenses to avoid — and what you can do to save your cash.

1. Buying fertilizer (without doing a soil test first)

While fertilizer is an essential buy for nurturing plants or achieving a vibrant lawn, homeowners frequently dump cash into bags of fertilizer without first checking their soil's condition. This means that you could be wasting money on fertilizer that won’t benefit your garden.

“One of the biggest things I see that homeowners waste money on is fertilizing a lawn without doing a soil test first,” states Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal.

“Many people apply products that their lawn doesn't actually need, and that wastes money and harms the turf. A simple soil test doesn't cost very much and will tell you exactly which nutrients your lawn is missing and let you know which one to buy.”

You can purchase a soil meter to check the soil pH balance and condition before buying, or you can simply use homemade fertilizer such as mulch.

“One of my favorite money-saving hacks is to mulch your lawn clippings instead of bagging them. The lawn clippings return nutrients to the soil, reduce fertilizer needs, and will help keep the lawn healthier throughout the season.”

For more top tips, here’s how to reuse your lawn clippings around your yard.

2. Cheap plastic gardening tools

Another common money-waster is investing in plastic gardening tools that we think will help us get the job done quickly. From seed-starting trays to cheap soil meters, these can often be a waste of money.

While it may seem like a good idea at the time — or when it was on sale — these tend not to last long or easily get damaged.

“Plastic tools degrade faster than metal ones. As a result, they need to be replaced more often, costing you more money in the long run,” agrees Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert at Online Turf.

“Cheap plastic seed starting trays can be very flimsy, breaking after as little as one or two seasons, but they are also bad for the environment," Zaber says. "Instead, you can use DIY methods, such as toilet rolls or eggshells, to create your own pots, buy better quality, reusable trays, or invest in biodegradable alternatives.”

It’s always worth spending money on tools that you’ll actually use often, and buy high-quality, durable tools that will go the distance.

I’ve often made the mistake of buying cheap gardening tools that would either do a poor job, break easily, or just end up collecting dust at the back of my kit.

What’s more, before you press ‘buy’ on that cheap online deal, always check out the specs or reviews. It may well be too good to be true.

“Homeowners should only buy the tools they will absolutely use, not ones that they think they might need,” adds Charlie Gilbert, Managing Director of Ransom Spares.

“Research the tools that you need to maintain your current garden, and avoid big toolset purchases. Take notice of how often you use the tools you start out with and what they cost you.

Some homeowners might realize that yard upkeep is too taxing or time-consuming and reach out to professional services, who will have their own tools.”

3. Low-quality garden furniture

I’m a sucker for Pinterest, and love looking for inspiration to spruce up my garden with different furniture and decor styles.

And while it’s possible to upgrade your backyard on a budget, avoid buying low-quality garden furniture, because it’s on trend right now.

“Outdoor furniture is expensive, and quality matters most when purchasing it,” states Gilbert. “Low-quality furniture will fade, rust, or crack more quickly than most people think. Those who live in very sunny, humid, or rainy climates will have to replace their furniture more often if they do not buy a weather-durable set.”

Another great money-saving tip is to consider buying used garden items, tools or furniture — but obviously check they are in good condition first.

“Garden furniture sets are not often something people concern themselves with the most when moving to a new house,” agrees Gilbert.

“Furniture can be cumbersome and difficult to move if you have a small vehicle, so check your local online listings and yard sales. Tools can also be purchased secondhand; just check their condition before buying.

“Word of mouth goes a long way as well if you live in a smaller neighborhood. You never know who is trying to get rid of what, so talk to your neighbors and let them know what you are looking for.”

So the next time you visit a thrift store or local market, it might be worth looking out for pre-loved garden furniture that you could rehome — and save a buck.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Homeowners warned as rats may be chewing through yard wires this summer — expert tips to keep them out
• 7 surprising household items to help your plants grow 

It’s been a heartbreaking season for gardeners. Prolonged heatwaves and persistent dry spells have decimated many of our beds, leaving traditional garden favorites struggling to survive.

Seeing a prized specimen wilt morning after morning is a sobering sight — and a shared despair among fellow growers this year.

This summer has served as a wake-up call to the reality of climate change in our own backyards. As we take stock of what survived and plan for next season, the question isn’t just what to plant, but how to adapt.

How is climate change affecting our gardens?

Climate change will affect locations differently over the coming years, according to Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer and writer at First Tunnels. “In many areas, summers will be hotter and drier than they were before and winters will be milder and wetter," she said. "Weather extremes, from extreme drought to extreme rainfall and flooding, will become ever more common.”

The evidence is already apparent, but what do these changes mean? Sharon Yiesla, Plant Knowledge Specialist at The Morton Arboretum, says that just about everything in our gardens will be affected, from when plants flower, how long they stay active in fall, to watering needs and the timing of gardening activities.

Moving forward, the goal isn’t just maintaining a traditional garden, but building a resilient ecosystem that can weather the changes ahead.

The realization that gardeners need to make changes

One of the first ways to adapt to climate change is to acknowledge that the plants that previously thrived in your yard may not have the same resilience to changing patterns in temperature and rainfall.

I can already see a clear pattern in what plants are drought- and heat-resistant in my backyard and local region. My beautiful hydrangeas have been struggling through the endless heatwaves, and my tomatoes are failing to turn red.

John Cho, founder at Mr Cozy Plant, also acknowledges that these are two much-loved staples that can no longer handle our current summer temperatures. He says that hydrangea leaves start to turn brown and crisp at the edges once the temperature hits 84°F (28°C).

As for tomatoes, he adds, “Tomato pollen dies, and flowers drop off at 90°F (32°C). This means the plants stop growing new fruit entirely during heat spikes.”

It can be disappointing when your favorites show signs of stress, and when the realization hits that you need to open your horizons to new plants that can withstand temperatures above and beyond the mid-80s.

How to adapt to the changing climate

“Before we begin to think about specific swaps for plants, it is important to consider the practical design and the core cycles and frameworks that underpin all our gardening efforts,” explains Waddington.

If you’re planning to swap your heat-sensitive plants for drought-tolerant plants, you still need to consider the soil and drainage — if the earth is compacted and the soil is waterlogged in winter, the plant is less likely to survive.

And she adds, a lot of it comes down to managing water wisely and taking care of the soil. “Boosting biodiversity in the garden, both plants and wildlife, also helps us minimize risk and build more stable and secure systems that can stand the test of time.”

It's also more important than ever to be aware of what is going on in your garden. "We can no longer garden by the calendar," Yiesla says. "We must look at weather conditions and the condition of the plants."

Here we delve into seven things to consider when planning your planting scheme.

1. Think soil first

Kim Stoddart, author of The Climate Change Resilient Vegetable Garden, and owner at Green Rocket Courses, agrees with Waddington and says, “Think soil health, first and foremost.”

She suggests using the no-till method and mulching regularly to help lock water in using freely available materials from your garden. “Grass clippings, leaves, wood chips, chop and drop leaves, cardboard, comfrey or spent compost from pots all help protect soil and plants,” she says.

Try to avoid bare soil, which will dry out more quickly and be much more vulnerable. Stoddart says ground cover plants and mulches will both help.

What is the no-till method?
This technique is based on avoiding turning the soil, while using organic matter to cover the ground and suppress weeds, and leaving this material to break down naturally.

2. Water wisely

Watering deeply and less often will encourage the roots of plants to reach deep into the soil rather than seeking water on the surface. And Stoddart says to avoid overwatering and feeding too much as the plants start out. “It creates plants which are needier for attention from gardeners with shallower root systems and less resilience as a result.”

3. Think right plant, right place

I’m a real advocate of the right plant, right place mentality, and Stoddart is too. She also suggests taking stock of those plants, especially annuals, which are repeatedly struggling and then consider whether you should keep growing them.

I’d add to this advice and suggest you also take note of what continues to perform well in your garden and your surrounding location. While my hydrangeas are struggling, my sedums are wondering what all the fuss is about!

4. Put your money on perennials

Stoddart suggests planting more perennials, as they can develop deep root structures that enable them to find food and water from further afield, giving them greater resilience against extreme weather overall.

Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf, says, “Any plants that can handle a wet winter and dry summer are the ones to go for.”

My salvia 'Hot Lips' is currently looking triumphant and is definitely one plant I'll be increasing next year. I'll also be adding coneflowers and yarrow to my collection.

5. Make the most of shade

Although some plants are sun lovers, creating some shade will protect them and other sun-shy plants from direct heat. “Move plant pots if you can into semi-shade as needed, and group pots together,” says Stoddart.

This plant watering hack can also be used when you go on vacation to reduce the amount of water your plants need while you are away.

6. Celebrate natural pest predators

To protect your plants from predators, which will be more at risk during extreme weather, Stoddart suggests encouraging an abundance of natural pest controllers. “You want lots of ladybugs, wasps and other predators to help in the garden,” she says.

She also recommends mixing up planting schemes and placing ornamentals with edibles to create a greater balance.

7. Don't forget your lawn

My lawn was the first area to suffer in the heat, and with water restrictions in my area, it now resembles straw. Although my lawn has gone into dormancy, there is still some semblance of life — albeit the weeds!

Cho says that lawns turn brown and stop growing when temperatures reach 84°F (29°C). Although you can’t revive it, Handley says you can aerate the soil to improve airflow and reduce compaction, which aids water absorption. All you need is a garden fork or a lawn aerator to spike deep holes into the soil.

I'd love to know what tactics you are following to keep on top of your garden in the extreme heat. Please let me know in the comments below.

I'm also going to be experimenting with AI to see how it can help me plant more wisely with the changing climate, similar to how I used AI to help me identify a mystery plant.

More from Tom's Guide

• 5 plants that love the sun and will survive a heatwave
• Is the heatwave turning your grass brown? An expert recommends watering your lawn the ‘Wimbledon way’
• Beat the heat wave — 5 tips for keeping your lawn green

It’s often unnerving when you spot a rat scurrying across your property — especially during these summer months, when you want to enjoy the outdoors. Not only are these pests on the hunt for food and shelter, but they may also be causing significant damage to your garden appliances and power cables.

According to an expert, rat activity peaks during warmer months, as rats gnaw to keep their teeth worn down. Since their teeth never stop growing, rats need to constantly chew on hard materials to prevent them from overgrowing — making our outdoor power cables an easy target.

“Rats seem to like chewing on electrical wires, which can be a real nuisance,” states Adam Wilkins, Managing Director of LightingLegends.

“If they gnaw hard enough, they can actually cause some real damage to garden appliances, and you’ll have to replace the wiring or, in some cases, the whole appliance.”

The good news is that you can keep these pests from invading your outdoor space by implementing these expert-approved top tips.

Here are three simple things you can do in your yard to keep rats out and save your yard's electrical appliances from damage.

1. Cover or repair entry points

The first thing is to inspect your yard for holes and gaps in fences, uncovered drain covers, or any other potential entry points that rats can use to enter your property.

"Repair holes in sheds and fences to prevent rats from accessing the garden,” advises Wilkins.

“Since rats often travel through drains, consider repairing any broken drain covers. You can also cover rat burrows with wire mesh to prevent it from reopening.”

Another top tip is to get rid of any yard clutter — including piles of lumber, garden waste, or even old tires. Such things may serve as a nesting site for rodents to hide and seek shelter. So always keep it tidy and well maintained.

Ultimately, the key is to ensure your outdoor environment is highly uninviting, making it difficult for rodents to easily enter your outdoor space.

Also, is your neighbor's cluttered yard attracting rodents to your home? I asked the experts what to do.

2. Remove any food sources

Secondly, remove any potential food sources that will entice rats to keep coming back (and feasting in your yard). Things like fallen fruit, standing water, or even dropped bird food can all attract rodents.

“Rats are usually on the lookout for suitable shelter with food so remove any fallen fruit, nuts or vegetables that they may find enticing,” adds Wilson.

Be sure to pick up any fruit that has dropped from your trees, tidy up scattered bird seed from the patio, and regularly drain any stagnant water or pet dishes to avoid attracting unwanted visitors.

3. Secure your compost bins

Composting is a great way to repurpose kitchen waste and put it back into your yard. However, our compost bins are also a magnet for rats since it provides everything that they need — food and shelter.

"If you have a compost bin be sure to turn the compost regularly and consider installing mesh underneath if it sits on soil,” advises Wilsons. “These bins are hotspots for rats because it provides them with food, warmth and shelter.”

One good solution is to invest in a tumbler compost bin, which is designed to make it easier to turn over. Typically, these feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to reach all parts.

Things to look out for

Of course, keep an eye out for your electrical equipment. And if you do spot a cable that has been chewed or damaged, be sure to turn off the power and always call in an electrician to repair it.

"Where possible, keep cables off the ground, check them regularly for signs of gnawing, move any electrical appliances indoors overnight and replace any damaged wiring rather than attempting to cover it up," adds Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket

"If you suspect a cable has been chewed, switch off the power and contact a qualified electrician to inspect it, rather than trying to fix it yourself."

You'll want to quickly eliminate the risk of structural damage or worse, electrical fires caused by chewed wires.

What's more, you'll want to enjoy your backyard in peace this summer.

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Whether you’re growing your own tomatoes from seeds or in pots, nothing beats the taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes.

This is especially true when you can just pick straight from the vine and throw them into your tasty pasta dishes or summer salads.

But when you’re boiling your pasta, don’t be so quick to throw out your leftover water just yet.

I’ve just stumbled upon a surprising benefit from this common kitchen ‘leftover’ that might just help your tomato plants thrive. It’s a great way to provide a natural boost to your crop without the need for expensive fertilizers or the latest viral tomato-growing tips.

However, you’ll need to know the pros and cons first before putting it to good use in your yard. Here’s how pasta water can benefit your tomatoes (and the one drawback).

Why pasta water is good for tomato plants

Essentially, when you boil pasta, the process releases excess starch into the water. This creates a nutrient-rich liquid that can act as an effective fertilizer for your tomato plants and encourage soil microbes.

Plus, certain pasta varieties release essential minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron — which are all great for giving our plants a healthy boost and optimum growth.

However, this will only be effective with unsalted pasta water — or else the salt can dry out the plant or even kill it. What’s more, the salty water can lead to excess sodium in the soil, which will also affect growth.

How to water your tomato plants with pasta water

Simply drain your pasta water into a bowl, and leave it to cool. Once cooled, you can water the soil directly from the bowl or use a watering can or spray bottle to make the process a little easier.

Now you have your starch-rich, plant tonic — which is literally free.

One thing to remember

It is worth noting that there is one drawback. This starchy liquid may potentially attract unwanted pests or harmful bacteria to your garden.

To avoid the risk of mold in your soil or drawing insects, it’s recommended to use pasta water on plants sparingly.

Of course, it’s always best to use the right fertilizer for your tomato varieties, but there’s no harm in using homemade alternatives.

Plus, this is a cost-effective way to reuse your pasta water (until you get fed up of eating pasta dinners).

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
• Plus, 11 things to do when overwintering tomatoes

With the high heat showing no signs of abating, I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to stop mosquitoes ruining my summer.

Although there are plenty of techniques to deter mosquitoes in your garden, a lighting expert has revealed how a simple change can make a big difference, and I’m eager to find out more.

Humid evenings are the perfect environment for mosquitoes to thrive, and inadvertently, when you are enjoying outdoor gatherings around your patio and other seating areas, you’re likely to make the problem worse by turning on outdoor lighting.

Get the right tone

But since mosquitoes are attracted to lights, Jon Saeed, managing director at Lighting Legends, says you are making the problem worse. He says, “While you’re sitting out in the garden into the late evening, you may notice there are more mosquitos, especially if you have cool-toned garden lights.

“A lot of people aren’t aware that these lights tend to attract mosquitoes and other pesky bugs, which can turn into a real nuisance when trying to enjoy your garden.”

However, a simple switch to your outside lights can help dissipate the problem. And it’s all to do with the color.

“When choosing your outdoor lights, it’s definitely worth opting for yellow or warm-toned lights with a color temperature between 2,200K and 2,700K, as these are much less likely to invite insects into your garden,” he suggests.

These are significantly less attractive to mosquitoes and biting bugs compared to cooler lights above 5,000K. By switching to these 'bug-friendly' lights, you can continue to enjoy your outdoor spaces with fewer interruptions from insects.

As mosquitoes and other insects are less attracted to warm light, you’ll be able to enjoy your outside space with fewer annoying distractions.

8 ways to deter mosquitoes from your yard

Apart from changing the color temperature of your lights Saeed shares eight extra methods to prevent mosquitoes from ruining your summer.

1. Remove standing water
“Bugs like mosquitoes breed in stagnant water, so eliminating standing water sources can go a long way in helping to reduce their population,” says Saeed.

Regularly check and remove standing water in flower pots, birdbaths, gutters, and water trays.

2. Mosquito-repellent plants
Certain plants naturally repel mosquitoes due to the oils and scents they release. For this reason Saeed suggests planting lavender, citronella grass, lemon balm, marigolds and basil, which will all help.

3. Encourage natural predators
Just like plants, birds, bats, and certain insects like dragonflies are natural predators of mosquitoes. Saeed recommends encouraging these natural predators by providing nesting boxes, bird feeders, and water sources.

4. Install bug-repelling lighting
Swap out garden lights for yellow “bug lights”. You could also try solar-powered insect zappers, such as Anysonic’s Solar Bug Zapper, $29 at Best Buy.

5. Install mosquito traps
Traps lure mosquitoes by mimicking human scents and warmth. Saeed suggests trying an electric mosquito trap, with some emitting carbon dioxide to attract mosquitoes.

6. Maintain your garden
“Dense, overgrown gardens can become a haven for mosquitoes, so keeping your garden neat and tidy should help prevent them,” says Saeed.

Trim bushes, mow your lawn regularly, and keep your garden free of debris and clutter.

7. Use essential oils
Essential oils like lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus can deter mosquitoes when used in diffusers or mixed with water and sprayed around your garden. He suggests adding essential oils to a spray bottle with water and spraying liberally around areas where mosquitoes tend to gather in your garden.

8. Set up fans
I never knew that mosquitoes are weak fliers, but Saeed says that because of this vulnerability, fans can help keep them away by creating a soft breeze. He advises setting fans around seating areas, particularly during still, warm evenings.

More from Tom's Guide

• I asked pest experts why mosquitoes always bite me — their answer surprised me
• Banish mosquitoes from your home with one natural ingredient — and it also smells great
• A simple garden spray repels mosquitoes and stops them from breeding near your home — here's how to make it

If you think August marks the end of the vegetable growing season, think again. In fact, this month is one of the best times of year to fill empty beds and containers with fast-growing crops that thrive as summer begins to fade.

After the intense heat and sunlight of July, August marks the beginning of the slow descent into fall and the return of gentler growing conditions.

Many vegetables actually prefer the milder conditions that late summer brings. While the soil is still warm enough for seeds to germinate quickly, cooler nights and shorter days help leafy greens stay tender, root vegetables develop sweeter flavors, and many crops grow with fewer problems than they do in the height of summer.

There’s another reason not to pack away your gardening gloves just yet. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the average growing season across the contiguous U.S. has increased by more than two weeks since the beginning of the 20th century, with the biggest changes occurring over the last 30 years. That gives many gardeners a larger window to sow cool-season vegetables — although it also means late-summer heat can linger for longer.

Whether you’re replacing crops you’ve already harvested or simply want to make the most of every inch of growing space, here are seven vegetables well worth planting now.

1. Spinach

Spinach is one of the easiest wins for an August vegetable garden. Unlike spring sowings, which can bolt if temperatures rise too quickly, late-summer spinach enjoys cooler conditions and rewards you with plenty of tender leaves for salads, smoothies and cooking. Better still, baby leaves can be ready to pick in as little as a month, making it one of the quickest crops you can grow before fall arrives.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep in rich, moist soil in full sun or light afternoon shade if your days are still very hot. Water regularly until seedlings appear and thin plants to around 4 to 6 inches apart to give them room to grow.

2. Radishes

If patience isn’t your strong suit, radishes deserve a place in your garden. Some varieties are ready to harvest in under four weeks, making them ideal for filling gaps left behind by harvested tomatoes, beans or potatoes. They also tend to be crisper and milder when planted in August and grown as temperatures begin to cool, rather than during the hottest part of summer.

How to plant
Direct sow seeds around ½ inch deep and 1 inch apart in loose, well-drained soil. Thin seedlings once they’ve emerged and keep the soil evenly moist to encourage fast, even growth.

3. Lettuce

There’s a reason experienced gardeners often wait until late summer to sow another crop of lettuce. Cooler weather helps prevent plants from bolting too quickly, while the leaves develop a sweeter, less bitter flavor. Loose-leaf varieties are especially rewarding because you can harvest a few leaves at a time and they’ll continue producing for weeks.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ¼ inch deep in fertile soil and keep them consistently moist while they germinate. If you’re experiencing a late-season heatwave, provide a little afternoon shade until seedlings are established.

4. Carrots

Freshly harvested carrots are hard to beat, and August is an excellent time to sow them for a fall crop. As temperatures drop, the roots naturally become sweeter, making them even more delicious than many spring-grown carrots. Choose quick-maturing varieties if your first frost usually arrives early.

How to plant
Scatter seeds thinly over finely prepared soil and cover with around ¼ inch of compost or soil. Keep the seedbed damp throughout germination, as carrots can take up to three weeks to emerge.

5. Kale

Kale practically comes into its own in cooler weather. It's one of the most cold-tolerant vegetables you can grow, and many gardeners swear that the leaves taste even better after the first light frost. Once established, plants can keep producing for months, giving you repeated harvests from a single sowing.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep or transplant young plants into fertile soil, spacing them 12 to 18 inches apart. Water deeply during dry spells and harvest the lower leaves first to encourage continuous growth.

6. Beets

Beets are one of those vegetables that earn their space in almost any garden. Not only do you get sweet, earthy roots, but the young leaves can also be harvested for salads or cooked like spinach. Late-summer sowings often produce excellent-quality roots thanks to the cooler weather during their final weeks of growth.

How to plant
Sow seeds around ½ inch deep and thin seedlings to around 3 or 4 inches apart once they've sprouted. Water consistently throughout the season to help roots develop evenly.

7. Turnips

Turnips don't always get the attention they deserve, but they're one of the fastest and easiest vegetables to grow for a fall harvest. Both the roots and leafy tops are edible, making them a great choice if you're trying to get the most from a small vegetable patch. As with many root crops, cooler temperatures improve both texture and flavor.

How to plant
Direct sow seeds ½ inch deep in loose soil and thin seedlings to around 4 inches apart. Keep plants well watered to encourage smooth, tender roots.

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