Good build? Bad build? Please check...
Forum Homebuilt Systems : General Homebuilt - Good build? Bad build? Please check...
Ive decided on the components for my new system, can someone check for me and let me know what you think and if its all compatible?
The budget is £1200 (about $2300). No peripherals needed other than what is already listed
Will be using this computer for gaming and 3d work. I will also be overclocking the system
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Pro [...] tID=430633
GPU: Sapphire X1950XT
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =GX-135-SP
Motherboard: Asus P5B Deluxe
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =MB-150-AS
Case: Antec P180
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/91721
Hard drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Pro [...] tID=397203
External HD: WD Premium myBook 250gb
http://www.komplett.co.uk/k/ki.asp?sku=318873
PSU: Enermax Liberty 500W
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =CA-025-EN
DVDRW: Samsung Lightscribe 18x
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =CD-080-SA
Sound card: Creative X-Fi Extreme Music
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/112512
Headset: Speedlink Medusa 5.1 Home
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/118195
Memory: Corsair 2gb 6400 XMS2
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Pro [...] tID=402849
Heatsink: Tuniq Tower 120
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =HS-000-SB
Fans: Scythe 120mm 1600rpm fan (x2)
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =FG-005-SY
Floppy: Sony Black Floppy drive
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/74629
USB flash drive: Sandisk 1gb
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Pro [...] tID=450642
so what do you think? will it all work ok? Bear in mind that at some point im going to be dropping in an intel quad core and the 8800GTX, so i dont know how that would affect my current component selection
Looks very good, my only concern would be the power supply not being quite powerful enough considering overclocking draws alot more power. Also psu's deteriorate over time so will produce less power in the future and may not be sufficient in a years time.
Why dont you buy the 8800GTX now and save having to get rid of the 1900 later on.
Otherwise some sound choices, those wd external hd's are sweet looking.
what kind of powersupply would i need if i wanted to reach 3.5ghz with that cpu? will the 620W enermax liberty be enough?
the reason for the graphics card....
buying an 8800gtx right now seems like a waste of money. i have no games which require that kind of power, the most graphics intensive game i play right now is ghost recon advanced warfighter which im sure the 1950XT can handle
but i also wanted to wait for more dx10 games to come out so the graphics card can actually be pushed as opposed to sitting there not utilising its full power. plus by that time the r600 will be out then we can have some comparisons and see which dx10 card is actually the best as right now, nvidia have no competition
so what it boils down to, is the fact that i dont really NEED an 8800GTX, at least not until a game like UT2k7 comes out...unless there are some other opinions out there?
Very nice. If I was being really picky (and this is purely personal) I would forget lightscribe (takes aaaaages so you'll probably never use it) and go for a top-of-the-line Plextor.
The ram & mobo are compatible, according to Corsair. It seems that TWIN2X2048-6400 is very compatible.
Yes, I'd get a psu at least 600W+. Enermax would be great.
That PSU only has 32A on 2 12V rails. I recommend the following supply for £15 more. It's got 41A total across 4 rails and has a high efficiency rating...
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/show [...] =CA-003-SS
ah i see
any reason why i need the 41A though? is 32A not enough?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6817151027
The Seasonic would be better, IMO. The more amps on +12v, the more future-proof. The longer the next psu upgrade.
oh, well, i knew amps on the 12v rail was more important than power, but for longevity the wattage isnt as important as the 12v amperage?
lets re-evaluate then
looking at seasonic psu options, we have these:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/prod [...] &subid=589
so a few questions then
1) would a 500W seasonic be enough to power my future system with the upgrades i mentioned?
2) what is the difference, in terms of performance, between the M12, the S12 and the S12 Energy?
so i guess im just wondering why you both chose the 55W S12 energy model, over the other seasonic models which are in the link i posted above? modular cabling was something i was looking forward to, but if the other psus perform better then ill go with them no question, just wondering what makes them better than the M12
i've had a few PSU's the one i have now is by far my FAVOURITE!
PC power&cooling 750 Watt Silencer think its around 200 but its awesome very reliable powers my 8800 680i and C2D at 3.5GHz very nicely
I think 500wt is barely scraping by with what you have, never mind upgrades like a 8800 and a quad core cpu. I'd look more to a 700wt minimun like a Thermaltake 700wt W0106RU or a Seasonic M12 SS-700HM. Enermax also has a couple good psus.
By and large looks OK.
You may want to consider the following changes / suggestions:
1) Case: take a serious look at the Thermaltake Armor Jr case: very flexible, water-cooling ready, BTX conversion kit available, no PS, cheaper than your proposed case (very nice as is, but not BTX ready, and water cooling may be difficult to fit in). Since you say you will be OCing, water cooling compatability and space are issues to consider carefully.
2) Video card: your observations re DX-10 and competition are dead on. You can always upgrade the card later as required, and competition is a good thing for pricing. Mind you, if you are going to do a lot of 3D modelling compared to gaming, you may want to seriously look at one of the workstation cards from either ATI or nVidea. Sadly, these cards may not be good game cards, even though they will generally outperform mainstream cards. Issue is what cards games are optimized for. And how is time between gaming and 3D modelling split?
3) Hard drives: you haven't said why you need the external WD drive. Is it for back-up? If it isn't for back-up, you should scrap it and seriously look at the WD Raptor 150 GB drive for your bootdrive and games, along with apps drive for quick boot and start of programmes. The Seagate 320 GB drive is for your data, I presume. You may want to consider getting 2 or 3 smaller drives and setting them up as a RAID 5 array for data security. Mind you, if you do go this route, a standalone controller is preferred. Some posts in these forums suggest that the onboard raid controllers on the same MoBo, from the same manufacturer, may not be interoperable, leading to inability to read existing arrays on old drives.
4) PSU See other comments in earlier posts. Given your stated requirements, min output I would suggest is 750 W.
5) Optical drive(s): I suggest you take a very close look at the LG line. They have had excellent reviews, and I have never personally experienced any problems with any of the LG drives I have used - CDs, CD-RW, Combo drives, DVDs or DVD burners. Liteon and Lightscribe are useful but the process takes a long time in both cases, is monochrome, and the media is considerabley more expensive. Also, I suggest that you get both a DVD reader and burner, with an audio Y-cable for connecting both to your sound card. This makes copying much easier and doesn't require space on the hard drive. Plextor is seriously overpriced, and offers no performance advantage. Unless you are looking for a SATA capable drive, Plextor is a waste of cash.
6) USB Flash drive: look at the OCZ Rally2 very carefully. I have one of these, very nice, and drivers are availble for legacy OSs like Windows 9x. This can be more important than one would think.
Hope this helps.
I'd go with a better power supply, other than that it looks good to me.
looks like theres a lot of advice to go for a different psu, therefore im going to seriously look into getting a seasonic once i learn about the differences (which i cant seem to find anywhere!)
in regard to wizardOZ's post...
1) i saw the armor jr and it does indeed look like a very nice case. but water cooling isnt something im even considering for this build. im not confident enough to add WC to my system. maybe for my next build yes, but definitely not this one. and ive chosen an ATX motherboard for this, by the time i need to change motherboard again im probably going to end up buying a new case for all the new components anyway
2) ah well ill be gaming more than ill be doing 3d. i currently have an actual quadro in my machine, and the gaming side of things took a really big performance hit and i can barely play games like GRAW with anything more than 5fps!
3) now theres an interesting idea! never thought about getting raptors. yes the external drive is for backup of all my work, downloads, anything else i might want to throw on there incase my HD fails.
about the raptors...they are quite pricey and i dont think i could even afford 1 150gb drive, let alone 1 for boot and 1 for applications. is there a cheaper alternative to this? i really like the sound of speeding things up with a raptor, I just cant think of a cost efficient way of doing it as I have a budget to stick to
4) looking into seasonic psu right now. if anyone can explain to me the difference between their models then greatly appreciated
5) the reason i went with lightscribe isnt because im going to be using it more often, but because those drives are the same price as any other dvd writer so my thinking was, why not?
yeah im probably gunna throw a dvd reader in there at some point, but not right now because i hardly ever record from 1 disc to another, its usually putting things from my HD onto a CD
6) rally2...dual channel memory? thats crazy! crazy enough that i might want to buy it
Before you buy any ram, make 100% sure it's compatible with the mobo.
Differences between M12 & S12: M = Modular, power cables are detachable; M has a 60mm fan in front to cool the hot spot that is the top of the case; S has up to 88% efficiency; the rest seem identical.
The most powerful Seasonic is M12-700 that outputs 700w & has 56A on +12V rails.
http://www.seasonicusa.com/m12.htm
http://www.seasonicusa.com/s12plus.htm
I do believe the ram is compatible, i checked on the corsair website but if im wrong then please do inform me
how powerful of a psu do i need? there have been recommendations (from this thread as well as others) anywhere between 500W and 750W, and thats quite a range. i dont want to overspend when I dont need all the excess power. i think the component that will draw the most will be my future dx10 card
i think even the 500W seasonic has enough amperage on the 12v rails so im ok in that respect, its just the power which im unsure about
Amazing! Neither newegg nor Sapphire lists the PSU requirements. I found something in reviews:
http://www.gamepc.com/labs/view_co [...] pro&page=3
& yes, Ati cards are pretty power hungry. I'd say at least a 600W. That may be a bit pushing it. 700W will be more than plenty.
are ATi cards more power hungery than the 8800 line from nvidia?
| Quote : looks like theres a lot of advice to go for a different psu, therefore im going to seriously look into getting a seasonic once i learn about the differences (which i cant seem to find anywhere!)
|
You haven't said what you are planning to do with your existing system. You may want to consider keeping it and getting a good KVM switch so you can run both systems. Use the older system as a test-bed for playing with Linux for instance. You may need to get some extra speakers for the old system if you do keep it.
Also, it is important to remember that many current MoBos don't include or support Serial or Parallel ports. If you have a parallel port printer, you should look at an adaptor to convert parallel to USB, and any serial devices you have may also be in the same boat. With serial devices, you will need to check with the manufacturer if the device does actully support a serial to USB converter. Some don't.
Hope this reply helps.
the old computer....im selling it on so i wont be keeping it. monitor and all peripherals will be kept though
youre probably right about the external hard drive. i originally wanetd to buy it because its an easier way to back things up than recording onto DVDs and stuff. it was only there for convenience so i dont really need to buy it right now. same with the usb flash drive, its not something that i desperately need (yeah im trying hard to find a way to fit the raptor into my budget!)
the thing i dont understand is why you would partition the drives that way
i thought about it today and figured id do it like this:
take the raptor, divide it into 2 75gb paritions; one for windows and all applications, and the other for my games
then take the seagate drive, partition into 2 for my files (documents, downloads), and for my media (videos, music etc)
that slightly differs from the way you mentioned as i partition the raptor differently
what i dont understand is why you have a partition for windows and utilities, and then a seperate one for applications? why not put them on the same drive?
and ontop of that, i dont get why you have things like firewall, antivirus on the windows partition and not the applications one :?
could you explain please? im sure it is a more effective method, if i understood it
| Quote : the old computer....im selling it on so i wont be keeping it. monitor and all peripherals will be kept though
|
The USB Flash drives are getting unbelievably inexpensive. They are also extremely useful, never mind convenient. You really should consider getting one very seriously.
Hope this helps.
oh ok i get it
but...
1) how do you know what programs fall under the category of "utilities"?
2) what exactly is the point of a reformat? sounds like youre saying you can keep all applications, all files and documents in place, and just wipe the OS and reinstall that. when i always thought a reformat was taking absolutely everything off the drive, then reinstall the OS and apps for a cleaner and more efficient hard drive?
3) is there anything really wrong with installing utilities and apps on the same drive as the OS? i know it maybe be inconvenient to have to reinstall programs when you do a reformat, but is there anything wrong with that method? will it slow down the system at all?
Everything looks good except for the power supply.If you plan on getting an 8800gtx,I would highly recommend a 750watt psu or higher.I currently run a 520watt sli ready psu and i do run two 7800gt's in sli mode.But I still need a more powerful power supply.Keep in mind that just because it says 750watts does not mean it is using 750watts,it just means that the power supply can run at a sustained 750 max output for whatever hours it is rated for.Goodluck.
Dahak
AMD X2-4400+@2.570 S-939
EVGA NF4 SLI MB
2X EVGA 7800GT IN SLI
2X1GIG DDR IN DC MODE
WD300GIG HD
EXTREME 19IN.MONITOR 1280X1024
ACE 520WATT PSU
COOLERMASTER MINI R120
WizardOZ, the mods are missing out this opportunity to sticky your posts in the storage forum. Coming from a Linux background, I know what you are talking about. i.e. /home = my doc, can be on another partition/drive. You should really write an article for this site or other about data management.
It's sad that there are multiple competing data backup tools, but not one preference backup tool that can schedule auto backing up of every app's & game's preferences. I know you could do it manually in some apps like MSBACKUP. I guess people enjoy re-entering hundreds of firewall rules.
| Quote : are ATi cards more power hungery than the 8800 line from nvidia? |
I don't know about the upcoming Ati R600, which better kicks 8800's rear. The 8800 uses more power than the X1950. The 8800 GTX needs TWO PCI-E power cables.
http://www.hwupgrade.com/articles/ [...] sli_5.html
| Quote : oh ok i get it
|
I hope that things are clear now.
As an additional thought about how you could set up your system, regardless of what you end up using as a primary boot drive, you should seriously consider doing the following:
Create a second primary partition on the boot drive of about 20GB in size. Sacrifice some of the space you would use for the games and apps partitons to make this partition.
Install a Linux distribution in the second primary partition and set up your system to enable dual-booting into either Windows or Linux.
You will also need to create a small data exchange partition on your data drive, say 5 GB, formatted as FAT32. Linux can read NTFS partitions, but can't write to them, so you will need a tranfer point for data you create in your Linux apps if you want to do anything with them using Windows apps and vice versa. You may also want to create a data partition of about 10 to 20 GB in native Linux file system format.
The Linux distribution you want to use is SuSe, especially since they have made a deal with Microsoft and are now able to offer improved support for MS format files.
I appreciate that this is getting a little more complex than you either expected or may feel comfy with. Bear with me, and consider this very carefully. There are many advantages to having the capability of dual booting into either Windows or Linux. Do a little digging. If you do this, you will have an opportunity to learn a new OS, which is the one that actually runs about 80% of the web - Apache server is a Linux app, and is the server that runs most of the systems that are the web. More critically, Linux is more secure than Windows, and even if the Windows side gets compromised, you will still have a functioning system. Even better, it may be possible to use the Linux side to fix parts of the Windows side enough to be able to restore it without having to wipe and re-install. BONUS!!
Oh yeah, here is another reason to get Partition Magic - it can convert partitions from one file system to another without data loss in real time. Including assorted Linux file systems. This is an extremely useful and powerful package.
Some of your questions and points lead me to direct your attention to the last line in my signature. I very strongly recommend that you look it up and read "The Moon Is Harsh Mistress" where the expression first appeared.
Once again, I hope this is of use and helpful.
| Quote : WizardOZ, the mods are missing out this opportunity to sticky your posts in the storage forum. Coming from a Linux background, I know what you are talking about. i.e. /home = my doc, can be on another partition/drive. You should really write an article for this site or other about data management.
|
Thank you very much indeed. I also have a nodding acquaintance with Linux. See also my most recent reply to OP. You may wish to contribute to the discussion.
As for your observation re the MODS here and making my posts "sticky", I will make the following observations:
1) this will never, ever happen (see below for reasons).
The mods and administrators here are useless, last-rate-punk REMF drones, more interested in abusing their power than actually doing their job. I speak from direct skin of my back experience.
Here is a direct quote from the "main" hardware mod:
"I don't quite know who you think you are....... Your not a Mod....... You stepped in over your head & got stomped on....... Its the nature of the forums....
I suggest before sending 6 Abuse Reports & harassing the thread saying "you've been turned into a Mod.", you leave the thread!!!!! Otherwise I'll ban you for wasting my time......
RCPilot"
This after I reported a series of posts that were in gross violation of the terms of service and etiquette as specified in the user agreement. Abusive, threatening and extremely foul language. My response, in agreement with what RCPilot explicitely said was acceptable was a 24 hr Ban. When I replied in detail, in a civilized manner, buddy responded with a 80 hour ban. So much for for the mods here. Abuse of power and authority in action is a wonderful thing to watch. REMFs like this one were fragged, once upon a time.
I have followed enough threads and discussions here to be able to state unequivacally that the moderators and adminstrators here are useless and wouldn't last a day in the real world. Given the extent of non-conformance to service and etiquette agreements, and the extreme crap that routinely makes it onto the threads here, the administrators and mods are definitely not doing their job. If I had anything to say about it , these last-raters woud not only be fired, they would be paying a very, very serious fine.
WizardOZ,
Great post, man. Thank you for taking the time to write all that. Very helpful, indeed.
R
WizardOZ,
Great posts, man. Thank you for taking the time to write all that. Very helpful, indeed.
R
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