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How to test my new camera?

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

My first digital camera was a real junker. The Toshiba PDR-2300 was, quite
literally, not as good as a disposable film camera.

I just bought a new Sony Cybershot DSC-P93A (5.1 mp, 3X optical zoom). I
would like to take some detailed technical shots so that I know what the
camera's limitations are before the return period expires. The only review
that I could find (from a source that I recognized) was at cnet.com. I
would like to ask the NG for some suggestions on some test shots.

Here are the specs:
http://esupport.sony.com/perl/mode [...] CP93&LOC=3

1. I have a good assortment of flowers to shoot. Which are the best colors
for testing?

2. Is black the best background?

3. The widest apertures are f 5.6 at wide angle (7.9 mm) and f 10 at tele.
(23.7 mm). Test one or both?

4. Shoot outdoors in shade / overcast, correct?

5. View on computer monitor with ACDSee, take the jpegs to a store for
printing, or glossy prints on an HP inkjet?

6. What is considered the standard magnification to look for defects in
focus and color borders?

7. Can I test for "noise"?

8. Which ISO to use: 100, 200, 400?

Maybe I'm trying to be too "scientific" here, but any suggestions would be
appreciated.

Alex

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

>7. Can I test for "noise"?

You'll find noise easily enough. Shoot at a high ISO in natural light.



> 2. Is black the best background?

You want to push your lens to the limit? Shoot a bird against the
daytime sky.

There's a lot of things you can test for. You can test the metering to
see how it behaves with a black background, a high-key background, a
gray card.

To test color, shoot a color test card under various light conditions.
To test focus and depth of field, shoot along a ruler.

To test barrel and vignette, shoot a brick wall straight on. To test
moiré, shoot window screens.

The results may vary substantially between f-stops and focal lengths.

Don't test *too* thoroughly, or eventually you'll see that it's all
folly, and you'll end up selling your high-end DSLR and lenses as you
move to large format film...

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

More tests:

Shoot a white wall out of focus at various ISOs to see noise.

Shoot a newspaper & examine the print at the center & corners at 100% or
more.

Branches against a sky, backlit to check for purple fringing (blooming
from small sensor/pixels) and chromatic aberration from lens design.

Strong edges at various angles, then zoom in 500% to see how many pixels
it takes to make the transition.

Colorful scenes to see how it handles various colors.

High contrast (and soft) backgrounds out of focus to evaluate the
out-of-focus bokeh quality.

But all this will just give you a headache unless you do the same tests
with two or more cameras and compare.


--
Paul Furman
http://www.edgehill.net/1
san francisco native plants

Reply to Anonymous
- 0 +

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Good suggestions, James -

How do I get the bird to stand still?

Where can I get the color test card?

Thanks a lot, James -

Alex (Just kidding about the bird)


"James Of Tucson" <james0tucson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116288650.867339.191970@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

>7. Can I test for "noise"?

You'll find noise easily enough. Shoot at a high ISO in natural light.



> 2. Is black the best background?

You want to push your lens to the limit? Shoot a bird against the
daytime sky.

There's a lot of things you can test for. You can test the metering to
see how it behaves with a black background, a high-key background, a
gray card.

To test color, shoot a color test card under various light conditions.
To test focus and depth of field, shoot along a ruler.

To test barrel and vignette, shoot a brick wall straight on. To test
moiré, shoot window screens.

The results may vary substantially between f-stops and focal lengths.

Don't test *too* thoroughly, or eventually you'll see that it's all
folly, and you'll end up selling your high-end DSLR and lenses as you
move to large format film...

Reply to alex
- 0 +

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Paul -

For the branches against a sky, does the sky need to be blue? Will overcast
/ hazy work?

Also "zoom in 500%"? That would make a Nikon on Kodachrome blush, wouldn't
it? In other words, can any 5.1 mp camera look decent at 500%? How many
pixels for transition are good / bad?

I think that you and James hit the nail on the head with the last sentence
of each of your posts (Re: "Overtesting" ). I already miss the quality and
ease of control of my old Olympus OM2n - but it ain't digital! Maybe one
day I will be able to afford a digital SLR.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, Paul!

Alex


"Paul Furman" <paul-@-edgehill.net> wrote in message
news:m_udnUPXK8pS0BTfRVn-hA@speakeasy.net...
| More tests:
|
| Shoot a white wall out of focus at various ISOs to see noise.
|
| Shoot a newspaper & examine the print at the center & corners at 100% or
| more.
|
| Branches against a sky, backlit to check for purple fringing (blooming
| from small sensor/pixels) and chromatic aberration from lens design.
|
| Strong edges at various angles, then zoom in 500% to see how many pixels
| it takes to make the transition.
|
| Colorful scenes to see how it handles various colors.
|
| High contrast (and soft) backgrounds out of focus to evaluate the
| out-of-focus bokeh quality.
|
| But all this will just give you a headache unless you do the same tests
| with two or more cameras and compare.
|
|
| --
| Paul Furman
| http://www.edgehill.net/1
| san francisco native plants

Reply to alex

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Alex wrote:

> Paul -
>
> For the branches against a sky, does the sky need to be blue? Will overcast
> / hazy work?


Hazy white sky is best.



>
> Also "zoom in 500%"? That would make a Nikon on Kodachrome blush, wouldn't
> it? In other words, can any 5.1 mp camera look decent at 500%? How many
> pixels for transition are good / bad?


Generally it's only going to be meaningful to compare side by side. It
will all look awfull at 500% zoom but you can count the pixels
transitioning across a change in color. I don't think any camera could
get straight from black to white without a gray row between but if it's
several gray rows that's not a good sign.



>
> I think that you and James hit the nail on the head with the last sentence
> of each of your posts (Re: "Overtesting" ). I already miss the quality and
> ease of control of my old Olympus OM2n - but it ain't digital! Maybe one
> day I will be able to afford a digital SLR.
>
> Thanks a lot for the suggestions, Paul!
>
> Alex
>
>
> "Paul Furman" <paul-@-edgehill.net> wrote in message
> news:m_udnUPXK8pS0BTfRVn-hA@speakeasy.net...
> | More tests:
> |
> | Shoot a white wall out of focus at various ISOs to see noise.
> |
> | Shoot a newspaper & examine the print at the center & corners at 100% or
> | more.
> |
> | Branches against a sky, backlit to check for purple fringing (blooming
> | from small sensor/pixels) and chromatic aberration from lens design.
> |
> | Strong edges at various angles, then zoom in 500% to see how many pixels
> | it takes to make the transition.
> |
> | Colorful scenes to see how it handles various colors.
> |
> | High contrast (and soft) backgrounds out of focus to evaluate the
> | out-of-focus bokeh quality.
> |
> | But all this will just give you a headache unless you do the same tests
> | with two or more cameras and compare.
> |
> |
> | --
> | Paul Furman
> | http://www.edgehill.net/1
> | san francisco native plants
>
>

--
Paul Furman
http://www.edgehill.net/1
san francisco native plants

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

On Wed, 18 May 2005 17:06:41 GMT, Alex wrote:

> For the branches against a sky, does the sky need to be blue? Will overcast
> / hazy work?

It's not the color as much as having many fine branches showing
the effect of the transition from very dark to very bright.
Overcast might work, but probably not as well.


> Also "zoom in 500%"? That would make a Nikon on Kodachrome blush,
> wouldn't it? In other words, can any 5.1 mp camera look decent at 500%?
> How many pixels for transition are good / bad?

It's easier to spot flaws when you zoom in. Where would Sherlock
be without his magnifying glass? Some 5mp cameras will look better
than other 5mp cameras. If you don't zoom in, it's harder to see
which ones produce better and which ones poorer images.

Reply to Anonymous
- 0 +

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Transition pixels looked good (mostly 3, some 2s, some 4s) as long as the
exposure was good or slightly dark. But 1 stop over exposed, they jump to
6 - 7!

I see what you mean now. completely different evaluation techniques for
digital vs. film. I still need to try the branches.

Thanks again,

Alex


"Paul Furman" <paul-@-edgehill.net> wrote in message
news:iYSdnd07X_-mnBHfRVn-qQ@speakeasy.net...
| Alex wrote:
|
| > Paul -
| >
| > For the branches against a sky, does the sky need to be blue? Will
overcast
| > / hazy work?
|
|
| Hazy white sky is best.
|
|
|
| >
| > Also "zoom in 500%"? That would make a Nikon on Kodachrome blush,
wouldn't
| > it? In other words, can any 5.1 mp camera look decent at 500%? How
many
| > pixels for transition are good / bad?
|
|
| Generally it's only going to be meaningful to compare side by side. It
| will all look awfull at 500% zoom but you can count the pixels
| transitioning across a change in color. I don't think any camera could
| get straight from black to white without a gray row between but if it's
| several gray rows that's not a good sign.
|
|
|
| >
| > I think that you and James hit the nail on the head with the last
sentence
| > of each of your posts (Re: "Overtesting" ). I already miss the quality
and
| > ease of control of my old Olympus OM2n - but it ain't digital! Maybe
one
| > day I will be able to afford a digital SLR.
| >
| > Thanks a lot for the suggestions, Paul!
| >
| > Alex
| >
| >
| > "Paul Furman" <paul-@-edgehill.net> wrote in message
| > news:m_udnUPXK8pS0BTfRVn-hA@speakeasy.net...
| > | More tests:
| > |
| > | Shoot a white wall out of focus at various ISOs to see noise.
| > |
| > | Shoot a newspaper & examine the print at the center & corners at 100%
or
| > | more.
| > |
| > | Branches against a sky, backlit to check for purple fringing (blooming
| > | from small sensor/pixels) and chromatic aberration from lens design.
| > |
| > | Strong edges at various angles, then zoom in 500% to see how many
pixels
| > | it takes to make the transition.
| > |
| > | Colorful scenes to see how it handles various colors.
| > |
| > | High contrast (and soft) backgrounds out of focus to evaluate the
| > | out-of-focus bokeh quality.
| > |
| > | But all this will just give you a headache unless you do the same
tests
| > | with two or more cameras and compare.
| > |
| > |
| > | --
| > | Paul Furman
| > | http://www.edgehill.net/1
| > | san francisco native plants
| >
| >
|
| --
| Paul Furman
| http://www.edgehill.net/1
| san francisco native plants

Reply to alex
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