There’s nothing quite like picking fresh, homegrown vegetables straight from the vine and bringing them directly to your dining table. Plus, it’s the ultimate way to elevate those crisp, summer salads!

But whether you’re learning how to grow tomatoes from seeds or cultivating tomatoes in pots, you’ll inevitably face one frustrating hurdle — garden pests.

In fact, keeping your plants safe from hungry intruders such as squirrels, birds, or even deer is often the biggest obstacle to achieving that perfect, juicy harvest this season.

And while there are plenty of natural pest repellents or companion plants to help deter pests, there is one unlikely item found in your bathroom that can do just the trick.

So why are gardeners putting a bar of ‘special’ soap by their tomato plants?

Hang a bar of soap near tomato plants

It seems like a simple bar of soap can do so much more than just clean your skin or leave you smelling fresh.

Interestingly, its strong fragrance acts as a powerful deterrent for garden pests. However, it’s not just any standard store-bought brand that will work; you’ll need to use Irish Spring Moisture Blast Deodorant Bar Soap.

According to a research study conducted by the University of Nebraska in 1991, using “bars of fragrant soap will keep deer from crops at critical times.”

This makes it an ideal solution to hang by your tomato crops, acting as a barrier to ensure they’re not devoured or ruined by all types of yard intruders.

Perhaps the only caveat is that once the fragrance starts to wear off, they’ll soon be back. So, it’s best to only use this easy hack alongside other methods to ensure your garden remains a pest-free zone.

How to use soap by tomato plants (and what not to do)

There are a couple of ways you can use soap near your tomato plants. The first is to drill a small hole through the soap, thread some string, and hang it from stakes or a plant trellis. For best results, leave the packaging on before hanging, and experts suggest that a single bar is a sufficient scent barrier for any tomato plants within a 3-foot area.

Another option is to place the bar inside a small, fine-mesh pouch before hanging it near your crops instead. Once the soap fragrance wears off, you can simply replace it with a fresh bar.

Bear in mind that if soap is used incorrectly, it may harm your plants. Since this may contain sodium hydroxide, or contemporary lye, it can scorch foliage and harm plant tissues. So be sure that no soap residue drips onto your tomato plants or soil.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

Summer is here and the ideal time to get outdoors and prioritize our yard and lawn maintenance. To make light work of our tasks, it’s easy to get lured into buying expensive gardening gadgets and professional-grade supplies in hopes of making yard work a breeze (I’ve been guilty of that).

However, seasoned pros warn that many of these items are actually a waste of money and offer little real benefit.

So if you’re looking to slash your gardening budget, I asked the experts to reveal the most common yard expenses to avoid — and what you can do to save your cash.

1. Buying fertilizer (without doing a soil test first)

While fertilizer is an essential buy for nurturing plants or achieving a vibrant lawn, homeowners frequently dump cash into bags of fertilizer without first checking their soil's condition. This means that you could be wasting money on fertilizer that won’t benefit your garden.

“One of the biggest things I see that homeowners waste money on is fertilizing a lawn without doing a soil test first,” states Gene Caballero, co-founder of GreenPal.

“Many people apply products that their lawn doesn't actually need, and that wastes money and harms the turf. A simple soil test doesn't cost very much and will tell you exactly which nutrients your lawn is missing and let you know which one to buy.”

You can purchase a soil meter to check the soil pH balance and condition before buying, or you can simply use homemade fertilizer such as mulch.

“One of my favorite money-saving hacks is to mulch your lawn clippings instead of bagging them. The lawn clippings return nutrients to the soil, reduce fertilizer needs, and will help keep the lawn healthier throughout the season.”

For more top tips, here’s how to reuse your lawn clippings around your yard.

2. Cheap plastic gardening tools

Another common money-waster is investing in plastic gardening tools that we think will help us get the job done quickly. From seed-starting trays to cheap soil meters, these can often be a waste of money.

While it may seem like a good idea at the time — or when it was on sale — these tend not to last long or easily get damaged.

“Plastic tools degrade faster than metal ones. As a result, they need to be replaced more often, costing you more money in the long run,” agrees Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert at Online Turf.

“Cheap plastic seed starting trays can be very flimsy, breaking after as little as one or two seasons, but they are also bad for the environment," Zaber says. "Instead, you can use DIY methods, such as toilet rolls or eggshells, to create your own pots, buy better quality, reusable trays, or invest in biodegradable alternatives.”

It’s always worth spending money on tools that you’ll actually use often, and buy high-quality, durable tools that will go the distance.

I’ve often made the mistake of buying cheap gardening tools that would either do a poor job, break easily, or just end up collecting dust at the back of my kit.

What’s more, before you press ‘buy’ on that cheap online deal, always check out the specs or reviews. It may well be too good to be true.

“Homeowners should only buy the tools they will absolutely use, not ones that they think they might need,” adds Charlie Gilbert, Managing Director of Ransom Spares.

“Research the tools that you need to maintain your current garden, and avoid big toolset purchases. Take notice of how often you use the tools you start out with and what they cost you.

Some homeowners might realize that yard upkeep is too taxing or time-consuming and reach out to professional services, who will have their own tools.”

3. Low-quality garden furniture

I’m a sucker for Pinterest, and love looking for inspiration to spruce up my garden with different furniture and decor styles.

And while it’s possible to upgrade your backyard on a budget, avoid buying low-quality garden furniture, because it’s on trend right now.

“Outdoor furniture is expensive, and quality matters most when purchasing it,” states Gilbert. “Low-quality furniture will fade, rust, or crack more quickly than most people think. Those who live in very sunny, humid, or rainy climates will have to replace their furniture more often if they do not buy a weather-durable set.”

Another great money-saving tip is to consider buying used garden items, tools or furniture — but obviously check they are in good condition first.

“Garden furniture sets are not often something people concern themselves with the most when moving to a new house,” agrees Gilbert.

“Furniture can be cumbersome and difficult to move if you have a small vehicle, so check your local online listings and yard sales. Tools can also be purchased secondhand; just check their condition before buying.

“Word of mouth goes a long way as well if you live in a smaller neighborhood. You never know who is trying to get rid of what, so talk to your neighbors and let them know what you are looking for.”

So the next time you visit a thrift store or local market, it might be worth looking out for pre-loved garden furniture that you could rehome — and save a buck.

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• 7 composting tips everyone needs to know
• Homeowners warned as rats may be chewing through yard wires this summer — expert tips to keep them out
• 7 surprising household items to help your plants grow 

It’s often unnerving when you spot a rat scurrying across your property — especially during these summer months, when you want to enjoy the outdoors. Not only are these pests on the hunt for food and shelter, but they may also be causing significant damage to your garden appliances and power cables.

According to an expert, rat activity peaks during warmer months, as rats gnaw to keep their teeth worn down. Since their teeth never stop growing, rats need to constantly chew on hard materials to prevent them from overgrowing — making our outdoor power cables an easy target.

“Rats seem to like chewing on electrical wires, which can be a real nuisance,” states Adam Wilkins, Managing Director of LightingLegends.

“If they gnaw hard enough, they can actually cause some real damage to garden appliances, and you’ll have to replace the wiring or, in some cases, the whole appliance.”

The good news is that you can keep these pests from invading your outdoor space by implementing these expert-approved top tips.

Here are three simple things you can do in your yard to keep rats out and save your yard's electrical appliances from damage.

1. Cover or repair entry points

The first thing is to inspect your yard for holes and gaps in fences, uncovered drain covers, or any other potential entry points that rats can use to enter your property.

"Repair holes in sheds and fences to prevent rats from accessing the garden,” advises Wilkins.

“Since rats often travel through drains, consider repairing any broken drain covers. You can also cover rat burrows with wire mesh to prevent it from reopening.”

Another top tip is to get rid of any yard clutter — including piles of lumber, garden waste, or even old tires. Such things may serve as a nesting site for rodents to hide and seek shelter. So always keep it tidy and well maintained.

Ultimately, the key is to ensure your outdoor environment is highly uninviting, making it difficult for rodents to easily enter your outdoor space.

Also, is your neighbor's cluttered yard attracting rodents to your home? I asked the experts what to do.

2. Remove any food sources

Secondly, remove any potential food sources that will entice rats to keep coming back (and feasting in your yard). Things like fallen fruit, standing water, or even dropped bird food can all attract rodents.

“Rats are usually on the lookout for suitable shelter with food so remove any fallen fruit, nuts or vegetables that they may find enticing,” adds Wilson.

Be sure to pick up any fruit that has dropped from your trees, tidy up scattered bird seed from the patio, and regularly drain any stagnant water or pet dishes to avoid attracting unwanted visitors.

3. Secure your compost bins

Composting is a great way to repurpose kitchen waste and put it back into your yard. However, our compost bins are also a magnet for rats since it provides everything that they need — food and shelter.

"If you have a compost bin be sure to turn the compost regularly and consider installing mesh underneath if it sits on soil,” advises Wilsons. “These bins are hotspots for rats because it provides them with food, warmth and shelter.”

One good solution is to invest in a tumbler compost bin, which is designed to make it easier to turn over. Typically, these feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to reach all parts.

Things to look out for

Of course, keep an eye out for your electrical equipment. And if you do spot a cable that has been chewed or damaged, be sure to turn off the power and always call in an electrician to repair it.

"Where possible, keep cables off the ground, check them regularly for signs of gnawing, move any electrical appliances indoors overnight and replace any damaged wiring rather than attempting to cover it up," adds Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket

"If you suspect a cable has been chewed, switch off the power and contact a qualified electrician to inspect it, rather than trying to fix it yourself."

You'll want to quickly eliminate the risk of structural damage or worse, electrical fires caused by chewed wires.

What's more, you'll want to enjoy your backyard in peace this summer.

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• Your peace lily won't survive winter if you don't change these 5 things
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Whether you’re growing your own tomatoes from seeds or in pots, nothing beats the taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes.

This is especially true when you can just pick straight from the vine and throw them into your tasty pasta dishes or summer salads.

But when you’re boiling your pasta, don’t be so quick to throw out your leftover water just yet.

I’ve just stumbled upon a surprising benefit from this common kitchen ‘leftover’ that might just help your tomato plants thrive. It’s a great way to provide a natural boost to your crop without the need for expensive fertilizers or the latest viral tomato-growing tips.

However, you’ll need to know the pros and cons first before putting it to good use in your yard. Here’s how pasta water can benefit your tomatoes (and the one drawback).

Why pasta water is good for tomato plants

Essentially, when you boil pasta, the process releases excess starch into the water. This creates a nutrient-rich liquid that can act as an effective fertilizer for your tomato plants and encourage soil microbes.

Plus, certain pasta varieties release essential minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron — which are all great for giving our plants a healthy boost and optimum growth.

However, this will only be effective with unsalted pasta water — or else the salt can dry out the plant or even kill it. What’s more, the salty water can lead to excess sodium in the soil, which will also affect growth.

How to water your tomato plants with pasta water

Simply drain your pasta water into a bowl, and leave it to cool. Once cooled, you can water the soil directly from the bowl or use a watering can or spray bottle to make the process a little easier.

Now you have your starch-rich, plant tonic — which is literally free.

One thing to remember

It is worth noting that there is one drawback. This starchy liquid may potentially attract unwanted pests or harmful bacteria to your garden.

To avoid the risk of mold in your soil or drawing insects, it’s recommended to use pasta water on plants sparingly.

Of course, it’s always best to use the right fertilizer for your tomato varieties, but there’s no harm in using homemade alternatives.

Plus, this is a cost-effective way to reuse your pasta water (until you get fed up of eating pasta dinners).

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
• Plus, 11 things to do when overwintering tomatoes

A sudden heatwave can turn even the healthiest lavender bush completely odorless overnight. When temperatures soar, the plant isn't dying. It is actively venting off its volatile oils to protect its foliage from intense thermal stress.

The natural instinct is to rush out and dump water on the soil at midday, but that only worsens root stress and delays scent production. Rebuilding those lost aromatic compounds requires working with the plant's natural biology rather than fighting it.

With a simple shift in your watering schedule and a deep hydration routine, you can help the plant cool down and start producing fresh scent again in just a few days.

Why high heat drains your plant's oil reserves

Before jumping into a fix, it helps to understand what is happening inside the plant. Lavender stores its fragrance within microscopic, pressurized sacs called glandular trichomes on the surface of its foliage. When temperatures surge, those volatile compounds, linalool specifically, begin to evaporate rapidly under direct sun exposure.

Rather than running an intentional cooling mechanism, the plant simply loses its aromatic oils to high heat faster than it can replace them, leaving it odorless by late afternoon.

Watering during peak afternoon heat creates a stagnant, warm environment around the root zone. This excess moisture suffocates the roots and increases the risk of rot, leaving the plant too stressed to recover and regenerate its oils overnight.

Shift to a deep pre-dawn soak

If your lavender is baking in the sun and has lost its scent, your first instinct is to grab the hose and spray it down. Don't. Midday overhead watering creates a hot, humid environment that suffocates the roots.

Instead, the trick lies in a precise 48-hour hydration window.

First, wait until the sun goes down and the soil cools. Deliver a slow, targeted drink directly to the base of the plant using an open hose on a gentle trickle. This lowers the soil temperature gradually and allows the dry roots to drink without being shocked by midday heat.

The next morning at daybreak, give the base one more deep, deliberate soak. By saturating the lower soil layers before the sun hits the foliage, you create a moisture reserve the roots can safely draw from all day.

By avoiding the midday trap, your lavender's root system stays healthy and stress-free. With its hydration fully restored, the plant stops fighting for survival and restarts oil synthesis, bringing that rich, classic fragrance back to the leaves within 48 hours.

Wait for the fragrance to return

Once your deep-watering routine is in place, give the plant 48 hours to rebuild its resin glands. Avoid the temptation to prune off dead-looking stems during a hot stretch, as fresh cuts force the plant to divert critical energy toward healing.

By day two of consistent early-morning hydration, monitor the foliage during the cooler evening hours. Gently brush your fingers against the stems — not crushing them, but creating light friction. You will find that as root stress subsides, those microscopic oil sacs refill, delivering that signature, intense lavender fragrance right back to your backyard.

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• Forget high-maintenance houseplants: A DIY terrarium is a gorgeous centerpiece that thrives on neglect
• Gardeners are ditching lavender for this tougher, long-blooming shrub — and it doesn’t go woody
• My tomato plants were dropping flowers — then I tried this 2-second pollination hack

Summer is the best time to get out into your garden and enjoy your outside space. It's also one of the hardest times to keep your lawn in top condition, battling with hot weather, dry soil, and all of that extra use.

While I've been using 3 drought-proofing steps to protect my lawn during heatwaves, I can't help but notice I'm still struggling with specific issues. And I know I'm not the only one.

So, it only felt right to put it to our readers and ask: "What is the biggest problem you have with your lawn?" Over 3,000 of you answered, and here's what came out on top. Even better, I've got tips on how to fix it.

The number one lawn problem, according to readers

There was one resounding answer that came from our poll, far outweighing other issues, and that's bare patches. With a massive 3,079 votes totalling 64% of our readers' answers, it's a patchy lawn that seems to be causing the most bother.

To give you an idea of just how dominant this issue is, the second issue was crabgrass that received 625 votes (13%) followed by dog wee stains at 451 votes (9%) and dandelions at 388 votes (8%).

And I completely agree, struggling with bare patches myself and trying desperately to make sure my grass looks even across my lawn.

Fortunately, there's plenty of solutions to try that we've covered across a range of how-to guides. I'll delve into some of the top tips below and hopefully next time we run a poll, bare patches won't be such a problem.

How to tackle bare patches

From 5-minute quick fixes to step-by-step guides, depending on how much time you've got on your hands, these are the top tips I recommend to try out on that patchy lawn.

1. Try overseeding

It might seem like all hope is lost when your grass suddenly turns into a bare, soil patch on your lawn, but you can reapply seed to help with regrowth. It's called overseeding and it's a method used to block out weeds, cover up bare turf, and ultimately create a lawn that is covered with even grass.

But, you may find that even when you've overseeded it, you're still experiencing patchiness. There's a few reasons for that, but nothing our next step can't try and solve.

2. Reseed if the first go didn't take

Sometimes one overseeding session isn't quite enough and that's a problem answered by Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf when we spoke with her about yellow patches on lawns: "You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth."

The answer for this? Reseed and focus on even distribution across your lawn, in case the way you're applying it by hand is too thinly spread.

3. Add a layer of topsoil

Additionally, to protect the seed, you can add a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. As Handley recommends: "This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate."

Consider it an extra layer of protection, prompting grass growth and hopefully leading to a less patchy lawn.

4. Try a good fertilizer

Finally, you might want to think about adding some fertilizer to your lawn. Sure, it's hard to know how often you should fertilize your lawn and when to do it, but as advice widely varies it's always a good idea to check the type of fertilizer you're using and what job you want it to do.

If you can nail down some good practice with fertilizer, as well as choosing one that's suitable for the job, you can tackle those patchy areas in no time at all. Or, so I'm trying to do myself.

More from Tom's Guide

• Stop spending a fortune on expensive lawn treatments: These 7 genius budget-friendly hacks will give you a stunning green yard using simple tricks
• 9 tips to revive dead grass and make your lawn green again
• How often should you mow the lawn? We asked the experts

Summer is here, and there’s nothing I enjoy more than hosting friends in the garden, whether you're firing up the grill or simply enjoying the sunshine.

Yet, it’s incredibly frustrating when pesky flies start buzzing around your outdoor dining table or swarming indoors in their search for something to eat.

While I’ve tried everything to get rid of flies — from fans and citronella candles to homemade vinegar traps, these only provide a temporary solution before they come back with a vengeance.

But an expert has shared a clever hack that can help to banish flies. Surprisingly, this involves a few household ingredients and costs almost nothing, as the solution is sitting right in your freezer tray — ice cubes (yes, really).

So before you reach out for those toxic fly sprays, try this ice cube hack that may prevent flies from ruining your backyard enjoyment.

So what exactly is the ice cube repellent hack?

Essentially, this method involves freezing aromatic, citrusy elements that naturally repel these insects directly into your ice cubes. The idea is that adding them to your drinks outside will release a fresh scent that repels flies and should keep them away from your outdoor dining area.

“Most people have a lemon, some mint or even a few cloves tucked away in the kitchen, so you can just throw them into an ice cube tray and give it a go,” states expert Glen Peskett from Saxton Blades Multi Tools. “The fresh smell can help make your garden table less appealing to flies when you're sitting outside."

"It's not going to completely stop flies from appearing, especially if there's food left uncovered nearby, but it can be a useful extra step when you're having drinks or eating outside."

How to make fly-repelling ice cubes

To test this yourself, begin by slicing some citrus fruit like lemon or lime, or gather some fresh mint.

Next, place these zesty pieces into your ice tray, fill with water, and let them freeze solid overnight. Alternatively, you can make this up in a glass before pouring into your tray.

Once ready, you can drop these cubes directly into your beverages or simply scatter them across your garden table to keep the area smelling fresh and fly-free.

“The trick works best when used around areas where flies are most likely to appear, such as outdoor dining tables, patios and seating areas”, adds Peskett.

Of course, aromatic ice cubes alone won’t be enough to keep them away all day, and Peskett recommends combining the ice cube hack with other simple habits that make gardens less attractive to flies.

Maintaining habits such as keeping food and sugary drinks covered when eating outside, wiping down tables after meals, and clearing away leftovers as soon as possible can help to prevent flies from being attracted to your yard.

"Flies are usually drawn in by food smells, so the biggest thing is removing what attracts them in the first place," Peskett explains. "Little tricks like scented ice cubes can be a handy addition, but keeping your outdoor space clean is what will make the biggest difference."

“It might not be a miracle cure, but for something that takes seconds to make and can double up as a refreshing addition to a summer drink, it's an easy hack worth trying before your next garden gathering.”

Alternatively, you could try placing potted lavender plants near outdoor dining areas, as the strong fragrance is repulsive to flies or sticky traps.

The ice cube hack might not be a miracle cure, but it will take seconds to make and is cost-effective.

So why not try these aromatic ice cubes before your next garden gathering — so those annoying flies don’t ruin your fun.

Let us know in the comments below if this hack really works (or not) for you.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to mosquito-proof yourself this summer
• How to keep flies away from your houseplants for good — try these 7 expert tips
• How to tell the difference between fruit flies and drain flies

I must confess, I’ve been a bit late to the game when it comes to embracing robot lawnmowers for hands-free lawn maintenance. And given that I write about home and gardening trends for a living, this might come as a surprise.

But despite my loyalty to the power and reliability of my corded model, the constant hassle of untangling extension cords and getting to outdoor power points was starting to wear thin. Which is exactly what convinced me to finally let a robot lawn mower loose in my own yard.

Similar to robot vacuum cleaners, I thoroughly enjoyed the perks and convenience of just putting my feet up and letting a robot do all the work for me. Plus, it saved me the manual labor and the time-consuming nature of the chore.

However, there is a crucial detail I overlooked that I wished I had considered before using a robot mower. What’s more, this is a common issue that many people don’t factor in – and one of the top signs your yard may not be suitable for a robot lawn mower.

Here’s what happened when I first tried a robot lawnmower.

Check your robot mower is suitable for your lawn

One common assumption I had was that all robot lawnmowers would be ideal for every outdoor space. However, as it turns out, this is the one crucial detail I overlooked for my own uneven terrain.

Unlike standard flat yards, my lawn has a few bumps and features a noticeable dip toward the lower end.

I have to admit, I was very impressed with the precise trim and mapping performance given by my Terramow V1000 in my small-to-medium-sized yard.

In addition, the compact mower was easy to set up and connect via the app, with intuitive controls and settings.

Plus, for a novice in the world of robot mowers, these user-friendly features were a much-welcome bonus.

However, despite the razor-sharp trim, I noticed the robot lagged once it reached the more challenging slopes of my lawn and a paved path — in which case it would often get a little stuck (despite having rear-wheel drive).

While it wasn’t a dealbreaker helping it along past that point, it did make me realize that not all yards are suitable for standard domestic robot lawnmowers.

Typically, robot lawnmowers can work on all types of (mostly-flat) lawns; however, you’ll likely need a more powerful model to tackle uneven or steep inclines with ease.

“Robotic mowers can work on a wide range of lawns, but not every yard is a perfect fit,” said Kevin Caleca, NA Robotic Product Manager at Husqvarna.

“Complex layouts with disconnected sections, stairs, or very narrow passages can require more planning or specialized setups.”

In fact, my experience with the Terramow V1000 is a stark contrast to when I put the remote-operated Mowrator S1 4WD Lawnmower through its paces a couple of years ago. Although it’s not fully automated, I found it to be a mighty powerhouse for my yard. It handled my tricky hills and steep gradients effortlessly, delivering truly impressive results.

In any case, I still preferred the hands-free convenience of the Terramow any day. Plus, I liked how it was user-friendly, had smart features, and a compact size — making it easier to store away.

So, whether you’re looking to upgrade your mower or simply want your weekends to be stress-free, be sure to evaluate your lawn’s dimensions and terrain before choosing a mower with enough muscle to navigate your lawn’s challenges.

For more top tips, check out buying a robot lawnmower? 5 things to consider before you get one.

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Summer is when jade plants either thrive or struggle. The intense heat, longer days, and seasonal changes stress plants differently than other times of year. If your jade is suddenly dropping leaves, the cause is likely tied to summer conditions.

Jade plants are resilient succulents that can live for decades, but they communicate distress through leaf drop. Once you identify what's wrong, the fix is usually simple.

Here's how to diagnose the problem and get your jade back to healthy growth before fall arrives.

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I've always found growing tomatoes tricky. Every year, I make a new attempt, but the results are inconsistent. One year, I'll get a few worthy of a salad, the next it'll be a total fail.

And as I sat out in my yard recently, I stared at this year's yield – tomato plants that had stopped growing entirely. So, I did what I love to do and headed online to social media to see if I could find an answer.

Fortunately, tomato growing hacks are never hard to find, from using this common kitchen scrap for zero-waste gardening to trying out an ingenious tomato-watering trick, but this time I was looking for something that would switch up my tomato growing game altogether.

Then, I found a TikTok that told me I've actually been doing it all wrong. It turns out we should all be planting our tomato plants horizontally. It might sound crazy, but it's actually a stroke of genius. Here's how it works.

How does it work?

I'm a sucker for TikTok creator, @creative_explained's videos and I'm not the only one. With over 7.5m followers, he's known for consistently sharing quick home and garden hacks with an enthusiasm that's infectious. I should know; I've been using his money-saving hack for giving my plants a boost this year, and I've been shocked by the results.

But it's this tomato planting hack that caught my attention this time. As he demonstrates, you take a tomato plant and strip all the leaves off the stalk, leaving just the top shoot with one leaf.

Then, you dig a trench in your garden bed. After exposing the roots of your tomato plant and breaking apart the soil at the base, lay the entire plant horizontally into the trench.

Bury the entire stalk with soil, leaving just the top shoot and leaf exposed. Raise just this part and hold it vertically with soil.

He explains: "What's going to happen now underneath the soil is that the tomato will grow roots all along its stem.

It'll start to grow new shoots. The stem pretty much transforms into an entire root system." Genius.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I fear I may have found this hack a little late for the tomato growing season, but with hot weather in my area, I figured I could still transplant outside with a totally new tomato plant to hand.

Planting it horizontally was simple enough, even if it did feel like a strange process. I've had success with @creative_explained's hacks before like using potato peel water in my soil, so I'm looking forward to seeing the results. In terms of process, it was easy to do, though I needed to find a space in my garden bed that was long enough to accommodate.

Fortunately, I recently dug up some old rhubarb that was suffering in the heat, so I had the space to try out this horizontal planting trick. Now, I just need to wait until fall to see the results, but it feels good to try out something entirely new for a change. Growing tomatoes is a tricky business, but this might well be the solution I've been desperately searching for.

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• This cheap garden hack will help your roses grow — and all you need is a few old tea bags
• Stop wasting money on tomato feed — here’s how I made my own free fertilizer
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If there is one gardening chore that always feels like a losing battle, it’s dealing with those pesky weeds.

Whether they’re taking over my lawn and paved patio or surfacing between the gravel in my front yard — they seem to be everywhere and completely ruin the look of my outdoor space.

And while I’ve tried everything from commercial weed killers to homemade natural hacks, experts all agree that nothing beats pulling the taproot up by hand or with the right weeding tool.

Although there are various specialty tools like Grampa’s Weeder to spare your back from the strain, you don’t always need to splash out on new gear. I’ve just stumbled across one clever alternative that handles the hard work for you, and it’s likely already sitting in your toolkit or among your leftover decorating supplies.

Here’s why your painter’s tool could be a game-changer in the backyard.

How to use a painters tool to remove weeds

It turns out that your painter’s scraper or 5-in-1 tool can do so much more than just remove wallpaper. Experts have suggested it as an effective tool for getting into awkward spots to tackle weeds, especially in the tiniest of cracks.

Simply use the pointed end of this tool to get into those tight spots. In fact, the sharp edges are perfect for reaching into tiny crevices in patio pavers or driveways to pull out those persistent garden intruders.

In addition, this versatile multi-tool is great for clearing away thick moss, digging out deep-seated roots, or even cutting through bags of compost and soil. So it’s a win-win.

Whenever you can, using a scraper is much more efficient than the back-breaking task of hand-pulling. But if you prefer the manual method, experts agree you must remove the entire taproot to ensure those persistent weeds don't resurface.

“If you are dealing with weeds with deep taproots, such as thistle or dandelion, you need to remove all of the taproot growth if you do not want them to come back,” states Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf.

“This can be done by digging out the taproots using hand forks or trowels."

So before you head out to buy expensive weeding gear, you might want to take a look at your existing toolkit or leftover DIY stash for a clever weeding alternative.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 tips to banish weeds from your lawn that won't harm the grass
• This aluminum foil hack keeps birds away from grass seed — and it actually works
• 5 easy tips to fix bare patches on your lawn this spring

I used to live in an apartment, and the defining decision that led us to move to a house was the desire for a backyard.

I was lucky enough to have somewhat of an outdoor space, but let's use this term loosely: it was a teeny tiny terrace, which I did love, but it was admittedly a little too small when we had guests over in the summertime.

And then there was the gardening side — the one thing I always tried (and failed) to do on my terrace was to grow flowers and herbs. All this time, I thought I wasn't green-fingered. But skip to now, and you'll find wildflowers, an olive tree, and even a (soon-to-be) cherry tomato plant in my yard.

Why am I telling you this? If you're not in a position to move house for the sake of growing some flowers or herbs, then I've found an impressively cheap balcony hack for budding gardeners who'd like to start growing their own produce. And most of it is available at IKEA. Who'd have thought?

As it turns out, using a rolling utility cart to grow a container garden is the small backyard or balcony hack that we've all been overlooking.

A genius way to plant your own produce, and better yet: it's movable should you move apartments or need to bring your herbs inside to protect them from the weather.

This genius IKEA hack requires just a few items and a squeeze of patience when planting. It'll be sure to wow guests and add some color to your dinner plate this summer and beyond.

Better yet? It brings some much-needed life to a balcony or terrace space, and it fits into a corner with ease, so it won't take up much of your precious balcony floorspace at all.

Here's how to get started on yours:

What you need

• IKEA's RASKOG Utility Cart - $29.99/ £19
• 3 potted herbs of your choice
• Fast-draining potting mix — like this bag from Amazon
• Some felt planter liner like this from Amazon

What to do

One of the best things about this utility cart is the fact that its shelves are designed with mesh bases to allow for optimum ventilation.

So, instead of having to drill drainage holes into each shelf to prevent waterlogging, you can keep your toolset in the garage. Instead, a felt planter liner will come in handy.

These are easy to cut to size and are super breathable. This way, your soil won't drain through the mesh shelf bases, but your plants will still drain!

I'd avoid mixing herbs and just stick to one herb type on each shelf. This way, they won't compete for nutrients — some herbs like mint are fast-spreading and will take over.

Depending on what you're planting, it might be smart to place water-loving herbs at the bottom of your cart, as these will get plenty of extra water from the drainage from the middle and top shelves.

It's a good idea to first pop each pot in the center of each shelf (plant inside the pot). Add the soil around the pot and pat it down so everything is compact and tight. Give it a little water.

Then, remove each pot slowly, and you'll be left with a hole from the pot. Remove the herb from the pot and place it in this perfect-sized hole. Water again.

Good to know

When watering, remember that the drainage needs to go somewhere, so you might find it beneficial to pop a tray of some sort underneath the bottom shelf of your utility cart, just in case.

The wheels on this cart are lockable, but these wheels also make it great for moving in and out of the sun. It also comes in 4 colorways — beige/yellow, gray/green, pink, or white.

You should move it inside in extreme weather; just be mindful of your floor and perhaps use a towel to protect from any spillages.

More from Tom's Guide

• 7 mistakes it’s all too easy to make when growing herbs
• 7 easy-to-grow plants for beginners
• 10 vegetables you can grow in pots

When it comes to common pests in our backyard, skunks are probably the worst kind. Not only can they destroy your plants and lawn by digging for food sources such as grubs, but they can unleash a pungent, sulfuric odor that lingers throughout your entire property.

To make matters worse, while these striped critters may look harmless, they can carry diseases such as rabies and salmonella. They can also spread canine distemper, a condition that can be deadly for dogs.

That’s why it’s so important to know how to get rid of skunks and keep them away for good. Since they are primarily nocturnal, they can be harder to spot while feeding at night.

What’s more, even though humans find their stench unbearable, these pests are actually repelled by a specific, surprising scent — and it’s not coffee grounds.

So if you want to banish skunks immediately, use this trick to drive them away from your property today.

How to use kitty litter to repel skunks

For cat parents out there, your pet’s bathroom habits could actually be a game-changer. It turns out that skunks hate the pungent smell of used kitty litter, thanks to the strong ammonia found in cat urine.

To use kitty litter effectively, place the tray or container at the entry points where skunks are getting through. If in doubt, thoroughly inspect your yard, in particular any tucked-away spots like the areas beneath porches, sheds, or garden corners.

Alternatively, if you’d rather not have kitty litter scattered across your yard, simply place it inside a perforated plastic bag. This keeps things tidy while still allowing those repulsive ammonia fumes to escape and deter the skunks.

Bear in mind that this repulsive scent will eventually fade. So to maintain its effectiveness, you’ll need to regularly swap out the old litter for a fresh supply when possible. Plus, it’s a great way to repurpose and put your kitty litter to good use — a win-win!

Top tips to get rid of skunks

Of course, you don’t have to invest in a cat just to repel skunks from your yard. There are other, practical things you can do to make your yard less inviting for such pests.

First of all, secure your garbage/trash cans and don't let them overflow. Since skunks are attracted to areas where they can find food sources, you’ll often find them turning over trash cans and generally making a mess. The same goes for other food sources you might leave out for birds or other pets, and remove stagnant water that serves as another major skunk magnet.

Another top tip is to block any visible entry points, as such pests are notorious for digging dens beneath sheds, porches, foundations, and even under AC unit pads. Experts suggest sealing these crevices using metal flashing or sturdy hardware cloth. Just ensure every connection is tight and flush to keep them out for good.

Alternatively, if you’re dealing with a persistent skunk issue, it’s always best to call in the professionals and NEVER try to handle a skunk yourself.

For more top tips, check out how to spot the signs of a skunk and keep them away from your property.

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With the arrival of summer, seasonal pests are at their absolute peak — and ants are my number one problem.

And if it’s not trying to banish ants from my yard or blocking them from my kitchen — now they've launched a full-scale invasion of my garden beds too.

We’ve been trying to grow a vegetable patch in my raised planter — where we’ve recently planted everything from fresh herbs and salad greens to melon seeds. But that took a frustrating turn when I discovered the soil had become a playground for ants, literally swarming on the soil and attacking some of the plants.

Since I didn’t want to contaminate my crops with chemicals, I called on the gardening experts to share some top tips on the most effective ways to save my raised beds from these tiny invaders.

What causes ants to invade raised beds?

One thing that always puzzled me was what attracted ants to my raised beds — especially when it’s literally off the ground.

"Ants usually follow one of two things — food or real estate,” states Kyle Turner, President & CEO of Be Proactive Pest Control. “Raised beds offer loose, well-drained soil that's perfect for tunneling, and if you have aphids on your vegetables, you've basically opened an all-you-can-eat buffet."

What’s more, scale insects or other sap-feeding pests produce a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew, which is enticing to ants who collect it as a tasty food source.

“The issue is when large colonies begin disturbing roots or protecting aphids from their natural predators.”

Another thing I learned is that during these sweltering temperatures, consistently dry soil provides the ideal environment for a colony to thrive, which perfectly explains the infestation I found. Plus, if you have rotting timber around older raised beds, this will also attract these tiny critters.

Surprisingly, not all ants are a cause for concern and may actually be helpful in the yard.

“It is also worth remembering that a few ants in a raised bed are not always harmful,” adds Rick Young, Pest Control Professional and Owner of Youngs Pest Control.

“Ants can aerate the soil and remove dead insects. Action is usually only needed when there is a large nest, plants are being disturbed, aphids are being protected, or ants are repeatedly entering the home from the planter.”

How to get rid of an ant infestation without harming your plants?

So, what’s the best way to remove an army of ants? "The best long-term fix is to eliminate the reason they're there,” suggests Turner.

“If aphids are present, knock them off plants with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap. Once the honeydew disappears, the ants often lose interest. For nests in the bed, repeatedly soaking the colony with water can encourage them to relocate without affecting your vegetables."

In addition, always inspect your plants and ensure they are in good shape. "Keep plants healthy, inspect the undersides of leaves regularly for aphids, harvest ripe produce promptly, and avoid letting weeds establish around the beds since they can host both aphids and ants," Turner adds.

Another top tip is to ensure you regularly give your raised bed a deep watering. Since ants prefer dry, well-drained nesting sites, watering can encourage them to move along.

Just be sure not to overwater, as you want to avoid the risk of waterlogging or ruining your plant roots.

What natural ant repellents can I use?

I’m a big advocate for using non-toxic pest solutions around the house, and it turns out that beyond D.E (food-grade), everyday kitchen staples can be just as effective at keeping ants at bay.

“Cinnamon applied around the bed perimeter works as a genuine deterrent, not just folklore,” advises Glen Chandler, Gardener & Founder of Evergreenseeds.com. “Ants avoid crossing it, and it breaks down harmlessly into the soil. Reapply after rain.

“Diluted peppermint oil (about 10 drops per litre of water) sprayed around the base of plants disrupts the scent trails ants use to navigate. It needs to be reapplied every few days, but it's completely safe around edibles.”

What’s more, I tried citrus peel in my kitchen when I had a few rogue ants, and I was impressed at how effective it was. Plus, it was a good way to repurpose my food waste.

“Citrus peel worked into the top layer of soil releases d-limonene as it breaks down, which ants strongly avoid,” agrees Chandler. “I tell gardeners to save their lemon and orange peels through the week and work them in around the bed edges.”

Armed with these expert-approved tips, I feel much better equipped to banish any ant colony from my raised beds and reclaim my garden this season. Watch this space.

More from Tom's Guide

• How do I know what kind of ants I have in my home and why it matters? I ask the pest experts
• Pest experts warn you should never squash ants in your home — here’s why
• 5 steps to stop carpenter ants before they infest your home

When it comes to house chores, vacuuming has got to be the one task that I often do (and find weirdly satisfying).

And since I review the best vacuum cleaners for a living, I’ve got the bonus of testing out the latest models on my hardwood, tiles, and carpet to see which one can ultimately get my floors spotless and dust-free in no time.

From bagged and upright to cordless and air-blasting handhelds, I’ve tested them all. But when the Shark BlastBoss came my way, I found a new use for it altogether – and it wasn’t for cleaning.

Despite looking like a retro hair dryer, the BlastBoss is exactly that — it’s a powerful, air-blasting system that can be used to blast away cobwebs, dustballs, or loosen debris and leaves in seconds.

In fact, the adjustable-speed trigger can ramp up the airflow up to an eye-watering 190mph. What's more, it comes with attachments including a broom brush for scrubbing outdoor surfaces.

But while it serves as an impressive cleaning tool for shifting ingrained dirt, this has surprisingly become my gardening must-have.

Here’s how I’ve put my handheld BlastBoss to use outdoors.

Blowing grass clippings

If there is one outdoor task that I find particularly tedious, it’s raking the lawn after a fresh mow — especially the struggle of catching those stray clippings that always seem to end up on my paved patio.

I simply switched the setting to ‘Outdoor’ and was literally blown away by its sheer power. It effortlessly cleared the clippings in seconds, allowing me to gather everything into a single pile for a far more efficient clean-up.

Just bear in mind that you’ll need dry conditions for this to work effectively, as it won’t shift wet or soggy clippings.

Or if you really want to put your clippings to good use, check out why you should be leaving grass clippings on your lawn after mowing.

A handy leaf blower

At the back of my garden, the overgrown trees are often shedding foliage — resulting in a messy carpet of leaves scattered across the patio and lawn.

Rather than investing in a bulky, expensive leaf blower, I found the BlastBoss works as a surprisingly good alternative for clearing away my fallen leaves.

I was able to blast them into a tidy heap where it was easier for me to dispose of them in my compost bin. What's more, this task was quick and fuss-free, which is always a bonus.

Clearing debris/ weeds

Similarly, this powerful gadget proved brilliant for corralling stray weeds and general outdoor detritus.

After the arduous job of pulling out weeds from between my front paving stones, I used the powerful airflow to blast the remnants into a single heap for a far easier clear-up.

Not only did this make sure that all the weeds were in one spot (easy for me to spot), but made it a far more tidy-looking space.

For more weeding tips, I asked professional gardeners how to get rid of weeds from my lawn permanently — and they all say this one thing.

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There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes. And if you enjoy picking these straight from the vine and into your dishes (or mouth), it can be a letdown when your crop misses that bold, juicy flavor you had hoped for.

However, even though it looks ripe and ready for the picking, you’ll need to know the best stage of ripeness for picking a tomato.

What’s more, tomatoes on the vine are constantly at risk of damage from weather extremes, pests, and disease. Which is why identifying the ideal time to harvest is crucial for securing a high-quality, delicious yield.

So if you want to avoid a bland and disappointing crop, here are the three tomato picking stages — to ensure they are bursting with the juicy flavor you crave.

1. When your tomatoes are fully ripe and red

This is when your tomato crops have reached their full size, red color, and are firm in texture. These signs indicate that your harvest is ready for consumption, and experts suggest eating or using them immediately after they are picked for maximum flavor.

However, after harvesting, be sure you consume them within a day or two to enjoy them before their peak flavor begins to fade.

It’s also worth noting that the kind of tomato plant you select is vital for its final flavor.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D, horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield. Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before choosing which seeds to sow, you should investigate which particular cultivars align with your preferred flavor profiles.

For top tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. The ‘color break’ or turn stage

As the name suggests, this is the point at which the fruit begins to get color, about the size of a dime on the blossom end.

While it’s tempting to pluck and eat the fruit at this stage, you may be disappointed with the overall taste, as it hasn’t yet fully ripened.

A top tip is to place them on a countertop at room temperature for three days, and the tomato should ripen — ready for your tasty dishes.

Of course, if you want to keep them for longer, store them in the fridge for a few days.

3. Mature green stage

This is when your plant has a lighter green color but no pink/red showing yet on the blossom end. Typically, this indicates that your tomatoes are not quite ready to harvest, and usually takes about a week to fully ripen.

However, you can pluck and store them in the fridge for a few weeks at this stage of development. In addition, gardeners usually harvest mature green crops as the season ends to protect them from frost.

Top tip for tasty tomatoes

Although the heatwave might encourage more frequent watering, overwatering your plants can actually wash out the bold flavor you desire.

To avoid diluting those essential sugars and acids, a good tip is to water only once the upper two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer.

“Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll need to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering.

Add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all vital for healthy development and full flavor.

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest

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• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

I bought my first hydrangea this year. And despite everyone I know (well, my mom and grandma) telling me to plant it in the ground, I decided to defy the odds and keep it in my lovely garden pot. And it worked for approximately two months until it totally died. Or so I thought it did.

I took a few snaps of my once-pink and beautiful hydrangea and asked AI to help me bring it back to life. To my surprise, there were several things I was doing wrong, all of which definitely contributed to its rapid decay.

Now? It's showing some signs of regrowth, and I didn't even have to spend any money. Here's hoping that next year will bring some of these beautiful blooms back again.

Yes, there is a chance that you can save your potted hydrangea if it's looking a little sad because of the heat.

So whether you are battling parched patches or fragile stems, here is my personal process—and the expert-backed steps you should implement—before you give up and toss everything into the compost heap. After all, a little effort can go a long way!

1. You need to trim it back (trust me!)

One of the worst things that you can do if your hydrangea is dying is leave it to wilt and die.

Instead, you need to chop away the dead bits to make way for new life. Start by removing dead leaves and then focus on the dead stems.

A good way to test the stems is to scratch them slightly. If they are green underneath, they are alive, but brown means they're dead.

I had to trim back my entire hydrangea in the end, and I really wasn't feeling hopeful afterwards, to be honest. But I did manage to find a good few stems showing slithers of life.

2. It definitely needs a good drink

You might think that just watering your hydrangea with your watering can is enough. And most of the time, it is.

But when it's looking really sad or maybe almost dead, then it's time for a sink bath. Simply use your plug and fill your kitchen sink with water, place your pot in there, and let it have a really good drink.

A good way to check if your hydrangea needs a sink bath is to use a finger and poke it into its soil. If it's soggy or musty 2-3 inches down, it's been overwatered, or there might be poor drainage. If it's totally dry, in the sink it goes.

I left mine in the sink for 30 minutes. I then let it fully drain afterwards, before walking it back through my house and to my garden.

3. It probably needs to be moved

My garden is south-facing, which you think is great until it hits the summer months and being barefoot outside is no longer an option.

So, watering your plants three times a day becomes a chore and a necessity. All jokes aside: a south-facing garden is a little bit of a nightmare. And it's also probably the reason why some of your plants aren't surviving! After I moved my hydrangea from one side of my garden to the other, I saw a difference.

Simply moving its position from all-day sun to only morning sun and afternoon shade gave this plant a little bit of a break.

Now, it lives in the one spot in my garden that gets shade first, and it's loving it.

4. Feed it coffee

Just like yourself, your hydrangea plant thrives when given a coffee (or five!).

I have a bean-to-cup coffee maker, and I've been feeding this plant the spent grounds and water for around six weeks.

I don't overdo it, but a little does definitely help! There are so many good uses for coffee when it comes to gardening.

Top tip

You might find that a few weeds start growing in your potted hydrangea as you're trying to encourage new growth.

This is normal, but you should definitely remove these from the root as soon as possible. These weeds will be taking away any nutrients from your hydrangea, and as we know, it desperately needs all of the nutrients it can get right now.

The end results

Six weeks later, I can finally see new life coming back to my hydrangea plant. There's no chance of blooming flowers just yet, but it is showing promising signs of regrowth thanks to its obviously new and green leaves in the center of its pot.

And I even asked AI to confirm this for me, in case it was wishful thinking. I told it my location, and it assessed the photo I sent.

The roots are definitely still alive, and it's starting to reshoot from the base, which is what hydrangeas do after a severe dieback.

If yours is looking the same, then it recommends leaving it for another 2-3 weeks without pruning, as the current stems will protect new growth. After this, you can decide which stems are finally dead and which ones are showing positive signs. In this time, keep it moist but don't let it sit in lots of water.

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Now that summer has arrived, the scorching temperatures often take their toll on our previously lush and green grass. It’s disheartening to see unappealing yellow patches or spots on your lawn, particularly when you have gone the extra mile to seed bare spots.

In addition, you’re probably wondering why grass grows at a faster rate in some bare spots and not in others. Luckily, I’ve called on the lawn care experts to reveal why my grass is still patchy after seeding and to share tips on how to fix it.

What causes lawn to be patchy after seeding?

Essentially, overseeding is when you spread a thin layer of grass seed that matches your existing lawn type and climate zone. Experts usually suggest this method to fix bare spots, naked turf, or overrunning weeds, which are clear signs of density issues.

But why does your grass still look a little patchy even after you’ve seeded? According to experts, there could be several reasons for this — from birds swiping seeds off the ground to the breeze blowing some away.

“It’s quite common for the first go at seeding to come up slightly patchy,” adds Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf. “You tend to lose some seed either from the birds picking some off the ground, or through wind blowing it away, or heavy rain can also wash some away, giving you a sparse regrowth.”

Although it’s advisable to sprinkle the seeds by hand to tackle those smaller areas, you may be spreading it too thin in certain areas — leading to patchy turf after seeding.

“Sometimes, the area can appear sparse and patchy if you’ve seeded by hand, as sometimes there will be a higher concentration of seed in certain areas, depending on the way it fell when sown,” adds Handley.

“You can simply top up these areas with additional seed once you begin to notice the sparse areas. If you do this when the seed is just beginning to germinate, you’ll have a better chance of it blending together quickly.”

How do I fix my patchy lawn?

So what can I do to fix unsightly patches? Experts advise the best solution is to reseed the affected areas, using lawn repair products or a good fertilizer.

“Proper fertilization also encourages dense turf, effectively crowding out weeds and minimizing bare patches, reducing soil erosion and promoting overall lawn stability,” states Allison Koenig, lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

“Good fertilizing practice can help ensure you grow greener, healthier grass with a strong root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, and foot traffic.”

For top tips, check out how often should you fertilize your lawn and when to do it.

Of course, prevention is key, and there are top tips you can do before seeding to ensure you get lush, revived grass for the summer. These include things sowing at the right time of day or adding a layer of topsoil afterwards.

“There are ways to try and counteract this with the way that you sow – always factor in extra, it’s always better to overseed to over-prepare for any that may be lost, as well as covering the seeded area,” Handley suggests.

“Add in a thin layer of topsoil afterwards. This can help stop the birds from picking it off, and also helps the seed make good contact with the ground, improving your germination rate.

“Make sure it’s a light covering of topsoil so that you’re not smothering them, and try to sow on a mild day where temperatures are forecast to be consistent for a while for a better yield. You should also keep the area consistently moist but don’t overwater — if you’re getting a lot of rain, hold off on watering.”

Typically, you should ensure your lawn gets the recommended one to two inches of water each week, but during hot, dry spells, you may need to double the duration. Additionally, watering deeply every three to four days rather than daily helps promote stronger, more drought-resistant roots.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Basil is fussy about conditions. It comes from warm tropical environments where it thrives in heat, bright light, and consistent care. When basil starts turning yellow, it's essentially waving a flag. Something in its environment has shifted.

Once you understand what basil needs, diagnosing the problem becomes straightforward. In most cases, yellowing basil leaves signal one of three fixable issues. Here's how to identify which one and get your plant back to thriving.

1. Your basil is too wet

Overwatering causes about 80% of basil yellowing problems. Basil hates sitting in waterlogged soil. When soil stays damp, roots suffocate and can't absorb nutrients or oxygen. The plant essentially drowns from the inside.

Look at the lower leaves first. If they're turning soft and mushy yellow while the soil feels damp or smells stale, you're watering too much. The fix is immediate: stop watering completely. Let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry out entirely before you water again.

Also, make sure your pot has drainage holes. This is non-negotiable for basil.

Going forward, water when soil feels dry to the touch, not on a schedule. Basil would rather be slightly underwatered than oversaturated.

2. It's living in the shadows

Basil is a sun worshipper that needs 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to maintain its green color. Without it, the entire plant looks pale and yellowish. You'll also notice the stems getting long, thin, and stretchy as they reach desperately toward the nearest light source.

Move basil to your absolute sunniest window, preferably south-facing. If indoor light is genuinely limited, a cheap LED grow light makes an enormous difference. Even a few hours under a grow light daily revives pale, yellowing basil remarkably fast.

Outdoor placement works too, if weather allows. Exposure to full sun transforms basil plants within days.

3. The soil has nothing left to give

Basil grows aggressively and depletes potting soil nutrients within 4-6 weeks. Nitrogen deficiency is usually the culprit behind yellowing leaves. Unlike the mushy yellow from overwatering, nutrient-starved basil stays firm. The entire plant just looks pale and stunted.

Give it a drink of balanced, water-soluble fertilizer mixed at half strength — tomato or herb fertilizer works perfectly. One feeding usually restores color within a week or two. If you're using basil heavily for cooking, consider fertilizing every 2-3 weeks to keep nutrients available.

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While their distinctive black-and-white coats are easily identifiable, skunks are rarely welcomed as backyard friends. Instead, they are often dismissed as garden pests.

Their reputation for being stinky creatures far outweighs their striking appearance, an annoyance only amplified by the mess they make digging up lawns in search of grubs.

How to tell if a skunk’s been in your backyard

Even if you don’t spot a skunk in broad daylight, they leave clear signs behind. Brandon Runyon, entomologist at Swat Pest Management, says, “You may see signs of digging, knocked-over trash cans, and even smell that a skunk’s been about.”

According to Angelika Zaber, lawn care specialist and gardening expert at Online Turf, skunks typically dig 3-4-inch holes in lawns as they scratch around for grubs. And she also warns that the animals’ unpleasant sulfur-like spray can penetrate clothing or furniture that’s left outside.

If you keep livestock in your backyard, keep an eye on your coops. Zaber adds that skunks will target poultry and eat their eggs — a crime you can detect by an eggshell opened at one end, with the edges crushed inward.

What do skunks eat?

Runyon explains that these black-and-white creatures are omnivores, obtaining energy and nutrients from both plant and animal matter. This leaves a whole host of opportunities for skunks in your backyard.

Apart from devouring fallen nuts and fruit in your yard, he says they’ll also knock over trash cans to find food and will wreak havoc on your lawn, digging up Japanese beetles, beetle grubs and earthworms.

What’s more, if you leave out cat and dog food for stray animals or your pets, you’re inviting skunks to tuck in.

Where do skunks shelter?

While the skunks are causing havoc in your yard, rooting for food, they may also be looking for a suitable den. “This could be under your deck, your shed, your porch, or any other place where they can burrow, such as thick brush, wood piles and leaf piles,” explains Runyon.

To deter them, Zaber recommends fixing any spaces that they can call home.

Skunk deterrents

There are natural repellents you can use at home to deter skunks, although Runyon says they’re not long-term fixes. Instead, both experts recommend the following measures.

1. Stop skunks from entering
Place a big defender around your fence line to keep skunks from digging into your yard.

2. Cover up your trash
Keep the lids on your trash cans and secure them with locks if practical. If your trash can is knocked over, the contents won’t spill out if the lid is securely in place.

3. Reduce potential den sites
Tidy up your backyard and remove any wood piles and leaf litter where skunks can make a den. Then, secure any other potential hideouts by closing up gaps beneath sheds and houses.

4. Protect your lawn
Newly laid lawns are particularly attractive to skunks, as they are often well-watered and have plenty of grubs. To reduce both skunk and grub activity, apply a grub treatment and water your lawn correctly.

5. Keep pet food inside
Avoid leaving pet food outside for any length of time, and if you can feed your animals inside your house.

Friend or foe?

While you might prefer to banish skunks from your yard, Back to the Wild, a wildlife sanctuary in Ohio, recognizes what skunks have to offer.

In an Instagram post, the sanctuary shares, “These nocturnal neighbors help control insect and rodent populations, and they actually help protect lawns, gardens and native plant life.

"They’re shy, peaceful animals that would much rather avoid you than confront you. So if you spot a skunk wandering through your yard, don’t panic! You may have a tiny pest-control specialist working the night shift.”

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There's something wonderfully reassuring about gardening methods that have survived centuries. While modern gadgets and chemicals promise quick fixes, the approaches our grandparents relied on still deliver.

These techniques are rooted in a deep, intuitive understanding of how a garden actually grows. It is practical knowledge, proven generation after generation, that creates a truly resilient and beautiful plot.

Here are seven timeless rules worth bringing back to your garden.

What’s the single best piece of gardening wisdom you've learned? Maybe it's a quirky trick for sweeter tomatoes, a natural pest remedy, or a simple rule for reading the weather. Tell us in the comments below!

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With temperatures soaring, we’re not the only ones who are feeling parched — our plants are also bearing the brunt of extreme temperatures. Beyond simply adjusting your seasonal lawn care routine, it is vital to adopt strategies that ensure your plants can withstand the heatwave.

Whether you have favorite houseplants, raised beds, or tasty tomato plants, you’ll need to know how to protect them in scorching temperatures. If not, your plants will struggle in the sun and eventually die. Luckily, we’ve got a gardening expert at hand to offer a few top tips that can help your plants thrive and survive the summer.

1. Water at the right time of day

While it might be tempting to water your plants more when the weather is scorching, timing is actually everything.

Experts advise watering your garden either in the early morning or the evening once temperatures are cooler. By watering during these cooler hours, your plants can soak up the water rather than just evaporating.

“When it comes to watering, it’s important to water deeply at the coolest points of the day,” states Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.

“If it’s too hot, the water will just evaporate, and your plants won’t benefit.”

In addition, you should aim to give the roots a deep watering, as this will be much more effective than light and frequent watering.

And if you want to retain moisture for extended periods, add a layer of mulch around the base of your plants. “Adding a generous layer of mulch at the base of your plants will help improve the soil structure and will allow the soil to retain water for longer.”

So not only does it help to retain moisture in the soil, but acts as an insulator against the sun's UV rays.

If you want more top tips check out when you should replace mulch — and why it's essential.

2. Throw some shade

Another top tip is to move potted plants out of the sun and into shaded areas during the hottest part of the day. Just like us, this will provide our plants with some light relief and keep them cool.

“For plants that can’t be moved, or heavy pots, cover them with a shade cloth or make your own temporary one out of an old fitted bed sheet,” adds Bonnett.

Young or newly established plants will especially struggle in scorching temperatures — protect them by creating temporary cover with a shade cloth.

3. Stay away from fertilizers

A common mistake we often make is to add fertilizers to our wilting plants, but experts advise to steer clear of using in a heatwave.

“Stay away from fertilizing the lawn or plants during a heatwave,” agrees Bonnett. “Not only can they burn plants but fertilizers encourage new growth which can stress plants and cause them more harm than good.

Similarly, avoid pruning while the sun is at its peak. Cutting back growth now can place additional, unwanted pressure on your greenery — it is far better to hold off until the mercury begins to fall.

For more summer gardening tips, check out can you plant in a heatwave?

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Nothing beats the taste of homegrown tomatoes — freshly picked off the vine and thrown straight into your tasty meals. And even though these crops are considered the easiest to grow, it can be disappointing when you end up with more lush foliage than fruit.

This is especially true when you were looking forward to a juicy, flavorful harvest this summer. If your plants aren't producing, don't despair — there are several reasons behind your missing fruit and simple ways to get your crops back on track.

So, if you find yourself struggling with a plant that is all foliage and no fruit, these are the three most common pitfalls you might be making. Plus simple tips to ensure a bountiful harvest.

1. Choose the right variety for your climate

One key factor behind your lack of tomato harvest could be your climate. Typically, tomatoes thrive in temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. And if your planting area is either too hot or too cool, your crops will struggle to flower properly, resulting in a disappointing lack of fruit.

If your plants continue to struggle with flowering and you haven’t seen any fruit in months, try switching to another variety that is more suited to your local weather conditions.

For those living in the sun-drenched South, choosing heat-tolerant types like Buffalosun, Cherokee Purple, Stellar, or Pink Delicious can help you secure a flavorful harvest.

Those in colder regions with limited summer windows should opt for hardy varieties such as Washington Cherry, Legend, and Sub-Arctic Plenty to ensure their plants thrive.

In addition, tomato flowers tend to self-pollinate once the flower opens. If the weather conditions are affected by excessive heat, cold, or moisture levels, the pollen from the male parts of the flower may not reach the female parts — affecting development.

One pro tip is to try giving your tomato stems a light shake as soon as the first blossoms come through, as this simple trick can help promote better fruit set.

For more planting tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. Give your tomatoes enough sun

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants and need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help them produce more fruit. Without adequate sunshine, plants struggle to photosynthesize, and they will lack the energy to thrive.

As a result, this leads to tall, spindly growth, producing very few flowers and a sparse harvest of tomatoes to enjoy.

What’s more, low-light conditions are known to produce watery, bland fruit that lacks sweetness. So if you want to ensure juicy and flavorful fruit all season, let it soak up enough sun.

If you’re growing tomatoes in pots, it might be best to relocate them to a sunnier area in the home, and monitor the sun’s movement during growing season.

3. Watering tomatoes properly

While the summer heat might tempt you to reach for the hose more often, overwatering or under-watering your tomatoes can result in poor growth, wilting, and a lack of flowers and fruit.

The general rule of thumb is to water deeply and consistently when the top two inches of soil begin to dry. You can always check the soil for dryness before watering again with a water meter.

Plus, you’ll want to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering. So a top tip is to add a rich, organic fertilizer like a layer of mulch around the base of the plants. Not only will it provide essential nutrients, but can act as a weed barrier, and prevent disease.

To get more out of your harvest this summer, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

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I've been trying to get the right bird feeder for my garden for months. From my hanging cage that attracts unwanted attention from squirrels, to the smaller wooden box that keeps falling down, to the DIY one my son made that came under attack, I'm not having much luck.

So, I turned to my old faithful — a flat bird feeder that balances safely upon a pole and provides a roof to shield the food from the elements. Only, it turns out, that's exactly what I shouldn't be using. While I thought I was doing something good for my local wildlife with the most stable option, in fact, using a flat bird feeder could be having the opposite effect. And if you're using one too, you might want to rethink it.

Why you shouldn't be using a flat bird feeder 

Bird tables feel like one of the most common ways to feed birds that are local to your area and that's because they are. But, conservation charities like Britain's Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) strongly advise against them and there's a good reason for it.

According to the RSPB, it's actually a hot bed for disease, specifically finch trichomonosis, a highly contagious variant that's easily spread around bird feeders. And the problem with flat bird feeders in particular is that the feed sits out in one spot for extended periods of time where birds continuously visit and revisit it.

RSPB specifically advises: "Don't use bird feeders with flat surfaces, such as bird tables, window feeders and feeders with trays. Research has confirmed that there's a higher risk of disease spreading on flat surfaces, where contaminated food can collect."

Leaving diseased food or droppings on a flat surface can have devastating consequences for your garden birds, so instead of using flat bird feeders, you should be avoiding them.

What you should do instead

Fortunately, both the RSPB and The National Audubon Society have abundant advice on what you should do instead if, like me, you're struggling to find the right solution for feeding your garden birds.

The National Audubon Society recommends that to prevent the spread of illness, you need to follow three simple steps: "Clean feeders regularly, tidy below the feeder and share the wealth." The National Wildlife Health Center advises that to clean them, you should make "a solution of nine parts water to one part bleach," making sure to dry the bird feeder fully before putting it back out.

Tidying below it is also important, as well as to "share the wealth" by spreading out food among a few feeders to hopefully reduce the chance of all of them becoming contaminated.

Overarching all this advice, the RSPB says that what you should really be doing is to "help birds find their own food." It recommends instead that you should be helping garden birds to discover foods by planting bird-friendly plants in your garden, including sunflowers and ivy.

If you want to use bird feeders, it seems choosing hanging ones are your best option, as long as you're keeping them clean and moving them around regularly so that food build-up doesn't occur. I'll just make sure that next time I buy a hanging bird feeder, it's one that deters squirrels.

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Three years ago, my wife and I planted a peach tree in our backyard, and have been enchanted with its lovely scent when it blooms in the spring. Each year, it also produces dozens of peaches, which we eagerly wait to ripen. However, all too often, the tree is systematically stripped bare by ravenous squirrels, who seem to know just when to pluck the fruit from the tree.

It's utterly frustrating. After we saw it happen the first year, we tried netting the second year, but it was a pain to wrap around the tree; the squirrels were undeterred, and by mid-June, the tree was barren of all peaches.

This year, I'm trying something different using something I would have otherwise thrown out with the trash, and it's working so far. Here's what I did.

Strawberry containers to the rescue

Due to my daughter's fondness for the fruit, we go through at least one container of strawberries per week. Our supermarket carries the Driscoll brand, which come in rectangular plastic containers. Normally, these containers get thrown into the garbage or recycling, but this past spring, as I was getting ready to toss one out, I took a look at the container, which gave me an idea.

The strawberry container is designed to allow for airflow, so that the strawberries don't get moldy. But, I also realized that these slots could also work to my advantage on my peach tree.

I opened a container, placed it around a peach, and then snapped it shut. The slots in the container not only let the peach breathe, but they're also large enough so that I can put it around a branch without damaging it.

How it's going so far

I used strawberry containers to protect about a half-dozen peaches, and wouldn't you know, those are the only peaches that are still on the tree. I had my doubts about the small plastic locks on the containers, but they've remained secure, even through some pretty big and gusty thunderstorms.

The squirrels haven't yet figured out how to open the containers — and I hope they don't — but few things are as tempting.

I also tried using a blueberry container, but they don't have the same slots around the top rim, so when I cut holes to allow for the branch, the container lost all its structural stability, and wouldn't remain locked on the tree.

The peaches are growing slowly, but steadily. The biggest downside is that having a bunch of plastic containers on the tree isn't the most aesthetically pleasing, but if that's the price to pay for a juicy peach from my own tree, then it's something I'll gladly accept.

What are your tricks for keeping squirrels away from your fruit trees? Let me know in the comments.

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Summer is here, and the perfect time to get out and enjoy your outdoor spaces in style. Whether you take pride in your lush lawn or are preparing for hosting gatherings, a patterned lawn can truly provide that wow factor and elevate your entire garden.

But if you don’t want a classic striped lawn or even a diamond pattern, why not try a twist with the checkerboard effect? Known for its unique, geometric squares, you can easily replicate this look by switching your travel path while mowing.

In fact, this specific method is a favorite for golf course managers, which can instantly give your own backyard a premium appeal. What’s more, this method will make your grass appear healthier.

While it may seem like a job for the professionals, mastering the checkerboard effect is actually quite easy to do. I asked a grass expert to share their top tips on how to mow a checkerboard pattern the right way — so your lawn can be the envy of your neighbors.

How to create a checkerboard lawn — in 2 easy steps

Creating a checkerboard pattern is pretty straightforward. In this method, you simply need to alternate your mowing path between horizontal and vertical passes across your turf.

Before you start, experts advise that your grass should be thick and healthy. This is because the pattern actually comes from the blades leaning in different directions and the light bouncing off it. So if your lawn is patchy, bumpy, or in bad condition overall, this will affect the overall results.

“You need to make sure you have a healthy and even lawn before you begin,” advises Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

“The checkerboard appearance comes from the blades leaning in different directions and the light bouncing off it, so a bumpy or patchy lawn might not be as effective”.

In addition, it’s ideal to have helpful tools such as a lawn roller; however, most standard mowers have this already attached. More importantly, you should ensure that your mower's blades are perfectly sharp before you begin.

“A roller is essential; most standard mowers have these attached to the rear, but you can use a separate roller if you prefer, ”advises Davis. “Plot your path, either using string or stakes. You can try to mentally plan your route, but this could lead to wonky lines. “

Begin by mowing a horizontal line through your turf. Then, rotate your mower to complete a vertical pass alongside it, alternating your route with every subsequent pass.

“Mow the first set of stripes in one direction across the whole lawn, alternating the direction of travel on each pass - up and then back down,” adds Davis.

“Then turn 90 degrees and repeat the process. The second pass will intersect the first, and where the two directions overlap, you get the checkerboard squares instead of simple stripes.”

By following these steps precisely, you should achieve a checkerboard pattern, although bear in mind the lines may be a little subtle at first. In any case, as your grass grows, you’ll need to re-mow or re-roll over the original pattern to ensure your distinct pattern.

“Changing the pattern of your lawn can have some benefits,” states Davis. “It prevents the grass from leaning in one set direction, which can weaken it over time and make it grow unevenly.

“It can also lead to less soil compaction. Driving or walking over the same sections in the same way can compress the soil, which restricts root growth and drainage. Switching your route up spreads that wear out.”

The same rules apply for regular mowing, and you must avoid doing a checkerboard pattern when the grass is damp or moist. This can lead to clumping — or ruin the overall aesthetic.

“Avoid doing it when the ground is wet as this can lead to clumping. Mowing during periods of hot weather can also lead to your turf becoming stressed,” Davis explains.

“A striped, two-tone checkerboard effect you see on sports fields or golf courses is actually quite achievable in your own garden”.

So if you’re looking to truly spruce up your backyard this season, give your turf a premium checkerboard upgrade.

For more top lawncare tips, check out 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Hollyhocks are my absolute favorite flowers, ever, and I'm lucky enough to have a few of these beauties in my own garden. They are the ultimate cottage garden classic: tall with large, gorgeous blooms, the kind of plant that just commands attention. But they can also be incredibly frustrating.

It’s a classic gardening letdown, isn't it? You spend all summer admiring those towering stalks, only for them to vanish, leaving you wondering if you did something wrong. The trick to a reliable yearly display, however, is simply working with their natural two-year lifecycle.

By spending just a minute at the end of the season to guide their seeding process, you can easily establish a permanent, self-sustaining patch that comes back every summer.

• Ditch the bark mulch: Hardwood bark mulch chips act like a shield. Hollyhock seeds need direct contact with the soil and consistent summer moisture to germinate. If you must mulch for weed control, switch to a thin layer of rich, well-rotted compost, which naturally breaks down into a loose, fertile seedbed.
  
• Keep soil exposed and untilled: Ensure the ground immediately surrounding your current hollyhocks is slightly exposed. Avoid digging up or tilling this area in the autumn, as you will bury the dropped seeds too deep. They prefer to sit right on the surface.
  
• Learn to recognize the 'Babies': In the autumn or early the following spring, tiny new hollyhock leaves will begin to carpet the ground. They look like small, fuzzy, rounded green saucers with scalloped edges. Learn to spot them immediately so you don't accidentally pull them up during your seasonal weeding sessions.

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I've been having trouble with my tomatoes. As part of my grow-it-yourself mission this year, I planted a variety of vegetables in spring that I was hoping I'd be harvesting by now for some delicious summer salads. Unfortunately, my garden has had other plans. Despite taking top tips from an Italian farmer and I've even adopting a 3-step pruning system, I'm still always on the lookout for more ways to help my tomatoes grow.

And I've recently stumbled upon a cheap and potentially genius gardening hack that could be my answer to high-yield and hopefully ripe tomatoes. It turns out all I need is to keep the simple kitchen scrap that I've been throwing away for years – fish scraps.

Here's what happened when I gave it a try.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @selfsufficientme (also known as Mark Valencia) shares his gardening tips to over 230k followers and it's one of his most popular videos of all time with 3 million views and counting that I found particularly interesting – using fish scraps for great tomatoes.

In the video above, Mark carries out an experiment where he buries fish scraps in the soil alongside his tomato plants and then plants a section with no fish scraps to see the difference as they grow. For this, he used two fish heads and no other fertilizer for one and nothing at all for the other. He then pruned and watered the plants the same to see how they'd fare.

While he noticed that the no fish heads tomato plant was growing better to begin with, as well as having the first ripe tomatoes, it quickly changed. He says once they both produced tomatoes: "It was noticeable that the fish head tomatoes were also producing more fruit. After the five to six month mark in October, there was a considerable difference beginning to show between the two plants.

"The ones with the fish head were still growing strong with much better fruit and foliage growth than the ones without the fish head which were pale, dying back and had practically stopped producing new tomatoes."

The fish works as a fertilizer around the tomato plants roots and as it decomposes, it releases nutrients like phosphorus and potassium that the tomato plant can thrive on. While I thought it was strange that I'd never heard of it before, I figured it was time for me to give it a go.

Here's what happened when I tried it

Admittedly, when I first saw Mark's video, I thought it was kind of gross. I don't tend to cut up whole raw fish regularly, but I do from time to time. Since I was planning on firing up my grill this summer, I figured it would be a good time to give it a go.

While I'd usually just opt to throw the fish scraps away quickly, this time I held on to them.

Yes, I was tempted to buy the fish emulsion fertilizer straight from the shops; I also knew from Mark's video that it would be better to try this out with fresh fish to hopefully get the best results (and that it would also be a lot cheaper). So, I chopped up some bits of fish and buried them down into the soil where I was planting my tomato plants.

For now, I'm not at the stage where I can pass a judgment on how well my tomato plants are doing because it'll take some time. But, I can happily say that it was relatively fuss-free and I can now truly feel like I'm not wasting anything when buying a whole fish as I'm utilizing every single part of it. Plus, the grilled fish in itself was an extra treat.

So, it didn't cost me any additional cash to try it out and I'm pretty hopeful that from Mark's results, I'll be able to yield some lovely ripe tomatoes in a two to three months time. I'm just hoping they don't taste like fish when I get round to eating them...

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As temperatures start soaring, getting a comfortable night’s sleep during a sweltering heatwave can often be a nightmare. Even if you run your fan on full blast, the constant whirring sound can be just as disturbing — while quietly driving up your electricity bills overnight.

Fortunately, I've just discovered a smart way to help you stay cool at night without costing you. Not only is it a simple and practically ‘free’, but it involves a common bathroom staple that everyone has.

So if you want a quick way to chill out, check out this simple yet genius trick to help you survive a heatwave.

Hang a damp towel in front of your window

According to home experts, cracking open a window and draping a sheet or towel thoroughly soaked in cold water right in front of the breeze serves as a brilliant hack to cool your room's temperature.

This strange method works by instantly chilling the incoming outdoor heat as it flows through the wet material, blowing a refreshing breeze straight into your space. Essentially, the moisture from the towel absorbs the warmth from the outdoor air right at the window before it can flow inside your room.

So how can you do this? Simply fill a bowl or sink with water, and slightly dampen your towel (don’t soak it, or else it won’t work). Next, hang the towel in front of an open window to maximize the breeze, or if you prefer, you can also hang a towel across a doorway.

You’ll start to notice that your bedroom should feel considerably cooler and more comfortable throughout the evening (without any noise). Once the towel has dried out, simply re-dampen it, and replace What’s more, this uses zero electricity and will further save you on your energy bills — a win-win.

Alternatively, a sleep expert has suggested another strange hack to keep cool — sleep in damp socks! “This is an extremely strange one, but definitely hear me out,” adds Dr Deborah Lee, sleep expert from Doctor Fox working with Comfybedss.

“Wearing a pair of slightly damp cotton socks to bed can help us bring our core body temperature down through a process called evaporative cooling.

Our feet play a huge part in helping our body’s temperature regulate, so keeping them cool is vital and has a knock-on effect on the whole body. Rinse the socks out under the tap, wring them up so they’re not dripping and pop them on before bedtime.”

So if you ever want a quick way to instantly cool down your bedroom in a heatwave — or you're stuck without a fan, put your bathroom towels to good use instead.

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Summer is here, and it's the ideal time to get outdoors in your backyard and enjoy the weather. However, foul odors coming from your composting bin can quickly ruin that outdoor enjoyment. This is especially true if you plan to host Fourth of July festivities.

Learning how to make compost at home is an eco-friendly and cost-effective way to transform organic waste into valuable nutrients for our gardens and lawn care. But if your compost bin is starting to smell rancid in the heat, you could be making one of these composting mistakes.

Whether it's throwing the wrong waste into the bin, not turning it over enough, or excess moisture, these can all contribute to your compost smelling bad. Luckily, this can be resolved with a few quick fixes that won’t take much time.

So if you want to quickly get rid of horrid compost smells this summer, try these top tips.

1. Sprinkle baking soda to absorb odors

Baking soda may be a pantry staple, but it’s also known for its natural deodorizing properties. In fact, I have a bowl in my fridge to eliminate lingering odors, and there are many ways to use baking soda in your yard.

Simply sprinkle baking soda over your compost heap once you detect a whiff. This should help absorb lingering odors and prevent them from causing a stench.

Bear in mind to apply this remedy with a light hand, as overdoing it can actually stifle beneficial microbial activity and heavily stall the breakdown process.

2. Regularly turn over your compost

Typically, materials high in nitrogen content are the worst culprits when it comes to making a stench. Not only do you need the correct 3:1 ratio of brown to green materials by volume, but you also need to turn it over periodically.

Just like growing plants, compost also needs oxygen and water to produce top-quality, healthy soil.

As it’s decomposing, the middle of your heap can easily become deprived of oxygen, requiring a bit of aeration. Thoroughly mixing the mixture helps it break down much faster while preventing organic waste from compacting and creating a rancid stench.

You can easily introduce oxygen throughout the heap by using a garden fork or spade to mix it well. Just be careful not to overfill the bin; otherwise, you won't have adequate space to turn the contents over without making a mess.

In fact, compost tumblers are super easy to use. These feature chambers for adding and removing compost, and aeration holes that allow air in each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to all parts.

3. Throw in more brown materials

Another reason for smelly compost could be that your pile is too wet from overwatering (or even underwatering).

While keeping your heap damp with a light misting is fine, avoid giving too much or too little water. Excessive moisture can quickly drown your pile, suffocating the beneficial microbes that break down the waste. This common composting mistake creates a foul odor, causing the materials to rot rather than break down properly.

One solution is to add in some dry brown materials (like garden waste or cardboard) to absorb the excess liquid, or give it a good turn with a garden fork to increase aeration. On the other hand, if your compost looks completely dry and brittle, simply add more fresh green waste and sprinkle it with a bit of water to restore moisture.

Furthermore, the benefits of composting extend beyond just enriching our yards.

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Summer is here, and we’re not the only ones who are feeling parched in the heat. If you take pride in your lush and green grass, it can be disheartening when you notice yellow patches suddenly appearing that quickly ruin the overall look.

This is especially the case if you’re hosting those backyard barbecues or gatherings. So if you’ve been watering and maintaining your yard, you’re probably wondering why you have yellow patches in your lawn.

We’ve called on the gardening and lawn care experts at hand to share their top tips on how to get rid of those discolored spots on your lawn and what causes them in the first place. So, read on if you want to revive and bring your lawn back to life this summer.

What causes the yellow patches in my lawn?

Essentially, a yellowing lawn is common when the weather switches from heavy rain to a sudden dry spell. Scientifically, this yellowing is known as chlorosis.

Particularly, when grass undergoes stress, the green chlorophyll breaks down, and this process exposes the underlying yellow carotenoid pigments that are typically concealed during healthier periods.

According to experts, there are various causes for your lackluster lawn. One obvious reason could be not watering your lawn adequately during hot spells, which can dry out the soil. Ideally, you should water deeply and infrequently, as this helps the roots grow stronger and penetrate deeper into the soil.

“If you notice yellow patches in your lawn, it might be a sign that you are overwatering or underwatering your grass,” said Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply.

Basically, if your grass looks dry, turns brown, or has a crispy texture to it, you're likely under-watering, and your grass is parched. But if the grass is constantly soggy, has yellowing patches, or shows signs of mold or fungus, it’s a clear sign of overwatering, and you should reduce the amount of water your lawn is getting.

“The best way to tell what your lawn needs is through a quick soil check," Koenig said. "If it feels compacted and doesn’t absorb water well, you may be overwatering, while a dry, hard soil signals that your lawn needs more moisture.”

Another reason could be diseases or pests, in particular chaffer grubs and leatherjackets that are known to feed directly on the grass roots, literally sucking out the water and essential nutrients it needs to thrive.

“As they feed directly on the roots of the grass, they sever your lawn’s connection to its water and nutrient supply,” adds Angelika Zaber, Lawn Care Specialist and Gardening Expert working for Online Turf.

“In terms of diseases, Fusarium is a common culprit since it often shows up as small, yellow, circular patches. To treat it, reduce the amount of thatch and loosen the soil by scarifying and aerating your lawn. Additionally, avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Instead, use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen but high in potassium.”

Furthermore, for those with furry companions, discolored spots frequently stem from animal waste. “Pet urine can also cause those yellow or brown spots on your lawn because of the high nitrogen levels, which essentially burn the grass,” explained Koenig.

“To prevent these spots, one effective approach is to immediately water the area where your pet has urinated," Koenig said. "This dilutes the nitrogen and prevents it from "burning" the grass, preventing the brown spots from appearing. You can also try training your pet to use a designated area of the yard, such as a gravel or mulch patch, where the urine won’t harm your lawn.”

How do I fix any yellow patches?

First, it’s advisable to start with a soil test to help you determine the pH levels and what nutrients it’s deficient in.

"This will help you determine the pH levels of the soil as well as if it has adequate nutrients and organic matter present," said Theresa Smith, the SVP at NaturaLawn of America.

“If the soil test results show signs of the soil having adequate nutrient content, then you know the yellowing or browning of the grass is being caused by an environmental factor or is under physical stress”.

So, once you have established the cause for your discolored grass, how do you fix your unsightly patches? "The best way to fix this is by overseeding,” advises Zaber.

“Overseeding is a practice of spreading grass seed onto an already existing lawn to thicken it and give it that healthy, green appearance. Start by mowing, then scarifying and aerating the soil.

“Then, spread the seed at a rate of 25 grams per square meter and add a light layer of topsoil on top. This will improve the seed-to-soil contact, which is critical for good germination rates, and also protect the seeds from being eaten by birds or blown away by wind.”

Bear in mind that you may need a period of two to four weeks for initial growth, though achieving a fully restored, and lush lawn can take up to six months.“Grass usually takes around 2-4 weeks to germinate, depending on the weather. However, to fully establish, it can take up to 6 months,” added Zaber.

For more top tips, check out how to tell if your lawn needs overseeding, especially if you want to maintain healthy grass all year round. Or if you just want a lush lawn, try these 11 secrets to a lawn that’s greener than your neighbor's.

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Every spring, my local gardening Facebook page starts filling up with countless pictures of three-leaved plants, each one framed with the same question: "Is this poison ivy?"

It's a legitimate concern. Poison ivy is not only invasive, but can cause a severe allergic reaction if you get its oils on your skin. I've had more than enough rashes over the course of my life to look askance at any plant that even remotely resembles poison ivy.

Rather than post something on my local social network and wait for would-be horticulturists to reply, I've started using a new Google Gemini feature on my phone to find out more quickly if the plant I'm about to grab will leave me itching and scratching.

Here's how you can use Gemini to identify poison ivy (or any other plant, for that matter), works on both Android and iOS devices, and it takes just seconds.

Using Google Lens to identify plants isn't exactly the newest thing around, but as I've been going around my yard pulling plants, I've found it to be helpful in avoiding poison ivy. I have several other types of ivy and three-leaved plants, so it's been very useful while weeding. It's also come in handy if I'm out for a hike, and come across a new tree or shrub I haven't seen before.

So, just like Grampa's Weeder, this has become yet another important tool in my gardening kit.

More from Tom's Guide

• This Stihl hand pruner has been so popular with my neighbors that one of them is buying it for her husband for Father’s Day
• How to double your tomato harvest — the 3-step pruning system for massive yields
• Stop your hydrangea blooms from turning brown too early with these 3 top tips

There’s nothing quite like the taste of homegrown tomatoes — freshly picked off the vine and straight into your tasty meals. Even though these crops are the easiest to grow, it can be disappointing when your harvest lacks the punchy, vibrant flavor you hoped for.

In fact, this once happened to me, and it was such a let-down, especially after all my hard efforts. This time around, however, I’ve reached out to professional gardeners to uncover why this happens and to give me their top tips for ensuring a flavorsome crop.

So, if you don’t want to end up with a disappointing harvest, here are the three essential factors that determine whether your tomatoes will be packed with tasty flavor.

1. Choose the right variety

One key factor behind your bland tomato harvest could be the variety you’re growing. According to experts, you can choose certain varieties based not only on fruit size and color, but also on certain flavors. Some tomatoes are simply not as flavorful as others.

“The variety of tomato can determine flavor,” states Jessica Mercer, Ph.D. Horticulturist at Plant Addicts. “Some tomatoes are bred for shipping ease, firmness, disease resistance, or high yield.

"Others, like cherry tomatoes, grape tomatoes, and many heirlooms, are known for good sugar-acid balance and aroma.”

Before picking out your plants to grow, it is worth considering your preferred taste/flavor and researching which specific varieties match your desired taste profile. That should hopefully save you a lot of disappointment when these are ready for the picking.

For more planting tips, check out Tom's Guide to tomatoes for everything you need to know about growing a juicy harvest.

2. Let your tomatoes soak up the sun

Tomatoes are sun-loving plants and need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to help them produce more fruit. Without adequate sunshine, plants struggle to photosynthesize and produce complex sugars and acids in the fruit. This essentially gives our tomato crop their tasty flavor.

"Think of the sun like a solar panel for homegrown tomato flavor — it gives them the fuel and energy they need to perform their best,” adds Corinne Beirne, gardening coach and founder of The Nourished Garden.

“Letting them ripen on the vine versus ripening them on your windowsill will maximize taste too, especially after they've been sitting in the sun for a while without too much water before a harvest." What’s more, low-light conditions are known to cause watery, bland fruit that lacks sweetness.

In addition, knowing when the right time to pick your tomatoes is can make all the difference. “For optimal flavor, tomatoes should be harvested at the right time,” adds Mercer. “Pick when the fruit has started to turn its mature color and pulls easily from the vine.

“Finish ripening it at room temperature. Tomatoes picked too early may not develop as much flavor as fruit that ripened longer on the plant.”

3. Avoid overwatering your tomatoes

While the summer heat might tempt you to reach for the hose more often, overwatering or saturating your tomato crop can actually dilute its final taste and flavor. The general rule of thumb is to water only when the top two inches of soil start to dry.

“Too much water, particularly when fruit is ripening, can dilute the sugars and acids that give tomatoes their flavor,” explains Mercer. “Water deeply and consistently when the top inch or two of soil begins to dry. Check the soil for dryness before watering again.” What’s more, overwatering tomatoes, especially before a harvest, can make a real difference to their sweetness.

Plus, you’ll want to ensure your soil is kept in a healthy condition, free from disease or root rot, often triggered by overwatering. You can also add a rich, organic fertilizer like a good fish fertilizer. This is because fish contains all the essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are all needed for healthy growth.

"I like to use a good organic fish fertilizer like Neptune's because it nourishes both the plant and the soil without being too harsh,” suggests Beirne.

“Healthy, nutritious soil provides the right conditions for the plant to produce the most flavorful fruit."

For more top tips, check out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

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• How often should you water tomato plants and when should you do it?
• 3 ways to tell that your tomatoes are ready to harvest
• 7 ways to increase the yield from your tomato plants

As the warmer weather arrives, there is nothing quite like seeing hydrangeas ready to showcase their vibrant blooms for the summer.

And with their bright blooms of blue hues, white, and pinks, hydrangeas can instantly add a splash of color to a backyard or porch plant. That’s why it can be disheartening when you start to see them turning brown too early.

Of course, once these colorful displays have finished their summer show, the dried flowers make a stunning addition to autumnal floral decor — but you don’t want that during the summer!

So if you’re wondering why your hydrangea blooms are turning brown so early, here's the reasons why and how to prevent it.

Not watering enough

Typically, hydrangeas are ‘thirsty’ plants, and once the soil dries out completely they can droop, with leaves wilting, blooms browning and generally looking worse for wear.

As a rule of thumb, established hydrangeas need roughly one inch of water weekly to thrive, aiming for a deep soaking once every 5 to 7 days. While newly planted hydrangeas should be watered a few times a week (around three inches) to help them get started and grow healthily.

Another top tip is to avoid overhead sprinklers with hand-watering, drip irrigation or hoses being the better option. This ensures that water is given low and slow so that it gets to the roots better. For best results, aim to water during the early morning hours; this allows any moisture that splashes onto the petals to evaporate quickly before the day heats up.

Too much direct sunlight

Another reason for your hydrangeas' browning blooms is direct sunlight, as they can’t cope with scorching heat. Similar to ourselves basking in the sun for too long, this can often cause sunburn and cause blooms to turn brown too early. This is particularly the case for big-leaf varieties.

In fact, your hydrangea will thrive better in morning sunlight (before the temperatures start to rise during the day) or afternoon shade.

.To prevent brown blooms, it’s best to either transplant your hydrangea plants to a more shaded location in your yard or consider adding companion plants that can provide afternoon shade.

In addition, you can keep plants cool by applying a layer of mulch around the base to keep the soil cool in the summer. Simply add a two-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help retain moisture, and it also helps to keep weed growth at bay.

Soil isn’t balanced

Furthermore, it is vital to ensure your soil pH is correctly balanced. A common mistake is to overfertilize our plants, especially when we notice our hydrangeas are starting to look a bit worse for wear.

If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it can cause flowers to turn brown prematurely. This is mainly due to a build-up of salt in the soil that can affect healthy growth and bigger blooms.

This is why it is always recommended to test your soil first, as adding more fertilizer without checking can often lead to further issues.

Another rather unusual hack is to perk up your hydrangeas with coffee grounds. Thanks to its slightly acidic quality and high carbon content, coffee grounds are beneficial to plants, contributing organic matter to the soil.

In addition, they also contain nitrogen, which is essential in the spring for promoting bigger flowers and strong stems.

Simply add around a tablespoon of coffee grounds into a spray bottle or watering can to make a weak ‘tea’. Then water your hydrangeas with the weak brew once a month until summer arrives. This is why gardeners are being urged to use old coffee grounds to feed hydrangeas now, just in time for the summer.

So, if you notice your hydrangea blooms are beginning to discolor, there is still time to revitalize them so they can finish the summer looking their very best.

For more top tips, check out how to grow hydrangeas from cuttings and avoid these hydrangea pruning mistakes. Knowing how to prune hydrangeas can keep this beautiful plant in check for spring and future seasons.

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• How to prune hydrangeas and when you should do it
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What DIY dad doesn’t love a chainsaw? There’s something about owning a power tool that can dismember with the ability to dismember you that brings a little extra excitement to your outdoor chores.

But, there’s a lot of times when even the smallest chainsaw is overkill. You don’t want to look like a horror movie villain just to prune a couple of branches. For the past few months, I’ve been testing the Stihl GTA 30, an electrical pruner that’s perfect for those times when a chainsaw is too much, but a pair of loppers isn’t nearly enough. And, it’s made some of my yardwork so much easier.

The GTA 30 is basically a mini-chainsaw; it has just a 6-inch blade, and is small and light enough that you can use it one-handed. Despite its smaller size compared to even a small chainsaw, I was able to easily cut through 4-inch branches. And, because it can be used with just one hand, I was able to use my other hand to pull aside branches that were in the way.

For example, I had to remove a bush that died, but was inconveniently wedged in between two others; I was able to hold branches in one hand while I used the GTA 30 to work my way down to the base, where it sliced through the trunk like butter.

The GTA 30, which is new for this year, is an upgraded (and more expensive) version of the GTA 26. The GTA 30 has a 6-inch bar and two batteries, where the GTA 26 has a 4-inch bar and a single battery slot.

The GTA 26 kit, which includes the saw, a battery, and a charger, costs $199; the GTA 30 kit, which has the saw, two batteries, and a charger, costs $329. I suspect most will be able to use the GTA 26 just fine, but it is nice to have the longer battery charge and reach of the GTA 30.

Cleverly, the GTA 30 is designed to be used by either righties or lefties; there’s a safety switch on either side that you have to hold down with your thumb before you can pull the trigger. It's a small detail, but a nice one.

Two batteries slot into the handle of the GTA 30, and there’s a small battery indicator further up; I didn’t time it, but I cut a lot of branches before I had to recharge the batteries.

Adjusting the tension on the saw chain was pretty simple, too. You just unlock and turn a small knob on the side of the saw to remove the protective cover, and then you can move the bar around easily to get the tension that you need.

I quickly ran out of things to prune in my yard, so I lent it to my neighbors, who quickly put it to use cutting down privets and other low-hanging branches. They all found it dead simple to use.

Perhaps the greatest validation came when one of them sent me a text, asking for its name, so that she could surprise her husband on Father’s Day. Hopefully he doesn’t read this until then. Hopefully he likes it just as much as I do!

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• I tried a new method to clean my pruning shears — here's why it can't beat my time-honored routine
• Best pruning shears: Tested and rated
• 5 hydrangea pruning mistakes you need to avoid

Now that warmer temperatures are upon us, we’re not the only ones who will be feeling the heat. Our lush lawns and plants are also parched from the heat wave, and when there are no signs of rain anytime soon, it’s not uncommon for us to increase our watering routine.

Besides knowing the best time to water your lawn, you’ll also need to know how to water your yard the right way. In fact, this can make all the difference in maintaining healthy growth. What’s more, you could be wasting water (and effort) — literally pouring money down the drain.

A gardening expert has warned of this one common watering habit we often make when watering our yards. In fact, you could be inadvertently killing your plants instead.

So before you unreel your hose or set your sprinklers, don’t make this common mistake this summer.

Don't just water the surface of the soil

According to experts, it’s not the amount of water that will make your plants thrive during summer — it’s how you water. Most often, we only sprinkle the top layer of the soil and do not allow the roots to get a proper ‘drink’.

“One of the most common mistakes I see is frequent shallow watering,” states Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and Horticultural Advisor to Platinum Spas.

“A quick sprinkle may dampen the surface of the soil, but it rarely reaches the roots where plants actually need moisture. In hot weather, much of that water can simply evaporate before it has any real benefit.”

So what’s the best method to water our yard and ensure it’s getting the right amount of hydration? “Instead, gardeners should focus on watering deeply and thoroughly at the base of the plant. The aim is always to get moisture down to the root zone.

“This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, creating stronger and more resilient plants that are better equipped to cope with dry periods.”

Additionally, experts suggest that your lawn soil should be moist 5 to 6 inches beneath the surface — however, deep watering extends this to 7 to 8 inches deep. The idea behind deep watering is to encourage deep root growth, which keeps the roots cooler and stronger, protecting your lawn during heat stress.

For more top tips on watering your lawn, check out how to water a thirsty lawn in a heatwave — lawn experts reveal all.

Avoid watering little and often

Similarly, gardeners often fall into the trap of watering little and often during the hot summer months. However, this habit can literally kill your plants, causing the roots to stay near the surface, where they are prone to drying out rapidly.

“Watering little and often can actually create weaker plants because the roots remain close to the surface where they dry out more quickly,” adds Mabey. “By watering deeply and consistently, you'll use water more efficiently while encouraging healthier growth.

“For containers and newly planted specimens, it's particularly important to monitor moisture levels during warm weather, as they can dry out much faster than established plants growing in the ground.”

So it’s always best to water your lawn and plants deeply and evenly during a heatwave. If you’re in doubt as to whether you’re giving your grass too much water, check out how often you should water your lawn in a heatwave.

Gardening watering essentials we love

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My plants have been looking a little weary lately. I'm tempted to blame the sunny weather, but I fear that I'm just not giving them the attention they need. So, I headed to social media to see if I could find a hack that would help me out (and not cost me a lot of money).

After lots of searching, I finally stumbled upon something I'd never heard of before – using matches to create my very own plant-boosting fertilizer. It's a staple of my messy kitchen drawer that I usually only pull out when I need to light a birthday candle. Suddenly, I'm looking at that little box of matches in a totally different light. Here's what happened when I followed the simple hack to help feed my plants.

How does it work?

YouTube creator, @creative_explained, has a page full of clever tips and tricks to use around your home that he shares with his almost 5 million subscribers (one of which is me). He taught me a clever potato peel hack to supercharge my garden that's saved me a bunch of money on fertilizer and he's even taught me how to clean a shower head with vinegar.

Sometimes, I like to head back into the archives on his page to see if there's any hacks I've missed and I was surprised by what I found. The video, featured above, reveals that you can feed your plants and give them a natural boost with just a box of matches and some water. Since I already have both those things in my home, I thought it was definitely worth a try – and it turns out it's really simple.

All you have to do is this:

• Put 5 to 10 matches into a container
• Fill the container with some water
• Wait for around an hour
• Give them a stir and use the pink water to pour onto your plants

He explains that by letting the matches soak in the water, it'll turn pink: "That's the phosphorous and sulfur being released into the water," he explains. "Pretty much what that means is that it's food for your plants! Phosphorous will help your plants grow these nice, healthy roots and sulfur will produce nice leafy greens."

But, while in the video you'll see him light the matches and let them burn, it turns out you don't want to do that – and I learned this first-hand when I tried it out.

Here's what happened when I tried it

As mentioned, I made the mistake of lighting the matches when I first gave this a try. I'd seen the flames that @creative_explained had lit on his video and hadn't quite paid full attention that it was just for show. Look a little closer and you'll find that the matches inside the water are still red-tipped and that's because he hasn't let them burn.

This is an important part of this hack because if you burn them, you're eliminating the phosphorous and sulfur that you need for the water to turn pink and nutritious for your plants. So, after a couple of failed attempts, I used the matches without letting them burn. Lesson learned.

I also thought I'd like to use a little more water than he demonstrates with to make sure I could feed the numerous plants around my home. So, I added 10 matches in one go to see if that would help infiltrate more water – and it did.

Now, I've only just started trying this new match-infused water trick on my plants, so it's hard to say whether it's making any difference yet. What I do know is that it was super simple to do, very affordable and I haven't seen any damaging effects to the plants.

So, I'm wiling to keep trying it out using my mom's 'Thirsty Thursday' routine in collaboration with the matches. Since it's so low-cost and quick, it's easy to play the long game and see if my plants get an extra boost. Either way, I feel like I'm creating potions and that's made remembering to water my plants a lot more fun, too.

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I spent months watching white mold fuzz creep across the soil of my favorite houseplants. I tried everything: better drainage, less water, moving them to brighter spots. Nothing worked. Then I discovered that cinnamon has antifungal properties and decided to try it.

A simple dusting of ground cinnamon from my kitchen cupboard cleared the mold completely and it hasn't come back. I was skeptical at first. How could a spice work where everything else failed? But the science is straightforward: cinnamon contains compounds that actively suppress the fungi causing the problem.

After testing it on seven houseplants, I can confirm it does the trick. Here's exactly how to do it.

Why cinnamon actually works

Cinnamon contains cinnamaldehyde and eugenol, which are natural compounds with proven antifungal properties. These chemicals create a hostile surface for the common molds that appear on houseplant soil, particularly Penicillium and Trichoderma, which show up as white or gray-green fuzz.

The key is that cinnamon works as a preventative layer, not a cure-all. It slows mold growth while you fix the underlying problem — usually overwatering or poor air circulation.

In my experience, once you address those issues and apply cinnamon, the mold doesn't return. I reapply lightly every month as a maintenance step, particularly on plants in shadier corners of my home where moisture lingers longer.

The mistakes I made (so you don't)

My first attempt failed because I applied cinnamon to wet soil. It trapped moisture and made things worse. Wait until the surface is completely dry before dusting.

I also used too much cinnamon initially, creating a thick layer that repelled water instead of letting it through. A light coating is all you need

Finally, I realized cinnamon alone wasn't enough. If your houseplant is in a dark corner with a saucer that stays wet constantly, cinnamon won't solve the problem. You have to fix the watering habits and light situation first. Cinnamon is the finishing touch, not the full solution.

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• I stopped making these 9 plant ‘care’ mistakes and now my plants are thriving
• This tiny pest causes the biggest damage to your plants — here's how to stop thrips
• Your succulent is dying of thirst every time you mist it — do this instead

With warmer temperatures, now is the time for seasonal pests to begin appearing inside homes. And if you’ve already spotted a trail of tiny insects invading your kitchen, you’ll probably be wondering how to get rid of ants for good.

While these critters are incredibly small, ants can become a real nuisance if not dealt with properly. Which is why it can come in handy to know what type of ant you’re dealing with so you can implement the right deterrent methods.

Although it’s hard to know exactly what ant species you have (without a magnifying glass), I asked the pest experts if there are certain visual clues to identify the most common ants that invade our homes. And more importantly, what’s the best way to deter them? So before you get out your trusted repellent solution, know who you’re up against first.

Common ants that can invade our homes

While there are several varieties, depending on your state and local climate, these are the more common ant species to look out for.

Odorous House Ants

These are those tiny black or brown ants commonly found nesting under floor heating, patios, or within the foundations of your home. Odorous house ants tend to have an oval body and are also known as ‘sugar ants’, since they are mostly in search of any sweet substance.

“These ants can invade in large numbers, nest in structures, and have many nests and multiple queens,” explains Scot Hodges, A.C.E. Certified Entomologist and VP of Professional Development at Arrow Exterminators. “Identifying them can be done by crushing a few and smelling them. They are said to emit a “rotten coconut” odor; however, most people have no perspective of what that smells like. They do emit a distinct odor, so if you crush a few of them and sense that.”

Still, pest experts warn you should never squash ants in your home, or else you could be inviting more ants to invade your home. So make it a daily habit to wipe down food spills and countertops immediately, and ensure you store your food correctly.

Carpenter Ants

These are much larger ants (6–12 mm) and typically black in color, although some have a red thorax. As the name suggests, these tunnel into wood and will chew through it extensively to make their nests. “Their size is a good indicator, as they are large ants — much larger than other ant species,” states Hodges.

“Finding a nest of large black ants in hollowed-out wood galleries is most likely carpenter ants. Unlike other species, Carpenter ants are also very active at night, so seeing large ants foraging at night is another indication.”

As far as damage goes, these are probably the worst kind of ant. And if you have an infestation in your home, you're at risk of serious structural damage. So it’s always best to take preventative steps to stop carpenter ants before they infest your home.

“Homeowners should be cautious of disturbing the mounds when doing yard tasks such as gardening or mowing the lawn,” adds James Copley, Chief Executive Officer of Copley Pest Solutions.

“The most effective way to treat carpenter ants is to find the nest and treat it directly with bait. Then, homeowners should remove the decaying wood. A professional should be called if the homeowner is not confident or wants to ensure full colony removal.”

Fire Ants

Typically, fire ants appear as bright reddish ants that sting and live mostly near grassy areas in mounds. So if you spot mounds in lawns, driveways, or in parks, this is a telltale sign of fire ants.

“These ants are reddish brown and their sting (can be painful),” adds Hodges. “Getting stung by one or multiple can be an easy way to identify them. Additionally, Fire Ants can be noticed outdoors from the earthen mounds they build in lawns, along driveways, patios, and walkways.

“They have been known to nest in structures, in which case they will bring dirt up into the structure to construct the nest.”

While these insects typically prefer the outdoors, they are drawn to cozy, warm, and hidden places, making a kitchen the ideal environment for them to seek food and shelter.

It’s worth noting that fire ants can be dangerous to people and pets because they tend to sting. And in some cases, it can cause severe allergic reactions similar to those from bee and wasp stings. So never attempt to handle a colony on your own; instead, contact professional pest control to tackle the situation safely.

Find out where the colony is coming from

To determine where ants are coming from, experts advise finding out where the colony is located, if possible. It could be coming from outdoors in your yard, lawn or somewhere inside the house.

“Try to track the ants to their outside colony and treat them there,” advises Gilbert. “Drench the colony with a high-quality liquid ant treatment — using a non-repellent pesticide is critical.

“If the colony is inside the house, then apply an ant-specific bait and liquid treatments where you see ants, being careful not to contaminate food surfaces or areas that children or pets frequent. Baits must be kept out of the reach of children and pets.”

Of course, if in doubt, always contact your local pest control service to find the colony and handle it safely.

Use bait traps carefully

Unlike using repellent sprays each time we spot a trail of ants, experts suggest that this is just a temporary fix and not really dealing with the colony. This is why bait traps are considered more effective as a permanent solution.

“Bait traps require patience; do not remove the traps too soon, and be sure to follow the directions on the packaging,” advises James Copley, Chief Executive Officer of Copley Pest Solutions.

“People often worry when they see more ants after placing bait traps, but that means that the traps are effectively attracting the ants. As much as it can distress homeowners when they see more of what they are trying to get rid of, you need worker ants to carry the bait back to the colony. Patience is best with bait traps; they are effective, and they will work.”

Maintain good sanitation and fix any leaks

Most ant species have one thing in common — food. And once they find sources of food and water, they will be back for more. "Many ants, such as one of the fire ant species, will invade homes for water, pet food, or scraps of human food left on floors, dirty dishes, or garbage cans,” states Bob Gilbert, MS, PHE, BCE, Board Certified Entomologist and Staff Entomologist at Blue Sky Pest Control.

“Eliminate moisture issues in the home, clean dishes and surfaces after meals, and seal pet foods in airtight containers. Feed cats and dogs at set times and remove dishes at night when ants are more likely to invade homes. Sanitation is key. Inspect your home with a critical eye and eliminate all sources of food."

You’ll want to ensure your kitchen or home is less inviting for tiny critters to camp in your home and take over.

More from Tom's Guide

• 9 things to consider before using pesticide in your yard
• How to get rid of wasps — and keep them away from your home
• 7 ant-repellent plants to keep your home pest-free

Gardening doesn't have to be complicated and it also doesn't have to be expensive. I say this because I'm constantly on the hunt for hacks that'll save me money from using potato peel to supercharge my garden to using old tea bags to help my roses thrive, both of which have seriously surprised me with the results. And during my most recent scrolling frenzy on social media, I stumbled upon a really clever idea.

I've always wanted to make a miniature garden without having to spend cash on planters and pots. I'm short on space, time and money, so the hack I found was perfect, especially as I have an abundance of succulents looking for a new place to live. What's even better about is that it uses a kitchen item I already had at home (and most likely you do too). For this one, all I needed was an old milk jug. So, instead of putting it in the recycling, here's what I did instead.

How does it work?

TikTok creator, @dumpsterbunny posts an eclectic mix of videos to her over 35k followers and amongst her hobbies, she shares her love of gardening. As featured above, she's even posted a hack where she takes an old milk jug and totally transforms it into a lovely miniature succulent garden. Thankfully, it's super simple to follow.

All you have to do is this:

• Cut an empty milk jug in half, just under the handle
• Take the lid off and turn the top half upside down and place it in the bottom half
• If not secure, cut two holes and use a zip-tie to secure the bottom half round the handle
• Add in small rocks to the bottom, add soil on top of that, and then add your miniature plants and/or succulents

In case you're wondering, the reason behind placing your milk jug upside down with the lid off is to create a drainage system for the bottom of your garden. And by placing the rocks down before the soil, you can prevent the soil from blocking the drainage hole underneath.

This creates a perfect environment to add whatever plants you like from ones you're propagating, to ones looking for a new home, or perhaps to create entirely new seed starters for spring.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I'm always keen to give hacks a try myself before suggesting them, just so I can make sure they actually turn out the way they've been described online. But, while I'm still in the process of propagating my succulents, for now I've only built my miniature garden pot from a milk jug and have yet to add in my plants.

I found this hack super simple and for some reason, my milk jug fit perfectly together, meaning I didn't need to use any zip-ties either. I'm mainly impressed with how it looks as I imagined the edges would be jagged from cutting it up. What I will do next though is decorate it to make it look a little more aesthetic among my other pots.

What I do know for certain is that it cost me absolutely zero dollars to create (apart from the milk, which I'd buy regardless). It also turned out to be a fun project that I could get my six-year-old involved with, too.

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• Supercharge your yard without spending a dime: 5 household items to repurpose right now
• This garden hack will help your plants thrive — and all you need to do is boil some eggs

Now that warmer weather is finally here, many households have already put their best grill to good use, or are getting ready to host those backyard cookouts (World Cup watch parties, anyone?). And if you prefer cooking with wood charcoal, don’t throw out your leftover ash after your feasts.

Surprisingly, wood charcoal ash is valuable to certain plants and will help to give them a healthy boost. And gardeners are sprinkling their ash leftovers as a great soil enhancer — effectively neutralizing soil pH while providing a powerhouse of essential nutrients, including potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium — that will help your garden thrive.

From herbs and juicy tomatoes to beautiful blooms such as roses, who knew that our smoky remnants would be liquid gold for our plants? Before you sprinkle ash into your soil, however, it’s recommended to do a test to check pH. This simple step identifies the current alkalinity levels and ensures you apply just the right amount to your plants.

In addition, avoid using wood ash around acid-loving varieties and never use it on delicate seedlings, in case it causes more harm than good! For best results, stick to plants that flourish in more alkaline environments.

So before you ditch your grill waste, put it to good use in the garden instead. Here are just a few of our favorite plants that will love your leftover charcoal ash.

Succulent strawberries

There’s nothing better than fresh, juicy strawberries, and if you want a bountiful harvest this summer, sprinkling grill ash can give them that much-needed boost.

Strawberries thrive in excellent drainage conditions, so adding wood ash to the compost (before planting) can significantly help to loosen soil and improve drainage — especially when dealing with heavy clay soil. Generally, strawberries prefer a soil pH between 5.5 and 7.0, which ranges from fairly acidic to mildly alkaline.

Tastier tomatoes

Another popular plant we all love growing here at Tom’s Guide is tomatoes. But did you know that wood ash can make a great fertilizer before planting tomato seedlings in a bed?

Similarly, tomatoes require loose, well-draining soil to grow healthy and in abundance. Adding ash around the plant bed, this can improve soil quality and add essential nutrients such as potassium that can help to prevent diseases such as blossom end rot. Again, before you sprinkle ash, always check the results of your soil tests since tomatoes are a delicate plant.

For more top tips, find out when to fertilize tomatoes: the 3-step schedule for a bountiful harvest.

Rosy roses

If you love roses or simply want to grow the perfect roses this summer, there are plenty of things to consider. More importantly, and depending on the variety, you’ll need the right soil pH level for them to thrive and stay healthy all season.

Typically, most rose varieties grow as perennials in Zones 5 to 11 and require a soil pH between 6.0 (slightly acidic) and 8.0 (alkaline). Depending on your soil test readings, you can repurpose your grill ash to amend the soil pH for your beautiful blooms — and get rid of nuisance pests too. This will help to ensure you have a healthy and vibrant rose garden to enjoy at all times.

Don't use just any grill ash!

While wood ash can certainly benefit your garden, it’s critical to remember that not every smoky remnant is good for the soil. To protect your garden's health, you should strictly avoid using leftovers from fatty briskets or any charcoal that required chemical lighter fluids, as these harmful additives can easily ruin your soil quality.

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With warmer temperatures here, our plants and gardens will also be feeling the heat this summer. And whether you’re a plant parent or growing veggies, it’s vital to keep up your watering schedule, or else your plants will be literally parched and end up dying.

Admittedly, I’m guilty of neglecting my watering schedule, mostly because I simply lack the time (or the energy) after a long day. That’s when I discovered this clever gardening essential that will water my flower beds naturally — without me having to lift a finger.

In fact, this method is a centuries-old water irrigation system that involves porous clay or terracotta pots. Best of all, it’s simple to use and won’t break the bank. So what are Ollas irrigation pots, and why are they my must-have tool?

What are Ollas irrigation pots and how do they work?

Ollas (pronounced ohh-yah) are porous earthenware, clay, or terracotta pots. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary clay pot with a bulb-like appearance. But the real game-changer is its ability to slowly release water into the soil and the roots of plants when it needs it.

In fact, this isn’t a clever new viral ‘hack’ — the Ollas water irrigation system was first used 4,000 years ago in China. You simply bury the terracotta ollas pot underground until its neck, fill it with water, and it will leach out water only when the soil gets dry. This is because the water is drawn out by osmosis, thanks to its porous material. What’s more, if the ground is wet, the water will remain in the olla, which means there is no risk of overwatering the soil. Impressive!

Not only does Ollas do the hard work for you, but encourages deeper root growth. For instance, if you just water the surface, this encourages roots upwards. However, deeper roots allow your plants or veggies to tap into moisture and nutrients deeper in the soil, and they can also stay cooler. Additionally, you can add liquid fertilizer to the Ollas if you want to give your roots a nutritional boost.

How I used Ollas in my yard

Ever since we started a DIY greenhouse and raised bed area, the real challenge is that the soil can often get dry quickly — especially with the temperatures rising.

Besides setting an alarm reminder on my phone, the ollas offer a much better way to water the new seeds or plants regularly. Best of all, setting it up is a breeze and only takes a few minutes of your time.

First, I dug a small hole in the soil to bury the olla, leaving 1-2 inches above the soil surface (with the neck out) to keep dirt and soil from getting inside.

Next, I packed the surrounding soil closely around the Ollas to prevent air pockets, as you want to ensure that the water can easily move into the soil and keep roots growing healthy.

I used a watering can to pour water in through the top before putting the lid on — then you simply leave it to do its work. The water will slowly leach out to provide essential hydration to the surrounding soil, keeping your thirsty plants quenched.

You'll need to refill your Ollas once or twice a week, depending on the water level, as you don’t want it to dry out. Also, if you have more than one Ollas, be sure to space them correctly — the general rule of thumb is every 2 – 3 feet in the yard for best irrigation. You can also buy various sizes to suit your outdoor space and even use in your pots or containers. Just remember where you've buried them all!

I still have yet to see how well my vegetable seeds will grow; however, this affordable water irrigation is a must-have for any gardener. Plus, it comes in handy as a self-watering pot while you’re on summer vacation too — which is a bonus.

More from Tom's Guide

• How to save water in your yard this summer
• 5 ways to keep your lawn healthy and green — without wasting water
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As the weather starts to warm up, it’s the perfect time to unwind in your backyard or outdoor sanctuary. What’s more, the brighter evenings mean you can host those summer gatherings well into sunset.

But what happens when your neighbor's hedge is too high and blocks out the natural light? Are there any legal restrictions? And what is the best way to tackle this?

Similar to knowing your legal rights for cutting your neighbors' overhanging bushes or painting shared fences, what are the rules for dealing with a neighbor’s high boundary hedge? This is especially the case when they refuse to maintain it, and it starts to become a nuisance.

Fortunately, we’ve called on the experts to weigh in on our legal rights, what steps to take, and best practices for approaching your neighbors directly. So if you want to avoid any neighborhood wars, read this first.

What are my legal rights if my neighbour's hedge is too high?

To establish whether you have any legal rights, this will depend on your local ordinances. Generally, this varies from state to state, so it’s important to check your city laws and codes.

“This is always going to be different depending on where you live, and there are likely to be some ordinances on the books that discuss hedges and their interference with your property,” states Edward Susolik. CEO & President, Managing Partner of Callahan & Blaine.

“What needs to be done is to show how the hedge is disrupting your life to give any merit to your complaint. Hedges are often zoned to be a maximum height, and that can also serve as the basis.”

“For instance, in California, there is a concept involving a spite fence, which means if a neighbor intentionally grows or keeps a hedge simply to annoy or hurt you, then it can be the basis for your claim. It’s that motive that matters.”

So what if your neighbor’s high hedge blocks natural light? While experts agree there is no general rule that would guarantee access to sunlight for homeowners, you may have a case if the hedge poses a danger.

“If the hedge creates a safety hazard, damages homeowners' property, overruns the border line between properties, or violates local code, there are more possibilities to do something about it,” explains Ashley James, Virginia Real Estate Investor and founder of TrueVision Homes.

“You need to know your local codes and laws, so it's better to contact an experienced real estate lawyer in case of need.”

Additionally, it’s useful to check the boundary lines, which can be done by a professional surveyor. Similar to overhanging branches, when that hedge is creeping over into your property, you are usually allowed to trim it away, but you need to stop once you reach your line.

Politely speak to your neighbor

Of course, the best approach is to avoid any legal disputes altogether. And experts recommend politely speaking to your neighbor about how their overgrown hedge is affecting your property or yard.

“We always want to be friends with our neighbors for our peace of mind,” agrees Johana Williams, property expert and regional manager for Utopia Management San Diego.

“I would highly recommend amicably settling the matter by talking it over face-to-face first. Politely explain that the shadow blocks the sun from reaching your favorite room or vegetable garden, which stops your vegetables from growing.

“Many homeowners don’t realize this and are usually more than kind enough to trim the hedge once they know it’s causing a problem.”

Additionally, if your neighbour ignores your concerns or proves to be uncooperative, experts advise documenting everything with dates and timestamps, in case it needs to be escalated.

“Dating the proof you have with timestamps and taking different angles of images should also be done early, with the hope that you won’t need it after that friendly chat,” adds Susolik.

“Following up with your neighbor through text or email also confirms that this conversation between you both happened. Local enforcers may need to come in, or you may need to have things mediated, and I think that’s best before jumping to the most extreme response of a suit.

"You don’t want a years-long battle that no one can easily win because neither of you thought to keep track of things early on in the dispute.”

Generally, maintaining good relations with your neighbors' can be favorable and will get you the best outcome. Or maybe you could extend an offer to assist with the maintenance of the hedge? Just be mindful of these top mistakes when trimming a hedge, as you don't want any more issues to contend with!

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Whether you’re a keen gardener or prefer to be eco-friendly with your kitchen food waste, composting is a brilliant way to turn organic matter into nutrient-rich soil to feed our gardens and improve lawncare. Not to mention, saving you a fortune on buying bags of compost from your local gardening center!

And while there are plenty of organic scraps we can recycle to make compost at home, such as eggshells and used coffee grounds, there is one lesser-known food scrap that can make all the difference — corn husks.

According to experts, corn husks and silks are rich in carbon and can add the essential ‘brown’ layers to your compost heap. In addition, shredding these scraps into smaller fragments will improve aeration and help regulate soil temperatures. This also helps to retain vital moisture and suppress pesky weeds, which essentially boosts your soil with organic matter as it slowly breaks down throughout the summer.

So before you throw out your corn husks and silks, recycle them to keep your garden and plants healthy. Here’s how.

How to use corn husks in your compost

Typically, compost needs a 3:1 ratio of brown (carbon-rich) and green (nitrogen-rich) materials to create healthy soil. So for composting corn husks, both green and brown varieties are suitable — the latter are typically those left on the ears to protect seeds during harvest.

It’s recommended to chop up or shred corn husks and silks into smaller pieces before adding them to your compost pile to encourage faster decomposition.

What’s more, this varied mix of textures encourages quicker breakdown into the soil, boosting it with nutrient-rich organic matter — which is always a welcome bonus for any gardener.

So what about leftover corn cobs? While these can go on the pile, cobs will take longer than composting corn husks. However, cobs do have their benefits as they offer air pockets in the compost heap. This will help to speed up the decomposition process by giving it the oxygen it needs to quickly break down.

The secret weapon for easier composting (get a tumbler bin)

Although there are various compost bins and containers on the market, you’ll need the right compost bin suitable for your outdoor space. And if you want to make composting a breeze or have a smaller yard, a compost tumbler is ideal.

Compost tumblers are super easy to use and feature chambers to add and remove compost, and aeration holes allowing air each time you turn it. This is especially useful since composting involves turning it over now and again to allow air to all parts.

All you’ll need to do is close the chambers and use the crank handle to rotate the bin five or six times every two to three days. Compared to standard compost bins where you’ll need to stir matter around with a garden fork or spade, this makes light work of a tiresome chore.

Before you do though, don’t make these 7 composting mistakes to avoid.

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Thrips are so small you can barely see them without magnification. At less than 1mm long, they're barely visible to the naked eye. Yet they cause damage so obvious you can't miss it.

The frustrating part is identifying what's causing the damage because thrips hide between petals and under leaves where you can't easily spot them. By the time you realize something's wrong with your plants, thrips have already established themselves. They feed continuously, suck out plant tissue, and reproduce quickly.

Catching thrips early makes them manageable. The challenge is knowing what you're looking for and acting fast before populations explode. Here's how to identify thrips and eliminate them before they wreck your garden.

How to identify thrips before they cause major damage

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I tend to prioritize the chores inside of my home over my garden because it's just easier to ignore. But when spring and summer roll around, I'm suddenly outside trying to enjoy my garden and I realize I've let it turn into a bit of a mess. To offset this problem, I seek out hacks like the '70/30 rule' and the '30-minute garden reset' to fix my issues in the quickest way possible.

I want to enjoy my outside space, but that doesn't mean I have more time in my day to tackle the gardening on top of everything else. Don't get me wrong though, I love my garden. I just don't love having to maintain it in the colder months.

Thankfully, I've found another hack and this one has me performing an evening routine in my garden, similar to the 'wind-down rule' where I put my house to bed by performing simple tasks like washing up and doing a quick declutter. Now, I've been venturing into the garden to do the same there. Here's why it works so well.

How does it work?

#GardenTok is full of creators eager to share their gardening tips and tricks and it's also where I end up finding a lot of the hacks that I use on a regular basis. A recent scroll took me down the rabbit hole of garden 'evening routines' where creators like @describingolivia, featured above, take time each evening to perform some simple tasks in their garden ahead of the next day.

These tasks, as Olivia explains, include watering the plants, sweeping the patio, putting furniture away and any other chores like cleaning up the grill.

But, why the evening? Well, it marks the end of the day meaning you're unlikely to spend any more time in the garden. It's also considered a better time to water your plants because the weather is cooler, but you still have to be careful not to overwater as it may leave your plants damp overnight.

Here's what happened when I tried it

While I'm not sure how long Olivia spends on her 'night-time routine' for her garden each day, other creators have suggested they carry out 45-minutes or 30-minutes of work.

For me, that's not the kind of time I have to spare. I was eager for something even quicker and decided to set a timer for just 10 minutes to see what I could get done – and it turns out that was plenty of time for some easy reset jobs.

I went on a hunt for any mess that needed tidying up armed with my pruning shears to snip off any deadheads. Then, I went around with my watering can to freshen up the plants with a light water (from the base, not the leaves to prevent fungal diseases from damp).

The same way that I declutter and wipe down surfaces at night to make my home feel fresher every morning, I realized I was achieving the same for my garden. Now, I'm enjoying my outdoor space a lot more as soon as the sun rises where I get to see my efforts from the evening before in full bloom.

It's definitely something I'll keep doing, especially since I don't really have an excuse not to head out there for just 10 minutes. I'll even get outside quickly as the dinner's cooking.

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If you’re wondering: "why is my strawberry plant drooping?", you aren't alone.

This is the most common cry for help from backyard gardeners, and it usually comes down to five culprits. A wilting strawberry plant doesn't mean it’s time to give up, it just means something is off. The real challenge is playing detective to figure out what.

Overwatering causes the same drooping as underwatering. Fungal diseases mimic pest damage. Weather stress looks like disease stress. But each problem has different warning signs if you know where to look.

Catch the issue early and your plant bounces back. Wait too long and you lose the harvest. Here's how to identify what's actually happening and fix it fast.

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Nothing beats the taste of juicy, homegrown tomatoes, and I love the thought of picking straight from the vine to use in your delicious cooking. Whether you grow tomatoes from seeds or in pots, it’s by far a cost-effective way to cut down your grocery bills.

Although tomatoes are considered one of the easiest plants to grow, the biggest challenge is maintaining a healthy harvest throughout the year. And while I’ve come across so many hacks and viral tomato growing tips (from kitchen scraps to baking soda), I just discovered the most surprising one yet.

What’s more, this household item can be commonly found in our fridges, and costs a fraction less than shop-bought fertilizers.

You may not believe it, but using milk is a lesser-known hack that every tomato plant grower should know about. Here's why.

Boost your tomatoes with milk

Milk isn't just a great source of calcium for people — it also offers a healthy boost to tomato plants. Additionally, milk contains proteins and nutrients such as magnesium, phosphorus, vitamin B and sugars that are beneficial for plants.

In fact, gardeners typically use milk to combat fungal diseases such as blossom-end rot, which causes dark, sunken spots on the bottom of fruit due to nutritional deficiencies and insufficient watering.

A simple spray of diluted milk onto the leaves or base of your tomato plants can provide a healthy boost. This clever tip essentially gives tomatoes extra calcium, supplying the additional nutrients your plants need. Plus, milk can improve overall soil health, creating microbial activity in garden beds, which, over time, contributes to a more balanced growing environment.

Just bear in mind that results can depend on soil conditions, climate, and the amount of milk applied. Avoid spraying too much, as you don’t want the odor to attract pests — leaving you with yet another issue to deal with.

How to make a milk feed for your tomatoes

Before you get your milk carton out of the fridge, it’s important that you dilute the milk with water before using on your plants.

To create a foliage spray, combine equal parts milk and water (a 50:50 solution) in a clean spray bottle, then apply the mixture directly to the tomato plant leaves.

This mixture should be absorbed; however, if you spot any residue on the leaves, you can either gently wipe them with a damp cloth or spray them with water.

For best results, spray in the morning on a sunny day. This will allow the leaves to dry quickly, and don’t forget to coat both the upper and underside of the leaf surfaces.

Alternatively, mix one cup of milk with 10 cups of water in a watering can or container to add to the soil itself. It’s recommended to wet the ground around the plants before applying your mixture.

Experts recommend treating your tomatoes with this milk solution every 10 to 14 days to fight off fungus and ensure they have enough calcium to prevent blossom end rot.

So if you want to get more out of your tomato plants this season, try giving them a milk boost to keep them healthy and juicier this season.

More from Tom's Guide

• Discover 7 ways to get more fruit from a tomato plant
• And how to grow tomatoes from seeds in 5 easy steps
• Plus, 11 things to do when overwintering tomatoes

I don't want to say I'm a lazy gardener, but I do really enjoy finding and using any shortcuts I can in order to maintain my outdoor space. From trying out the '70/30 rule' to giving the 'chaos gardening trend' a go, I've been pretty busy trying to transform my yard with a minimal amount of effort.

Most of the time, I feel like I'm simply adding to my already overwhelming chore list for inside my home with tasks to tackle outside. And with summer knocking on the door, it now seems I'm seriously running out of time.

Fortunately, interior designer Chris Catarino at Woodbury Furniture shared a really clever idea with me recently, just as the sun is beginning to really shine. It's called the '30-minute garden reset' and when I heard I only needed 30 minutes, I was desperate to give it a try. Thankfully, I was surprised by the results.

How does it work?

Every year when summer finally hits, it doesn't matter that I've been waiting desperately for the sunshine, I'm still totally unprepared when it does appear. But, what Catarino wants me (and you) to do with the '30-minute garden reset' is to make intentional, focused changes.

"You don't need a perfect garden to entertain," Catarino says (and I'm so relieved to hear it). "You need a well-thought-out one. Most outdoor spaces just need structure, clarity and a sense of intention to feel guest-ready in under 30 minutes."

So, no matter your plans, it feels like achieving a yard or patio you're proud of without having to spend loads of cash or work too hard is suddenly achievable.

Even better, Catarino breaks down the 30-minutes into three 10-minute blocks of defined, focused work to make following the process easier:

1. Remove visual distraction

In the first 10 minutes, Catarino says it's about streamlining the space: "Guests decide how a space feels within seconds. If there's clutter or visual noise, it immediately feels smaller and less inviting."

To achieve this, simply get rid of things that are occupying up too much space or cluttering your outdoors with no intention, like non-essential tools you could put in the shed or garage or toys that could be stored away when not in use.

2. Create instant structure

For the next 10 minutes, it's all about creating an area that is fit-for-purpose. If you're hosting friends, create spaces that are intentional for that. Catarino explains: "The biggest mistake people make is scattering furniture. A space feels more expensive and more inviting when it has a clear focus point."

This could simply be repositioning furniture into an area where people can sit together and chat, or moving seating to an area where people will feel like they can gather to eat food or have a drink. You'd create this outdoor space as purposefully as you'd do for inside your home.

Catarino adds: "You're essentially creating an outdoor 'room' in minutes. That sense of structure is what make a garden feel designed rather than accidental."

3. Add hospitality layers

And for the final 10 minutes of your 30-minute reset, it's about making your garden feel cozy and inviting with extra touches. Catarino says: "Think about what a guest sees as they arrive. You don't need decoration, you need cues that the space is ready for them."

Your garden is already a space that offers something more than you could achieve inside your home with flowers and shrubs of varying colors and aesthetic. But, adding in a bit of intentional lighting or a table setup that adds style to your garden is something easily achieved in ten minutes.

Here's what happened when I tried it

I find it far too easy to look at my garden and just think about the maintenance of the plants and flowers. And while I don't think that's entirely wrong, I do think it distracts me from focusing on creating an inviting space for guests and for myself.

I have a patio area that's looking a little worse for wear. Apart from a corner sofa that I love, it hasn't got a lot else going for it and it's also become a little overwhelmed by discarded garden items finding a place to dry off or I've thrown there to get out of my sight.

For my '30-minute garden reset' then, I focused all my time on this area because I wanted to see how truly impactful my 30 minutes could be. It turns out, it's quite a lot.

Firstly, I removed all the items that didn't need to just be sitting there and the space felt lighter. Then, I added in a couple of garden chairs I'd had folded up in my shed that I'd forgotten to use, creating extra seating for guests and a more conversational atmosphere.

Finally, I grabbed a string of outdoor LED lights to string across the fence that the corner sofa backed onto. And that was all I needed to totally transform a space that was definitely being neglected. Now that part is done, suddenly my entire garden looks a lot nicer and it took me no time at all.

If you're not sure where to spend and save in the garden, you might be interested in Stop buying cheap garden soil and tools: An expert shares 3 essentials to splurge on (and 3 you don't have to).

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At Tom's Guide, we love tomatoes. Each year, we grow dozens of them in our yards and gardens, so we're always looking for ways to get more. We've put together these stories for you, based on our own experiences growing tomatoes, as well as expert advice from those who really know their stuff.

Planting tips

Fertilizing tips

Watering tips

Pruning tomatoes

Gardening essentials we love

Tomato diseases

Harvesting