Fall may be officially here, but that doesn’t mean your lawn care duties need to take a back seat. There are a few key things we need to do to protect our grass and keep it healthy and lush year-round.

A lawn care expert reveals the early signs of a critical infestation to look out for and how to deal with this invasive pest — leatherjackets.

This is because September marks the peak egg-laying season for crane flies, which eventually hatch into leatherjackets — which are every gardener’s nightmare.

Not only do these destructive pests thrive by feeding on grass roots and plants, but they can also leave your once-pristine lawn severely damaged.

“Right now, those eggs are just sitting below the surface, waiting for cold and wet conditions to hatch into leatherjackets,” states Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“Although small, these grubs can be a nightmare for your lawn. An infestation can undo all the hard work you’ve put in and leave you with nothing.”

Luckily, there is one task you can do in September to prevent a ‘nightmare’ infestation right now. Here’s how to tackle this issue.

What are leatherjackets and what to look out for?

While the name doesn’t sound like a destructive garden pest, what exactly are leatherjackets (also known as lawn grubs)?

Essentially, these are adult crane flies that lay eggs in the lawn from late summer to October.

Once these eggs hatch into leatherjackets, they live just beneath the soil surface and feed on grass roots once colder weather sets in.

“These pests are legless grubs with tough, leathery skin, typically grey or brown in colour, and can grow up to 3cm in length,” adds Davis. “They thrive by eating the roots of grass and plants, killing their food source as they go. Once eggs hatch, leatherjackets spend the colder months feeding underground before the damage becomes visible in early spring.”

Since these destructive pests live under the soil, we won’t notice the problem until months later. Key warning signs to look out for include grass turning yellow or noticeable patches on the lawn.

While there is no way to stop crane flies from laying their eggs, you can prevent the damage once eggs hatch.

Aerate your lawn to prevent leatherjackets

One top tip is to address poor drainage in your garden by aerating your lawn.

Not only does this avoid waterlogging, but promotes healthy airflow and helps to deliver essential nutrients directly into the ground.

“Lawns with poor drainage create a perfect environment for leatherjackets to thrive, so addressing that now can prevent an infestation taking hold,” advises Davis.

“Aerating your lawn can help improve drainage. To do this, simply create holes in the turf to allow it to breathe and encourage water to disperse.”

Also, heavily shaded gardens can create the perfect environment for leatherjackets. Another tip is to prune overgrown or thick tree branches and clear fallen leaves or any other debris on the lawn.

“Removing thick branches of overhanging trees and bushes can help more sunlight reach the turf,” Davis advises. “Some soils are better than others for drainage. For example, nutrient-dense clay soils can make gardens more prone to flooding.

“And if you often see water pooling in your garden, investigate the type of soil so you know how to nurture the lawn correctly.”

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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Spotted spongy green growth across your patio or driveway recently? You’ll want to get rid of moss quickly. And while moss might be welcome in certain parts of your yard (think Japanese garden), for the most part, it can look unsightly on our patio. Plus, it's a nuisance to remove from concrete or banish completely — especially during fall.

Typically, moss thrives in damp or humid conditions — and porous concrete is the perfect environment as it holds water easily. In addition, concrete’s texture has microscopic pores, pits, and cracks, which makes it easy for spores to penetrate and grow in these rough spots.

And while you could reach for chemical-laden treatments or blast it away with a powerful pressure washer, I’ve just discovered a common household cleaning staple that does the trick — and no, it isn’t white vinegar.

Unlike white vinegar, which is great for killing moss but is a longer process, this cleaning solution can get to work in just minutes. Best of all, we all have this product in our cleaning caddy. So why is bleach so handy?

How to banish moss with bleach

We often use bleach for killing germs, disinfecting surfaces, and getting rid of yellow stains. However, it turns out that this versatile cleaner can instantly banish moss from concrete too.

Even better, it acts fast to tackle moss in just five minutes, and the results are known to last longer in comparison to traditional vinegar methods.

So what’s the best way to use bleach on concrete patios or paths? First, sweep away any debris or leaves on the concrete surface with a bristle broom/brush before applying your treatment.

Next, experts recommend diluting one part household bleach with four to ten parts water (depending on how thick the moss is) in a pump sprayer or bucket.

Then, directly spray or pour the mixture evenly over the moss-covered concrete, before letting it sit for about 15 minutes.

Once the moss turns brown or white, simply use your stiff-bristled broom or deck brush to scrub away the dead moss, and rinse off the residue/area completely with water until clean.

What NOT to do when using bleach

Since bleach has the power to kill moss, it’s important not to spray any nearby plants or foliage. If you do, however, experts recommend watering them before wrapping them in plastic wrap to protect them from damage.

Additionally, do NOT leave bleach on the concrete surface for more than around 15 minutes, or else it may cause discoloration to the pavers. Bear in mind that bleach is highly toxic, so take precautions when using it and keep it away from children or pets. And use gloves when handling bleach if possible.

So, if you’re struggling to banish pesky moss fast, this clever tip might be sitting right inside your cleaning caddy.

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
• How to sharpen a lawn mower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

Discovering unexpected holes peppered across your lawn or garden beds can spark an immediate urge to reach for a shovel or garden hose. Before you attempt to fill them in, it helps to know what creature actually dug them — and what might be resting inside.

While homeowners might assume snakes dig tunnels across the yard, most snakes lack the physical equipment to burrow through dirt. Instead, they operate as opportunistic squatters, moving directly into underground tunnels left behind by rodents, voles, and chipmunks.

These cool subterranean spaces offer ideal shelter from heat and a hunting ground for prey. Knowing how to identify an active snake hideout can help you keep your family, pets, and property safe without unnecessarily disturbing local wildlife.

How to identify a snake hole in your yard

Because snakes do not excavate their own homes, you will not find a standard shape or uniform size. However, several distinct physical indicators can help you determine whether a snake is utilizing an existing burrow.

• Size and structure: Look for openings between 1 and 3 inches in diameter, though larger snakes can squeeze into bigger gaps. Pay close attention to crevices near rock walls, house foundations, and dense shrubbery.
  
• Lack of excavated dirt: Unlike active mammals that push fresh, loose dirt around their entrance holes while digging, a snake moving into a hole leaves no fresh soil piles.
  
• Nearby physical evidence: Check the surrounding grass and dirt for shed snake skins, smooth tail tracks in soft soil, or a complete absence of recent animal gnaw marks near the entrance.
  
• The "vacant" look: If a hole looks old or abandoned by the original rodent digger, it becomes a prime candidate for a snake seeking temperature control or shelter.

What to do if you find a snake hole

If you suspect a hole in your yard is currently harboring a snake, taking the wrong action can quickly turn a peaceful coexistence into a safety hazard.

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Fall has arrived, making September and November the perfect window for mulching flower beds to protect plants before the cooler temperatures set in.

As a thin layer of organic matter on the surface, a natural mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, introduces nutrients as it breaks down, and protects from frost when the temperature drops. Although mulching your yard seems easy enough, there’s one common problem many gardeners face afterwards that ruins their hard efforts.

Typically, after a week, unwanted grass blades begin creeping back through your bed cover until the area starts looking untidy again. And while a traditional solution would be to lay down landscaping fabric, this can often make planting new crops tricky and difficult to remove in the long run.

I’ve recently discovered a hassle-free tip to keep unwanted grass out of mulch beds. Not only does this solution work in just one hour, but it’s completely family and pet-friendly without harming nearby plants.

Use a targeted grass and weed killer to protect your beds

A quick trick is to use a grass and weed killer after mulching — but this will only work on young, newly sprouted grass blades coming through the mulch.

Once grass has matured, the spray may not be as effective at getting to work on thick grass — which might benefit from manual tools.

There are several sprays available in your gardening centers or online such as this Spruce Weed & Grass Killer for $35 on Amazon.

This spray kit is formulated from water, essential oils, and a surfactant, and can treat up to 400 weeds. Better still, it promises to work in just an hour, and the reusable bottle means you can simply buy refills instead of a new kit.

Additionally, gardening experts suggest pruning nearby foliage before applying such treatments. Trimming these surrounding stems beforehand allows for a much clearer path to target rogue shoots at their base.

Lastly, it helps to identify the exact location where grass blades keep growing, so you can apply a targeted treatment — ensuring stray growth stays out of your beds for good.

Bear in mind that this solution will only prevent the growth of young weeds and won’t tackle mature ones. If that’s the case, you’ll need to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

Of course, if you don’t want to rely on chemicals to get rid of grass and weeds in your yard, you can check out these 7 ways to kill weeds naturally. Or perhaps you might have this 39-cent weed killer alternative hiding in your laundry cupboard?

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If there is one gardening task that always feels like a chore, it’s dealing with relentless weeds.

No matter where you look — from the lush grass to the gravel paths, these just seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while there are various weed-killing remedies, I’ve always relied on my handy string trimmer to quickly rip away visible weeds before tackling the taproots.

However, it turns out that I could be making my weed problem worse — but only if used at the wrong time.

According to experts, using your string trimmer incorrectly might multiply those pesky weeds, leaving you with even more to clear. This is because mature weeds can spread themselves (through their seeds), depending on the species you’re up against.

So essentially, running your trimmer over mature, seed-filled weed heads will risk scattering them across your entire yard, and doubling your chore.

Luckily, there is a way to use your trimmer without making your weed problem worse. Here’s why.

Be sure to use your strimmer before weeds produce seeds

Experts agree that the least risky time to use it is before the weeds in your yard have full seeds.

In addition to preventing seeds from scattering across your yard, tackling young weeds early will reduce the chance of persistent garden invaders returning and ruining it.

Perhaps one caveat is that not all weeds are made to be equal, which can be problematic if you don’t know exactly which type of weed you’re dealing with.

Typically, summer annual varieties like crabgrass usually produce seeds mid-to-late season. While winter annuals such as shepherd's purse release seed heads in early summer — which will leave you tackling these invaders straight through spring.

So what’s the best course of action if you don’t know which specific weeds are taking over your yard? Experts advise you to simply use your trimmer regularly throughout the spring and summer to prevent seeds from developing and spreading.

Alternatively, if you miss that crucial window, experts suggest carefully slipping a bag right over mature seed heads before pulling them out by hand.

Of course, for true removal of stubborn weeds, you’ll have to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf. “This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels.

So before powering up your go-to string trimmer to slice through lawn weeds, ensure you tackle them before seed production. The last thing you need is extra yard work later on.

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• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
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Now that the heatwave is over and the new season begins — our grass might be looking a little worse for wear. This is especially the case if you’ve ended up with a patchy brown lawn that needs some TLC.

What’s more, you’ll want lush, healthy grass all year round by maintaining a good lawn care routine. So how can you revive your patchy lawn after the drought?

Luckily, a lawn expert has revealed that September is the ideal time to begin sowing new seeds — but this only works if you do one vital task before you start. In fact, it’s one of the simplest things that we often forget to do and will make all the difference to the results of our hard efforts.

So, before you start sprinkling your bag of grass seeds, don’t forget to do this one crucial check first.

Check the weather forecast

Since fall weather is so unpredictable, experts suggest you always check your local forecast before seeding, as these conditions can easily ruin germination.

“September is the best time to sow new grass seed, but it’s so important to check the forecast, identifying the temperature and rainfall trends,” advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

“The new seeds will need around two weeks of stable conditions to germinate and establish their first roots; severe weather changes can interrupt the process and leave seeds vulnerable.”

Additionally, you’ll need to get the right balance and ensure the conditions are not too dry or too cold. Both of which can stall the development of your grass seeds, leading to a costly failure where they simply die.

“It only takes a minute, but missing this step could result in a whole bag of seed being wasted,” adds McIIroy. “The soil needs to remain 50°F or above, and you need some rainfall, any frosty nights could interrupt germination.

“If drought conditions continue, grass seed will shrivel and die before it has a chance to germinate. But equally, too much rain can waterlog soil and drown seeds. Not checking the forecast can be a costly mistake, especially when starting a new lawn from scratch.”

However, a little patience will pay off. And he suggests it’s far better to hold out for the ideal environment rather than rushing and wasting your grass seed. Plus, after a parched summer, your lawn must be truly ready for overseeding.

Top tips before seeding your lawn in September

First, you’ll need to remove any debris, tree branches, or dead vegetation to give your new grass the best starting chance.

Additionally, if you find that your grass is parched, you’ll need to know how to aerate your lawn to loosen the soil and allow air and all the nutrients it needs to thrive.

“The new seeds will need good seed-to-soil contact, and if your turf is dry and compacted, you need to scarify and aerate to loosen the soil, ensuring nutrients, air and water can flow easily through the turf,” advises McIlroy.

“Applying a layer of high-quality topsoil also provides an environment for new seeds to thrive in, and a fertiliser can also provide a nutrient boost.”

Another top tip is to get a starter fertilizer that can help to strengthen the young roots as they grow. “Starter fertilisers differ from regular lawn feeds,” McIIroy adds.

“They’re formulated with extra phosphorus to help young roots develop. When you’re sowing new seed, that early root growth is more important than the colour and length on top.

“While September is usually the best time to sow, but it can extend into October if the temperatures allow.”

For more tips and tricks, check out our ultimate lawn care guide for healthy, lush grass. Apart from sowing seed, September is also the ideal month to carry out other key lawn maintenance.

Lawncare essentials we love

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Between the summer heatwave and a strictly enforced watering restrictions, my yard didn't stand a chance. By late August, it looked like a doormat. Straw-like and baked dry — it was tempting to accept defeat and leave it till next year.

Then I caught myself and remembered: a brown lawn is usually just dormant and playing defense. As cool weather and seasonal rain roll in, fall offers the ultimate window for a full comeback. If you follow the right recovery plan.

If you want to transform your drought-damaged lawn into a lush, resilient yard before winter hits, here's what you need to do.

1. Aerate compacted soil

Heat and foot traffic compact soil throughout summer, restricting air and water movement to the root zone. Aeration removes small plugs of soil, opening pathways for water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the roots.

Fall aeration is particularly effective because the lawn recovers during its peak growing season. You can rent an aerator, hire a professional, or use a manual aerator or garden fork for smaller lawns.

Aerate when soil is moist but not waterlogged. This ensures the plugs pull cleanly without clogging. Leave the soil plugs on the lawn to break down naturally.

Aeration combined with deep watering dramatically improves recovery because water and nutrients now reach the roots more effectively.

2. Overseed bare patches and thin areas

Heat stress creates bare spots where grass dies back completely. Fall is ideal for overseeding because cooler temperatures and increased rainfall help new seeds germinate.

Start by lightly raking dead material out of bare patches. This removes the thatch layer and allows seeds to contact the soil.

Scatter new grass seed over thinned areas and keep the soil consistently moist until the grass establishes. The key here is consistency. Uneven watering disrupts germination, so check daily and water lightly if rain doesn't fall.

New grass filling in before winter means you'll have a fuller lawn by spring instead of waiting until next summer to see improvement.

3. Water deeply rather than frequently

A struggling lawn needs deep watering, not daily sprinkles. Short, frequent waterings encourage shallow roots that can't access moisture deep in the soil when drought returns

Deep watering forces roots to grow deeper, creating a stronger root system that supports the grass through stress.

Water once every few days, applying enough to soak six inches down. Early morning or late evening watering minimizes evaporation and reduces scorching risk.

You'll know you're watering deeply enough when moisture penetrates the soil without pooling on the surface.

4. Apply lawn fertilizer as growth resumes

Heat and drought deplete soil nutrients, leaving your grass unable to grow vigorously. Once temperatures cool and the grass begins active growth again, a quality slow-release fertilizer supports recovery.

Timing matters. Apply fertilizer only when the soil is moist and the grass is actively growing, not when conditions are still dry.

Follow application instructions carefully, as over-fertilizing can damage recovering grass. Slow-release formulas feed gradually, supporting consistent growth without shocking stressed plants.

The fertilizer replenishes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that heat stress depletes. Combined with improved watering and aeration, fertilizer helps your lawn shift from survival mode to genuine recovery and growth.

5. Strengthen roots with liquid seaweed

Liquid seaweed conditions soil while encouraging deeper root growth and improving nutrient uptake. Regular applications help grass recover faster from heat stress and build resilience against future droughts.

Seaweed provides trace minerals alongside growth-promoting compounds that strengthen the grass from the root level up.

Apply it every three to four weeks during the growing season. Healthier roots mean the grass retains moisture better, stays greener during dry periods, and recovers more quickly when conditions improve.

While this isn't a quick fix, this recovery plan builds long-term lawn health — laying the quiet groundwork now so come next spring, you'll have a lush lawn instead of staring at a sea of straw.

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Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher or simply enjoy the beauty of colorful hummingbirds in your backyard, you might benefit from having a nest to make your garden more inviting.

And since I love nothing more than watching beautiful birds hovering around, I’ve just found the perfect hummingbird house for my garden (who knew?).

The Hummingbird House at Amazon consists of three wooden nesting spots designed to accommodate their tiny 4-inch body size. It also provides shelter and warmth, and a groove on top offers food, making it the ideal home.

Not only can they live safely inside, away from predators, but these hummingbird nests will instantly spruce up your yard.

Here’s why I’ll be buying a few to create a hummingbird haven.

How to use a hummingbird house

Perhaps what caught my attention was just how beautiful these wooden nests look. And unlike traditional boxy bird feeders, they won’t look out of place with my garden style. Handcrafted from pine wood, these nests also have a natural aroma that’s known to entice more hummingbirds into your outdoor space — even better.

You simply hang these nests on a sturdy pole or tree and watch the hummingbirds flock to their resting spots. I also love the way it’s designed with a neat food storage and feeder at the top of the ‘house’ and a drainage hole at the bottom to ensure it’s kept clean.

Best of all, hummingbirds will love their homes, as it will provide a cozy and safe haven all year round!

Things not to feed hummingbirds

Similar to knowing how to feed birds in winter, it’s useful to know the right types of food to give to hummingbirds. These would need to be suited to their species, offering the nutritional value that they need.

Bread — While it’s tempting to feed scraps, bread has no nutritional value for birds and will only fill up their stomachs. This will prevent them from eating sufficient seeds and grains with more nutritional benefits.

Meat — Never add raw meat to the feeder as this can attract unwanted guests like rodents, cats or foxes. Plus, meat will spoil very quickly and can be fatal to birds.

Salt — Too much salt is toxic for birds and can affect their nervous system. This includes salted nuts or other heavily salted foodstuffs.

Household food scraps — These won’t be appealing to birds and will only attract rodents or foxes to the feeder. Plus, any food cooked in oil or garlic will be harmful to birds.

It's advisable to stick with a suitable bird food mix, or you could try this simple nectar recipe, which will attract hummingbirds to your yard.

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It’s been a rough summer on our yards. Extended heatwaves and dry spells have left many gardens looking parched and depleted, and I’ve missed the abundance of color that I‘ve come to expect during peak season.

If the summer scorcher left you feeling depondent, don’t despair; fall offers a fresh start. September is the ideal time to rest, enrich your soil and get new plants in the ground. And with cooler temperatures on the horizon, your yard will soon be full of golden autumnal color.

Here are the top 5 plants I recommend adding to your yard this September for a rich kaleidoscope of fall hues.

1. Rudbeckia

Rudbeckias — commonly known as black-eyed Susans — bring an instant splash of bright color to a fall yard. Their golden petals and bold centers radiate a sunny disposition, making them a standout choice for fall color. Beyond their cheerful appearance, rudbeckias are low-maintenance plants and magnets for pollinators, too.

How to plant

Position in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, into well-draining soil. To extend the flowering period, deadhead the plants by pinching off the blooms at the base of the stem, or cut them back after they flower to encourage a second surge.

Rudbeckias are suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

2. Sedum

Sedums are a winner in the late summer and early fall, and if your garden has experienced a tough summer season of hot, dry weather, they are a firm survivor. The flowers are loved by bees and butterflies, and the beautiful seed heads remain stunning into winter.

How to plant

Choose a sunny spot that receives at least six hours of full sun a day. If your soil is poor at draining, loosen the soil before planting and add sand, grit or perlite to encourage better drainage. Sedums shouldn’t need additional water, as their fleshy leaves store water, making them perfect for dry regions.

Sedums do well in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

3. Heuchera

Heucheras are grown for their foliage, rather than their flowers, and they make a stunning statement at the front of a border. I love the bright hues of lime green heuchera, which won’t fail to add a vibrant pop of color to your fall garden, but if you prefer more rustic tones, you can opt for burgundy or russet foliage.

How to plant

Place the plant in rich, well-drained soil in a spot that receives 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, if you have heavy clay soil, amend it to improve drainage before planting. If planting multiples, place 1-2 feet apart.

Heucheras perform well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but do check the variety.

4. Japanese anemone

Japanese anemones have elegant flowers that will add a light touch and graceful movement to any garden. They will brighten any shady corner with their stunning blooms and create a striking visual contrast when planted with grasses. Even better, for low-maintenance gardeners, their sturdy stems rarely need staking, and they are generally free of pests and diseases. Plus, their late-season blooms provide a feast for pollinators.

How to plant

Plant in full sun to partial shade, and protect the foliage and blooms from afternoon sun in hot climates. Japanese anemones thrive in moist, fertile, well-draining soil, but don’t like soils that remain cold and wet during winter. The roots will benefit from a layer of mulch in late fall to protect them from frost.

Japanese anemones do well in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, but check your variety before planting.

5. Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses introduce texture and movement, catching the breeze, to give your garden a natural, relaxed feel. Their delicate seed heads add visual interest heading into late fall and winter, while their fine foliage softens hard landscaping and bold planting.

While many ornamental grasses turn golden brown in the fall, Pink Muhly Grass explodes into a cloudy haze of cotton-candy pink. For something a little more understated, you might prefer Japanese Forest Grass, with golden foliage that turns to copper and orange.

How to plant

Select a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day and well-draining soil — waterlogged earth will cause their roots to rot. Keep in mind that light requirements vary by species; for instance, Japanese Forest Grass prefers shade, so always check the plant label first.

Guidelines vary depending on which species and variety you pick, but most ornamental grasses will thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3 through to 9.

September is also the perfect time to divide perennials — giving you extra plants for free. And don't forget that September is a key month in the lawn care calendar.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 vegetable seeds to sow in September for bountiful fall harvests
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Back in 2024, not satisfied with sippy cups and coolboxes, outdoor gear manufacturer Yeti purchased Mystery Ranch, a well-established maker of load-bearing backpacks for the hunting, fire and tactical markets. One of the first fruits of that acquisition is the Yeti Skala hiking pack. Bearing many similarities to some of Mystery Ranch’s packs (only less ‘tactical’ and more lifestyle-y), the Skala range is designed for hikers needing packs for single- or multi-day hikes.

I’ve been using the Skala 32L day pack and the 50L multi-day pack for several months now. I’ve hiked with them, camped with them, travelled with them, flown with them, and even commuted with them. And I’m a huge fan. From the effortless weight distribution to the high levels of adjustability and capacious storage compartment, the Skala is an excellent choice for outdoorsing.

The Skala isn’t totally perfect: it’s kinda pricey and I wish it came with a cover given the bag itself isn’t fully waterproofed. But if you’re in the market for a new pack, I’d still highly recommend this one. Find out more in my full Yeti Skala review.

Yeti Skala review: Specs

Yeti Skala review: Price & availability

The Skala starts at $300 for the 32L day pack, rising to: $325 for the 40L; $375 for the 50L; and $400 for the 60L. This is fairly pricey given you can pick up a 65L North Face Terra 65 for $210 or a 65L Osprey Rook for $196 at the time of writing.

Both the Terra and Rook offer equivalent features to the Skala, while the Rook also comes with a waterproof cover. The Skala, meanwhile, offers an incredible amount of adjustability and customization. While pricey, I don’t think the MSRP is totally beyond the pale either, and if you’re a keen hiker then the Skala’s sheer level of adjustability (and therefore comfort) may happily justify the extra spend.

Each Skala variant is available in men’s and women’s variants, and in either S/M L/XL, to suit different body shapes. The packs are available in gray, blue and a seasonal color — venom green (men’s) and hot bloom pink (women’s) at the time of writing.

Yeti Skala review: Design & storage

The Skala boasts a huge number of design features intended for ease of use on the trail. The Y-shaped zipper — featured on some Mystery Ranch backpacks — is one of my favorite features. It makes the backpack easy to pack, but also makes it way quicker and less disruptive to find something at the bottom of the bag.

There are two drink pockets at the sides which use stretchy material to accommodate both small and large bottles. On the 50L and 60L packs, the side drink pockets are dual access, so you can slide a bottle in from the top or side — the latter is a lot easier to reach while walking.

All sizes have frontal pockets using the same stretchy material. On the 32L and 40L packs these pockets are primarily for general storage, although on the two larger packs they’re big enough to accommodate water bottles, too — on my 50L pack, I was able to fit a 1.2L Thermos flask, a 1.4L Nalgene and a 1L Nalgene in the front and side pockets, with a front pocket spare for a fourth bottle if I wanted. There’s a water bladder pouch inside, just like the North Face Terra and Osprey Rook, but no opening for running a tube outside the bag.

The Skala’s main compartment is extremely spacious, as it’s literally just an open storage bin. When you need to really fill the bag, adjustable straps on the side let the pack expand a little. You can then use the same straps to compress the bag back down — I found this useful when I flew with the Skala and needed to ensure it fit in the plane’s overhead compartments.

I tended to use the 32L pack for most trips, including short camps, hiking and travelling — it fit enough clothes and essentials for several days. For longer camps where I needed to pack cooking gear and sleeping stuff, the 50L was also plenty spacious for 2-3 days, and I’m not a light packer, so I’m sure you could stretch that further.

Unfortunately, there’s no real compartment division save a small pouch at the back, so everything will just be floating around in the pack, but that’s only an issue when using the day packs half full with fragile items in there, like laptops and cameras. This is normal for hiking backpacks.

There’s a spacious top pocket and two waistband pockets, which I found very useful for storing my quick-access items — sun cream, cleansing wipes, my passport, etc. The two larger sizes also have a sleeping bag pouch at the base, allowing you to fit a bag inside the pack. There are also webbing straps underneath for bigger bags or your sleeping mat.

The webbing above the front and side pockets is also very useful for carrying and fastening larger items, like tripods, poles, or snow picks. I made use of this to carry my Insta360 X6’s heavy duty selfie stick when out testing the camera for my review.

The Skala is water resistant but not waterproof. No waterproof cover is included, unlike the Osprey Rook. The 50L and 60L have an extra internal cover under the main opening for increased water and snow resistance. But if you’re going to be hiking in wet weather, I’d recommend taking a bag cover or packing your items in dry bags inside the Skala.

Most of the pack’s outer is made of water-resistant polyethylene, although the lid and base use reinforced TPU nylon for extra durability. My 32L Skala has taken the heaviest use, as I’ve used it for commuting. Although the base is scuffed, it’s showing no signs of serious wear.

Yeti Skala review: Comfort & performance

Almost every aspect of the Skala can be adjusted to fit precisely to your body. There’s a sternum strap which is adjustable up and down on both sides to help you best fit your chest. The yoke and frame are also adjustable so you can tailor the height of the pack perfectly relative to your neck and shoulders. There’s an adjustable waist strap, and straps all over the bag to tighten or loosen individual elements as required.

The result is a wonderfully comfortable backpack. When adjusted properly, the weight is distributed very effectively from your back and shoulders and channeled to your chest and waist, although primarily the latter. That means you can carry more for longer, as your hips are bearing most of the load. Walking and hiking up hills, even with the loaded 50L pack, was a cinch.

I also travelled with the 32L completely full on several occasions — it was often extremely heavy as they were partly stuffed with cameras, my laptop and other tech. The frame channeled all the weight down to my chest and hips, so I experienced no back or shoulder pain while walking. I also loved that the 32L, even when full, was still compact enough to go into overhead cabin storage on a flight to Copenhagen for a press trip.

I also commuted to work on my motorcycle using the 32L day pack. Believe me, on a motorcycle where you’re sat leaning forward, most backpacks start to hurt in under an hour. In fact, with my normal North Face day pack, I can feel circulation getting cut in my arms and hands after just 20 minutes. With the Skala’s phenomenal weight distribution, I’ve been able to ride with no issues whatsoever. I’d even consider using the Skala on short motorcycle tours — any fellow bikers will know that’s high praise indeed.

The Skala’s back and shoulder padding is extremely thick and comfortable, but also breathable. I like that Yeti has designed it to reduce contact, too. No matter how breathable, padding that touches your back always gets hot after a while. Naturally, you can adjust the padding height to find the best fit for you.

Yeti Skala review: Verdict

Admittedly, the Yeti Skala isn’t perfect. It’s pricier than rivals, and I really wish it came with either better waterproofing credentials or a cover. But the Skala has still become my go-to backpack, not just for hikes and camping, but literally everything. The 32L day pack in particular is ideal for everything from commutes to day trips and even multi-day vacations.

What makes this backpack so great are the weight-distributing features and supremely high level of adjustability. These let the Skala effectively spread almost the entire load of the pack to your hips, so you barely feel the weight on your back. Combined with the excellent build quality and ample storage, the Skala is going to be my workhorse for years to come — or rather, it's going to make me the workhorse!

I'm a total newbie when it comes to the benefits of solar panels, but I just got my first taste of free power after a weekend camping trip with the Jackery Explorer Solar Generator 2000 ($999 @ Amazon), and I'm hooked. Roughly the size of one of the best drink coolers (just a darn sight heavier), this portable power station gave me all the electricity I needed during 48 hours away from the grid and still had some left to spare.

If you've not yet taken the plunge on a solar generator then there are plenty of affordable alternatives to get you started, but I can't fault the usefulness of the Jackery Explorer and plan to make it a mainstay of future camping trips.

At a buck shy of a grand without the solar panels you’re going to want to accessorize it with, the Jackery Explorer 2000 is something of an upfront cost. Amazon sells the 200W panels for $429 each, so buying both together will set you back $1,428. The retailer is also is selling a bundle of the power station with two panels for $1,639 — which saves you a bit of cash if you want to double up. But leaving that aside, Jackery also has a range of different power stations with varying capacities at different price points. For example, the Jackery Explorer 500v2 is a more wallet-friendly $399 (discounted to $359 at time of writing).

These prices may give you reason to pause. But, like any form of renewable energy, it’s an investment rather than a sunk cost. For example, campsites in the UK will charge you anything between £5 and £15 extra per night for a pitch with an electrical hookup. So over the course of a three-day weekend, I could save up to £45 ($61) just by bringing the Jackery Explorer instead. If I do this three times over the summer, that’s up to £135 ($184) saved.

And even when I’m not using it for camping, like my colleague Tom, it’s providing additional power to my garage for free. Okay, so all that is a bit of an oversimplification, but Jackery’s batteries are slated to last up to 10 years with 80% remaining after 4,000 full charge cycles. So there’s a good chance that over the course of a decade, you’ll make your money back. Eventually.

What you get

I packed the Jackery Explorer 2000 into the car for a three-day trip during the height of summer. We were in the middle of a UK-wide heatwave, with temperatures sitting around 32°C (89.6°F) and just a few wispy clouds populating the sky. So, it was the perfect testing ground for a portable solar power station.

The Explorer weighs 39.5lbs (17.9kgs), which is impressive for the 2042Wh capacity but still prohibitive for carrying large distances — so keep that in mind if you park the car a long way from where you pitch camp. Jackery does say the Explorer 2000 is “41% lighter and 34% smaller than conventional 2kWh LiFePo4 portable power stations” as it uses the same CTB (Cell-to-Body) technology you’ll find in the best electric cars. There’s a very helpful carry handle, and I was able to bring it easily back and forth between the inside of my tent and the seating area we’d created to socialize.

I tend to travel light, so the only electronics I really needed to worry about were a pair of smartphones, a Bluetooth speaker, an electric kettle and a pump for inflating a mattress. The phones and speaker were serviced by the two USB-C ports (one 30W and one 100W) and one USB-A (18W) port, while the kettle plugged into one of the two AC 2,200W sockets on the front. High-wattage devices like that kettle are going to empty the battery quickly, but more on that later. My British model has two AC sockets, but the American version packs three — bonus points to Uncle Sam. Finally, the pump could be plugged into the DC 12 V input as if I was using my car’s cigarette lighter.

The controls on the Jackery Explorer 2000 are extremely simple to use. Hold down the power button for a few seconds to wake it up, and then the remaining buttons let you toggle between the AC and DC outputs. There’s also a built-in LED light with three modes: Low Light, High Light and SOS. Meanwhile, the LCD display tells you the current percentage, input/output power and your remaining charge time. It’s all remarkably simple to use, which is exactly what you want when you’re struggling to get a campsite set up in time for dinner.

How I used it

Over the course of two nights, I kept all the phones topped off and used the pump three times (I need a new air mattress) while I boiled the kettle at least six or seven times. At around 9pm, I switched on the LED light and kept it up for a couple of hours until it was bedtime at around 11pm.

I started the weekend with a full charge of 100% and when it was time to pack up and go home, I was down to 42%. I kept the Explorer 2000 topped up for a few hours here and there, but mostly I relied on the accumulated charge from the mains that I put into the battery before leaving the house.

As mentioned, the only real draw on the power was the kettle, which was pulling pretty much the full 2,200W output to run and easily dropping the battery down several percentage points each time I used it.

If you’re looking at a multi-day trip with energy-hungry devices like one of the best electric bikes or electric stoves, you’re going to run out of power far quicker than I did.

What’s more, I didn’t have anything like a fridge continuously running from the Explorer 2000 — I just pulled it out when required. If you’re powering a portable refrigerator at 90W, you can expect to get about 15 hours of runtime. My usage was relatively tame, but if you’re planning more adventurous multi-day trips, you’re going to need to get the most from your solar panels.

Charging: solar vs the mains

You don’t necessarily have to buy the official Jackery solar panels, but if you opt for a (cheaper) third-party option from Amazon, you’re going to need an adaptor. Jackery’s 200W solar panels connect via an included DC8020 solar charging cable that plugs directly into the side of the power station and it begins charging right away. A side note here is that it does so very quietly — if you get right down next to it, you can hear a faint whirr. But I’d bet the average hiker could leave this running next to them and fall asleep without being disturbed.

The good news is that, like the power station itself, the solar panel is extremely easy to use. All you need to do is unfold it, pull the kickstands away from their velcro fastening and connect them to the power station.

At a full 400W solar input from two panels, Jackery says you can charge the Explorer 2000 up in five-and-a-half hours. I, meanwhile, had only a single 100W panel with me. The good news was, as mentioned, it was a very sunny weekend, and I was easily able to get the full 100W input from the panel. Generally speaking, you get around four to six peak sun hours per day. At 100W, it'd take me around 20 hours to fully charge the power station, which probably equates to around four days of charging.

On the other hand, connecting it to the mains juices the power station from empty to full in just 1.7 hours. You can enable emergency charging via the Jackery app to cut that down even further to 1.33 hours — or from 0-80% in 52 minutes.

So, yes, solar is free, but it’s also time-consuming and heavily reliant on where you are. Despite this summer’s efforts, the U.K. is not known for sunshine, and if you’re staying somewhere with a lot of cloud cover or underneath foliage, this option won’t be as readily available to you. My advice would be to opt for a 200W solar panel if you can stretch to it, to maximise the amount of energy you can harvest when the sun does come out.

You’re always going to lose some energy through conversion and thermal dissipation when you’re pulling power from the sun. So you need to be mindful of not wasting the opportunity to power up when you can. The distinct benefit of having such a portable solution means it's not a chore to set up, even for an hour or so. I was able to get the panels out of the car and have the power station topping up (albeit slowly) in under thirty seconds.

One thing to add is that Jackery's panels are IP68 water and dust-resistant, so you don’t have to treat them with kid gloves during a weekend in the wilderness.

Final thoughts

There’s a lot more to the Jackery Explorer 2000 than I’ve gone into here. Things like the durability testing, the rigorous battery management system and the five-year warranty are all worthy of praise. But the main thing I found was that the system was reliable and easy to use for someone with almost no prior knowledge of portable power beyond the best battery packs you get for your phone.

That’s important because although it’s great to have portable power to keep your iPhone charged up on a camping trip, portable generators can go much further. When Hurricane Beryl knocked out power for my colleague Anthony Spadafora back in 2024, he was able to give his mother-in-law a portable generator to keep her freezer and lights running for awhile in the ensuing power outage. It may be 2026, but power outages are not a thing of the past and if you’ve got a device like the Jackery Explorer 2000 on hand, it gives you a measure of protection to keep vital services powered on.

And that’s an investment that’s worth making right now. Even if it spends most of the year keeping the Bluetooth speaker in your garage topped up.

More from Tom's Guide

• Expert reveals the one solar panel mistake costing you money — and how to fix it
• I just tested this portable solar panel to charge my phone — and it works a lot better than I thought
• 13 Coleman camping deals perfect for end of summer adventures — save up to 40% on tents, grills and more

The countdown to Father's Day 2026 is officially on, with just 9 days to go until Sunday, September 6 in Australia.

With Aussie spring just around the corner, if your dad loves his garden or going camping, then Father's Day is a great time to get him some new outdoorsy gear. Whether he's an avid gardener, outdoor chef or just a guy who enjoys sitting out in his yard in the sunshine, I've sorted 12 of the best outdoor Father's Day gifts below.

All of these items come with 4-star reviews on Amazon, and same-day or fast delivery, so your gift will arrive perfectly on (or before) the big day. So scroll on to find the best Father's Day gardening and outdoor gifts for dad this year.

More from Tom's Guide

• Forget socks — shop these 30 expert-picked skincare and haircare buys for dad this Father's Day
• Forget a new tie — I've found 15 of the best Father's Day tech gifts that will make you his favourite child
• Gamer dad? I've found 11 winning Father's Day gaming ideas to level up your gifting
• Run, don't walk — I've spotted 9 of the best fitness Father's Day gifts that'll help dad work on his #DadBod

I'm a mediocre cook. My girlfriend is a tremendous cook. Together, we spent a year testing the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 pellet grill and smoker to see whether it was the right tool for our outdoor cooking needs.

After more than 365 days of smoking, searing, rotisserie cooking and basic grilling, I can say with 100% confidence that this Recteq grill offers enough versatility to handle everything a seasoned grill master could throw at it, while still being easy enough for someone of my less-skilled nature to handle.

The versatility comes at a fairly high cost, but compared with other pellet-based grills from brands like Traeger and Weber, the price doesn't feel unreasonable.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Price and availability

The X-Fire Pro 825 is available from a wide range of high-end grill retailers, including directly from Recteq's website. It's $1550, which may sound shocking compared with a basic propane grill from your local hardware store, but it's very competitive with other big brands like Traeger and Weber.

You can also get the grill as part of a bundle. Two bundles are available, and one includes the rotisserie, which I highly recommend to complete the cooking experience this grill offers. It also comes with lots of accessories, sauces, rubs and pellets to get you started.

However you buy it, I think the price is right around what it should be for a grill of this caliber.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Design

The grill itself is built like a tank, so you don't need to worry about leaving it on your porch. And it's a good-looking grill, too.

Like many high-end grills on the market, this pellet model offers more precision and temperature control while delivering that smoky flavor. You can fit 20 pounds of pellets into the hopper, which is plenty to smoke those delicious meats for hours without needing to top off the grill.

The cast iron cooking surface is 840 square inches, so you can fit large items or a massive quantity of smaller grilled meats like chicken breasts, hot dogs or burgers.

The left side of the grill has basic controls and probe spots for tracking meat temperatures (it comes with two probes that also display the temperature in the app and alert you when your food reaches the target temperature).

Four knobs adorn the front of the grill (along with the cool horn-style handles)— there's the smoke and grill mode knob, the grill control options for the left and right burners, and the sear control knob, which opens up the fire to get that nice crust we all love on our grilled meats.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Cooking performance

I can't find anything wrong with the grilling performance of the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825. We used it for low-and-slow smoking at 225 degrees for food like chicken wings, candied bacon, ribs and just about anything else you can think of. My girlfriend smoked a turkey breast for Thanksgiving, and it gave me a brand new respect for how good turkey can be.

Using the app and connected features makes smoking incredibly easy. All you need to do is set the grill to your desired temperature, set the probe temperature and then go about your business (assuming you're not cooking something that requires turning). As I've said over and over, I'm not a good cook, but even I was able to smoke some quality food with the Recteq X-Fire Pro 825.

We also did high-temperature grilling with burgers, hot dogs and more basic grill fare, and everything was consistent and delicious. Like any grill, you won't simply set it and forget it, as you will need to watch for over-searing and burning, but that's part of the fun of being the grillmaster.

The optional rotisserie really shouldn't be optional. You can make some absolutely mind-blowing dishes with it as long as you're patient and willing to let the process happen. I've always loved rotisserie chicken, and being able to throw a bird on and make one at home has been a game-changer.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Living with it

So now we need to talk about what it's like to live with the X-Fire Pro 825 for a year. It's one thing to grill with it for a bit and then move on, but we've spent a full year with it as our only grill — we ditched our basic propane model in favor of this beast.

I learned a lot about grilling during this time; I still consider myself a poor chef, but the recipes in the Recteq app have helped tremendously. I feel comfortable making a variety of dishes, and my girlfriend can confidently make just about anything, though she doesn't follow the recipes as much.

Cleaning the grill isn't overly difficult, but it is a process that you need to do to keep the grill running at its best. Since you're burning pellets and not just running propane, there's some buildup that needs to be taken care of every so often. Most importantly, as I've learned through experience, is emptying the fire pots regularly. Recteq recommends cleaning the cooking surface with a brush after every cook, and I tried to stay on top of this, but there were definitely times I didn't, and it hasn't had any long-term negative effects yet.

Overall, it's been a great year. I really like the X-Fire Pro 825, and I'm proud to have it as my only grill (besides my Ooni pizza oven, but that's another story). We've had large gatherings with more than 50 people and had no issues with having enough space to keep everyone fed and happy.

I did have one instance where the grill ran out of pellets, and the temperature dropped. For whatever reason, I didn't get a notification that the grill's heat levels were dropping, which the app usually does. If this happened often, I'd be concerned, but since it only happened once, I have to assume there was some user error (maybe I missed the notification or accidentally turned on Do Not Disturb).

After that, I purposely let the grill run out of pellets to see whether it would alert me that the temperature was dropping, and it did so without issue.

Recteq X-Fire Pro 825 review: Verdict

I love almost everything about the X-Fire Pro 825. Recteq seems to have thought of everything before putting this grill out. The seamless smart features that let you track the grill and food temperature are easy to use, and they make cooking foods that take several hours much easier (smoking, as delicious as it is, tests one's patience).

While I wish I could see the temperature in grill mode (if for nothing else than to brag to my guests about my grill hitting 1,250 degrees, that gripe hardly keeps me from recommending this grill to anyone who will listen. I also wish Rectec sold a pizza accessory for this specific model (the company's pizza kit supports the Deck Boss, Backyard Beast, Flagship, Flagship XL, BFG, RT590, RT1070 and RT1250; the X-Fire Pro 825 isn't on the list), but that's a pretty minor gripe as this is meant to be a grill and not take the place of one of the best pizza ovens.

Simply put, if you want a flexible pellet grill that can smoke and cook at ultra-high temperatures (and why wouldn't you want that?), this is the one to buy. Sure, Recteq doesn't get as much hype as Traeger and the other premium brands, but the people who know about the quality the brand offers are fully on board, and I'm now happily among that crowd.

Hummingbirds are among the most popular wildlife species that visit our yards; they are beautiful. That’s why I wanted to discover if hummingbirds will keep coming back to the same spot year after year, and if so, how we can make their survival easier.

I posed the question to Bob Mulvihill, lead ornithologist at the National Aviary, to learn more about hummingbirds’ behavior.

Hummingbird's are creatures of habit

“Like many migratory birds, hummingbirds navigate to the same spots each year for breeding and wintering,” explains Mulvihill.

“Banding studies prove that some hummingbirds even find their way to the same rest spot along the migratory route.”

And it turns out that hummingbirds have excellent spatial memories, which is why they can return year after year.

For us, this means that if you welcomed hummingbirds into your backyard last year, it’s highly likely that the same birds will appear this year. Hummingbirds are creatures of habit.

“People often report seeing hummingbirds in early spring hovering at the exact spot where the hummingbird feeder hung the year before,” says Mulvihill.

So what happens if you change your habits? Fortunately, it won’t throw the birds off course.

Mulvihill explains that if you decide to move your hummingbird feeder, or even if a person has moved on and there’s no longer a feeder around, it won’t cause much distress.

Hummingbirds find feeders easy to spot.

It seems that if you do move your feeder to another place in your backyard, your regular visitors will still be able to find it. The bright color makes it easy to identify.

Mulvihill explains, “Because the color red is so attention-getting — especially against a spring or summer green background — hummingbirds have an easy time finding feeders and flowers wherever they may be, and wherever they may pop up tomorrow!”

3 ways to make life easier for hummingbirds

Although Mulvihill says hummingbirds won’t be put out if the previous hummingbird feeder they relied upon for nectar has been moved, there are steps you can take to improve the life and well-being of these tiny creatures.

1. Keep them fed and watered

“Hummingbirds will benefit greatly if everyone would provide flowers and clean feeders filled with fresh sugar and water from spring through to fall, and, if possible, a source of flowing or misting water for them, too,” he advises.

You can make your own hummingbird nectar using a simple water-and-sugar combo, mixing one part sugar with four parts water.

The nectar can be added to a hummingbird feeder, and if you want to catch them in action, you could invest in a smart hummingbird feeder. However, a standard red feeder with yellow nectar ports that replicate a flower is ideal.

Don’t forget about the power of plants. Aside from providing sugared water, hummingbirds will flock to your yard if it’s planted with nectar-rich flowers, like the cup and saucer vine.

Apart from providing calorie-rich nectar, hummingbirds will welcome a regular source of water. They particularly like misting devices, as traditional bird baths are too deep for their tiny frames. The fine spray will help them stay hydrated and act as a shower to keep their feathers clean and their bodies cool.

2. Avoid window collisions

Hummingbirds are frequent victims of bird-window collisions, so to help them spot a window before it’s too late, Mulvihull recommends making your window panes bird-safe.

One way to prevent hummingbirds from cascading into your windows is to add barriers or marks to your glazing. The International Hummingbird Society, suggests adding lines or shapes, which are at least 1/4inch wide in light or high-contrast colors. And it recommends spacing them no more than two inches apart horizontally or 4 inches apart vertically.

You might also want to try opaque window film, such as the Collidescape white bird film, $29 at Amazon.

Finding the ideal spot for your hummingbird feeders will also help. Mulvihull suggests positioning your feeder at least 25 feet away from any windows.

3. Be pet aware

Nesting season for hummingbirds, which varies by region, is a prime time for predators. So, if you own a pet, Mulvihull advises being extra vigilant during this time.

And he suggests keeping your cat restrained or indoors. Hummingbirds will avoid nesting in an area that’s patrolled by predators — and to them that includes your cat or dog.

Unlike other birds, hummingbirds won’t nest in birdhouses; instead, they build their nests in tree limbs and on other horizontal surfaces. The National Audubon Society suggests maintaining shrubbery and planting small deciduous trees in your backyard to provide hummingbirds with a safe nesting place.

More from Tom's Guide

• Don’t make this hummingbird mistake — why you need to think beyond the color red
• This one plant is the secret to attracting hummingbirds to your yard in September
• 3 easy steps to protect visiting hummingbirds from the summer heat

The promise of many smart home devices is that they can free your time up to do other things, but how often is that reflected in reality?

We could finally be there with robot lawnmowers. I’ve been using the Segway Navimow i215 in my yard for the last few months, and a few exceptions aside, I haven’t thought about mowing my lawn for a long time. But is the Navimow i215 the best robot lawnmower for your yard? It depends on a lot of factors, such as the size and slope of your grass, but there are a few universal takeaways I found from testing this, as well as several other robot lawnmowers.

Read on to see how well the Navimow i215 performed for me, and if I’d pick it over other models.

Picking the right size

When I first talked with Segway about reviewing one of its lawnmowers, I initially requested the Navimow X4, the company’s top-end device that costs $2,500, can tackle just about any terrain, and has independent wheels that allow it to make zero-degree turns. It’s a truly impressive mower — and it proved to be too much for my yard.

The main reason I requested the X4 is that my front yard, despite being very small, is on a bit of a hill that in the past proved too daunting for some robot lawnmowers. However, after running the X4 for a while, I noticed that it would repeatedly skip over certain sections. Confused, I talked with Segway, which said that because my lawn was so small — we’re talking less than 500 square feet — it had trouble taking care of it properly.

Segway then sent me the Navimow i215, which costs about $1,000 less, and is more suited for mid-size to smaller yards.

Price and availability

The i215 is the newest of Segway’s mid-tier robot lawnmowers. It came on the market in 2026, costs $1,599, can cover up to 0.37 acres, and uses both LiDAR and vision systems to map and navigate your yard.

It’s a bit more sophisticated than the i210 AWD ($1,299, 0.25 acres) and the i206 AWD ($999, 0.15 acres), both of which have obstacle avoidance, but lack LiDAR.

An easy — but not trouble-free —setup

Like most new robot lawnmowers, the Navimow i215 has everything it needs built right into the mower, so there’s no need to install a tower or a boundary wire around your property. I simply set up the base station where the robot docks to recharge, and then followed the instructions in the Navimow app to connect it to my home Wi-Fi network.

As part of the setup process, you can send the mower out to automatically map your yard, or you can perform this task manually by driving the bot around the perimeter.

Even after creating the map, it still required some tweaking, as the i215 kept nose diving off one corner of my lawn; I would have hoped its Lidar would have recognized the dropoff. However, all I had to do was go into the app and re-draw the map to shave off a few inches. After those adjustments, I rarely encountered an issue with it going astray.

Obstacle avoidance and mowing performance

The Navimow did a good job at avoiding objects. It successfully navigated around a small soccer ball, as well as a plastic child’s toy, but ran right over an orange ball the size of a baseball; perhaps it felt it was small enough that it wouldn’t be a problem.

However, unlike the Sunseeker X3, which I tested last year, Segway’s mower and app doesn’t mark on its map that it encountered an obstruction. The only indication I got was that the app showed a spot of the lawn that was unmowed.

After scanning your yard, Segway’s mower will also plot the ideal direction to mow your lawn most efficiently. In my case, it was a diagonal line along the long axis. Taking this route also meant it was able to avoid driving directly up the steepest part of my lawn. I still worried about it creating divots in my lawn; more than once, I saw it spin its wheels in place on some of the steeper sections, which tore up the grass a bit.

Within the Segway Navimow app, you can adjust the direction of the mowing, but unlike most other robot lawnmowers we’ve tested, Segway’s app doesn’t let you mow patterns, such as a crosshatch or diamond. Some companies’ mowers will even let you mow shapes, like hearts. While I think that’s a little frivolous, I do wish Segway would offer a little something more in terms of letting you control how the mower cuts your grass.

Smart home and security features

Even the least expensive robot lawnmower will cost upwards of $500, so some sort of security feature is warranted, so that someone doesn’t simply walk away with your mower as it’s making its rounds.

Segway built two protections into the Navimow to keep would-be thieves from absconding with your stuff. Within the Segway app, you can set a geofence boundary around your property, so that if the bot is moved beyond a certain radius, it will sound an alarm. You can set it anywhere from a 33-foot to up to a 164-foot radius; obviously, if your yard is larger than that, you might want to disable this feature.

Should the alarm not be enough of a deterrent, the Navimow i215 is also equipped with Apple FindMy, so you can locate the mower if it goes missing.

Finally, the i215 also works with Alexa and Google Assistant, so you can use your smart speaker of choice to command the mower to start working, or connect it to your other smart home devices and routines.

Bottom line

I was initially skeptical that the Segway Navimow i215 would be able to negotiate my front yard, but the little machine defied my expectations. While it’s not quite as smart as I hoped — it drove itself right off one of my retaining walls — it ultimately performed well over the long run.

I also liked the i215’s security features, but there are still a couple of things I wish were included. For example, the Worx Landroid has an edge-mowing feature, and the Sunseeker S4 will show in the app any objects it encounters in your yard. And, both of those models — which cost less than the Navimow — also let you mow your yard in specific patterns.

So, while Segway has made a very capable robot lawnmower, there are still others that are a cut above.

Fish owners, rejoice! That (rather pungent) tank clean you have to steel yourself for every so often can double up as a clever gardening hack. As rumour has it, fish tank water is a brilliant source of nutrients to pour over leafy green plants in your garden.

So, next time you're cleaning and removing water from your aquarium, be mindful of the fact that this stuff is essentially liquid gold for gardeners.

There are some dos and don'ts, of course, but the water from most freshwater fish tanks can be a great, mild, and natural fertilizer not just for your garden, but also for indoor plants such as herbs. Interested? Now considering buying some fish? Me too, actually. Here's what else to know...

How exactly can fish tank water help plants?

Here's the very simple reason why: old fish tank water contains fish faeces, which is mainly ammonia. This waste converts from ammonia into nitrite, all thanks to either the filter or gravel in the tank. And as we all know, nitrogen is a form of plant fertilizer. So, not only will this water hydrate your plants, but they'll get a much-needed fertilizer boost at the same time.

It goes without saying, but we'd only suggest giving this water to plants that are in need of fertilizer. Avoid pouring this water on plants that you've recently tended to — because excess nitrogen can harm plants, causing very rapid growth that may threaten the quality of your produce.

If your fish tank is placed rather close to the exit to your backyard, you're winning — this makes it a less stressful job of worrying about spilling this smelly water on your floors.

Better yet? This gardening hack doesn't just mean more water for your plants, but it means you're throwing away less water each time you clean your tank. Instead of throwing it down the drain, pour it into your watering can and make good use of it in your backyard.

Which plants to focus on the most when working with fish tank water? If we're thinking of the ones that will get the most benefit, then focus on herbs like basil, mint, parsley, coriander and rosemary. When it comes to vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, spinach, and cucumbers will love fish tank water. Your fruit plants needn't miss out either: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and citrus plants will all love this extra nitrogen boost.

Produce isn't the only thing that you can use this gardening hack for. If you have a rose bush or plant, then you're winning. The same goes for hydrangeas, lavender, marigolds, and geraniums.

Maybe now you can rethink the kids asking you for a pet once a week!

Final thoughts

It should be noted, though, that this isn't the rule with all fish tanks. Only freshwater ones. Saltwater aquariums don't follow the same rule, so we wouldn't use this for watering your plants since the salt makes it harder for the roots to absorb water.

Be mindful if you've recently added any chemicals or medication to your tank. If you have, check whether what you've added claims to be "plant safe". If you're still unsure, then it's best to avoid using it on your plants until you're sure it won't hurt them. Definitely avoid using the water if you've used any copper-containing treatments in your tank recently.

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It's officially de-weeding season. It's a job that nobody likes to do, but it's a necessity for a tidy backyard. Because there's no point in investing in high-quality patio furniture, choosing the perfect outdoor cushions, and even ensuring that you've got the best grill around, just to let your garden look untidy from weeds.

Take it from me and tackle them now before it's too late. Don't let them grow wild, as it makes the job twice as hard. You should see my front patio — untameable is an understatement, and I just keep putting it off because truly, I don't have the right gear to get it done fast.

That was until I spotted Martha Stewart's gardening line at QVC. Filled with pretty necessities for any gardener, the weeding tool is truly what my garden toolset had been missing.

It's not too large to store in my busy shed; it's easy to handle and best of all: it's super versatile. So much so that Martha herself owns several; she proudly claims.

So, what exactly is the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

You can find everything from patio furniture to gardening gloves and more in the Martha Stewart Outdoor Living section at QVC.

This cultivator tool is similar to most other handheld ones; however, its versatility makes it stand out and is the real reason Martha loves it so much.

Martha explains that its design originates from Japan and its unique shape allows it to not only dig into the ground, but it can also be used to scrape weeds. It has a sturdy wooden handle which makes it easy to grip tight, too, for when you're working with tough roots or extra dry soil.

Martha continues to add that it's her absolute "favourite hand tool of all", claiming that it's super versatile. "I have one of these in every garden bag," says Stewart to QVC.

How to use the Martha Stewart weeding tool?

Much like any other cultivator tool, this is recommended for use to dig weeds out of soil. Its sharp point allows it to pierce into the ground, whether hard or soft at the time, and to scoop out deep-set weeds with ease.

Thanks to this sharp edge, you can even use this tool between tight paving slabs. It also works wonders in loosening weeds, not only digging them out.

This tool is easy to use one-handed, meaning it doesn't require a lot of elbow work, while it makes a quick job of de-weeding a space.

Once you're finished, go ahead and turn it over to its flat edge and use this to scrape these weeds into a pile. Handy for moving debris across your patio and out of your way, plus it won't damage your floor or surface.

Another way to use it? For seeding! Reviewer Dorothea claims it "works great for weeding and making rows for seeds".

JSYK: It might be worth considering which is your dominant hand, as this tool will be more convenient to use if you are right-handed due to its design and shape.

Don't just take it from us — reviewers love this handy tool, too. "Since receiving this tool I have used it non stop when working in my yard. Works great at up rooting my weeds--worth every cent!", claims shopper FLNonny. Another happy reviewer, glassiegirl, adds, "Where has this been all my life??".

There's more where this de-weeder came from, too, as shopper KS Girl raves, "Best garden tool I own. I won’t buy from anyone else that sells garden tools. Please bring us more Martha!". Yes, you can also buy a Martha Stewart 4-piece Trowel Set from QVC, plus a 6-set of Gardening Gloves, and 3 Garden Soil Scoops.

Would you buy this de-weeding tool for yourself or a friend? It'd make the perfect gift for a budding gardener.

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With a hot summer and low rainfall, even the hardiest lawns have struggled to stay green. Right now, my own fried patch resembles more of a sandy beach than a luscious cascade of green.

Although I’m considering digging up some of my lawn and replacing it with a dry gravel garden, all is not lost. If you take this one action in August, you could be enjoying a green lawn in time for fall.

Don't give up — your lawn will survive

When I walk on my lawn right now, I feel sand between my toes and hear a crackle as the brittle blades snap. I’ve never known a year when my lawn has suffered so much.

However, by following this one lawncare step, you’ll be surprised how quickly your lawn can be transformed from an unattractive patch to a lush expanse of green.

But right now, you may also be questioning whether your brown, yellowing lawn will bounce back when it seems there’s no chance of survival. Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, says don’t give up hope. “Most brown lawns are in fact dormant, and haven’t completely died back yet.

“When moisture is low, grass focuses its energy on protecting its root system, the beating heart of the lawn, so this is why color drains from the visible sward above the soil.”

And he explains that the lawn will begin to flourish once it receives adequate hydration. However, because the soil is parched, intervention helps to ensure water reaches the roots. If not, water will pool on your lawn and won’t be absorbed into the soil.

That’s where this lawn hack comes in; it helps your lawn absorb the essentials to bring it back to full health

Start by aerating your lawn

So the one task you can do this month to help your lawn absorb moisture is to aerate your lawn, and all you need is a garden fork. During the drier months, your soil has become compacted and needs to be broken up to improve airflow, water absorption and nutrient access.

Inserting a garden fork or lawn aerator into your soil creates many small holes that act as channels, allowing water, oxygen and nutrients to reach the soil and strengthening the root system.

Aerating your lawn with a garden fork

If aerating your lawn manually with a garden fork, Luke Taylor and Marc Kerr, in their book ‘Lawns: An uncomplicated guide’, $15 at Amazon, recommend following these three steps:

1. Insert your garden fork roughly 6 inches deep into the soil.

2. Push forwards as you remove the fork from the soil. They explain that this will help make the holes slightly larger, create additional cracks for aeration, and allow you to remove the fork easily.

3. Continue this process, spacing the holes around 5-6 inches, until you cover the whole surface of your lawn.

In addition to a garden fork, you can also use a lawn aerator, designed specifically for the job.

Test your lawn for compaction: Try the screwdriver test

If you want to ensure your lawn is compacted before you insert a garden fork across it, Laura Bradbury, head of e-commerce at Vonhaus, suggests trying a hack using a screwdriver.

She says, “Push a long screwdriver gently into a few different sections of the lawn. If it goes into some areas easily but meets much more resistance in others, particularly where furniture, paddling pools or heavy footfall have been over summer, the soil may have become compacted.”

And Bradbury adds that the screwdriver test gives homeowners a quick way to compare different parts of the lawn before committing to a larger job.

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I hate de-weeding. It's arguably the worst gardening job out there; in fact, I'd rather mow my lawn ten times over than de-weed my patio.

So, when I discovered this genius weed-killer hack and quickly realised I already had the one ingredient it required under my kitchen sink, I felt like I'd mastered the game.

Usually, I tackle my weeds with a mix of white vinegar and boiling water. Admittedly, this method works, but it takes a few tries. It's great because it's completely pet-safe, but weeds do return rather fast.

I'll still be using this for my yard where there are larger patches of weeds, and where my dog often visits, but at the moment my front porch patio is out of control, so instead of vinegar and boiling water, I'll be giving biological laundry powder a try.

Yes, this recently viral weed killer hack isn't just convenient, but it actually works!

So what exactly is the biological laundry detergent weed killer hack?

Not only can this magic powder prevent weed growth, but it also adds a pleasant scent to your paving slabs. "Biological washing powder is something a lot of us already have at home, yet very few people think to use it outside," claims Bill Jarvis, an expert and co-founder of patio paint supplier Premium Paints.

"It can be a handy option for weeds growing in the joints between paving slabs, especially if you catch them before they become established," he adds.

This is a genius gardening hack for those narrow gaps in your yard where you've noticed weeds normally thrive. This way, you can easily stay on top of your tidy patio, and you won't find yourself panic spreading weed killer before hosting a family barbecue.

How to use laundry powder on your weeds

The first part of this task is simple. Sprinkle a scoop of powder over the weeded area and water it lightly. Leave it a few days to settle, and then dig out your (probably dirty, let's be honest) gardening gloves.

Then, you're going to need to get your hands a little dirty and go ahead and yank out those smaller weeds. "If you deal with weeds while they are still small, they are much easier to manage. Waiting until the patio is completely overgrown usually means a much bigger job," says Jarvis.

Once removed, give this area a good sweep to push away any debris, leaves, or even lost seeds.

"A lot of it comes down to timing", adds Jarvis. Don't let weeds get too big or you'll struggle to remove them and keep them at bay. This means that you need to treat those problem areas frequently.

This bio laundry weed killer hack might not be the be-all and end-all for larger patches of weeds. But it will be a game-changer for filling the cracks in between your paving slabs, to help prevent those pesky weeds from growing back rapidly.

Just don't forget to brush fresh weeds away as they form, as leaving them can spread them fast, and sweeping these hot spots can prevent deep roots from forming.

Let us know in the comments if this hack worked on your weeds.

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I've got two bird feeders in my garden already, but I recently learned I need one more. Why? Well, there's a special one specifically designed to attract hummingbirds – and I'd love to have more of these adorable, vibrant birds coming to visit.

Not only are they lovely to look at, showing off their unique flying moves from hoovering in midair to flying backward, but they're also great pollinators, boosting your garden's ecosystem for the better.

But, while I've figured out the type of feeder I need, designed to hold liquid sugar water with flower shapes to suit their long beaks, I've also discovered that there's a sweet spot on where you should hang them – and fortunately, it's pretty simple.

So, if you're like me and are eager to attract hummingbirds to your outside space, here's everything you need to know about exactly where it should go for the best chance at attracting these feathered friends.

Where should I hang my feeder?

When hanging your hummingbird feeder, it turns out it's the height that's really important. For this, you want to aim for about 6 feet off the ground. This is a sweet spot for hummingbirds as it's high enough to stay away from predators (namely cats) so acts as a safe space for them to settle down and eat.

But, you want to make sure you're not placing it too high. This would put it away from natural food sources in your yard like flowers and shrubs, as well as opportunities for water.

They also won't be looking for a feeder up that high, especially if it's away from where they'd usually travel. As well as height though, there's a couple of other things to consider when hanging up your feeder.

Keeping it away from windows so they don't crash into the glass is also important, as well as putting it in a shaded area with a touch of sun so that the nectar stays fresh. If you leave it in direct sunlight, the nectar can spoil and make the hummingbirds sick.

Something even better you can do? The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service recommends growing specific plants to attract hummingbirds to your yard: "Hummingbirds prefer to nest near a ready supply of nectar and other food like insects, so you can encourage them to live in or near your home or business by maintaining some shrubbery and deciduous trees in which they can seek protective cover."

"As seasons change, it can also help to leave any leaf litter on the ground as it becomes important habitat for many of the insects and spiders they also eat."

What to put in your hummingbird feeder

Yes, hummingbirds like to eat leaves, spiders and flowers, but that's not what you should be putting in your feeder.

If you're wondering what you to put in them instead to lure in these little birds, there's plenty of advice online, but TikTok helped me out once again with some top tips. Creator @hiddenacrehome has shared a simple recipe with almost 80 thousand views and counting that seems like an easy solution.

All you need is a 4:1 ratio mix of water and sugar. So, with 4 cups of water, add 1 cup of sugar. Give it a good shake and use it to refill your hummingbird feeder whenever needed.

A sweet treat paired with a sweet spot should hopefully attract more hummingbirds to your yard, but you'll still need to have a little patience and be sure to keep the noise levels down. They scare easily.

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Rusty garden furniture isn’t a sign that it needs a one-way trip to the junkyard. In fact, it’s more often than not very easy to remove — if you know exactly what to use and how to apply it.

Better yet? You might just have some secret rust repellent hiding in your pantry. Rumor has it that dark molasses — or even robust molasses — can break down rust. Yes, this is the same ingredient that you’d put in your gingerbread come December.

This bittersweet syrup is a non-toxic way to revive metal garden furniture this summer. And if you already have a jar in your pantry, then it won’t cost a cent to try.

How do we know it works? Jon Saeed, co-founder and managing director at Lighting Legends, told us: “Things that contain acids are generally the best cleaning agents for this issue as acidity is what helps break down the rust, making it easier to scrub away.”

So, what exactly is the black treacle hack for rust?

We all know how easily rust forms on metal garden furniture, whether it’s from rain or moisture. And with that comes the difficulty of removing rust. “Rust on garden furniture can be a real nuisance and can instantly make chairs, tables and benches look old and unclean,” says Saeed.

Luckily, there are a few kitchen staples you can use to clean your rusty furniture. And apart from ketchup, dark molasses, more commonly known as black treacle, will also do the trick.

“Whether or not it’s easy to clean will depend on how long it’s been there for and how much of it there is,” says Saeed. “A light layer of rust can usually be removed with a wire brush or abrasive sponge, but anything that’s been left longer can be a lot more stubborn to remove.”

How to remove rust with black molasses

“Surprisingly, treacle works a treat, but it tends to work best for furniture that you are able to dismantle and soak,” explains Saeed.

When using black treacle or dark molasses to treat rust on cast iron or steel, it’s best to mix one part treacle with eight parts warm water. Give it a good stir and submerge the rusty parts of your furniture in this solution for a good few days — or even a week if you think necessary. After that, you should be able to scrub the rust away.

You might find that an abrasive sponge works well at this stage. Once the rust has gone, be sure to completely dry the piece of furniture before reassembling.

Who says this hack is just for furniture? You can also use it on pans, grill grates and more!

Citric acid will also work

"If you can’t dismantle your furniture, then creating a thick paste with citric acid is a better option,” adds Saeed.

He recommends adding 50-100g of citric acid to enough water to form a thick paste. This can then be applied to the rusty area and then covered with Saran Wrap. Leave it for four hours, then scrub it with a wire brush. Ensure that it’s totally dry, too.

Have you tried this rust hack on your metal furniture (or anything else)? Let us know in the comments below.

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You’ve overpacked your suitcase and miraculously managed to zip it. You’ve checked that your passport is in your document wallet over and over. And most importantly: you’re certain that you’ve got the right dates for your getaway.

But as you step out the front door, panic sets in — what about the backyard? After five months of feeding, weeding and watering your garden, you’ve neglected to plan how to nurture it while you’re away. Will it still be blooming when you return?

Here are four tips to ensure your garden will look just as lush as the day you left.

4 holiday garden mistakes to avoid this August

Beyond covering your patio furniture and packing up your beloved grill, there are a few extra jobs to tick off in your yard before heading on a vacation. Take it from me: I recently returned from a two-week vacation to discover a yard full of wilting flowers and overgrown weeds.

So, if you don’t have a trusted neighbor to step in, here’s how to hydrate your perennials the smart way this August, according to David Denyer, florist and garden expert at eflorist.

1. Don't leave your potted plants in direct sunlight

Even if you’re working with plants that thrive in the summer sun, consider moving them to a shady spot before you pack up the car. This way, they won’t dry or even possibly wilt while you’re out of state. “The extra heat and intense sunlight could dry them out fast,” says Denyer, so it’s best to be safe than sorry.

2. Don't forget to deadhead

Arguably one of the most important things you can do in your garden, especially if your vacation is longer than a few days, is to identify any flowering plants before you head off.

“Plants can grow at a rapid rate at times, and after some time away, we can return home to what seems like a jungle,” says Denyer.

If any blooms are faded or finished, go ahead and snip them off, always using a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears to avoid spreading disease.

This way, while you’re away, your plant can focus on the important things — like growing new seeds and buds.

3. Don't forget to give your garden a big drink

Giving your plants a generous watering the day before your trip will put them in a great position before you head off. So even if you can’t rely on a neighbor, you’ve got peace of mind that they’re hydrated.

Got any plants with saucers underneath their pots? Fill these with a little water for some bonus points! But be careful: “Soggy roots and overwatering can be a cause for concern, and potentially cause fungus gnats to appear,” explains Denyer.

4. Don't overlook self-watering globes

Self-watering globes are clever pieces of kit designed for a good reason — to drip-feed your plants water over a longer period of time. They come in different sizes depending on how long you’re away from home, but I always say the bigger the better, as the larger the globe, the more hydration your plant is guaranteed.

“Simply fill them up and pop them into the soil just before you leave, and they’ll do the watering for you while you’re on holiday,” says Denyer.

However, he says they are more helpful for indoor plants, as the size-to-soil ratio is more ideal. For outdoor use, he suggests making your own.

How to make your own self-watering globe

You can make your own self-watering device using a water bottle; Denyer recommends using a glass rather than a plastic bottle to avoid placing any microplastics in the soil.

“If you’re going to use this method to water your plants while you’re away, the best way to do it is with a clay spike or cone attached,” he explains.

“Simply screw or secure it onto the top of the bottle, flip it upside down, and stick it into the soil. By adding this, it means the clay will only let water out when the soil’s dry enough to actually need it, so your plant gets a drink only when it’s thirsty.”

You can also simply poke some small holes in the bottle cap instead, and the water will slowly drip out over time to allow for continuous hydration.

Gardening essentials we love

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As the sunny weather brings out vibrant blooms and luscious leaves in my garden, I find myself fighting the urge to bring every single one of them indoors so I can enjoy them all day long.

Fortunately, I know that would be excessive, but that doesn't stop me from bringing some of them inside. Cutting fresh flowers from my garden and moving them into vases around my home is one of my favorite things to do in the summer. After all, why would I spend money on bouquets when I've got my own flower shop waiting in my garden?

But, I've learnt some hard lessons along the way, mainly when it comes to inviting bugs into my home riding the petals and stems of the flowers I want to enjoy. To avoid common mistakes, here's 5 top tips for bringing fresh flowers indoors.

1. Choose the right time of day

While you can cut fresh flowers from your garden at any time of day, there's definitely moments that are better than others. First thing in the morning or in the late evening are two of the best opportunities you have and there's a couple of reasons for that.

Firstly, you're doing it before it gets too hot or when the sun is cooling down. This way you're giving them a better chance of not wilting too quickly from the loss of water.

Secondly, insects aren't as active as these times of days so it's less likely that you'll be bringing them indoors.

2. Do as much of it outside as possible

When it comes to cutting fresh flowers, of course you'll be doing it outside at first, but you'll want to spend a bit more time out there then you might initially think.

This tip is a catch-all for the other tips I'm about to cover, too, meaning you should do pretty much all of the work outside. This will ensure you give any insects and pollen time to drop off in the best place – rather than inside your home.

3. Strip the lower leaves away

As you'd do with any shop-bought flowers, it's best to strip away the lower leaves from each stem. When you buy them, doing this avoids the leaves stagnating and rotting in the water.

When you're cutting them from your garden, this is also the case but with the added benefit of getting rid of any insect stragglers clinging on or any messy soil that could dirty up your home.

4. Give them a good shake

It's also a good idea to give your flowers a little shake, emphasis on the little. You don't want to destroy the flowers or risk shaking off the lovely petals, but you also want to give any insects the chance to jump ship.

It's best to do this with the flowers facing downwards as insects can easily hide inside the petals and leaves that are curled upwards.

5. Soak them in cold water

It's especially handy to have a bucket of cold water by your side when you're cutting your fresh flowers to soak them in. This will help give them a quick wash to remove any excess soil, insects, or anything else you don't want inside your home.

If you've had enough time outside, you can also put the bucket in your bathtub or even run some water into the bath to clean them for around 30 minutes before putting them in a vase. Then, you can enjoy your outdoor flowers without worrying about extra visitors in your home.

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When tomato leaves begin yellowing or dropping blossoms, it makes sense to immediately suspect a disease or a watering issue. But often, the problem isn't a lack of nutrients in the dirt, it is an invisible chemical barrier preventing the plant from absorbing them.

Tomatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, and if your pH drifts too far out of range, root systems lock up. You don't need to wait days for a digital meter or laboratory mail-in kit to figure out if your soil is off.

With two basic kitchen staples, you can run a quick, reliable test in under five minutes to diagnose what is happening beneath the surface.

How kitchen staples expose your soil's chemistry

Before altering your garden bed, you can use simple acid-base reactions to get a clear directional read on your soil's chemistry. Collect two clean containers and gather fresh soil samples from about three inches below the surface near your plant's root zone, removing any stones or mulch.

In the first container, pour half a cup of household white vinegar directly over the soil sample. If it fizzes or bubbles immediately, your soil is alkaline (pH above 7.0), reacting to the acid in the vinegar.

If nothing happens, take your second container, moisten the soil sample with distilled water until it becomes muddy, and sprinkle a tablespoon of baking soda on top. Vigorous bubbling here signals acidic soil (pH below 6.0).

If neither sample reacts, your soil sits comfortably in the neutral range.

Why extreme soil pH starves tomato roots

Tomatoes require a specific pH sweet spot (ideally between 6.0 and 6.8) to efficiently uptake nutrients from the soil. When your baking soda or vinegar test produces an aggressive reaction, it indicates a significant pH imbalance.

Even if your soil is rich in compost or fertilizer, high alkalinity or extreme acidity chemically binds essential elements like nitrogen, phosphorus, and iron. In alkaline soil, for instance, calcium and iron become insoluble, causing young leaves to yellow while leaf veins stay dark.

What looks like a dying, diseased tomato plant is often just a severe nutritional bottleneck caused entirely by the surrounding soil pH.

How to adjust your soil before applying fertilizer

Once your DIY test identifies which way your pH is leaning, you can take the best course of action rather than blindly adding fertilisers that might worsen the problem.

If the vinegar test fizzed, your soil is too alkaline. To pull the pH down toward the ideal range, you will need to work elemental sulphur or acidifying organic matter like pure peat moss into the topsoil. Ordinary leaf compost or straw won't be strong enough to break the alkalinity.

If the baking soda test reacted, your soil is overly acidic. You can safely correct this by mixing in garden lime, which raises the pH gradually without shocking the root zone, though small, careful top-dressings of wood ash can also work in a pinch.

While this kitchen hack provides a yes-or-no signal rather than an exact numerical reading, it gives you an immediate, actionable diagnosis so you can stabilise your root zone before long-term damage sets in.

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There’s nothing quite like picking fresh, homegrown vegetables straight from the vine and bringing them directly to your dining table. Plus, it’s the ultimate way to elevate those crisp, summer salads!

But whether you’re learning how to grow tomatoes from seeds or cultivating tomatoes in pots, you’ll inevitably face one frustrating hurdle — garden pests.

In fact, keeping your plants safe from hungry intruders such as squirrels, birds, or even deer is often the biggest obstacle to achieving that perfect, juicy harvest this season.

And while there are plenty of natural pest repellents or companion plants to help deter pests, there is one unlikely item found in your bathroom that can do just the trick.

So why are gardeners putting a bar of ‘special’ soap by their tomato plants?

Hang a bar of soap near tomato plants

It seems like a simple bar of soap can do so much more than just clean your skin or leave you smelling fresh.

Interestingly, its strong fragrance acts as a powerful deterrent for garden pests. However, it’s not just any standard store-bought brand that will work; you’ll need to use Irish Spring Moisture Blast Deodorant Bar Soap.

According to a research study conducted by the University of Nebraska in 1991, using “bars of fragrant soap will keep deer from crops at critical times.”

This makes it an ideal solution to hang by your tomato crops, acting as a barrier to ensure they’re not devoured or ruined by all types of yard intruders.

Perhaps the only caveat is that once the fragrance starts to wear off, they’ll soon be back. So, it’s best to only use this easy hack alongside other methods to ensure your garden remains a pest-free zone.

How to use soap by tomato plants (and what not to do)

There are a couple of ways you can use soap near your tomato plants. The first is to drill a small hole through the soap, thread some string, and hang it from stakes or a plant trellis. For best results, leave the packaging on before hanging, and experts suggest that a single bar is a sufficient scent barrier for any tomato plants within a 3-foot area.

Another option is to place the bar inside a small, fine-mesh pouch before hanging it near your crops instead. Once the soap fragrance wears off, you can simply replace it with a fresh bar.

Bear in mind that if soap is used incorrectly, it may harm your plants. Since this may contain sodium hydroxide, or contemporary lye, it can scorch foliage and harm plant tissues. So be sure that no soap residue drips onto your tomato plants or soil.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

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• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

During summer, our outdoor areas get a lot more use. And while it's wonderful to be enjoying the patio area with friends and family, I know my patio has started to get a little messy. While I cleaned it up in spring, it's desperately asking me to give it another good scrub. But, it turns out, I may have made a common mistake before that I definitely want to avoid.

While I followed 7 simple steps to cleaning my patio without a pressure washer, I then grabbed a household item that, according to an expert, I should be avoiding.

And it turns out there's another item on the 'no-no' list that I should steer clear of too. Here are the patio cleaning mistakes you can avoid this summer when it's time to clean up dirt, spills, and general wear, thanks to expert advice.

Avoid these two household items

Morgan Smith, director at porcelain garden tiles company Pegseo Stone, has advised there are two common products that people use when cleaning the patio that shouldn't be – white vinegar and bleach. While I use white vinegar for 'zero-effort' hacks like cleaning my microwave, it turns out the patio is one place I shouldn't take it.

Smith says: "White vinegar is highly acidic, so using it on certain patio materials can damage the surface itself rather than simply removing dirt." These certain materials include limestone and other calcareous pavers.

But, you should also be careful that you're not causing harm to any grass or flowerbeds nearby, Smith adds: "Any vinegar that runs into nearby borders can also damage grass and plants, meaning it can harm both the patio and the surrounding garden."

The same applies for bleach. As Smith explains, while it may give you a visual improvement, over time it can cause "lasting surface damage and further maintenance costs."

So, next time you head out to clean your patio, think before grabbing the white vinegar or bleach.

What to use instead

Fortunately, there's an even simpler household item that you can use that shouldn't cause any damage to your patio – and that's an easy soap and water solution.

"Using warm water and soap is an effective option for general patio cleaning, particularly when used with a hard-bristled brush," Smith advises. "Start cleaning from the corners of the paving and move gradually inwards, allowing each section to be scrubbed and rinsed before moving on."

You'll want to opt for a soap that's eco-friendly though, meaning it avoids harmful chemicals to any flora, fauna and wildlife nearby.

Plus, if you're lucky enough to have a pressure washer handy, Smith says it's important to watch how forcefully you wash, advising: "too much force can damage the surface of the pavers."

Instead, Smith suggests sticking to a low-pressure setting and angling the pressure washer nozzle at 30-degrees, rather than pointing it directly at the pavers.

And one final tip is is to check the joints between each slab once you've done your cleaning: "Areas that have lost sand or pointing should be repaired to keep the paving secure and limit further deterioration."

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• I'm cleaning my patio furniture with this non-toxic ingredient — and it also works wonders on your grill
• Forget power washing: 5 budget-friendly hacks to get your backyard sparkling this spring
• 5 tips to keep your deck looking great all summer

Summer is here and the ideal time to get outdoors and prioritize our yard and lawn maintenance. To make light work of our tasks, it’s easy to get lured into buying expensive gardening gadgets and professional-grade supplies in hopes of making yard work a breeze (I’ve been guilty of that).

However, seasoned pros warn that many of these items are actually a waste of money and offer little real benefit.

So if you’re looking to slash your gardening budget, I asked the experts to reveal the most common yard expenses to avoid — and what you can do to save your cash.

1. Buying fertilizer (without doing a soil test first)

While fertilizer is an essential buy for nurturing plants or achieving a vibrant lawn, homeowners frequently dump cash into bags of fertilizer without first checking their soil's condition. This means that you could be wasting money on fertilizer that won’t benefit your garden.

“One of the biggest things I see that homeowners waste money on is fertilizing a lawn without doing a soil test first,” states Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal.

“Many people apply products that their lawn doesn't actually need, and that wastes money and harms the turf. A simple soil test doesn't cost very much and will tell you exactly which nutrients your lawn is missing and let you know which one to buy.”

You can purchase a soil meter to check the soil pH balance and condition before buying, or you can simply use homemade fertilizer such as mulch.

“One of my favorite money-saving hacks is to mulch your lawn clippings instead of bagging them. The lawn clippings return nutrients to the soil, reduce fertilizer needs, and will help keep the lawn healthier throughout the season.”

For more top tips, here’s how to reuse your lawn clippings around your yard.

2. Cheap plastic gardening tools

Another common money-waster is investing in plastic gardening tools that we think will help us get the job done quickly. From seed-starting trays to cheap soil meters, these can often be a waste of money.

While it may seem like a good idea at the time — or when it was on sale — these tend not to last long or easily get damaged.

“Plastic tools degrade faster than metal ones. As a result, they need to be replaced more often, costing you more money in the long run,” agrees Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert at Online Turf.

“Cheap plastic seed starting trays can be very flimsy, breaking after as little as one or two seasons, but they are also bad for the environment," Zaber says. "Instead, you can use DIY methods, such as toilet rolls or eggshells, to create your own pots, buy better quality, reusable trays, or invest in biodegradable alternatives.”

It’s always worth spending money on tools that you’ll actually use often, and buy high-quality, durable tools that will go the distance.

I’ve often made the mistake of buying cheap gardening tools that would either do a poor job, break easily, or just end up collecting dust at the back of my kit.

What’s more, before you press ‘buy’ on that cheap online deal, always check out the specs or reviews. It may well be too good to be true.

“Homeowners should only buy the tools they will absolutely use, not ones that they think they might need,” adds Charlie Gilbert, Managing Director of Ransom Spares.

“Research the tools that you need to maintain your current garden, and avoid big toolset purchases. Take notice of how often you use the tools you start out with and what they cost you.

Some homeowners might realize that yard upkeep is too taxing or time-consuming and reach out to professional services, who will have their own tools.”

3. Low-quality garden furniture

I’m a sucker for Pinterest, and love looking for inspiration to spruce up my garden with different furniture and decor styles.

And while it’s possible to upgrade your backyard on a budget, avoid buying low-quality garden furniture, because it’s on trend right now.

“Outdoor furniture is expensive, and quality matters most when purchasing it,” states Gilbert. “Low-quality furniture will fade, rust, or crack more quickly than most people think. Those who live in very sunny, humid, or rainy climates will have to replace their furniture more often if they do not buy a weather-durable set.”

Another great money-saving tip is to consider buying used garden items, tools or furniture — but obviously check they are in good condition first.

“Garden furniture sets are not often something people concern themselves with the most when moving to a new house,” agrees Gilbert.

“Furniture can be cumbersome and difficult to move if you have a small vehicle, so check your local online listings and yard sales. Tools can also be purchased secondhand; just check their condition before buying.

“Word of mouth goes a long way as well if you live in a smaller neighborhood. You never know who is trying to get rid of what, so talk to your neighbors and let them know what you are looking for.”

So the next time you visit a thrift store or local market, it might be worth looking out for pre-loved garden furniture that you could rehome — and save a buck.

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• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Homeowners warned as rats may be chewing through yard wires this summer — expert tips to keep them out
• 7 surprising household items to help your plants grow 

Is the Coleman Snap ‘N Go one of the best coolers you can buy? If you don’t have storage space for a massive plastic box during the 50 weeks of the year you’re not using it, then, yes. 100%.

Not only does the Snap ‘N Go fold to just 3 inches thick between uses, but it’s also surprisingly easy to clean thanks to the removable inner lining. True, the lack of a drain plug means you’ll need some muscles to empty it, but at least you won’t have to go to the gym afterwards. My only major qualm with this cooler is that it’s still 20 pounds, which makes it less portable than a traditional cooler with wheels, but, again, as long as you’ve got a muscly friend, this won’t be an issue.

So, would I recommend the Coleman Snap ‘N Go for all camping fanatics? Spoiler alert: yes, but to find out the full story, keep reading this Coleman Snap ‘N Go review.

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Specs

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Price & availability

The Coleman Snap ‘N Go starts from $199 at Amazon U.S. and £142 at Amazon U.K. This is for the smallest 35-quart version. The biggest 55-quart model is $240 / £189.

This is much cheaper than Yeti’s line, which can set you back as much as a grand (Yeti Tundra 210-quart, $995), but starts from $200 (Yeti Roadie 15, but I tested the 32 with wheels).

I’ve also tested the Engel Cooler ($89 for 19 quarts) and the Coleman Classic Cooler ($84 for 70 quarts). Both of these are much cheaper than the Snap ‘N Go, but take up a lot of space between uses.

I’d recommend the Snap ‘N Go if you’re short on space and want a functional, relatively affordable cooler, but don’t mind sacrificing style and portability. I’ll get into this more below, but what the Snap ‘N Go has in collapsibility it lacks in transportability.

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Design & portability

The Coleman Snap ‘N Go is a unique cooler — the clue’s literally in the name. As you might’ve guessed, it’s a collapsible cooler. You can fold it into a 25 x 14 x 3-inch rectangle between uses. If you don’t have a spacious attic or basement, you’d be better off with the Snap ‘N Go or the Engel 19-quart (16.8 x 11 x 12.8 inches) than, say, the Coleman Classic Cooler (31.1 x 16.1 x 17.3 inches).

In terms of looks, the Snap ‘N Go is unassuming and basic. It looks like a cooler, but is there anything wrong with that? If you want something Instagrammable, you’d be better off with a Yeti. People will know how much money you have then, too. Those Yetis don’t come cheap.

Folding and unfolding the cooler was painless and easy. All you have to do is unclip the side pieces and squash it — the cooler does the rest.

However, carrying the cooler might be another issue in and of itself. The cooler is quite heavy, even when empty, at 20 pounds. I struggled to carry it by myself, as it’s still 25 inches long when collapsed. I’d recommend transporting it while empty if possible, or roping in your strongest friend to help lug it around. I wouldn’t be able to carry it alone.

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Performance

I tested the Coleman Snap ‘N Go as I’d test any other cooler: fill it with cans and ice and start the timer!

Here’s a photo of the Coleman at the beginning of my testing period.

I used around 5 pounds of ice, 24 cans of varying sizes, and a bottle of prosecco. I wanted to reflect real-world usage: in reality, you’re not going to arrange the cans in perfect lines, and you’re going to have different-sized products.

The ice melted in 30 hours, but the cans remained cold for 48 hours. This is a little short of Coleman’s “over two days cold” claim, but not miles behind. When I tested the Coleman Classic Cooler, it fell short of the suggested “5 days chilled” by a full day.

Here’s a photo after the said 30 hours.

As you can see, all the ice has melted, but the water was still cold enough to keep the cans cool. At this point, I wouldn’t necessarily trust this with perishables, though. If I were taking meat, fish, or dairy camping, I’d probably entrust this task to my Yeti Roadie — it managed to keep ice solid for over 72 hours — or Ninja FrostVault, which has a separate section to avoid cross-contamination. The Engel 19-quart cooler kept ice solid for 24 hours and drinks cool for 48.

But none of these can beat the Ninja FrostVault, which kept drinks cool for 8 days. Yes, 8 days. I’d always recommend the Ninja if you want serious performance.

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Maintenance

After removing all the cans, I was disappointed to see there’s no drain plug. I had to manually pour out the water, which is fine if you’re strong enough to lift a 20-pound cooler, but I’m not. Again, this is where you’d summon your muscled friend (or, if you’re your own muscled friend, this is where you’d summon your inner strength). The Yeti Roadie has a drain plug, as does the Ninja FrostVault ($299).

After emptying the water, I cleaned the Snap ‘N Go by removing the inner liner, washing it, and hanging it up to dry. Once it had dried, I put it back in and folded the cooler down. That’s it. I didn’t need to make space in my attic — I just slotted the cooler between other objects. Again, if you’re short on space, this is a no-brainer. Get the collapsible cooler, not the huge plastic box!

Coleman offers a 3-year warranty as standard, which is nice, but still not as long as Ninja's and Yeti's 5-year warranty. However, it’s better than Engel’s 2 years, so take from that what you will.

Coleman Snap 'N Go review: Verdict

If you’re short on space at home but don’t want to drink nasty warm beer on camping trips, the Coleman Snap ‘N Go is a great cooler. It snaps down to 3 inches thick and can be stored in even the tightest spaces.

While it has a few flaws — no drain plug, still 20 pounds, and isn’t hugely portable for fellow weaklings — the collapsible form and cool time outweigh this.

I would have no reservations about using the Coleman Snap ‘N Go as my drinks cooler on camping trips. It keeps ice solid for 30 hours and drinks cool for 48 hours — definitely good enough for a weekend trip.

A week of brutal heat and your lawn turns brown. It looks fried. Looks dead. Your instinct is to do something: pull out the hose at sunset, grab fertilizer, lower the mower blade. These feel like solutions. They're not.

Most of that browning is dormancy, not death. Your grass is shutting down to survive the heat, which is exactly what it should do. The problem is that three specific mistakes can actually kill what dormancy doesn't. These mistakes are so common that most people don't realize they're doing them.

Here's what's going wrong and how to fix it before you accidentally kill what's still salvageable.

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It’s often unnerving when you spot a rat scurrying across your property — especially during these summer months, when you want to enjoy the outdoors. Not only are these pests on the hunt for food and shelter, but they may also be causing significant damage to your garden appliances and power cables.

According to an expert, rat activity peaks during warmer months, as rats gnaw to keep their teeth worn down. Since their teeth never stop growing, rats need to constantly chew on hard materials to prevent them from overgrowing — making our outdoor power cables an easy target.

“Rats seem to like chewing on electrical wires, which can be a real nuisance,” states Adam Wilkins, Managing Director of LightingLegends.

“If they gnaw hard enough, they can actually cause some real damage to garden appliances, and you’ll have to replace the wiring or, in some cases, the whole appliance.”

The good news is that you can keep these pests from invading your outdoor space by implementing these expert-approved top tips.

Here are three simple things you can do in your yard to keep rats out and save your yard's electrical appliances from damage.

1. Cover or repair entry points

The first thing is to inspect your yard for holes and gaps in fences, uncovered drain covers, or any other potential entry points that rats can use to enter your property.

"Repair holes in sheds and fences to prevent rats from accessing the garden,” advises Wilkins.

“Since rats often travel through drains, consider repairing any broken drain covers. You can also cover rat burrows with wire mesh to prevent it from reopening.”

Another top tip is to get rid of any yard clutter — including piles of lumber, garden waste, or even old tires. Such things may serve as a nesting site for rodents to hide and seek shelter. So always keep it tidy and well maintained.

Ultimately, the key is to ensure your outdoor environment is highly uninviting, making it difficult for rodents to easily enter your outdoor space.

Also, is your neighbor's cluttered yard attracting rodents to your home? I asked the experts what to do.

2. Remove any food sources

Secondly, remove any potential food sources that will entice rats to keep coming back (and feasting in your yard). Things like fallen fruit, standing water, or even dropped bird food can all attract rodents.

“Rats are usually on the lookout for suitable shelter with food so remove any fallen fruit, nuts or vegetables that they may find enticing,” adds Wilson.

Be sure to pick up any fruit that has dropped from your trees, tidy up scattered bird seed from the patio, and regularly drain any stagnant water or pet dishes to avoid attracting unwanted visitors.

3. Secure your compost bins

Composting is a great way to repurpose kitchen waste and put it back into your yard. However, our compost bins are also a magnet for rats since it provides everything that they need — food and shelter.

"If you have a compost bin be sure to turn the compost regularly and consider installing mesh underneath if it sits on soil,” advises Wilsons. “These bins are hotspots for rats because it provides them with food, warmth and shelter.”

One good solution is to invest in a tumbler compost bin, which is designed to make it easier to turn over. Typically, these feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to reach all parts.

Things to look out for

Of course, keep an eye out for your electrical equipment. And if you do spot a cable that has been chewed or damaged, be sure to turn off the power and always call in an electrician to repair it.

"Where possible, keep cables off the ground, check them regularly for signs of gnawing, move any electrical appliances indoors overnight and replace any damaged wiring rather than attempting to cover it up," adds Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket

"If you suspect a cable has been chewed, switch off the power and contact a qualified electrician to inspect it, rather than trying to fix it yourself."

You'll want to quickly eliminate the risk of structural damage or worse, electrical fires caused by chewed wires.

What's more, you'll want to enjoy your backyard in peace this summer.

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• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Your peace lily won't survive winter if you don't change these 5 things
• Stop killing your grass: 5 safe de-icing methods you need to know

Whether you’re growing your own tomatoes from seeds or in pots, nothing beats the taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes.

This is especially true when you can just pick straight from the vine and throw them into your tasty pasta dishes or summer salads.

But when you’re boiling your pasta, don’t be so quick to throw out your leftover water just yet.

I’ve just stumbled upon a surprising benefit from this common kitchen ‘leftover’ that might just help your tomato plants thrive. It’s a great way to provide a natural boost to your crop without the need for expensive fertilizers or the latest viral tomato-growing tips.

However, you’ll need to know the pros and cons first before putting it to good use in your yard. Here’s how pasta water can benefit your tomatoes (and the one drawback).

Why pasta water is good for tomato plants

Essentially, when you boil pasta, the process releases excess starch into the water. This creates a nutrient-rich liquid that can act as an effective fertilizer for your tomato plants and encourage soil microbes.

Plus, certain pasta varieties release essential minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron — which are all great for giving our plants a healthy boost and optimum growth.

However, this will only be effective with unsalted pasta water — or else the salt can dry out the plant or even kill it. What’s more, the salty water can lead to excess sodium in the soil, which will also affect growth.

How to water your tomato plants with pasta water

Simply drain your pasta water into a bowl, and leave it to cool. Once cooled, you can water the soil directly from the bowl or use a watering can or spray bottle to make the process a little easier.

Now you have your starch-rich, plant tonic — which is literally free.

One thing to remember

It is worth noting that there is one drawback. This starchy liquid may potentially attract unwanted pests or harmful bacteria to your garden.

To avoid the risk of mold in your soil or drawing insects, it’s recommended to use pasta water on plants sparingly.

Of course, it’s always best to use the right fertilizer for your tomato varieties, but there’s no harm in using homemade alternatives.

Plus, this is a cost-effective way to reuse your pasta water (until you get fed up of eating pasta dinners).

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

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• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
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A sudden heatwave can turn even the healthiest lavender bush completely odorless overnight. When temperatures soar, the plant isn't dying. It is actively venting off its volatile oils to protect its foliage from intense thermal stress.

The natural instinct is to rush out and dump water on the soil at midday, but that only worsens root stress and delays scent production. Rebuilding those lost aromatic compounds requires working with the plant's natural biology rather than fighting it.

With a simple shift in your watering schedule and a deep hydration routine, you can help the plant cool down and start producing fresh scent again in just a few days.

Why high heat drains your plant's oil reserves

Before jumping into a fix, it helps to understand what is happening inside the plant. Lavender stores its fragrance within microscopic, pressurized sacs called glandular trichomes on the surface of its foliage. When temperatures surge, those volatile compounds, linalool specifically, begin to evaporate rapidly under direct sun exposure.

Rather than running an intentional cooling mechanism, the plant simply loses its aromatic oils to high heat faster than it can replace them, leaving it odorless by late afternoon.

Watering during peak afternoon heat creates a stagnant, warm environment around the root zone. This excess moisture suffocates the roots and increases the risk of rot, leaving the plant too stressed to recover and regenerate its oils overnight.

Shift to a deep pre-dawn soak

If your lavender is baking in the sun and has lost its scent, your first instinct is to grab the hose and spray it down. Don't. Midday overhead watering creates a hot, humid environment that suffocates the roots.

Instead, the trick lies in a precise 48-hour hydration window.

First, wait until the sun goes down and the soil cools. Deliver a slow, targeted drink directly to the base of the plant using an open hose on a gentle trickle. This lowers the soil temperature gradually and allows the dry roots to drink without being shocked by midday heat.

The next morning at daybreak, give the base one more deep, deliberate soak. By saturating the lower soil layers before the sun hits the foliage, you create a moisture reserve the roots can safely draw from all day.

By avoiding the midday trap, your lavender's root system stays healthy and stress-free. With its hydration fully restored, the plant stops fighting for survival and restarts oil synthesis, bringing that rich, classic fragrance back to the leaves within 48 hours.

Wait for the fragrance to return

Once your deep-watering routine is in place, give the plant 48 hours to rebuild its resin glands. Avoid the temptation to prune off dead-looking stems during a hot stretch, as fresh cuts force the plant to divert critical energy toward healing.

By day two of consistent early-morning hydration, monitor the foliage during the cooler evening hours. Gently brush your fingers against the stems — not crushing them, but creating light friction. You will find that as root stress subsides, those microscopic oil sacs refill, delivering that signature, intense lavender fragrance right back to your backyard.

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• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody
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Summer is the best time to get out into your garden and enjoy your outside space. It's also one of the hardest times to keep your lawn in top condition, battling with hot weather, dry soil, and all of that extra use.

While I've been using 3 drought-proofing steps to protect my lawn during heatwaves, I can't help but notice I'm still struggling with specific issues. And I know I'm not the only one.

So, it only felt right to put it to our readers and ask: "What is the biggest problem you have with your lawn?" Over 3,000 of you answered, and here's what came out on top. Even better, I've got tips on how to fix it.

The number one lawn problem, according to readers

There was one resounding answer that came from our poll, far outweighing other issues, and that's bare patches. With a massive 3,079 votes totalling 64% of our readers' answers, it's a patchy lawn that seems to be causing the most bother.

To give you an idea of just how dominant this issue is, the second issue was crabgrass that received 625 votes (13%) followed by dog wee stains at 451 votes (9%) and dandelions at 388 votes (8%).

And I completely agree, struggling with bare patches myself and trying desperately to make sure my grass looks even across my lawn.

Fortunately, there's plenty of solutions to try that we've covered across a range of how-to guides. I'll delve into some of the top tips below and hopefully next time we run a poll, bare patches won't be such a problem.

How to tackle bare patches

From 5-minute quick fixes to step-by-step guides, depending on how much time you've got on your hands, these are the top tips I recommend to try out on that patchy lawn.

1. Try overseeding

It might seem like all hope is lost when your grass suddenly turns into a bare, soil patch on your lawn, but you can reapply seed to help with regrowth. It's called overseeding and it's a method used to block out weeds, cover up bare turf, and ultimately create a lawn that is covered with even grass.

But, you may find that even when you've overseeded it, you're still experiencing patchiness. There's a few reasons for that, but nothing our next step can't try and solve.

2. Reseed if the first go didn't take

Sometimes one overseeding session isn't quite enough and that's a problem answered by Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf when we spoke with her about yellow patches on lawns: "You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth."

The answer for this? Reseed and focus on even distribution across your lawn, in case the way you're applying it by hand is too thinly spread.

3. Add a layer of topsoil

Additionally, to protect the seed, you can add a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. As Handley recommends: "This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate."

Consider it an extra layer of protection, prompting grass growth and hopefully leading to a less patchy lawn.

4. Try a good fertilizer

Finally, you might want to think about adding some fertilizer to your lawn. Sure, it's hard to know how often you should fertilize your lawn and when to do it, but as advice widely varies it's always a good idea to check the type of fertilizer you're using and what job you want it to do.

If you can nail down some good practice with fertilizer, as well as choosing one that's suitable for the job, you can tackle those patchy areas in no time at all. Or, so I'm trying to do myself.

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• Stop spending a fortune on expensive lawn treatments: These 7 genius budget-friendly hacks will give you a stunning green yard using simple tricks
• 9 tips to revive dead grass and make your lawn green again
• How often should you mow the lawn? We asked the experts

Summer is here, and there’s nothing I enjoy more than hosting friends in the garden, whether you're firing up the grill or simply enjoying the sunshine.

Yet, it’s incredibly frustrating when pesky flies start buzzing around your outdoor dining table or swarming indoors in their search for something to eat.

While I’ve tried everything to get rid of flies — from fans and citronella candles to homemade vinegar traps, these only provide a temporary solution before they come back with a vengeance.

But an expert has shared a clever hack that can help to banish flies. Surprisingly, this involves a few household ingredients and costs almost nothing, as the solution is sitting right in your freezer tray — ice cubes (yes, really).

So before you reach out for those toxic fly sprays, try this ice cube hack that may prevent flies from ruining your backyard enjoyment.

So what exactly is the ice cube repellent hack?

Essentially, this method involves freezing aromatic, citrusy elements that naturally repel these insects directly into your ice cubes. The idea is that adding them to your drinks outside will release a fresh scent that repels flies and should keep them away from your outdoor dining area.

“Most people have a lemon, some mint or even a few cloves tucked away in the kitchen, so you can just throw them into an ice cube tray and give it a go,” states expert Glen Peskett from Saxton Blades Multi Tools. “The fresh smell can help make your garden table less appealing to flies when you're sitting outside."

"It's not going to completely stop flies from appearing, especially if there's food left uncovered nearby, but it can be a useful extra step when you're having drinks or eating outside."

How to make fly-repelling ice cubes

To test this yourself, begin by slicing some citrus fruit like lemon or lime, or gather some fresh mint.

Next, place these zesty pieces into your ice tray, fill with water, and let them freeze solid overnight. Alternatively, you can make this up in a glass before pouring into your tray.

Once ready, you can drop these cubes directly into your beverages or simply scatter them across your garden table to keep the area smelling fresh and fly-free.

“The trick works best when used around areas where flies are most likely to appear, such as outdoor dining tables, patios and seating areas”, adds Peskett.

Of course, aromatic ice cubes alone won’t be enough to keep them away all day, and Peskett recommends combining the ice cube hack with other simple habits that make gardens less attractive to flies.

Maintaining habits such as keeping food and sugary drinks covered when eating outside, wiping down tables after meals, and clearing away leftovers as soon as possible can help to prevent flies from being attracted to your yard.

"Flies are usually drawn in by food smells, so the biggest thing is removing what attracts them in the first place," Peskett explains. "Little tricks like scented ice cubes can be a handy addition, but keeping your outdoor space clean is what will make the biggest difference."

“It might not be a miracle cure, but for something that takes seconds to make and can double up as a refreshing addition to a summer drink, it's an easy hack worth trying before your next garden gathering.”

Alternatively, you could try placing potted lavender plants near outdoor dining areas, as the strong fragrance is repulsive to flies or sticky traps.

The ice cube hack might not be a miracle cure, but it will take seconds to make and is cost-effective.

So why not try these aromatic ice cubes before your next garden gathering — so those annoying flies don’t ruin your fun.

Let us know in the comments below if this hack really works (or not) for you.

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• How to mosquito-proof yourself this summer
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I must confess, I’ve been a bit late to the game when it comes to embracing robot lawnmowers for hands-free lawn maintenance. And given that I write about home and gardening trends for a living, this might come as a surprise.

But despite my loyalty to the power and reliability of my corded model, the constant hassle of untangling extension cords and getting to outdoor power points was starting to wear thin. Which is exactly what convinced me to finally let a robot lawn mower loose in my own yard.

Similar to robot vacuum cleaners, I thoroughly enjoyed the perks and convenience of just putting my feet up and letting a robot do all the work for me. Plus, it saved me the manual labor and the time-consuming nature of the chore.

However, there is a crucial detail I overlooked that I wished I had considered before using a robot mower. What’s more, this is a common issue that many people don’t factor in – and one of the top signs your yard may not be suitable for a robot lawn mower.

Here’s what happened when I first tried a robot lawnmower.

Check your robot mower is suitable for your lawn

One common assumption I had was that all robot lawnmowers would be ideal for every outdoor space. However, as it turns out, this is the one crucial detail I overlooked for my own uneven terrain.

Unlike standard flat yards, my lawn has a few bumps and features a noticeable dip toward the lower end.

I have to admit, I was very impressed with the precise trim and mapping performance given by my Terramow V1000 in my small-to-medium-sized yard.

In addition, the compact mower was easy to set up and connect via the app, with intuitive controls and settings.

Plus, for a novice in the world of robot mowers, these user-friendly features were a much-welcome bonus.

However, despite the razor-sharp trim, I noticed the robot lagged once it reached the more challenging slopes of my lawn and a paved path — in which case it would often get a little stuck (despite having rear-wheel drive).

While it wasn’t a dealbreaker helping it along past that point, it did make me realize that not all yards are suitable for standard domestic robot lawnmowers.

Typically, robot lawnmowers can work on all types of (mostly-flat) lawns; however, you’ll likely need a more powerful model to tackle uneven or steep inclines with ease.

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” said Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna.

“Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

In fact, my experience with the Terramow V1000 is a stark contrast to when I put the remote-operated Mowrator S1 4WD Lawnmower through its paces a couple of years ago. Although it’s not fully automated, I found it to be a mighty powerhouse for my yard. It handled my tricky hills and steep gradients effortlessly, delivering truly impressive results.

In any case, I still preferred the hands-free convenience of the Terramow any day. Plus, I liked how it was user-friendly, had smart features, and a compact size — making it easier to store away.

So, whether you’re looking to upgrade your mower or simply want your weekends to be stress-free, be sure to evaluate your lawn’s dimensions and terrain before choosing a mower with enough muscle to navigate your lawn’s challenges.

For more top tips, check out buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider before you get one.

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I don’t mind mowing my backyard; it’s small, level, and is more or less a rectangle.

My front yard is another story. Despite it being half the size, it’s on a hill — about 20 degrees — and in order to get to it, I have to carry a lawnmower up several steps. So it’s been with great relish that I’ve been able to test robot lawnmowers for the past few years. It’s certainly saved me time and aggravation.

But it hasn’t all been easy. There have been plenty of issues I’ve encountered during the setup process and while using robot lawnmowers that had me wondering if I should just go back to mowing my yard myself.

Having tested several models over the past five years ranging from $1,000 to more than $2,500 (and edited reviews of several others), there’s a few pieces of advice I’ve picked up that should help you make a more informed decision when buying and using your first robot lawnmower.

Know your yard

There’s no point in getting a robot lawnmower that’s overbuilt for your yard, and in fact, may work to your detriment — and your wallet.

Find out the square footage of your yard, and then find a robot lawnmower that fits those dimensions. If you get a mega-sized lawnmower but have a postage stamp for a yard, the larger mower may actually have trouble mapping everything properly.

In fact, I was testing the $2,500 Segway Navimow X4 — which to be sure is really cool — but ironically, it couldn't effectively get to all of my small yard. Segway replaced it with the $1,399 Navimow i215 LiDAR, which may not look like something out of a science fiction movie, but costs half as much, and is actually able to mow my whole lawn. (Stay tuned for my full review.)

Yes, there are some truly impressive mega-robots, like the Yarbo, but there’s no sense spending upwards of $2,000 for a lawnmower when something half the price will do.

At the same time, you’ll also want to take into account if your yard has any steep dropoffs or angles, and look for a robot lawnmower that can handle those inclines. There’s been a couple of lawnmowers that worked perfectly well in my backyard, but struggled on the incline in the front, digging divots into the ground.

Boundary wires are so three years ago

When robot lawnmowers first arrived, you had to install a boundary wire around your yard; the lawnmower would then randomly bounce around inside the border until everything was mowed, not unlike the original robot vacuums. It was a real pain, especially when the mower would accidentally run over the wire and slice it in two.

The newest models do away with all that. Using a combination of GPS, Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) and cameras, robot lawnmowers can now accurately map your yard without that time-consuming step. Now, the bot can autonomously map your lawn, or you can just drive it around the edges.

So, look for a robot lawnmower that uses RTK; it’ll cost a little more than the older boundary wire models, but this is definitely worth the added convenience. Plus, the newer models also have more advanced features like obstacle avoidance.

They’re not set-and-forget

As smart as robot lawnmowers have become, they’re still not all that intelligent. Even if they manage to do a good job of autonomously mapping your yard, you’ll still most likely have to tweak the maps they create to ensure they’re mowing everything properly, and not running over your prized petunias.

Case in point: My front yard is bisected by a walkway with a few landings and stairs, as well as a few dropoffs on the sides. Despite me manually mapping the yard each time, almost every robot lawnmower I’ve tested will manage to take a tumble down a step or two, or manage to get itself stuck on a ledge. Fortunately, all of the robot lawnmowing apps I’ve used let you tweak the boundaries fairly easily.

You’re still going to have to do some work around the edges

Sorry to say, but a robot lawnmower isn’t going to magically eliminate all your yardwork. While they’re getting pretty good at edging, I still have to go and use my string trimmer to touch up areas around the borders, as well as the strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street.

And, unless you get the aforementioned Yarbo and all its attachments, you’ll still need to rake the leaves from your yard in the fall (or you could opt to leave them in place).

Your neighbors are going to stare

While robot lawnmowers are fairly common in Europe, they’re still a novelty in the U.S., so every time my mower is out doing its rounds, passers-by almost always stop to watch it mowing. It becomes a bit of a conversation piece if I happen to be outside at the time, so it’s a good way to chat with your neighbors and get to know them better.

Do you own a robot lawnmower? If so, how long have you had it, and what sort of things have you experienced? Let me know in the comments.

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Summer is when jade plants either thrive or struggle. The intense heat, longer days, and seasonal changes stress plants differently than other times of year. If your jade is suddenly dropping leaves, the cause is likely tied to summer conditions.

Jade plants are resilient succulents that can live for decades, but they communicate distress through leaf drop. Once you identify what's wrong, the fix is usually simple.

Here's how to diagnose the problem and get your jade back to healthy growth before fall arrives.

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I've always found growing tomatoes tricky. Every year, I make a new attempt, but the results are inconsistent. One year, I'll get a few worthy of a salad, the next it'll be a total fail.

And as I sat out in my yard recently, I stared at this year's yield – tomato plants that had stopped growing entirely. So, I did what I love to do and headed online to social media to see if I could find an answer.

Fortunately, tomato growing hacks are never hard to find, from using this common kitchen scrap for zero-waste gardening to trying out an ingenious tomato-watering trick, but this time I was looking for something that would switch up my tomato growing game altogether.

Then, I found a TikTok that told me I've actually been doing it all wrong. It turns out we should all be planting our tomato plants horizontally. It might sound crazy, but it's actually a stroke of genius. Here's how it works.

How does it work?

I'm a sucker for TikTok creator, @creative_explained's videos and I'm not the only one. With over 7.5m followers, he's known for consistently sharing quick home and garden hacks with an enthusiasm that's infectious. I should know; I've been using his money-saving hack for giving my plants a boost this year, and I've been shocked by the results.

But it's this tomato planting hack that caught my attention this time. As he demonstrates, you take a tomato plant and strip all the leaves off the stalk, leaving just the top shoot with one leaf.

Then, you dig a trench in your garden bed. After exposing the roots of your tomato plant and breaking apart the soil at the base, lay the entire plant horizontally into the trench.

Bury the entire stalk with soil, leaving just the top shoot and leaf exposed. Raise just this part and hold it vertically with soil.

He explains: "What's going to happen now underneath the soil is that the tomato will grow roots all along its stem.

It'll start to grow new shoots. The stem pretty much transforms into an entire root system." Genius.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I fear I may have found this hack a little late for the tomato growing season, but with hot weather in my area, I figured I could still transplant outside with a totally new tomato plant to hand.

Planting it horizontally was simple enough, even if it did feel like a strange process. I've had success with @creative_explained's hacks before like using potato peel water in my soil, so I'm looking forward to seeing the results. In terms of process, it was easy to do, though I needed to find a space in my garden bed that was long enough to accommodate.

Fortunately, I recently dug up some old rhubarb that was suffering in the heat, so I had the space to try out this horizontal planting trick. Now, I just need to wait until fall to see the results, but it feels good to try out something entirely new for a change. Growing tomatoes is a tricky business, but this might well be the solution I've been desperately searching for.

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If there is one gardening chore that always feels like a losing battle, it’s dealing with those pesky weeds.

Whether they’re taking over my lawn and paved patio or surfacing between the gravel in my front yard — they seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while I’ve tried everything from commercial weed killers to homemade natural hacks, experts all agree that nothing beats pulling the taproot up by hand or with the right weeding tool.

Although there are various specialty tools like Grampa’s Weeder to spare your back from the strain, you don’t always need to splash out on new gear. I’ve just stumbled across one clever alternative that handles the hard work for you, and it’s likely already sitting in your toolkit or among your leftover decorating supplies.

Here’s why your painter’s tool could be a game-changer in the backyard.

How to use a painters tool to remove weeds

It turns out that your painter’s scraper or 5-in-1 tool can do so much more than just remove wallpaper. Experts have suggested it as an effective tool for getting into awkward spots to tackle weeds, especially in the tiniest of cracks.

Simply use the pointed end of this tool to get into those tight spots. In fact, the sharp edges are perfect for reaching into tiny crevices in patio pavers or driveways to pull out those persistent garden intruders.

In addition, this versatile multi-tool is great for clearing away thick moss, digging out deep-seated roots, or even cutting through bags of compost and soil. So it’s a win-win.

Whenever you can, using a scraper is much more efficient than the back-breaking task of hand-pulling. But if you prefer the manual method, experts agree you must remove the entire taproot to ensure those persistent weeds don't resurface.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels."

So before you head out to buy expensive weeding gear, you might want to take a look at your existing toolkit or leftover DIY stash for a clever weeding alternative.

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Summer has arrived, and I’m already planning my favorite activities — from scenic park picnics and road trips to various outdoor excursions. And there’s no doubt that having one of the best coolers is ideal to keep all your beverages and snacks chilled and refreshing.

The trouble I find is that most of them are either bulky and cumbersome (read: boring-looking), or simply too expensive. Plus, I needed something compact that wasn't too heavy to carry around, only for a few essential items.

That’s why this new IKEA SOLUPPGÅNG Cooler basket instantly caught my attention. Made from a bamboo design, this basket is not only sleek and lightweight to carry but does a good job of disguising the fact that it’s actually a cooler.

What’s more, this limited-edition essential is a steal at just $40, and I’d say it’s a worthwhile investment for the summer.

So if you’re looking to spruce up your outings or need a budget-friendly way to chill your drinks, here’s why I’ll be grabbing this cooler basket today.

Why the new IKEA Cooler will be my summer go-to

Perhaps one of the key selling points for me is that this IKEA find resembles a chic picnic basket rather than a typical, clunky cooler. But unlike most baskets, this is lightweight to carry around, thanks to a sturdy, solid bamboo handle.

It also has a four-gallon capacity, which is adequate to keep a few large bottles and tasty snacks chilled for the afternoon. The cooler also features a dedicated insulating liner, while individual sections ensure that your snacks, drinks, and cooling elements are all separated.

Another feature I love is the detachable bamboo lid, which only adds to the basket’s overall chic aesthetic.

What’s more, it’s compact enough for car travel or storing in tight spots — plus its attractive design does a great job of disguising its true purpose. Not bad for just $40, which won’t break the bank.

Be it going on beach trips or park music festivals, I’ll certainly be making the most of this cooler this summer.

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I used to live in an apartment, and the defining decision that led us to move to a house was the desire for a backyard.

I was lucky enough to have somewhat of an outdoor space, but let's use this term loosely: it was a teeny tiny terrace, which I did love, but it was admittedly a little too small when we had guests over in the summertime.

And then there was the gardening side — the one thing I always tried (and failed) to do on my terrace was to grow flowers and herbs. All this time, I thought I wasn't green-fingered. But skip to now, and you'll find wildflowers, an olive tree, and even a (soon-to-be) cherry tomato plant in my yard.

Why am I telling you this? If you're not in a position to move house for the sake of growing some flowers or herbs, then I've found an impressively cheap balcony hack for budding gardeners who'd like to start growing their own produce. And most of it is available at IKEA. Who'd have thought?

As it turns out, using a rolling utility cart to grow a container garden is the small backyard or balcony hack that we've all been overlooking.

A genius way to plant your own produce, and better yet: it's movable should you move apartments or need to bring your herbs inside to protect them from the weather.

This genius IKEA hack requires just a few items and a squeeze of patience when planting. It'll be sure to wow guests and add some color to your dinner plate this summer and beyond.

Better yet? It brings some much-needed life to a balcony or terrace space, and it fits into a corner with ease, so it won't take up much of your precious balcony floorspace at all.

Here's how to get started on yours:

What you need

• IKEA's RASKOG Utility Cart - $29.99/ £19
• 3 potted herbs of your choice
• Fast-draining potting mix — like this bag from Amazon
• Some felt planter liner like this from Amazon

What to do

One of the best things about this utility cart is the fact that its shelves are designed with mesh bases to allow for optimum ventilation.

So, instead of having to drill drainage holes into each shelf to prevent waterlogging, you can keep your toolset in the garage. Instead, a felt planter liner will come in handy.

These are easy to cut to size and are super breathable. This way, your soil won't drain through the mesh shelf bases, but your plants will still drain!

I'd avoid mixing herbs and just stick to one herb type on each shelf. This way, they won't compete for nutrients — some herbs like mint are fast-spreading and will take over.

Depending on what you're planting, it might be smart to place water-loving herbs at the bottom of your cart, as these will get plenty of extra water from the drainage from the middle and top shelves.

It's a good idea to first pop each pot in the center of each shelf (plant inside the pot). Add the soil around the pot and pat it down so everything is compact and tight. Give it a little water.

Then, remove each pot slowly, and you'll be left with a hole from the pot. Remove the herb from the pot and place it in this perfect-sized hole. Water again.

Good to know

When watering, remember that the drainage needs to go somewhere, so you might find it beneficial to pop a tray of some sort underneath the bottom shelf of your utility cart, just in case.

The wheels on this cart are lockable, but these wheels also make it great for moving in and out of the sun. It also comes in 4 colorways — beige/yellow, gray/green, pink, or white.

You should move it inside in extreme weather; just be mindful of your floor and perhaps use a towel to protect from any spillages.

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When it comes to common pests in our backyard, skunks are probably the worst kind. Not only can they destroy your plants and lawn by digging for food sources such as grubs, but they can unleash a pungent, sulfuric odor that lingers throughout your entire property.

To make matters worse, while these striped critters may look harmless, they can carry diseases such as rabies and salmonella. They can also spread canine distemper, a condition that can be deadly for dogs.

That’s why it’s so important to know how to get rid of skunks and keep them away for good. Since they are primarily nocturnal, they can be harder to spot while feeding at night.

What’s more, even though humans find their stench unbearable, these pests are actually repelled by a specific, surprising scent — and it’s not coffee grounds.

So if you want to banish skunks immediately, use this trick to drive them away from your property today.

How to use kitty litter to repel skunks

For cat parents out there, your pet’s bathroom habits could actually be a game-changer. It turns out that skunks hate the pungent smell of used kitty litter, thanks to the strong ammonia found in cat urine.

To use kitty litter effectively, place the tray or container at the entry points where skunks are getting through. If in doubt, thoroughly inspect your yard, in particular any tucked-away spots like the areas beneath porches, sheds, or garden corners.

Alternatively, if you’d rather not have kitty litter scattered across your yard, simply place it inside a perforated plastic bag. This keeps things tidy while still allowing those repulsive ammonia fumes to escape and deter the skunks.

Bear in mind that this repulsive scent will eventually fade. So to maintain its effectiveness, you’ll need to regularly swap out the old litter for a fresh supply when possible. Plus, it’s a great way to repurpose and put your kitty litter to good use — a win-win!

Top tips to get rid of skunks

Of course, you don’t have to invest in a cat just to repel skunks from your yard. There are other, practical things you can do to make your yard less inviting for such pests.

First of all, secure your garbage/trash cans and don't let them overflow. Since skunks are attracted to areas where they can find food sources, you’ll often find them turning over trash cans and generally making a mess. The same goes for other food sources you might leave out for birds or other pets, and remove stagnant water that serves as another major skunk magnet.

Another top tip is to block any visible entry points, as such pests are notorious for digging dens beneath sheds, porches, foundations, and even under AC unit pads. Experts suggest sealing these crevices using metal flashing or sturdy hardware cloth. Just ensure every connection is tight and flush to keep them out for good.

Alternatively, if you’re dealing with a persistent skunk issue, it’s always best to call in the professionals and NEVER try to handle a skunk yourself.

For more top tips, check out how to spot the signs of a skunk and keep them away from your property.

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With the arrival of summer, seasonal pests are at their absolute peak — and ants are my number one problem.

And if it’s not trying to banish ants from my yard or blocking them from my kitchen — now they've launched a full-scale invasion of my garden beds too.

We’ve been trying to grow a vegetable patch in my raised planter — where we’ve recently planted everything from fresh herbs and salad greens to melon seeds. But that took a frustrating turn when I discovered the soil had become a playground for ants, literally swarming on the soil and attacking some of the plants.

Since I didn’t want to contaminate my crops with chemicals, I called on the gardening experts to share some top tips on the most effective ways to save my raised beds from these tiny invaders.

What causes ants to invade raised beds?

One thing that always puzzled me was what attracted ants to my raised beds — especially when it’s literally off the ground.

"Ants usually follow one of two things — food or real estate,” states Kyle Turner, President & CEO of Be Proactive Pest Control. “Raised beds offer loose, well-drained soil that's perfect for tunneling, and if you have aphids on your vegetables, you've basically opened an all-you-can-eat buffet."

What’s more, scale insects or other sap-feeding pests produce a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew, which is enticing to ants who collect it as a tasty food source.

“The issue is when large colonies begin disturbing roots or protecting aphids from their natural predators.”

Another thing I learned is that during these sweltering temperatures, consistently dry soil provides the ideal environment for a colony to thrive, which perfectly explains the infestation I found. Plus, if you have rotting timber around older raised beds, this will also attract these tiny critters.

Surprisingly, not all ants are a cause for concern and may actually be helpful in the yard.

“It is also worth remembering that a few ants in a raised bed are not always harmful,” adds Rick Young, Pest Control Professional and Owner of Youngs Pest Control.

“Ants can aerate the soil and remove dead insects. Action is usually only needed when there is a large nest, plants are being disturbed, aphids are being protected, or ants are repeatedly entering the home from the planter.”

How to get rid of an ant infestation without harming your plants?

So, what’s the best way to remove an army of ants? "The best long-term fix is to eliminate the reason they're there,” suggests Turner.

“If aphids are present, knock them off plants with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap. Once the honeydew disappears, the ants often lose interest. For nests in the bed, repeatedly soaking the colony with water can encourage them to relocate without affecting your vegetables."

In addition, always inspect your plants and ensure they are in good shape. "Keep plants healthy, inspect the undersides of leaves regularly for aphids, harvest ripe produce promptly, and avoid letting weeds establish around the beds since they can host both aphids and ants," Turner adds.

Another top tip is to ensure you regularly give your raised bed a deep watering. Since ants prefer dry, well-drained nesting sites, watering can encourage them to move along.

Just be sure not to overwater, as you want to avoid the risk of waterlogging or ruining your plant roots.

What natural ant repellents can I use?

I’m a big advocate for using non-toxic pest solutions around the house, and it turns out that beyond D.E (food-grade), everyday kitchen staples can be just as effective at keeping ants at bay.

“Cinnamon applied around the bed perimeter works as a genuine deterrent, not just folklore,” advises Glen Chandler, Gardener & Founder of Evergreenseeds.com. “Ants avoid crossing it, and it breaks down harmlessly into the soil. Reapply after rain.

“Diluted peppermint oil (about 10 drops per litre of water) sprayed around the base of plants disrupts the scent trails ants use to navigate. It needs to be reapplied every few days, but it's completely safe around edibles.”

What’s more, I tried citrus peel in my kitchen when I had a few rogue ants, and I was impressed at how effective it was. Plus, it was a good way to repurpose my food waste.

“Citrus peel worked into the top layer of soil releases d-limonene as it breaks down, which ants strongly avoid,” agrees Chandler. “I tell gardeners to save their lemon and orange peels through the week and work them in around the bed edges.”

Armed with these expert-approved tips, I feel much better equipped to banish any ant colony from my raised beds and reclaim my garden this season. Watch this space.

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When it comes to house chores, vacuuming has got to be the one task that I often do (and find weirdly satisfying).

And since I review the best vacuum cleaners for a living, I’ve got the bonus of testing out the latest models on my hardwood, tiles, and carpet to see which one can ultimately get my floors spotless and dust-free in no time.

From bagged and upright to cordless and air-blasting handhelds, I’ve tested them all. But when the Shark BlastBoss came my way, I found a new use for it altogether – and it wasn’t for cleaning.

Despite looking like a retro hair dryer, the BlastBoss is exactly that — it’s a powerful, air-blasting system that can be used to blast away cobwebs, dustballs, or loosen debris and leaves in seconds.

In fact, the adjustable-speed trigger can ramp up the airflow up to an eye-watering 190mph. What's more, it comes with attachments including a broom brush for scrubbing outdoor surfaces.

But while it serves as an impressive cleaning tool for shifting ingrained dirt, this has surprisingly become my gardening must-have.

Here’s how I’ve put my handheld BlastBoss to use outdoors.

Blowing grass clippings

If there is one outdoor task that I find particularly tedious, it’s raking the lawn after a fresh mow — especially the struggle of catching those stray clippings that always seem to end up on my paved patio.

I simply switched the setting to ‘Outdoor’ and was literally blown away by its sheer power. It effortlessly cleared the clippings in seconds, allowing me to gather everything into a single pile for a far more efficient clean-up.

Just bear in mind that you’ll need dry conditions for this to work effectively, as it won’t shift wet or soggy clippings.

Or if you really want to put your clippings to good use, check out why you should be leaving grass clippings on your lawn after mowing.

A handy leaf blower

At the back of my garden, the overgrown trees are often shedding foliage — resulting in a messy carpet of leaves scattered across the patio and lawn.

Rather than investing in a bulky, expensive leaf blower, I found the BlastBoss works as a surprisingly good alternative for clearing away my fallen leaves.

I was able to blast them into a tidy heap where it was easier for me to dispose of them in my compost bin. What's more, this task was quick and fuss-free, which is always a bonus.

Clearing debris/ weeds

Similarly, this powerful gadget proved brilliant for corralling stray weeds and general outdoor detritus.

After the arduous job of pulling out weeds from between my front paving stones, I used the powerful airflow to blast the remnants into a single heap for a far easier clear-up.

Not only did this make sure that all the weeds were in one spot (easy for me to spot), but made it a far more tidy-looking space.

For more weeding tips, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

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We’ve all been there: you spot a bizarre, brightly colored bug crawling on your tomato plants or a strange, furry moth hovering near your flowers, and you want to know what it is right now. But rather than typing desperate, vague descriptions into a Google search bar, there’s a much faster way to decode your backyard.

Hidden directly inside your iPhone's standard Photos app is a remarkably powerful machine learning tool that turns your camera roll into an instant nature scanner.

I’ve spent the last week or so pointing my camera at every leaf and brick wall in my yard to see just how accurate this built-in feature really is. Here is how to find the button on your phone, and the wildest garden bugs it's helped me identify so far this summer.

How the feature works

The next time you snap a crisp close-up of a creature or plant, simply open that image in your Photos and look closely at the action bar running along the bottom of the screen.

If your iPhone recognizes a subject in the frame, the standard information circle icon will automatically transform, signalling that Visual Look Up is ready. Tap that, then hold the answer to have Siri pull up more information about your snapped subject.

The best part about this is that it isn't just a dead end. Once Siri identifies the insect, you don't have to stop there. Because iOS now supports conversational continuity, you can actually get into a back-and-forth chat with Siri about the specific thing you’ve found.

You can ask follow-up questions like whether it's dangerous to your tomato plants, what its lifespan is, or how to encourage more of them to visit, allowing you to learn much more without ever leaving your photo library.

Identifying my garden neighbours

Once you know how to trigger it, your photo library essentially becomes a real-life Pokédex. I’ve spent the summer pointing my lens at the grass and garden walls to see how many 'rare spawns' I could find, and I’ve cataloged a bizarrely brilliant cast of characters that I used to walk right past.

My absolute favorite find was a frantic, hovering blur near my lavender. A quick scan unmasked it as a Hummingbird Hawk-Moth, an insect that mimics a bird so perfectly I thought I'd stumbled upon some rare phenomenon, but I was soon schooled about the day moth's lore.

Suddenly, every morning (and evening) became a game of hunting down new species. I used the tool to log a tiny, striped Zebra Spider, spot a Scarlet Tiger Moth hiding by the nettles, and a Red-veined Darter dragonfly.

By the time I had logged everything from grasshoppers to metallic beetles, my perspective on my yard had completely shifted. Thanks to this one iPhone feature, I now see my garden for what it is: a beautifully complex, thriving ecosystem.

Why don't you have a go at scanning your own backyard. Just don't blame me when your camera roll is completely taken over by bugs.

More from Tom's Guide

• I tried the new Siri AI features: here's 3 you'll actually want to use every day
• Apple hid a perfect 'dumb phone' feature inside your iPhone that's great for kids — here's how to turn it on
• The price of new phones is skyrocketing — 8 habits to make your current one last for years

Last Halloween, I had both a 12-foot Home Depot skeleton and a 20-foot inflatable Lowe's skeleton in my front yard, and the inflatable proved to be the more popular decoration.

This year, however, Home Depot's new 12-foot Skelly may retake the crown, as it's being updated to include more lighting, sound effects, and the ability to move, which should really thrill and delight the trick-or-treaters in my neighborhood.

Here's a look at what the new 12-foot skeleton — which goes on sale today for $379 — can do.

A "smart" Skeleton

The new Skelly is Bluetooth-enabled and can be controlled via an app, which will let you save up to 30 different sounds and control the movement of its head and jaw.

The app will also let you switch its LED eyes between 30 different options, pick from five pre-recorded sounds, and change the color of the lighting in its ribcage. Plus, motion sensors in the Skelly will also trigger its movements when it spots trick-or-treaters coming to your door.

If that's not terrifying enough, a "live" mode will also let you control the Skelly in real time, and have it speak whatever you say with voice-changing effects. I can see having a lot of fun with that.

Home Depot will also continue to sell the non-app controlled 12-foot Skelly for $299.

More things wicked this way come

In addition to the new Skelly, Home Depot is also launching about two dozen new animatronic Halloween decorations, including:

• An 11-foot Giant-Sized LED Mummy ($299) with posable shoulders, LED lights in the eyes and chest, and three sound effects
• A 9-foot Wicked Woods Giant-Sized LED Dry Rot Dennis ($299) that has color changing LED lights in the eyes, mouth and chest
• A 3-foot animated Disney Stitch ($199) with servo motors in its head, can say 5 Stitch phrases, and comes with both Halloween and holiday costumes
• An 8-foot long LED Zombie Velociraptor ($299), which is motion-sensor activated and can move, make noises, and has LED lights
• A 4-foot animated Flying Monkey from "Wicked" ($199) that has flapping wings, lunging torso, tilting head and moving mouth, in addition to five sound effects.

All of the new products go on sale today (July 16), which seems really early for Halloween — talk about holiday creep — but if the past is any indication, the new Skelly should prove popular. Some of the products, such as the new Skelly, will only be available as in-store purchases.

Time to clear out more space in your garage!

There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes. And if you enjoy picking these straight from the vine and into your dishes (or mouth), it can be a letdown when your crop misses that bold, juicy flavor you had hoped for.

However, even though it looks ripe and ready for the picking, you’ll need to know the best stage of ripeness for picking a tomato.

What’s more, tomatoes on the vine are constantly at risk of damage from weather extremes, pests, and disease. Which is why identifying the ideal time to harvest is crucial for securing a high-quality, delicious yield.

So if you want to avoid a bland and disappointing crop, here are the three tomato picking stages — to ensure they are bursting with the juicy flavor you crave.

1. When your tomatoes are fully ripe and red

This is when your tomato crops have reached their full size, red color, and are firm in texture. These signs indicate that your harvest is ready for consumption, and experts suggest eating or using them immediately after they are picked for maximum flavor.

However, after harvesting, be sure you consume them within a day or two to enjoy them before their peak flavor begins to fade.

It’s also worth noting that the kind of tomato plant you select is vital for its final flavor.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D, horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield. Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before choosing which seeds to sow, you should investigate which particular cultivars align with your preferred flavor profiles.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. The ‘color break’ or turn stage

As the name suggests, this is the point at which the fruit begins to get color, about the size of a dime on the blossom end.

While it’s tempting to pluck and eat the fruit at this stage, you may be disappointed with the overall taste, as it hasn’t yet fully ripened.

A top tip is to place them on a countertop at room temperature for three days, and the tomato should ripen — ready for your tasty dishes.

Of course, if you want to keep them for longer, store them in the fridge for a few days.

3. Mature green stage

This is when your plant has a lighter green color but no pink/red showing yet on the blossom end. Typically, this indicates that your tomatoes are not quite ready to harvest, and usually takes about a week to fully ripen.

However, you can pluck and store them in the fridge for a few weeks at this stage of development. In addition, gardeners usually harvest mature green crops as the season ends to protect them from frost.

Top tip for tasty tomatoes

Although the heatwave might encourage more frequent watering, overwatering your plants can actually wash out the bold flavor you desire.

To avoid diluting those essential sugars and acids, a good tip is to water only once the upper two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer.

“Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll need to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering.

Add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all vital for healthy development and full flavor.

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest