After an unusually warm fall, many yards are still showing signs of late-season wildlife activity. Extended mild weather encourages wild rabbits to breed later into the year than usual, meaning shallow nests that typically appear in mid-spring can linger well into the cooler months.

As you head out for late-season garden tidy-ups, raking leaves or giving the grass a final cut can easily unearth a suspicious depression in the turf.

Before running the mower across it or filling it in, a quick check ensures the young have safely vacated the nest and that your lawn can be tidied without disturbing any remaining kits.

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Few things spoil a manicured garden faster than stray grass sneaking across the boundary line. You can spend hours mowing, edging, and weeding your lawn, only to look down and find vigorous runners from next door pushing beneath the panels and invading your borders. It looks messy, creates double the maintenance work, and pulling it out by hand only delays the inevitable.

The issue comes down to plant biology rather than poor gardening habits next door. Grass doesn’t care about boundary lines — it sends creeping roots sideways just beneath the soil, while wind easily blows seeds right under the fence panels. If you want a clean dividing line that lasts, you have to cut off their underground route.

1. Install an underground root barrier

One of the most effective ways to halt creeping grass is to block its roots below the soil line while simultaneously stopping its surface runners above ground. Flexible garden edging made from heavy-duty plastic, metal sheeting, or slim concrete strips creates a physical wall that aggressive roots and runners struggle to penetrate.

To set one up properly, carve out a narrow trench directly along your boundary or fence line, aiming for a depth of roughly four to six inches. Slot your edging material vertically into the channel so that it sits an inch or two above the soil line —this small lip is crucial for stopping surface runners from jumping over.

Then backfill the soil firmly on both sides to pack out any air pockets, keeping the barrier secure and low-profile while it blocks creeping roots from crossing the gap.

2. Build a gravel or mulch buffer zone

If digging deep trenches along an entire boundary feels like too much work, creating an inhospitable barrier zone above ground works almost as well.

Clear out any existing green shoots directly beneath the fence line, unroll a durable layer of breathable landscape fabric along the strip, and pin it flat with ground pegs. Then simply top it with a three to four inch layer of decorative gravel, crushed stone, or dense bark mulch.

The gravel stops water from collecting, making the ground far too dry for shallow surface roots to settle, while bark naturally blocks sunlight from feeding new growth. As an added bonus, if any rogue weeds manage to sprout in the loose stones, you can pluck them out in seconds.

3. Lay down a hard-wearing mow strip

For anyone looking for a permanent, fuss-free boundary, laying a solid mowing strip right under the fence provides the neatest finish.

Sinking concrete slabs, stone pavers, or bricks flat into the ground does double duty: it completely blocks the soil under the fence panels, while giving your lawnmower wheel a flat track to run along.

While it takes a bit of measuring and levelling to put in, it saves you from having to awkwardly strim against wooden fence posts every weekend. If the occasional stubborn blade manages to poke through the cracks between pavers, pouring boiling water straight over it will destroy the roots, without needing to spray harsh weed killers near your plants.

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Just as you start to enjoy the fall colors of the leaves turning to charming shades of oranges, reds and yellows, they start dropping. And unfortunately, if you live near any trees, it's likely that those leaves are landing on your lawn.

Mine has become swamped in what feels like a matter of days and every year, I find myself with a rake and a dream hoping I can get the job done as quickly as possible.

But this year looks like it might go differently. I recently came across the 'tarp burrito', a hack that suggests that you can get your leaves cleaned up fast. So, I had to give it a try – and I have to say I was very surprised with the results.

How does it work?

On TikTok, @theblowmaster shares 'landscape industry secrets' to his over 40k followers. But it's his 'tarp burrito' method that caught my eye. While I've followed the 7 tips and tricks to raking leaves the easy way, one of which is using a tarp to load up your leaves, I never thought to try this.

It's simple. Once you've laid your tarp out, you need to tie up the one end in a knot to securely hold your leaves. He explains: "That way, when you carry it, it folds up like a burrito." He then demonstrates dragging it along the lawn, exclaiming: "You see? It's not going anywhere."

Here's what happened when I tried it

Thankfully, I already had a tarp ready to use (after a good shake of spiders from the garage). But, if you don't have one already, it'll only cost you around $10 to pick one up.

Firstly, I laid the tarp out flat on my lawn so that I could rake all the leaves onto it. And as I started to collect leaves, I realized the wind was working against me. So, I weighed down two corners and decided to tie up my 'tarp burrito' straight away so that I'd stop losing the leaves out the back.

It actually worked surprisingly well, keeping the leaves secure as I moved between the waste and compost bin. I also have side access to my house, so I was able to pull the 'tarp burrito' all the way round to the front of my house to gather more leaves on the front yard.

While I was concerned that tying up the ends would be difficult with the stiffness of the tarp, if anything it worked better. Sure, I still lost some leaves because it was a windy day, but I figure I'd have lost a lot more if I hadn't tried out this hack.

I'd recommend attaching a peg or two or tying up the knot with a rubber band to fully secure it if you're going to be moving the tarp around a lot. But, for a simple leaf clear up on my lawn, it certainly does the job. I'll be using it again every year.

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Fall weather may be upon us, but that doesn’t mean our lawncare duties should go into hibernation just yet. In fact, now is the time to tend to our lawns and ensure they’re in good shape come spring.

And if you’ve noticed that your once lush lawn is looking patchy, soggy, or generally in bad condition, it could point to compacted soil. Essentially, this is when pressure or certain weight squeezes soil particles together. This thick layer blocks any water, essential nutrients, or air from getting into the roots — affecting healthy growth.

But how do you know? And more importantly, what can you do to repair it? To help solve this dilemma, I asked the garden experts to share the key signs of compacted soil, how to test for it, and the best ways to fix it this fall.

1. Water sits on your lawn

Puddles or standing water on your lawn clearly indicate compacted soil underneath. This is because tightly packed ground prevents proper drainage, which can lead to waterlogging, patchy spots, and root disease.

“One of the clearest signs is water sitting on the surface after rain,” states Chris Bonnett, the founder of GardeningExpress.

“If puddles take a long time to drain, it could indicate that compacted soil is preventing water from soaking into the ground properly.

The first step to fix this is to aerate the soil (making holes) to allow it to breathe. Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators.

Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the lawn is badly compacted, a hollow-tine aerator, which removes small plugs of soil and removes the pressure from the soil, may be more effective,” advises Alex Dobson, garden and outdoor space expert at Charles & Ivy.

“For smaller gardens, use a garden fork to make holes across the affected areas, gently rocking it backwards and forwards to open up the soil.”

Just avoid aerating when the ground is very wet or frozen, as this could make waterlogging worse. If in doubt, check out these expert tips on aerating a wet lawn.

2. The ground feels hard

As well as the ground feeling squishy to walk on, you might also encounter a hardened surface. This is especially during the colder fall months.

“You may also notice that the ground feels unusually hard, grass growth has become thin, or moss and algae are appearing in persistently damp areas,” adds Bonnett.

So how do I check for this? Luckily, there is a simple way to check for compaction before you aerate. “A simple way to check is to push a screwdriver or garden fork into the soil when it is slightly moist. If it is difficult to penetrate the ground, particularly in areas where people regularly walk, compaction could be the issue.”

“Fall is a good time to do this, as long as the ground isn’t waterlogged. You can also overseed bare patches to encourage fresh growth. Try to avoid walking on the lawn when it’s wet too, as this can make compaction worse.”

3. The grass is thin or patchy

Another clear warning sign is when your once-lush lawn starts to turn sparse and patchy. When soil becomes heavily compacted, grass roots are starved of essential air and water, making it nearly impossible for your lawn to thrive.

One way to fix this is to overseed your lawn. But before sprinkling more grass seed or lawn feed, you’ll need to check and deal with compacted soil first.

“For lawns with bare patches, overseeding can help the grass fill in once the soil has been improved and conditions are suitable for new growth,” advises Dobson. “If water continues to collect in the same spots, you may also need to look at the garden's drainage rather than relying on aeration alone”.

“Once you've aerated the lawn, try to avoid repeatedly walking over the same areas, particularly when the ground is wet. You can also add stepping stones to the lawn to help prevent the soil from becoming compacted again.”

So if you’ve spotted any of these warning signs on your lawn, the key thing is to loosen the soil and reduce pressure on the grass. Once these issues are fixed immediately, you’ll have lush and healthy grass all year round.

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

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After a scorching summer heatwave and drought left my lawn bare and patchy, I knew it needed serious fall maintenance. I’ve already reseeded the damage, but with winter fast approaching, the big question is whether the grass seed and tender new growth can survive the first frost.

As temperatures drop, you can’t ignore the inevitable; it won’t be that long until you draw back your curtains to find a white, frosty lawn. The exact date of the first freeze depends on your location, but getting your reseeding done early if crucial if you want your new seed to survive.

Can grass seed handle frost?

Whether your newly seeded lawn can survive a frost depends on two things. If the seed has not germinated the frost won’t kill it. Instead it will go dormant in the soil, and it should survive, then germinate once the temperatures warm up.

But it’s another issue if the seed has already germinated and started to sprout. At this point it doesn’t have the strength and root system to store energy to help it survive a cold blast.

What is the ideal time to plant grass seed?

If you’re sowing grass seed this fall, give it at least six weeks before the first frost so the roots have time to establish. If you don’t already know the first frost date in your area, you can enter your ZIP code in The Old Farmer’s Almanac Frost Calculator. This should tell you whether you’ve left it too late to sow grass seed, or if you still have a 6-week window to get your seed sown.

Can you protect your grass seed from frost?

The best scenario is to sow your seed in good time before the first frost is expected in your area, or if you’ve missed this window, wait until the weather gets warmer in the spring.

However, if you’ve already sown your lawn seed and you expect a frost before it’s had time to establish and have the strength to fight the frost, there are ways you can protect it.

1. Lay light polythene sheeting or garden fleece over the seeded area. This will trap in ground heat and stop the freezing air from penetrating. But, you'll need to weigh down the edges to stop it blowing away in the wind.

2. Give your lawn a deep watering late at night before a cold snap will also help the soil retain heat, more so than if the soil is dry.

3. Avoid treading on your reseeded lawn once the frost hits. The blades are brittle and can snap, killing the plant.

4. Add a thin layer of topsoil can help insulate the seed and give it a better chance of survival.

Over to you
Let me know if you have any questions about reseeding your lawn in fall; you can pop them in the comments section below.

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As the mowing season winds down and temperatures start to plunge, packing away your lawnmower is usually the final task on the fall yard work checklist. However, simply wheeling your mower into the shed or garage with a half-full tank of gasoline is a costly mistake.

Stagnant, untreated gas is the single biggest cause of small-engine failure, leading to gummed-up carburetors, rusted fuel lines, and an expensive repair bill — or a completely dead engine when spring rolls around.

Before you store your equipment for the cold months ahead, here is why untreated fuel ruins your mower during seasonal storage, and the simple one-step solution that keeps your engine protected.

1. Why gas goes bad

Most gasoline purchased at the pump contains up to 10 percent ethanol, which works fine when you are burning through a tank every week. The problem arises when that ethanol-blended fuel sits idle in a lawn mower tank for more than 30 days.

Ethanol is hygroscopic, aggressively drawing moisture from the air into the fuel, a process accelerated by temperature fluctuations that cause tank condensation.

Over a few weeks, this trapped water triggers "phase separation," causing a heavy, acidic water-ethanol mixture to sink to the tank's bottom where the carburetor line feeds.

This slurry corrodes metal, destroys rubber seals, and leaves a gummy varnish that clogs the carburetor's microscopic jets. Because of this, next spring the engine will refuse to combust, even with a perfect spark, or it will stall immediately.

2. Stabilize or drain the gas tank

To keep your mower's fuel system pristine over the off-season, you have two choices: treat a full tank with a high-quality fuel stabilizer, or drain the fuel system completely.

If you choose to store it empty, remove any remaining or stale gas from your lawn mower's tank. The safest and cleanest way to do this is by using a manual hand pump. These inexpensive siphons come in various hose lengths and diameters to suit your setup, allowing you to easily transfer fuel into a safe storage container.

If you aren't comfortable siphoning fuel lines or draining the system, adding a fuel stabilizer is the easiest, most reliable method. Fuel stabilizer contains antioxidants and anti-corrosive additives that bond with gasoline molecules, preventing phase separation and stopping fuel oxidation.

To do it correctly, pour the recommended dose of stabilizer into a fresh can of gas, or directly into your mower's tank, and top it off so the tank is roughly 95 percent full.

Leaving a full tank leaves minimal airspace for condensation to form inside the walls.

Once added, run the mower engine for five to ten minutes. This step is critical: running the engine ensures the treated fuel circulates through the entire system, filling the carburetor bowl and fuel lines with stabilized gas.

3. Maintenance steps to finish your mower prep

Once the fuel system is stabilized and protected, spend five extra minutes completing two final winterization steps to ensure your mower starts on the very first pull next spring.

First, disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any accidental starting, tilt the mower up with the air filter pointing upward, and scrape away all caked-on grass clippings and mud from the underside of the deck.

Damp, trapped grass holds moisture against the metal deck all winter long, causing heavy rust and structural corrosion.

Then remove the mower blade and sharpen or balance it now so it is ready for the first spring cut, or simply wipe down the blade with a thin coat of WD-40 or mineral oil to ward off surface rust while stored in a damp shed or garage.

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Fall is here, and it’s already taken its toll on my once-lush, green grass. But before the weather turns too chilly, October provides the perfect opportunity to repair damaged lawns and prepare them for the winter months ahead.

And one essential task is to aerate your lawn to prevent waterlogging and ensure key nutrients reach the soil. However, with constant drizzles and damp conditions expected throughout the fall season, is it okay to aerate a wet lawn?

I asked a lawn care expert to find out and get their top tips.

Can I aerate a wet lawn?

Generally, you can aerate a slightly damp lawn but not when it’s saturated with heavy rain — so it’s important to distinguish between the two.

“A simple rule is that damp is fine, soggy isn’t — if water is standing on the surface or the tines come out coated in sticky mud, wait a few days,” states Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith.

“Spring and fall are the best times to aerate partly because the soil is moist, which makes it easier to get the tines in, and showers can soak straight into the freshly aerated soil. What you don’t want is soil that’s so wet it smears. Then you’re not opening up the soil; you’re sealing it, and you still want air reaching the roots.”

Top tips for aerating a damp lawn

What's the best way to aerate a damp lawn in fall? While there are several ways to aerate your lawn, it’s important to choose the right tool in fall.

Typically, there are two types of aerators – spike and core aerators. Spike aerators literally have long spikes that puncture the ground as you pass over it, while core aerators pull up ‘cores’ of soil as they work, leaving them on the surface.

“If the ground is on the damp side, solid-tine spiking is the gentlest approach, and you can do it any time from March to November, but avoid very wet soil that smears,” advises Davis.

You’ll also need to know the right time to aerate your lawn and best practices. “Fall, from the end of September to mid-November, is ideal as the weather is getting wetter rather than drier,” suggests Davis. “If you’re using a hollow tine aerator, mow the lawn close beforehand as it makes the cores much easier to deal with.

“Cores should be left to dry in place. Then go over them with the mower with the box off, if the instructions allow. It puts the soil and nutrients back into the lawn and helps break down thatch. If you can’t do that, rake them up with the back of a flat rake, use them as top dressing, or add them to the compost heap.

Finally, finish with a good soak on compacted areas. After spiking or hollow tining a heavily compacted patch, run the sprinkler for 30 minutes, then leave it off for a day or two.

Also, look for telltale signs your lawn needs aerating, including patchy, yellow grass or water sitting on the surface after rainfall.

When not to aerate a wet lawn

Besides knowing when it's the right time to aerate wet soil, you should also know when to avoid it. This includes before incoming frost, which can freeze the aeration holes and harm the lawn.

“Don’t aerate very wet soil that smears, and don’t do it if frost is imminent because freezing soon after hollow tining will make the lawn heave up,” adds Davis.

“Don’t leave the cores on the lawn to disappear, as they won’t break down fully and you’ll end up with a bumpy surface. Finally, don’t expect aeration to fix everything. If your lawn is 20 years old or more and badly compacted, you may need to dig it over to at least 15cm and start again.”

For more top tips, check out how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

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Fall has arrived, but cooler temperatures don’t mean you should put away your garden tools just yet. You still have essential tasks to complete to prepare your yard for the winter ahead. And just when you thought it was time to pack away your lawn mower until spring, you may want to think again.

According to a lawn expert, gardeners need to continue mowing through October — because mild fall temperatures allow grass to keep growing.

Not only can this simple task promote a healthy, green lawn, but long grass can actually do more harm than good.

“Long grass holds on to moisture, especially with the damp mornings and heavy dew we get in fall,” says Jonathan Davis, a lawn expert at Lawnsmith.

“That creates the perfect conditions for fungal diseases like red thread and fusarium patch to take hold. Once they get a grip, they can leave your lawn looking patchy and sorry for itself by spring.”

What’s more, moss is one of the most common lawn weeds, known as a ‘silent grass killer’, that appears in the form of green, sponge-like patches between the blades of grass.

“Moss loves damp, shady spots, and at this time of year there's plenty of both. If your grass is long and thick, the light can't reach the base of it, meaning your lawn will struggle.”

So if you want to get your lawn in top shape for spring, here are some top tips for mowing your lawn in October.

How to cut your lawn in fall

Avoid cutting your grass too short; the ‘golden rule’ is to never trim more than a third of its height. This is because mowing too close to the ground exposes the lawn to root diseases and encourages weed growth.

“Never cut more than a third off the height of the grass in one go,” he said. “Think of grass like an iceberg: a fifth above ground and four fifths below,” adds Davis.

“Take too much off, and you reduce the roots, leaving the plant weak and more vulnerable to disease and weeds.”

In any case, if you are battling weeds, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

In addition, Davis advises gradually changing your mower's height for a couple of cuts before making the final adjustment. And don't lower the blades if the grass is very long, as it'll put strain on the mower. Ideally, cut on your current setting first, then go lower a day or two later.

Also, it’s best to get the timing right — choose a dry afternoon for mowing and avoid cutting when the grass is wet or frosty. “Wait for a dry spell and go over it when growth slows right down. A little effort now means a much healthier, greener lawn when spring comes round.”

When is the final cut of the year?

So when is it finally time to put away your lawn mower this season? Experts agree that around mid-November, you should leave the grass at around 5cm.

“That's the sweet spot for winter,” adds Davis. “It's long enough to protect the roots from frost and keep the crown healthy, but short enough that it won't become a soggy, matted mess over the colder months.”

So before you put your mower to rest, give your grass that essential trim this October, and your lawn will thank you for it come spring.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

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Planted grass seed and waiting for those first green shoots to show up can feel like watching paint dry. While most lawn seed takes between 7 and 14 days to germinate, full establishment takes several weeks, and certain stubborn varieties can sit in the soil for up to a month before popping up.

If you want to shorten that waiting window and avoid ending up with patchy, uneven soil, the key is managing soil prep, moisture, and ground warmth right from day one.

The germination rule of thumb: how long will you wait?

Your waiting time depends almost entirely on whether you are planting a fast-sprouting cool-season blend or a slower warm-season grass.

The fast sprouters (5 to 10 days): Perennial Ryegrass is the sprinter of lawn care. If you need rapid coverage for bare patches or high-traffic areas, this is your best option.

The steady performers (7 to 14 days): Tall Fescue and Bermudagrass generally show green shoots within a week to ten days under warm, moist conditions.

The medium growers (14 to 21 days): Zoysia and Centipede grasses take two to three weeks to get going.

The slow-and-steady varieties (14 to 30 days): Kentucky Bluegrass and Buffalograss require some patience. They spend weeks building underground root systems before sending up visible blades.

Which grass seed should you sow in fall?

As we move through fall soil temperatures are dropping, making this the best season to sow cool-season grasses. Varieties like Perennial Ryegrass, Tall Fescue, and Kentucky Bluegrass thrive in cooler weather. They germinate best in soil temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C).

Sowing them in autumn gives their roots two full seasons of cool, moist weather to establish deep anchor systems before the heat of next summer hits. Just remember to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before your region's first expected hard frost.

Steer completely clear of warm-season seeds like Bermuda grass during fall. Bermuda grass requires warm soil temperatures between 65°F and 90°F (18°C to 32°C) to germinate and grow. Planting Bermuda grass in fall means the ground will turn too cold before the shoots can establish strong roots, causing the seeds to fail or die off during winter frosts.

3 ways to make grass seed sprout faster

If you want to cut down germination time and ensure every seed takes root, follow this 3-step routine.

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Fall is official here, and it’s already taken its toll on my previously lush and green grass. But, before things get too chilly, October is the ideal time to repair your damaged lawn and prepare for the colder months ahead.

And if, like me, you’ve tackled this by scattering grass seed on those sparse or bare patches, it can be a little disheartening when you haven’t seen any growth sprouting through at all.

That's why I called on a lawn care expert to find out why my grass isn't growing, common mistakes to avoid, and top tips on how to fix it.

Check the weather forecast

According to experts, now is the time to do those all-important lawn repairs. But the process just takes a bit more preparation than expected, and results will naturally depend on weather conditions and technique.

“Thriving spring lawns are built in fall. Thanks to a shift in weather patterns, soil temperatures are staying warmer for longer,” says Chris McIlroy, a lawn expert at The Grass People.

“If temperatures start to stay consistently below 46.4 °F to 50.0 °F, then the window for sowing is closing, so do keep an eye on the forecast. You need a two-week window where the temperatures are above this.”

In addition, be sure to check your soil temperature using a soil thermometer before seeding. Typically, cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass need soil temperatures below 65°F, while warm-season varieties like Bermuda grass need at least 65°F.

For more top tips, check out how to overseed your lawn in fall.

Protect it from hungry birds

If you enjoy feeding or watching birds in your yard, these feathered visitors might be another reason your grass seed isn't growing.

“Birds can see freshly laid grass seed as an easy-access buffet, especially at this time of year when other food resources are starting to dwindle,” explains McIlroy. “So they’re taking your seed before it even has a chance to germinate."

So what can we do to prevent our hungry birds from swiping our freshly-laid grass seed?

"Shiny objects like tin foil and old CDs can deter birds from your garden, as the way they reflect light confuses them," adds McIlroy.

"Or you can also cover the seeds with tarp or netting, but make sure it’s not blocking too much light or water from the seeds.”

Not sowing deep enough

Another common mistake is failing to plant seeds at the right depth or in suitable growing conditions. “Seeds should be roughly the depth of three stacked coins to ensure the right seed-to-soil contact for germination, advises McIlroy.

“It keeps seeds protected and warm, and provides the nutrients they need to grow. If the elements have left your seeds exposed, try adding a light layer of topsoil to give seedlings that extra support.”

In addition, you need to ensure you water your seeds properly, but don’t oversaturate them. If seeds are waterlogged or sitting in a pool of water, they won't survive. “Seeds also need to be hydrated but not waterlogged. If they’re left too dry, the seeds will die off, so keep an eye on soil moisture levels".

“Fixing drainage by aerating your lawn is a key step for success, ensuring water has somewhere to go when it rains. Similarly, if your lawn is bumpy, this creates areas for water to pool.”

Other tips include feeding your lawn with a starter fertilizer, which can help grass establish faster with stronger roots. Or simply have some patience, and let nature take its course.

"Sometimes seeds just need a little more time; depending on the conditions, germination can take up to 14 days, and noticeable grass growth even longer."

Check out our expert-approved tips on how often you should aerate your lawn and how many passes are best.

You might also be interested in the fall lawn care mistake you’re probably making —and the secret to a greener lawn next spring.

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It's a great time of year to roll out your lawn aerator and get to work. Bringing air into the lawn soil will not only help relieve any pressure and compaction that's happened over the year, but it'll also improve airflow, water absorption and your lawn's overall ability to access nutrients to help it grow.

It's not something you need to do too often, but it's a step you don't really want to miss if your lawn is heavily compacted or struggling to drain water (especially with all the rain).

Only after you put in all that effort to push your lawn aerator across your lawn, you might be left wondering if you've done a good enough job. It's certainly something I've contemplated as I stare at my own lawn, unsure whether I've made any real difference.

I've asked the experts for their professional advice on how often you should aerate your lawn, how many passes are enough, and other tips and tricks to get the best results.

When to aerate your lawn

Soil compaction is the ultimate telltale sign that your lawn needs aerating, but how exactly do you figure out if that's what's going on beneath the soil?

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, says: "Homeowners should consider aeration if they're seeing standing water after rain, hard-packed soil, thinning grass, or areas that get a lot of traffic.

"A good rule of thumb is the screwdriver test: if it's hard to push a screwdriver into the soil, compaction is probably preventing healthy root growth."

And once you've figured out that your lawn needs aerating, you also have to consider if it's a good time to do it.

"Timing is everything when it comes to aeration. The best time to aerate your lawn depends on the grass type you have," explains Chris Ramos, PR & Events Coordinator at Blain's Farm & Fleet

When it comes to cool-season grasses like Fescue and Bluegrass, early fall or spring are ideal times, as these grasses grow most vigorously during colder months.

And if you've got warm-season grasses like Bermuda or Zoysia, then late spring to early summer is optimal, coinciding with their peak growing season.

Though Koenig adds: "However, once the ground freezes or the grass has gone fully dormant, it's best to hold off on aggressive projects like aerating, heavy raking, or major repairs."

Once you've figured out the best time though, Ramos reveals you only really need to aerate your lawn once a year.

How many passes should you make with your lawn aerator

So, you're planning to aerate your lawn, but how many passes should you be making to get the best results?

According to Ramos, one or two passes should relieve soil compaction. In addition, choosing the right tool in the first place will have a major impact on how effective your lawn aeration is.

"There are two types of aerators. Spike Aerators: These tools create holes by pushing spikes into the soil," adds Ramos. "They're simple to use but might not be as effective on highly compacted soil.

"Plug Aerators: These remove small plugs of soil from your lawn, providing more lasting benefits by reducing compaction more effectively. They're generally the preferred option for most lawns."

Additional top tips

Lawn aeration alone isn't all you should be doing. As Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Technical Operations and Agronomy at TruGreen explains: "One of the biggest misconceptions in the industry is viewing aeration as a standalone service.

"The greatest results occur when aeration is intergrated into a comprehensive turf management program that includes proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation, and overseeding practices."

In fact, he suggests that if you're really looking for best practice when aerating your lawn, you should be "overseeding and fertilizing immediately after aerating to maximize growth.

It's also important to leave the soil cores on your lawn after aerating, as they will naturally break down and help recycle nutrients and other beneficial microorganisms."

So, while you can do an excellent job with your lawn aeration, timing it right and carrying out one or two passes until you're satisfied that you've relieved compaction, it's important to take the opportunity to do more for your lawn when it's at its most receptive.

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• How to aerate a lawn and when to do it
• I asked gardening experts the secret to a greener lawn — here's what they want you to do
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Fall is officially here, and upcoming heavy rain and gusty winds can often take their toll on our tidy yards. This is especially true if you’re growing beautiful flowers and plants or have a tasty vegetable garden.

Luckily, there are a few essential tasks you can do right now to prepare your yard for harsh weather. By acting fast, you can protect plants from unexpected early frosts and also protect your yard from the risk of weather damage.

Since October is a time of transition, taking these simple, expert-approved tips will help you prepare for shifting weather ahead of time.

Here are the tasks you need to do right now that can make all the difference this season.

Rake fallen leaves

If, like me, you’ve already spotted fallen leaves piling up in your yard or around plants. The first task is to rake these up immediately and add them to your compost heap.

“You’ll likely start to see fallen leaves gathering in your garden or in other areas of your property,” states Craig Wilson, Co-founder and in-house gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

“Rake these up and store them in a compost bin. You can then use the leaf mould as mulch to insulate borders.”

In addition, the task of insulating your borders now will protect the plant roots from unexpected early frost before winter arrives.

“Once you have cleaned up and tidied your borders, you’ll want to think about getting them insulated before the first frost sets in. Use bark, manure or leaf mould to spread across the top of the soil to help insulate root systems.”

For more tips on what to do with your leaves, check out 7 ways to use fallen leaves in your garden.

Make sure storage is watertight

Torrential rain and fierce winds have already swept over the East Coast this weekend causing power outages, significant flooding and damaging winds.

Before you have to deal with serious damage (or expensive repairs), ensure that your outdoor storage is all watertight to avoid the risk of leaks seeping in and potential flooding.

“As rainfall increases, you’ll want to ensure that any storage, such as your shed, is fully waterproof to avoid any damage to tools and furniture you might be storing in there over the winter,” adds Wilson.

And the last thing you need is a shed full of tools made rusty, or even destroyed, from water damage.

For top tips, check out how to waterproof your shed — expert tips for winter protection.

Move tomato plants indoors and raise harvest

If you’re growing tomatoes or other edibles in pots outdoors, now is the best time to move plants indoors. This is especially important if you want to protect your harvest before the first frost.

“As the temperatures start to drop, it is time to move any tomato and pepper plants indoors to ripen,” states Wilson.

What’s more, if you’re planning some pumpkin treats just in time for Halloween season, be sure to raise pumpkins and harvest them off the ground.

“If you're hoping to harvest some pumpkins for Halloween carving or even autumn decor, make sure to get them raised off the ground and onto bricks or wood.

"This will keep them dry, which will decrease the chances of rot, and will also allow them to get some additional sunlight, which will help to firm up the skin.”

“You’ll also need to keep an eye on the weather forecast. Pumpkins go soft quickly when left outside in frosty weather, so ensure that if frost is due, you harvest your pumpkins beforehand.”

And if you’re worried about pests attacking your pumpkins, I've just discovered the easiest way to stop your pumpkins from rotting.

Your lawn will also benefit from some maintenance in October, here are 7 lawn care tasks to complete this month. Also, don’t wait until spring; here are 3 plants to give your yard an instant fall vibe.

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As nighttime temperatures begin to drop, your lawn is preparing for its winter shutdown. But while established grass is slowing down, early fall actually presents the single best window of the entire year to grow new, thick turf fast.

If you want a lush, green carpet ready for spring, understanding when grass goes dormant, and taking advantage of the crucial weeks right before it happens, is the secret to success.

Here is when your lawn enters winter dormancy, why September and early October are ideal for overseeding, and how to accelerate grass growth before the first frost arrives.

When does grass go dormant?

Grass doesn't die when cold weather arrives. It simply enters a protective state called dormancy to conserve energy and survive freezing temperatures.

For most cool-season grasses (like perennial ryegrass and fine fescues), dormancy is triggered when daytime air temperatures consistently drop below 50°F (10°C) and soil temperatures fall below 46°F (8°C).

As your lawn prepares to sleep for the winter, the shift doesn't happen overnight. Here’s what you’ll see as your grass slips into dormancy:

• Early fall: Blade growth stalls as daily temperatures drop into the 50s. You’ll notice you don’t need to mow nearly as often.
• Late fall: Your lawn loses its bright summer luster and fades slightly as energy retreats from the blades and channels into the root system.
• First hard freeze: Once soil temperatures dip below 41°F (5°C), the grass shuts down completely, holding its ground until warmer weather returns in spring.

Why fall is the golden window to overseed your lawn

Because grass goes dormant in winter, many homeowners assume lawn care ends in late summer. In reality, the weeks leading up to winter dormancy are prime time for overseeding — spreading fresh grass seed directly over an existing lawn to repair tired, bare patches.

Timing this job for early fall yields vastly better results than waiting until spring. Summer's leftover heat stays trapped in the soil to jumpstart rapid germination, while the crisp autumn air keeps delicate tender seedlings from drying out.

Throw in predictable fall rain to handle the watering for you and a seasonal decline in weed growth, and your new grass gets a clear runway to establish deep, sturdy roots completely unbothered by spring weeds.

How to force root growth before grass goes dormant

If you want new seed to establish strong roots, timing is everything. For cool-season grasses, the ideal window is when soil temperatures are between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C). Once soil temperatures drop below the 50°F (10°C) baseline, germination slows drastically or stops entirely.

Also, when consistent fall air temperatures fall to 45°F (7°C), the grass will trigger winter dormancy, leaving late-planted seeds unable to develop the root system needed to survive the winter. Follow the four steps below to guarantee rapid germination and establishment.

More from Tom's Guide

• I brought my brown lawn back to life using these 5 recovery steps
• How to overseed your lawn in fall — and when to do it for the best results
• Those pretty purple flowers are secretly destroying your lawn — here's why wild violets outsmart every weed killer and what actually works

Fall may be officially here, but that doesn’t mean your lawn care duties need to take a back seat. There are a few key things we need to do to protect our grass and keep it healthy and lush year-round.

A lawn care expert reveals the early signs of a critical infestation to look out for and how to deal with this invasive pest — leatherjackets.

This is because September marks the peak egg-laying season for crane flies, which eventually hatch into leatherjackets — which are every gardener’s nightmare.

Not only do these destructive pests thrive by feeding on grass roots and plants, but they can also leave your once-pristine lawn severely damaged.

“Right now, those eggs are just sitting below the surface, waiting for cold and wet conditions to hatch into leatherjackets,” states Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“Although small, these grubs can be a nightmare for your lawn. An infestation can undo all the hard work you’ve put in and leave you with nothing.”

Luckily, there is one task you can do in September to prevent a ‘nightmare’ infestation right now. Here’s how to tackle this issue.

What are leatherjackets and what to look out for?

While the name doesn’t sound like a destructive garden pest, what exactly are leatherjackets (also known as lawn grubs)?

Essentially, these are adult crane flies that lay eggs in the lawn from late summer to October.

Once these eggs hatch into leatherjackets, they live just beneath the soil surface and feed on grass roots once colder weather sets in.

“These pests are legless grubs with tough, leathery skin, typically grey or brown in colour, and can grow up to 3cm in length,” adds Davis. “They thrive by eating the roots of grass and plants, killing their food source as they go. Once eggs hatch, leatherjackets spend the colder months feeding underground before the damage becomes visible in early spring.”

Since these destructive pests live under the soil, we won’t notice the problem until months later. Key warning signs to look out for include grass turning yellow or noticeable patches on the lawn.

While there is no way to stop crane flies from laying their eggs, you can prevent the damage once eggs hatch.

Aerate your lawn to prevent leatherjackets

One top tip is to address poor drainage in your garden by aerating your lawn.

Not only does this avoid waterlogging, but promotes healthy airflow and helps to deliver essential nutrients directly into the ground.

“Lawns with poor drainage create a perfect environment for leatherjackets to thrive, so addressing that now can prevent an infestation taking hold,” advises Davis.

“Aerating your lawn can help improve drainage. To do this, simply create holes in the turf to allow it to breathe and encourage water to disperse.”

Also, heavily shaded gardens can create the perfect environment for leatherjackets. Another tip is to prune overgrown or thick tree branches and clear fallen leaves or any other debris on the lawn.

“Removing thick branches of overhanging trees and bushes can help more sunlight reach the turf,” Davis advises. “Some soils are better than others for drainage. For example, nutrient-dense clay soils can make gardens more prone to flooding.

“And if you often see water pooling in your garden, investigate the type of soil so you know how to nurture the lawn correctly.”

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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• 58% of Americans make this common lawn mowing mistake
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Spotted spongy green growth across your patio or driveway recently? You’ll want to get rid of moss quickly. And while moss might be welcome in certain parts of your yard (think Japanese garden), for the most part, it can look unsightly on our patio. Plus, it's a nuisance to remove from concrete or banish completely — especially during fall.

Typically, moss thrives in damp or humid conditions — and porous concrete is the perfect environment as it holds water easily. In addition, concrete’s texture has microscopic pores, pits, and cracks, which makes it easy for spores to penetrate and grow in these rough spots.

And while you could reach for chemical-laden treatments or blast it away with a powerful pressure washer, I’ve just discovered a common household cleaning staple that does the trick — and no, it isn’t white vinegar.

Unlike white vinegar, which is great for killing moss but is a longer process, this cleaning solution can get to work in just minutes. Best of all, we all have this product in our cleaning caddy. So why is bleach so handy?

How to banish moss with bleach

We often use bleach for killing germs, disinfecting surfaces, and getting rid of yellow stains. However, it turns out that this versatile cleaner can instantly banish moss from concrete too.

Even better, it acts fast to tackle moss in just five minutes, and the results are known to last longer in comparison to traditional vinegar methods.

So what’s the best way to use bleach on concrete patios or paths? First, sweep away any debris or leaves on the concrete surface with a bristle broom/brush before applying your treatment.

Next, experts recommend diluting one part household bleach with four to ten parts water (depending on how thick the moss is) in a pump sprayer or bucket.

Then, directly spray or pour the mixture evenly over the moss-covered concrete, before letting it sit for about 15 minutes.

Once the moss turns brown or white, simply use your stiff-bristled broom or deck brush to scrub away the dead moss, and rinse off the residue/area completely with water until clean.

What NOT to do when using bleach

Since bleach has the power to kill moss, it’s important not to spray any nearby plants or foliage. If you do, however, experts recommend watering them before wrapping them in plastic wrap to protect them from damage.

Additionally, do NOT leave bleach on the concrete surface for more than around 15 minutes, or else it may cause discoloration to the pavers. Bear in mind that bleach is highly toxic, so take precautions when using it and keep it away from children or pets. And use gloves when handling bleach if possible.

So, if you’re struggling to banish pesky moss fast, this clever tip might be sitting right inside your cleaning caddy.

For more top tips, check out 5 ways to get rid of moss in your lawn and keep it green.

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• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
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Discovering unexpected holes peppered across your lawn or garden beds can spark an immediate urge to reach for a shovel or garden hose. Before you attempt to fill them in, it helps to know what creature actually dug them — and what might be resting inside.

While homeowners might assume snakes dig tunnels across the yard, most snakes lack the physical equipment to burrow through dirt. Instead, they operate as opportunistic squatters, moving directly into underground tunnels left behind by rodents, voles, and chipmunks.

These cool subterranean spaces offer ideal shelter from heat and a hunting ground for prey. Knowing how to identify an active snake hideout can help you keep your family, pets, and property safe without unnecessarily disturbing local wildlife.

How to identify a snake hole in your yard

Because snakes do not excavate their own homes, you will not find a standard shape or uniform size. However, several distinct physical indicators can help you determine whether a snake is utilizing an existing burrow.

• Size and structure: Look for openings between 1 and 3 inches in diameter, though larger snakes can squeeze into bigger gaps. Pay close attention to crevices near rock walls, house foundations, and dense shrubbery.
  
• Lack of excavated dirt: Unlike active mammals that push fresh, loose dirt around their entrance holes while digging, a snake moving into a hole leaves no fresh soil piles.
  
• Nearby physical evidence: Check the surrounding grass and dirt for shed snake skins, smooth tail tracks in soft soil, or a complete absence of recent animal gnaw marks near the entrance.
  
• The "vacant" look: If a hole looks old or abandoned by the original rodent digger, it becomes a prime candidate for a snake seeking temperature control or shelter.

What to do if you find a snake hole

If you suspect a hole in your yard is currently harboring a snake, taking the wrong action can quickly turn a peaceful coexistence into a safety hazard.

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Fall has arrived, making September and November the perfect window for mulching flower beds to protect plants before the cooler temperatures set in.

As a thin layer of organic matter on the surface, a natural mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, introduces nutrients as it breaks down, and protects from frost when the temperature drops. Although mulching your yard seems easy enough, there’s one common problem many gardeners face afterwards that ruins their hard efforts.

Typically, after a week, unwanted grass blades begin creeping back through your bed cover until the area starts looking untidy again. And while a traditional solution would be to lay down landscaping fabric, this can often make planting new crops tricky and difficult to remove in the long run.

I’ve recently discovered a hassle-free tip to keep unwanted grass out of mulch beds. Not only does this solution work in just one hour, but it’s completely family and pet-friendly without harming nearby plants.

Use a targeted grass and weed killer to protect your beds

A quick trick is to use a grass and weed killer after mulching — but this will only work on young, newly sprouted grass blades coming through the mulch.

Once grass has matured, the spray may not be as effective at getting to work on thick grass — which might benefit from manual tools.

There are several sprays available in your gardening centers or online such as this Spruce Weed & Grass Killer for $35 on Amazon.

This spray kit is formulated from water, essential oils, and a surfactant, and can treat up to 400 weeds. Better still, it promises to work in just an hour, and the reusable bottle means you can simply buy refills instead of a new kit.

Additionally, gardening experts suggest pruning nearby foliage before applying such treatments. Trimming these surrounding stems beforehand allows for a much clearer path to target rogue shoots at their base.

Lastly, it helps to identify the exact location where grass blades keep growing, so you can apply a targeted treatment — ensuring stray growth stays out of your beds for good.

Bear in mind that this solution will only prevent the growth of young weeds and won’t tackle mature ones. If that’s the case, you’ll need to target the weed taproots. And there are plenty of sturdy weeding tools available to save you from doing this back-breaking task.

Of course, if you don’t want to rely on chemicals to get rid of grass and weeds in your yard, you can check out these 7 ways to kill weeds naturally. Or perhaps you might have this 39-cent weed killer alternative hiding in your laundry cupboard?

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• My lawn was completely fried after the heatwave — to save it I had to stop making these 3 mistakes
• How to sharpen a lawn mower blade in 5 simple steps (and save your grass)

Now that the heatwave is over and the new season begins — our grass might be looking a little worse for wear. This is especially the case if you’ve ended up with a patchy brown lawn that needs some TLC.

What’s more, you’ll want lush, healthy grass all year round by maintaining a good lawn care routine. So how can you revive your patchy lawn after the drought?

Luckily, a lawn expert has revealed that September is the ideal time to begin sowing new seeds — but this only works if you do one vital task before you start. In fact, it’s one of the simplest things that we often forget to do and will make all the difference to the results of our hard efforts.

So, before you start sprinkling your bag of grass seeds, don’t forget to do this one crucial check first.

Check the weather forecast

Since fall weather is so unpredictable, experts suggest you always check your local forecast before seeding, as these conditions can easily ruin germination.

“September is the best time to sow new grass seed, but it’s so important to check the forecast, identifying the temperature and rainfall trends,” advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

“The new seeds will need around two weeks of stable conditions to germinate and establish their first roots; severe weather changes can interrupt the process and leave seeds vulnerable.”

Additionally, you’ll need to get the right balance and ensure the conditions are not too dry or too cold. Both of which can stall the development of your grass seeds, leading to a costly failure where they simply die.

“It only takes a minute, but missing this step could result in a whole bag of seed being wasted,” adds McIIroy. “The soil needs to remain 50°F or above, and you need some rainfall, any frosty nights could interrupt germination.

“If drought conditions continue, grass seed will shrivel and die before it has a chance to germinate. But equally, too much rain can waterlog soil and drown seeds. Not checking the forecast can be a costly mistake, especially when starting a new lawn from scratch.”

However, a little patience will pay off. And he suggests it’s far better to hold out for the ideal environment rather than rushing and wasting your grass seed. Plus, after a parched summer, your lawn must be truly ready for overseeding.

Top tips before seeding your lawn in September

First, you’ll need to remove any debris, tree branches, or dead vegetation to give your new grass the best starting chance.

Additionally, if you find that your grass is parched, you’ll need to know how to aerate your lawn to loosen the soil and allow air and all the nutrients it needs to thrive.

“The new seeds will need good seed-to-soil contact, and if your turf is dry and compacted, you need to scarify and aerate to loosen the soil, ensuring nutrients, air and water can flow easily through the turf,” advises McIlroy.

“Applying a layer of high-quality topsoil also provides an environment for new seeds to thrive in, and a fertiliser can also provide a nutrient boost.”

Another top tip is to get a starter fertilizer that can help to strengthen the young roots as they grow. “Starter fertilisers differ from regular lawn feeds,” McIIroy adds.

“They’re formulated with extra phosphorus to help young roots develop. When you’re sowing new seed, that early root growth is more important than the colour and length on top.

“While September is usually the best time to sow, but it can extend into October if the temperatures allow.”

For more tips and tricks, check out our ultimate lawn care guide for healthy, lush grass. Apart from sowing seed, September is also the ideal month to carry out other key lawn maintenance.

Lawncare essentials we love

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Between the summer heatwave and a strictly enforced watering restrictions, my yard didn't stand a chance. By late August, it looked like a doormat. Straw-like and baked dry — it was tempting to accept defeat and leave it till next year.

Then I caught myself and remembered: a brown lawn is usually just dormant and playing defense. As cool weather and seasonal rain roll in, fall offers the ultimate window for a full comeback. If you follow the right recovery plan.

If you want to transform your drought-damaged lawn into a lush, resilient yard before winter hits, here's what you need to do.

1. Aerate compacted soil

Heat and foot traffic compact soil throughout summer, restricting air and water movement to the root zone. Aeration removes small plugs of soil, opening pathways for water, oxygen, and nutrients to reach the roots.

Fall aeration is particularly effective because the lawn recovers during its peak growing season. You can rent an aerator, hire a professional, or use a manual aerator or garden fork for smaller lawns.

Aerate when soil is moist but not waterlogged. This ensures the plugs pull cleanly without clogging. Leave the soil plugs on the lawn to break down naturally.

Aeration combined with deep watering dramatically improves recovery because water and nutrients now reach the roots more effectively.

2. Overseed bare patches and thin areas

Heat stress creates bare spots where grass dies back completely. Fall is ideal for overseeding because cooler temperatures and increased rainfall help new seeds germinate.

Start by lightly raking dead material out of bare patches. This removes the thatch layer and allows seeds to contact the soil.

Scatter new grass seed over thinned areas and keep the soil consistently moist until the grass establishes. The key here is consistency. Uneven watering disrupts germination, so check daily and water lightly if rain doesn't fall.

New grass filling in before winter means you'll have a fuller lawn by spring instead of waiting until next summer to see improvement.

3. Water deeply rather than frequently

A struggling lawn needs deep watering, not daily sprinkles. Short, frequent waterings encourage shallow roots that can't access moisture deep in the soil when drought returns

Deep watering forces roots to grow deeper, creating a stronger root system that supports the grass through stress.

Water once every few days, applying enough to soak six inches down. Early morning or late evening watering minimizes evaporation and reduces scorching risk.

You'll know you're watering deeply enough when moisture penetrates the soil without pooling on the surface.

4. Apply lawn fertilizer as growth resumes

Heat and drought deplete soil nutrients, leaving your grass unable to grow vigorously. Once temperatures cool and the grass begins active growth again, a quality slow-release fertilizer supports recovery.

Timing matters. Apply fertilizer only when the soil is moist and the grass is actively growing, not when conditions are still dry.

Follow application instructions carefully, as over-fertilizing can damage recovering grass. Slow-release formulas feed gradually, supporting consistent growth without shocking stressed plants.

The fertilizer replenishes nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that heat stress depletes. Combined with improved watering and aeration, fertilizer helps your lawn shift from survival mode to genuine recovery and growth.

5. Strengthen roots with liquid seaweed

Liquid seaweed conditions soil while encouraging deeper root growth and improving nutrient uptake. Regular applications help grass recover faster from heat stress and build resilience against future droughts.

Seaweed provides trace minerals alongside growth-promoting compounds that strengthen the grass from the root level up.

Apply it every three to four weeks during the growing season. Healthier roots mean the grass retains moisture better, stays greener during dry periods, and recovers more quickly when conditions improve.

While this isn't a quick fix, this recovery plan builds long-term lawn health — laying the quiet groundwork now so come next spring, you'll have a lush lawn instead of staring at a sea of straw.

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The promise of many smart home devices is that they can free your time up to do other things, but how often is that reflected in reality?

We could finally be there with robot lawnmowers. I’ve been using the Segway Navimow i215 in my yard for the last few months, and a few exceptions aside, I haven’t thought about mowing my lawn for a long time. But is the Navimow i215 the best robot lawnmower for your yard? It depends on a lot of factors, such as the size and slope of your grass, but there are a few universal takeaways I found from testing this, as well as several other robot lawnmowers.

Read on to see how well the Navimow i215 performed for me, and if I’d pick it over other models.

Picking the right size

When I first talked with Segway about reviewing one of its lawnmowers, I initially requested the Navimow X4, the company’s top-end device that costs $2,500, can tackle just about any terrain, and has independent wheels that allow it to make zero-degree turns. It’s a truly impressive mower — and it proved to be too much for my yard.

The main reason I requested the X4 is that my front yard, despite being very small, is on a bit of a hill that in the past proved too daunting for some robot lawnmowers. However, after running the X4 for a while, I noticed that it would repeatedly skip over certain sections. Confused, I talked with Segway, which said that because my lawn was so small — we’re talking less than 500 square feet — it had trouble taking care of it properly.

Segway then sent me the Navimow i215, which costs about $1,000 less, and is more suited for mid-size to smaller yards.

Price and availability

The i215 is the newest of Segway’s mid-tier robot lawnmowers. It came on the market in 2026, costs $1,599, can cover up to 0.37 acres, and uses both LiDAR and vision systems to map and navigate your yard.

It’s a bit more sophisticated than the i210 AWD ($1,299, 0.25 acres) and the i206 AWD ($999, 0.15 acres), both of which have obstacle avoidance, but lack LiDAR.

An easy — but not trouble-free —setup

Like most new robot lawnmowers, the Navimow i215 has everything it needs built right into the mower, so there’s no need to install a tower or a boundary wire around your property. I simply set up the base station where the robot docks to recharge, and then followed the instructions in the Navimow app to connect it to my home Wi-Fi network.

As part of the setup process, you can send the mower out to automatically map your yard, or you can perform this task manually by driving the bot around the perimeter.

Even after creating the map, it still required some tweaking, as the i215 kept nose diving off one corner of my lawn; I would have hoped its Lidar would have recognized the dropoff. However, all I had to do was go into the app and re-draw the map to shave off a few inches. After those adjustments, I rarely encountered an issue with it going astray.

Obstacle avoidance and mowing performance

The Navimow did a good job at avoiding objects. It successfully navigated around a small soccer ball, as well as a plastic child’s toy, but ran right over an orange ball the size of a baseball; perhaps it felt it was small enough that it wouldn’t be a problem.

However, unlike the Sunseeker X3, which I tested last year, Segway’s mower and app doesn’t mark on its map that it encountered an obstruction. The only indication I got was that the app showed a spot of the lawn that was unmowed.

After scanning your yard, Segway’s mower will also plot the ideal direction to mow your lawn most efficiently. In my case, it was a diagonal line along the long axis. Taking this route also meant it was able to avoid driving directly up the steepest part of my lawn. I still worried about it creating divots in my lawn; more than once, I saw it spin its wheels in place on some of the steeper sections, which tore up the grass a bit.

Within the Segway Navimow app, you can adjust the direction of the mowing, but unlike most other robot lawnmowers we’ve tested, Segway’s app doesn’t let you mow patterns, such as a crosshatch or diamond. Some companies’ mowers will even let you mow shapes, like hearts. While I think that’s a little frivolous, I do wish Segway would offer a little something more in terms of letting you control how the mower cuts your grass.

Smart home and security features

Even the least expensive robot lawnmower will cost upwards of $500, so some sort of security feature is warranted, so that someone doesn’t simply walk away with your mower as it’s making its rounds.

Segway built two protections into the Navimow to keep would-be thieves from absconding with your stuff. Within the Segway app, you can set a geofence boundary around your property, so that if the bot is moved beyond a certain radius, it will sound an alarm. You can set it anywhere from a 33-foot to up to a 164-foot radius; obviously, if your yard is larger than that, you might want to disable this feature.

Should the alarm not be enough of a deterrent, the Navimow i215 is also equipped with Apple FindMy, so you can locate the mower if it goes missing.

Finally, the i215 also works with Alexa and Google Assistant, so you can use your smart speaker of choice to command the mower to start working, or connect it to your other smart home devices and routines.

Bottom line

I was initially skeptical that the Segway Navimow i215 would be able to negotiate my front yard, but the little machine defied my expectations. While it’s not quite as smart as I hoped — it drove itself right off one of my retaining walls — it ultimately performed well over the long run.

I also liked the i215’s security features, but there are still a couple of things I wish were included. For example, the Worx Landroid has an edge-mowing feature, and the Sunseeker S4 will show in the app any objects it encounters in your yard. And, both of those models — which cost less than the Navimow — also let you mow your yard in specific patterns.

So, while Segway has made a very capable robot lawnmower, there are still others that are a cut above.

With a hot summer and low rainfall, even the hardiest lawns have struggled to stay green. Right now, my own fried patch resembles more of a sandy beach than a luscious cascade of green.

Although I’m considering digging up some of my lawn and replacing it with a dry gravel garden, all is not lost. If you take this one action in August, you could be enjoying a green lawn in time for fall.

Don't give up — your lawn will survive

When I walk on my lawn right now, I feel sand between my toes and hear a crackle as the brittle blades snap. I’ve never known a year when my lawn has suffered so much.

However, by following this one lawncare step, you’ll be surprised how quickly your lawn can be transformed from an unattractive patch to a lush expanse of green.

But right now, you may also be questioning whether your brown, yellowing lawn will bounce back when it seems there’s no chance of survival. Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, says don’t give up hope. “Most brown lawns are in fact dormant, and haven’t completely died back yet.

“When moisture is low, grass focuses its energy on protecting its root system, the beating heart of the lawn, so this is why color drains from the visible sward above the soil.”

And he explains that the lawn will begin to flourish once it receives adequate hydration. However, because the soil is parched, intervention helps to ensure water reaches the roots. If not, water will pool on your lawn and won’t be absorbed into the soil.

That’s where this lawn hack comes in; it helps your lawn absorb the essentials to bring it back to full health

Start by aerating your lawn

So the one task you can do this month to help your lawn absorb moisture is to aerate your lawn, and all you need is a garden fork. During the drier months, your soil has become compacted and needs to be broken up to improve airflow, water absorption and nutrient access.

Inserting a garden fork or lawn aerator into your soil creates many small holes that act as channels, allowing water, oxygen and nutrients to reach the soil and strengthening the root system.

Aerating your lawn with a garden fork

If aerating your lawn manually with a garden fork, Luke Taylor and Marc Kerr, in their book ‘Lawns: An uncomplicated guide’, $15 at Amazon, recommend following these three steps:

1. Insert your garden fork roughly 6 inches deep into the soil.

2. Push forwards as you remove the fork from the soil. They explain that this will help make the holes slightly larger, create additional cracks for aeration, and allow you to remove the fork easily.

3. Continue this process, spacing the holes around 5-6 inches, until you cover the whole surface of your lawn.

In addition to a garden fork, you can also use a lawn aerator, designed specifically for the job.

Test your lawn for compaction: Try the screwdriver test

If you want to ensure your lawn is compacted before you insert a garden fork across it, Laura Bradbury, head of e-commerce at Vonhaus, suggests trying a hack using a screwdriver.

She says, “Push a long screwdriver gently into a few different sections of the lawn. If it goes into some areas easily but meets much more resistance in others, particularly where furniture, paddling pools or heavy footfall have been over summer, the soil may have become compacted.”

And Bradbury adds that the screwdriver test gives homeowners a quick way to compare different parts of the lawn before committing to a larger job.

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A week of brutal heat and your lawn turns brown. It looks fried. Looks dead. Your instinct is to do something: pull out the hose at sunset, grab fertilizer, lower the mower blade. These feel like solutions. They're not.

Most of that browning is dormancy, not death. Your grass is shutting down to survive the heat, which is exactly what it should do. The problem is that three specific mistakes can actually kill what dormancy doesn't. These mistakes are so common that most people don't realize they're doing them.

Here's what's going wrong and how to fix it before you accidentally kill what's still salvageable.

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Summer is the best time to get out into your garden and enjoy your outside space. It's also one of the hardest times to keep your lawn in top condition, battling with hot weather, dry soil, and all of that extra use.

While I've been using 3 drought-proofing steps to protect my lawn during heatwaves, I can't help but notice I'm still struggling with specific issues. And I know I'm not the only one.

So, it only felt right to put it to our readers and ask: "What is the biggest problem you have with your lawn?" Over 3,000 of you answered, and here's what came out on top. Even better, I've got tips on how to fix it.

The number one lawn problem, according to readers

There was one resounding answer that came from our poll, far outweighing other issues, and that's bare patches. With a massive 3,079 votes totalling 64% of our readers' answers, it's a patchy lawn that seems to be causing the most bother.

To give you an idea of just how dominant this issue is, the second issue was crabgrass that received 625 votes (13%) followed by dog wee stains at 451 votes (9%) and dandelions at 388 votes (8%).

And I completely agree, struggling with bare patches myself and trying desperately to make sure my grass looks even across my lawn.

Fortunately, there's plenty of solutions to try that we've covered across a range of how-to guides. I'll delve into some of the top tips below and hopefully next time we run a poll, bare patches won't be such a problem.

How to tackle bare patches

From 5-minute quick fixes to step-by-step guides, depending on how much time you've got on your hands, these are the top tips I recommend to try out on that patchy lawn.

1. Try overseeding

It might seem like all hope is lost when your grass suddenly turns into a bare, soil patch on your lawn, but you can reapply seed to help with regrowth. It's called overseeding and it's a method used to block out weeds, cover up bare turf, and ultimately create a lawn that is covered with even grass.

But, you may find that even when you've overseeded it, you're still experiencing patchiness. There's a few reasons for that, but nothing our next step can't try and solve.

2. Reseed if the first go didn't take

Sometimes one overseeding session isn't quite enough and that's a problem answered by Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf when we spoke with her about yellow patches on lawns: "You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth."

The answer for this? Reseed and focus on even distribution across your lawn, in case the way you're applying it by hand is too thinly spread.

3. Add a layer of topsoil

Additionally, to protect the seed, you can add a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. As Handley recommends: "This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate."

Consider it an extra layer of protection, prompting grass growth and hopefully leading to a less patchy lawn.

4. Try a good fertilizer

Finally, you might want to think about adding some fertilizer to your lawn. Sure, it's hard to know how often you should fertilize your lawn and when to do it, but as advice widely varies it's always a good idea to check the type of fertilizer you're using and what job you want it to do.

If you can nail down some good practice with fertilizer, as well as choosing one that's suitable for the job, you can tackle those patchy areas in no time at all. Or, so I'm trying to do myself.

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I must confess, I’ve been a bit late to the game when it comes to embracing robot lawnmowers for hands-free lawn maintenance. And given that I write about home and gardening trends for a living, this might come as a surprise.

But despite my loyalty to the power and reliability of my corded model, the constant hassle of untangling extension cords and getting to outdoor power points was starting to wear thin. Which is exactly what convinced me to finally let a robot lawn mower loose in my own yard.

Similar to robot vacuum cleaners, I thoroughly enjoyed the perks and convenience of just putting my feet up and letting a robot do all the work for me. Plus, it saved me the manual labor and the time-consuming nature of the chore.

However, there is a crucial detail I overlooked that I wished I had considered before using a robot mower. What’s more, this is a common issue that many people don’t factor in – and one of the top signs your yard may not be suitable for a robot lawn mower.

Here’s what happened when I first tried a robot lawnmower.

Check your robot mower is suitable for your lawn

One common assumption I had was that all robot lawnmowers would be ideal for every outdoor space. However, as it turns out, this is the one crucial detail I overlooked for my own uneven terrain.

Unlike standard flat yards, my lawn has a few bumps and features a noticeable dip toward the lower end.

I have to admit, I was very impressed with the precise trim and mapping performance given by my Terramow V1000 in my small-to-medium-sized yard.

In addition, the compact mower was easy to set up and connect via the app, with intuitive controls and settings.

Plus, for a novice in the world of robot mowers, these user-friendly features were a much-welcome bonus.

However, despite the razor-sharp trim, I noticed the robot lagged once it reached the more challenging slopes of my lawn and a paved path — in which case it would often get a little stuck (despite having rear-wheel drive).

While it wasn’t a dealbreaker helping it along past that point, it did make me realize that not all yards are suitable for standard domestic robot lawnmowers.

Typically, robot lawnmowers can work on all types of (mostly-flat) lawns; however, you’ll likely need a more powerful model to tackle uneven or steep inclines with ease.

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” said Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna.

“Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

In fact, my experience with the Terramow V1000 is a stark contrast to when I put the remote-operated Mowrator S1 4WD Lawnmower through its paces a couple of years ago. Although it’s not fully automated, I found it to be a mighty powerhouse for my yard. It handled my tricky hills and steep gradients effortlessly, delivering truly impressive results.

In any case, I still preferred the hands-free convenience of the Terramow any day. Plus, I liked how it was user-friendly, had smart features, and a compact size — making it easier to store away.

So, whether you’re looking to upgrade your mower or simply want your weekends to be stress-free, be sure to evaluate your lawn’s dimensions and terrain before choosing a mower with enough muscle to navigate your lawn’s challenges.

For more top tips, check out buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider before you get one.

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I don’t mind mowing my backyard; it’s small, level, and is more or less a rectangle.

My front yard is another story. Despite it being half the size, it’s on a hill — about 20 degrees — and in order to get to it, I have to carry a lawnmower up several steps. So it’s been with great relish that I’ve been able to test robot lawnmowers for the past few years. It’s certainly saved me time and aggravation.

But it hasn’t all been easy. There have been plenty of issues I’ve encountered during the setup process and while using robot lawnmowers that had me wondering if I should just go back to mowing my yard myself.

Having tested several models over the past five years ranging from $1,000 to more than $2,500 (and edited reviews of several others), there’s a few pieces of advice I’ve picked up that should help you make a more informed decision when buying and using your first robot lawnmower.

Know your yard

There’s no point in getting a robot lawnmower that’s overbuilt for your yard, and in fact, may work to your detriment — and your wallet.

Find out the square footage of your yard, and then find a robot lawnmower that fits those dimensions. If you get a mega-sized lawnmower but have a postage stamp for a yard, the larger mower may actually have trouble mapping everything properly.

In fact, I was testing the $2,500 Segway Navimow X4 — which to be sure is really cool — but ironically, it couldn't effectively get to all of my small yard. Segway replaced it with the $1,399 Navimow i215 LiDAR, which may not look like something out of a science fiction movie, but costs half as much, and is actually able to mow my whole lawn. (Stay tuned for my full review.)

Yes, there are some truly impressive mega-robots, like the Yarbo, but there’s no sense spending upwards of $2,000 for a lawnmower when something half the price will do.

At the same time, you’ll also want to take into account if your yard has any steep dropoffs or angles, and look for a robot lawnmower that can handle those inclines. There’s been a couple of lawnmowers that worked perfectly well in my backyard, but struggled on the incline in the front, digging divots into the ground.

Boundary wires are so three years ago

When robot lawnmowers first arrived, you had to install a boundary wire around your yard; the lawnmower would then randomly bounce around inside the border until everything was mowed, not unlike the original robot vacuums. It was a real pain, especially when the mower would accidentally run over the wire and slice it in two.

The newest models do away with all that. Using a combination of GPS, Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) and cameras, robot lawnmowers can now accurately map your yard without that time-consuming step. Now, the bot can autonomously map your lawn, or you can just drive it around the edges.

So, look for a robot lawnmower that uses RTK; it’ll cost a little more than the older boundary wire models, but this is definitely worth the added convenience. Plus, the newer models also have more advanced features like obstacle avoidance.

They’re not set-and-forget

As smart as robot lawnmowers have become, they’re still not all that intelligent. Even if they manage to do a good job of autonomously mapping your yard, you’ll still most likely have to tweak the maps they create to ensure they’re mowing everything properly, and not running over your prized petunias.

Case in point: My front yard is bisected by a walkway with a few landings and stairs, as well as a few dropoffs on the sides. Despite me manually mapping the yard each time, almost every robot lawnmower I’ve tested will manage to take a tumble down a step or two, or manage to get itself stuck on a ledge. Fortunately, all of the robot lawnmowing apps I’ve used let you tweak the boundaries fairly easily.

You’re still going to have to do some work around the edges

Sorry to say, but a robot lawnmower isn’t going to magically eliminate all your yardwork. While they’re getting pretty good at edging, I still have to go and use my string trimmer to touch up areas around the borders, as well as the strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street.

And, unless you get the aforementioned Yarbo and all its attachments, you’ll still need to rake the leaves from your yard in the fall (or you could opt to leave them in place).

Your neighbors are going to stare

While robot lawnmowers are fairly common in Europe, they’re still a novelty in the U.S., so every time my mower is out doing its rounds, passers-by almost always stop to watch it mowing. It becomes a bit of a conversation piece if I happen to be outside at the time, so it’s a good way to chat with your neighbors and get to know them better.

Do you own a robot lawnmower? If so, how long have you had it, and what sort of things have you experienced? Let me know in the comments.

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Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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As the weather warms up, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy — particularly when preparing for outdoor entertaining.

And while you might already have a lawn care routine that you stick to, you might be forgetting to do this one crucial step before cutting your grass. In fact, it’s a common mistake we often make when mowing our lawn, but if left unchecked, it can cause long-term damage to our mower’s blades.

What’s more, this could ruin your lush, healthy grass just as the summer begins. So if you want to ensure a greener lawn, don’t skip this one lawn mower check.

Make sure the grass is dry before cutting

While this might not seem necessary in warmer months, you should always check that your grass is dry before getting the mower out. Be it from morning dew or a summer shower, excess moisture can make all the difference to your mower blades.

This is due to the fact that damp blades of grass tend to stick or clump together, which can significantly blunt your mower's cutting edge over time. Consequently, this makes the blades work less effectively and could cause them to overheat, as they’ll need to work harder to get through the clumps — and potentially make your mower break down.

In addition, moist cuttings can build up beneath the mower deck and across your blades, which results in rusted metal components and a decline in your machine’s efficiency.

Of course, keeping your lawn mower in top condition is vital, so ensure your mower blades are sharp and avoid mowing with blunt equipment.

There are many blade sharpening tools available online; however, a metal file also works well — always follow the safety guidelines for your mower. Check out our guide on how to sharpen lawn mower blades for more info.

Uneven and lackluster grass

To make matters worse, mowing when the grass is moist can trigger various other problems that can affect your turf's health. The first is torn or unevenly cut grass, as the sheer weight of moisture forces individual grass stalks to droop, preventing them from remaining upright and resulting in an uneven, ragged finish across your turf.

Another issue is the breeding of fungus and other diseases, as they thrive in the damp conditions of these rough cuts — causing damage to soil.

It’s worth noting that while cutting lightly damp grass on a single occasion probably won’t lead to long-term problems, it’s still best to avoid it as much as possible.

Just be sure to avoid these 7 lawnmower mistakes you’re probably making right now.

When is the best time to mow your lawn?

Gardening experts suggest that the ideal time to mow is mid-morning (by 10 am), as your lawn has had sufficient time to dry. In addition, allowing your turf enough time to dry and mowing by this time ensures your lawn has the full day to heal from the cut.

Alternatively, if you can’t get round to mid-morning, late afternoon (between 4-6 pm) is the second-best time of day to mow your lawn. This is when the sun is not at its peak, and there is no risk of the heat scorching the lawn. Also, mowing at this hour additionally provides your grass with ample time to heal before nightfall.

For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Mowing my yard is one chore I never look forward to. Well, at least not as I get older. I used to love mowing the grass for the workout, but now it does nothing but trigger my allergies.

I've experimented with robot lawnmowers in the past. I've paid $175 a month — even during the winter, when they weren't in use — to rent a couple of Husqvarna mowers from a landscaping company. Eventually, I realized it wasn't a wise investment, so I canceled the contract. Later on, I tested the EcoFlow Blade for a while, but its wheels loved to dig holes in my yard with each and every turn, so eventually I stopped using it.

For the last month, I've been testing the Sunseeker S4, a robot lawnmower that leverages AI and LiDAR for mapping and navigation. I don't want to spoil the review, but I'm smitten.

Sunseeker S4 review: Price and availability

The Sunseeker S4 is currently available directly from Sunseeker with a regular price of $1,799 but a sale price of $1,299, but Amazon has it on sale right now for just $984. That includes the robot lawnmower, a docking station, extra blades, and a cleaning brush for the LiDAR sensor.

If you're reading this and the S4 has returned to its normal price, I'd wait for a sale.

Sunseeker S4 review: Design

The S4 doesn't break the mold when it comes to the robot lawnmower's overall design. It's compact, measuring 25.12 x 16.61 x 10.79 inches, and weighs 26 pounds. In the event the robot gets stuck somewhere and you need to lift it, there's a handle built into the rear of the housing that makes it a breeze to pick up.

On the front of the S4 is a monocular camera with a 360-degree LiDAR sensor on top. It's tucked into a bumper that slightly moves in when the lawnmower presses against a hard object, The sensor is easy to spot due to its black bubble-like housing.

Behind the LiDAR bubble is a flip-up cover that hides an LCD display and a few buttons you can use to interact with the S4 — although I rarely had a need to do so — and a manual dial you use to adjust the cutting height, which ranges from 1.6 to 3.2 inches. There's a giant red STOP button that you can press to immediately stop the S4 in case of an emergency.

Underneath the stop button is the handle I previously mentioned. The S4 is rear-wheel driven with two trolley wheels that spin and move wherever the two rear wheels push the robot. Sunseeker's specs put the max gradient at 22 degrees — a stat that didn't apply to my mostly flat backyard. However, there's a slight slope to my front yard (I've never measured it), but the S4 didn't have any issues with slipping, even if the grass was wet.

When you flip the S4 over, you'll see six blades attached to a disc. It always amazes me when I test a robot lawnmower how small the blades are; they often look like razor blades you'd find in a box cutter.

Sunseeker S4 review: Installation and mapping

Setting up the S4 was a breeze. You'll first need to decide where you want to — and can — install the charging station. It measures 30 x 19 x 14.5 inches and can be placed at the edge of your yard, or even outside of it if you'd rather. You'll need a weatherproof electrical outlet nearby.

I already had a section of my yard that'd been killed by previous robot lawnmower docks, so it was an easy choice for me. I swapped out the old broken station and replaced it with the Sunseeker S4 in about 10 minutes. After sliding the S4 into the charging station, I created an account in the Sunseeker app, connected the S4 to my account and waited for the battery to fully charge.

The app walked me through the initial mapping of my yard, which required me to drive the S4 to a starting point along the edge of my grass. At that point, I could either continue to use my phone as a Bluetooth remote control and manually map my yard, or I could let the S4 automatically roam around the edge and create a map on its own. I stood by, ready to take over if needed, but the S4 slowly and judiciously creeped along the edge of my grass.

The S4 is the first robot lawnmower I've used that maps on its own, and I was impressed. There were a few areas I had to go back and manually drive the S4 over, adding to the existing map, but it was a much easier and streamlined process than I'd experienced with the EcoFlow Blade.

After mapping my backyard, I created a second zone, consisting of my front yard and let the S4 work its magic with mapping. There are a couple of trees in that yard, along with more corners and angled sections — unlike my backyard that has three flat edges. The S4 needed a little more help with correcting the front yard's map, but overall the process was simple.

So simple, in fact, I deleted both maps in the app and went through the process multiple times with similar results. You can save maps in the Sunseeker app and easily switch between them, which is also a nice touch.

My favorite part of mapping my yard, however, wasn't how easy it was, but instead it was the 3D map the LiDAR sensor created that I could view in the app.

It's one thing to read that a device has LiDAR and assume it'll help with object identification, navigation and mapping — but it's another to actually see what the S4 sees, down to the batting cage in the back corner of my yard along with the power and cable lines that run above my yard.

As far as object detection and avoidance goes, the S4 routinely routed itself around objects as big as my English Bulldog who walks in front of it daily, or as small as a Wiffle ball my kids leave in the yard. I didn’t expect it to see the latter at all and run it over instead, but once it gets within a few inches, it stops, slightly turns and goes around it.

Sunseeker S4 review: Performance

With two zones created, I used the Sunseeker app to create a path between them. I then set a schedule for Zone 1, the backyard, to be mowed Monday-Friday between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. There's a gate between my yards, so I couldn't set a schedule for Zone 2 as I have to manually open and close the gate when the robot needs to get through.

According to the Sunseeker app, Zone 1 is 3,184.96 square feet and Zone 2 is 2,690 square feet, for a total of 5,874.96 square feet between the two.

The initial pass over my backyard with grass — which was longer than I'd like to admit — required a couple of trips to the charging station. The S4 ran for around 90 minutes each time, and then took a couple of hours to charge before heading back out to complete the task.

The same can be said about mowing the front yard, which I asked it to do the following day. That process was tedious, only because I had to monitor the battery status in the app to let the S4 into the backyard so it could charge, and then let it back out once the battery was full. In total, it was two trips back and forth.

However, after that initial cut, the S4's cut time has dropped significantly. The backyard does require a return trip to charge for a little over an hour, then it heads back out for 20 minutes to finish the job. In total, it takes just under 2 hours of cutting time to mow the backyard — or just over 3 hours if you include charging time.

If I'm paying attention, I can catch it right after it finishes the backyard and manually redirect it to the front yard. From there, it tackles the rest of the lawn and returns to the dock on its own, completely finished in roughly an hour and forty-five minutes.

As for how good of a job it does at cutting grass, for the first few sessions it'd leave little rows of grass between each pass with the default cutting direction setting. However, after switching the cutting direction to traceless, which means each time the S4 cuts it changes direction, those missed rows have disappeared. If you’d prefer to have patterns cut in your yard, you can set the S4 to create items like a heart, a trophy, a star, or a soccer ball. It can also cut a pattern to represent numbers.

My lone complaint about the cutting performance of the S4 can be said about any of the robot lawnmowers I've owned — none of them can cut the edge of the yard. For the S4, it has a cutting width of 7 inches, but there's 4.3 inches between the edge of the lawnmower's housing and the blades. So, no matter how close you get the map to the edge of your grass, there's always going to be a small section of grass it just can't cut.

It's a fair trade, I guess. Instead of having to bribe my son to mow the yard maybe once every two weeks, my yards are mowed multiple times a week.

Sunseeker S4 review: Storage & maintenance

The S4's charging station serves as the main storage area for the robot when not in use. Along with charging it, there's an overhang to protect the top of the S4, complete with a brush to keep the LiDAR bubble clean. If you want more protection, Sunseeker sells a Sunproof Garage that extends the protection to the entire lawnmower.

During the winter months — and for that matter if you're expecting a lot of rain — I'd recommend removing the S4 from the dock and moving it indoors. During my testing, I had a rainstorm come through that dumped two inches of rain on us in an hour. It took me a couple of days to notice the S4 hadn't run on its set schedule, and upon further inspection I realized it wasn't even turning on.

I turned it upside down, removed the battery and let it dry out for a day, after which it came back to life. I have no idea how high the water got in my yard, but I do know there was standing water most of the night.

It's a good reminder that even though the S4 has an IPX6 waterproof rating, it's still susceptible to the elements.

As for routine maintenance on the S4, the Sunseeker app has a device maintenance menu that tracks when you should replace the blades (after 120 hours of use) and when you should wash the cutting disc (after 60 hours of use).

Otherwise, keeping the front camera and the LiDAR bubble clean are the only things you need to worry about.

Sunseeker S4 review: Verdict

This was my first time using a Sunseeker robot lawnmower, and it did not disappoint. My yard hasn't consistently looked this good in years. The Sunseeker S4 was easy to set up, forgoing the need to install a dedicated GPS antenna like the EcoFlow Blade, or bury a guide wire like previous Husqvarna mowers I've used.

Battery life is good enough for its 0.25-acre limit, and after fine-tuning the settings you'll get a clean cut every time.

Well, except for the edges. Make sure to keep a trimmer handy.

For years — nay, decades — I've spent most weekends standing on my lawn, yanking on my mower's pull cord like I was trying to wrestle a chainsaw into submission. It was exhausting. Eventually, I just snapped — I could no longer abide the oil leaks, the spluttering, the stopping for no reason and refusing to start up again. It seriously felt like the machine was personally offended by doing the one thing that justifies its existence. I'm talking years and years of constant maintenance for very little reward.

So, yeah. I ditched it. Hasta la vista, you piece of junk.

I decided to go electric, and now I'm kicking myself for waiting this long. The very first time I held down the start button and pulled the bail bar, there was just a quiet whirr. No fumes. No failed starts. It simply worked. Within seconds, I was gliding across the lawn with very little effort (largely due to my model being self-propelled). And when I was done, I could go back inside without smelling like a servo forecourt.

Mowing feels like less of a chore

To me, the change feels less like a simple upgrade and more like breaking free from a toxic relationship. Sure, my front and back yards haven't changed, but the chore itself? Suddenly, it’s completely effortless.

The biggest change was no longer dealing with oil or petrol. The Ryobi model I bought came with a 36V 6.0Ah rechargeable lithium battery, and all I have to do is slot it into place and the lawn mower is ready to go.

On a full charge, that battery gives me about 35 minutes of mowing in Smart mode, though switching to Eco mode can stretch that time. There’s also a Power mode for tackling really dense or tall grass, but it drains the battery faster. Honestly, I haven’t come across any grass that Smart mode couldn’t handle with ease.

Swapping petrol power for batteries

I also have an extra 4.0Ah battery that came with the matching Ryobi line trimmer I bought at the same time, and it fits perfectly into the second battery slot on my mower, adding about 25 more minutes of runtime. Even if you don’t go for an electric line trimmer or edger (or both, like my model with its switchable heads), I still strongly suggest having a second battery.

The only prep needed is making sure the batteries are fully charged before mowing, and that's honestly the only downside I've come across in the switch to a battery-powered mower. Each battery takes roughly twice the time to charge as it does to use, which works out to around 70 minutes for the 6.0Ah battery and 50 minutes for the 4.0Ah battery.

Personally, I’d much prefer that to having to stop several times during a mowing session to refill my previous mower’s four-stroke engine with petrol, or worse, stopping to mix precise amounts of oil into a separate petrol can before fueling up the old two-stroke mower I had prior.

Managing battery usage

Of course, long charging times is only really an issue if you have particularly large front and back yards. Mine are fairly spacious, and I’ve noticed I can finish mowing the larger front yard — being on a corner, I have quite a bit of street-facing grass along the side of the house — with at least one light still showing on my 6.0Ah battery’s four-light indicator. The same goes for my medium-sized backyard when using the 4.0Ah battery.

The key is to start charging your depleted battery right after switching to a fully charged one if you plan to keep mowing. By the time the second battery runs out, the first should have a decent charge again. There's also the option of purchasing additional batteries, though I don't think that will be necessary for the average Aussie household.

Still, these runtimes are all specific to my mower and its batteries. There are many battery-powered mowers available, some of which may even be better suited to your lawn's layout and size. Here are some of the top models available on Amazon right now, listed by price. Simply click through to any model to read more about its capabilities.

Top electric mowers on Amazon

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Gaining a perfect lawn isn’t just about regular mowing, weeding, aerating and plenty more besides; it’s about the finishing touches that give it the edge.

While you spend time tackling dandelions and crabgrass, removing thatch and fertilizing your lawn, there’s one task that often gets forgotten. The secret to a beautiful lawn is neat edges, with a clean line defining the lawn and its borders.

This is where the 3-inch lawncare rule comes to play. What's more, as garden season begins to pick up and our lawns move out of dormancy, May is the ideal month to get your lawn in shape.

Defining the 3-inch lawn edging rule

This method involves creating a clean, crisp vertical edge with a sharp drop that separates your grass from the soil in your borders. In simple terms, it involves making a narrow 3-inch trench between the two areas.

The vertical cut is deep enough to prevent grass from creeping over into your borders, as the 3-inch cut should sever most grass roots. It also creates a small gap between the turf and the soil that casts a shadow, further defining the space.

While many gardeners, myself included, turn to a manual edging tool or an electric lawn edger, the 3-inch rule requires a sharp spade, such as Fiskars Long-Handled Digging Shovel, $29 at Home Depot. It’s this simple tool that can help define the boundary, and give the perfect finish to your lush lawn.

How to achieve the 3-inch edge

1. Mark out a clear line to follow on the edge of your lawn. You could use a rope or chalk.

2. Take a sharp spade and cut 3 inches into your turf, keeping the blade straight for a vertical cut.

3. Continue working along the border to form a neat line that separates the lawn from your beds.

4. Now work back along your vertical line and position your spade at a slight angle back towards your lawn. Remove a narrow edge of soil from beneath the turf. This technique should prevent the grass from growing back into the bed.

5. Tidy up any loose soil and grass trimmings, then stand back and enjoy your hard work.

How to maintain a neat lawn edge

After each mow, go along the edge of your lawn with some long-handled edging shears, such as Fiskars Long Handle Swivel Grass Shears, $34 at Home Depot. Use the shears to remove the edges that your lawnmower didn’t reach. Keep a check on the neatness of the vertical edge and trench, and recut the edge when needed.

You might also be interested in how to transform your backyard for less this summer — 5 garden tools I recommend under $25.

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Robot lawnmowers are not only becoming less expensive, but they’re also getting a lot simpler to use. The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is a prime example. This model can be found for around $1,000, and was one of the easiest models I’ve yet installed on my lawn.

While you have to temper some expectations in terms of its performance — it’s rated to just 1/4 acre — it does its job well. And, unlike most other robot lawnmowers, you can use the Landroid’s battery with other Worx power tools. I used the Worx Landroid on my yard for several weeks to see how it would perform. Here’s what I liked and didn’t like about this robot lawnmower.

Price and availability

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud first went on sale in February 2026. Worx makes three versions: the WR310, which can cover up to 1/4 acre, is $1,199; the WR320, which can handle up to 1/2 an acre is $1,799, and the WR340, good for a full acre, is $2,299.

However, I’ve seen all models for sale; for example, the WR310 was available for $999 at the time of this writing.

What I liked

Easy setup

The Worx Landroid Vision Cloud is part of the latest generation of robot lawnmowers, and was the easiest to set up of all the models I tested. No more installing boundary wires, or even a separate tower for the lawnmower to get a GPS signal. Now, everything is contained in the lawnmower itself, so all you need to do is set up its charging station. It’s almost as easy as setting up one of the best robot vacuums.

After that (and some firmware updates), I sent the Landroid out into my yard to start mowing. It effortlessly mapped my yard without any intervention on my behalf. The company also provides a small patterned temporary border, which you can set up around flower beds so that the robot knows to avoid them during its initial scan.

It’s a strong mower

Worx says that the model I tested can tackle slopes of up to 17º (a 30% grade). I first tried the Landroid on my front yard, which has about a 20- to 30º slope, and while it did ok in the middle of the lawn, it struggled around the periphery, where it had trouble turning and then getting back up the yard. Its large wheels would just spin in place, digging holes in the dirt. (Worx does make a 4WD mower, which can handle grades of up to 40%.

However, it had no trouble in my much flatter back yard, and easily drove over divots, where the Sunseeker X3 Plus had trouble when I tested it last year. I also created a small ramp, and raised it up to 17º, and the Worx was able to drive up with no problems.

You can also program the Landroid to mow in several patterns, such as diagonal lines, a checkerboard, or a diamond; I also liked that, after mowing the bulk of the yard, it then went and trimmed all of the edges. I still had to go and tidy up things with a string trimmer, but it was nice to see the mower pay attention to this detail.

Good object recognition

The Landroid’s vision system did an above-average job at navigating obstacles, though it wasn’t entirely consistent. For example, it would deftly maneuver around tennis balls, jump ropes, and other kids' toys left in the yard, but then would drive over my dog's bone without a thought. It also made a nasty grating sound as the mower’s blades whacked it when doing so. It’s a good thing the blades are easy to replace.

Unlike some other robot lawnmowers I tested, such as the Sunseeker X3 Plus I tested last year, the Worx app doesn’t tell you if there’s a particular object in your yard; it just shows up on the map as an unmowed area. It would be nice to be able to see just what it avoided.

What I didn’t like

Polarizing Design

I'll admit, this is a bit of a nitpick, but the Vision Cloud’s design can best be described as utilitarian. It’s very angular, with all sorts of bumps and protrusions for the cutting deck, RTK system, cameras, and battery compartment. The mower’s display is functional — it looks like an old, oversized digital alarm clock, which you control using membrane-style buttons below. It gets the job done, but it’s not going to win any beauty contests.

Apart from aesthetics, all of the Landroid’s nooks and crannies are havens for errant bits of pollen, grass clippings, and more — especially around the battery compartment. I had to frequently brush it clear of debris. Fortunately, the compartment's rim is raised, and has a gasket to seal it from the elements.

Limited battery life

One of the unique things about the Landroid is that it has a removable battery, which you can use in other Worx products. If you’re going to buy cordless power tools, it’s best to stick to a single system. So, when you store the mower for the winter, you can still make use of its battery in the Worx power snow shovel, for instance.

However, the capacity of the 4Ah battery is pretty small. After mowing my 0.02-acre yard (about 870 square feet), its battery life had dropped to 36%. So, if you have a larger lawn, it may take the Landroid a few passes to cover everything.

Bottom Line

If you have a smallish lawn and don’t want to be hassled with mowing it, the Worx Landroid Vision Cloud 2WD is definitely worth a look, especially if you have other Worx battery-powered products. The mower was easy to set up, did a pretty good job at avoiding objects in the yard, and its battery can be used in other Worx power tools.

We haven’t tested them yet, but in the same price bracket as the Worx is the Mammotion Yuka mini and the Segway Navimow i2 AWD Robotic Lawn Mower. Both offer a similar setup process and can cover the same amount of area, but can theoretically handle steeper grades of 45% (24°).

Robot lawnmowers still aren’t cheap compared to traditional mowers — you can get a battery-powered push mower for a third of the price — but they are becoming more affordable, and more capable than ever.

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Worried you need to spend big dollars for a luscious lawn to ensure you are not ‘lawn shamed’ by your neighbors? Think again.

The reality is you can have a luscious lawn on a budget without spending out on expensive tools and lawn feed. Here, I delve into 7 ways you can have a stunning lawn for less, but be prepared to put in some work.

1. Weed it

One element that lets all lawns down is a patch full of weeds. But they really don’t need to ruin your lawn. Whether you struggle with dandelions or crabgrass. The ideal time to capture them is when they are young. This will help prevent seeds from spreading, and the problem of pulling up part of your lawn with the weed.

Dandelions have deep tap roots, which means you’re going to have to delve a bit deeper than some other weeds to remove them, but a simple tool should help you out. If you don’t already have one lurking in your garden shed, I recommend buying a simple dandelion weeder, like Linatikou’s Weed Puller Tool, $8 at Amazon.

However, you could also opt for a hori hori knife, which can be used elsewhere in the garden. Yang’s Hori Hori Garden Knife is $8 at Amazon, with a 50% discount.

Don't wait any longer, though, to get weeding. Spring is the ideal time to dig out those weeds before they flower and set seed.

2. Promote thick and strong growth

Another way to prevent weeds, such as dandelions and crabgrass, is to keep your lawn a little longer than usual. Keeping your lawn about 2 to 3 inches in length will help keep the soil cool, reduce the risk of seed germination, and weed growth.

When grass is on the short side, more sunlight reaches the soil, creating the perfect conditions for weed germination.

Apart from managing weeds, experts advise following the one-third rule when mowing. Rather than mowing your lawn too short, remove only one-third of its height. This prevents the grass from becoming stressed and encourages denser, more luscious growth.

3. Fill in bare patches

If you’ve removed any weeds or spotted other bare patches, it’s simple to fill in the gaps. I recommend using this quick 5-minute fix for a patch-free lawn.

Take a tool, such as a garden trowel or a hori hori knife, and score the soil to disturb the surface. Give it a light watering and then scatter some grass seeds on top, before giving it a light covering with top soil. If you’re anything like me, you should be able to find everything you need in your garden shed.

4. Leave your grass clippings

To add valuable nutrients to your lawn, don’t clear up your grass clippings. Instead of raking them up, leave them to break down and release nutrients — such as phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium — back into the soil. This simple hack will save you from buying lawn feeds.

Rather than leaving the grass clippings where they land, it’s best to rake them over to avoid leaving clumps of clippings that may smother your lawn. And if they are wet, dry them out before spreading them over your lawn. While they are in place, they’ll also help to prevent weeds from emerging.

Apart from prompting strong growth, grass clippings are composed of 85% water, and once they break down, they release moisture back into the soil. Although your lawn will still benefit from water, especially when the weather is dry, it will reduce the amount of time needed for watering.

5. Remove obstructions

Your lawn may not be growing to its full potential if it is overshadowed by shrubs and trees. If your grass doesn’t get enough sunlight, it won’t be able to photosynthesize as effectively, resulting in weaker growth.

I notice this common problem around the edges of my lawn, where trees and shrubs overhang and take away precious sunlight.

The easiest way to solve these issues is to either cut back branches with a pair of pruning shears to allow sunlight to shine through or dig up the underperforming area of grass and underplant it with shade-loving plants instead.

6. Edge your lawn

It’s surprising how a few minutes can make all the difference to your lawn. I find going round the edges with a lawn edging tool is one of the quickest ways to smarten up its overall look.If you don’t already own an edging tool, ask your friendly neighbor if you can borrow one, or search online for free garden tools. You could try Craigslist’s free section or FreeCycle. Other places to search include Buy Nothing groups on Facebook, community gardens and tool-lending programs, such as a local library or municipal office.

7. Make a homemade fertilizer

Save your spent coffee grounds and create your own homemade organic lawn fertilizer. Coffee grounds contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which help promote healthy grass growth. It acts as a slow-release fertilizer, providing sustained nutrients for your lawn.

You can add coffee grounds to your lawn at any point during the growing season. It’s best to let them dry out before scattering them, and them spread them about one cup to one square yard. Try to cover your lawn as evenly as possible to avoid the grinds landing in clumps — using a rake should help.

If you have a compost pile, you can also add spent coffee grinds into the mix, and apply this directly as a top dressing to your lawn.

There are plenty of other ways that coffee grounds can be used in you yard, including helping hydrangeas develop deep blue blooms.

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With summer fast approaching, there's nothing more satisfying than having a lush, green lawn to enjoy, especially if you're hosting backyard gatherings.

And while you might have taken steps to prepare your lawn during the winter months, the cold snap can affect the growth of your grass. This is because turfgrass usually goes into a dormant state in order to conserve energy and survive winter temperatures. This essential process effectively halts growth until the weather becomes warmer.

But if you want to ensure a healthy, greener lawn just in time for summer, you'll need to do this one critical gardening task in May. In fact, doing this can make all the difference to the overall appearance of your lawn. So what is this key job?

Don't forget to scarify your lawn in May

Essentially, scarification involves tearing up the top layer of soil to remove dead grass, heavy thatch, moss, and other debris that have built up on your lawn. This is similar to the process of dethatching, that aims to remove the thatch layer that builds up between the soil and the lower parts of the grass .

The key difference here is that scarifying is a more intense process that gets further deep into the ground, cutting grooves into the soil to remove moss and other build-up. This also allows adequate aeration to the soil.

And while a thin layer of thatch benefits grass, too much creates a barrier that prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots, effectively suffocating the lawn.

What’s more, this can cause your lawn to become spongy and prone to disease, ultimately ruining your lush, healthy grass.

Think of scarification as a deep cleansing process for your lawn. This allows the grass to "breathe" again, helping the spread of healthy development by allowing fresh air, water, and essential nutrients to enter the soil and be better absorbed.

May is a crucial time for your lawn, particularly if you have warm-season grasses.

After the dormant winter, the grass enters its growth phase, making it a critical time for the root zone to receive oxygen, water, and vital nutrients.

In addition, May is when the soil in your yard will have warmed enough to encourage active root development — making this the perfect opportunity to tend to your lawn and help it thrive. What’s more, if your lawn has been compacted with dead grass, thatch or other debris, it will be unable to absorb vital nutrients — preventing it from reaching its full potential.

How to scarify your lawn

To do this crucial job, you’ll need to have the right tools. Be sure to have the best gardening gloves, a lawn mower, a leaf rake, a scarifier (for larger lawns), or a springbok rake for smaller yards.

First, gardening experts advise watering your lawn a few days before scarifying. This is because watering the lawn prevents the soil from drying out, which can cause the turf to tear during the process. Next, you’ll need to lower your mower's cutting height to cut your grass short, aiming for a length of approximately 2-3cm. This allows for the blades to reach the debris properly without obstruction.

Use a scarifying tool or a springbok rake, depending on your lawn's size, to start removing heavy moss and thatch. Move the tool steadily across the lawn, allowing the blades or tines to lift the debris. For best results, it’s recommended to work in one direction, but if the thatch is particularly heavy, repeat the process at a slight angle.

Once you’ve finished, you’ll need to immediately collect the excess debris with a sturdy leaf rake. Try not to leave it on the lawn for too long, as this will block light, air, and nutrients — defeating the purpose.

Don’t forget to seed and feed the grass afterwards to give it a better chance to thrive. Spread grass seed over patches and apply a seasonal fertilizer to give it that healthy boost for the summer.

So if you want lush grass this season, you’d better get out and do this crucial job before it’s too late. For more top tips on getting a greener lawn, check out these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's and 7 budget hacks for a stunning green lawn.

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Dandelions spread fast once they establish in your lawn. A single plant produces a white seed head containing hundreds of seeds that disperse with the slightest breeze, scattering across your yard and into neighbors' lawns. Within weeks, one dandelion becomes dozens.

The key to controlling dandelions is removing them before those seed heads form and spread. Once dandelions go to seed, they're extremely difficult to manage because their deep taproots regenerate even when you pull the visible plant. A small piece of root left in the soil grows back into a full plant.

Timing matters more than method when dealing with dandelions. Here are three natural ways to eliminate dandelions and how to keep them from coming back.

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Between all the yardwork I do — planting, raking, mowing, weeding, pruning, repairing planter boxes — my work gloves take a real beating. Normally, I go through a pair a year, because I typically buy the cheapest pair I can find at the checkout line at the hardware store. Sadly, I don’t take advice from our own guide on the best gardening gloves!

For the past few weeks, I’ve been testing out a new pair of gloves from Cross Point Gear, which promise greater durability, but also offer a lot of flexibility while also being waterproof and breathable. While they’re not cheap, they have held up very well.

Price and design

Cross Point Gear sent me a pair of its Sport Gloves; the company has two other lines, the Pro Wool and Boneshaker.

The Sport Gloves sell for $54, and come in five colors (black, gray, safety orange, neon green, and jungle) and five sizes (small, medium, large, XL and XXL). I went with the safety orange because far too often, I’ve taken off a pair of gloves in my yard and forgot where I left them, so the bright color makes them easier to spot.

The gloves are made of three layers: The exterior, which is 95% nylon, is water-resistant; a middle layer made of waterproof-breathable Artex, and an inner liner that’s 79% acrylic and 15% polyester.

They’re comfortable

The Sport Gloves fit me, well, like a glove. I opted for a large pair, and they fit snugly, but not too tightly around my hands and fingers. The palms of the gloves have black grippy nubs, which made it easier to hold on to tools and other objects, even when they were wet.

One of the toughest tasks I used them for was building a raised garden bed in an area of my yard that had been overgrown with English Ivy. Not only did the gloves give me a good grip when ripping out all the roots, but also offered me the dexterity I needed when holding my rake and shovel. They also let me comfortably hold a screw between my index finger and thumb as I drove it into some wood siding.

They’ve kept my hands warm and dry

In March, the weather where I live has ranged from unseasonably warm — temperatures in the 80s — to frigidly cold. While I’ve avoided working outdoors in freezing temperatures, I have been out when it’s been in the low- to mid-40s, so having a warm pair of work gloves has been essential. The gloves kept my hands at a comfortable temperature and, even on hotter days, my hands didn’t feel too sweaty, either.

I don’t have to take them off to use my phone

While I wouldn’t want to type out full emails while wearing the gloves, I was able to send short text messages, open apps, and use my iPhone pretty easily. So, I didn’t have to remove them from my hands to answer calls or take photos with my phone.

Fabric can get caught on sharp objects

The weave of the exterior of the glove is a bit stretchy — you can see the inner layer of the glove if you spread your thumb and index finger apart — so you have to be a bit careful when handling sharper objects. I learned this the hard way when I tried to unspool a roll of chicken wire. A prong got caught on one of the gloves, and pulled out a bit of thread.

If you’re planning to do stuff like this, or use the gloves to play with your cats, I might suggest something a little more heavy-duty, or ones with a smoother exterior, like leather.

Bottom line

At $54 a pair, the CrossPoint Waterproof Knit Gloves are a bit of an investment, but they seem to be holding up pretty well so far. You do have to be careful around pointy things, but otherwise, they could be a good addition to your outdoor toolkit.

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Spring is officially here and that means it's time to head out into your yard to breathe life back into your lawn. Having suffered through the cold, winter months, your neglected grass is ready to enjoy the sunshine, as long as you help it. Begin now and you've got a head start on the rest of the summer.

But, you need to make sure you're doing the right things. And if you've found yourself here, you're also looking to avoid doing the wrong things. Fortunately, I've asked gardening experts to reveal exactly what they'd advise not doing to your lawn in March and what you should be prioritizing instead.

So, here's how to streamline your lawn care regime, including the tasks you need to avoid and the ones you should be incorporating into your routine. Follow this expert advice and you'll be reaping the rewards of a luscious lawn in no time.

3 things you should never do to your lawn

1. Mow too early

The sun is shining and you can hear your neighbors starting up their mowers, but wait. Bennett Barrier, CEO of DFW Turf Solutions, says it's not quite the right time to mow: "Your grass is still emerging from its dormancy and the root system has not stabilized. Cutting now scalps the blades and puts stress on roots that are just beginning to push again."

"Wait until soil temperatures are 45-55 degrees for cool-season grasses and 60-65 degrees for warm season grasses, when the grass blades reach 4 inches tall," explains Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love.

If you want to make sure your grass has a chance to grow, wait a little longer for the sunshine to work its magic before you grab that cobweb-riddled mower out of the shed.

2. Forget to scarify your lawn

Whilst you shouldn't be mowing quite yet, you don't want to neglect scarifying your lawn first. As gardening expert Bennett explains: "Thatch accumulates throughout the winter and if you do not pull it out, water and nutrients lie on top of the surface and never actually reach the soil. I've seen lawns that were fine from the street but were totally starved underneath."

Craig Elworthy, founder of natural lawn care subscription company Lawnbright, says you should be doing this instead: "Don't do a hard de-thatch, as it could damage the existing turf. Instead focus on gently getting the grass blades to stand up. This helps allow sunlight to reach the soil, which helps your lawn 'wake up' from dormancy and recover quickly from winter."

3. Forget to water it

Another knee jerk reaction when we finally see a bit of sunshine in spring is to get watering and, this time, Bennett says you're right to do so: "March is cool so it doesn't look necessary but the soil dries out faster than you'd think. Grass that goes without water now comes in thin and weak once temperatures climb."

Craig does advises though that you shouldn't start watering on a schedule in March: "We're still in the spring moisture season with rain and snowmelt. Watering now creates weak, shallow roots and can invite early fungal problems. Only start watering when the lawn is actively growing and you can start to see signs of drought stress – lingering footprints, or dry soil."

Top tips for lawn care in spring

While those are three things you shouldn't be doing to your lawn in March, there's also lawn care jobs you should be doing, according to the experts.

1. Test your soil pH

The pH balance of your lawn is a fragile ecosystem that dictates whether your lawn is ready to absorb nutrients and promote growth. If it's not at a certain level, your lawn won't grow as well as it could do.

For this, Bennett explains: "If your pH is below 6.0 or rises above 7.0, then your grass blocks nutrients no matter how much fertilizer you put down. Get a test kit from any garden center and if it reads low work lime in at about 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet."

2. Walk your yard

March and early spring is a great time to assess the damage of the winter months, and as Craig explains, it presents the perfect opportunity to "walk your yard". Fortunately, that's no hard task when the sun is finally beginning to shine, but it's a very important and early part of your spring lawn care.

Craig adds: "Look for any debris from the winter and get it off your lawn," which should also lead you perfectly onto our next top tip for March lawn care.

3. Tackle bare spots

Bare spots can appear on your lawn over the winter where grass has become damaged, thin, or died completely. For this, Bennett advises overseeding those thin patches that you find: "Rake the area lightly to give the top layer a bit of loosening, press seed into soil to direct contact and water daily until you see germination. That typically takes 7 to 14 days depending on your type of grass."

4. Apply pre-emergent weed control

Craig advises that in March, it's a little too soon to use fertilizer on your lawn. Instead, he advises that: "you will get benefits of suppressing weeds later in the summer by applying pre-emergent now."

For the best results, Bennett reveals that you should add the weed control before soil temps reach 55°F: "That's the exact point that crabgrass begins germinating. I use a soil thermometer to monitor it on a daily basis in early March. Miss that window and you're dealing with weeds instead of grass for the rest of the summer."

5. Aerate your lawn

Finally, Steve says you'll want to check if your lawn needs aerating: "Depending on the grass type, you may need to aerate every year or every 2-3 years, and this is an important task because it fights against soil compact and is key for keeping your grass healthy."

But, how can you tell if it needs aeration? Well, The Grass People reveals it could be used a lot all year round, it may show signs of drying out easily over summer and getting waterlogged in the wetter months, and you might also notice a build-up of moss over winter.

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Lawn care takes a rest while the cold, dark winter keeps us all indoors and using the best space heaters to try and stay warm and cozy. But now the evenings are getting lighter and the sun is (occasionally) appearing you're probably starting to look out at your lawn and contemplate that first mow of the year.

But as we start to get the yard tools out from the shed and prepare to set things right, it's crucial to be aware of common mistakes that can actually damage your lawn in the long run. These disasters tend to happen not with dramatic flourish, but through well-intentioned mistakes repeated over time. With spring beckoning, now's the perfect moment to reassess your routine practices that might be harming rather than helping your lawn.

The signs of a struggling lawn will often appear gradually — thinning patches, persistent weeds, or grass that never quite thrives despite your best efforts.

What makes these mistakes particularly troublesome is how reasonable they seem. Daily watering sounds caring, short grass looks tidy, and extra fertilizer seems generous. Yet these common practices can actually weaken your lawn's resilience and overall health.

Here are five yard care habits that could be doing more harm than good, plus what you can do instead. Make a note of these — print them out and stick them to your shed wall if it helps — and keep them in mind throughout the spring and summer months.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell if my soil is compacted and needs aeration?

Look for these signs: water pools on the surface rather than soaking in, grass thins despite proper care, the soil feels hard under foot, or you struggle to push a screwdriver into the ground. If your lawn exhibits these symptoms, aeration will likely help improve its health.

How do I know which type of grass I have in my lawn?

Look at blade width, color, growth pattern, and texture. Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass have medium-fine blades and deep green color, while warm-season grasses like Bermuda tend to have finer blades and lighter color.

Is it better to water my lawn in the morning or evening?

Morning watering (between 4-10 AM) is generally best. Early watering gives grass time to dry before evening, reducing disease risk, while avoiding the midday sun when much of the water would evaporate before reaching the roots. Evening watering can promote fungal growth if grass remains wet overnight.

And there we have it! You've now learned the 5 common lawn care mistakes that are killing your yard. While you're here, why not take a look at some of our other helpful gardening guides?

For a beautiful garden, check out 7 colorful flowers to plant in April for a vibrant summer garden and 9 perennial flowers to plant in April for blooms year after year. And if you're wanting to banish weeds forever, we've got you covered.

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Another product launch from CES 2026? You bet. This time, though, we're heading straight out into our backyards come fall as we've spotted a whisper-quiet leaf blower, new to the market for 2026.

The T1 Tone essentially ticks all of our leaf-blowing woes — it's cordless, charges fast, has an adjustable shoulder strap, and it works at a noise level of less than 52 dB. That, BTW, is similar to the hum your refrigerator makes while it's on and the door is closed. Impressive to say the least.

This new product launch will be (literal) music to the ears of those who hate the job of tidying the leaves in the fall — it means you can finally listen to that podcast on normal volume while doing this job. Even better? With an integrated light, leaf blowing knows no time of day — you needn't get yours done early on in the day, come winter.

Tell your neighbor to thank me later and keep reading for more news on when you can purchase this mind-blowing (in more ways than one) new garden gadget.

For a quiet clean

Blowing the leaves away from your backyard or driveway has got to be up there with the most boring household chores. It sits right behind waiting for paint to dry for the next coat, and cleaning the oven. With the release of T1's Tone Leaf Blower, though, you can now pop your headphones in instead of your ear muffs and listen to your playlist while doing the chore you dislike the most.

Fitted with a rechargeable 5.0 Ah battery, it will last for an average of 50 minutes of use in Eco mode. It takes only 90 minutes to charge to 100%.

Yes, there are five modes to choose from, all differing in noise, too. Plus, it only requires one hand for use, so the other can relax (or wave to a neighbor). Other than the low noise, its second-best feature has to be its built-in nightlight, which means you can use it even in the dark.

What it lacks in noise, it makes up for in design — choose from green or gold and store it in your shed year-round, as it can withstand temperatures from 0°F to 140°F. Weight-wise, it's light enough to hold with just one hand, and even if you're a left-handed user, it's convenient.

Without ever compromising on power, this leaf blower can offer impressive air velocity speeds of 150mph. Yes, you read that right. Its blowing force can hit 25 Newtons, too. For reference, this is usually what you'd expect from a professional leaf blower.

Simply enough, it ticks all our boxes, and the price tag? $599.99, including the battery and shoulder strap.

What else to use it for?

We all know that leaf blowers go beyond just clearing stray leaves from your drive in fall, right? This one, thanks to its 50-minute battery life, low noise, and one-handed operation, can be used for clearing small amounts of snow from pathways in the winter. You can use it for blasting debris from your patio furniture in spring, ready for a deep clean, and in summer, for drying your car faster.

You could even take it over to family members' homes to give their driveways a quick clean, should they be unable to do it themselves. No hassle required fiddling around with cords. And you won't upset their neighbors, either. Especially handy if you live in an apartment.

Availability

You can already pre-order this leaf blower directly via T1. All that's required is a $100 deposit, and the remaining $499.99 will be charged to your account on August 26, 2026.

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Are robot lawnmowers about to have their day in the sun? At CES 2026, I’m seeing more models than ever — and more importantly, they look to be easier than ever to set up in your yard. Just a couple of years ago, you had to run a boundary wire all around your yard; last year, you only had to install up a GPS tower.

However, this year, we’re seeing new robot lawnmowers that do away with that as well; thanks to LiDar, combined with ever more sophisticated AI and vision systems, getting it up and running should be no more difficult than with a robot vacuum. And, when they're not mowing, some of these models can even act as sentries, patrolling your yard.

Aside from their tech, a lot of the lawnmowers — at least the top-end models — are all starting to adopt a similar design, one that looks kind of like a Formula One car, while lower-priced models have tended to retain a more bulbous shape.

Here are some of the more interesting robot vacuums that launched at CES.

Segway X4

Segway is launching five new robot lawnmowers (including one designed for golf courses, and another that starts at $999) but its flagship X4 really stands out for its performance. This four-wheel drive model has two front-wheel steering motors, which gives it zero-turn capabilities, so it’s more maneuverable than before, and it can climb up slopes of up to 40 degrees. A Traction Control System also helps to make sure that it doesn’t slip on wet grass.

The X4 also has a dual cutting deck with 12 blades in total that covers 17 inches, and has onboard network RTK, so you don’t need to set up a separate base station; the X4 can connect directly to satellites to navigate your yard, and has a 360-degree RGB vision system to detect and avoid objects. The X4 is also IPX6-rated waterproof and includes Apple “find my” support, a rain sensor, and smart home integration for Google Home, Amazon Alexa and Home Assistant.

It’s a beast of a bot, though, weighing 63 pounds and measuring 33.5 x 24.0 x 13.8 inches. The X4 is available in two models: the X430 ($2,499) for yards up to 1 acre and the X450 ($2,999) for yards up to 1.5 acres.

Roborock X1 LiDar

Roborock is expanding from inside the home to outdoors with several robot lawnmowers, including the flagship Rockmow X1 LiDar, which is designed for yards with lots of obstacles. It has 360-degree 3D LiDar as well as VSLAM technology, which captures up to 200,000 data points per second, and can avoid objects like garden hoses and toys.

In addition, the X1 does not require a base station, which should make setup a lot easier. It has four-wheel drive, and can climb slopes of up to 38 degrees, and ride over obstacles up to 3.1 inches high. Underneath are six cutting blades that can be adjusted from 1.5 to 3.5 inches high, and the X1 can handle up to half and acre per day. Additionally, the robot has geofencing and will emit a siren if it’s lifted or moved outside of your yard. It will be available in the U.S. in 2026, though pricing has not been announced.

Yarbo M Series

Yarbo is releasing a smaller version of its modular robot lawnmower, which should be better suited for those with smaller yards and pocketbooks. Like its current Y Series model, the M Series will be available with a series of attachments that can turn it from a lawnmower to a snow plow, leaf collector, or edge trimmer. The company announced that consumers will be able to select two mower modules, a plow blade (the Y Series has a snowblower attachment), a leaf collector, a trimmer, and a smart assistant module.

Like the Y Series, the M Series is a tracked vehicle, which distinguishes it from most other robot lawnmowers that have three or four individual wheels. It will be able to climb slopes of up to 35 degrees, and can tow up to 220 pounds. The Yarbo M Series will launch on Kickstarter, and be available later this year.

Mammotion LUBA 3 AWD

Mammotion is also launching several new robot lawnmowers, headlined by the Luba 3 AWD, which also uses 360-degree LiDar and AI vision with dual cameras to navigate your yard and detect not just obstacles, but potential dangers like edges.

Similar to Segway, Roborock, and others, the LUBA 3 AWD has NetRTK built in, so you don’t need to install a base station when setting it up. This all-wheel drive model can also climb grades of up to 38 degrees, and has dual cutting disks with a 15.8-inch wide cutting width. It has a 15Ah battery, and can mow up to 1.75 acres per day or 7,000 square feet per hour. We also like that Mammotion offers free 4G connectivity for three years, which is helpful if you’re worried that someone might take your robot mower. The LUBA 3 AWD is available to pre-order with starting at €2299/£2099//$2399 in the EU, UK and North America.

Dreame A3 AWD

Like Roborock, Dreame is another robot vacuum brand that’s also expanding to the outdoors. It too, has 360-degree 3D LiDar for navigating your yard, with dual-camera AI vision to detect and avoid objects. It uses all-wheel drive to be able to climb hills up to 38.7 degrees and go over curbs as high as 2.2 inches. It also has dual 15.7-inch cutting blades that can be adjusted from 1.1 to 3.9 inches. When it’s not mowing your lawn, you can also use the A3 to patrol, and use its cameras to keep on the lookout for people or pets.

Lymow One Plus

The Lymow One Plus shares a lot in common with these other robotic lawn mowers, and just like them, it features a rugged tank-like design that’s equipped to handle challenging conditions with its all-terrain tracked treads for stability on slopes and gravel. But what makes it really unique is that it does more than just cut grass on its own; it can also handle fallen leaves and other yard debris — effectively acting as a blower.

This is achieved through its Cyclone Airflow System that supposedly lifts grass blades for an even cut, while a single discharge port helps to prevent clogs and keeps sidewalks clean. It’s plenty powerful, too, backed by reinforced SK5 steel mulching blades to cut up leaves with ease. And since it features RTK-VSLAM technology, it can detect common yard objects and can navigate without any boundary wires.

Pre-orders will be available starting in February for $2,999, with shipments beginning in March 2026.

Mova LiDAX Ultra Series

Another robotic lawn mower brand that should be on your radar is Mova, which announced its LiDAX Ultra Series at CES 2026. They share the same set of features, including 360-degree high-precision LiDAR that works in conjunction with an AI-enhanced 1080p HDR camera, to detect obstacles in its path up to 230 feet away.

These bots are also really easy to set up, offering the same quick setup that doesn’t require an RTK antenna or any boundary wires. Both models have the gear to tackle challenging lawns and terrains, like a specialized UltraTrim 1.0 system, that allows it to edge trim lawns by extending its lower disc to get closer to boundaries and edges. Their rugged designs are complete with off-road wheels that allow it to climb slopes up to 45-degrees, while overcoming small pits.

One of the cooler features of the LiDAX Ultra Series is that it acts much like a sentry on your property through its TrueGuard Security feature. It’s like having a security system on wheels because these bots auto-patrol during non-cutting hours, while also alerting you to any potential threats. They’re actually priced modestly, with the LiDAX Ultra 1000 costing $1,299 and covering up to 0.25 acres. Meanwhile, the LiDAX Ultra 2000 can cover up to 0.5 acres and will cost $1,799.

Sunseeker S4

The Sunseeker S4 may be a bit more modest-looking than some of the other models on this list, but it too is equipped with 360-degree 3D LiDar and AI-powered cameras, so that you can simply drop it on your lawn and let it go.

It has a smallish cutting deck of 7 inches, but its cutting height can be adjusted from 0.8 inches to 2.4 inches. It can cover up to 0.25 acres, and its rear-wheel drive can handle grades of up to 22 degrees (42% slopes). It also can detect edges, and in the app, you can create up to 100 separate mowing zones.

The Sunseeker S4 will cost $1,299 and will be available in the second quarter of this year.

You might also be interested in: Don't make a costly mistake: 7 signs your yard isn’t suitable for a robot lawnmower.

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Money can buy a lot. We just wrapped up Black Friday and Cyber Monday, when a lot of money was spent on tons of stuff.

But there's one thing money can't buy you, and that's time. You can be as rich as you want, but you only have so much time here. However, there's a loophole of sorts — you can buy products that save you time, creating more time to do the things you enjoy.

For my money, one of the best products I've ever used to free up time is a robot lawn mower. I have almost an acre of land to mow, and it's all fairly lumpy. The grass grows fast, too, so I spend a couple of hours mowing it every 5 or 6 days.

Since getting the Ecovacs Goat A3000 robot lawn mower, my time spent doing yard work has decreased dramatically. Outside of occasionally helping it get unstuck, it handled my large, lumpy yard with ease, which saved me countless hours throughout the mowing season.

Why I love the Ecovacs Goat A3000

So I'm going to start by saying the Ecovacs Goat A3000 isn't perfect. It, like all robot lawn mowers, is still what you might call emerging technology. It still gets stuck sometimes, and the blades break more than I'd like (a cheap fix).

But what it does well is so great that I can put those issues aside and gush over how much time the product has saved me.

Once you make it through the initial setup, which sees you follow the robot around the perimeter of your yard so it can learn the edges, you can have it get to work.

I admit I watched it for most of the process the first time, since I've never let a robot cut my lawn before, but after the first one, I just turned it on from my phone and only paid attention if I got an alert that it got stuck somewhere.

The actual mowing job was nearly perfect every time. You can adjust the cut height from 1.2" to 3.6", giving you the flexibility to create the yard you want. You can even set it to change directions every week, giving you those crossover lines we all love.

It would occasionally struggle with the bumps in my yard, mistaking them for tall grass, but if I set it to enhanced mode (designed for longer grass), this problem was mitigated. If your yard is flat, you'll probably have an even better time.

What's the price of time?

So while I said you can't buy time, living with a robot lawn mower has shown me that you can, kind of. Saving time doing tedious tasks in favor of doing fun ones is as close as you can get to buying more time.

And how much does that time cost? It's not cheap. At full price, Ecovacs charges $2,999.99 for the Goat A3000. But that gets you LiDAR, 45-minute fast charging and a ton of other features. There are cheaper robot lawn mowers on the market for those with smaller yards, but if you have a big one, you're going to have to shell out some cash.

If you have a big yard and hate spending half of your weekends mowing it, I really can't recommend a robot lawn mower enough. It doesn't have to be this robot lawn mower (though it is the only one I have first-hand experience with), but the feeling of knowing your lawn is being taken care of with minimal effort is a good one.

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