Tom's Guide > Forum > Homebuilt Systems > New System Build > *Guide to Choosing Parts*

*Guide to Choosing Parts*

Forum Homebuilt Systems : New System Build - *Guide to Choosing Parts*

TomsGuide.com: Over 800,000 questions and answers to address all your high-tech questions. Sign up now! Its free!
Page:    Previous 1 2 3 4 5 Next Bottom Search this thread
Word :    Username :           
 

A Guide to Choosing Computer Parts -By Proximon

This parts guide is intended to help most of the people who come to this forum asking what they should buy to build a computer. It's not intended to be a specific parts list, but rather the information you need to begin making informed decisions. It may seem like a lot of text. Well, there's a lot to know and I've tried to keep the size down and keep the language simple.

EVERYTHING on this guide is subject to change. It is up to date as of November 11th, 2009. :welcome:

Much of the information in this guide came from regular contributors to this forum, by way of discussions, arguments, and advice. It is all supported by research. More information comes from various tech sites across the internet, including this one. ( I always keep an eye on this board, and what you see here reflects the current ideas.)

Other General Guides
Homebuilt PC Buying Guide - jbakerlent
Skora's Index

When you are ready to make a post and ask for advice, please use THIS format.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Choosing a CPU
The very first decision you need to make is which processor to use. Intel has good CPUs in all categories, and AMD has good CPUs in several price points.
The fastest CPUs for the system builder are Intel. There is no debate here, it's been this way for some time now. If you last built a machine in 2005, this may come as a shock, but it's true.

Tom's Hardware now has this large and complete CPU guide stickied in the CPU section. I recommend you read it.


Overclocking
And while we are at it, I think I'll say a bit more on this subject. If you are building your own system, you should be planning to overclock. There, I said it, and it's true. There was a time, not so long ago, when this was best left to only the most knowledgeable and those with deep wallets. These days, it's only a very small step from designing and assembling your own PC, to overclocking it. The gains to be had are LARGE and the risk is far less than it once was. I have to say there is still some risk, or I'll get sued or at least hated... but there is more risk in just building your own computer in general than overclocking it. There is also a certain amount of knowledge to be gained in the process, that will benefit the average user. See the note on the P55 boards though.

Quad Core vs. Dual Core
For most builds, quad core CPUs are now the norm. If you have a very low budget or very minimal needs, dual core is OK. I'm still using a fast dual core, and I assure you if I had a need to upgrade it would be done.... but if I were to build a fresh machine today, it would have a quad. Using a quad core now simply improves the longevity of the build.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Motherboard Chipset
We will now get into the specifics of motherboard choices. When we talk about motherboards, the first and most important thing (after CPU socket) is chipset. The chipset of the motherboard will determine how the board handles all the various parts that get plugged into it. If your CPU is the brain of the computer, the chipset is the spinal cord. So, we classify motherboards by the chipset on them. I use chipset in a broad way here, and it can include more than one chipset on the same board.

Advanced: Learning about the voltage regulation of a motherboard will take you a very long way in evaluating the quality of that board. For a truly masterful guide to this subject see this Hardware Secrets Article.

Intel CPU Boards
(in order of current new build popularity)

- Intel P55
This is the new chipset, supporting LGA 1156 processors (called both i5 and i7 in a confusing move by Intel). The cost of the motherboards are generally about the same as P45, and the least expensive processor is quite fast. This will now be the primary choice in new moderate or "mainstream" builds. These boards can support dual video cards of either the Nvidia or ATI type, but not all come with that ability. Suitable for most dual card setups, but if you are using for instance crossfire 5870s, you will want the X58 board.
WarningA quality issue has been identified related to the most popular maker of LGA 1156 sockets (Foxconn), used in almost all brands of P55 boards. This issue will mostly effect serious overclockers, not moderate overclockers or non-overclockers. Steps are being taken to eliminate this problem, but since it mostly effects only those who are "mis-using" the hardware there won't be any recalls forthcoming.

-Intel x58
The x58 supports LGA 1366 i7 quad core CPUs from Intel. like the P55, x58 boards can support BOTH SLI and crossfire. All x58 boards should support crossfire, and most will likely support SLI. You cannot use an x58 board with older CPUs. Cost is higher than a good LGA 1156 build by 1-200 bucks. Likewise for a top-end AMD build. However, that extra cash would be better spent on GPUs unless you have a large budget. If you use many programs coded for multiple cores, you may want to consider X58 for the upgrade path. Next year 6-core CPUs will become available for this board. Multiple expensive GPUs? Serious professional computing using 4 or more cores? This is probably your platform.

- Intel P45
Largely replaced by P55. Still, you might find some good deal for low budget Intel builds. Great OC ability and some boards have decent crossfire support. Some models use DDR3.

-Intel P43
Much the same as the P45. These boards will have slightly less OC ability, no crossfire, no virtualization support. If you will not overclock and just want a budget LGA 775 board, this is the line to look at.

-Intel G31
There are a few of these boards still in production, with more recent BIOS versions. For general computer usage on a tight budget they are quite good. They have basic onboard video, enough to type a word doc or surf the internet. Total platform expense makes AMD a better choice at this price point, usually.


nVidia boards
(750i, 780i, 790i, 980a, etc.)
I do not recommend any nVidia chipset boards at this time. Not for Intel or AMD builds. Those wishing to SLI should use X58.

And that's it. Just those Intel motherboards you need to consider, and probably just the P43/45, P55, and X58 make sense right now. Yes, there are many other chipsets but none of them are worth looking at in depth today.

AMD CPU Chipsets

Most of the modern AMD chipsets now come in an AM3 flavor - what that means is that the motherboards use DDR3 and ONLY AM3 CPUs can be used in them. This get's confusing and we really don't want to be confused, do we? For new AMD builds, you will probably want AM3 and DDR3 now, except in lower budget builds. Don't be confused by boards that SUPPORT AM3 CPUs but are really AM2+ boards.

AMD 790GX
This crossfire board is quite nice really. Good prices and performance, and it includes an onboard GPU that's very strong for onboard. The combination of graphics power and support for Phenom II make this board quite nice for the home user that needs something stable but not the fastest gaming experience. Think of it like the P45, only with onboard graphics as well. PCI-E 2.0 @ X8 in crossfire.
Oddly, AMD pushes this chipset as THE chipset to have currently, even though the 790FX is shown to be a bit faster. Perhaps it's because of cost, and AMD wants to be your BUDGET choice.

AMD 790X
Like the 790GX but without the onboard graphics. Very popular right now due to price and features.

AMD 790FX
A bit more pricey that the 790GX, this board will have more features but no onboard GPU. Most of the deluxe AM2+ or AM3 boards will fall into this category. PCI-E 2.0 @X16 in crossfire. Similar to an X48 board, but for AMD CPUs.

AMD 780G
This would be a budget choice. It's not the overclocker that the 790GX is, and doesn't bench quite as well. However, if the extra 20 US$ is going to be too much, it is not a bad choice at all. Does include a good onboard GPU, just like the 790GX.

AMD 785G
No large changes over 780G, but it's new and may support future CPUs better. Comes in both ATX and micro-ATX sizes and is budget friendly. Some increased onboard GPU functionality.

AMD 770
Don't let the prices for these boards fool you. They can be decent overclockers and come in both AM2+ and AM3 flavors. I do not have good benchmarks for them. They do not support true crossfire, but should run any single video card fine. They do NOT have onboard graphics.

AMD 760G
A basic board best suited for non-demanding usage. Very tight budgets may consider this. Onboard graphics adequate for office/surfing duties.


Other Motherboard Considerations

There is a lot more on a motherboard than the AMD or Intel chipset. Audio chips, SATA controllers, USB chips, heatsinks... it can be a long list.

Integrated graphics?
There are times when you just don't want a separate graphics card. Many computers just need to run office apps, or play a few movies occasionally. Fancy gaming video cards are not wanted. This is a good time to consider AMD actually. The 790GX chipset has the best onboard graphics and uses AMD CPUs. I will not cover this in detail here, as most of our visitors are building rigs that at least game occasionally. Ask us which onboard graphics motherboard is right for you, and we'll help. IF you are building a gaming rig with a 790GX, it's nice to have that backup GPU.

What about SLI?
SLI means running two or three Nvidia graphics cards linked for increased gaming performance.
Crossfire means running two or more ATI Radeon cards linked for gaming performance.
The best dual video card setups for LGA 775 OR AM2+ are currently crossfire. The Intel/AMD crossfire chipsets are also more stable than the nVidia SLI chipsets such as the 780i, which have been plagued with problems. If you really need an SLI board, I recommend x58 or P55 right now. See above.

Expansion slots?
This is important. It's a key part of planning out your computer. A large video card that is placed on some boards might block access to parts of the board you need. Two large video cards may make it impossible to install that sound card you want. Look at the expansion slots, imagine your cards and where they will be.

Ethernet?
All modern boards come with built-in wired networking ability. Only certain boards come with built-in wireless functionality, so you may need to buy a wireless add-in card. The onboard wired Ethernet will be all that most people need.

Sound?
See the sound card section below.

Ports?
Hey, there are all sorts of things that can be plugged into a motherboard. PATA, SATA, USB, eSATA, Firewire, the list goes on. Make sure you know what you need, and what you do not. Make sure you aren't paying extra just for some fancy port you will never use. Some people really do need 8 USB ports. Many of your ports are accessed in the back of the board, and some are internal.

(Continued in the next post)

Message quoted 2 times
Message edited by Proximon on 11-11-2009 at 01:56:18 AM
------------------------------ My Guide to choosing parts
A big list of recommended parts
Troubleshooting Guide w/links
Sponsored Links
Register or log in to remove.


Memory
Because of dropping DDR3 prices and rising DDR2 prices, you may now want to start a new build with DDR3, unless you are using an older AMD CPU for some reason. (or the PII 920 and 940, which are DDR2 only)
Timings, also referred to as latency, is more important than the frequency of the RAM. So for instance, DDR3 1333Mhz 7-7-7-20 would be better or equal to DDR3 1600Mhz 8-8-8-24.

P55 RAM
RAM for the i5/i7 LGA 1156 CPUs and MBs is purchased in pairs. It is DDR3 and needs to have a voltage at or below 1.65V.

X58 RAM
RAM for the i7 LGA 1366 CPUs and MBs is purchased in sets of 3. It is DDR3 and needs to have a voltage at or below 1.65V.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cases
With modern CPUs, chipsets, and video cards getting hotter, adequate cooling becomes more and more important. The biggest factor in a well cooled computer is not the CPU fan or the video card fan... it's the case itself and the fans moving air through it.

A good computer case is not, actually, one with lots of holes in it. It's a case with carefully placed holes with fans behind each hole, pushing air into the case or pulling it out. Ideally, air will be pulled into the lower part of the front of the case, and exhausted from the top and rear of the case. Picture the air moving through the case like a river.
Some cases seem to be quite successful using different methods of air cooling though, and hopefully more actual thermal tests will be done in the future.

Most builders will want a roomy case, to fit any potential part and to make building easy. Most "mid-tower" and "full tower" cases are roomy enough, but some can be too limiting. Pay close attention to the forward edge of the motherboard and how close it comes to the hard drives. Cable routing possibilities can also be crucial to the enthusiast that wants a nice looking build.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Power supplies
This is the most overlooked part of a computer build and the most important.
A computer power supply does far more than you think. It has to communicate with your motherboard to coordinate power needs. It has to adjust to varying power demands, all the while maintaining stable power in exactly the right amount. It has to do this in a range of temperaturers and over a long period of time.

* A cheap power supply can fail spectacularly taking your entire computer with it. Just don't buy ANY PSU without consulting the experts. *

Other features to look for in a PSU:
-Efficiency. This one is getting to be important, especially if you have to pay your own power bills. An 80% efficient PSU that needs to supply 400W will pull 500W at the wall. Also, the more efficient a PSU is, the cooler it runs. These PSUs generally have an "80 plus certification".
-Active PFC. An active PFC power supply is generally a good indicator of quality, although not complete. Active PFC units will have no input voltage selection switch, because they sense the input voltage and adjust automatically.
-Cable types and length. Many power supplies have difficulty reaching everything in the larger cases.
-Heat generated. Tied directly into quality and efficiency though, so it takes care of itself.
-Noise generated.

Generally, you and I can't say what a good power supply is. We do not have the knowledge or equipment to test PSUs properly. Most of the reviews written are done by people who do not have the knowledge or equipment to do it right. There are a very few places where you can get good reviews of computer power supplies.

JonnyGuru
HardOCP

If you still want to learn more about PSUs, you should start here.
This masterful PSU tutorial is worth an hour of your time also.

To see what the actual power draw a certain video card has, see this TH article. However, newer cards are not included.

How much power do you need? Less than you might think, but I strongly recommend you get more than you need. Here is a link to a PSU calculator:
PSU calculator
Buy your PSU like you buy your case. Plan on using it through 2-3 builds. Allow for plenty of margin.

I will say this about power supplies. If you are like many of us and will keep the same case for a while, don't buy your PSU to last a year. Buy one that will last 5-6 years, through about 3 builds.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CPU Cooling
Many of us hate the current stock Intel system of push-pins used to attach the CPU fan to the motherboard. The stock fan itself is actually decent, but the push-pins create uneven pressure or fail completely, often. If the budget is tight and you do not intend to overclock, by all means stay with the stock CPU fan. Otherwise get a top-rated CPU cooler, and one that does not use the push-pin system at all.
The AMD system still works very well.
Top CPU heatsinks.

Water Cooling
Your CPU, GPU, and even other parts of your computer can be cooled using a water system similar to what you might find in a car or motorcycle. There are advantages to this. Water cooling is more effective, allowing for better overclocks. It is usually quieter. It looks cool.
It requires a bit more knowledge and aptitude than PC assembly in general, and many simply feel it's too much work. If you are interested in learning more, there are many guides and parts recommendations HERE.

(Continued in the next post)


Message edited by Proximon on 11-03-2009 at 11:08:22 PM
------------------------------ My Guide to choosing parts
A big list of recommended parts
Troubleshooting Guide w/links
Reply to Proximon

Video Cards
This is covered very well and simply right here at TH, and I have little to add to this simple, direct write-up done every month:
TH Guide November '09
What this article does not address is the relative stability of the crossfire chipsets compared to current SLI chipsets. See the motherboard discussions for that.
Also not covered in the TH guide are more transitory deals and special overclocked cards that might be better choices for some.
See also this recent article covering performance of single and double GPUs. Also at that site you will find comparisons of 3-way and even 4-way GPU configs. They were done a while back now but still very good info.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sound Cards
With CPUs getting more powerful with more cores, and memory cheaper, the old argument of performance enhancement doesn't make as much sense. At one time using a PCI sound card such as a Soundblaster helped your computer run better while playing those demanding games such as Quake II :p

These days, onboard sound can be found on every motherboard you will buy. It works, and does not noticeably slow your computer. Occasionally it fails to work, just like other parts of your motherboard. Your motherboard will produce surround sound that will probably sound just as good to you as some fancy Audigy sound card.

Some folks have ears and brains wired a bit differently. They notice a difference in movies, games, and music when they use a modern sound card. These same people will have expensive 2.1, 5.1, or even 7.1 speaker systems.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hard Drives
There are many things to consider when picking a hard drive for your system. You may even need to decide if you want a traditional HD or one of the new Solid State Drives (SSDs).
Speed is important, but can be determined by many things. In traditional platter-based drives the platter density, the amount of built-in cache, the RPMs of the platters, the firmware, and other things could determine the speed. There is no telling without viewing benchmarks.
Then there is reliability and support. Many, many years ago (15 or so) I called a company about a hard drive that was clearly failing. 2 minutes later I was told a new drive was on the way. It arrived 3 days later with a return box for the old one. No questions asked, just respect. While that company probably does not have that level of service any more, they still get my business. Good thing they are still the most popular HD company ;)
Also, these days we worry about power consumption and heat generated. Another important factor.
Here is a brief simple page on hard drives: http://www.hard-drive-help.com/technology.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Optical Drives

In recent years, there has been a lack of solid testing done on DVD burners. Read speed on both CD and DVD, write speed on all types of media, and other factors need to be considered. Error handling varies as well. Some drives will choke horribly while playing a DVD movie that has a small scratch, while others barely stumble at all.
We have assumed that most drives were good these days, but a recent test at Maximum PC showed some significant differences.
Blu-ray burners are approaching affordability and will probably now be considered for higher end builds.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Monitors
The most popular monitors these days are widescreen LCDs. LCDs are easier on the eyes than the old CRTs, weigh less, and take up less space on the desk.
The resolution of your LCD monitor will determine to some degree how much video card power you need. You probably do not want to game on a 30" 2560 x 1600 monitor using an $80.00 video card. A GTX 280 is probably far too much card for a 15" monitor.

Many people are interested in the 22" or 24" widescreen monitors these days, as they provide good value. You can choose to buy one of the lower cost offerings, or pay a bit more for some good improvements in color, response, and contrast. NO good reviews are done on lower cost LCDs these days. There is a rather masterful article/thread in another forum that will give you far more than you need to know, or you can just skip down to the recommendations, which are quite good:
Anandtech's "The LCD Thread"

This has always been an item I preferred to buy locally. There is nothing like seeing a monitor in a shop, and being able to return it if there is something wrong. Shipping costs and such mean that you can actually pay less locally. So, if you can, get a list together of a few you would like and go hit the stores for them.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Well, that covers the important parts. Yes, there are more parts to think about, but nothing I needed to write up here. If you need specific parts recommendations, check my parts list linked below. :p


My personal big list of all the parts I currently like:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/269620-31-list

Tecmo34's list of parts, including complete builds at various price points


If you have a list like this let me know, and I'll link to it right here.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Assembly
Finally, I would like to provide a few links to help some of you learn how to assemble a PC correctly:

Here is a GOOD step-by-step. Really good. If you encounter anything in any other links that contradict this, THIS is the right one. Sadly, no pics:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_T [...] sembly#CPU

Driverheaven has a great guide up now with pictures:
http://www.driverheaven.net/articl [...] 2&pageid=1
The very nice case makes it look a bit too easy maybe, but it's a nice system using great parts.

Here is a tutorial with pictures that shows how to put together a cheap PC. All parts are cheap and you should NOT use the PSU they use:
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/f [...] s?page=0,1

This you tube video has some good points, and is done with fairly modern equipment, all new. The case he is using is a micro-ATX case from Antec:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdsUuWlhOvo

Finally, I have my own method for applying thermal paste to Heatpipe Direct Touch (HDT) coolers such as the Xigmatek or Sunbeam CCTF...

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/ [...] e-xigmatek


Message edited by Proximon on 11-09-2009 at 01:40:59 AM
------------------------------ My Guide to choosing parts
A big list of recommended parts
Troubleshooting Guide w/links
Reply to Proximon

hey i know a lot of people dont like nvidia mobos but if someone wanted to SLI what mobo would you suggest?

Reply to ilovebarny

Good point, I need to get to that. I don't have any solid recommendations right now, I'll have to do some research. Last I heard the whole 700 series was problematic.

Reply to Proximon

See, it's stuff like this that makes me not want to do SLI at all right now:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/mainb [...] _Year.html

Reply to Proximon

Edit: I withdraw my earlier comment.

I have to say this is looking like quite a nice guide.


Message edited by skywalker9952 on 11-27-2008 at 08:02:10 PM
Reply to skywalker9952
- 0 +

How exactly do you xfire on a P5Q-E? On newegg there is a black PCIE 4x, black 16x and blue 16x. I assume you but the 2 cards into the blue and black x16 slots.

Reply to omar954

That's correct. The two slots operate at x8/x8 when crossfired, limiting bandwidth slightly with very high end video cards or very high resolutions.
Some serious overclockers still argue for P45 as the first choice for crossfire. They point out that, for them, the extra overclocking makes up for any PCI-E bandwidth limitation. This is probably true, although for moderate overclocks the x48 works well.


Message edited by Proximon on 10-21-2008 at 09:46:56 AM
Reply to Proximon

The editing continues ;)

Reply to Proximon

WOW i just read that link you posted proximon, i had no idea. never heard that they were even considering pulling out of the business. but it makes sence cause arint the x58 mobo's supposed to support both SLI and Crossfire?

Reply to ilovebarny

Yeah not sure how that's going to work... just a rumor at this point.

I added an EVGA 780i as the SLI board. Seems the best bet with their superior support and warranties.

Reply to Proximon

Thanks for the info, Proximon, this thread is a big help to me.

Reply to johnlove
- 0 +

Proximon can we get this thread stuck to the top of the forums? It would save everyone hours in sorting out random builds.

Also it might be worth having a section on usful information:

- What usage?
- What budget?
- What screen size?
- Do you overclock?

Jeremy

Reply to jpdykes

If I get some feedback from some of the others here with good ideas, and flesh it out more, I'll lobby for a sticky. Your suggestions are good and I'll work on them tonight. :)

(note to self about sound card vs. onboard)


Message edited by Proximon on 10-22-2008 at 06:47:32 PM
Reply to Proximon
- 0 +

Other suggestions:

- Water cooling comment

- You haven't specified about integrated graphics, recently I designed a very budget build for a friend who doesn't game at all or do anything very much with the system integrated graphics are fine and kept the cost low.

- Comment re Intel's predicted price drop, I heard romours about the 19th?

- A link to some good posts about DDR2 RAM and the way it works in terms of matching bus speeds.
- Often asked "the bus on the Q6600 is 1066 so don't I need PC8500 RAM?"

If I come up with anything else I'll post again.

Jeremy

Reply to jpdykes

If I make it too big and complicated it will get skipped. Have to keep the size down but we'll squeeze in what we can and link what we can't.

I think we already have a good memory sticky... I'll link it.


Reply to Proximon

More work done. If this is getting to be too long I hope someone speaks up.

Reply to Proximon

I nominate for a sticky!!! Good work man.

Reply to roadrunner197069

Thanks RR, it's getting close to being ready I think. I wouldn't mind some opposing views, but I suppose most of it is not very controversial.

I was thinking if it was going to be stickied, we could make the second post just links to individual pick lists, so that you, aevm, Dirtmountain, and others could make lists too and not feel they had to compete with me.

I don't mean to be arrogant or anything, just trying to be efficient and helpful.

Reply to Proximon

Trust me if I seen anything abnormally wrong, I would of called you out. Sometimes ima ass lol.

Reply to roadrunner197069
- 0 +

Thanks for the good information.

Reply to ddc22

thank for good information
its usefull for me and each other,
but how about AMD system?
in this post why only intel build sistem?

Reply to krisna159

The majority of our readers will be advised to build Intel right now. Certain people with very small budgets and people looking for inexpensive office computers can use AMD builds, but for everyone else Intel makes more sense...

Having said that, and reading your English ;) It occurs to me that in some countries I have heard that AMD is more available and a better value than here. Maybe we should give it more attention for those people.

Honestly, I worry about beginners seeing this wall of text and never reading it. I'm afraid to add more words to this.

Edit: This information has certainly changed


Message edited by Proximon on 05-09-2009 at 12:11:50 AM
------------------------------ My Guide to choosing parts
A big list of recommended parts
Troubleshooting Guide w/links
Reply to Proximon
- 0 +

If you think it is too much text there should at least be a note telling people what information to post at the start - even if they don't read it then at least we have some idea of what to go on.

You could take out some of the detail and use a few more links to other forums.

Jeremy

Reply to jpdykes

If people are looking for a power supply to use on a gaming rig with nVidia SLi video card setups, you can find nVidia's own SLi-dedicated site that gives their listing of SLi certified power supplies.

http://www.slizone.com/

Then, just put your mouse over "Certified Products" at the top, then click on "Power Supplies" in the pop-up list that appears.

There you will find all the power supplies that nVidia has rated for use with specific SLi setups that you might be considering on a gaming PC.

Reply to jcknouse
- 0 +

Excellent thread. I certainly see nothing worthy of an argument. To niggle, I think the Coolermaster RC-690 is an outstanding case, but it usually gets mentioned in individual build threads. Another good place to buy (I've found good deals on CPUs) is Microcenter.com.
More trivial, you're missing an "L" in "spectacularLy" when describing the epic fail of cheap PSUs.
Your approach "This is how it is. Click here to learn why, or to learn more" is good, and can keep this shorter.

------------------------------ There is ALWAYS a drone. Exactly where, or how many drones you will encounter may vary, but that there will be at least one will not.
Reply to jtt283

I haven't had my hands on that case yet... mostly it's not on my list because I think it's ugly :)

That's why I would like to take my list and move it away and put in links in the second post for individual parts lists.... personal parts picks should not be piggy-backed on a general advice article.

Reply to Proximon

Awesome, Just Awesome. I am having a hell of a time with my Blue bomber build and if I had read this first I probably would have gone another way. Any good books covering hardware the people have found usefull?

Reply to toledo_speedo

It really all moves too fast for books any more.

It's even too fast for magazines, but I have found:

PC World
Maximum PC
CPU magazine

To be handy over the years.

Reply to Proximon

Is a retention bracket a huge deal. Im not familiar...

Reply to Dante Sly
- 0 +

A few things I noticed, the suggestion for 9800GT which is effectively a more pricey 8800GT (no differences other than the sticker on it), the Antec "Basiq" line sadly is just as bad as any other cheap PSU that explodes spectacularly, I never understood why they even tarnished their good name with it, the actual most commonly used P45 motherboard is the ASUS P5Q Pro (which crossfires and overclocks perfectly) just as the P5Q-E but is cheaper.

And the part about duals vs quads takes some discussion too but I'll leave that to the experts.

Reply to icyicy

I've used Antec Basiqs and have had great luck. They are supprisingly heavy with would point to quality.

Reply to roadrunner197069

icyicy wrote :

A few things I noticed, the suggestion for 9800GT which is effectively a more pricey 8800GT (no differences other than the sticker on it), the Antec "Basiq" line sadly is just as bad as any other cheap PSU that explodes spectacularly, I never understood why they even tarnished their good name with it, the actual most commonly used P45 motherboard is the ASUS P5Q Pro (which crossfires and overclocks perfectly) just as the P5Q-E but is cheaper.

And the part about duals vs quads takes some discussion too but I'll leave that to the experts.




The 9800GT at newegg starts at $120.00

The 8800GT is quickly disappearing, but I do see a few left, starting at $150.


I think the P5Q pro is a great board. I think if you wanted an inexpensive crossfire board, and didn't mind the slight performance hit compared to the x38/x48s, it would be good. The price difference is actually greater now than it was compared to the -E, so I need to put it in. Well, that didn't last long. $14 difference atm and another $15 with rebate.
The -E seems to me to be the better choice for overclockers or those concerned more with quality than price.

Once you get beyond the bling, I think the pictures of the two boards say alot:
http://www.asus.com/999/images/products/2269/2269_l.jpghttp://www.asus.com/999/images/products/2267/2267_l.jpg

The number of solid capacitors around the CPU indicate to me better regulation


Message edited by Proximon on 10-27-2008 at 10:03:28 AM
Reply to Proximon

Hey Proximon,

You helped me with building my first build 2 months ago. And I am happy with it. Building the pc turn me into a pc addict. I can't resist looking at hardware reviews and news everyday. I am not as much a noob as before I guess.

Anyway, I think you have to decide between 9800gt (AKA 8800gt) or the new hd 4830. I don't care what anyone says the 9800gt is definitely cheaper, sometimes as much as $25 with rebates. If you choose to recommend the hd 4830 over the 9800gt, you do risk seeming biased since you already recommended the hd 4850 and the hd 4870.

I like that you tried to compile something like this, but I don't think it is going to decrease the number of new build posts. And that is okay. Computer parts vary and sometimes people have specific questions, concerns or expectations for their new build.

And about the 8800gt prices. They are ridiculously expensive at newegg now.
For example, the EVGA 8800gt. I remember this being less than $120 two months ago, and now it is $165!!!!! It is a standard 8800gt, no overclock.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6814130318

Reply to HamitAltintop22

Yep and thanks :)

I was looking at benchmarks last night on the 4830. I can't recommend it just yet, because it's the same price as a 4850, or almost. When the price settles in a bit, it will likely replace the 9800GT.

Reply to Proximon

Some updates.

Reply to Proximon
- 0 +

Proximon - on the list of UK component retailers, list www.overclockers.co.uk

Me and my friends all regard it as the best in the uk and the only place where prices even resemble those in the U.S (you guys get it so cheap)

Reply to fruees

excellent guide Proximon, I am planning my first build and this has been hugely beneficial.

Reply to philip85

I love this guide its helped me loads.

Reply to mentalynuts

fruees wrote :

Proximon - on the list of UK component retailers, list www.overclockers.co.uk

Me and my friends all regard it as the best in the uk and the only place where prices even resemble those in the U.S (you guys get it so cheap)



Added, thanks!

Reply to Proximon
- 0 +

Proximon wrote :

This parts guide is intended to help most of the people who come to this forum asking what they should buy to build a computer. It's divided into two
sections. The first section is general advice about what currently works best and why. I have tried to format this section so that you can find what you
need and skip those parts that might be too technical.

The second section will be specific parts, and will include everything needed to assemble a computer.

Where to start?
The very first decision you need to make is which processor to use. For most of the people that come to these boards, the answer will be Intel. There
are a few cases where an AMD processor is called for, mostly at very specific price points. In general, my arguments for Intel are as follows:

- The fastest CPUs for the mainstream system builder are Intel. There is no debate here, it's been this way for some time now. If you last built a
machine in 2005, this may come as a shock, but it's true. The fastest AMD quad core is equivelant to a mid-range Intel quad. Choosing an affordable
Intel CPU now means that you will have good upgrade options next year. Choosing an equal priced AMD CPU now will mean very poor upgrade choices next
year, if any. Both makers are switching to a new CPU design, so you need to look at the viability of the socket you buy today, and Intel is a great
deal faster.

Specifically: Casting aside future CPUS, compare AMDs top quad core CPU, the 9950, with Intels Q6600. They are near the same price. They have very similar performance. You will have exactly two CPUs, supposedly coming out before the end of this year, that will be upgrades for the AMD. All reports are that they will be small upgrades. For the Intel Q6600, there are currently about 7 or 8 upgrades available for purchase. One of them is only a slight upgrade, while the rest are significant.

(Deneb, the next generation of AMD CPUs, supposedly will work on current motherboards... but rumors abound that the voltage needs of the new CPUs will make current AM2 socket boards obsolete... They are just rumors, but don't bank on compatibility.)


- Intel CPUs overclock far better than AMD. Some Intel CPUs almost seem underclocked. For example, an E8400 runs at a stock speed of 333mhz x9, or
3.0Ghz. By simply bumping the core speed, called Front Side bus (FSB) to 400mhz, most E8400s shipped will run stabily at 3.6Ghz. This is without any
major knowledge or gear needed. Keep in mind that the E8400 is already faster than any dual core AMD CPU at stock speeds, by quite some bit.

Quad Core vs. Dual Core
Dual core CPUs have been around for some time and are everywhere now. Quads are a bit more recent. Which is right for you? It can depend on a few things.
Firstly, most games and other major applications are not programmed to use quad cores. Efforts are being made to convince more gaming programmers to use multi-core programming. Intel and AMD are both concentrating more and more on multi-core processors. So, the shift is on towards quads and even more cores.

The NUMBER of programs you run at the same time, as well as the nature of those programs, will dictate whether you need a quad core CPU today or not. You might mistakenly believe that you do not multi-task, all the while having 20 or more programs filling up that system tray and bogging down your computer.

There are some people that like a very minimal computer. They do not load up the system tray and only do one or two things at a time. Most or all of their games will not use multiple cores. For those people (I am one) dual core CPUs make more sense today. The faster clock speeds of dual cores make for a better gaming experience in the bulk of current games, as long as the computer isn't busy processing other stuff. We would never dream of burning a DVD, downloading a movie, and playing TF2 all at the same time, it's just not in our nature. I'm guessing we are also the people that do not talk on our cell phones while driving, so we must be the minority :)

For the rest of you busy folks, quad cores may well be the way to go. Certainly CAD, Photoshop, video editing, MS Flight Sim, and other programs are obvious programs that pretty much mandate the purchase of a quad core CPU, or even the next gen Intel i7, which will have as many as 8 cores I believe.



Motherboard Chipset
Now that we have established that you are buying an Intel CPU, we need to look at the various options for a motherboard. Motherboards come in a wide
variety of brands and types, but we'll just list the ones you need to consider today. These are sorted by their most important feature, the chipset. The
chipset defines what CPUs the board can use, as well as many of it's features.

-P45
Perhaps the most popular chipset right now, this is considered the "mainstream" choice as opposed to "enthusiast." It tends to be a quality board with
good to excellent overclocking. It will accept up to 16Gb RAM, twice as much as the other chipsets. It can come with DDR3 RAM, but those motherboards
should be avoided as overpriced and useless. It can come with crossfire support (two ATI video cards working together) which is adequate for lower
resolutions. The crossfire feature in the P45 chipset is really best considered as a "just in case" upgrade path, for many reasons. Those who want to
buy two ATI cards up front for the performance should be looking at either a single faster GPU or the x38/x48 chipsets.

-P43
Much the same as the P45. These boards will have slightly less OC ability, no crossfire, no DDR3. If you will not overclock and just want a budget board, this is the line to look at. I favor the P45 boards for build quality, but if cash is tight the P43 chipset is the best choice.

-P35
This older chipset works well still. It's an adequate choice for those that are looking to just use one video card and do not need the latest CPU
support out of the box. Because it's an older chipset, it is less likely to work out of the box with a newer CPU, and require a BIOS update to work.
BIOS updates are always a bit of a dice roll - they can go bad no matter how careful you are, and when they do go bad they have a chance of destroying a
MB. So, always get the newer board when you can.

-x38
This is the older "enthusiast" chipset. It is not much different from it's successor, the x48. The same age rule applies to the x38 as the P35... but
the x38 is often far less expensive than the x48, so can be worth the slight risk. The x38 chipset will have crossfire support, at speeds slightly
better than the P45, but not quite as good as the x48.

-x48
This is really the top end for current Intel builds. It will have the fastest crossfire performance and good overclocking. The chipset is really the
same as the x38, however improvements in the manufacturing process have led to the improved speeds and overclocking of these boards.

And that's it. Just 5 types of motherboards you need to consider. Yes, there are many other chipsets but none of them are worth looking at in depth today.

What about integrated graphics?
There are times when you just don't want a separate graphics card. Many computers just need to run office apps, or play a few movies occasionally. Fancy gaming video cards are not wanted. This is a good time to consider AMD actually. The 790GX chipset has the best onboard graphics and uses AMD CPUs. I will not cover this in detail here, as most of our visitors are building rigs that at least game occasionally. Ask us which onboard graphics motherboard is right for you, and we'll help.

What about SLI?
The best dual video card setups are currently crossfire. The Intel crossfire chipsets are also more stable than the nVidia SLI chipsets, which have recently been plagued with problems. If you really need an SLI board, I think the EVGA 780i is a good choice. EVGA is a good company with great support, and you may need it. The price for the 790i boards is just too high in my opinion.

(NB: Very soon the new Intel CPUs will arrive along with the new motherboard chipset needed to run them. This will eventually make all these boards and CPUs obsolete of course, but you should be able to buy upgrades for another year for these boards.)

Memory
We are often asked here about DDR3. The quick answer is it's just not worth it. Using DDR3 does give small performance gains, noticeable only in
synthetic benchmarks. Let's say it would cost you $200.00 extra to buy a DDR3 motherboard and RAM, and let's say you got a .5% increase in performance. By putting that $200.00 into a faster CPU, you could improve performance by a good deal more... lets say a conservative 4%. So, by spending that money on a CPU upgrade you got 8 times the performance you got from the DDR3.

For an in-depth explanation of what memory your motherboard needs and how memory works look here.
In short, you can ignore the "memory standard" specification you see on DDR2 motherboards. Your CPU will determine what speed RAM you need, and your board will support that speed. If anything, that statement of "1600 FSB" on the motherboard box is more a statement of how well it might overclock.

Some people bought DDR3 because they thought they would be able to use it in their next upgrade. The next motherboards for intel CPUs will use only
DDR3, so they thought they were being smart (well, they were smart, but just not smart enough) and saving money in the long run. Sadly, it was finally
announced a few weeks ago that the new motherboards will require THREE sticks of matched RAM, and that the RAM will need to be of a lower voltage than
most of the DDR3 so far made.

Standard RAM
Most folks will only need DDR2 800Mhz 1.8V RAM, preferably with timings 5-5-5-15 or lower. This is also enough for moderate overclocks. Buying faster
RAM and running it at faster speeds will not have much of an impact on computer performance.

Overclocking RAM
For those that intend to push their CPUs a bit harder, a bit more is needed for RAM. You want to look for the right combination of voltage and speed.
Most overclockers will not need anything beyond 1066mhz.


Cases
With modern CPUs, chipsets, and video cards getting hotter, adequate cooling becomes more and more important. The biggest factor in a well cooled
computer is not the CPU fan or the video card fan... it's the case itself and the fans moving air through it.

A good computer case is not, actually, one with lots of holes in it. It's a case with carefully placed holes with fans behind each hole, pushing air
into the case or pulling it out. Ideally, air will be pulled into the lower part of the front of the case, and exhausted from the top and rear of the
case. Picture the air moving through the case like a river.

Most builders will want a roomy case, to fit any potential part and to make building easy. Most "mid-tower" and "full tower" cases are roomy enough, but
some can be too limiting.

Power supplies
This is the most overlooked part of a computer build and the most important.
A computer power supply does far more than you think. It has to communicate with your motherboard to coordinate power needs. It has to adjust to varying
power demands, all the while maintaining stable power in exactly the right amount. It has to do this in a range of temperaturers and over a long period
of time.

A cheap power supply can fail spectaculary taking your entire computer with it. Just don't buy ANY PSU without consulting the experts.

Other features to look for in a PSU:
-Efficiency. This one is getting to be important, especially if you have to pay your own power bills. An 80% efficient PSU that needs to supply 400W
will pull 500W at the wall. Also, the more efficient a PSU is, the cooler it runs.
-Cable types and length.
-Heat generated. Tied directly into quality and efficiency though, so it takes care of itself.
-Noise generated.

Generally, you and I can't say what a good power supply is. We do not have the knowledge or equipment to test PSUs properly. Most of the reviews written
are done by people who do not have the knowledge or equipment to do it right. There are a very few places where you can get good reviews of computer
power supplies.

JonnyGuru
HardOCP

If you still want to learn more about PSUs, you should start here.


I will say this about power supplies. If you are like many of us and will keep the same case for a while, don't buy your PSU to last a year. Buy one
that will last 5-6 years, through about 3 builds.

CPU Cooling
Many of us hate the current stock Intel system of push-pins used to attach the CPU fan to the motherboard. The stock fan itself is actually decent, but
the push-pins create uneven pressure or fail completely, often. If the budget is tight and you do not intend to overclock, by all means stay with the
stock CPU fan. Otherwise get a top-rated CPU cooler, and one that does not use the push-pin system at all.

Top CPU heatsinks.

Water Cooling
Your CPU, GPU, and even other parts of your computer can be cooled using a water system similar to what you might find in a car or motorcycle. There are advantages to this. Water cooling is more effective, allowing for better overclocks. It is usually quieter. It looks cool.
It requires a bit more knowledge and aptitude than PC assembly in general, and many simply feel it's too much work. If you are interested in learning more CLICK HERE.

Video Cards
This is covered very well and simply right here at TH, and I have nothing to add to this simple, direct write-up done every month:
TH Guide Oct '08

Sound Cards
With CPUs getting more powerful with more cores, and memory cheaper, the old argument of performance enhancement doesn't make as much sense. At one time using a PCI sound card such as a Soundblaster helped your computer run better while playing those demanding games such as Quake II :p

These days, onboard sound can be found on every motherboard you will buy. It works, and does not noticeably slow your computer. Occasionally it fails to work, just like other parts of your motherboard. Your motherboard will produce surround sound that will probably sound just as good to you as some fancy Audigy sound card.

Some folks have ears and brains wired a bit differently. They notice a difference in movies, games, and music when they use a modern sound card. These same people will have expensive 2.1, 5.1, or even 7.1 speaker systems.


Well, that covers the important parts. Yes, there are more parts to think about, but nothing I needed to write up here. In the second half, we'll cover
the specific recommendations.




+1 ^ guide future build good thread

------------------------------ ▐ ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME II ▐ I7 920 ▐ 3 GIG CORSAIR 1600 ▐ BFG 280 GTX ▐ ANTEC 850 PSU ▐ ANTEC 900 CASE ▐ ACER 22" 2216WB LCD ▐ SAITEK ECLIPSE II ▐ LOGITECH G5 ▐
Reply to major53
- 2 +

Dude, I don't think you needed to quote all that lol!

Reply to fruees
- 0 +

This was very informative. Thanks. I'm one of the people who built a system <2005 and went with AMD for most bang-for-buck value.

Reply to madaxe

This has really given me confidence in my picks for my first build: Antec 900, Antec TPQ-850W, P5Q-E, E8400, G.Skill pi Black PC6400 DDR2, Palit HD4870 1GB Sonic Dual Edition... and of course I picked up a hot 22" HDMI ASUS LCD for cheap (rebate$) on Newegg. God, I love Newegg. Tho I do disagree with you about the WD hdd. Grab the Seagate version. 640GB, 32mb cache (twice the WD) PLUS the AWESOME 5 YEAR WARRANTY on Seagate hdds. WD has only a ONE YEAR WARRANTY.

Reply to freezekill

I forgot -- Thank you for posting your guide!!!

word.

Reply to freezekill

freezekill wrote :

This has really given me confidence in my picks for my first build: Antec 900, Antec TPQ-850W, P5Q-E, E8400, G.Skill pi Black PC6400 DDR2, Palit HD4870 1GB Sonic Dual Edition... and of course I picked up a hot 22" HDMI ASUS LCD for cheap (rebate$) on Newegg. God, I love Newegg. Tho I do disagree with you about the WD hdd. Grab the Seagate version. 640GB, 32mb cache (twice the WD) PLUS the AWESOME 5 YEAR WARRANTY on Seagate hdds. WD has only a ONE YEAR WARRANTY.



Good point. I will add some more HDs to the list. HDs are one of those rare areas where we actually have some statisics to go on, and Western Digital is acknowledged to have the best quality, at least last time I checked. I also have some really good experiences with tech support. Of course, the last time a WD failed on me was 1997.

While the WD 320 and 640 are faster, 16MB or not, I'll add some Seagates as well.

Reply to Proximon

Hmm, maybe someone should just sticky this :P

Reply to Slomo4shO
- 0 +

Yea this really helped me out - Trust me if you don't want noobs like me coming on here asking dumb questions STICKY THIS! :) hehe


Message edited by pwn on 10-31-2008 at 10:48:03 AM
Reply to pwn

I was unaware of the cache unimportance for the 320/640s, thanks. it's just why wouldn't WD supply at least the industry standard three-year warranty for a hdd? ive heard good things about both companies tho.

Reply to freezekill
Previous
1 2 3 4 5
Tom's Guide > Forum > Homebuilt Systems > New System Build > *Guide to Choosing Parts*
Go to:

There are 12 identified and unidentified users. To see the list of identified users, Click here.

Google ads